an early and strong swarm in it, which may be generally procured of
a neighbouring bee-keeper; if from a distance, considerable care is
necessary to admit plenty of air; the shaking attendant upon carriage
irritates the bees so much, that, if not well ventilated, there is
danger of the swarm being stifled, and the finer the swarm, the greater
the danger. For the purpose of ventilation, remove the slides and
substitute perforated zinc, wrapping the hive up in a coarse cloth of
open texture (dispensing with the floor-board during transit when the
distance is great).
It is necessary only to send the lower or stock hive to the party
furnishing the swarm, taking the precaution to fix the slides at top
with tacks, as the hive has to be inverted to receive the bees. They
are shaken into it in the usual manner,[10] as they cluster around the
branch of the tree or shrub on which they may have chosen to alight.
After the hiving is accomplished, the hive should be left near to
catch any stragglers, for there will always be a few; towards evening,
close the entrance, and remove them to the exact position they are
intended permanently to occupy. Success depends on this, and also on
their careful removal on the day or evening of swarming. The following
morning the bees labour in the new location, marking well their
habitation before they take flight, and to which they will not fail to
return, loaded with luscious store.
[Footnote 10: Sometimes swarms alight on trunks of trees or on walls,
where it may be difficult to shake or brush them off. In the _Journal
of Horticulture_, Mr. Woodbury mentions an instance of this kind,
which he experienced last summer:--"A swarm clustered among the large
branches of a pear-tree, just at their point of union with the trunk.
In this case he merely supported a straw hive just over the swarm with
the left hand, whilst he struck the trunk of the tree with the open
palm of the right. The vibration thus produced sent the bees up into
the hive with great rapidity, and the entire swarm was speedily hived
in the most satisfactory manner." A few whiffs of smoke will accelerate
upward movement of swarms in such circumstances.]
A fortnight must be allowed for filling the stock-hive; then, if the
weather be fine and warm, they will prepare to swarm again, as will be
indicated by the thermometer rising rapidly to 100 degrees or upwards.
One of the zinc slides on the wooden top must now be withdrawn, and a
bell-glass put on, covered and protected by the upper hive; the other
glasses may then be given in the same manner, a day or two after which,
should the weather continue favourable, all signs of swarming will at
once disappear, the bees now having increased store room, which they
will readily fill with comb. It is often found useful to attach a piece
of clean empty honey-comb to the ventilating tube of the glass; it is
an attraction, and induces the bees to commence working in it sooner
than they otherwise would do. The ventilator should always remain open
during the day, to allow the hot air to pass away from the interior,
thereby contributing to the whiteness and beauty of the work; the bees
enjoy the refreshment of coolness thereby afforded, and they work the
faster for it. At evening, all ventilation should be stopped, and the
glasses wrapped round with flannel or some warm material, for the
reasons mentioned at page 65.
The directions for taking honey are much the same as before mentioned.
Some apiarians, however, consider that deprivation is more easily
accomplished by disconnecting the super over night, in the manner
described at page 58. The bee-keeper, equipped with bee-dress and
gloves, must first raise the glass of comb, and, blowing a little smoke
to intimidate and drive back the bees, wedge it up all round, an inch
or so from the crown-board, by means of three or four blocks, thus to
remain all night. This operation is best performed a little before
dusk. Bees are then less likely to come out, and if they should do so,
will speedily return. The opening in the crown-board remains unclosed,
to afford the bees the opportunity of descending, and joining the
stock-hive below, which they will naturally do for warmth. The upper
straw-hive, or cover for the glasses, is better placed on for the
night. Early in the following morning, before the bees are much about,
the super will be ready for removal. The few bees that remain within
may be speedily induced to quit, and will fly to the entrance. The
slides covering the holes in the crown-board must be inserted, or an
empty glass can be put on, to take the full one's place. A slide seven
and a half inches square is furnished with the hive; this is useful to
remove the glass upon.
The holes in the wooden top of this hive are of a peaked shape, to
act as a preventive against slaughtering any bees whilst pushing the
slide in for the purpose of removing the glass when full. The tacks
before alluded to should be removed from the slides when the hive is
fixed in its place; they are now in the way of cutting off the glass.
The entrance slide is very serviceable during the winter months, to
lessen the passage way, thereby' preventing the admission of too much
cold air: it is also occasionally useful on a summer evening, to lessen
the entrance when moths are troublesome; for if there be only a small
opening, the bees can guard it, and easily repulse intruders. During
the time of gathering, they require the whole width to remain open.
When the weather is so unfavourable as to prevent the bees leaving home
for a few days after being hived, it will be necessary to feed them.
Bees should not be fed in the midst of winter; the proper time is in
the autumn or in the spring.
The best mode of feeding is at the top of the stock hive. This is done
by using the round feeder.
The bottle feeder may be used instead of the round feeder, and in the
same place, by those who give the preference to that method.
Whilst on the subject of feeding, it may be well to suggest to the
bee-keeper, that, after the honey harvest, he should ascertain the
state of the stock-hive, because we have sometimes found that hives
which were very strong during summer, and which have yielded a good
supply of honey, have been left rather poorly off for the winter. No
doubt, under the impression that those nicely-filled supers which
the bees intended for themselves would be amply sufficient for their
sustenance, they have, for the most part, devoted the space below
to the queen for breeding, little imagining that the precious store
would be taken away, and consequently have left themselves too small
provision for autumn and winter.
The apiarian having, therefore, so richly reaped the fruit of his bees'
labours, it is but right that he should guard against the labourers
themselves suffering any want therefrom. The state of the interior of
the hive may be ascertained by applying a weighing machine, and the
requisite supply administered by feeding. Both weighing machine and
feeder are described further on.
The simplicity and easy management of this hive have deservedly
rendered it an especial favourite, combining, as it does, real utility
with many conveniences to satisfy the curious. Not a few bee-keepers
desire to unite the two qualifications, and no hives combine these
advantages in a greater degree than Neighbour's improved cottage hive.
IMPROVED COTTAGE HIVE WITHOUT WINDOWS.
This hive is of precisely the same size, construction, and management
as the last mentioned, with the exception that it has no windows or
thermometer in the lower or stock hive. The apiarian, with this hive,
will have to trust more to his own judgment as regards the likelihood
of swarming, and must watch the appearance the bees present at the
entrance. When it is time to put on supers, in order to prevent
swarming, premonition will be given by the unusual numbers crowding
about the entrance, as well as by the heat of the weather, making it
evident that more room is required for the increasing population.
Not being able to form an idea of the state of the hive in spring and
autumn by looking into the stock-hive, it will be advisable to adopt
the means of weighing. A stock at Michaelmas should weigh 20 lbs.,
exclusive of the hive, or be made up to that weight by feeding.
THE LADIES' OBSERVATORY OR CRYSTAL BEE-HIVE.
[Illustration]
The following engraving illustrates the construction of the Ladies'
Observatory Hive. The stock-hive is cylindrical, with a flat top and
a hole in the centre; the dimensions twelve and a half inches inside,
eight and a half inches deep; the outer cover being raised, and made
of stout glass, so as not easily to break. A support, composed of even
wooden bars fixed on a pedestal from the floor-board, is very useful
for the bees to cling to and attach their combs, instead of resting
wholly against the glass.
The floor-board is of mahogany, the border being French polished. A
middle-sized bell-glass, for deprivation, is placed over the hole; this
hole may be closed by a zinc slide. A cover of straw, eighteen inches
deep, fifteen inches wide, with a zinc ventilating top similar to that
affixed to the cottage hive, completes the arrangements. The weight of
the stock-hive and board is about 16 lbs.
This hive is well adapted for those persons who are desirous of having
the opportunity of more closely examining the workmanship of these
industrious and interesting insects, as the whole of the interior
may be exposed to view; it is particularly suitable for a window or
an indoor apiary, and will also be found a valuable addition to the
green-house. Under these circumstances, the entrance-way should be
covered with a flat piece of glass, and an aperture cut in the sash
corresponding with the entrance to the hive; through the glazed passage
the bees may then find egress and ingress without being able to gain
access to the apartment. An alighting board, four inches wide, must be
fixed outside, on a level with the entrance.
We had a hive of this kind in operation at the Great Exhibitions of
1851 and 1862, fixed after the manner above described. It answered
admirably, and excited much interest and curiosity, though placed there
under many disadvantages.
When a hive of this kind is to be stocked, procure an early and strong
swarm, which must be temporarily hived in a common straw hive, from
which dislodge the bees into the glass hive, but for this purpose a
little preparation will have to be made. Spread a sheet on the ground,
place the mahogany floor-board on it with the support, put three
bricks, or some solid blocks of about the same substance, upon which
the glass will rest; then, with a sharp and sudden blow, precipitate
the swarm out of the straw hive on to the floor-board and support,
place the glass hive on the bricks, and the bees will collect under the
bars and on to the pedestal. In about one hour's time the whole will
have settled quietly and all the stragglers on the board will have
collected together, the swarm hanging pear-shaped from the bar support;
the bricks can now be removed, and the glass put in its right place
on the floor-board. The straw cover being put on the hive, it can be
removed to the place it is destined permanently to occupy.
The light should not be admitted for some days after hiving; if
undisturbed, the bees will speedily build comb, working from the wooden
bars, which are placed there for their assistance and support. In ten
days or a fortnight, if the weather continue fine and warm, they will
prepare to swarm again; the opening at the top must now be unstopped,
and the bell-glass put on, guide-comb having been previously fixed. The
directions given for the improved cottage hive equally apply to the
ladies' observatory hive.
It is advisable, in winter, to furnish the glass stock-hive with more
protection from cold than is afforded by the straw cover alone; some
thick baize, or wrapper of wadding, for which there is space between
the glass hive and the cover, will prevent so much moisture condensing
on the sides of the glass. Moisture is injurious, causing the combs
to grow mouldy; a little protection in the way of wrapping very much
prevents this.
The hole at top is used for supplying food, should the apiarian fear
the stock of honey is in danger of running short; either the bottle
feeder or the round feeder maybe used for the purpose.
COTTAGER'S HIVE, FOR TAKING HONEY IN STRAW CAPS, WITHOUT THE
DESTRUCTION OF THE BEES.
[Illustration]
A very prevalent opinion exists, that bees do better in straw than in
hives made of any other material. Another opinion prevails, viz., that
the old-fashioned straw hive is the least expensive, the most simple,
and the most productive. Although we cannot go so far as this, we are
willing to admit that a simplified adaptation of the humane system to
the old common straw hive is the most suitable to put into the hands of
that large class of bee-keepers--cottagers. By these the more fanciful
hives will be instantly condemned; besides, the expense puts them
quite beyond the reach of the poorer class. The object aimed at in
planning our Cottager's Hive has been to furnish a depriving hive that
should be at once easy of management, inexpensive, and convenient. The
stock-hive, into which the bees are first hived, is a round straw hive,
having a flat top, with a hole in the centre. The size of this lower
hive is seven or eight inches deep, fourteen inches across the bottom,
finished with a wooden hoop, which adds very much to the firmness and
durability of the hive. The floor-board is one and a quarter inch
thick, with a way sunk therein for the entrance. A small round mat of
straw closes the hole in the top; this mat may be fixed by wooden pegs.
We have now described what is termed the stock-hive, which is, in fact,
an old-fashioned straw hive, adapted, modernised, and improved to the
more humane, viz., the depriving, system. The weight of the stock-hive,
with its floor-board, is about 7 lbs.
The super or cap hive is about seven inches deep, eight inches in
diameter, and, when filled, contains about 10 lbs. of honey and comb. A
glass window, which is placed at the side, is useful for inspecting the
progress made in filling it!
A common straw hive, sufficiently deep to cover, drops over the super,
keeping the window dark, and fitting close on to the stock-hive.
This cover-hive may be made fast by driving in two skewers, one on
either side, to keep the whole firm. Unless placed in a bee-house or
under a shed, the outside should be painted; or a piece of oil-cloth,
or water-proof covering of any kind, shaped so as to shoot off the
rain, will save the trouble of paint, and answer the purpose. If no
protection of this sort is used, the rain is likely to rot the straw.
As a covering, cottagers often use straight stiff thatching straw,
sewed together; this contrivance is termed a "hackle," and has a pretty
appearance, particularly if a number of hives are in a row. Care has to
be exercised that mice do not make the covering hive a resting-place.
Mortar is often used for fastening round the hive at the bottom: this
is a bad plan, as it forms a harbour for insects; the wooden hoop fits
so close as to leave little necessity for anything of the kind.
The principle of the depriving system is so much the same with all our
hives, that a good deal of repetition is necessary in describing in
detail the management of each separate variety. The object aimed at
with the cottager's hive, as, indeed, with all our hives, is to provide
a compartment for the bees to live in with their queen, she being the
mother of all. It is intended, by inducing the queen to remain in her
original apartment, that all breeding should be there performed, as
well as the storing of bee-bread and honey, for the winter sustenance
of the bees. The cap hive, or upper chamber, known as the "super," is
for the storing of honey, which the bee-keeper looks upon as a surplus,
and which, at the close of the honey gathering, or as soon as filled,
he intends to deprive the bees of, and appropriate to his own use, of
course taking care to leave sufficient in the lower or stock hive for
winter sustenance.
The mode of stocking a hive of this kind is so familiarly known, that
any who at all understand the hiving of bees into a common straw hive
can make no mistake or find any difficulty in performing it. Lest these
pages should fall into the hands of persons who are not so acquainted,
we will refer them to the directions already given at pages 21 and 72.
The hive may be smeared inside with a little honey, if at hand;
but this is unimportant, as a clean hive answers well. Some older
bee-keepers prefer to give a little dressing, to encourage the bees to
like their new home.
After the swarm has been in the hive two weeks, the straw super hive
may be put on, first removing the straw mat, to give the bees access to
it. If the hive be a stock, that is, a swarm of the last or previous
years, the super may be put on as soon as the weather is fine and warm,
in May. But much depends on the weather and strength of the hive,
as regards the time occupied, by the bees in filling the super; in
favourable weather a fortnight suffices.
If, on looking in at the little window, the bee-master sees that the
cells are sealed over, the cap of honey may be removed in the mode
already described. The cells near the window are the last to be filled,
so, when they are sealed, it is safe to conclude that the combs in the
unseen parts are also finished.
Sometimes the queen ascends and deposits her eggs; if, on turning up
the super, brood be visible, replace the cap for a few days, until
the young bees quit their cells. When thus emptied, honey will be
deposited in lieu of the brood.
Suitable pedestals for these hives to stand upon may be obtained. It is
important that these be firmly fixed, and the hive also made fast to
the stand, to prevent its being blown over by high winds.
WOODBURY BAR AND FRAME HIVES.
[Illustration]
Mr. Woodbury's Bar and Frame Hive, as originally made, consists of
a wooden box, fourteen and a half inches square inside, nine inches
deep. This is a hive of large size, but the actual habitable space
inside is lessened by the room occupied by the frames, of which there
are ten; these rest on a rabbet a little below the surface, leaving
a space of three-eighths of an inch between the upper side of the
bars and the crown-board. This allows a free passage on the top for
the bees, entirely obviating the necessity of making excavations in
the crown-board, as has hitherto been recommended. Each frame is
seven-eighths of an inch wide, and rests in notches, with a space of
half an inch between each. The frames extend to within three-eighths of
an inch of the floor-board, so as to hang without touching any part,
leaving about the same distance from the sides. It will be seen that
there is a free passage for the bees on every side, and they are thus
kept from coming in contact with the sides of the hive. Our engraving
shows the hive open, and exposes to view the top of the ten bars and
frames, as they range from back to front. A window is also shown; this
is placed in the engraving over the entrance, but the proper position
would be just opposite. The drawing is made so as to show back and
front at once. The floor-board is one and a quarter inch thick, having
two "keys" on the under side to prevent warping.
WOODBURY STRAW BAR AND FRAME HIVE.
[Illustration]
Since the introduction of the wood hive by Mr. Woodbury, that gentleman
has recommended, in the _Journal of Horticulture_, that the stock-hive
be made of straw, of exactly the same dimensions; this material being
wanner in winter, slightly ventilating, and allowing of absorption.
Bees, during cold weather, cluster together to generate the requisite
degree of heat; the temperature of the interior of the hive being thus
so much higher than the external atmosphere, a good deal of moisture
condenses at the top and on the sides of the hive. The straw, as before
stated, prevents this dampness hanging about the hive, and tends to
keep the inmates more healthy. Dampness in a hive is a fruitful source
of mischief, causing empty combs to grow mouldy, and is injurious in
many ways.
The square straw hives, and a machine for making them, exhibited in the
Austrian department of the International Exhibition of 1862, suggested
the idea of employing that material for English bar and frame hives.
We have had a machine made somewhat similar to the one exhibited, and
suited to the size of our hives, by which our hive-maker is able to
manufacture neat square straw hives. These have a wood frame at top, an
inch deep, with the requisite notches to allow the ten-comb frames to
hang. A similar frame forms the base, the straw being worked between.
The floor-board is one and a quarter inch thick, "keyed" with stout
keys, as before mentioned. An inch projection is left on all sides
beyond the exterior of the hive, from which it is slightly chamfered
down. An entrance, four inches wide, is cut out of the substance of
the board, beginning at the edge, and continuing on the same level
until inside the hive, where it slopes upwards. This entrance is about
three-eighths of an inch high where the hive crosses it.
These straw hives have been generally made without windows, as Mr.
Woodbury and other scientific apiarians so prefer them. They consider
that glass windows are unsuited for winter, because then moisture
condenses on the glass. There is no doubt that the having a peep-hole
or two in a hive adds very agreeably to its value for amateur
bee-keepers, and, to meet the wishes of such, we have had straw hives
constructed with windows. It is not every one who would like to lift
out the frames as often as is necessary for an inspection of the state
of the colony, nor, perhaps, is it advisable to be often thus meddling.
The windows have also a very neat appearance. We have hives with one,
and some with two and three windows; of course, a little extra expense
is incurred where these are made, but that is not objected to by those
who approve of the additional convenience. The crown-board (if correct
to call a straw top by that name) has, like the hive, a frame of wood
all round, and a square, piece of wood in the centre, with a two-inch
hole; this hole is for the purpose of administering food, in a mode
to be explained hereafter. A circular block of wood, four inches in
diameter, closes the opening.
WOODBURY'S GLASS BAR AND FRAME HIVES.
[Illustration]
Some bee-keepers like to be able to make a full and daily inspection
of the hive; we have, therefore, prepared a few hives, constructed of
wooden frames, enclosed on all sides and on the top with window-glass.
The dimensions are precisely the same as those before mentioned,
and allow the same number of bars and frames (ten). The crown has a
round hole cut in the glass to admit of feeding. The four sides are
constructed of double glass, to preserve the bees from variations of
temperature. We cannot, however, recommend this hive for a winter
residence for the bees; we should prefer lifting the combs out with
the bees, and placing them in a straw hive of similar construction, to
pass through the ordeal of the winter season. A stock of bees might be
kept through the year in a hive of this kind, but would require well
wrapping round to keep out the cold. There should be a small glass over
the hole at top, so as to allow the moisture to arise and condense,
instead of doing so in the hive. The operation of exchanging the hive
is so easy, that we should be content to place a stock in one, say,
from April to September, and shift it in the autumn. Such a hive is
a very pleasing object of interest, as in it the whole commonwealth
of bees is exposed, to view; and the hive need not be obscured from
daylight, provided it be protected from sun and rain. All the external
wood-work is of oak-colour, varnished, so that the appearance of the
Glass Bar and Frame Hive is extremely neat and much approved of.
FRAMES.
[Illustration]
As before mentioned, each stock-hive has ten of these frames--each
thirteen inches long, by seven and a quarter inches high, with a
five-eighths of an inch projection at each upper end, which rests in
the notch, either back or front. The width, both of the bar and frame,
is seven-eighths of an inch; this is less, by a quarter of an inch,
than the bar recommended by the older apiarians. Mr. Woodbury--whose
authority on the modern plans for keeping bees is of great
weight--finds the seven-eighths of an inch bar an improvement, because
with them the combs are closer together, and require fewer bees to
cover the brood. Then, too, in the same space that eight old-fashioned
bars occupied, the narrower frames admit of an additional bar, so that,
by using these, increased accommodation is afforded for breeding and
the storing of honey.
IMPROVED COMB BAR.
[Illustration: Section of Bar.]
Mr. Woodbury says that this little contrivance has proved very
effectual in securing straight combs when guide-combs are not
obtainable. The lower angles are rounded off, whilst a central rib
is added, of about one-eighth of an inch in breadth and depth. This
central rib extends to within half an inch of each end, where it is
removed, in order to admit of the bar fitting into the usual notch. All
that is necessary to ensure the regular formation of combs is, to coat
the underneath surface of the central rib with melted wax. Mr. Woodbury
further says: "My practice is to use plain bars whenever guide-combs
are attainable, as those can be attached with much greater facility to
a plain than to a ribbed bar; but whenever I put in a bar without comb,
I always use one of the improved ones. By this method, crooked and
irregular combs are altogether unknown in my apiary."
Most of our bars are made with the ridge; but should any of our
customers prefer the flat ones, we keep a few to supply their
requirements.
With the moveable bar and frame hive, every comb is available for
extraction, and may easily be taken out of the hive; each comb being
fixed within its frame, there is less disturbance to the bees than if
the combs were fixed to the sides, as is the case with ordinary hives.
A strip of wood, about half an inch wide, rests on the floor-board;
in this strip are ten notches, made to receive the lower part of
the frames, so as to retain them in their places at equal distances
from each other. A difficulty is found, with a well-stocked hive, in
dropping the frames into the exact notches, so that it is not necessary
to have these rack works always in use; but when any movement of the
hive is made, it is essential to have the frames firmly fixed by the
aid of this contrivance. It is also advisable to have the frames
perpendicularly supported until the combs are built, so, in order that
the frames should hang true, the hive ought to be on the level. A
little inclination may be given to it from back to front, causing the
hive to fall slightly towards the entrance, so as to allow the moisture
inside the hive, caused by the exhalations of the bees, to run off.
COMPOUND BAR FRAME.
[Illustration]
In the _Journal of Horticulture_, Mr. Woodbury thus describes the
compound bar frame. Being his own adaptation, we cannot do better than
use his own words:--"This is a contrivance of my own, which I have
found very advantageous in enabling me to use frames in stock-hives,
and bars in supers, without forfeiting the advantages arising from
the unlimited interchangeability of every comb in every hive and
super in the apiary. Its construction will be readily understood
by an inspection of the annexed sketch, in which the comb bar is
shown slightly raised from its frame. The bar itself is thirteen
and a quarter inches long, by seven-eighths of an inch wide, and
three-eighths of an inch thick. When the comb bar is in its place,
the whole forms a frame thirteen inches long, by seven and a quarter
inches high (inside measure), with five-eighths of an inch projection
at each end, which rests in its appropriate notch in either the back
or front of the hive. When filled with comb, the bar becomes so firmly
cemented to the frame as to admit of its being handled with facility."
This contrivance is, no doubt, very excellent in the hands of Mr.
Woodbury; but in the hands of the unpractised severe mishaps may arise.
In warm weather the propolis and wax, with which the bees cement the
bar to the frame, become soft; consequently, in handling the frames,
unless dexterity is used, the comb is likely to drop out. We therefore
recommend that the bar and frame be made both in one: greater firmness
and simplicity are thereby gained. Some of these compound bars and
frames are kept in stock at our establishment, though they cannot be
recommended for general use; but should anyone prefer them, they can
be supplied at the same price as the common frames. In describing the
stock-hives of wood, straw, and glass, allusion has frequently been
made to the depriving hives technically called "supers." These are also
made of glass, in wood frames, thirteen inches inside, six inches deep,
with eight bars (without frames). The above engraving represents the
super used with the bar and frame hive.
[Illustration]
Honey-combs in supers are better when made thicker than those for
breeding, consequently the bars are placed a little further apart
than in the lower or stock hive; they are either the Woodbury Ribbed,
contrived to induce the straight building of combs, or flat bars with
guide-combs affixed.
COVERS.
A loose outer case, forming a complete cover for the hive, is found
very useful. The case is made in two parts, for convenience the roof is
also separate, having an acorn at top, which forms a neat finish. These
outside cases are made of wood, and drop lightly over all; when thus
protected, and fixed on a pedestal, the hive may be placed in the open
air in such position as fancy may dictate. The aspect should be south
or south-east, and, if against a wall, sufficient space must be allowed
for a free passage behind, as it is from thence all operations must be
conducted by the apiarian. The case and roof, with the stand, being
the only parts exposed to the weather, will be the only portions that
require painting; they are sometimes stained and varnished, and we are
inclined to prefer the latter for appearance. Should the apiarian have
a complete bee-hive house, the cover, and stands will not be needed.
[Illustration]
When removing or replacing the covers, care should be taken to do
so very gently, or the bees will be enraged, and rush out, and may
inflict stings upon those within their reach. We have obviated the
necessity for lifting off the cover for the purpose of looking in,
either at the window of the stock-hive or of the super, by making a
door, both in the upper and lower parts of the outside case. These
doors, or unglazed windows, are hinged at the bottom, so as to open
downwards, rendering inspection easy, without disturbance to the bees.
A wooden range for supporting a number of hives makes a safe and
economical stand; it may be formed by driving firmly into the ground
two rows of posts, each row about twelve inches apart; to these two
rails, about two inches square, are nailed, and upon these the hives
firmly rest. Care should be taken not to have the hives nearer together
than eighteen inches; the intermediate space will be found very
convenient on which to rest the cover, or for supporting an empty hive
during the proper performance of any operation.
Mr. Woodbury has his hives arranged on rails, somewhat after the plan
before described.
In describing, as above, the various hives and frames, some hints have
been given as to the methods of handling them. This, however, will not
suffice for an induction to the mysteries of practical bee-keeping, and
we must refer the reader to a subsequent section, wherein the details
as to manipulation will be fully explained, and the results of the
experience of several distinguished apiarians will be embodied.
TAYLOR'S IMPROVED COTTAGE HIVE.
[Illustration]
This hive is similar in principle to the cottager's. It is also
similar in size, with the exception of being quite straight at the
sides. A zinc rim affords protection from the weather. Under the upper
straw hive a bell-glass is worked. A mahogany adapting board, with a
four-inch hole in the centre, corresponding with that of the hive,
supplies an even surface for the glass to rest on, and facilitates its
removal when full. For particulars as to stocking and management, see
directions for cottager's and improved cottage hives, pages 72 and 83.
EIGHT-BAR STRAW HIVE.
[Illustration]
This is an ingenious contrivance of Mr. Taylor's. Hoops are worked in
the straw, both at the top and bottom of the stock-hive, and in the
upper hoop are openings cut to receive eight comb bars; each bar is one
inch and an eighth wide, with a space of half an inch between. Since
the introduction of square straw bar and frame hives, these hives have
not been much in request. Considerable inconvenience is found to arise,
because the bars, being of unequal lengths, cannot be interchanged one
with the other.
The description given of Taylor's Amateur Hive, and mode of stocking
and furnishing it with guide-comb, apply to this hive. The large straw
hive raised up in the engraving is an outside case; the roof is a large
zinc cover. If placed in a bee-house, the outside case and zinc roof
are not required.
NEIGHBOUR'S UNICOMB OBSERVATORY HIVE.
This hive is well adapted for those persons who are desirous of having
the opportunity of closely examining the workmanship of the industrious
and interesting inmates. It is particularly intended for a window
recess or an indoor apiary, and will also be found an interesting
addition to the green-house. Bees cease to appear disturbed when
exposure to the light is continuous. This discovery enables the
bee-keeper to gain a full inspection. The hive should be screened
from the direct rays of the sun, which would worry the inmates, and
be otherwise prejudicial. An aperture should be cut in the sash
corresponding with the entrance to the hive, through which the bees
may find egress and ingress, without being able to gain access to the
apartment, as described for the ladies' observatory hive (page 78).
[Illustration]
The unicomb hive is constructed of so narrow a width between thin
plates of glass that it admits of one comb _only_ to be built, and, at
the same time, leaves space between the comb and the glass on either
side for the bees to pass and repass. It is thus made so that every bee
may be exposed to view. The queen forming the most prominent feature of
attention, she is readily distinguished by the greater length of her
body, as well as by the attention paid her by the other bees.
The mode of stocking this hive is as follows:--Procure a strong swarm,
if practicable, and let it be first hived into a common straw hive in
the usual way. Take care to make the necessary preparations previous
to the operation of stocking: for this purpose, at evening time,
place the hive on its side, oil the ground (having already spread a
sheet, or large white cloth, underneath); unfasten the side of the
hive which is hinged, turn this sash quite back, very gently lift the
straw hive containing the swarm; then, with a sudden shake, dash as
large a portion of the bees into the unicomb hive as can be done in a
few seconds. Have ready a feather or, better still (because firmer),
a goose-wing; with this, quickly brush the bees off the edges of the
frames, also from the rabbets against which the glass side closes, in
order to prevent killing any; then gently spread them, so that the
glass, when closed, shall not shut against the congregated mass in the
middle. When thus ready for closing up, which should be quickly done,
fasten the side, and turn the hive right end upwards, with the entrance
towards those bees that are outside. The bees will not, probably, have
all been ejected from the straw hive at the first brush, and will
require a few sharp raps on the cloth to clear the hive. The moving
mass now congregating without, upon discovering that so large a portion
of their companions have found a home, with (as is generally the case)
the queen safely housed, will hasten to join them. It is a pretty sight
to see the labourers crowding in like a little army, with their heads
pointing in the same direction, making for the desired home, which they
will slowly but surely enter, with fanning wings and a happy hum.
Considerable help may be afforded by gently collecting the stragglers
in a table-spoon, and shaking them off close to the entrance.
In about an hour, all the bees will have entered the hive, which may
now be bodily taken to the place previously made ready for it, and
which it is intended permanently to occupy,--a shelf, the size of the
bottom of the hive, with a sloping piece of wood four inches wide,
forms a firm bracket and a substantial stand,--these and all other
preparations, such as cutting the opening, fixing the alighting-board,
&c., having been previously accomplished when the hive was empty.
It will be as well to screen the hive from view for a few days, until
the bees become settled in their new domicile. Although this hive
is constructed of double glass, to keep up a more uniform degree of
warmth, still, from the cold nature of glass, and the close contact
into which the bees are brought with it, it is advisable to place
flannel between the outer shutters and the glass of the hive, on both
sides. Such precaution is found essential if the bees remain in this
hive during whiter, and very much adds to their comfort on cold nights
at most periods of the year. In the day time, in summer months, the
hive being of double glass, the whole may be fully exposed to view. If
the temperature of the apartment in which the hive stands be kept at 60
degrees, this extra attention will not be so needful. As soon as the
bees are settled, comb-building will immediately commence, and in about
two weeks' time there will be comb spreading over the whole hive. The
queen may be viewed depositing her eggs, and all the usual operations
of the rearing of brood, storing of honey, and the building of combs,
will be open to full inspection, with perfect ease to the spectator. As
an object of lively and permanent interest for the breakfast-parlour
or conservatory, the unicomb observatory hive may be regarded as
infinitely superior to an aquarium or fernery.
At the Exposition Universelle of 1855, in Paris, we exhibited a hive
of this description in full working; order. The bees left London on
the 5th of July of that year, and were placed in the Exposition on
the following morning. An entrance was made for them through the
side of the building, as before explained. Our bees had no national
antipathies, and they immediately sallied forth to their "fresh fields
and pastures new" in the Champs Elysees, the gardens of the Tuileries,
the Luxembourg, &c., whence they soon returned laden with luscious
store from French flowers.
The Jurors of the Exposition awarded us a prize medal for bee-hives.
WOODBURY UNICOMB HIVE.
[Illustration]
The Woodbury Unicomb Hive has many advantages over similar hives as
previously constructed. The engraving shows the interior compartment
divided into six; these are sis Woodbury frames. The inner sash opens,
to admit of hanging up the frames on the notches prepared for them. The
width of the hive between the glasses of the sashes is just sufficient
to admit of one thickness of comb, with space on each side for the
bees to pass and repass, the same as in Neighbour's unicomb. There is,
however, a great advantage in the use of this hive; with it, anyone
possessing a Woodbury box or straw bar and frame hive can readily
commence an unicomb, and as readily put the combs and bees back into
the square hive again. The outside shutters on each side are composed
of Venetian blinds, admitting daylight, but obscuring the rays of
the sun. We had the entrance made at one end, as represented in our
drawing; this alteration was made after the pattern of the hive from
which Mr. Woodbury allowed us to copy. His own was intended to stand
wholly out of doors, and had two central entrances, one on each side at
the bottom, the hive itself turning on a pivot.
When the hive was being examined on one side, the entrance was closed
by a piece of wood inserted in it; and when the other side was brought
round to be inspected, the piece of wood was withdrawn, and placed in
the opposite entrance. This was a most ingenious contrivance; but it
did not answer our purpose for indoors. When Mr. Woodbury sent us his
hive, we were preparing for the International Exhibition of 1862, and,
in placing it against the sides of the building, we followed our old
plan for ingress by having the entrance at the end. Since that time,
we have made a considerable improvement by adapting Mr. Woodbury's
cleverly contrived turn-table to suit our own hive. Like Mr. Woodbury's
hive, ours has two iron wheels, the one fixed to the bottom of the
hive, the other fixed to a stout board running the full length of the
hive; on these two wheels the whole hive turns. In the centre there is
an opening into the hive, with a passage-way running underneath, so
that the bees' entrance is in no way affected by the position of the
hive, which revolves, to suit the convenience of visitors inspecting
it. Should the queen, with her attendants, not be visible on one side,
the other side of the comb can be brought into full view, and examined
with the same facility as a picture, or as articles are inspected in
a shop window. Thus, in the unicomb observatory hive, the sovereign
mother, her train of servitors, the drones, with their aimless
movements, and the crowd of ever-busy workers--either building their
combs or storing honey--may be always seen, as presenting a veritable
_tableau vivant_.
Another improvement that we have made upon Mr. Woodbury's pattern
is, that of accommodating the frames; his was constructed before
frame-hives were in use, consequently it is only suitable for combs on
bars. Our adaptation has necessitated an increase in size. The outside
dimensions are nearly three feet square, and seven inches deep from
back to front. Provision is made at top for feeding, and for working
two small flat-top glasses for deprivation, which are protected by the
weather-board.
An alighting-board is placed at the centre, close under the entrance,
when the hive is located out-of-doors. When the hive is placed indoors,
a passage-way, about eighteen inches long, covered with glass, is fixed
to the entrance, the other end communicating with an opening in the
wall or sash; through this the bees find access, an alighting-board
being fixed outside the building. It is requisite that the passage-way
be about this length, in order to allow the hive to turn round clear of
the side of the building.
In the summer of 1863, we had ample proof of the success of this hive
during its exhibition at the annual show of the Bath and West of
England Agricultural Society at Exeter.[11] We selected six combs, and
packed them in one of the square box Woodbury bar and frame hives, and,
on arrival at Exeter, Mr. Woodbury assisted us in taking out the frames
and placing them in the unicomb. That being fixed against the boarded
side of a shed, we found the covered way a great convenience, and it
answered remarkably well; the bees did not seem to be inconvenienced by
having to travel through so long a passage. A glass covering admitted
a full view of the little labourers as they crowded in, and the sight
of them very much enhanced the interest of visitors examining the hive.
[Footnote 11: It may require explanation how it was that we took bees
to Exeter, which sounds something like "carrying coals to Newcastle."
The reason was this--the garden of our friend, Mr. Woodbury, at Mount
Radford, from which we could have been supplied, was so near to the
show yard, that he was apprehensive a large number of the bees would
return to their old hives. Our bees from a distance would, according to
their nature, return to their own hive, for bees, although they may be
moved miles away, take care to mark their new position, and are careful
to return to it. Mr. Woodbury lent us a small stock of his Ligurian
bees, and between it and our own hive the crowd of visitors divided
their attention.]
Since the time before mentioned, we have exhibited bees at the meetings
of the Bath and West of England Agricultural Society at Bristol, and
of the Royal Agricultural Society at Newcastle, in 1864. On both
occasions, further proof was given that this hive admirably answers
the purpose intended, and it afforded pleasure and interest to many
thousands of visitors.
The unicomb hive may be stocked in two ways, which have been previously
referred to. The bee-keeper may either select the comb upon which the
queen is found, and put it into the hive, and so form an artificial
swarm, or he may take six brood-combs from a hive, and so stock the
unicomb at once, which we did for the show at Exeter.
The former plan is, perhaps, the most advisable, because new comb has
to be built within the five frames; for, be it remembered, in this
case five empty frames must be put in. It is 9, better plan still,
if artificial combs are placed in each frame, so as to afford an
interesting opportunity of watching the formation of the cells therein.
The combs are sure to be dark in colour when taken from a stock-hive,
and new combs, being whiter, have a better appearance in the hive. The
comb upon which the queen was introduced may be taken away after the
artificial swarm has made combs within some of the other five frames;
when the queen is on one of the new combs, opportunity may easily be
taken for opening the hive and removing the old dark comb. The bees can
easily be shaken or brushed off the comb, and will return to the hive.
The comb, with the unhatched brood, may be deposited in any square hive
that needs strengthening. We mention this, to show how to obtain a hive
with entirely fine white comb.
If the possessor of a square Woodbury frame-hive wishes to start a
strong unicomb hive, and does not object to appropriate the stock, he
must take out of the Woodbury hive any six combs on the frames, and put
the unicomb in its place so as to receive all the returning bees that
happen to be abroad; the remaining four combs, supposing there are ten,
can be inserted in any other frame-hives in the garden in which there
may be vacancies.
We have had this hive in operation, in the manner last described,
during the summer of 1863, and found it to answer remarkably well. On
a lawn, placed on a suitable ornamental stand, it formed a pleasing
object, besides affording great interest and instruction.
In unicomb hives stocked with a natural swarm (as is generally the
plan), there is considerable difficulty in keeping the bees alive
through the winter. In a hive where the combs are removable, no loss
of bees need be occasioned. We do not recommend the hive we are now
describing as a winter residence for bees. For four months in the
year, when bees are most active, and when their operations are most
interesting, this hive may be brought into use, either of the two plans
before described being adopted. An artificial swarm should be put in
during May or June, and taken out, in the method before mentioned, and
then placed in the square box during the month of September; sometimes
it may do for a stock to be put in a month or so earlier, but it should
never be retained later in this hive. In October, we often have cold
nights; the bees and brood being in such close contact with the glass,
and not able to cluster as is their natural wont, suffer from exposure
to the variations of temperature. In some degree to moderate this, we
have used treble glass with a space between each square; greater warmth
is thus obtained, and the view is not intercepted. Opportunity should
be taken for cleaning the unicomb hive when empty, so as to be ready
for re-stocking as a new hive in the following summer. The unicomb
observatory hive is one which might have been suggested by the lines of
Evans:--
"By this blest art our ravished eyes behold
The singing masons build their roofs of gold,
And mingling multitudes perplex the view,
Yet all in order apt their tasks pursue;
Still happier they whose favoured ken hath seen
Pace slow and silent round, the state's fair queen."
THE STEWARTON, OR AYRSHIRE HIVE.
[Illustration]
The Stewarton Hive is so often spoken of, and in such favourable terms,
by bee-keepers, that we deem it necessary to give it a place here,
and to supply some explanation of its construction and management. We
consider this especially needful, as some of the principles of its
management are so imperfectly understood, that frequent mistakes are
made, and also because, for the convenience of bee-keepers, we keep a
supply of these hives on hand.
The name is derived from their having been first manufactured at
Stewarton, in Scotland; and they are still made so well, and at so
moderate a price in that country, that London workmen are unable to
compete in their manufacture. Our supply is therefore from that source;
so that, with a little addition for carriage, the price approximates
that of the makers themselves, affording a convenience to many of our
apiarian friends in being able to obtain these hives in London.
Our engraving shows the four boxes set up. These constitute the hive.
We will suppose that the young bee-keeper has just received the four
octagonal boxes, with the bundles of grooved slides (of which there
are nearly forty); about one half of these slides are short pieces,
similarly cut to the longer ones. These are to fill up the openings
where the slides are not put in, or are required to be withdrawn, as
hereafter explained. He will find himself in possession of four boxes
so neatly dove-tailed on the bevel, that, if he be of a mechanical
turn, he will not only be surprised at the way in which they are put
together, but also at the price for which they are offered. Three of
the boxes, A, B, C, technically called "body boxes," are precisely
similar, each being fourteen inches in diameter and five and a half
inches deep inside. Nine bars range along the top of each box. These
are not movable, but are so constructed to induce the correct and
regular building of the combs. The fourth box, D, is the depriving
box or super, is only four inches deep, and the same in diameter as
the others. This being the honey-box, it is furnished with seven wide
fixed bars, instead of nine, because, as stated at page 93, bees
construct deeper receptacles to contain the honey than for breeding
in: thus, should the queen go up into this compartment, she may find
the cells are too much elongated to enable her to reach the base, when
her body is inserted for the purpose of depositing an egg. We have
too much confidence in her majesty's sagacity to expect her to make
such an attempt in honey-cells thus elongated; doubtless she will only
look and pass on, seeking more suitable depositories, and confine
her nursery to those lower regions where she is welcome. The honey is
thus kept pure, and that which not unfrequently mars the qualify of a
super--viz., cells that either contain brood or have been bred in--is
prevented. Each box is furnished with two small windows, back and
front, closed by sliding shutters, by which opportunity is afforded for
inspecting the progress made, and also of knowing when the time has
arrived that the cells are filled and the box may be taken away.
Each of the boxes, A, B, C, is furnished with an entrance-way, four
inches wide, half an inch high, a wooden slide either wholly or
partially closing same, as required. When at work, the bees only need
one entrance open, and that at the lowest box. The long slides before
mentioned are pushed in to their respective receptacles from the back
of the hive, to close the openings between the bars; those of them
that are shorter will be seen to belong to the sides of the octagon,
and the ends are cut angular to suit the form of the box. A little
examination will suffice to show the right allotment of the slides, the
appropriation of which may be said somewhat to resemble the putting
together of a child's puzzle.
The box B must be left open at the interstices that correspond with the
box A, placed above, the little openings being closed by the insertion
of the ten sections of slides, thus leaving free communication inside
with the upper box A, and admitting of no outlet for the bees, except
at the entrance.
When the four boxes are placed above each other, the structure measures
twenty-two inches high.
The Scotch carpenters send no floor-board, and no covering or roof for
the top to shoot off the rain; they evidently expect that the purchaser
is provided with a shed or bee-house of some kind, and also with a
floor-board. Should the apiarian, however, not have these necessaries,
we can supply the deficiency.
The sides of the boxes are furnished with wooden buttons, which, when
turned round, keep each box exactly in its place above the other: there
are also projecting irons or screw heads for tying the two boxes A and
B together, preparatory to hiving the swarm; or if the boxes stand out
exposed, all may be thus secured, to prevent their being blown over by
high winds.
_Directions for Management._
Take the two boxes A and B, made one by the junction before mentioned,
and similarly inside by the free communication afforded. Shake the
swarm in as described at page 28, just as with a common cottage hive.
If the weather be favourable, these two boxes will be nearly filled in
ten days. To get the full advantage of the Stewarton hive the first
year, put two swarms into two body boxes, A and B; if the two are too
small, then add the other box C. Allow the bees to remain there till
they have nearly filled the body boxes with comb, which (with this
increased number of workers, and in favourable weather) should be from
five to ten days. Two swarms are seldom procurable the same day, so as
then to be joined together, and even if they were, there is a doubt
whether greater progress may not be attained by hiving a swarm a week
or so earlier than the other, so as to build comb and raise brood ready
for the reception of the new comers.
The second swarm is added best in the evening, after the bees have
ceased working. For this purpose spread a sheet on the ground, place
two sticks so as to prevent the box being close to the ground, then,
with a sudden knock, eject the bees of the second swarm on to the
cloth, and place the two body boxes that contain the earlier swarm over
the dislodged bees; these will, in the course of an hour or so, ascend
and become one family, and one of the queens will be speedily destroyed.
In the meantime, prepare the shallow honey-box D, by fixing small
pieces of worker guide-comb, of pure white colour, on the centre of
each side bar. If, however, a box of honey with neatly made, straight,
and quite regular comb be desired, a piece of this guide-comb must be
fixed to the centre of each bar. If guide-comb be unobtainable, strips
of the impressed wax sheets or artificial comb (hereafter described)
will be found excellent substitutes.[12]
[Footnote 12: The body boxes may be prepared in a similar manner.]
When selecting guide-comb, avoid combs with drone-cells; to fix these
is setting the bees a bad pattern. Honey stored in drone-combs has
more wax, and is coarser in appearance and taste. Having satisfied
yourself, by peeping in at the windows, and from symptoms at the
entrance, that the original boxes are well filled, place your prepared
honey-box on the top, draw a slide at each side of the middle box to
afford communication, and insert the little plugs. It is not so well to
withdraw the middle slides, because the queen is more likely to ascend
from the centre. When you notice that the bees have fairly commenced
work in the honey-box and are likely to keep to it, the remaining box
C may be added below the stock, which will afford additional room and
prevent swarming, exchanging the entrance to the newly-furnished box
and sliding in pieces wood to close the aperture of that above.
Should the bees begin making comb in the bottom box, draw two more
slides for freer access into the super, as there will then be little
risk of the queen ascending, having so much range for egg-laying in the
three lower boxes.
In very fine weather, a good swarm or stock will fill a honey-box in
the space of two weeks; but a much longer time is usually occupied.
The more quickly the box is filled, the purer will be the colour of
the comb and honey, because bees very much discolour their work when
they have it long on hand. Before taking off the honey-box, observe
particularly that the combs are well sealed at the windows, because, as
mentioned at page 83, this portion of the work is always left till the
last.
When you see that all is ready for the removal of a box, select
the middle of a fine day for the purpose (not omitting to don the
bee-armour). Draw out one or two of the slides, and give the bees a
few gentle puffs, either of fungus or of tobacco smoke, from the tube
fumigator, which will cause the majority of the bees to descend into
the body of the hive; then stop the communication, by pushing in the
slides. Next, with a spatula, make a slight opening for a piece of
strong thin twine at the front of the box, and immediately behind the
thread two thin wedges; with the two ends in hand, work the twine
gently forward, bringing the wedges, after, until the opposite side is
reached. This will remove any obstruction caused by the bees having
attached their combs to the top of the next box, and thus leave the
super entirely free for removal. It will be as well, for the reasons
stated at page 58, not to remove the box immediately. After waiting an
hour, the box may be taken off, and conveyed to a quiet place. Should
any bees remain, they will be glad, after their confinement, to escape
to the parent hive; or if you have an empty hive to put over, by
gently drumming the sides, the remaining bees will ascend and leave
the box at your disposal. The bees driven into the empty box may now
be shaken out in front of the mouth of the hive. Another plan is to
cut off the communication over night, and raise the hive on wedges, as
recommended to be adopted with the super (page 73).
Before winter sets in, the box C may be removed and the comb it
contains (if well filled) be used for consumption: if the comb be
empty, let it remain carefully preserved from moth and insects; it will
be invaluable next season. Empty comb may be thus preserved by tying
or pasting a piece of stout newspaper closely round the bottom, and
keeping the box in a dry place.
Feeding, when required, may be liberally pursued, by withdrawing two
slides and supplying a bottle-feeder. Enough food should be given in
the early autumn to last until spring.
The chief value of the Stewarton hive consists in the boxes being
shallow, so that the combs are more likely to be well filled down to
the base. This is a great advantage with supers, particularly when
required to be sent to a distance, as there is less likelihood of the
combs breaking down. A fine super of honey, that would be valuable, is
materially depreciated when it reaches its destination in a damaged
state, with the honey running from the cells. For the same reason,
when the weather is hot and the rays of the sun fall on the hive, the
combs might part from their foundations if there were no intermediate
bars, which is now the case in the stock-hive, composed as it is of two
boxes. If these two boxes were in one, the depth of each comb would be
twelve inches; and when filled with brood and honey, would probably
weigh 10 lbs. This is a great weight to be supported in hot summer
weather, when the wax is softened by the heat. Another distinguishing
feature that the Stewarton hive possesses is the use of the box C,
which, by giving increased room, as the season advances, prevents
what is often an annoyance to the apiarian, viz., a late swarm--too
late to be of any value, and impoverishing the stock by a division of
its numbers, thereby perhaps impeding the completion of the super.
A further advantage of the box c, is that it induces the bees (who
frequently hang in dusters about the entrance) to carry on their
labours instead of remaining in enforced idleness.
We often receive from Scotland magnificent boxes of honey; the fine
quality is no doubt to be attributed to good pasturage, and to the
fact of keeping the stocks strong (see page 19), by adopting the means
before hinted at; and thus having hives well stored and well populated
early in the season, so that they may betimes take full advantage of
supplies of nectar in the flowers. Early honey is generally the best in
colour.
The old proverb runs:--"It is the early bird that finds the worm."
The hive that is strong is certain to produce the most honey. To make
this plain, we will suppose that a bee-keeper has a weakly hive; it
will take some weeks, if not months, to grow populous; and as soon as
the strength of the hive has recovered, the honey season will have
advanced, if not ended, whilst the strong stocks have been able to take
full advantage of the supplies, having an abundance of labourers to
collect the honey and store it in supers for their master. To induce
the bees to build quickly, cover up the super with as much warm woollen
covering as you can, as recommended for glasses, page 65.
In fine seasons, and under good management, extra supers and body boxes
(the latter to be used as "nadirs") maybe required to place above and
below the supers and nadirs partly filled, in order to reap the full
benefit of the honey season; for with strong colonies one box after
another may be inserted, till the whole towers from six to ten boxes
high. This plan is, indeed, collecting honey while the sun shines,
but requires a greater amount of apiarian skill and good pasturage
to carry on in its entirety than is generally possessed. In other
words, we in the south may find it difficult to rival our accomplished
brother-apiarians north of the Tweed, for they do wonders with the
Stewarton hive.
HUBER'S HIVE.
To Francis Huber--not improperly styled the "Prince of Apiarians"--we
are indebted for more extensive and accurate observations on the
habits of the bee than have been contributed by all other observers
since the time of Aristotle.
During the early period of Huber's investigations, he prosecuted them
by means of single-comb hives, which allow of each side of the comb
being examined. He found, however, that there was one important defect.
The bees could not in these hives cluster together, which is their
natural method of withstanding the effects of a reduced temperature.
Huber hit upon the ingenious expedient of combining a number of
single-comb frames, so as to form one complete hive, which could be
opened, in order to expose any particular comb, without disturbing the
rest. From the manner of the opening and closing of this hive, it has
generally been called the "Leaf or Book Hive." The division separating
each comb is joined both back and front with "butt hinges," fastened
with a movable pin, on withdrawing which, at either side, each comb
and the bees on it may be inspected as easily as if in a single-comb
hive. Huber's leaf hive is thus in appearance, as if several ordinary
"History of England" backgammon chess-boards were set up on end
together. The floor-board on which the hive stands is larger than the
hive when closed, so as to allow of its being opened freely at any
particular "volume." An entrance-way for the bees is hollowed-out of
the floor-board as in other hives. There is a glass window in each end
of the hive, which is provided with a shutter.
There is, however, one serious objection to Huber's hive, which, though
not noticed by him or his careful assistant, has prevented its general
use--that is, the difficulty there is in closing it without crushing
some of the bees--a catastrophe which, by exasperating their comrades,
is certain to interfere with any experiments. There is no such risk
in the bar and frame hive, whilst in it every facility possessed by
Huber's is retained; so that we strongly recommend scientific apiarians
to use some kind of bar and frame hive in preference to Huber's. We
have here introduced a description of Huber's leaf hive (and should
be glad to exhibit one) for the sake of its historic interest, in
connection with apiarian science. The invention was invaluable for
Huber himself, and it suggested to other apiarians the adoption of the
present plan of vertical bars and frames.
The character of Huber and the circumstances under which he pursued his
observations are so remarkable, that we need scarcely apologize for
stating a few particulars respecting him here. He was born at Geneva,
in July, 1750, his family being in honourable station and noted for
talent. Just as he attained to manhood he lost his sight, and remained
blind to the end of his days. This apparently insuperable obstacle
in the way of scientific observation was overcome by the remarkable
fidelity with which Burnens, his assistant, watched the bees and
reported their movements to Huber. Madame Huber also, who, betrothed
to him before his calamity, had remained constant in her affection,
assisted in the investigations with great assiduity during their long
and happy wedded life. We quote the following from "Memoirs of Huber,"
by Professor de Candolle:--
"We have seen the blind shine as poets, and distinguish themselves as
philosophers, musicians, and calculators; but it was reserved for Huber
to give a lustre to his class in the sciences of observation, and on
objects so minute that the most clear-sighted observer can scarcely
perceive them. The reading of the works of Reaumur and Bonnet, and the
conversation of the latter, directed his curiosity to the history of
the bees. His habitual residence in the country inspired him with the
desire, first of verifying some facts, then of filling some blanks in
their history; but this kind of observation required not only the use
of such an instrument as the optician must furnish, but an intelligent
assistant, who alone could adjust it to its use. He had then a servant
named Francis Burnens, remarkable for his sagacity and for the devotion
he bore his master. Huber practised him in the art of observation,
directed him to his researches by questions adroitly combined, and,
aided by the recollections of his youth and by the testimonies of his
wife and friends, he rectified the assertions of his assistant, and
became enabled to form in his own mind a true and perfect image of
the manifest facts. 'I am much more certain,' said he, smiling, to
a scientific friend, 'of what I state than you are, for you publish
what your own eyes only have seen, while I take the mean among many
witnesses.' This is, doubtless, very plausible reasoning, but very few
persons will by it be rendered distrustful of their own eyesight."
The results of Huber's observations were published in 1792, in the form
of letters to Ch. Bonnet, under the title of "Nouvelles Observations
sur les Abeilles." This work made a strong impression upon many
naturalists, not only because of the novelty of the facts stated and
the excellent inductive reasoning employed, but also on account of the
rigorous accuracy of the observations recorded, when it was considered
with what an extraordinary difficulty the author had to struggle.
Huber retained the clear faculties of his observant mind until his
death, which took place on the 22nd of December, 1831. Most of the
facts relating to the impregnation of the queen, the formation of
cells, and the whole economy of the bee-community, as discovered
and described by Huber, have received full confirmation from the
investigations of succeeding naturalists.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
IV.--EXTERIOR ARRANGEMENTS AND APPARATUS.
BEE-HOUSE TO CONTAIN TWO HIVES.
There is no contrivance for protecting' hives from the weather so
complete as a bee-house: one which also admits of an easy inspection of
the hives ranged therein is especially convenient for lady bee-keepers.
[Illustration: Front View of Bee House.]
The folding; doors behind the bee-house have only to be opened, and
the hives are at once exposed to full view; then, by raising the
upper hive or cover, the glasses may be deliberately inspected without
molestation from the bees, and the progress made by the busy multitude
in building and filling their combs may be watched by the bee-keeper,
from day to day, with great and increasing interest. Under the roof
on each side are openings to act as ventilators, to allow the heated
air to escape. With the sun shining on the house and no escape of this
kind, the heat would be retained inside, and the temperature become
that of an oven.
[Illustration]
Here our engraving shows the back view of the bee-house, the interior
being furnished with two of our improved cottage hives. Two suspended
weights will be noticed; these are to balance the top hives which
cover the glasses; the cord for each runs on pulleys, so that the
covers can be easily raised and as easily shut down again when the
inspection is finished. We may here remark, that it is not well to keep
the glasses long exposed to full light and view.
The front of the bee-house being closely boarded, a passage-way is
contrived for the bees, by which they have egress and ingress, without
being able to gain access to the house. The hives must be kept close to
the front boarding of the house, to prevent the opening of any crevices
which the bees might mistake for the entrance to their hives, and so
find their way into the house. The front view of this bee-house shows
the ordinary contrivance for entrance; the sliding zinc entrances may
also be advantageously fixed, as shown in the engraving of a bee-house
to contain twelve hives. In many parts of the country, hives and honey
are sometimes stolen from the garden; the bee-houses we furnish have a
lock and key to prevent depredations of this kind.
Care must be taken to keep the bee-houses free from spiders and other
insects. In some districts, ants are numerous and troublesome. The plan
we recommend for excluding them is to put some pitch round the four
supports of the bee-house, or, better still, strips of loose flannel,
or other woollen material that is absorbent, which have previously
been soaked in lamp oil. We use sperm oil, as being the slowest-drying
oil we know of. A piece of string will keep the flannel close to the
wood and then neither ant nor other insect will pass up; so that Dy
this simple means the hives may, so to speak, be insulated, and placed
beyond their reach. As the oil dries up, it can easily be renewed. We
have found this an effectual remedy against these insidious enemies of
bees.
BEE-HOUSE TO CONTAIN TWELVE HIVES
[Illustration]
[Illustration: Back view of Bee-house, showing the Interior.]
Where economy of room is a consideration, we fit up bee-houses with a
double row of hives, one above the other. Our engravings show the back
and front of a house of this kind, having an ornamental zinc gutter to
prevent the wet from dripping on to the alighting-board.
When a number of hives are thus together, we colour the
alighting-boards differently, so that the bees may have a distinctive
mark by which each may know its own home, and not wander into its
neighbour's house. Bees readily enough receive a honey-laden labourer
into a hive; but if the wanderer be poor and empty, he will be promptly
repulsed, and may have to forfeit his life for his mistake. Queens
returning from their wedding trip are liable to mistake their hive if
all the entrances are so much alike that a noticeable difference is
not easily apparent. A queen entering a hive already supplied with
a fruitful sovereign would be certain to be killed. The loss to the
hive to which the queen belonged is a serious one. Hives are often
made queenless from this cause, and thereby reduced to utter ruin, the
bee-master perhaps attributing his failure to something altogether
different.
BEE-HOUSE TO CONTAIN NINE HIVES.
[Illustration]
This engraving represents a bee-house adapted for having a number of
hives in a limited space,--three rows of hives, one above the other.
We do not recommend a bee-house of this construction; it is difficult
to erect one to afford space for super hives, without its being so
inconveniently high as to be liable to be blown over by strong winds.
Hives thus located in a bee-house are not exposed to so much change of
temperature, and the stocks generally pass the winter well.
Here we may introduce the meditations of a German apiarian, who
describes the advantages of a bee-house for the bees, and his own
pleasure in watching over his pets in the winter, as they dwell so
comfortably and safely. It is true that Herr Braun associates still
choicer delights with the simple pleasures of bee-keeping, but as Mr.
Woodbury has not excluded the higher theme from his translation, we
need not hesitate to quote the whole:--
EVENING THOUGHTS IN JANUARY.
(_Translated from the German by_ Adalbert Braun.)
BY A DEVONSHIRE BEE-KEEPER.
Within my little garden
Stands also a bee-house,
And bees therein protected
From sly tomtit or mouse.
How quietly they're sitting!
And little trouble give,
Beyond the needful watching
That undisturbed they live--
That all, indeed, are living
In strong, unbroken health,
And, in the brood-nest hanging,
Consume their hoarded wealth--
That in the dwindling store-room
Sufficient stores remain,
Until the rape-plant donneth
Its blossom-dress again!
Thus daily do I visit
My garden and my bees,
Neglecting thereby often
My dinner and my ease.
Thank God! they all were humming
Within their hives to-day;
Nor could I find a symptom
Of hunger or decay.
And yet what ardent longing
I feel, O Spring, for thee!
My darlings' gleesome frolics
Are happiness to me!
How would this anxious longing
Consume my very breast,
But for a little being
So full of love and jest.
In heat or cold that prattles
Around me ev'ry day,
And still, the throes of longing
By commune blithe and gay.
Ye bee-keepers can value
A joy that is complete;
It is my wife--the darling
Whose lips are honey-sweet.
With e'en the richest bee-stand
Were joy and pleasure gone,
If my heart's queen were wanting
And I left here alone.
Thus, her I love and honour,
No difference have we,
But ofttimes go together
Our little pets to see.
Her kisses sweet removing
All sorrow from my breast,
And honied joys surrounding
Proclaim us highly blest.
_Mount Radford, Exeter._ T. W. Woodbury.
ORNAMENTAL ZINC COVER.
[Illustration]
The annexed engraving of the Ornamental Zinc Cover renders but little
description necessary. The illustration shows one of our improved
cottage hives on a stand. Three clumps of wood must be driven into the
ground, and the three iron rods supporting the covering made fast to
them with screws; there are screw holes in the feet of the iron rods
for the purpose. When thus secured, but little fear need be entertained
of its being blown over by high winds.
In the roof two pulleys are fixed, so that, by attaching a cord, the
upper hive covering the bell-glass supers may be raised with facility
for the purpose of observing the progress made by the bees.
The ornamental zinc cover will form a pleasing object in the
flower-garden, when placed in a suitable position on the grass plot.
It is painted green; the iron rods are of such a length as to support
the roof at a convenient height from the ground.
ZINC COVER.
[Illustration]
This is a simple and inexpensive covering for any cottage straw hive
when exposed in the garden. It fits close on to the upper hive, coming
sufficiently low to protect it from sun and rain, without obscuring the
whole hive.
These covers are painted green--a colour that is generally preferred.
TAYLOR'S ZINC COVER.
[Illustration]
This zinc cover, introduced by H. Taylor, Esq., for his cottage hive,
will also be found useful as a protection from wet, for many other
descriptions of round straw hives.
BELL GLASSES.
[Illustration]
To contain 10 lbs., 10 inches high, 7 inches wide.
To contain 6 lbs., 7 inches high, 5½ inches wide.
To contain 3 lbs., 5 inches high, 4 inches wide.
These bell glasses are used in the hives before described. The largest
is for Nutt's hive; the middle-sized is for our improved cottage hive;
the smallest glass is so very small that it is not often used, and we
do not recommend it. Bees will generally fill a middle-sized glass
quite as soon as one so small as this.
TAYLOR'S BELL GLASSES.
[Illustration]
These glasses have been introduced by Mr. Taylor, and are recommended
as preferable to deep narrow glasses. The drawings will show that
they are straight at the sides, flat at the top inside, with a knob
outside to take hold by, through which is a half-inch opening to admit
a ventilating tube. The larger is six inches deep, twelve inches wide;
smaller, five inches deep, nine and a half inches wide.
[Illustration]
The late Mr. J. H. Payne, of Bury, author of the "Bee-keeper's Guide"
introduced another glass. It has a three-inch hole in the centre, the
purpose of which is to tempt bees to produce additional and larger
stores of honey. It is to be used as follows:--When a bell glass is
half or quite filled, raise it, and place Payne's glass over the hole
of the stock-hive, with the filled glass on it, over the three-inch
hole. The bees will bring their combs through, and thus Mr. Payne found
that they would store more honey than if the bell glass were removed
and another empty one put in its place. Of course, the first glass must
be smaller in diameter than Payne's glass, so as to rest upon it.
FLAT-TOPPED GLASS.
This is a glass super, to be placed on the hive in a similar way to
the bell glasses already alluded to. It has the advantages of being
straight at the sides, flat at top, and without a knob; so that when
filled it may be brought on to the breakfast table, inverted, on a
plate. The glass lid shown in the engraving forms a cover, and fits
over outside, so as not to interfere with the combs within. These
flat-top glasses, like those with a knob, have a hole through which a
zinc ventilating tube is inserted. Dimensions, six and three-quarter
inches wide, five inches high.
[Illustration]
GUIDE-COMB FOR GLASSES.
In some of our previous allusions to the best mode of inducing bees to
commence working in glasses, we have recommended attaching guide-comb.
We will now more particularly explain how this attraction can be best
applied. We have already shown how bees may be induced to make use of
guide-combs fixed to bars, and the same principle is applicable to
glasses. These may be filled, with great regularity, by adopting the
following directions, which, we believe, have never before appeared in
print:--
Procure a piece of clean new empty worker honey-comb, which has not
had honey in it (because honey will prevent adhesion to the glass);
cut it into pieces of about three-quarters of an inch square. Gently
warm the exterior of the glass (this we find is best done by holding
the glass horizontally for a short time over the flame of a candle);
then apply one of the pieces of empty comb inside at the part warmed,
taking care, in fixing it, that the pitch or inclination of the cells
is upwards--in fact, place the guide-comb in the same relative position
that it occupied in the hive or glass from which it was taken. There is
some danger of making the glass too warm, which will cause the comb to
melt and the wax to run down the side, leaving an unsightly appearance
on the glass; this should be carefully avoided, and a little experience
will soon enable the operator to determine the degree of warmth
sufficient to make the comb adhere without any of it being melted. It
is hardly necessary to state that only the very whitest combs ought to
be used. A short time should be allowed before changing the position
of the glass, so that it may cool sufficiently to hold the comb in
its place. Six or eight pieces may thus be fixed, so that, when the
glass is filled, it will present a star shape, all the combs radiating
from the centre. The annexed engraving shows the appearance of a glass
as worked by the bees, in which guide-combs were fixed in the manner
described above. The drawing was taken from a glass of our own filled
after being thus furnished.
[Illustration]
In the Old Museum at the Royal Gardens, Kew, may be seen a Taylor's
glass, presented by us, some of the combs in which are elongated on
the outside to the breadth of six inches. We believe, that not only
does a glass present a much handsomer appearance when thus worked--and
will, on that account, most fully reward the trouble of fixing
guide-comb--but that more honey is stored in the same space, and in
less time than if the glass be placed on the hive merely in a naked
condition for the bees to follow their own devices.
This mode of fixing guide-comb does not solely apply to the
above-shaped glass, but is equally useful for all kinds of glasses. It
is introduced in connection with this glass because, from its having a
flat top and no knob, the regularity is more clearly apparent.
The working of bees in the bell glasses illustrates how tractable their
disposition really is, if only scope be allowed for the due exercise
of their natural instinct. They have no secrets in their economy, and
they do not shrink from our constant observation as they daily pursue
their simple policy of continuous thrift and persevering accumulation.
Yet it is only owing to the labours of successive inventors that
we are now enabled to watch "the very pulse of the machine" of the
bee-commonwealth:--
"Long from the eye of man and face of day.
Involved in darkness all their customs lay,
Until a sage well versed in Nature's lore,
A genius formed all science to explore;
Hives well contrived, in crystal frames disposed.
And there the busy citizens disclosed."
Murphy's _Vaniere_.
[Illustration: Exterior of an Apiary.
As originally erected in the Zoological Gardens, Regent's Park.]
[Illustration: Interior of an Apiary.
May be taken as suggestive for the construction or appropriation of
rooms for the larger Apiaries in summer-houses or other out-buildings.]
THE NEW BOTTLE-FEEDER.
[Illustration]
It has long been acknowledged that the best mode of feeding bees is
through an opening at the top of the stock-hive. The new bottle-feeder
is a simple and good means of administering food when a stock requires
help in that way, as bees can take the food from it without leaving
the hive. Any kind of hive that has an opening at the top may thus be
fed. Another important feature is the cleanliness with which liberal
feeding can be accomplished; and few operations require more care than
does feeding. If liquid sweet is left hanging about the hive, it tempts
robber-bees; and when once the bees of an apiary have had a taste,
there is no knowing where their depredations will stop: they resolutely
attack and endeavour to rob other hives, fighting and killing one
another to a considerable extent. Even if no hives be completely
destroyed, weakness from loss of numbers will be the portion of most,
if not of all, the hives in the garden.
The morals of our favourites are here a good deal at fault, for the
stronger hives, when their inordinate passion is thus stirred up by
the carelessness or want of knowledge of the bee-keeper, attack and
prey upon the weaker ones. To be "forewarned is to be forearmed"--and
"prevention is better than cure." We strongly recommend closely
covering up the feeder; one of the middle-size bell glasses put over
it makes a close-fitting cover, should the regular cover to the hive
not be sufficiently tight. When bees are not kept in a bee-house, and
are, on that account, more accessible, this extra care is particularly
needed. The right time for feeding is in the autumn or spring. As
stated at page 76, it is requisite to ascertain the condition of the
hive at Michaelmas, and, if wanting, the deficiency can then be made
up.[13] It is not wise to defer feeding until later in the season,
because it is important that, when the food is placed b the cells, the
bees should seal it up; and a tolerably warm temperature is required to
enable them to secrete the wax for the delicately-formed lids of the
cells. If the food remained unsealed, there is danger of its turning
sour, and thereby causing disease among the bees. It is not well to
feed in mid-winter or when the weather is very cold: bees at such times
consume but little food, being in a state of torpor, from which it is
better not to arouse them.
[Footnote 13: A much greater quantity of food will have to be
administered than the actual weight required to be furnished, because
there is a very considerable decrease after it is taken by the bees.]
A little food in the spring stimulates the queen to lay more
abundantly, for bees are provident and do not rear the young so rapidly
when the supplies are short. In this particular, the intelligence of
bees is very striking; they have needed no Malthus to teach them that
the means of subsistence must regulate the increase of a prosperous
population:--
"The prescient female rears the tender brood
In strict proportion to the hoarded food."
Evans.
Judgment has, however, to be exercised by the apiarian in giving
food, for it is quite possible to do _mischief by over-feeding_. The
bees, when over-fed, will fill so many of the combs with honey, that
the queen, in the early spring, cannot find empty cells in which to
deposit her eggs, and, by this means, the progress of the hive is much
retarded,--a result that should be guarded against. The following
directions will show how the bottle-feeder is to be used:--Fill the
bottle with liquid food; apply the net, affixed by an india-rubber
band, over the mouth; place the block over the hole of the stock-hive,
invert the bottle, the neck resting within the hole in the block; the
bees will put their tongues through the perforations and imbibe the
food, thus causing the bottle to act on the principle of a fountain.
The bottle being glass, it is easy to see when the food is consumed.
The piece of perforated zinc is for the purpose of preventing the bees
from clinging to the net, or escaping from the hive when the bottle is
taken away for the purpose of refilling. A very good syrup for bees
may be made by boiling 6 lbs. of honey with 2 lbs. of water, for a few
minutes; or loaf sugar, in the proportion of 3 lbs. to 2 lbs. of water,
answers very well when honey is not to be obtained.
ROUND BEE-FEEDER.
[Illustration]
Round bee-feeders are made of zinc and earthenware, eight inches
across, three inches deep. The projection outside is a receptacle for
pouring in the food; the bees gain access to the feeder through a
round hole, which is placed either at the centre or nearer one side,
whichever may best suit the openings on the top of the stock-hive.
The feeder occupies a similar position to that of the glasses or cap
hives in the gathering season. A circular piece of glass, cut so as to
fit into a groove, prevents the bees escaping, and retains the warmth
within the hive, whilst it affords opportunity for inspecting the bees
when feeding.
The feeders were originally only made of zinc; but some bee-keepers
advised the use of earthenware, and a few have been made to meet the
wishes of those who give the preference to that material.
When the bees are fed from above in this manner, the feeder is kept at
a warm temperature by the heat of the hive. In common hives, cottagers
feed the bees by pushing under the hive thin slips of wood scooped out,
into which the food is poured. This plan of feeding can only be had
recourse to at night, 'and the pieces of wood must be removed in the
morning. By feeding at the top of the stock-hive any interruption of
the bees is avoided. For further instructions on this head, see the
directions given for using the bottle-feeder.
ZINC FOUNTAIN BEE-FEEDER.
[Illustration]
We have invented the fountain bee-feeder, in order that a larger supply
of liquid food might be given to a hive than is practicable with the
round feeder.
The liquid honey is poured in at, the opening, which unscrews; whilst
being filled, the inside slide, closing the opening through which
the food passes into the feeding-pan, should be shut down. When the
reservoir is filled, the screw is made fast, and, the slide being
withdrawn, a wooden float, pierced with small holes, through which the
bees take the food, forms a false bottom, and rises and falls with the
liquid. This feeder, being on the siphon principle, like a poultry
or bird water-fountain, is supplied from the reservoir until that is
empty. A piece of glass is fixed in the side of the reservoir, in order
that the bee-keeper may see when it is emptied. A flat piece of glass
on the top prevents the bees from escaping, and through it they may be
inspected whilst feeding. The bees find access to the feeder on to the
perforated float through the central round hole, which is placed over a
corresponding hole in the stock-hive.
HONEY CUTTERS.
[Illustration]
Honey cutters are used for removing comb from boxes and glasses without
damaging it. The flat-bladed knife is for disconnecting the combs from
the sides; the hook-shaped one is for the same purpose, to be applied
to the top or horizontal part of the box or glass.
BOX FUMIGATOR.
[Illustration]
This fumigator is a tin box, somewhat like a pepper-box upon a foot.
It is a simple adaptation of the fumigating apparatus described by Mr.
Nutt, and is used in the following manner:--Have a straw hive or other
vessel ready that will match in circumference the hive intended to be
fumigated. If the empty hive have a conical top, it will not remain
crown downwards without a rest; in this case, it will be convenient to
invert it on a pail. Having ascertained that the hive to be operated
upon and the empty one in its reversed position nearly match in size,
take half a packet of the prepared fungus, fire it well, and place it
in the box or fumigator; place this in the centre of the empty hive,
then bring the occupied hive directly over, so as to receive the fumes
of smoke. To keep all close, put a wet cloth round the place where
the two hives meet. In a minute or two, the bees may be heard dropping
heavily into the lower empty hive, where they lie stupefied. After a
little while, the old hive may be tapped upon to make the bees fall
more quickly. On removing; the upper hive, the bees from it will be
found lying quiet at the bottom of the lower one. Place a sheet on the
ground, and spread the bees on it; then, with a feather, sort them
over, in order to pick out the queen-bee. As soon as the queen is
found, pour the rest of the lethargic swarm from off the sheet back
into the inverted hive again. The stupefied bees must now be sprinkled
freely with a syrup made of honey and water, or sugar and ale boiled
together. Some' apiarians recommend a few drops 'of peppermint to be
mixed with the syrup, in order to drown the peculiar odour which is
special to each hive of bees,--this is more necessary when two-hives of
bees are fumigated, and whilst under the influence of smoke are well
mixed together. The hive containing the bees with which it is intended
to unite the stupefied bees must now be placed on the top of that
'containing the latter, just as the hive was from which they have come.
A wet cloth must be fastened round the two hives, so as to prevent any
of the bees from escaping. The hives in this position must be placed
where they are not likely to be knocked down or meddled with. The fresh
bees in the upper hive, attracted by the scent of the bees besmeared
with honey, go down and commence licking off the sweets from the
sleepy ones. The latter gradually revive, when all get mingled together
and ascend in company to the upper hive, where they live as if they had
not been separate families. The two hives should be left undisturbed
for twenty-four hours, then the upper hive may be removed and placed
immediately on the spot from whence it was brought.
The reason the queen is recommended to be taken is to prevent any
fighting. She should be kept alive and fed as long as she will live, in
case any harm should befall the sovereign of the other community.
TUBE FUMIGATOR.
[Illustration]
The tube fumigator[14] is useful for several purposes. When a
frame-hive has to be disturbed it is requisite to raise the lid and
blow a little smoke into the hive, so as to check the angry passions
of the bees. If it be desirable to stupefy the bees, ignited fungus
must be placed in the box and the flattened end applied to the
entrance of the hive; the smoke is then blown in, either with bellows
or by applying the mouth of the operator, taking care to close all
openings through which it can escape. The bees fall down stupefied,
generally in about ten minutes; but the effect varies according to the
populousness of the hive and the quantity of comb in it. The projected
operations must now be performed speedily, as activity will soon be
regained. See preceding directions.
[Footnote 14: This fumigator will be found to possess many advantages
over the box fumigator before mentioned.]
THE BEE DRESS OR PROTECTOR.
[Illustration]
All operations connected with the removal or the hiving of bees should
be conducted with calmness and circumspection. Bees, although the
busiest of creatures, entertain a great dislike to fussiness in their
masters, and become irritable at once if the apiarian allows them to
see that he is in a hurry. Hence, there is great advantage in having
the face and hands covered whilst at work amongst the bees; for when
the operator knows he cannot possibly be stung, he can open his hives,
take out the combs, gather in his swarms, or take the honey, with
all the deliberation of a philosopher. Various kinds of bee-dresses
have been contrived; one that we keep ready in stock is of a very
simple construction. It is made of strong _black net_, in shape like
an inverted bag, large enough to allow of a gentleman's wide-awake or
a lady's hat being worn underneath. The projection of the hat or cap
causes the dress to stand off from the face, and the meshes, of the
net, though much too small for a bee to penetrate, are wide enough
to allow of clear vision for the operator. An elastic band secures
the dress round the waist; the sleeves also, made of durable black
calico, are secured at the wrists by a similar method. The hands of the
bee-master may be effectually protected with a pair of india-rubber
gloves, which should be put on before the dress is fastened round the
wrists. This kind of glove is regularly used by photographers, and
allows of greater ease in manipulation than any other description.