_Second Tour_.--While the Upper Columbia abounds in scenery of wild and
picturesque beauty, the tourist must by no means neglect a trip down
the lower river from Portland to Astoria and Ilwaco, and return. The
facilities now offered by the Union Pacific in its splendid fleet of
steamers render this a delightful excursion. On a clear day, one may
enjoy at the junction of the Willamette with the Columbia a very
wonderful sight--five mountain peaks are on view: St. Helens, Mt.
Jefferson, Mt. Adams, Mt. Hood, and Mt. Rainier. St. Helens, queen of
the Cascade Range, a fair and graceful cone. Exquisite mantling snows
sweep along her shoulders toward the bristling pines. Not far from her
base, the Columbia crashes through the mountains in a magnificent
chasm, and Mt. Hood, the vigorous prince of the range, rises in a keen
pyramid some 12,000 feet. Small villages and landing-places line the
shores, almost too numerous to mention. There are, of the more
important, St. Johns, St. Helens, Columbia City, Kalama, Rainier,
Westport, Cathlamet, Knappa, and Astoria at the mouth, a busy place of
6,000 people. Salmon canneries there are without number. It is about 98
miles by the chart from Portland to Astoria. Across the bay is the
pretty town of Ilwaco. Ft. Canby and Cape Disappointment look across to
Ft. Stevens and Point Adams. From Astoria, one may drive eighteen miles
to Clatsop Beach, famous for its clams, crab, and trout, and Ben
Holliday's hotel. But the fullest enjoyment is obtained by making a
round trip, including a lay-over at Ilwaco all night, and returning to
Portland next day, and sleeping on board the boat. A railway runs from
the town to the outside beach, a mile and a half distant. There is a
drive twenty-five miles long up this long beach to Shoal Water Bay,
which is beautiful beyond description. This district is the great
supply point for oysters, heavy shipments being made as far south as
San Francisco. Sea bathing, both here and at Clatsop Beach, is very
fine.
The boats of the Union Pacific Ry. on the Columbia leave nothing to be
desired. The "T.J. Potter," a magnificent side-wheel steamer, made her
first trip in July, 1888. She is 235 feet long, 35 feet beam, and 10
feet hold, with a capacity of 600 passengers. The saloon and
state-rooms are fitted with every convenience, and handsomely
decorated. The "Potter" was built entirely in Portland, and the
citizens naturally take great pride in the superb vessel. In August,
1888, this steamer made the run from her berth at Portland to the
landing stage at Astoria in five hours and thirty-one minutes. Then
there are two night passenger boats from Portland down, the "R.R.
Thompson" and the "S.G. Reed," both stern-wheelers of large size,
spacious, roomy boats, well appointed in every particular. The Thompson
is 215 feet long, 38 feet beam, and 1,158 tons measurement. In addition
to these, there are two day mail passenger and freight boats; they
handle the way traffic; the larger boats above mentioned make the run
direct from Portland to Astoria without any landings.