are plump and edges begin to curl; season with salt, pepper, and 2 tbp
butter; pour over buttered toast.
OYSTERS SAUTE
1 doz large oysters; butter, pepper, salt; drain juice from oysters
thoroughly; butter frying pan; when very hot place oysters in single
layers; when brown on one side turn and brown on other side; while
cooking keep adding a little butter. This, with the juice of the
oysters, form a brown skin in pan; season with pepper and salt; when
browned serve oysters and skin very hot.
SHRIMPS
Shrimps are caught in season from early spring till late autumn; they
are about 2″ long, covered with a thin shell and are boiled and sent
to market with the heads removed; they are used in salads; as garnish
for boiled fish; they are creamed and served in patty shells; they may
be prepared by any of formulas already given for lobsters or crabs;
the seasoning should be less heavy, as the flavor of shrimp is more
delicate; canned shrimp should always be rinsed in lightly salted water
and well drained and aired before they are used. Before using remove
any of the shell and the fine black thread of intestine.
CREAMED SHRIMPS AND PEAS
1 can peas, 1 can shrimps, 2 c white sauce.
Drain peas; finely divide shrimp; combine peas and shrimp and add white
sauce; heat thoroughly and serve on buttered toast.
CRAWFISH
Crawfish are found in fresh water streams; they resemble lobster, and
are largely used for garnishes, sauces, salads, etc.
CRAWFISH BORDELAISE
1½ lb crawfish meat, ½ pt cream sauce, 1 tbp butter, 1 glass red
wine, 1 tbp minced carrot, 1 tbp minced onion, ½ tsp salt, few
grains cayenne, few grains nutmeg.
Cook carrot and onion in butter; add wine, meat and cream sauce with
seasonings; boil 5 min and serve hot.
SCALLOPS
Scallops are bivalve mollusks; the heavy muscle which holds together
the shell is the only part used as food; they are usually cooked stewed
or fried. To fry: Dip in egg, roll in bread crumbs, dust with salt and
pepper and fry in deep fat. To stew: Make a pt of white sauce; add
scallops and cook 10 min in db.
SCRAMBLED SCALLOPS
Boil ½ pt scallops till tender; drain, chop or pick them apart; mix
with 2 well-beaten eggs, 2 tbp milk, salt and pepper to taste; cook in
hot butter in frying pan, stirring as they thicken; when the egg is
firm, turn out on toast.
SCALLOPS IN SHELL
1 pt scallops, 2 tbp butter, 1 tbp flour, yolk 3 eggs, 1 c
drained liquid, 4 tbp bread crumbs, 1 slice onion, ½ tsp salt,
few grains cayenne.
Drain scallops; toss them with 1 tbp butter in saucepan; brown lightly
for about 10 min; drain from the butter and chop fine; melt 1 tbp
butter; add onion minced fine and brown it lightly; add flour; cook
together and stir in slowly scallop liquid; mix chopped scallops with
bread crumbs and seasonings; add to sauce; beat yolks lightly; add to
mixture and cook together for 3 min; fill the shells, sprinkle fine
bread crumbs over top; dot with bits of butter and brown in a hot oven
for 10 min.
TERRAPIN
Put in a kettle, cover with boiling salted water; add 2 slices carrot
and onion, and a stalk of celery; cook until meat is tender, or about
40 min; remove from water, cool, draw out nails from feet, cut under
shell close to upper shell and remove; empty upper shell and carefully
remove and discard gall bladder, sandbags, and thick, heavy part of
intestines; any of gall bladder would give a bitter flavor to dish; the
liver, small intestines, and eggs are used with the meat.
BUTTERED CLAMS
Wash thoroughly and plunge them into boiling water for a moment; drain
and open them; place in frying pan; some butter, and when quite hot add
a little flour and cayenne to suit taste; simmer clams till they are
slightly cooked; cover and simmer 5 min; serve on hot toast.
LITTLE NECK CLAMS
Little neck clams are served raw on half shell; the same as oysters on
half shell.
CLAM BROTH
Wash and drain clams; steam till shells open easily; save juice that
comes with opening and add enough water to make 1 qt; with a pair of
scissors trim off soft part of clam and reserve to serve with the
broth; chop tough portion a little and simmer 15 min in broth; strain
and add pepper and salt if needed and serve in very small bouillon
cups; send reserved portion to table with melted butter and lemon juice
poured over them.
STEAMED CLAMS
Clams for steaming should be bought alive in the shell; wash clams
thoroughly with scrubbing brush, changing water several times; place
in large kettle, allowing ½ c hot water to 4 qt clams; cover closely;
steam until shells partially open; be careful that they are not
overdone; serve with individual dishes of melted butter; some prefer a
few drops of lemon juice or vinegar added to butter.
ROASTED CLAMS
Roasted clams are served at clam bakes. Clams are washed in sea water,
placed on stones which have been previously heated, covered with
seaweed, and then a canvas covering; when done prepared and served the
same as steamed clams.
CRABS
Crabs are in season during summer months; like lobsters, are purchased
alive, put in hot water and boiled the same way; soft shelled crabs are
hard shelled crabs shedding their shells.
BROILED CRABS
Prepare as above; cook in db for 10 min; serve with melted butter and
lemon juice poured over.
DEVILED CRABS
1 doz crabs, ½ c butter, ½ tsp mustard, 1 tsp salt, few grains
cayenne, bread crumbs.
Put meat in bowl and mix with it an equal quantity of fine bread
crumbs; cream butter; add seasonings and stir, a little at a time;
mixed crabs and crumbs; fill crab shells with mixture; sprinkle
buttered bread crumbs over top; brown quickly in hot oven.
SOFT SHELLED CRABS
Lift each point of back shell and remove spongy substance found beneath
it, taking care to scrape and cut away every bit; turn crab on its back
and remove semicircular piece of dark, soft shell called “apron” or
“flap” and more of the same spongy substance lying under it; wash in
cold water and dry carefully on a towel; season with salt and pepper;
dip in egg and roll in crumbs; fry 3 min in hot fat; putting in 2 at
a time, as they should be ice cold when prepared; serve with tartare
sauce.
CRAB A LA NEWBERG
½ c evaporated milk, diluted with ½ c water, 2 tbp butter, 2 tbp
flour, ¼ tsp salt, ⅛ tsp paprika, 2 c crabmeat, 2 hard-cooked
eggs.
Scald diluted milk; melt butter in frying pan; sift in flour, stir
until smooth; add hot diluted milk; cook sauce over boiling water 10
min; add seasonings and crab meat; serve at once on toasted bread or
crackers; garnish with hard-cooked eggs.
FROGS’ HIND LEGS
Trim and clean; sprinkle with salt and pepper; dip in crumbs, egg and
crumbs again; fry 3 min in deep fat; drain and serve on buttered toast
or crackers.
LOBSTER
Lobster should be perfectly fresh; one test of freshness is to draw
back the tail, if it springs into position again it is safe to think
the fish is good; plunge lobsters into boiling water enough to cover,
and continue boiling them until they are done; between 10 or 20 min,
depending on size. Too much cooking toughens lobster and destroys the
fine delicate flavor of the meat.
STEWED LOBSTER
Take meat of 2 medium lobsters; cut in dice; season with salt as
needed; ½ tsp cayenne and ½ lemon; make a white sauce; add another tbp
butter and the seasoned lobster; let it simmer 10 min and serve hot.
LOBSTER A LA NEWBERG
2 small lobsters, 2 c cream, 4 tbp butter, 2 tbp wine, yolks of 4
eggs, 1 tsp salt, few grains cayenne, few grains mace.
Cut lobster meat in small pieces; cook slowly in butter for 5 min; add
seasonings, wine, and simmer 5 min longer; combine cream with beaten
yolks and pour slowly into cooking mixture; stir constantly for 1½ min.
LOBSTER SOUFFLE
2 lb lobster, 3 tbp mayonnaise, 1 c aspic jelly, ½ c tomato
sauce, ½ tsp vinegar.
Cut lobster into small pieces; put bands of writing paper, about
2″ high, around as many ramequin cases as you wish to serve; beat
mayonnaise, aspic jelly and tomato sauce together until they begin to
look white; stir in the pieces of lobster; add vinegar; fill ramequin
cases and put away to stiffen in a very cold place; when set, take off
papers carefully; garnish with pounded coral or browned crumbs.
FISH
Fish makes an agreeable change in the usual routine of meat. It is less
stimulating and nourishing than meat, but easier to digest. To obtain
the greatest value and flavor from fish it should be eaten fresh and
in season. Fish appears on the market fresh and preserved by freezing,
canning, salting and smoking. It decomposes readily, so care must be
taken to see that it is perfectly fresh. Cold-storage fish should never
be purchased unless frozen solid and fully enclosed in a jacket of ice.
Do not put frozen fish in water, but let it thaw out and use it as soon
as possible.
White fleshed fish is more easily digested than red fleshed fish. Very
large fish are better when boiled or steamed; medium-sized ones should
be baked or split and broiled; small ones fried. Red fleshed fish is
richer in fat and should not be fried. To determine freshness of fish,
examine the flesh to see that it is firm; also see that there is bright
blood, and that the eyes are bright, shiny and bulgy; the gills a
bright, clear red; the scales shiny.
When boiling white fish add a little vinegar or lemon juice to the
water to keep the flesh white and firm. Narrow strips of muslin greased
with fat and put across the bottom of the pan in which fish is to be
baked, make it easy to remove the fish from pan without breaking. The
ends of the muslin must extend beyond the fish. When fish comes from
market remove from paper, and if it has not been cleaned, clean it at
once; wash, unless it is frozen fish, and salt slightly; place in a
covered dish (a tin lard pail will be found useful for this purpose)
and place in a part of the refrigerator so that the odor cannot be
carried to other foods.
A boned fish may be rolled up compactly from tail to head, and boiled,
steamed or baked. Large fish may be cut crosswise into steak. Salt fish
should be soaked, at least over night, in clean soft water, skin side
up; and most salt and pickled fish are improved by changing water,
and soaking 6 hr longer. Wash all salt fish thoroughly in warm water
before soaking.
All fish for boiling should be wrapped in a cloth kept for the purpose,
and plunged into boiling water, except salmon, which should be put into
lukewarm water to preserve the color, and mackerel and bluefish, which
should be put on in cold water. Fish weighing 2 lb should be cooked
gently about 20 min after water actually boils, and 6 min for each
additional pound. Do not boil fish rapidly, as it breaks the flakes
before the inside is done. Many prefer to steam fish, because steaming
takes less from their nutritive qualities, but it requires more time.
FISH FILLETS
Fish fillets are the flesh of vertebrate fish separated from bone and
cut into large or small pieces.
FISH FORCEMEAT
Is flesh of fish finely chopped and pressed through a fine sieve before
being cooked.
FISH STOCK
Is the seasoned liquid in which fish has been cooked.
GARNISHINGS FOR FISH
Parsley, lemon slices, lemon baskets, lemon slices, sprinkled with
finely chopped parsley, chopped red or green pepper, potato balls,
olives, hard-cooked eggs, capers, and pickles cut lengthwise and spread
to resemble a fan, mashed potato and mushrooms, cucumbers and tomatoes,
maitre d’hotel butter and watercress.
=To Clean Fish=: Remove scales by scraping with dull knife from tail
toward head. Head and tail may be left on or removed according to
manner of cooking. Small fish to be served whole have the entrails
removed by opening under gills and pressing out contents with thumb
and finger. Larger fish are split half-way down the belly and insides
scraped and washed with salt water after it is empty. Wipe fish inside
and out with a cloth wrung out of cold salted water, then wipe with a
dry clean cloth.
=To Skin a Fish=: First remove fins along back and cut off a narrow
strip of skin the entire length of back. Loosen skin over bony part of
gills and slowly work toward tail. Do same on the other side.
=To Bone a Fish=: Clean fish and remove head; beginning at tail, run
sharp knife close to the backbone, cutting meat away on one side and
working toward the head. Turn and repeat on the other side.
BOILED FISH
Clean fish according to directions; wipe carefully and rub with salt;
wrap in piece of cheesecloth to hold fish together and prevent scum
from adhering to fish. Place it in kettle half filled with boiling
water; cook slowly, allowing 20 min to the pound. A long fish kettle
with a rack is useful. A wire basket in a kettle may be substituted;
the fish coiled about in the basket. Water in which fish cooks should
have salt and vinegar or lemon juice added; 2 tsp of salt and 1 of
vinegar to a quart of water. The salt gives flavor; the vinegar or
lemon juice keeps flesh white. Fish is cooked when flesh is firm and
separates easily from bone. Take from water and remove cheesecloth;
garnish with parsley and slices of lemon.
STEAMED FISH
Clean carefully, but without removing head or fins; rub inside and out
with salt and pepper and lemon juice; laying slices of onion inside if
liked; lay on buttered paper and steam till flesh falls easily from
bones; lay on folded napkin; garnish with lemon and parsley; serve with
Hollandaise sauce.
=To Broil Fish=: Cod, haddock, bluefish and mackerel are split down
the back and broiled whole, removing head and tail or not, as desired.
Salmon, chicken halibut and swordfish are cut in inch slices for
broiling. Smelts and other small fish are broiled whole, without
splitting. Clean and wipe fish as dry as possible; sprinkle with salt
and pepper; place in well-greased wire broiler; slices of fish should
be turned often while broiling; whole fish should be first broiled on
flesh side, then turned and broiled on skin side just long enough to
make skin brown and crisp; to remove from broiler, loosen fish on one
side, turn and loosen on other side; otherwise flesh will cling to
broiler; slip from broiler to hot platter.
FRIED FISH
Clean fish and wipe as dry as possible; sprinkle with salt and pepper;
dip in flour, egg and crumbs and fry in deep fat; 6 min is sufficient
for any but large pieces; drain dry on paper; serve on folded napkin;
fry parsley that is to garnish dish, taking care to have it crisp
without changing its color.
=To Bake Fish=: Clean and bake on a greased fish sheet placed in
dripping pan. If fish sheet is not at hand, place strips of cotton
cloth under fish, by which it may be lifted from pan.
PANNED FISH
This method is used for small fish or fish that can be cut in slices.
Have fish well cleaned, seasoned with salt and pepper and dredged with
a little flour or rolled in cornmeal. Fry until a golden brown.
=To Saute Fish=: Prepare as for frying; cook in frying pan with small
amount of fat, or dip in cornmeal. Cod steak and smelts are often
cooked in this way.
BROILED SALMON STEAK
Moisten slices of salmon with French dressing; let stand for 1 hr; put
in broiler and broil on both sides; brush while cooking with 1 tbp
melted fat; using a little at a time; cook 12 to 15 min; remove to hot
platter; season with salt, pepper and juice of ½ lemon and sprinkle
with 1 tbp chopped parsley; serve with Bearnaise sauce.
SHRIMP AND RICE
2 c cooked shrimp, cut in pieces, 2 c cooked rice, 2 tbp chopped
parsley, ⅛ tsp pepper, few grains cayenne, 2 c medium white
sauce, ½ c dried bread crumbs.
Mix shrimps, rice, parsley, pepper, cayenne and white sauce together;
pour in greased baking dish; sprinkle with crumbs; bake in hot oven 25
min, or until crumbs are brown.
FILLET OF SOLE
1½ lb fillet of flounder, ¾ c fine bread crumbs, 1 egg, 1 tbp
water, salt and pepper.
Wipe fillets with damp cloth; sprinkle with salt and pepper; dip in
crumbs, then in slightly beaten egg diluted with water and again in
crumbs; cook in a small amount of fat in frying pan 10 min, or until
brown on both sides; garnish with lemon and parsley and serve with
Tartare sauce.
FISH CROQUETTES
2 c cold cooked fish, salt and pepper, lemon juice and onion
juice, 1 c croquette sauce, 1 tbp chopped parsley.
Mix all ingredients; add more lemon juice if needed; shape; dip in
crumbs, egg and crumbs; fry in deep fat. One c tomato may substituted
for 1 c milk or stock in croquette sauce.
SAUCE FOR CROQUETTES
3 tbp butter, 5 tbp flour, 1 c stock or milk, salt and pepper,
celery salt, lemon juice, few drops onion juice.
Melt butter; add flour, seasonings and milk; cook until thick; this
amount sufficient to thicken 2 c fish or meat. It may be varied by
adding 2 egg yolks or 1 egg.
RICE-SALMON CROQUETTES
1 c cooked rice, 1 c salmon or other fish, 1 tbp minced parsley,
1 c thick white sauce, salt and pepper.
Combine; form into croquettes; dip in egg and crumbs and brown in oven.
CORNMEAL FISH CAKES
2 c cornmeal mush, 1 c shredded fish, 2 tbp chopped onions, 1 tbp
chopped parsley, ½ tsp salt.
Shape in small cakes; brown in small amount of fat or in oven.
FISH WITH GREEN PEPPERS
1¾ c cold cooked fish, 1 c white sauce, ½ small green pepper, ½
slice onion or flavor to taste, salt and pepper.
Cut a slice from stem end of pepper; remove every seed and parboil
peppers 15 min; make white sauce with 1 c milk, 2 tbp butter, 2 tbp
flour, bit of bay leaf, sprig of parsley, salt and pepper to taste;
scalding milk with parsley and bay leaf; cook onion finely chopped in
butter 3 min; add flour when well mingled, milk, salt and pepper; when
thickened and smooth add fish broken into flakes and green peppers
cut into narrow strips; heat thoroughly, and serve with brown bread
sandwiches.
DELMONICO FINNAN HADDIE
Cut fish in strips; there should be 1 c; put in baking pan, cover
with cold water, and allow water to heat to boiling point; let
stand; keeping water below boiling point for 25 min; drain and rinse
thoroughly; separate fish into flakes; add ½ c heavy cream and 4
hard-boiled eggs thinly sliced; season with cayenne; add 1 tbp butter;
sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.
STUFFED BAKED FISH
Bluefish, cod, haddock or halibut may be stuffed and baked whole;
select a fish weighing from 3 to 3½ lb.; clean and wipe fish; stuff
with dressing made as follows:
1 c bread crumbs, ⅓ c milk, tbp fat, 1 tbp parsley or onion
chopped fine.
Salt and pepper to taste; sew fish together and rub with salt; place
on narrow strips of cloth in dripping pan and bake in hot oven 35 to
40 min; basting often with 1 tbp fat melted in hot water; when done,
remove cloth and stitches and serve with drawn butter sauce.
SALMON PUFFS
Remove skin and bones from 1 lb can salmon; chop very fine; add 1 tbp
melted fat, ½ c bread crumbs, 3 well beaten eggs, 1 tbp lemon juice,
pinch of salt and dash of pepper; pack in custard cups or muffin tins;
bake ½ hr; serve with white sauce.
BAKED FINNAN HADDIE
Put fish in dripping pan, surrounded with milk and water in equal
proportions; place where it will heat slowly; let stand 25 min; pour
off liquid; spread with butter and bake 25 min.
BROILED FINNAN HADDIE
Broil in greased broiler until brown on both sides; remove to pan and
cover with hot water; let stand 10 min; drain and place on platter;
spread with butter, and sprinkle with pepper.
ESCALLOPED FINNAN HADDIE
1 c flaked finnan haddie or other smoked fish, 2 hard-boiled
eggs, chopped, 1 c milk, ⅓ c bread crumbs, 2 tbp fat, 2 tbp
flour, salt and pepper.
Make white sauce from fat, flour, salt, pepper and milk; place in
baking dish alternate layers of fish and chopped egg; pour white sauce
over; cover with crumbs; brown well in oven.
MOULDED FISH
Remove skin and bones from a piece of halibut weighing 1 lb.; chop fish
fine and force through sieve; there should be 1⅓ c; pound well, adding
gradually whites 2 eggs; add 1¼ c heavy cream, salt, pepper and cayenne
to taste; turn into buttered fish mould; cover with buttered paper; set
in pan of hot water, and bake until fish is firm; turn on platter and
surround with
=Normandy Sauce=: Cook skin and bones of fish with 3 slices carrot, 1
slice onion, sprig of parsley, bit of bay leaf, ¼ tsp peppercorns, and
2 c cold water, 30 min, and strain; there should be 1 c; melt 2 tbp
butter; add 3 tbp flour, fish stock, ⅓ c heavy cream; bring to boiling
point and add yolks 2 eggs; season with salt, pepper, cayenne and 1 tbp
lemon juice.
MEXICAN CODFISH
Pick over salt codfish and separate in small pieces; there should be
⅔ c; cover with lukewarm water; soak until soft, and drain; cut 4
medium-sized cold boiled potatoes in slices; arrange alternate layers
of potatoes and fish in buttered baking dish; sprinkle with salt and
pepper; cover with 1½ canned pimientos cut in strips; repeat; pour over
1 c tomato sauce; cover with buttered cracker crumbs and bake until
crumbs are brown.
CREAMED FISH
¼ c butter, 2½ tbp flour, 2 c milk, yolks 4 hard-boiled eggs, 1
tsp Anchovy sauce, 2 c cold boiled flaked fish.
Make a sauce of butter, flour and milk; mash yolk of eggs and mix with
Anchovy sauce; add to sauce; then add fish; serve as soon as heated on
pieces of toasted bread.
DROPPED FISH BALLS
1 c salt cod, 2 c diced potatoes, 1 egg, 1 tsp butter, few grains
pepper.
Wash fish in cold water and flake in fine pieces; cook fish and
potatoes together in boiling water until potatoes are done; drain and
mash; add butter, pepper and beaten egg; beat all together thoroughly;
have fat in frying kettle smoking hot; drop mixture by spoonfuls into
fat; fry a golden brown; drain on soft paper. It is best to first dip
spoon in fat; serve with tomato sauce and garnish with parsley.
BROILED SHAD
Wash; remove head and tail from shad; clean and split down the back;
remove backbone with as many other bones as possible; place skin side
down on greased broiler; spread with melted fat, and sprinkle with salt
and pepper; broil 20 to 25 min; depending on size of fish; remove to
hot platter; garnish with watercress and slices of lemon; serve at once.
SHAD ROE
Wash and dry roe, using care not to break skin; sprinkle with salt,
pepper and flour; melt 2 tbp fat in frying pan; when hot, put in roe
and cook slowly until brown on one side; turn and brown on other side.
A cover may be put over frying pan to keep fat from spattering; cook
from 20 to 30 min; garnish with lemon and parsley and serve very hot
with crisp bacon.
SAUTEED BUTTERFISH
Wipe fish with damp cloth; sprinkle with salt, pepper and flour; cook
in small amount of fat in frying pan 8 to 10 min, or until brown on
both sides; sprinkle with chopped parsley and juice of ½ lemon; garnish
with watercress and serve with slices of lemon.
BOILED CODFISH
1 tbp fat, 1 stalk celery, 1 small onion, 1 small carrot, 1 sprig
parsley, 2 qt water, ½ bay leaf, 1 tbp vinegar, 1 tsp salt, ⅛ tsp
pepper, 2½ lb codfish, all chopped fine.
Melt fat; add celery, onion, carrot and parsley; cook 2 min, stirring
frequently; add water, bay leaf, vinegar, salt and pepper; bring to
boiling point; wrap fish in cheesecloth; drop into boiling water;
reduce heat and simmer 30 min; remove cheesecloth from fish and serve
on hot platter garnished with parsley; serve with egg sauce.
CREAMED CODFISH
3 c cooked cod, flaked, 2 c medium white sauce, 2 tbp chopped
parsley, 1 tbp chopped pimento.
Heat flaked fish in white sauce; add parsley and pimento and more
seasoning if necessary; serve on hot toast with baked potatoes.
SAUTEED CODFISH
Remove skin and backbone; cut fish in square pieces; season with salt
and pepper and roll in fine cornmeal or cracker crumbs; cook in a small
amount of fat in frying pan 8 to 10 min, or until brown on both sides;
drain on paper and serve with tartare sauce.
SPICED SALMON
Remove fish from 1 can salmon; rinse thoroughly with hot water and
remove skin and bones; put 1 c vinegar in saucepan and add 1 tsp whole
cloves, ½ tsp allspice berries, 8 peppercorns, and ¼ tsp salt; bring
to boiling point; pour over fish; cover, and let stand 2 hr; drain and
separate into flakes.
FISH HASH
Take equal parts of cold flaked fish and cold boiled potatoes finely
chopped; season with salt and pepper; fry out fat salt pork; remove
scraps; leaving enough fat in pan to moisten fish and potatoes; put
in fish and potatoes; stir until heated; cook until well browned
underneath; fold and turn like an omelet.
SPANISH MACKEREL
Clean and wipe fish; cut down the belly; remove bone; dry well; season
with salt and pepper; brush over with oil and broil slowly 25 min;
remove to hot dish and serve with melted butter.
BROOK TROUT