DEPARTURES FROM BOURGES--THE CHÂTEAU OF MEHUN--THE DEATH
OF CHARLES VII.--THE VALLEYS OF TOURAINE--ROADS BY THE
LOIRE--ENTRANCE TO TOURS
After luncheon in Bourges, we set out for Tours, bidding the old city
a reluctant farewell. Jean's interest in his country seems great,
and he is always delighted when I bid him slow down or stop to visit
some spot in passing. Ten miles out from Bourges we do so to inspect
all that is left of the Castle of Mehun-sur-Yèvre where Charles VII.
passed many years of his life with Agnes of Sorel, the earlier ones in
indolence and the latter in horror of Louis, until, as I have stated,
he starved himself to death for fear of poison by that same son. The
accompanying illustration shows this château as it stands to-day. It
suffered in the Revolution, but not until 1812 were the rooms of Agnes
and the King destroyed. To-day two of the towers of the castle alone
remain to testify to its former state. They are majestic structures
built of very beautiful granite, rising in massive grandeur from the
bosom of the swift flowing Yèvre, and on the whole, are the finest
towers I have seen in France. We glide away through a stately gateway
and off on our ride to Tours through the province of Touraine. It is,
of course, beautiful. We are in the valley of the Cher almost the
entire distance. Picturesque old towns and châteaux smile upon us from
every nook and hill, and the river sings merrily. Yonder is Chenonceaux
with its fantastic pinnacles and odd construction spanning the river. I
visited it years ago before the old furniture had been sold and when it
stood unchanged as it had been for centuries, so I do not care to see
it now when it would be found full of modern stuff, a Court dame in an
Edgeware Road frock, as it were.
Towards three, the towers of Tours Cathedral and the older tower of St.
Martin's loom up before us and as we mount to the summit of a hill the
city lies spread out before us. Here at the junction of the Cher and
the Loire our route is just above the water, a long smooth road with
no trees, winding away before us, over which the auto flies as though
anxious to reach its goal and have done with the day's journey.
We enter the busy streets of the city, and passing on to the Hôtel de
l'Univers, we leave mediæval France and rural life behind us. Here all
is bustle and roar. How the times have changed the place; When I first
knew Tours it was a sleepy old town where people came to rest and to
learn French. It was also a cheap place in which to live.
Now, with the coming of autos, all that is gone. This hotel is one
of the most expensive in France and the city roars with the passing
machines. There are twenty in and around this house now, making it at
times difficult to be heard and most unpleasant. This is on the highway
to Spain and the châteaux bring many travellers to Touraine. It is a
singular sight to see an auto puffing and snorting just within the arch
of an ancient castle with the teeth of the portcullis projecting above
and seemingly about to descend upon it,--but--letters and papers from
home drive thoughts of Europe off and away and I spend the rest of the
day back in my own land once more and dream of it all night long.