Over the main entrance the gable is extended to enclose a majestic

triple vestibule, backed by the same effect that appears at the palace

ends, but with the entablature and its supporting columns repeated

across the outer arches. (p. 111.) With the exception of the spandrels

on the transverse arches, the sculptural decoration here is the same as

that described for the end entrances, though more often repeated. The

spandrels represent the application of power to machines. All this

decoration is the work of Haig Patigian, of San Francisco.

Before the main entrance stands the only example, in the Exposition

sculpture, of the work of the dean of American sculptors, Daniel Chester

French. This is his noteworthy group, the Genius of Creation. (p. 147.)

Other statues by French will be found among the exhibits of the Fine

Arts Palace. The Genius of Creation was placed here at the last moment.

It had been intended for the Court of the Universe, while Douglas

Tilden's group of "Modern Civilization" was to have stood before the

Palace of Machinery. When this was not completed, the Exposition wisely

decided that the great court already had enough statuary, and ordered

French's group erected in its place.

According to French himself, this group might well have been called "The

Angel of Generation." The winged figure, neither male nor female, but

angelic, is veiled, suggesting the creative impulse as a blind command

from unknown sources. The arms are raised in a gesture of creative

command. It has wings, said French, because. both art and the conception

demanded these spiritual symbols. The man and woman against the rock

whereon the angel sits are emblems of the highest types created. The man

looks upward and outward with one hand clenched, ready to grapple with

life. The woman reaches out for sympathy and support; her fingers find

this in the hand of the man at the back of the rock. Man and woman are

encircled by the snake, the earliest symbol of eternity and

reproduction, a figure appearing, curiously enough, in every religion,

and with much the same significance.

Without ignoring the majesty of the exterior, glowing with color and

adorned with statuary, it may be said that the real nobility of this

great structure appears in the splendid timber work of the interior.

Here, where every bone and rib of the huge hall stands bare as the

builders left it, is a note of true grandeur. The long rows of great

timbered columns, the lofty arches that spring from them, the almost

endless vista of truss and girder, tell of vastness that cannot be

expressed by the finished architecture outside. The finest character of

the palace is within. From the outside it is a great and

well-proportioned hall. Within it becomes a vast cathedral, dedicated to

the mighty spirit of Dynamics.

XII.

The Palace of Fine Arts and its Exhibit, With the Awards

A memorable demonstration of the value of landscape to architecture--

Simplicity the foundation of Maybeck's achievement--The Colonnade and

Rotunda--Altar, Friezes and Murals--Equestrian statue of Lafayette--

Night views--The Palace should be made permanent in Golden Gate Park--

The Fine Arts Exhibit--Its contemporaneous character and great general

merit--American art well shown--The foreign collections--Sweden's

characteristically national art--Exhibits of France, Italy, Holland,

Argentina, and other countries--Japan and China exhibit ancient as well

as modern art--The Annex--Work of the Futurists--Notable sculptures

in the Colonnade--Grand Prizes, Medals of Honor and Gold Medals

Awarded.

If everything else in the beautiful architecture of the Exposition were

forgotten, the memory of the Palace of Fine Arts would remain. It should

be a source of pride to every Californian that this incomparable

building is the work of a Californian, and a source of deep satisfaction

to the architect himself that it so completely points the lesson which

he intended it to convey. For the Palace of Fine Arts is a sermon in

itself. In it old Roman models have been used to elaborate a California

text. Its structure and setting are the demonstration of a theorem,--

the finished word of the preachment of a lifetime. The Exposition gave

the preacher his opportunity. Bernard Maybeck, the Berkeley architect,

had long been telling California that architecture here, to be

beautiful, needed only to be an effective background for landscape. His

theory is that as trees and plants grow so easily and so quickly here,

Californians are wasting their finest source of beauty if they do not

combine landscape with building.

When Maybeck was called upon to design a palace of fine arts at the

Exposition, one fact enabled him to exemplify his theory in the finest

way. The old Harbor View bog was found to have a bottom impervious

enough to hold water, and the trees of the demolished resort were still

standing. When the mud was scooped out, a lake was left. That gave not

only growing trees, in addition to the resources of the Exposition's

forestry, but also a real sheet of water, for the landscape. (See p.

112.)

Maybeck surprised me by saying that there is nothing specially

remarkable about the Palace itself. "What is it the people like?" he

asked, and himself replied, "it is the water and the trees." When I

reminded him of the beauty of the colonnade seen from points in the

enclosed passageway, where no water is in view, he answered: "The public

was bribed to like that. Leaving off the roof between the colonnade and

the gallery was a direct bribe. A few other simple devices give the

effect the people like. One of these is the absence of windows in the

walls, a device well known to the old Italians. Others are the water,

the trees, and the flower-covered pergolas on the roof."

Maybeck's modesty is genuine, but he deserves more credit than he gives

himself. I quote him because his point is worth emphasizing. The highest

beauty can be attained by simple means. If all our architects could see

that, we should have less straining for effect, less over doneness, and

more harmony and significance in our buildings. The people can and do

appreciate this kind of beauty. It was surely inspiration that made it

possible for Maybeck to produce this masterpiece.

Sweeping in a great arc around the western shore of the lagoon, the

Palace, in the architect's view, is merely a background for the water,

the trees and the plants on the terraced walls and pergolas. Certainly

it is a beautiful setting to a beautiful scene. So perfectly are the

Palace and its foreground fitted to each other that the structure looks

as though it might have stood there for twenty centuries, a

well-preserved Roman villa, while generations of trees grew, and

decayed, and were reproduced around its base.

The great detached colonnade, with its central rotunda, is the climax of

the entire structure. It is backed up and given solidity by the walls of

the gallery behind it, 1,100 feet long. These walls, unbroken save for

the entrances, are relieved and beautified by shrubbery set on a terrace

halfway between the ground and the eaves. (p. 113.) At the extremities

of the double colonnade, and spaced regularly along it, are groups of

four columns, each crowned with a great box designed for flowers and

vines. Unfortunately, the architect's plan to place growing plants in

these receptacles was vetoed because of the cost. The weeping women at

the corners, by Ulric Ellerhusen, expressive of the melancholy felt on

leaving a great art collection, were intended to be only half seen

through drooping vines. On the water side of the rotunda, a novel effect

of inclusion is obtained by semi-circular walls of growing

mesembryanthemum.

Around the entablature of the noble octagonal rotunda are repeated Bruno

Louis Zimm's three panels, representing "The Struggle for the

Beautiful." (p. 114.) In one, Art, as a beautiful woman, stands in the

center, while on either side the idealists struggle to hold back the

materialists, here conceived as centaurs, who would trample upon Art. In

another, Bellerophon is about to mount Pegasus. Orpheus walks ahead with

his lyre, followed by a lion, representing the brutish beasts over whom

music hath power. Back in the procession come Genius, holding aloft the

lamp, and another figure bearing in one hand the pine cones of

immortality, in the other a carved statue which she holds forward as a

lesson in art to the youth before her. In the third panel appears

Apollo, god of all the arts, in the midst of a procession of his

devotees bearing garlands. Between the panels are repeated alternately

male and female figures, symbolizing those who battle for the arts.

On an altar before the rotunda, overlooking the lagoon, kneels Robert

Stackpole's figure of Venus, representing the Beautiful, to whom all art

is servant. The panel in front of the altar is by Bruno Louis Zimm, and

pictures Genius, the source of Inspiration. Unfortunately, this fine

altar has been made inaccessible; it can be seen only from across the

lagoon. (p. 137.) The friezes decorating the huge circular flower

receptacles set around the base of the rotunda and at intervals in the

colonnade are by Ellerhusen. Eight times repeated on the lofty columns

within the rotunda is "The Priestess of Culture," a conventional but

pleasing sculpture by Herbert Adams.

Above, in the dome, Robert Reid's eight murals, splendid in color, are

too far away to be seen well as pictures. Two separate series are

alternated, one symbolizing the Progress of Art, the other depicting the

Four Golds of California. The panel in the east, nearest the altar, is

"The Birth of European Art." The sacred fire burns on an altar, beside

which stands the guardian holding out the torch of inspiration to an

earthly messenger who leans from his chariot to receive it. On the right

is the Orange panel, representing one of the California golds.

"Inspiration in All Art" comes next. The veil of darkness, drawn back,

reveals the arts: Music, Painting, Poetry, and Sculpture. A winged

figure bears the torch of inspiration. The second of the California

golds, the Wheat panel, follows, and then "The Birth of Oriental Art."

The allegory here is the ancient Ming legend of the forces of earth

trying to wrest inspiration from the powers of air. A Chinese warrior

mounted on a dragon struggles with an eagle.

Gold, the yellow metal, is the subject of the next panel, followed by

"Ideals in Art." In this appear concrete symbols of the chief motives of

art, the classic nude of the Greeks, the Madonna and Child of Religion,

Joan of Arc for Heroism, Youth and Material Beauty represented by a

young woman, and Absolute Nature by the peacock. A mystic figure in the

background holds the cruse wherewith to feed the sacred flame. A winged

figure bears laurels for the living, while the shadowy one in the center

holds the palm for the dead. Last of all comes the Poppy panel,

representing the fourth gold of California.

"The entire scheme--the conception and birth of Art, its commitment to

the earth, its progress and acceptance by the human intellect,--is

expressed in the four major panels. They are lighted from below by a

brilliant flood of golden light, the sunshine of California, and reach

up into the intense blue of the California skies." This, as well as much

of the interpretation of the eight pictures, is drawn from Reid's own

account.

Within the rotunda has been installed Paul Wayland Bartlett's spirited

equestrian statue of Lafayette. This is a replica of the original work,

which was presented to the French Government by the school children of

the United States, and stands in the gardens of the Louvre. Other

notable statues here are Karl Bitter's Thomas Jefferson, John J. Boyle's

Commodore Barry, Herbert Adams's Bryant, and Robert T. McKenzie's

charming figure of "The Young Franklin." Outside the rotunda, facing the

main entrance to the gallery, is "The Pioneer Mother," Charles Grafly,

sculptor. Over the entrance is Leo Lentelli's "Aspiration."

Beautiful as is the Palace of Fine Arts by day, it is even more lovely

at night. (p. 137.) Either by moonlight or under the gentle flood of

illumination that rests softly upon it when the heavens are dark, it is

wonderful. There is so much of perfection in the building, and it is so

well placed, that it needs no special conditions to be at its best. Nor

is any particular viewpoint necessary. Stand where you will around this

structure, or on the opposite margin of the lagoon, and each position

gives you a different grouping of columns and dome and wall, a different

setting of trees and water. The form of the Palace is responsible for

this. Roughly speaking, a rectangular structure presents but four views.

But the great arc of the Fine Arts, with its detached colonnade

following the same curve on either side of the rotunda, is not so

restricted. Every new point of view discloses new beauty. The breadth of

the lagoon before it guarantees a proper perspective. It is impossible

not to see it aright.

An excellent test of the quality of all such temporary structures is the

satisfaction with which one thinks of them as permanent buildings. No

other of the palaces would wear so well in its beauty if it were set up

for the joy of future generations. It would be a glorious thing for San

Francisco if the Fine Arts Palace could be made permanent in Golden Gate

Park. To duplicate it in lasting materials would cost much, but it would

be worth while. San Francisco owes it to itself and its love for art to

see that this greatest of Western works of art does not pass away. As it

stands on the Exposition grounds, it is more enduring than any of the

other palaces. To induce the loan of its priceless contents, the

building had to be fireproof. But the construction is not permanent. The

splendid colonnade, a thing of exquisite and manifold beauty, is only

plaster, and can last but a season or two. Even were the building solid

enough to endure, its location is impossible after the Exposition

closes.

It should be duplicated in permanent form. No doubt a proper site, with

a setting of water and trees, can best be found in Golden Gate Park. The

steel frame and roof of the main gallery could easily be transferred

there and set up again. While it would cost too much to duplicate in

real marble the pillars of the colonnade and dome, yet these can be

reproduced in artificial stone as successfully as they have here been

imitated in plaster. In the Pennsylvania Railroad station in New York

travertine has been counterfeited so well that no one can tell where the

real ends and the imitation begins.

Every other considerable city in the civilized world has its art

gallery. San Francisco has already the full-sized model of surely the

most beautiful one in the world. Made permanent in the Park, this Palace

of Art would not only honor San Francisco, but would be "a joy forever"

to all America.

The Fine Arts Exhibit[1].--The Palace of Fine Arts contains what the

International Jury declares the best and most important collection of

modern art that has yet been assembled in America. The war in Europe had

a two-fold effect on this exhibition. While it prevented some countries,

like Russia and Germany, from sending their paintings and sculptures, it

led others, such as France and Italy, to send more than they otherwise

would have sent. The number the Exposition might have was limited only

by its funds available for insurance. So many were the works of art sent

over on the Vega and the Jason that an Annex was required to house them.

It must be remembered that this art exhibit, like the other exhibits of

the Exposition, is contemporaneous. It represents, with exceptions, the

work of the last decade. Most of the exceptions are in the rooms of the

Historical Section, the Abbey, Sargent, Whistler, Keith, and other loan

collections, and the great Chinese exhibit of ancient paintings on silk.

In general, the paintings and sculptures made famous by time are not in

the Fine Arts Palace. Its rooms are mainly filled with the latest work

of artists of the day, exhibited under the Exposition's rule which

limits competition in all departments to current production. This

explains, for instance, why the French Government has placed its

Meissoniers and Detailles, with Rodin's bronzes, in the French Pavilion.

A Michelangelo, works of Benvenuto Cellini, and many old paintings and

statues are in the beautiful Italian Pavilion. Other paintings of value

are in the Belgian section of the French Pavilion, and in the Danish

Pavilion.

This limitation of the Fine Arts exhibit has made room for a great

representation of the men of today. The Palace contains a multitude of

splendid pictures. While of course, as in all such collections, there is

some inferior work, the most pertinent criticism is that there are too

many really notable things, and the scope of the collection is too

broad, to be seen with due appreciation in a limited time. There is so

liberal a showing of different schools, styles and lands, that one is

liable at first to be bewildered. But the exhibit is most popular. The

great number of visitors constantly thronging the galleries is

significant of the value the people put upon art. Excellent as the

collection is as a school for artists, it was made for popular enjoyment

and education. The best result to be looked for is its stimulation and

culture of the public taste. The people are already in love with it, and

what they love they make their own.

The exhibits are arranged in fifteen sections, consisting of national,

sectional, or personal, collections of paintings, besides many important

displays of miniatures, etchings, prints, drawings, and tapestries. The

art of the sculptor is abundantly illustrated in grouped statuary,

single pieces, panels in low or high relief, and wood carvings. Passing

the heroic emblems of history or allegory in marble, bronze or plaster,

nothing is more beautiful or appealing than the hundreds of small

bronzes shown. In brief, the Fine Arts exhibit embraces all the

classifications of modern art, save the "arts and crafts" exhibits,

which are scattered among the several exhibit palaces.

First in importance to a citizen of this country is the art of the

United States. Possibly it may also be of first importance to foreign

visitors. For the phrase "American art" no longer raises a doubt. It is

at last recognized that America has something of its own to offer the

world,--a style developed within the last, two decades. The prime

movement of the times presenting boldness, brilliance and a laxity of

detail in portrayal, the art of America, as shown in this exhibition,

embodies these characteristics without emphasizing them. Keeping in mind

the fact that the Palace contains little American art earlier than 1905,

American artists are showing marked individualities, even in their

acceptance of popular precepts. The virile men of the day love

luminosity; it dominates all else, and marks their canvases with light;

they restrain the too bold stroke of the radical Impressionist, but

outline with firmness, so that details are more easily imagined by the

observer, even when an expected delineation is absent. Even the older

men, though still under the influence of earlier tradition, show a

distinctiveness of style that sets them well apart from their English,

French or German contemporaries.

The International Section, in Room 108 and in the Annex, is peculiarly

interesting in that it makes easy a comparison of the characteristic

fingerprints of each country represented. There is ample opportunity

here for a discriminating and profitable study. Unfortunately, because

of the war, the gallery contains no special rooms for the art of England

and Germany. Both countries are represented only by loan collections. Of

German art there are forty well chosen paintings.

France, Italy, Holland, Sweden, Portugal, Japan, China and several of

the South American countries have installed representative collections

in the Palace; while the Annex, made necessary by the unexpected number

of pictures from Europe, contains a large exhibit of Hungarian art, a

Norwegian display, filling seven rooms, a large British exhibit, and a

small group of pictures by Spanish painters, showing that the influence

of Velasquez is still powerful in Spanish art. The Norwegian display is

one of the largest foreign sections, quite as characteristic as the

Swedish, and certain to arouse discussion because of its extreme

modernism. The ultra-radical art of Edvard Munch, who is called the

greatest of Norwegian painters, and to whom a special room is assigned,

is sure to be a bone of contention among the critics. The work of Harald

Sohlberg (medal of honor) and Halfdan Strom (gold medal), differing

widely from Munch's, though hardly less modern in style, will also

attract much attention. The omission of Munch from the honor list is

really a tribute to his eminence. An artist who has won the Grand Prix

at Rome and awards in every other European capital was deemed outside of

competition here.

Axel Gallen-Kallela, the celebrated Finnish painter, winner of the

Exposition's medal of honor, fills another room in the Annex. This room,

covering adequately Gallen's progress through twenty-five years, is the

only one in the Exposition to illustrate the development of a great

painter from his student days. The collection runs from his earliest

academic work, photographic in its care for detail, to his present

mastery of Impressionism, wherein by a few strokes he expresses all the

essentials.

The Italian Futurists are well shown in the Annex, and for the first

time in this country. The Futurist pictures hitherto seen in America

have been French imitations of the Italian originators of the mode. A

sample Futurist title, "Architectural Construction of a Woman on the

Beach," may or may not indicate what these pictures reveal. The Annex,

too, has a splendid exhibit of the etchings of Frank Brangwyn, the great

Englishman, who is no less renowned as an etcher than as a painter, and

who has won the Exposition's medal of honor in the International

Section.

The arrangement of the rooms in the Fine Arts Gallery becomes simple

enough when the key is supplied. The United States section is in the

center, and, with the historical rooms, occupies, roughly, half the

space, flanked by the foreign rooms at either end of the building. Four

rooms of the United States section are separated from the rest and form

a narrow strip across the extreme north end of the gallery. The prints,

drawings, miniatures, and medals are installed in rooms forming a strip

along the west wall of the building.

The United States section is opened by a central hall opposite the main

entrance, and by a corridor extending on either side through to the

foreign sections. The central hall is chiefly devoted to sculpture,

including Karl Bitter's strong and characteristic group, "The Signing of

the Louisiana Purchase Treaty," Daniel Chester French's "Alice Freeman

Palmer Memorial," both winners of the medal of honor, Gertrude

Vanderbilt Whitney's fine central fountain, and other important work.

The walls are hung with ancient tapestries of great interest, and

paintings, mostly decorative, though Robert Vonnoh's "Poppies" and Ben

Au Haggin's "Little White Dancer" are admirable. Vonnoh won a gold

medal.

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