NO TRESSPASSING OR HUNTING

The fact that "tresspassing" was misspelled made the sign a trifle less

awesome and pompous than it had seemed at first glance, but I brought

the car to a complete stop and pondered for a while.

Well, I wasn't "introducing" any liquor (from what I'd heard, most

Indians didn't need an introduction) but to go into the reservation

would be trespassing, I guessed. Still, the gateway was open and white

people, I knew, drove through it frequently. Maybe by "tresspassing" in

this case, they simply meant getting out of the car and going off the

road.

Anyway, I had looked forward to this a long time, and, having come this

far, I wasn't going to let a misspelled sign stop me.

I drove over the cow guard, my heart bumping as hard as the car.

Strangely enough, the character of the land inside the reservation

didn't change; it was the same as it was everywhere else, dry, flat

until it began to roll up toward the mountains, covered with bristly

bushes and a few stunted trees.

A peculiar lump beside the road far ahead turned out to be a fat brown

woman sitting huddled inside a soiled shawl. An Indian! In her native

habitat! I put on the brake, rolled down the window and called, "Want a

ride?"

My temerity amazed me. This would be something interesting to tell

people about, though. I was glad I had followed my impulse to stop,

because if I had taken time to think it over I would probably never

have done it.

The woman's bright dark eyes slid over me and the car in amazement.

Afraid that this exotic prize would escape me, I pushed open the car

door on her side and smiled invitingly.

After a moment of contemplation, she wrapped the dingy shawl about her

broad shoulders more tightly against the wind, struggled to her feet

and lumbered toward the car. She sat beside me, her thighs under the

cheap cotton dress spreading so that the car seat between me and the

right hand door was completely smothered in soft fat flesh. I lowered

the window on my side before I started the car.

I glanced at the Indian woman as I pressed on the starter. Her face was

round and greasy. Her eyes were like shiny black buttons, and her

straight black hair was stringy. Her full, untinted lips did not move

in response to my smile.

The road, which deteriorated rapidly from pavement to dirt once I was

inside the reservation, led past occasional brown shacks that seemed

made of weary old boards leaning against each other for support. A few

of the houses, though, were made of stone, and fairly attractive. No

doubt the chief and his relatives lived in these ... if the Indians

still had chiefs. I recalled what the laundry truck driver had said

about the Indians--that those who wanted to collect money from the

government had to live on the reservation in order to be entitled to

it, and that those who were willing to forfeit their right to the money

could live away from the reservation and engage in any type of work

they chose.

Livestock of various kinds and sizes meandered about most of the

dwelling places. Some of the horses were beautiful, graceful brown

creatures with jet black manes and tails that tossed in the wind. There

were squat, heavy set cattle with broad heads and broad bodies. Except

for the fact that they each displayed a few unmistakable signs of

femininity, I would have sworn that they were all bulls.

"You live around here?" I asked, with a circling sweep of my hand,

turning toward my obese passenger.

The black button eyes stared at me, not with hostility, but obviously

without any particular liking for me.

The dirt road curved slowly back toward the highway. There were

innumerable bumpy little roads leading off the dirt road toward

primitive looking parts of the lower mountains, but I was afraid to

follow them. I didn't want to get too completely into Indian territory!

When we came to a fence broken only by an open gateway across the road,

I stopped the car and leaned across the Indian woman, opening the door.

"You'd better get out here," I said.

She didn't move.

"Listen, I don't dare to take you out of the reservation. It might be a

violation of the Mann act, or something. Goodbye," I said suggestively.

The fat squaw rolled out of the car, and stood staring at me, her

glittering eyes speculative as I started the car.

I bumped across the cow guard, which was a twin to the one I had

crossed when I entered the reservation, and glanced into the mirror to

see what she was doing. As the dust from the tires settled I saw her

squatting beside the road, adjusting her filthy shawl as it whipped in

the wind, and settling herself comfortably.

I drove along the stretch of pavement that led to the highway with a

vague sense of disappointment.

I hadn't expected to find a bunch of Indians in full war dress, yelling

and whooping; I hadn't expected to see any venerable,

feather-headdressed chiefs smoking long pipes of peace; and I certainly

hadn't expected to be scalped. And yet I left the reservation with a

vague sense of disappointment.

I have always worn my hair, which is quite thick, at shoulder-length,

curly and with a bunch of little curls at the top. It used to be a

fairly attractive and flattering style, but Banning's whirling wind has

played havoc with it. I can spend half an hour combing it, smoothing it

and adjusting the brown curls; then, after walking across the driveways

to one of the cabins, I look as though I not only hadn't combed it for

several days, but had lost a piece of thread in it and had allowed the

children to search thoroughly for it for several hours. My hair style

became what a fashion magazine might charitably christen a "windblown

long bob." Whenever I brave the blasts that sweep across the open

fields behind the motel, where I hang up clothes on washday, I wear a

snugly tied bandana--but I can seldom get it tied so securely that the

wind doesn't whip it off several times.

Strangely enough, other Banning women have neat, precisely waved hair

which is seldom untidy or out of place. That is something I have never

been able to figure out.

In the wintertime, it's people who swarm over Banning and the

surrounding vicinities; in the summer, it's bugs. Every imaginable kind

of bug spends the summer in Banning; bugs with wings, without wings,

with and without antennae, and some with strange appendages whose uses,

if any, seem hazy to the bugs themselves. Besides the common black

widows, which are so plentiful that people simply ignore them, there

are peculiar worms with large, mischievous eyes; there are beetles

equipped with hard shiny hoods and galoshes, in case of rain; there are

grasshoppers whose heads, instead of being in the place customary for

grasshoppers' heads, pivot at the end of long, sticklike necks.

Before we came to Banning, and for a short time after our arrival, I

wore open-toed sandals. But an uneasy knowledge of the desert's strange

fauna, coupled with the loose gravel, the stickers rampant in the

weeds, and the huge flesh-hungry black ants, to whom the presence of

stockings were merely a snickerprovoking challenge, soon converted me

to oxfords--and, if I hadn't been afraid of seeming too eccentric, I

would have worn hip-length boots.

Banning has such hot summers, and such a dry, hot wind blowing

continually off the desert, that I, like practically every other woman

under seventy who weighs less than three hundred pounds, wear shorts.

To this, Grant sometimes pretends to attribute our success.

"Yep, half of our customers just come in here because they see you

running around in shorts," he says.

He can be very sweet at times, particularly when he has to go downtown

and wants me to sort and count the laundry, or when he is hungry for a

home made apple pie. One day--I believe it was a helping hand with some

weed-pulling that he wanted--he had complimented me until I was

beginning to believe I was rather a femme fatale in shorts. He had gone

into the house to make a phone call, and I continued pulling weeds from

around the geraniums in the little island under our big neon sign.

Suddenly I noticed a shiny car going past on the highway very slowly.

It was full of well-dressed, distinguished looking men who were staring

in my direction with absorbed interest. I pretended not to notice, and

went on with my weed-pulling. But I was pleased. Maybe I wasn't so bad

after all!

The car turned around in the highway, about fifty feet past our place,

and cruised slowly by again. I was careful to stoop as gracefully as

possible when I lunged for the weeds, and I tucked a geranium, that I

had broken off by mistake, into my hair.

The car went more and more slowly, and finally it stopped right in

front of the island. I stood up and went closer to the car, smiling

graciously. I pretended to think the men wanted to rent a cabin.

The man in the front seat nearest the window cleared his throat,

grinned sheepishly, and said:

"Say, ma'am, I wonder if you could tell us what kind of trees those

are, in that row down the middle of your place? We've been having a

little argument about it."

My smile faded. I was furious. "They're Chinese elms!" I snapped, and I

stomped away.

It was that same night that Grant, leaving for the postoffice, told me

to be sure to get at least three customers while he was gone.

"Don't worry," I said sarcastically, "I'll just sit out here on the

curb around the lawn where they can see me. I'm so beautiful they won't

be able to resist driving in. If they try to escape I'll lure them

right in."

I was standing idly at the office door about twenty minutes later when

I saw our car, a blue sedan, slow down as Grant waited for traffic to

clear so that he could make the left hand turn into our place. I smiled

suddenly. I'd show him what I meant by luring them right in.

Pretending to assume that he was a prospective customer, I stepped out

in full view and made elaborate motions of adjusting my hair, rolling

my eyes, and making come-hither gestures with my head. I thrust out one

leg and ran my hands over it as though I were pulling up a sheer

stocking; I smiled in an over-exaggerated way that would have, I felt,

put to shame any of the old time movie vamps. My legs were in a coy

Betty Grable pose, and as Grant pulled into the driveway I repeated my

gestures of eye-rolling and of motioning seductively with tosses of my

head.

"You got a cabin for four people?" asked a woman sitting in the front

seat. Why, who--(I would have thought whom, but I was too excited)--had

Grant brought home with him? I looked at the man behind the steering

wheel questioningly. It wasn't Grant.

The car--well, obviously, ours wasn't the only blue sedan of that

particular make and age.

"A--a cabin?" I asked finally. "Sure, of course. Would you--uh--like to

look at it?"

Two half-grown boys, in the back seat, were staring at me pop-eyed,

their mouths half open.

I'll never forget their expressions, or my own humiliation.

My friend from the Sylvan motel, Mrs. Barkin, stopped in a few days

later to give me a library book she wanted me to read, and she laughed

heartily when I told her about my experience. She had managed a motel

in Riverside, I knew, before she came to Banning after the death of her

husband, and when she was through laughing I brought up the subject of

motel cabins being rented by the hour instead of by the night.

"Short stops?" she said. "Oh, yeah, we used to get lots of 'em, when we

were in Riverside. You get that in any big city, yeah. Lots of money in

it too if you have a good location for it--you can rent each cabin

several times a night. Only thing is you have to do a lot of work

cleaning cabins in the night then, yeah, that is if you're gonna rent

'em again."

Mrs. Barkin was a very short, squat woman with broad hips and enormous

arms. Her fat legs, which she had managed to cross, looked

uncomfortable. There was a faintly shabby air about her wilted blue

organdy dress.

"Ten minute quickies, my hubby called 'em," she giggled. "Yeah, we got

lots of 'em. Yeah, the good old days. We don't get many of 'em here. I

remember one fella used to come there--it was during the war, and he

worked swing shift--every night after work, right after midnight, yeah,

he'd come. Five nights a week. Every night he had a different girl with

him, too. You know, he--" Mrs. Barkin went off into spasms of

laughter--"he came to my hubby one time and says, 'Say, don't I get a

weekly rate here?' Yeah, he came so often he wanted a weekly rate!"

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