Command a Vessel. Sail for London. Come near going on the Goodwin
Sands. Anchor at London. Sail for Mobile. Serious affair with the
Seamen. Spirits discharged from the Ship. A Fortune-Teller. Sail for
Liverpool. Sail as mate of the Ashburton. A Storm. Run upon the Rocks.
Perilous Situation. Proceed to St. Johns, and go smuggling. Are taken,
and ship sold. News from home. Go thither, and unknown. Conclusion.
Again on the first of August, 1843, I left St. Johns as commander of
the Solway Frith, bound for London, with a crew of twenty-one all told.
The owner, (Mr. W---- and wife,) were aboard. Proceeded down the bay
of Fundy, very finely indeed; had nothing to mar our happiness, until
we were in the chops of the channel. A fine breeze wafted us in the
space of forty-eight hours into the Downs, where we came to anchor
among three hundred sail from all quarters of the globe. About sunset,
one night, the wind freshened a little, and hauled around into the
westward, increasing each moment in fury. Some of the ships parted from
their anchors, others cut away their masts, and rigging, to prevent if
possible their severing the cable, and falling back upon the sands;
while some would slip their cable, and run for the north sea. At ten
o'clock the gale had attained that height, I thought it best to lower
the top-gallant yards and masts; and while in the act, the anchor
started, and we ran stern-foremost towards the sands with the greatest
rapidity. All were filled with the greatest terror. Knowing there was
no time to be lost, I threw out the best bower, and payed out ninety
fathom of cable, then the small bower with seventy fathoms. The desired
effect was produced; the ship was stopped in her course. Our windlass
was nearly cut off by the wearing of the chains. Life-boats were every
where bounding upon the wave like feathers, while the ships were
plunging and tossing madly about. By four, the next morning, all of
our top-gallant masts and yards were upon deck; thus we lay until the
day following, when Mr. W---- and lady took the life-boat, and went on
shore, and thence to London by land.
By the recommendation of the pilot, I chartered the steamer Lion to tow
us to London. She towed us as far as the---- light on the roadstead of
Sheerness, where we lay in wait for a tide, when she again towed us to
the----, where we lightened her of her deck load, and of part of that
in the hold, and moored to the East County dock, where the remainder of
our cargo was discharged.
We then hauled into a dry dock, in order to find our leakage if
possible. It was supposed, as this was the first voyage of the Solway
Frith, some bolt-hole was left unstopped through mistake, which had
also escaped the caulker's notice, which was, on examination, found to
be the case.
The ship being caulked, we hauled to the Timass Buoys to await orders.
Here we remained but a few days, when Mr. W---- came on board, and
ordered me to get ready for Mobile, Alabama, U. S. A.
I immediately got my stores and ballast ready. Took on a pilot, and
sailed for Mobile, Oct. 7th, 1843. Ran down the shore, and arrived at
the Downs with a double-reefed top-sail breeze. Discharged our pilot at
Deal, and stood down the channel.
On the third day took our departure from the Lizard light bearing North.
The day following, unbent cables, stowed anchor, and shaped our course
for Mana Isle; had a stiff breeze till we struck the trade winds, when
we found it light. Setting studding-sails alow and aloft, made all
possible sail, and were enabled, after eighteen days' sail, to reach
Mana; found a mistake of twenty miles in my reckoning; as it happened,
however, all was well.
Ran through the Mana passage, and made the Island of Hayti or St.
Domingo.
At about dark, sighted the north end of Jamaica, and endeavored to
run between that and St. Domingo. The breeze being so very light, I
failed in the attempt, and ran to the leeward of Jamaica, and passed
the great Command, a very difficult pass, without harm. The breeze
began to freshen a little; we rounded the Cape Antonio, the southern
point of Cuba, and hauled our wind for Mobile, on a bowline, and made
Massacre Island. A pilot seeing us; came for the ship, before I hoisted
a signal; thinking to have a little sport on knowing our vessel to
be a fast sailer, crowded all sail, and gained very much of him, he
meanwhile urged his little boat along as fast as possible. Heaving to
took him aboard, and bracing full, soon were at the entrance of the
bay; had much difficulty in getting over the bar, which we struck three
times without much damage.
Getting over the bar, we proceeded up Dog river, and came to in four
fathoms of water. Mr. W---- went to town to attend to his business. I
had the sails unbent, and stored in the sail-room.
The lighters came along side for the ballast. Finding stone for ballast
very scarce indeed, I concluded to screen the stone from the sand, and
reserve them for use while I discharged the sand. This being done,
all hands under the charge of the mate went about fitting the ship
sails, setting the rigging, &c. While this was going on, I was gunning,
fishing, or any thing I chose to do. I procured game sufficient, or
nearly so, for the ship's use. Much time I spent about the town.
Mobile is situated on the west side of the Mobile bay, in a position
elevated above the overflow of the river. In 1700 it was founded by the
Spanish, and came into the possession of the Americans in 1813, being
at that time of but little note, since which time it has increased very
much; yet diseases have hindered its rapid growth. It is now one of the
greatest markets for cotton in the country.
Ships lying at Mobile are obliged to sight their anchors every few
days, on account of the nature of the bottom, which is very soft
indeed, otherwise they would become so firmly imbedded in the mud, as
to render all attempts to raise them fruitless. Many times the ship
is hove directly over the anchor, the windlass manned, and the ship
careened over very much, which is continually drawing upon the anchor;
and, as she rights herself, is again drawn over; this continues till
they are able to heave it to the cat-head by the windlass.
One day, while we lay at anchor, I went on shore, and, as usual, left
the mate in charge; on my return, found the mate holding to different
articles to keep himself from falling as he went across the deck. As
I stood talking with him, one of the crew came reeling up, and dared
him to fight, at the same time using the most abusive language. I
remained silent a few moments, when I ordered him to his duty, and to
be quiet. He flew at me in a perfect rage, offering me many insults,
and attempted to strike me. Seeing four more of his drunken fellows
coming towards me, I thought it about time to be doing something; dealt
the first one a blow above his eyes, which threw him with force across
a beef barrel, screaming loudly. This blow was so violent that my thumb
was dislocated. The second received a blow which put him with his
fellow. This also disabled my left hand.
The first one now came to the second attack; I met him with the toe
of my boot under his chin, which laid him upon the deck where he was
willing to remain. The other three soon came hurriedly forward to
assist their comrades. Seizing an iron bolt, about two feet long, which
was very fortunately near me, I laid them all upon the deck together.
The steward took them to their berths, and dressed their wounds. One
of them had his jaw broken, another his head badly hurt, and one of
his ribs broken. The next morning Mr. W---- came on board, and learned
the whole matter. I then discharged all the liquor from the ship, and
suffered not a single drop on board after. In a few days three of the
men went to their duty; the other two never did, being disabled for a
long time. The cargo was sent on board, packed and stowed. We remained
at Mobile four or five months before we could get a cargo.
It had been nearly a year since my friends had heard any intelligence
of me whatever, and that only indirectly. They being extremely
solicitous respecting me, laid their case before a traveling
fortune-teller, who told them of my exact situation, and of the time I
should return to them. This they had little faith in; for so long had I
been gone, I was thought to be almost wholly estranged. The capability
of those fortune-tellers, I have always and do still doubt; yet I
solemnly assert that in this case it was told rightly.
We sailed from Mobile in March, bound for Liverpool. When abreast
the Bermudas, we were met with a very heavy squall; for this we were
tolerably well prepared, though very heavily laden.
The sea was very irregular and high; the ship labored very heavily
indeed; besides this, our situation was rendered doubly fearful by the
extreme darkness. Seldom, if ever, did I pass a worse night than this.
There was one remarkable feature attending it: it was unaccompanied
with lightning or thunder, which are so frequent in that season and
climate. The magnificence of the phospheretic scenery was such that
the most timid mariner would pause in his duty amid the warring of
the elements, where danger beset him on every hand, to admire its
sublimity.
The long wished for day at length arrived; and through the dense fog
we could occasionally see traces of light, that, with rising of the
barometer, were sure indications that the worst was over. Had the storm
continued longer, or had the ship been more heavily laden with timber,
or with any compact loading, causing a greater dead weight in her
bottom, in consequence of which she would have rolled much quicker, and
labored much more heavily, I fear all would have been lost.
About ten that day, we made sail to steady the ship, the sea being
still very heavy.
At about two in the afternoon, we had a view of, I think, the largest
water, or by some termed, air-spout, I ever saw. Nothing occurred until
we reached soundings at the St. George's channel. Here Mrs. W----
presented her husband with a fine boy; when the fact was communicated
to the crew, they hoisted the colors and fired a salute.
A stormy wind headed us several days; the channel was full of vessels
of all nations waiting a passage up. A light breeze springing up, we
set studding-sails, and soon made the Tuskar light. Rounding the rock,
we shaped our course to Holyhead. A thick fog again setting in, and
shutting out the land from sight, we were obliged to run the ship by
reckoning. When abreast of Bardsey island, spoke a coaster, and found
our reckoning right.
At night the fog cleared away. Made sail. Sighted Holyhead light on
the coast of Wales; rounded the head at daylight; took on a pilot who
soon ran us into Liverpool. When we docked ship, and discharged all
hands. A few days after, the ship and cargo was sold upon the water.
I was offered the command of her by the new owners, to make a voyage
to Quebec; this I declined, not liking the voyage, though I regretted
leaving the ship, for she was a beautiful sailor.
Wishing to go to St. Johns, I watched every opportunity to work my
passage. This I could find no means of doing until some time in July,
when I was offered the berth of chief mate on board the Ashburton,
Capt. Poole, bound thither. The Ashburton was a splendid ship of 1009
tons register, built for either passengers or freight. All things
ready, we left our moorings the 18th of July, with sixteen passengers,
and cargo of dry goods, iron, &c. Proceeded down the Mersey, and stood
across to the Irish shore, made the hill of Howth. The wind blowing
a double reefed top-sail breeze from the southwest, and every moment
freshening, we hauled up and stowed our main-sail; tacked and stood
back to the English coast. Sighted the Calf-of-man at midnight. Finding
we made no progress, and the wind still increasing, we close reefed the
fore and mizzen top-sails, and double reefed the main top-sails. At
three, the next day, the Captain thought best to square away, and stand
northwest towards the North Channel; which course we ran about six
hours, then hauled our wind N. N. E. till midnight, and stood N. N. W.
During this time I was below: coming on deck at half past twelve, found
the Captain had been on deck all night.
On learning that, at nine o'clock, the Calf-of-man bore E. S. E. four
leagues distant, and since that time we had been bearing northwest,
I was fully persuaded all was not right, and went aft into the
poop, where the Captain was walking with a thoughtful expression of
countenance. The rain was at this time falling in torrents.
[Illustration: WRECK OF THE ASHBURTON ON THE COAST OF IRELAND.]
I told the Captain we were close in upon the Irish shore. With a
sneering laugh he replied, "We are far enough from Ireland, and we must
still haul our course a little to the westward."
I turned away and went forward, biting my lips through indignation at
his proceedings. Knowing him to be a skillful navigator, I immediately
made up my mind that it was his intention to run the ship upon the
rocks, regardless of his own life and also the lives of his crew and
passengers, in order to get the insurance, as she was insured for
double her real value. Putting a man on the lookout, I went aft again
and told the captain we should be on the rocks in a few moments, if the
ship was not hauled to the eastward. He forced a smile, and attempted
to laugh me out of the idea I held with respect to our situation. I
told him it was his privilege to laugh if he chose, but it would be no
laughing affair for the crew and passengers to go on the rocks, as we
certainly should, unless we stood to the eastward.
At that moment, he seeing a little light on our starboard bow,
exclaimed:
"All right! Port Patrick light; we must haul to the westward!"
Seeing it was a revolving one, I knew it to be the South Rock light,
and told him she would strike in fifteen minutes. In a moment I saw
the little harbor lights called St. Johns light, on our larboard bow,
situated at the entrance of Port-au-Ferry Lough. I ran forward, and
could see through the fog, which was breaking up a little, land and
breakers right ahead.--Upon my own responsibility I immediately ordered
the yards to be braced up and the helm put hard to port.
The ship came to and ranging ahead, in a moment would have cleared the
point, had not a heavy sea struck her starboard bow and deadened her
headway; her keel struck upon the rock, the sails caught aback, and
swung her bows around upon her keel with great force.
She rested with each end on a reef, and as the tide left her, she
careened and twirled over, thus giving the surf still greater effect
upon her. At this unfavorable moment the captain ordered the sails to
be clewed up. I knowing the great danger that would arise from it, told
the men to look out for themselves first. I had hardly ceased speaking
when a sea washed over her decks, sweeping upwards of twenty of the
crew into the sea!
Those that were aft--seven of us--were saved. The screams of the
passengers, who were all fast below, were beyond conception. They were
set on deck to act for themselves.
Daylight came, and we were seen from the shore, (we went upon the rock
about two o'clock, having been there a little over two hours,) but they
dare not attempt our rescue, as the sea ran very high. Twenty-three of
the bodies of those lost were seen washing about, and beating against
the ship's side.
Again a heavy sea struck her, and carried away the boats from the
fore part of the poop, with all my articles of value, except a
few instruments of navigation; and I almost cursed the day I went
aboard the Ashburton. But when I saw the mangled, headless bodies
of the sailors beating about against the rocks, my loss sank into
insignificance.
We had stowed in the half deck some salt hams, which had not been
disturbed: our bread had been saturated with salt water, yet we
devoured it like half-famished wolves.
Thus we lay for seven days, almost momentarily expecting death, and yet
within half a mile of the shore. On the eighth day a boat came from the
shore, and when within hail was capsized, and one of the noble crew
found a watery grave.
The ninth day a boat succeeded in getting to us, and took away the
passengers, captain, boatswain, and steward, leaving the rest of us to
spend yet another dreary night upon the rocks.
The next day the insurance agents, one from Belfast and the other from
Port-au-Ferry, came out to us, with the captain. They wished us to
stay and take charge of the wreck until further orders. offering us
good wages, but this was far from being a pleasant berth. We however
concluded to stay, and busied ourselves collecting the goods that might
remain on the wreck, also all the bolts and other articles from the
ship worth saving. A boat was sent off from shore to collect the bodies
of those that were drowned, who still lay beating about the rocks and
in holes on the reef, where they had been deposited by the water.
At the expiration of seventeen days, I received a letter from the
captain, ordering us all to proceed to Port-au-Ferry immediately. On
our arrival, we found the captain with the insurance agents, who wished
to know my charges for the services rendered. I told them two dollars
per day from the time of our sailing from Liverpool. To this they
objected, and offered me one dollar and fifty cents per day. I told
them I should have two dollars or nothing, and if I was not paid in
six hours, I would place a seizure upon the wreck. The captain offered
to pay me when I arrived at Belfast, and thither he proceeded with me.
On going to the office, I was asked to sign the protest; to this I
objected, saying I wished to get my money first. The captain then tried
to intimidate me, by saying it was a mate's duty to do it.
I then offered him his choice between paying me and an exposure of the
facts respecting the wreck. Immediately he chose to pay me the two
dollars I asked, rather than suffer me to make public the circumstances
connected with that which he well knew would throw him out of the
insurance. That I ought to have done, for he fully deserved it, by
suffering the ship to go on the rocks, at the sacrifice of so many
lives, in order that he might sell his vessel at an exorbitantly large
price; thereby adding to the crime of murder that of robbery!
I received my pay, signed the protest, and left the office, to search
for an opportunity to work my passage to St. Johns.
Falling in with the captain of the Sir Henry Pottinger, with whom I was
previously acquainted, I obtained the berth of chief mate.
We sailed from Belfast on the 13th of August, 1844; rounded the
Copeland light, and, the wind being northerly, stood down the channel;
we passed the South Rock light, and came to the reef on which the
Ashburton struck; and as I passed the place, I almost fancied I could
hear those screeches still ringing in my ears, as they rang that night
loud above the angry roarings of the surf.
With my glass I looked upon the sad scene till we rounded the St. Johns
point, which shut it out from our sight.
Two men more than the complement were found, when the hands were
called to set the watch. They, on being questioned, said they were
deserters from the army, and wished to go to America; therefore they
had adopted this way for accomplishing their purpose. The captain long
questioned in his mind whether to proceed with them or leave them on
shore, and asked my advice. Supposing myself in their situation for
one moment, I decided in their favor. But this did not save them, for
the captain could not think himself doing right in taking them away,
notwithstanding his strong desire to assist them, and he resolved to
put them on shore.
When abreast Dublin Bay, we hauled our wind and stood in shore, and
when within three or four miles of the shore, the boats were cleared
away, and the captain ordered me to put them ashore. To this they
stoutly objected, declaring they would not go alive. One of them was
put into the boat by force; the other finding resistance useless, went
quietly into the boat, and both were put on shore.
Their entreaties to be taken again to the ship and suffered to go to
America, brought tears to the eyes of the hardy sailors, and for a
moment they paused almost persuaded to take them back again. Hurriedly
we took our departure, leaving them standing on the point of rock on
which they were first landed, where they remained as long as we were in
sight.
Arriving at the ship, we braced full and stood down the channel.
Nothing unusual occurred on the passage, which was completed by the
middle of September.
I had now been gone about thirteen months, and was no better off than
when I left home, having lost my year's hard-earned money through the
miserable conduct of Captain Poole of the Ashburton.
The urgent necessities which were placed upon me, required my utmost
exertions. In company with another person, I bought a small vessel of
fifteen tons, and sailed for Eastport. Here we purchased a quantity
of tobacco, cigars, gin, and tea, to the amount of $250, intending
to smuggle it into St. Johns. This proved a successful enterprise,
and we cleared fifty per cent.--Stimulated by this happy result, we
again proceeded to Eastport, and purchased a still larger quantity
than before, with which we succeeded finely until we reached Partridge
Island, where we were becalmed; the fog came up from the southeast so
heavy, that we could see only a little distance; night also setting in,
rendered our situation drear indeed.
About midnight, we heard oars pulling towards us very easy. Fearing
they were custom-house officers, we lowered our sails, to avoid
detection if possible.--They hailed us and inquired our business? We
told them we were fishermen. Choosing to be more certain, they examined
our cargo, and then took us in tow to St. Johns.
The next day our boat and goods were sold. We attended the auction, and
bid the boat back again. We then rigged her entirely new, resolving to
try our luck again.
We purchased our cargo, and started for St. Johns about 10 o'clock in
the morning, in order to reach home about midnight; we landed our
goods in a large hole in the rocks in an unfrequented place, and stood
off with the boat. We went on shore in order to get a team. On our
return, we found three custom-house officers guarding our goods! This
proved an entire overthrow to our hopes and prospects. Stripped of all
our little property, we were left with no alternative but to try the
sea again.
I accordingly looked about for an opportunity. Soon I was offered the
command of a new bark, then in the stocks, which would soon be ready
for sea. The vessel lay one hundred miles up the coast. I was also to
take charge of her outfits.
The day previous to my departure, I received a letter (through the
owner of the ship Duncan, in which I had previously sailed,) from my
brother-in-law, giving me an account of the situation of the family.
This was the first line I had received from home since I left. He
was extremely anxious that I should return. I went to the ship and
commenced my labors, which I continued only three weeks.
I returned to St. Johns and fitted out for home, where I arrived about
the last of November, 1844, having been absent fourteen years and a few
months. Those long years of hardship had so altered the boy of sixteen
summers, (as I was when they last saw me,) that none scarcely knew me.
In a few days it was my privilege to fill that place at the
Thanksgiving dinner-table which had so long been vacated by me. In
a few days my family followed me. For a length of time I was in the
employ of the Dwight Manufacturing Company at Cabotville: at the
present time I am employed by the Western Railroad Company, and
stationed at Springfield.
Thus I draw my simple narrative to a close. It is the author's desire
that, while his simply-told tale serves to pass away an hour, it will
contribute something to the interest as well as to the amusement of the
reader.
THE END.
TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES
-Obvious print and punctuation errors fixed.
-There are many dialectal and seamen's words reported here; as far as
possible they have been left as in the original work