of which, being lifted up, exhibit a series of grotesque figures,
curiously carved, in bas relief; no two of which resemble each other.
Over the communion table is a large painting, representing the last
supper.--The vicarage, where the Rev. Philip Pratt resides, is in a
delightful situation, being on an eminence, and encompassed with lofty
and majestic trees.
There are three fairs in the year, viz. February 24th, Tuesday in the
whitsun week, and the Tuesday before St. Michael; at which time the
races take place, and have been for a number of years both numerously
and genteely attended; as a proof of it, the inhabitants in the year
1809 expended the sum of thirteen hundred pounds in the erection of
a grand stand; in the lower apartments of which is a billiard table,
where they resort for recreation. The fair at whitsuntide is not held
by charter, but being market day, at that holiday time is considered
a fair by prescription. There is in this town a charity school for
twenty-four boys and sixteen girls, who are all cloathed in blue: they
are instructed and cloathed gratis, but neither lodged nor boarded.
The expenses attending this school are defrayed by subscriptions,
donations, and sermons preached on the wake Sunday, which is the
Sunday before St. Michael. The school-room is near the George hotel.
There is also a free grammar school, near the church, founded by Queen
Mary, in the first year of her reign, which she endowed with certain
lands that are vested in trustees. The High-street is spacious, and
therein are some respectable shops, and a conduit for the use of the
inhabitants.--Park-street is also a wide one, but there are numerous
low houses in it.
The town has a singular appearance; its situation being upon a bold
eminence, from whose summit arises a fine old gothic church, with a
lofty spire, the streets and houses descending in every direction. In
the vicinity are numerous lime stone quarries, some of which are open
from the surface, and from others it is drawn up through a shaft,
similar to coal mines.
Mr. Siddons, the husband of the celebrated actress, was born in
Rushall-street, in this town, whilst his father kept a public-house,
known by the sign of the London apprentice, whose death was occasioned
by sparring or wrestling with a person named Denston. The present Mr.
Siddons was originally a barber, but having an inclination for the
stage, he joined the itinerant company of Mr. Kemble, and married one
of his daughters, who afterwards proved the heroine of the stage.
Another well-known character was also a native of this town, viz,
Thomas Haskey, the celebrated ventriloquist, who was by trade a bridle
bit maker; but whilst an apprentice he left his master, and entered
into the army, where he lost a leg and obtained a pension. When young,
he did not know the abilities he possessed, but hearing O'Burn,
he endeavoured to imitate him; and when Mr. Stanton's company of
performers were at Walsall, he repeatedly from the gallery entertained
the audience by sham dialogues, in two voices, between himself and
Tommy. He was an ignorant man, but possessing this unusual faculty, he
was frequently sent for by Lord Dudley, to entertain the company at
Himley, upon which occasions, he always hired a post chaise to convey
him there. He afterwards went to London, and performed at Sadler's
Wells in the year 1796, and when his benefit came on, he cleared £200.
About one mile from the town, on the road to Wolverhampton, is a
strong chalybeate water, called Alum well.
About one mile and a half from Walsall, near to Bentley hall, at a
place called Pouck hill, as some workmen were opening a quarry, they
discovered numerous basaltic columns, some of which are from four to
five feet in diameter, of various lengths, some singularly waved,
others straight; some of the joints short and others extend to the
length of five or six feet: they lie nearly in an horizontal position,
and resemble at a distance large trees piled one upon another.
The chief articles manufactured in this town and its vicinity are
bridle bitts, stirrups, spurs and other articles either used or sold
by the saddlers.
_Barr Park, distant five miles, on the road to Walsall_.
The hospitable mansion of Sir Joseph Scott, Bart, is surrounded by a
park of considerable extent, wherein there is the greatest variety
of undulating hills and dales, wood and water, together with such
extensive views, as can only be found in this part of the kingdom. To
this park there are three entrances, and at every avenue the worthy
proprietor has erected an elegant lodge, from whence there are
capacious carriage roads to the mansion. One of these lodges is about
five miles on the road to Walsall, to which you approach by taking the
right hand road, opposite a house of entertainment, the Scott's arms,
and then taking the second turning to the left conducts you to the
lodge. On entering the park, a circular coach drive leads to the holly
wood, through which you proceed by a serpentine road near half a mile,
when a beautiful sheet of water presents itself to view, along whose
banks you pass near a mile before you arrive at the mansion.
The situation of the building is low in front of the water, but being
screened by rising ground and lofty trees, it must be very warm in
the winter. On the left of the house, a walk leads you to the flower
garden, which is laid out with great taste, containing flowers and
small shrubs of the choicest and rarest kinds, together with a
fountain in the centre. From hence there are delightful views, and
among others over the adjacent country, Birmingham is distinctly seen.
At the distance of about two miles farther, towards Walsall, there is
another lodge, which is the entrance from Walsall, and leads you by a
spacious serpentine road through the Marrian wood, which is composed
of various shrubs and evergreens, and conducts you to a most elegant
chapel, with a beautiful and well-proportioned spire, underneath which
you enter into one of the most sumptuous places of worship in the
universe. There are in the whole eleven lofty windows, and seven of
them are ornamented in the most elegant manner with stained glass, by
Eginton: they are all full length figures, large as life, with
their proper attributes. The first represents Fortitude, the second
Temperance, the third Justice, in the fourth, which is over the
communion table, is the apotheosis of a child, after the Rev. Mr.
Peters, the fifth represents Hope, the sixth Charity, and the seventh
Prudence. The pews and every other part correspond, there being a
sumptuous organ, with a gallery in front of it, which extends on each
side, before two windows. In a spacious cemetary there are some tombs,
much more elegant than are usually met with; there is also a yew tree
of large dimensions, which is grown much higher than trees of that
species do in general, and also some venerable elms, together with the
village school. Close adjoining is another lodge, and the road from
it conducts you over an elegant bridge, on the right of which is a
cascade.
There is also another lodge, at a place called the Quieslet, about six
miles on the road to Barr-beacon, where a spacious road conducts you
for a considerable distance, by a plantation of oaks, and so through
the park, wherein there are fixed numerous seats, which command
delightful and comprehensive prospects, and among others may be seen
the extensive sheet of water in the vale, backed by a grand screen of
venerable oaks and verdant hills; at same time, from amidst the nearer
trees and shrubs, the house appears to emerge, and adds considerably
to the scene. From the various knolls with which this park abounds,
there are several that command a view of Birmingham, and also of the
woods in Sandwell park.
There is also a view of the ruins of Dudley castle, and from another
eminence the churches of Wolverhampton and Wednesbury are seen, with
the elegant spire of Barr chapel in front. From the lodge at the
approach from Walsall there is an extensive view over the country,
bounded in the horizon, to the left by Dudley castle, the Rowley
hills, &c. and to the right by the Wrekin and other mountains in
Shropshire.
_To Dudley, in Worcestershire, through West-bromwich, ten miles on the
road to Stourbridge_.
You proceed down Snowhill, pass by the Soho, through Handsworth and
West-bromwich, and along the Wolverhampton road, near six miles, when
the road divides, and you take to the left, having the ruins of Dudley
castle full in view. After crossing the Birmingham canal, you come to
_Tipton, eight miles_.
In this parish the following works are carried on in an extensive
manner:--
Blair and Stevenson, soap and lead.
Harrison, Oliver, and Co. Horsley iron-works.
Walker and Co. Gospel-oak iron-works.
Dixon, Turton, and Co. have three furnaces.
Round, Caddick, and Co. Old church forge.
Messrs. Parkers, iron-masters.
Zephaniah Parkes and Co. iron-masters.
Messrs. Willets, iron-masters.
Birmingham Co. iron-masters.
Bagnall and Co. iron-masters.
Moat colliery.
Horsley ditto.
New Church ditto.
Tibbington ditto.
Glebe Land ditto.
Ockerhill ditto.
Puppy Green ditto.
Dudley Port ditto.
Birmingham Co. ditto.
Brookhouse ditto.
The church is dedicated to St. Lawrence, of which the Rev. James Bevan
is perpetual curate. From hence you pass by the Dudley brewery, and
having ascended the hill, arrive at _Dudley, ten miles_.
In this town there are two parish churches, one of which is dedicated
to St. Thomas, and is now rebuilding in a magnificent manner, to which
a lofty spire is attached; it being in height 170 feet, and therein
are ten musical bells: of this church the Rev. Luke Booker, L.L.D. is
vicar. The other is dedicated to St. Edmund, wherein a free gallery
has been erected by subscription; over which the Rev. Proctor Robinson
presides.
The different sects of presbyterians, baptists, quakers, methodists,
and independants, have each of them their respective places of
worship.
There is a free school, founded by King Edward 6th, two national
schools, on the plan of Dr. Bell, and one Lancasterian ditto. The
inhabitants who have a taste for reading, have established a library,
wherein there are more than three thousand volumes.
There are here five glass houses, two of which belong to Messrs.
T. and G. Hawkes, where the most superb articles are manufactured;
another to Mr. John Roughton; a fourth to Price, Cook, Wood, and Co.;
and the fifth is at Holly-hall, belonging to Zephaniah Parkes and Co.
There are also the following iron-works established:--
Zephaniah Parkes and Co.
Messrs. Attwoods, three furnaces.
Glazebrook and Whitehouse.
Salisbury, Hawkes, and Co.
---- Banks.
Wainwright, Jones, and Co.
At the priory, there is a powerful steam engine, belonging to Mr.
Benson; and on the road to Birmingham is a brewery, belonging to a
public company. In the environs are numerous mines of coal, ironstone,
and lime; which land, where the mines have not been worked, sells
in general for about one thousand pounds per acre.--Nails and heavy
iron-work employ a great part of the population.
The ancient castle, of which there still remains the keep and the
gateway, is said to have been erected about the year 700, by a person
named Dodo, from whom the name of the town is derived. Underneath the
hill, whereon the castle was situated, there are stupendous caverns,
from whence the lime stone has been conveyed away, which are truly
august, being of considerable extent, and proportionably high; the
roof being supported by rude pillars of vast dimensions, which have
been left by the miners for that purpose. There is one tunnel that
perforates the hill entirely, being in length near two miles: it is in
height thirteen feet, in width nine feet, and in one part sixty-four
feet below the surface.
These enormous subterranean works, with the method of procuring the
stone, are highly deserving the attention of strangers, who have there
an opportunity of seeing this useful article forced from its natural
situation by means of gunpowder; raised from the bowels of the earth,
and conveyed through the country by means of inland navigation, to
serve the purpose of the agriculturist, and also the architect. In
these rocks there are numerous marine productions, and among others,
one which the miners denominate a locust, for which they have been
known to refuse its weight in gold; it being understood that there is
only one other place in the kingdom where they are to be found.
The mines of coal in this vicinity are from ten to twelve yards in
thickness, which circumstance it is said does not take place in any
other part of the kingdom. A stranger approaching Dudley after it
is dark, will be astonished to see the numerous fires in different
directions, which proceed from the furnaces, forges, and collieries;
the latter converting their small coal into coke.
The noble proprietor of these extensive mines and the ruins above
them has for several successive years planted innumerable trees of
different kinds around the castle hill, and during last summer
(1818) he caused avenues to be cut through them, which form the most
romantic, picturesque, and diversified shady walks, extending over
numerous hills and dales, that can be imagined; the views that
occasionally present themselves when least expected, are enchanting,
and when you arrive at the summit, there is a most extensive prospect
over the counties of Worcester, Stafford, Derby, Leicester, Warwick,
Salop, Hereford, and part of Wales: it is not only extensive, but full
of variety, comprising hills and dales, woods and villages, populous
towns, and busy seats of manufacture; a scene that may be justly
termed, of various view, warm and alive with human habitations.--From
this eminence eighteen churches are discernable; viz, those of Dudley,
Birmingham, West-bromwich, Walsall, Rushall, Wednesbury, Darlaston,
Tipton, Bilston, Wednesfield, Wolverhampton, Sedgley, Briery-hill,
Oldswinford, and Pedmore; also the fine obelisk and castle at Hagley;
the elegant seat of Lord Westcote; Envil, the admired seat of Lord
Stamford; and part of the woods at Himley, the spacious and beautiful
seat of the humane, generous, and noble proprietor of these ruins. The
stupendous mountains of Malvern (though near forty miles distant),
bounding the horizon towards the south, are grand and noble features
in the scene; as are also those of Clent, Abberley, the Cleys, and the
Wrekin;
"Mountains, on whose barren breast
The lab'ring clouds do often rest."
_To Dudley, in Worcestershire, through Oldbury, distant_ _nine miles._
Having passed the Sand-pits and Spring-hill, you cross the Birmingham
canal and enter upon what was Birmingham heath, which being inclosed
in the year 1800, was found to contain 289 acres, which land now lets
from thirty to fifty shillings per acre.
On the right hand is a boat-builder's yard, and on the left a
glass-house, belonging to Messrs. Biddle and Lloyd. Proceeding towards
the windmill, you perceive at a short distance on the right hand
another glass-house, belonging to Messrs. Shakespear and Fletcher.
Ascending the hill, there is on the right an extensive view over the
adjacent country, including Barr-beacon, Mr. Boulton's plantations,
and Winson-green, a neat house, in the possession of Mrs. Steward. On
the left is Summerfield-house, late the residence of John Iddins, Esq.
but now of James Woolley, Esq. and beyond it, a neat white house,
occupied by Mr. Hammond. Over an apparently wooded country, you have a
windmill in full view, and when at the foot of the hill, on the right
is Smethwick grove, the residence of John Lewis Moilliet, Esq.
* * * * *
You now enter Smethwick, which is in Staffordshire, and ascending the
hill, a neat brick house makes its appearance on the right hand, where
John Reynolds, Esq. resides, who, by succeeding to what was considered
by Mr. Lane, his predecessor, to be a worn out trade, accumulated a
considerable fortune, and has retired from business to enjoy it near
twenty years. At the summit of the hill on the left is Shireland hall,
which is now converted into a seminary for young ladies, under the
superintendance of Miss Marmont.
There are in Smethwick some works of considerable magnitude, viz.
Messrs. Boulton and Watt's manufactory for steam engines; an extensive
soap work, belonging to Messrs. Adkins and Nock; a manufactory of
brass, under the denomination of the Smethwick brass company; and also
one of British crown glass, belonging to Thomas Shutt and Co. There is
a house called the Beakes, where Wm. Wynne Smith, Esq. resides.
The place of worship is a chapel of ease to the parish of Harborne, and
is a neat modern brick tower building, of a single pace, lofty and
coved, about sixty feet by twenty-four, and well paved, with a gallery
at the west end. The present incumbent is the Rev. Edward Dales, who
resides in the neat parsonage-house on the south side of the chapel
yard.
Leaving Smethwick, you proceed towards Oldbury, upon which road the
trustees are making great improvements, by widening the road and
turning the course of a brook, over which they are building a bridge,
which when finished will be a great accommodation. This village
is situated in the county of Salop, and is a chapel of ease to
Halesowen. A new court-house was erected here in the year 1816,
where the court of requests is held once a fortnight. The protestant
dissenters have here a neat place of worship, as have also the
methodists. Close to the village are several coal mines, and a blast
furnace, belonging to Mr. Parker.[7]
[Footnote 7: From this place you have an excellent view of Rowley
hills, the ruins of Dudley castle, and the fine woods in Sandwell
park.]
About a mile distant, on the left of the road is the Brades, where
Messrs. William Hunt and Sons have established a considerable
manufacture of iron and steel, which they form into scythes, hay
knives, trowels, and every kind of hoe now in use. This road from
Birmingham to Dudley is at least one mile nearer than going through
West-bromwich, and in my opinion will be sufficiently commodious for
the traffic there is between the two towns. The distance is only nine
miles, and in travelling that short space of ground you are in four
different counties; Birmingham being in Warwickshire; Smethwick, in
Staffordshire; Oldbury, in Shropshire; and Dudley in the county of
Worcester.
N. B. Since writing the above, the bridge is completed, and the whole
line of road improved to a considerable degree.
_To Hockley-house, ten miles, on the road to Stratford-upon-Avon and
also to Warwick._
You proceed through Deritend, up Camp-hill, and when near the summit,
there is on the right hand an ancient brick building, called the
Ravenhurst, the residence of Mr. John Lowe, attorney, who is equally
respectable in his profession, as the house is in appearance. A short
distance beyond on the left is Fair-hill, where Samuel Lloyd, Esq.
resides, and on the opposite side of the road is the Larches, the
abode of Wm. Withering, Esq.--This house, when it belonged to Mr.
Darbyshire, was known by the name of Foul Lake, but when Dr. Priestley
resided there, he gave it the name of Fair-hill; afterwards, being
purchased by Dr. Withering, he altered the name of it to the Larches.
Having passed through the turnpike, on the left is Sparkbrook-house,
John Rotton, Esq. resident. At the distance of one mile and a half the
road to Warwick branches off to the left, and on the summit of the
hill is Spark-hill-house, inhabited by Miss Morris. Opposite the three
mile stone is a very neat pile of building, called Green-bank-house,
where Benjamin Cooke, Esq. has taken up his abode. A little beyond, at
a place called the Coal-bank, there is a free school, which is endowed
with about forty pounds per annum.
At a short distance on the left is Marston chapel, which is usually
called Hall-green chapel: it was erected and endowed by Job Marston,
Esq. of Hall-green hall, with about ninety acres of land, and other
donations.
At the distance of five miles, you pass through a village called
Shirley Street; and at the distance of another fire miles, you arrive
at Hockley-house; a place of entertainment, where travellers of every
denomination are accommodated in a genteel manner, and on reasonable
terms. About one mile from hence, on the road to Stratford, is
Umberslade, or Omberslade, where the Archer family were used to
reside, but it is now untenanted.
_From Hockley-house to Warwick, ten miles._
At the distance of one quarter of a mile, there is on the right a view
of Lapworth church, and on the left is Pack wood-house, which is at
present unoccupied. At Rowington, the Warwick canal is carried at
an immense expense over a deep valley, and also through a tunnel of
considerable length; on the left is the village church, to which you
ascend by steps cut in the solid rock, and near to it is the handsome
residence of Samuel Aston, Esq. from hence you proceed through Hatton
to Warwick.
_To Warwick, twenty miles_--_Leamington, twenty-two miles._
You proceed through Deritend and Bordesley, continuing upon the
Stratford road for one mile and a half, when you turn to the left;
and at the distance of two miles there is a view over a well-wooded
country, with the spire of Yardley church on the left. At
Acock's-green there is a prospect nearly similar; and in a field,
opposite the five mile stone, there is an extensive picturesque
landscape, with a sheet of water in front, which covers about thirty
acres;[8] in the midst of which is a small island, with some trees
upon it, that adds considerably to the scene.
[Footnote 8: This sheet of water is the reservoir of the Warwick
canal.]
_Solihull, distant seven miles._
This beautiful, neat, and clean village had at one time a market, but
that has been discontinued for a long time. There are still three
fairs annually; one on the 29th of April, another on the 11th of
September, and the third on the 12th of October. There are here
several genteel and commodious houses; the vicinity being very
respectable. The, church is an ancient gothic pile of building, with
an elegant spire. The Rev. Charles Curtis is rector.
Leaving the village, on the right you pass by Malvern-hall, the
residence of H.G. Lewis, Esq. and afterwards arrive at Balsall Temple,
which in former days belonged to the knights templars, and at their
dissolution the knights hospitallers became possessed of it, in
whom it remained till the general dissolution of the abbies. It was
afterwards converted into an hospital, for the reception of indigent
women, either unmarried or widows, to be selected from Balsall and
Long Itchington, in Warwickshire, Trentham, in Staffordshire,
or Lillenhall, in Shropshire. This institution is now in great
prosperity, the annual income amounting to near £1500; the number of
its alms-women is at present thirty. The buildings are extensive and
substantial, forming a complete square, and healthfully situated on
the verge of a spacious and fertile green. The trustees are the bishop
of Lichfield and Coventry, together with the Earls of Warwick and
Aylesford, assisted by other respectable gentlemen in the county, who
have placed the whole institution under the immediate charge of a
master, with a salary of £150. per annum, who is at this time the Rev.
J. Short.