An encampment was ordered for the Russian troops on the hills, on the

Asiatic side, above Unkiar Skelessi,[59] famous afterwards for the

treaty concluded there before their departure; but in the country,

more noted for the delightful valley of the same name to which it is

the landing-place. Mouravieff, the commander-in-chief of the army, was

a bluff, uncouth Russian, who seemed indifferent to intercourse with

strangers, and concerned only with his military duties, taking notice

of no one but to give his orders and receive visitors of rank with a

stiff, formal salute. He scarce felt at ease, more than his soldiers,

as to what part they might have to act, and how the inhabitants would

endure their presence. Strict precautions were taken to keep the men

within their lines, placed where not a hut or human being was to be

seen in their immediate neighbourhood; and the ships in sight, not two

miles distant, with which they could communicate. The Turks, however,

suppressed their indignation, submitting to circumstances which they

could not control, and considering that the strangers had come by the

authority of their Sultan. Their national character, at times furious

and ungovernable on sudden excitement, is tractable under command, and

guided by calm discretion when they have time for reflection; and there

is, perhaps, scarcely an instance of a people entertaining such a rooted

animosity, and restraining it so completely, when thus placed in contact

with the objects of their hate.

The heights soon exhibited a novel and picturesque appearance, dotted

over by the Russian encampment; and some regiments of Turkish guards,

with their circular and blue tents, according to national usage, shortly

after took their quarters a little below, in unwonted fraternity. The

representatives of the other great powers, anxious to see the Sultan’s

new allies dismissed as quickly as possible, made an arrangement in a few

weeks to that effect. It was proposed by the French Ambassador, supported

by the Austrian, under the guarantee of the former, that Mehemet Ali

should accept the terms. Our minister, who was only _ad interim_, of

minor rank, and without instructions, also assisting in promoting a

settlement. The compact, however, was rejected by Mehemet Ali, and

disapproved of by the French government; and although the basis was

far more favourable to the Porte than that of the Convention of Kutaya

afterwards concluded, as Adana and Tarsus were reserved, and Syria only

ceded to the Egyptian chieftain, it was fortunate for the Sultan that

the sailing of the expedition, if ever seriously intended at the time,

did not then take place. A few days before that fixed for the purpose,

news arrived of an event which caused its indefinite postponement, and

superseded all diplomatic combinations.

Smyrna, the second city in Turkey, with a population of 120,000

inhabitants, had withdrawn from its allegiance to the Porte, and under

circumstances, notwithstanding the gravity of the change, perfectly

ridiculous. Ibrahim’s detached parties had already assumed the command

of Magnesia, another city, thirty miles distant; and from thence, three

individuals, the bearers of a pretended letter, with his sanction,

presented themselves to the Governor of Smyrna, requiring him to abdicate

in favour of a successor appointed by their Chief. The Egyptian General,

who had agreed to an armistice until an answer should be received from

his father to the recent proposals, disavowed having sent the summons

when called on for an explanation. It had, however, been immediately

obeyed by the notables of Smyrna, who, when consulted on the occasion,

judged submission to be the most prudent course; and an intriguing

personage of their own body, named Buladauli, who contrived the plot,

was, without a dissentient voice, installed in the Government, like

Sancho Panza in that of Barrataria. The customs and other branches of

the revenue, of which he took possession, showed afterwards by the empty

state of the money chests, deep traces of his ten days’ administration,

for it lasted no longer. As soon as the matter came to be understood,

orders were despatched by the Porte to the legitimate Governor to

resume his functions. On the firman to that effect being read, the

foreign Consuls, who, without instruction, had judiciously declined to

acknowledge the intruder, again hoisted their flags, his mock lordship

decamped, and in the brief space mentioned, a second revolution took

place as tranquilly as the first. No violence or disorder occurred on

either occasion; and the principals in the contrivance having sought

Ibrahim’s protection, no other individual suffered, either at that time,

or since, the slightest molestation for having been its dupes. But the

example must have been dangerous, perhaps contagious, at the capital, on

the first shock, had the Sultan possessed no foreign support. It was at

the option of England to have rendered him the service he then received

from another power; and we may regret to this day that our Government

did not seize the opportunity of securing the lasting advantage to both

countries to which it would have led.

Further reinforcements for the fleet and army next followed from Russia,

accompanied by Count Orloff, as Ambassador Extraordinary, and invested

with the supreme command by sea and land. Shortly before, in March, Lord

Ponsonby arrived to fill his post, and, with his political associate

and colleague, Admiral Roussin, the French Ambassador, saw with great

dissatisfaction this increase of strength, and appearance of a prolonged

sojourn. It was remarked that the Russian ships, in conveying the new

troops to the camp, passed under their Excellencies’ windows at Therapia,

making a sweep, as if for the purpose, before proceeding to the opposite

side. A corvette, armed _en flute_, with her decks crowded, and a band

playing, was particularly conspicuous in paying this compliment; one

of the most unwelcome serenades to which Lord Ponsonby, a thorough

anti-Russian in politics, had probably ever been treated.

From the first entrance of the squadron, there had been abundant firing

of salutes for distinguished visitors; and in mutual courtesy between the

flags of Russia and the Porte, every national anniversary receiving from

both the like honours. But now began the full roar of cannon, till scarce

an hour elapsed but the whole line of the channel re-echoed with the

sound, and as much powder was expended as might have sufficed to decide

the fate of the empire in battle. When the fine season set in, with

calm, cloudless nights, the tones of the Russian sentinel’s challenge,

mellowed in traversing the water to the European shore, fell on the ear

in the stillness with an effect not easy to describe. Again, on the

morrow, recommenced the continuous discharge of artillery from the ships

and forts, as the Sultan, or other high personages, passed in state in

their visits to the military stations. The stirring news and discussions

of the day more seriously occupied the public mind amidst this joyous

show of ceremony and cordiality between the Porte and its allies, since

it was yet uncertain how the event might terminate for the country, and

with whom the sovereignty would remain. From their warlike attitude on

the hills, where they were making additional entrenchments and depôts,

it appeared that the danger for which the Russians had been summoned was

not past, or that they were in no haste to depart. Suspicions were not

wanting that the temptation to keep possession was too strong for them

to resist. But reserve and distrust gradually gave way to more placid

feelings and cheerful prospects; and _fêtes_ and spectacles assumed their

wonted gaiety. Some of the foreign ministers, who had hitherto declined

visiting the camp, attended a grand review, where it was announced that

the Sultan was to be present; and the whole diplomatic corps, invited by

his special desire, came in full pomp to meet his Highness.

He was received with due honours on landing by Count Orloff, and after

consulting his pleasure, aides-de-camp were sent off at full gallop to

form the troops immediately under arms, till then remaining at ease near

their posts. They were placed under the Sultan’s command for the day,

the General-in-chief acting as his adjutant, and repeating the orders

for the different manœuvres, after they had been first submitted to his

approbation. The Sultan, equipped in a splendid military cloak, the

collar ornamented with diamonds, a surtout, light pantaloons, boots,

with massive gold spurs, and a red fur cap, rode through the field on

a noble Arab charger with the ardour of an accomplished horseman, and

the air of a soldier, attended by Orloff and a numerous staff. All the

expertness of Russian tactics was displayed, and men and officers decked

in their best attire; the soldiers, having their mustachoes stiffened

with grease, and their chests thickly padded. The evolutions, performed

with due precision, presented nothing remarkable, with the exception

of one manœuvre, in which two battalions crossed each other’s ranks by

companies, each file spreading a little for the purpose, and the first

battalion occupying the ground from which the former retired. A Russian

officer, standing by, observed, that this manœuvre, which the Turks did

not comprehend, had cost them dear in battle. It is, however, known in

our army, and allows any corps which may be weakened or harassed in

action, or whose services might be more effective at some other point,

to be relieved by an almost instantaneous change, scarce requiring any

additional space, and in no degree deranging the order of the line in

bringing up the reserves.

The extent of the valley afforded more than ample room for the exercises,

and an immense concourse of spectators assembled, of both sexes and of

every nation. The whole scene was, from the circumstances, exciting, far

beyond mere parade, for the Russian force, stated to consist of fifteen

thousand troops, appeared to have been far overrated when their camp was

emptied; and they had, moreover, brought with them but a single troop of

Cossack cavalry, and a very slender train of light artillery.

At the close of the review the Sultan received the staff and the members

of the diplomacy in an adjoining kiosk, the same in which the treaty was

afterwards signed. His position was a trying one for a sovereign, as

he stood in the midst of a foreign soldiery, whom he might consider as

his masters, having accepted their protection against his own subjects.

It was therefore expected that he would appear somewhat subdued on the

occasion,—not such, however, was his bearing; and never did he acquit

himself with more _éclat_. Count Orloff was very remarkable during

the ceremony of audience; a fearless soldier, of massive stature, and

renowned as one of the most powerful men living for muscular strength,

a noble and a courtier; and, still more, he was the generalissimo and

delegate of his Emperor, selected by him, and entrusted with unlimited

powers for this important service; but in the presence of Sultan Mahmoud

he seemed completely overcome by the commanding aspect of the Turkish

sovereign; and his looks and attitude, in tendering his homage, bespoke

that sort of submissiveness and awe which he might himself inspire in

his own humblest dependents. It is this imposing, lofty air, accompanied

by extreme energy of will, which has given to the Sultan the wonderful

ascendant he possesses over the minds of all who surround him. Those who

have been accustomed to intercourse with royalty, and contact with the

most distinguished statesmen and geniuses of their time, speak of the

Moslem monarch as the most remarkable person they have ever seen, beside

whom every other individual sinks into insignificance. A stranger meeting

him _incognito_, would be struck by his appearance, as if denoting a more

than common dignity; and at times, the expression of his countenance

will cause an impression which none other could excite. His features are

manly, though not regular, his cheeks being angular and prominent, and

his complexion is flushed, when he is in exercise, as if from vigorous

health. His person is a little above the middle size, neither spare

nor corpulent, well-proportioned except in the legs, which are bent

slightly inwards from the knee; and his whole appearance much enhanced

by a handsome jet beard, arranged and preserved with special care. In

minute attention to his person and dress he resembles George IV.; but he

is, both physically and mentally, more active than that monarch. While

flattered by the deference he inspires, and the observance of the forms

of devotedness paid to absolute sovereignty in the East, he assumes no

studious gestures, or affectation of majesty. Regality is stamped by

nature on his brow, animating every feature and every movement; and

even on that day, when surrounded by Russian bayonets, and his armies

scattered in the field by a vassal—his spirit remained unquenched—he was

“every inch a king!”

Terms had, meanwhile, been made with Ibrahim, whose army was withdrawn

from Kutuya to Syria; and the Russians, who had only waited for the

intelligence of his having retired within his own boundary, quitted the

country a few weeks after the review. During their stay, they constantly

remained twelve miles distant from Constantinople, which was not even in

sight from their position; and the precautions taken in keeping the men

to their quarters, and the placid temper of the inhabitants, prevented

any squabbles of the least consequence arising between them. Their

semi-barbarism was, however, constantly showing itself to strangers,

in some shape or other. On one occasion, during an inspection of the

troops, the Crown Prince of Bavaria, a tall slim youth, was presented

to the Sultan on the ground. As the concluding ceremony, a soldier of

each regiment advanced singly to his Imperial Highness, and gave the

history of his corps, recapitulating the actions in which it had acquired

its honorary titles. No one offered to explain; but the names of the

places had almost all reference to campaigns in Turkey or Persia, whence

the Sultan could sufficiently understand the drift of an address, not

calculated to revive in his mind any agreeable recollections. It appeared

to me that the mortification was harsh and displaced, if designed to

gratify Russian pride; or very bad taste if it were mere formality. The

artificial step and starched attitude of the soldier in this piece of

acting were highly amusing and ludicrous; not a muscle of his boorish

features changed as he delivered his set speech; after which he presented

arms, turned round, and marched off with the same automaton strut. This

rapidity was more conspicuous in a single individual than when the

men were seen _en masse_, and proved how perfectly Russian discipline

reduced them to mere living machines, guided by an instinctive impulse to

obedience, the character for which this army is justly distinguished. So

severe are the rules, and so rigidly are they observed, that several of

their sentinels perished at St. Petersburg, some years since, during an

inundation of the Neva, from remaining at their post till submerged, when

they could have saved themselves on the first rise of the waters, by a

prompt retreat, which they dared not attempt without receiving orders in

the regular routine.

One of the minor Perote Diplomatists, who had gone _en grande tenue_

to the camp at Unkiar Skelessi, had a soldier assigned to him, in

compliment, as his attendant in taking a survey. By this guide, who

could only speak Russian, not a word of which the other understood, he

was led round their quarters, obliged to listen to long unintelligible

details, till his patience became exhausted, and he made some significant

signs of a desire to depart. But he was a prisoner; for the soldier, who

had received orders to show and to explain to his charge every thing

necessary, fulfilled his instructions to the letter, and detained him

for hours, to complete his office; not sparing an item from the titles

of the colonels, and the distinctions in the colours of each regiment

or battalion, down to the calibre of a howitzer, and the mess in their

kettles, which was not of the most savoury description, consisting of

beans and other coarse vegetables, and sour crout, eaten with black

bread, with the addition of an allowance of fresh meat twice a week. On

this rude fare the men looked prim and hardy enough in their limbs, but

dingy in their complexion, and stunted in size.

One morning in the beginning of July, their tents were struck; ten

thousand troops, with their equipage, reimbarked, and their fleet

advanced before evening to the head of the Bosphorus. A single vessel

was reserved for Count Orloff, who followed the next day, having been

occupied to the last in the settlement of the secret treaty relating to

the Dardanelles, which was signed on the 8th July, 1833. The Russians

came to the Moslem nation as friends, and might have left with the

glory of generosity towards their ally, but for this act of rapacity,

which emulated the prowess of a bird of prey leaving the marks of its

talons on its victim. Orloff had well performed his mission in obtaining

the consent of the Porte to the contract, of which it is believed he

carried the draft in his pocket—giving to Russia the power she had not

attempted to enforce, of closing or opening the passage for ships of war

at her pleasure. Such was the General’s eagerness to arrive, under the

apprehension that affairs might be already so settled as to thwart his

object, that he flew into a violent rage with the captain of the ship

for losing some hours’ way, by mistake, in making the Bosphorus, and

he is stated to have knocked him down on the quarter-deck. Their naval

officers, nettled at this story being made public, denied the concluding

circumstance, but admitted the remainder. Orloff had next a trial of

pride, as well as temper, to undergo, which he is not likely to have

borne with complacency. It happened that both himself and Lord Ponsonby

waited on the Sultan the same day for their introductory audience;

and his Lordship learning that Count Orloff, who had preceded him to

the palace, was to be honoured with the earliest reception, sent in a

message that in such case he would quit the country without delivering

his credentials. They were of equal rank as ambassadors, but the British

envoy asserted his right of precedence from priority of arrival at the

capital, which regulates the etiquette, and carried his point, leaving

the Count to pass the time as he best might, till the ceremony of his own

presentation was ended.

The legitimate line of the Orloffs is extinct, and the name is now borne

by two natural nephews of the famous Prince Orloff, the favourite of

Catherine, and the leader in the conspiracy which deprived the Emperor

Paul of his throne and life. Count Alexis, who figured in the expedition,

owes his honours and favour to the zeal which he displayed in supporting

the reigning Emperor at the time of the insurrection at St. Petersburg,

in December 1826, on his Majesty’s accession to the throne. The brother

of Alexis, who had unhappily connected himself with the revolutionists,

was said, by an English writer, to have obtained a remission of the

severer part of his sentence; but there is every reason to believe that

he continued up to that very period an exile in Siberia, to expiate his

crime. Such is the diversity of fortune, and the extreme of summary

reward and punishment among Russian nobles of the same family at the

present day.

A stone, erected at the foot of their lines, near the sea, commemorates

by a simple inscription of dates in Turkish, the visit of the Muscovite

forces to the Bosphorus; no other vestiges of the event being now

visible, save in the bare and shorn aspect of the hills on which they

were encamped; and, doubtlessly many a longing on their part did that

visit excite for their permanent establishment in a land and climate, so

superior to their own flat and icy regions.

PRINTED BY RICHARD CLAY, BREAD-STREET-HILL.

FOOTNOTES

[1] Pavilions.

[2] Turkish carriages.

[3] Boats.

[4] The smallest actual coin known; twenty of them being only equal to

one penny English.

[5] The City of the Sultan.

[6] The City of the Sultan.

[7] The City of the Sultan.

[8] Coagulated buttermilk.

[9] Pipes.

[10] The Seraglio at the point.

[11] Vassal.

[12] Sovereigns.

[13] Grooms.

[14] Confectioners.

[15] Street-porters.

[16] Literally, “cool drink.”

[17] Blancmange.

[18] Pipe-bowls.

[19] Emperor.

[20] The attempt of the Sultan Selim to organize a regular army had

nearly failed, from the fact of his having named the troops Nizam Djedid,

or the New Regulation, which the present Sultan changed to Nizam Attick,

or the Old Regulation, in order to appease the popular outcry against

innovation; the first murmur being silenced by a declaration that the

force then forming was a revival of that instituted by Solyman I., an

assurance which at once reconciled the people to the change.

[21] Trowsers.

[22] Fate.

[23] Constellation.

[24] Wonderful!

[25] City of the Sultan.

[26] Chaplet.

[27] The height of the mosque to the summit of the dome is one hundred

and eighty-five French feet; the dome itself, from the gallery to the

leads, forty-seven; and its diameter fifty-four.

[28] Ten Pounds sterling.

[29] Virgin.

[30] Robe.

[31] Daggers.

[32] Reader of the Korān.

[33] Professional courier.

[34] Fine.

[35] Archi-Chancellor of the Patriarchate, and Head of the Greek Synod in

1836.

[36] Lady Montagu’s Letters, Vol. I. page 162, Sharpe’s edition.

[37] Dr. Walsh’s Journey from Constantinople.

[38] Interpreter.

[39] A composition resembling blancmange, and very popular in Turkey.

[40] Sour and congealed milk.

[41] Virgin.

[42] Dr. Walsh’s “Residence in Constantinople,” vol. ii. pp. 461, 462.

[43] Professional tale-teller.

[44] Dr. Walsh’s “Residence in Constantinople,” vol. ii. p. 2.

[45] Water-melon.

[46] Scribe.

[47] Literally “black soul”—the acmé of opprobium.

[48] Passport, or safe-conduct, granted by the authorities to travellers.

[49] Ambassador.

[50] Present.

[51] Pliny, lib. vi. cap. 2.

[52] Walsh’s Residence at Constantinople, vol. i. pp. 282, 283.

[53] Daggers.

[54] Public Baths.

[55] The art of painting on glass, or gypsum, is practised in great

perfection at Cairo.

[56] Tales of the Ramad’han, by J. A. St. John, Esq.

[57] The zarf is a small stand, shaped like an egg-cup, and of about the

same size.

[58] Bowl of red clay, frequently gilt, and always beautifully formed.

[59] Literally the Sultan’s pier, whence the plain in the vicinity is

also called the Sultan’s valley.

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