having more than $20,000 in good hard cash, yet the squalor in which they
live would indicate the direst poverty.
The stroll to Indian river, from which the town gets its water supply, is
bewitching. The walk is made about six feet through an evergreen forest,
the trees arching overhead, for a distance of two miles, and is close to
the bay, and following the curve in a most picturesque circle. The water
is carried in buckets loaded on carts and wheeled by hand, for horses are
almost unknown in Alaska. There are probably not more than half a dozen
horses and mules in all Alaska--not so much because of the expense of
transportation and board, as lack of roads and the long, dark days and
months of winter, when people do not go out but very little. All the
packing is done in all sections of Alaska by natives carrying the packs
and supplies on their backs.
Sitka's most interesting object is the old Greek church, located in the
middle of the town, and also in the middle of the street. Its form is
that of a Greek cross, with a copper-covered dome, surmounted by a
chime-bell tower. The inside glitters with gold and rare paintings, gold
embroidered altar cloths and robes; quaint candelabra of solid silver are
suspended in many nooks, and an air of sacred quiet pervades the whole
building. There were no seats, for the Russians remain standing during
the worship. Service is held every Sabbath by a Russian priest in his
native language, and the church is still supported by the Russian
Government. Indeed, Russia does more for the advancement of religion than
does our own Government for Alaska.
The walk through the Indian ranch was but a repetition of the other
towns, only that they were wealthier and uglier, if possible, than the
other tribes. The Hydahs are very powerfully built, tall, large boned,
and stout.
Two days were spent in visiting and trafficking with these people. Then
the anchor came up, and soon a silver trail like a huge sea serpent moved
among the green isles, and followed us once more--now on the homeward
sail.