CHAPTER X.

INDUSTRY IN IRELAND: THROUGH CONNAUGHT AND ULSTER, TO BELFAST.

"The Irish people have a past to boast of, and a future to create."--J.

F. O'Carrol.

"One of the great questions is how to find an outlet for Irish

manufactures. We ought to be an exporting nation, or we never will be

able to compete successfully with our trade rivals."--E. D. Gray.

"Ireland may become a Nation again, if we all sacrifice our parricidal

passions, prejudices, and resentments on the altar of our country.

Then shall your manufactures flourish, and Ireland be free."--Daniel

O'Connell.

Further communications passed between my young friend, the Italian

count, and his father; and the result was that he accompanied me to

Ireland, on the express understanding that he was to send home a letter

daily by post assuring his friends of his safety. We went together

accordingly to Galway, up Lough Corrib to Cong and Lough Mask; by the

romantic lakes and mountains of Connemara to Clifden and Letterfrack,

and through the lovely pass of Kylemoor to Leenane; along the fiord of

Killury; then on, by Westport and Ballina to Sligo. Letters were

posted daily by my young friend; and every day we went forwards in

safety.

But how lonely was the country! We did not meet a single American

tourist during the whole course of our visit, and the Americans are the

most travelling people in the world. Although the railway companies

have given every facility for visiting Connemara and the scenery of the

West of Ireland, we only met one single English tourist, accompanied by

his daughter. The Bianconi long car between Clifden and Westport had

been taken off for want of support. The only persons who seemed to

have no fear of Irish agrarianism were the English anglers, who are

ready to brave all dangers, imaginary or supposed, provided they can

only kill a big salmon! And all the rivers flowing westward into the

Atlantic are full of fine fish. While at Galway, we looked down into

the river Corrib from the Upper Bridge, and beheld it literally black

with the backs of salmon! They were waiting for a flood to enable them

to ascend the ladder into Lough Corrib. While there, 1900 salmon were

taken in one day by nets in the bay.

Galway is a declining town. It has docks, but no shipping; bonded

warehouses, but no commerce. It has a community of fishermen at

Claddagh, but the fisheries of the bay are neglected. As one of the

poor men of the place exclaimed, "Poverty is the curse of Ireland." On

looking at Galway from the Claddagh side, it seems as if to have

suffered from a bombardment. Where a roof has fallen in, nothing has

been done to repair it. It was of no use. The ruin has been left to

go on. The mills, which used to grind home-grown corn, are now

unemployed. The corn comes ready ground from America. Nothing is

thought of but emigration, and the best people are going, leaving the

old, the weak, and the inefficient at home. "The labourer," said the

late President Garfield, "has but one commodity to sell--his day's

work, it is his sole reliance. He must sell it to-day, or it is lost

for-ever." And as the poor Irishman cannot sell his day's labour, he

must needs emigrate to some other country, where his only commodity may

be in demand.

While at Galway, I read with interest an eloquent speech delivered by

Mr. Parnell at the banquet held in the Great Hall of the Exhibition at

Cork. Mr. Parnell asked, with much reason, why manufactures should not

be established and encouraged in the South of Ireland, as in other

parts of the country. Why should not capital be invested, and

factories and workshops developed, through the length and breadth of

the kingdom? "I confess," he said, "I should like to give Ireland a

fair opportunity of working her home manufactures. We can each one of

us do much to revive the ancient name of our nation in those industrial

pursuits which have done so much to increase and render glorious those

greater nations by the side of which we live. I trust that before many

years are over we shall have the honour and pleasure of meeting in even

a more splendid palace than this, and of seeing in the interval that

the quick-witted genius of the Irish race has profited by the lessons

which this beautiful Exhibition must undoubtedly teach, and that much

will have been done to make our nation happy, prosperous, and free."

Mr. Parnell, in the course of his speech, referred to the manufactures

which had at one time flourished in Ireland--to the flannels of

Rathdrum, the linens of Bandon, the cottons of Cork, and the gloves of

Limerick. Why should not these things exist again? "We have a people

who are by nature quick and facile to learn, who have shown in many

other countries that they are industrious and laborious, and who have

not been excelled--whether in the pursuits of agriculture under a

midday sun in the field, or amongst the vast looms in the factory

districts--by the people of any country on the face of the globe."[1]

Most just and eloquent!

The only weak point in Mr. Parnell's speech was where he urged his

audience "not to use any article of the manufacture of any other

country except Ireland, where you can get up an Irish manufacture."

The true remedy is to make Irish articles of the best and cheapest, and

they will be bought, not only by the Irish, but by the English and

people of all nations. Manufactures cannot be "boycotted." They will

find their way into all lands, in spite even of the most restrictive

tariffs. Take, for instance, the case of Belfast hereafter to be

referred to. If the manufacturing population of that town were to rely

for their maintenance on the demand for their productions at home, they

would simply starve. But they make the best and the cheapest goods of

their kind, and hence the demand for them is world-wide.

There is an abundant scope for the employment of capital and skilled

labour in Ireland. During the last few years land has been falling

rapidly out of cultivation. The area under cereal crops has

accordingly considerably decreased.[2] Since 1868, not less than

400,000 acres have been disused for this purpose.[3] Wheat can be

bought better and cheaper in America, and imported into Ireland ground

into flour. The consequence is, that the men who worked the soil, as

well as the men who ground the corn, are thrown out of employment, and

there is nothing left for them but subsistence upon the poor-rates,

emigration to other countries, or employment in some new domestic

industry.

Ireland is by no means the "poor Ireland" that she is commonly supposed

to be. The last returns of the Postmaster-General show that she is

growing in wealth. Irish thrift has been steadily at work during the

last twenty years. Since the establishment of the Post Office Savings

Banks, in 1861, the deposits have annually increased in value. At the

end of 1882, more than two millions sterling had been deposited in

these banks, and every county participated in the increase.[4] The

largest accumulations were in the counties of Dublin, Antrim, Cork,

Down, Tipperary, and Tyrone, in the order named. Besides this amount,

the sum of 2,082,413L. was due to depositors in the ordinary Savings

Banks on the 20th of November, 1882; or, in all, more than four

millions sterling, the deposits of small capitalists. At Cork, at the

end of last year, it was found that the total deposits made in the

savings bank had been 76,000L, or an increase of 6,675L. over the

preceding twelve months. But this is not all. The Irish middle

classes are accustomed to deposit most of their savings in the Joint

Stock banks; and from the returns presented to the Lord Lieutenant,

dated the 31st of January, 1883, we find that these had been more than

doubled in twenty years, the deposits and cash balances having

increased from 14,389,000L. at the end of 1862, to 32,746,000L. at the

end of 1882. During the last year they had increased by the sum of

2,585,000L. "So large an increase in bank deposits and cash balances,"

says the Report, "is highly satisfactory." It may be added that the

investments in Government and India Stock, on which dividends were paid

at the Bank of Ireland, at the end of 1882, amounted to not less than

31,804,000L.

It is proper that Ireland should be bountiful with her increasing

means. It has been stated that during the last eighteen years her

people have contributed not less than six millions sterling for the

purpose of building places of worship, convents, schools, and colleges,

in connection with the Roman Catholic Church, not to speak of their

contributions for other patriotic objects.

It would be equally proper if some of the saved surplus capital of

Ireland, as suggested by Mr. Parnell, were invested in the

establishment of Irish manufactures. This would not only give

profitable occupation to the unemployed, but enable Ireland to become

an increasingly exporting nation. We are informed by an Irish banker,

that there is abundance of money to be got in Ireland for any industry

which has a reasonable chance of success. One thing, however, is

certain: there must be perfect safety. An old writer has said that

"Government is a badge of lost innocence: the palaces of kings are

built upon the ruins of the bowers of paradise." The main use of

government is protection against the weaknesses and selfishness of

human nature. If there be no protection for life, liberty, property,

and the fruits of accumulated industry, government becomes

comparatively useless, and society is driven back upon its first

principles.

Capital is the most sensitive of all things. It flies turbulence and

strife, and thrives only in security and freedom. It must have

complete safety. If tampered with by restrictive laws, or hampered by

combinations, it suddenly disappears. "The age of glory of a nation,"

said Sir Humphry Davy, "is the age of its security. The same dignified

feeling which urges men to gain a dominion over nature will preserve

them from the dominion of slavery. Natural, and moral, and religions

knowledge, are of one family; and happy is the country and great its

strength where they dwell together in union."

Dublin was once celebrated for its shipbuilding, its timber-trade, its

iron manufactures, and its steam-printing; Limerick was celebrated for

its gloves; Kilkenny for its blankets; Bandon for its woollen and linen

manufactures. But most of these trades were banished by strikes.[5]

Dr. Doyle stated before the Irish Committee of 1830, that the almost

total extinction of the Kilkenny blanket-trade was attributable to the

combinations of the weavers; and O'Connell admitted that Trades Unions

had wrought more evil to Ireland than absenteeism and Saxon

maladministration. But working men have recently become more prudent

and thrifty; and it is believed that under the improved system of

moderate counsel, and arbitration between employers and employed, a

more hopeful issue is likely to attend the future of such enterprises.

Another thing is clear. A country may be levelled down by idleness and

ignorance; it can only be levelled up by industry and intelligence. It

is easy to pull down; it is very difficult to build up. The hands that

cannot erect a hovel may demolish a palace. We have but to look to

Switzerland to see what a country may become which mixes its industry

with its brains. That little land has no coal, no seaboard by which

she can introduce it, and is shut off from other countries by lofty

mountains, as well as by hostile tariffs; and yet Switzerland is one of

the most prosperous nations in Europe, because governed and regulated

by intelligent industry. Let Ireland look to Switzerland, and she need

not despair.

Ireland is a much richer country by nature than is generally supposed.

In fact, she has not yet been properly explored. There is copper-ore in

Wicklow, Waterford, and Cork. The Leitrim iron-ores are famous for

their riches; and there is good ironstone in Kilkenny, as well as in

Ulster. The Connaught ores are mixed with coal-beds. Kaolin,

porcelain clay, and coarser clay, abound; but it is only at Belleek

that it has been employed in the pottery manufacture. But the sea

about Ireland is still less explored than the land. All round the

Atlantic seaboard of the Irish coast are shoals of herring and

mackerel, which might be food for men, but are at present only consumed

by the multitudes of sea-birds which follow them.

In the daily papers giving an account of the Cork Exhibition, appeared

the following paragraph: "An interesting exhibit will be a quantity of

preserved herrings from Lowestoft, caught off the old head of Kinsale,

and returned to Cork after undergoing a preserving process in

England."[6] Fish caught off the coast of Ireland by English fishermen,

taken to England and cured, and then "returned to Cork" for exhibition!

Here is an opening for patriotic Irishmen. Why not catch and preserve

the fish at home, and get the entire benefit of the fish traffic? Will

it be believed that there is probably more money value in the seas

round Ireland than there is in the land itself? This is actually the

case with the sea round the county of Aberdeen.[7]

A vast source of wealth lies at the very doors of the Irish people.

But the harvest of an ocean teeming with life is allowed to pass into

other hands. The majority of the boats which take part in the fishery

at Kinsale are from the little island of Man, from Cornwall, from

France, and from Scotland. The fishermen catch the fish, salt them,

and carry them or send them away. While the Irish boats are diminishing

in number, those of the strangers are increasing. In an East Lothian

paper, published in May 1881, I find the following paragraph, under the

head of Cockenzie:-.

"Departure of Boats.--In the early part of this week, a number of the

boats here have left for the herring-fishery at Kinsale, in Ireland.

The success attending their labours last year at that place and at

Howth has induced more of them than usual to proceed thither this year."

It may not be generally known that Cockenzie is a little fishing

village on the Firth of Forth, in Scotland, where the fishermen have

provided themselves, at their own expense, with about fifty decked

fishing-boats, each costing, with nets and gear, about 500L. With

these boats they carry on their pursuits on the coast of Scotland,

England, and Ireland. In 1882, they sent about thirty boats to

Kinsale[8] and Howth. The profits of their fishing has been such as to

enable them, with the assistance of Lord Wemyss, to build for

themselves a convenient harbour at Port Seaton, without any help from

the Government. They find that self-help is the best help, and that it

is absurd to look to the Government and the public purse for what they

can best do for themselves.

The wealth of the ocean round Ireland has long been known. As long ago

as the ninth and tenth centuries, the Danes established a fishery off

the western coasts, and carried on a lucrative trade with the south of

Europe. In Queen Mary's reign, Philip II. of Spain paid 1000L.

annually in consideration of his subjects being allowed to fish on the

north-west coast of Ireland; and it appears that the money was brought

into the Irish Exchequer. In 1650, Sweden was permitted, as a favour,

to employ a hundred vessels in the Irish fishery; and the Dutch in the

reign of Charles I. were admitted to the fisheries on the payment of

30,000L. In 1673, Sir W. Temple, in a letter to Lord Essex, says that

"the fishing of Ireland might prove a mine under water as rich as any

under ground."[9]

The coasts of Ireland abound in all the kinds of fish in common

use--cod, ling, haddock, hake, mackerel, herring, whiting, conger,

turbot, brill, bream, soles, plaice, dories, and salmon. The banks off

the coast of Galway are frequented by myriads of excellent fish; yet,

of the small quantity caught, the bulk is taken in the immediate

neighbourhood of the shores. Galway bay is said to be the finest

fishing ground in the world; but the fish cannot be expected to come on

shore unsought: they must be found, followed, and netted. The

fishing-boats from the west of Scotland are very successful; and they

often return the fish to Ireland, cured, which had been taken out of

the Irish bays. "I tested this fact in Galway," says Mr. S. C. Hall.

"I had ordered fish for dinner; two salt haddocks were brought to me.

On inquiry, I ascertained where they were bought, and learned from the

seller that he was the agent of a Scotch firm, whose boats were at that

time loading in the bay."[10] But although Scotland imports some 80,000

barrels of cured herrings annually into Ireland, that is not enough;

for we find that there is a regular importation of cured herrings, cod,

ling, and hake, from Newfoundland and Nova Scotia, towards the food of

the Irish people.[11]

The fishing village of Claddagh, at Galway, is more decaying than ever.

It seems to have suffered from a bombardment, like the rest of the

town. The houses of the fishermen, when they fall in, are left in

ruins. While the French, and English, and Scotch boats leave the coast

laden with fish, the Claddagh men remain empty-handed. They will only

fish on "lucky days," so that the Galway market is often destitute of

fish, while the Claddagh people are starving. On one occasion an

English company was formed for the purpose of fishing and curing fish

at Galway, as is now done at Yarmouth, Grimsby, Fraserburgh, Wick, and

other places. Operations were commenced, but so soon as the English

fishermen put to sea in their boats, the Claddagh men fell upon them,

and they were glad to escape with their lives.[12] Unfortunately, the

Claddagh men have no organization, no fixed rules, no settled

determination to work, unless when pressed by necessity. The

appearance of the men and of their cabins show that they are greatly in

want of capital; and fishing cannot be successfully performed without a

sufficiency of this industrial element.

Illustrations of this neglected industry might be given to any extent.

Herring fishing, cod fishing, and pilchard fishing, are alike

untouched. The Irish have a strong prejudice against the pilchard;

they believe it to be an unlucky fish, and that it will rot the net

that takes it. The Cornishmen do not think so, for they find the

pilchard fishing to be a source of great wealth. The pilchards strike

upon the Irish coast first before they reach Cornwall. When Mr. Brady,

Inspector of Irish Fisheries, visited St. Ives a few years ago, he saw

captured, in one seine alone, nearly ten thousand pounds of this fish.

Not long since; according to a northern local paper,[13] a large fleet

of vessels in full sail was seen from the west coast of Donegal,

evidently making for the shore. Many surmises were made about the

unusual sight. Some thought it was the Fenians, others the Home

Rulers, others the Irish-American Dynamiters. Nothing of the kind! It

was only a fleet of Scotch smacks, sixty-four in number, fishing for

herring between Torry Island and Horn Head. The Irish might say to the

Scotch fishermen, in the words of the Morayshire legend, "Rejoice, O my

brethren, in the gifts of the sea, for they enrich you without making

any one else the poorer!"

But while the Irish are overlooking their treasure of herring, the

Scotch are carefully cultivating it. The Irish fleet of fishing-boats

fell off from 27,142 in 1823 to 7181 in 1878; and in 1882 they were

still further reduced to 6089.[14] Yet Ireland has a coast-line of

fishing ground of nearly three thousand miles in extent.

The bights and bays on the west coast of Ireland--off Erris, Mayo,

Connemara, and Donegal--swarm with fish. Near Achill Bay, 2000

mackerel were lately taken at a single haul; and Clew Bay is often

alive with fish. In Scull Bay and Crookhaven, near Cape Clear, they

are so plentiful that the peasants often knock them on the head with

oars, but will not take the trouble to net them.

These swarms of fish might be a source of permanent wealth. A

gentleman of Cork one day borrowed a common rod and line from a Cornish

miner in his employment, and caught fifty-seven mackerel from the jetty

in Scull Bay before breakfast. Each of these mackerel was worth

twopence in Cork market, thirty miles off. Yet the people round about,

many of whom were short of food, were doing nothing to catch them, but

expecting Providence to supply their wants. Providence, however,

always likes to be helped. Some people forget that the Giver of all

good gifts requires us to seek for them by industry, prudence, and

perseverance.[15]

Some cry for more loans; some cry for more harbours. It would be well

to help with suitable harbours, but the system of dependence upon

Government loans is pernicious. The Irish ought to feel that the very

best help must come from themselves. This is the best method for

teaching independence. Look at the little Isle of Man. The fishermen

there never ask for loans. They look to their nets and their boats;

they sail for Ireland, catch the fish, and sell them to the Irish

people. With them, industry brings capital, and forms the fertile

seed-ground of further increase of boats and nets. Surely what is

done by the Manxmen, the Cornishmen, and the Cockenziemen, might be

done by the Irishmen. The difficulty is not to be got over by

lamenting about it, or by staring at it, but by grappling with it, and

overcoming it. It is deeds, not words, that are wanted. Employment for

the mass of the people must spring from the people themselves.

Provided there is security for life and property, and an absence of

intimidation, we believe that capital will become invested in the

fishing industry of Ireland; and that the result will be peace, food,

and prosperity.

We must remember that it is only of comparatively late years that

England and Scotland have devoted so much attention to the fishery of

the seas surrounding our island. In this fact there is consolation and

hope for Ireland. At the beginning of the seventeenth century Sir

Waiter Raleigh laid before the King his observations concerning the

trade and commerce of England, in which he showed that the Dutch were

almost monopolising the fishing trade, and consequently adding to their

shipping, commerce, and wealth. "Surely," he says, "the stream is

necessary to be turned to the good of this kingdom, to whose sea-coasts

alone God has sent us these great blessings and immense riches for us

to take; and that every nation should carry away out of this kingdom

yearly great masses of money for fish taken in our seas, and sold again

by them to us, must needs be a great dishonour to our nation, and

hindrance to this realm."

The Hollanders then had about 50,000 people employed in fishing along

the English coast; and their industry and enterprise gave employment to

about 150,000 more, "by sea and land, to make provision, to dress and

transport the fish they take, and return commodities; whereby they are

enabled yearly to build 1000 ships and vessels." The prosperity of

Amsterdam was then so great that it was said that Amsterdam was

"founded on herring-bones." Tobias Gentleman published in 1614 his

treatise on 'England's Way to win Wealth, and to employ Ships and

Marines,'[16] in which he urged the English people to vie with the

Dutch in fishing the seas, and thereby to give abundant employment, as

well as abundant food, to the poorer people of the country.

"Look," he said, "on these fellows, that we call the plump Hollanders;

behold their diligence in fishing, and our own careless negligence!"

The Dutch not only fished along the coasts near Yarmouth, but their

fishing vessels went north as far as the coasts of Shetland. What most

roused Mr. Gentleman's indignation was, that the Dutchmen caught the

fish and sold them to the Yarmouth herring-mongers "for ready gold, so

that it amounteth to a great sum of money, which money doth never come

again into England." "We are daily scorned," he says, "by these

Hollanders, for being so negligent of our Profit, and careless of our

Fishing; and they do daily flout us that be the poor Fishermen of

England, to our Faces at Sea, calling to us, and saying, 'Ya English,

ya sall or oud scoue dragien;' which, in English, is this, 'You

English, we will make you glad to wear our old Shoes!'"

Another pamphlet, to a similar effect, 'The Royal Fishing revived,'[17]

was published fifty years later, in which it was set forward that the

Dutch "have not only gained to themselves almost the sole fishing in

his Majesty's Seas; but principally upon this Account have very near

beat us out of all our other most profitable Trades in all Parts of the

World." It was even proposed to compel "all Sorts of begging Persons

and all other poor People, all People condemned for less Crimes than

Blood," as well as "all Persons in Prison for Debt," to take part in

this fishing trade! But this was not the true way to force the

traffic. The herring fishery at Yarmouth and along the coast began to

make gradual progress with the growth of wealth and enterprise

throughout the country; though it was not until 1787--less than a

hundred years ago--that the Yarmouth men began the deep-sea herring

fishery.

Before then, the fishing was all carried on along shore in little

cobles, almost within sight of land. The native fishery also extended

northward, along the east coast of Scotland and the Orkney and Shetland

Isles, until now the herring fishery of Scotland forms one of the

greatest industries in the United Kingdom, and gives employment,

directly or indirectly, to close upon half a million of people, or to

one-seventh of the whole population of Scotland.

Taking these facts into consideration, therefore, there is no reason to

despair of seeing, before many years have elapsed, a large development

of the fishing industry of Ireland. We may yet see Galway the

Yarmouth, Achill the Grimsby, and Killybegs the Wick of the West.

Modern society in Ireland, as everywhere else, can only be transformed

through the agency of labour, industry, and commerce--inspired by the

spirit of work, and maintained by the accumulations of capital. The

first end of all labour is security,--security to person, possession,

and property, so that all may enjoy in peace the fruits of their

industry. For no liberty, no freedom, can really exist which does not

include the first liberty of all--the right of public and private

safety.

To show what energy and industry can do in Ireland, it is only

necessary to point to Belfast, one of the most prosperous and

enterprising towns in the British Islands. The land is the same, the

climate is the same, and the laws are the same, as those which prevail

in other parts of Ireland. Belfast is the great centre of Irish

manufactures and commerce, and what she has been able to do might be

done elsewhere, with the same amount of energy and enterprise. But it

is not land, or climate, or altered laws that are wanted. It is men to

lead and direct, and men to follow with anxious and persevering

industry. It is always the Man society wants.

The influence of Belfast extends far out into the country. As you

approach it from Sligo, you begin to see that you are nearing a place

where industry has accumulated capital, and where it has been invested

in cultivating and beautifying the land. After you pass Enniskillen,

the fields become more highly cultivated. The drill-rows are more

regular; the hedges are clipped; the weeds no longer hide the crops, as

they sometimes do in the far west. The country is also adorned with

copses, woods, and avenues. A new crop begins to appear in the

fields--a crop almost peculiar to the neighbourhood of Belfast. It is

a plant with a very slender erect green stem, which, when full grown,

branches at the top into a loose corymb of blue flowers. This is the

flax plant, the cultivation and preparation of which gives employment

to a great number of persons, and is to a large extent the foundation

of the prosperity of Belfast.

The first appearance of the linen industry of Ireland, as we approach

Belfast from the west, is observed at Portadown. Its position on the

Bann, with its water power, has enabled this town, as well as the other

places on the river, to secure and maintain their due share in the

linen manufacture. Factories with their long chimneys begin to appear.

The fields are richly cultivated, and a general air of well-being

pervades the district. Lurgan is reached, so celebrated for its

diapers; and the fields there about are used as bleaching-greens.

Then comes Lisburn, a populous and thriving town, the inhabitants of

which are mostly engaged in their staple trade, the manufacture of

damasks. This was really the first centre of the linen trade. Though

Lord Strafford, during his government of Ireland, encouraged the flax

industry, by sending to Holland for flax-seed, and inviting Flemish

and French artisans to settle in Ireland, it was not until the

Huguenots, who had been banished from France by the persecutions of

Louis XIV., settled in Ireland in such large numbers, that the

manufacture became firmly established. The Crommelins, the Goyers, and

the Dupres, were the real founders of this great branch of industry.[18]

As the traveller approaches Belfast, groups of houses, factories, and

works of various kinds, appear closer and closer; long chimneys over

boilers and steam-engines, and brick buildings three or four stories

high; large yards full of workmen, carts, and lorries; and at length we

are landed in the midst of a large manufacturing town. As we enter the

streets, everybody seems to be alive. What struck William Hutton when

he first saw Birmingham, might be said of Belfast: "I was surprised at

the place, but more at the people. They possessed a vivacity I had

never before beheld. I had been among dreamers, but now I saw men

awake. Their very step along the street showed alacrity. Every man

seemed to know what he was about. The town was large, and full of

inhabitants, and these inhabitants full of industry. The faces of other

men seemed tinctured with an idle gloom; but here with a pleasing

alertness. Their appearance was strongly marked with the modes of

civil life."

Some people do not like manufacturing towns: they prefer old castles

and ruins. They will find plenty of these in other parts of Ireland.

But to found industries that give employment to large numbers of

persons, and enable them to maintain themselves and families upon the

fruits of their labour--instead of living upon poor-rates levied from

the labours of others, or who are forced, by want of employment, to

banish themselves from their own country, to emigrate and settle among

strangers, where they know not what may become of them--is a most

honourable and important source of influence, and worthy of every

encouragement.

Look at the wonderfully rapid rise of Belfast, originating in the

enterprise of individuals, and developed by the earnest and anxious

industry of the inhabitants of Ulster!

"God save Ireland!" By all means. But Ireland cannot be saved without

the help of the people who live in it. God endowed men, there as

elsewhere, with reason, will, and physical power; and it is by patient

industry only that they can open up a pathway to the enduring

prosperity of the country. There is no Eden in nature. The earth

might have continued a rude uncultivated wilderness, but for human

energy, power, and industry. These enable man to subdue the

wilderness, and develop the potency of labour. "Possunt quia credunt

posse." They must conquer who will.

Belfast is a comparatively modern town. It has no ancient history.

About the beginning of the sixteenth century it was little better than

a fishing village. There was a castle, and a ford to it across the

Lagan. A chapel was built at the ford, at which hurried prayers were

offered up for those who were about to cross the currents of Lagan

Water. In 1575, Sir Henry Sydney writes to the Lords of the Council:

"I was offered skirmish by MacNeill Bryan Ertaugh at my passage over

the water at Belfast, which I caused to be answered, and passed over

without losse of man or horse; yet by reason of the extraordinaire

Retorne our horses swamme and the Footmen in the passage waded very

deep." The country round about was forest land. It was so thickly

wooded that it was a common saying that one might walk to Lurgan "on

the tops of the trees."

In 1612, Belfast consisted of about 120 houses, built of mud and

covered with thatch. The whole value of the land on which the town is

built, is said to have been worth only 5L. in fee simple.[19] "Ulster,"

said Sir John Davies, "is a very desert or wilderness; the inhabitants

thereof having for the most part no certain habitation in any towns or

villages." In 1659, Belfast contained only 600 inhabitants:

Carrickfergus was more important, and had 1312 inhabitants. But about

1660, the Long Bridge over the Lagan was built, and prosperity began to

dawn upon the little town. It was situated at the head of a navigable

lough, and formed an outlet for the manufacturing products of the

inland country. Ships of any burden, however, could not come near the

town. The cargoes, down even to a recent date, had to be discharged

into lighters at Garmoyle. Streams of water made their way to the

Lough through the mud banks; and a rivulet ran through what is now

known as the High Street.

The population gradually increased. In 1788 Belfast had 12,000

inhabitants. But it was not until after the Union with Great Britain

that the town made so great a stride. At the beginning of the present

century it had about 20,000 inhabitants. At every successive census,

the progress made was extraordinary, until now the population of

Belfast amounts to over 225,000. There is scarcely an instance of so

large a rate of increase in the British Islands, save in the

exceptional case of Middlesborough, which was the result of the opening

out of the Stockton and Darlington Railway, and the discovery of

ironstone in the hills of Cleveland in Yorkshire. Dundee and Barrow

are supposed to present the next most rapid increases of population.

The increase of shipping has also been equally great. Ships from other

ports frequented the Lough for purposes of trade; but in course of time

the Belfast merchants supplied themselves with ships of their own. In

1791 one William Ritchie, a sturdy North Briton, brought with him from

Glasgow ten men and a quantity of shipbuilding materials. He gradually

increased the number of his workmen, and proceeded to build a few

sloops. He reclaimed some land from the sea, and made a shipyard and

graving dock on what was known as Corporation Ground. In November 1800

the new graving dock, near the bridge, was opened for the reception of

vessels. It was capable of receiving three vessels of 200 tons each!

In 1807 a vessel of 400 tons burthen was launched from Mr. Ritchie's

shipyard, when a great crowd of people assembled to witness the

launching of "so large a ship"--far more than now assemble to see a

3000-tonner of the White Star Line leave the slips and enter the water!

The shipbuilding trade has been one of the most rapidly developed,

especially of late years. In 1805 the number of vessels frequenting

the port was 840; whereas in 1883 the number had been increased to

7508, with about a million and a-half of tonnage; while the gross value

of the exports from Belfast exceeded twenty millions sterling annually.

In 1819 the first steamboat of 100 tons was used to tug the vessels up

the windings of the Lough, which it did at the rate of three miles an

hour, to the astonishment of everybody. Seven years later, the

steamboat Rob Roy was put on between Glasgow and Belfast. But these

vessels had been built in Scotland. It was not until 1826 that the

first steamboat, the chieftain, was built in Belfast, by the same

William Ritchie. Then, in 1838, the first iron boat was built in the

Lagan foundry, by Messrs. Coates and Young, though it was but a mere

cockle-shell compared with the mighty ocean steamers which are now

regularly launched from Queen's Island. In the year 1883 the largest

shipbuilding firm in the town launched thirteen vessels, of over 30,000

tons gross, while two other firms launched twelve ships, of about

10,000 tons gross.

I do not propose to enter into details respecting the progress of the

trades of Belfast. The most important is the spinning of fine linen

yarn, which is for the most part concentrated in that town, over

25,000,000 of pounds weight being exported annually. Towards the end of

the seventeenth century the linen manufacture had made but little

progress. In 1680 all Ireland did not export more than 6000L. worth

annually. Drogheda was then of greater importance than Belfast. But

with the settlement of the persecuted Hugnenots in Ulster, and

especially through the energetic labours of Crommelin, Goyer, and

others, the growth of flax was sedulously cultivated, and its

manufacture into linen of all sorts became an important branch of Irish

industry. In the course of about fifty years the exports of linen

fabrics increased to the value of over 600,000L. per annum.

It was still, however, a handicraft manufacture, and done for the most

part at home. Flax was spun and yarn was woven by hand. Eventually

machinery was employed, and the turn-out became proportionately large

and valuable. It would not be possible for hand labour to supply the

amount of linen now turned out by the aid of machinery. It would

require three times the entire population of Ireland to spin and weave,

by the old spinning-wheel and hand-loom methods, the amount of linen

cloth now annually manufactured by the operatives of Belfast alone.

There are now forty large spinning-mills in Belfast and the

neighbourhood, which furnish employment to a very large number of

working people.[20]

In the course of my visit to Belfast, I inspected the works of the York

Street flax-spinning mills, founded in 1830 by the Messrs. Mulholland,

which now give employment, directly or indirectly, to many thousand

persons. I visited also, with my young Italian friend, the admirable

printing establishment of Marcus Ward and Co., the works of the Belfast

Rope-work Company, and the shipbuilding works of Harland and Wolff.

There we passed through the roar of the iron forge, the clang of the

Nasmyth hammer, and the intermittent glare of the furnaces--all telling

of the novel appliances of modern shipbuilding, and the power of the

modern steam-engine. I prefer to give a brief account of this latter

undertaking, as it exhibits one of the newest and most important

industries of Belfast. It also shows, on the part of its proprietors,

a brave encounter with difficulties, and sets before the friends of

Ireland the truest and surest method of not only giving employment to

its people, but of building up on the surest foundations the prosperity

of the country.

The first occasion on which I visited Belfast--the reader will excuse

the introduction of myself--was in 1840; about forty-four years ago. I

went thither on the invitation of the late Wm. Sharman Crawford, Esq.,

M.P., the first prominent advocate of tenant-right, to attend a public

meeting of the Ulster Association, and to spend a few days with him at

his residence at Crawfordsburn, near Bangor. Belfast was then a town

of comparatively little importance, though it had already made a fair

start in commerce and industry. As our steamer approached the head of

the Lough, a large number of labourers were observed--with barrows,

picks, and spades--scooping out and wheeling up the slob and mud of the

estuary, for the purpose of forming what is now known as Queen's

Island, on the eastern side of the river Lagan. The work was conducted

by William Dargan, the famous Irish contractor; and its object was to

make a straight artificial outlet--the Victoria Channel--by means of

which vessels drawing twenty-three feet of water might reach the port

of Belfast. Before then, the course of the Lagan was tortuous and

difficult of navigation; but by the straight cut, which was completed

in 1846, and afterwards extended further seawards, ships of large

burden were enabled to reach the quays, which extend for about a mile

below Queen's Bridge, on both sides of the river.

It was a saying of honest William Dargan, that "when a thing is put

anyway right at all, it takes a vast deal of mismanagement to make it

go wrong." He had another curious saying about "the calf eating the

cow's belly," which, he said, was not right, "at all, at all." Belfast

illustrated his proverbial remarks. That the cutting of the Victoria

Channel was doing the "right thing" for Belfast, was clear, from the

constantly increasing traffic of the port. In course of time, several

extensive docks and tidal basins were added; while provision was made,

in laying out the reclaimed land at the entrance of the estuary, for

their future extension and enlargement. The town of Belfast was by

these means gradually placed in immediate connection by sea with the

principal western ports of England and Scotland,--steamships of large

burden now leaving it daily for Liverpool, Glasgow, Fleetwood, Barrow,

and Ardrossan. The ships entering the port of Belfast in 1883 were

7508, of 1,526,535 tonnage; they had been more than doubled in fifteen

years. The town has risen from nothing, to exhibit a Customs revenue,

in 1883, of 608,781L., infinitely greater than that of Leith, the port

of Edinburgh, or of Hull, the chief port of Yorkshire. The population

has also largely increased. When I visited Belfast in 1840, the town

contained 75,000 inhabitants. They are now over 225,006, or more than

trebled,--Belfast being the tenth town, in point of population, in the

United Kingdom.

The spirit and enterprise of the people are illustrated by the variety

of their occupations. They do not confine themselves to one branch of

business; but their energies overflow into nearly every department of

industry. Their linen manufacture is of world-wide fame; but much less

known are their more recent enterprises. The production of aerated

waters, for instance, is something extraordinary. In 1882 the

manufacturers shipped off 53,163 packages, and 24,263 cwts. of aerated

waters to England, Scotland, Australia, New Zealand, and other

countries. While Ireland produces no wrought iron, though it contains

plenty of iron-stone,--and Belfast has to import all the iron which it

consumes,--yet one engineering firm alone, that of Combe, Barbour, and

Combe, employs 1500 highly-paid mechanics, and ships off its iron

machinery to all parts of the world. The printing establishment of

Marcus Ward and Co. employs over 1000 highly skilled and ingenious

persons, and extends the influence of learning and literature into all

civilised countries. We might add the various manufactures of roofing

felt (of which there are five), of ropes, of stoves, of stable

fittings, of nails, of starch, of machinery; all of which have earned a

world-wide reputation.

We prefer, however, to give an account of the last new industry of

Belfast--that of shipping and shipbuilding. Although, as we have said,

Belfast imports from Scotland and England all its iron and all its

coal,[21] it nevertheless, by the skill and strength of its men, sends

out some of the finest and largest steamships which navigate the

Atlantic and Pacific. It all comes from the power of individuality,

and furnishes a splendid example for Dublin, Cork, Waterford, and

Limerick, each of which is provided by nature with magnificent

harbours, with fewer of those difficulties of access which Belfast has

triumphed over; and each of which might be the centre of some great

industrial enterprise, provided only there were patriotic men willing

to embark their capital, perfect protection for the property invested,

and men willing to work rather than to strike.

It was not until the year 1853 that the Queen's Island--raked out of

the mud of the slob-land--was first used for shipbuilding purposes.

Robert Hickson and Co. then commenced operations by laying down the

Mary Stenhouse, a wooden sailing-ship of 1289 tons register; and the

vessel was launched in the following year.

The operations of the firm were continued until the year 1859, when the

shipbuilding establishments on Queen's Island were acquired by Mr. E.

J. Harland (afterwards Harland and Wolff), since which time the

development of this great branch of industry in Belfast has been rapid

and complete.

From the history of this firm, it will be found that energy is the most

profitable of all merchandise; and that the fruit of active work is the

sweetest of all fruits. Harland and Wolff are the true Watt and

Boulton of Belfast. At the beginning of their great enterprise, their

works occupied about four acres of land; they now occupy over

thirty-six acres. The firm has imported not less than two hundred

thousand tons of iron; which have been converted by skill and labour

into 168 ships of 253,000 total tonnage. These ships, if laid close

together, would measure nearly eight miles in length.

The advantage to the wage-earning class can only be shortly stated.

Not less than 34 per cent. is paid in labour on the cost of the ships

turned out. The number of persons employed in the works is 3920; and

the weekly wages paid to them is 4000L., or over 200,000L. annually.

Since the commencement of the undertaking, about two millions sterling

have been paid in wages.

All this goes towards the support of the various industries of the

place. That the working classes of Belfast are thrifty and frugal may

be inferred from the fact that at the end of 1882 they held deposits in

the Savings Bank to the amount of 230,289L., besides 158,064L. in the

Post Office Savings Banks.[22] Nearly all the better class working

people of the town live in separate dwellings, either rented or their

own property. There are ten Building Societies in Belfast, in which

industrious people may store their earnings, and in course of time

either buy or build their own houses.

The example of energetic, active men always spreads. Belfast contains

two other shipbuilding yards, both the outcome of Harland and Wolff's

enterprise; those of Messrs. Macilwaine and Lewis, employing about four

hundred men, and of Messrs. Workman and Clarke, employing about a

thousand. The heads of both these firms were trained in the parent

shipbuilding works of Belfast. There is do feeling of rivalry between

the firms, but all work together for the good of the town.

In Plutarch's Lives, we are told that Themistocles said on one

occasion, "'Tis true that I have never learned how to tune a harp, or

play upon a lute, but I know how to raise a small and inconsiderable

city to glory and greatness." So might it be said of Harland and

Wolff. They have given Belfast not only a potency for good, but a

world-wide reputation. Their energies overflow. Mr. Harland is the

active and ever-prudent Chairman of the most important of the local

boards, the Harbour Trust of Belfast, and exerts himself to promote the

extension of the harbour facilities of the port as if the benefits were

to be exclusively his own; while Mr. Wolff is the Chairman of one of

the latest born industries of the place, the Belfast Rope-work Company,

which already gives employment to over 600 persons.

This last-mentioned industry is only about six years old. The works

occupy over seven acres of ground, more than six acres of which are

under roofing. Although the whole of the raw material is imported from

abroad from Russia, the Philippine Islands, New Zealand, and Central

America--it is exported again in a manufactured state to all parts of

the world.

Such is the contagion of example, and such the ever-branching

industries with which men of enterprise and industry can enrich and

bless their country. The following brief memoir of the career of Mr.

Harland has been furnished at my solicitation; and I think that it will

be found full of interest as well as instruction.

Footnotes for Chapter X.

[1] Report in the Cork Examiner, 5th July, 1883.

[2] In 1883, as compared with 1882, there was a decrease of 58,022

acres in the land devoted to the growth of wheat; there was a total

decrease of 114,871 acres in the land under tillage.--Agricultural

Statistics, Ireland, 1883. Parliamentary Return, c. 3768.

[3] Statistical Abstract for the United Kingdom, 1883.

[4] The particulars are these: deposits in Irish Post Office Savings

Banks, 31st December, 1882, 1,925,440; to the credit of depositors and

Government stock, 125,000L.; together, 2,050,440L.

The increase of deposits over those made in the preceding year, were:

in Dublin, 31,321L.; in Antrim, 23,328L.; in Tyrone, 21,315L.; in Cork,

17,034L.; and in Down, 10,382L.

[5] The only thriving manufacture now in Dublin is that of intoxicating

drinks--beer, porter, stout, and whisky. Brewing and distilling do not

require skilled labour, so that strikes do not affect them.

[6] Times, 11th June, 1883.

[7] The valuation of the county of Aberdeen (exclusive of the city) was

recently 866,816L., whereas the value of the herrings (748,726 barrels)

caught round the coast (at 25s. the barrel) was 935,907L., thereby

exceeding the estimated annual rental of the county by 69,091L. The

Scotch fishermen catch over a million barrels of herrings annually,

representing a value of about a million and a-half sterling.

[8] A recent number of Land and Water supplies the following

information as to the fishing at Kinsale:--"The takes of fish have been

so enormous and unprecedented that buyers can scarcely be found, even

when, as now, mackerel are selling at one shilling per six score.

Piles of magnificent fish lie rotting in the sun. The sides of Kinsale

Harbour are strewn with them, and frequently, when they have become a

little 'touched,' whole boat-loads are thrown overboard into the water.

This great waste is to be attributed to scarcity of hands to salt the

fish and want of packing-boxes. Some of the boats are said to have

made as much as 500L. this season. The local fishing company are

making active preparations for the approaching herring fishery, and it

is anticipated that Kinsale may become one of the centres of this

description of fishing."

[9] Statistical Journal for March 1848. Paper by Richard Valpy on "The

Resources of the Irish Sea Fisheries," pp. 55-72.

[10] HALL, Retrospect of a Long Life, ii. 324.

[11] The Commissioners of Irish Fisheries, in one of their reports,

observe:--"Notwithstanding the diminished population, the fish captured

round the coast is so inadequate to the wants of the population that

fully 150,000L. worth of ling, cod, and herring are annually imported

from Norway, Newfoundland, and Scotland, the vessels bearing these

cargoes, as they approach the shores of Ireland, frequently sailing

through large shoals of fish of the same description as they are

freighted with!"

[12] The following examination of Mr. J. Ennis, chairman of the Midland

and Great Western Railway, took place before the "Royal Commission on

Railways," as long ago as the year 1846:--

Chairman--"Is the fish traffic of any importance to your railway?"

Mr. Ennis--"of course it is, and we give it all the facilities that we

can.... But the Galway fisheries, where one would expect to find

plenty of fish, are totally neglected."

Sir Rowland Hill--"What is the reason of that?"

Mr. Ennis--"I will endeavour to explain. I had occasion a few nights

ago to speak to a gentleman in the House of Commons with regard to an

application to the Fishery Board for 2000L. to restore the pier at

Buffin, in Clew Bay, and I said, 'Will you join me in the application?

I am told it is a place that swarms with fish, and if we had a pier

there the fishermen will have some security, and they will go out.' The

only answer I received was, 'They will not go out; they pay no

attention whatever to the fisheries; they allow the fish to come and go

without making any effort to catch them....'"

Mr. Ayrton--"Do you think that if English fishermen went to the west

coast of Ireland they would be able to get on in harmony with the

native fishermen?"

Mr. Ennis--"We know the fact to be, that some years ago, a company was

established for the purpose of trawling in Galway Bay, and what was the

consequence? The Irish fishermen, who inhabit a region in the

neighbourhood of Galway, called Claddagh, turned out against them, and

would not allow them to trawl, and the Englishmen very properly went

away with their lives."

Sir Rowland Hill--"Then they will neither fish themselves nor allow any

one else to fish!"

Mr. Ennis--"It seems to be so."--Minutes of Evidence, 175-6.

[13] The Derry Journal.

[14] Report of Inspectors of Irish Fisheries for 1882.

[15] The Report of the Inspectors of Irish Fisheries on the Sea and

Inland Fisheries of Ireland for 1882, gives a large amount of

information as to the fish which swarm round the Irish coast. Mr. Brady

reports on the abundance of herring and other fish all round the coast.

Shoals of herrings "remained off nearly the entire coast of Ireland

from August till December." "Large shoals of pilchards" were observed

on the south and south-west coasts. Off Dingle, it is remarked, "the

supply of all kinds of fish is practically inexhaustible."

"Immense shoals of herrings off Liscannor and Loop Head;" "the

mackerel is always on this coast, and can be captured at any time of

the year, weather permitting." At Belmullet, "the shoals of fish off

the coast, particularly herring and mackerel, are sometimes enormous."

The fishermen, though poor, are all very orderly and well conducted.

They only want energy and industry.

[16] The Harleian Miscellany, iii. 378-91.

[17] The Harleian Miscellany, iii. 392.

[18] See The Huguenots in England and Ireland. A Board of Traders, for

the encouragement and promotion of the hemp and flax manufacture in

Ireland, was appointed by an Act of Parliament at the beginning of last

century (6th October, 1711), and the year after the appointment of the

Board the following notice was placed on the records of the

institution:--"Louis Crommelin and the Huguenot colony have been

greatly instrumental in improving and propagating the flaxen

manufacture in the north of this Kingdom, and the perfection to which

the same is brought in that part of the country has been greatly owing

to the skill and industry of the said Crommelin." In a history of the

linen trade, published at Belfast, it is said that "the dignity which

that enterprising man imparted to labour, and the halo which his

example cast around physical exertion, had the best effect in raising

the tone of popular feeling, as well among the patricians as among the

peasants of the north of Ireland. This love of industry did much to

break down the national prejudice in favour of idleness, and cast

doubts on the social orthodoxy of the idea then so popular with the

squirearchy, that those alone who were able to live without employment

had any rightful claim to the distinctive title of gentleman.... A

patrician by birth and a merchant by profession, Crommelin proved, by

his own life, his example, and his enterprise, that an energetic

manufacturer may, at the same time, take a high place in the

conventional world."

[19] Benn's History of Belfast, p. 78.

[20] From the Irish Manufacturers' Almanack for 1883 I learn that

nearly one-third of the spindles used in Europe in the linen trade, and

more than one-fourth of the power-looms, belong to Ireland, that "the

Irish linen and associated trades at present give employment to 176,303

persons; and it is estimated that the capital sunk in spinning and

weaving factories, and the business incidental thereto, is about

100,000,000L., and of that sum 37,000,000L. is credited to Belfast

alone."

[21] The importation of coal in 1883 amounted to over 700,000 tons.

[22] We are indebted to the obliging kindness of the Right Hon. Mr.

Fawcett, Postmaster-General for this return. The total number of

depositors in the Post Office Savings banks in the Parliamentary

borough of Belfast is 10,827 and the amount of their deposits,

including the interest standing to their credit, on the 31st December,

1882, was 158,064L. 0s. 1d.

An important item in the savings of Belfast, not included in the above

returns, consists in the amounts of deposits made with the various

Limited Companies, as well as with the thriving Building Societies in

the town and neighbourhood.

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