To be sure, some of them are in a measure Christianized, but the odors
arising from the homes of the best of them are such as a civilized nose
never scented before. Rancid grease, dried fish, pelts, decaying animals,
and human filth made the strongest perfume known to the commercial or
social world.
[Illustration: GRANVILLE CHANNEL, ALASKA. Reached via the Union Pacific
Ry.]
The squaws, if they were in mourning or in love, would have their faces
painted black with oil and tar. Then again, a great many wear a wooden or
ivory pin thrust through the lip just below the fleshy part. It is worn
for ornament, the same as ear-rings or nose-rings, and is called a
labret. The missionary work done among them is a commendable one, but it
seems a hopeless task. Their houses are always built with one object in
view, to be able to tie the canoe to the front door. A long row of huts
just above high-tide line can always be safely called a rancherie in that
country. Their food is brought by the tide to their very doors, and the
timbered mountains abound in wild game, and offer ample fuel for the
cutting.
Chilcot, or Pyramid Harbor, is about twelve hours run from Juneau, and it
is here the famous Chilcot blanket is made from the goat's wool, woven by
hand, and dyed by native dyes, and worked from grotesque patterns. Here,
also, are two of the largest salmon canneries in Alaska, and here,
indeed, were we in the