CHESTER CATHEDRAL.
PREVIOUS to the Roman conquests, the Britons were accustomed to celebrate
the rites of Druidism; but as it was the custom of the Romans to carry
into the lands they conquered not only their civil polity, but also their
religion, the gods of the Pantheon became consequently the gods of our
ancestors. Near the existing memorials of Druidical superstition there
arose the majestic fanes of a more polished mythology. At Bath there is
said to have been a temple dedicated to Minerva, while on the site now
occupied by the splendid cathedral of St. Paul there was a temple to
Diana. It appears, from a passage in King’s ‘Vale Royal,’ there was a
tradition generally accepted in his day, that on the present site of
Chester Cathedral was a temple dedicated to Apollo, during the period
that the city was inhabited by the Legionaries.
“I have heard it,” he says, “from a scholar residing in the city, when I
was there, anno 1653, that there was a temple dedicated to Apollo in
olden time, in a place adjoining to the Cathedral Church, by the constant
tradition of the learned.”
We are not aware that the supposition is capable of being verified by any
existing record; but when we take into consideration the policy generally
pursued by the Romans in subjugating a country, it seems to be
countenanced by strong probability. With this form of Paganism, however,
there came zealous men, of true apostolic stamp, whose earnest
inculcation of vital principles accelerated the progress of a better
faith. So conspicuous had that progress become early in the third
century, that Tertullian, in his work written against the Jews, A.D. 209,
states that “even those places in Britain hitherto inaccessible to the
Roman arms, have been subdued by the gospel of Christ.”
The ground on which the temple of Apollo once stood (if the tradition be
trustworthy) was occupied, early in the second century, by a monastery
dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, “which was the mother church and
burial place to all Chester, and seven miles about Chester, and so
continued for the space of three hundred years and more.” To this
monastery (according to Bradshaw the monk) the relics of St. Werburgh,
daughter of Wulphere, King of Mercia, were removed from Hanbury in 875,
for fear of an incursion of the Danes, and here re-buried with great
pomp; a ceremony usually called “the translation of the body.” The same
author informs us that the army of Griffin, King of Wales, was stricken
with blindness for their sacrilegious boldness, in attempting to disturb
these sainted remains. This, and other reputed miracles of St. Werburgh,
appear to have induced the celebrated Ethelfleda, Countess of Mercia, to
translate the monastery of St. Peter and St. Paul to the centre of the
city, and to erect on its site a convent or monastery of secular nuns,
dedicated to St. Werburgh and St. Oswald. Earl Leofric was a great
benefactor to this foundation, having repaired its decayed buildings at
his own expense: and in 1093, when (says Rodolphus Glaber) “princes
strove _à vie_ that cathedral churches and minsters should be erected in
a more decent and seemly form, and when Christendom roused, as it were,
herself, and, casting away her old habiliments, did put on every where
the bright and white robe of the churches.” Hugh Lupus expelled the
canons secular, and laid the foundation of a magnificent building, the
remains of which are still existing; it was established by him as an
Abbey of Benedictine Monks from Bec in Normandy, to pray (as the
foundation charter expresses it) “for the soul of William their King, and
those of King William his most noble father, his mother Queen Maud, his
brothers and sisters, King Edward the Confessor, themselves the founders,
and those of their fathers, mothers, antecessors, heirs, parents, and
barons, and of all Christians as well living as deceased.” The
confirmation charter by the second Ranulf (surnamed De Gernon or
Gernons), Earl of Chester, in which the grant of Hugh Lupus is
recapitulated, is in the possession of the Marquis of Westminster, by
whose kindness this most important and interesting instrument has been
lent for the use of the Archæological Association, and has been published
in the pages of their journal. It is most beautifully written in columns
or pages, for the facility of reading. The charter occupies nine, and
commences with the copy of the original grant of “Hugone Cestreasi
comite, anno ab incarnatione Domini millesimo nonugesimo” to the Abbey of
St. Werburgh, which was witnessed by Anselm, Archbishop of Canterbury,
followed by the grants of several of the other witnesses, and it
concludes by the confirmation of them all by the second Ranulf: (Ego
secundus Ranulfus comes “Cestrie concedo et confirmo hos omnibus
donationes quos mei antecessores vel barones eor’m dederunt,”) with
additional grants from himself. Anselm, Abbot of Bec, afterward
Archbishop of Canterbury, regulated the new foundation, and appointed
Richard, his chaplain, the first abbot.
Hugh Lupus, following the example of most of his predecessors, lived a
life of the wildest luxury and rapine. At length, falling sick from the
consequence of his excesses, and age and disease coming on, the old
hardened soldier was struck with remorse; and—an expiation common enough
in those days—the great Hugh Lupus took the cowl, retired in the last
state of disease into the monastery, and in three days was no more.
The Abbey was so richly endowed by the founder and his successors, that
at the dissolution its revenues amounted to no less a sum than £1,073
17s. 7d. per annum.
On the general dissolution of the monasteries, Chester was erected into
an independent bishopric, and St. Werburgh’s was converted into a
Cathedral Church, which it has ever since remained. It was dedicated to
Christ and the Blessed Virgin Mary; and a dean and six prebendaries
installed in it, Thomas Clarke, the last abbot, being appointed the first
dean.
The principal portions of this venerable pile have been erected at
different periods from the fourteenth to the sixteenth century, although
there are some parts which bear indubitable marks of a much earlier
origin; the greater part, perhaps, belongs to the fourteenth or fifteenth
century, when the richly decorated style of Gothic architecture was at
its zenith in this country. The Cathedral, from whatever side it is
viewed, presents a massive appearance, and exhibits a pleasing variety of
styles, in accordance with the taste of different ages. Mr. Asphitel has
said that he found beauties which grew on him more and more at every
visit. The Norman remains are extremely fine—there is work of all kinds
of great beauty—and there are the most curious and instructive
transitions from style to style that perhaps were ever contained in one
building.
Its general style may be termed the Norman-Gothic. It has been generally
supposed that there are also some remaining specimens of the Saxon; but
Mr. Asphitel, in an interesting lecture delivered before the British
Archæological Association, stated that he could not, from the most minute
research, discover any portion of the Saxon church; he considered it
possible there might be some portions in the foundations, but none were
visible.
The west front is said to have been the work of Abbot Ripley, who was
appointed to the abbacy in 1485. It is now in an unfinished state, and
it seems more than probable that there was an intention to form two
western towers. The foundation of them was laid with much ceremony by
Abbot Birchensaw in 1508, the Mayor being then present; but the project
was abandoned, most likely for want of funds: had the original design
been executed, says Winkle, it would not have been very imposing. The
west entrance is a singular and beautiful composition: the door itself is
a Tudor arch, enclosed within a square head; the spandrils are filled
with rich and elegant foliations; the hollow moulding on the top is deep
and broad, and filled with a row of angels, half-lengths; all this is
recessed within another Tudor arch, under another square head, with plain
spandrils of ordinary panelling. On each side of the door are four
niches, with their usual accompaniments of crocketted canopies,
pinnacles, and pendants; and instead of brackets, the statues formerly
stood on pedestals, with good bases and capitals. Above this entrance is
the great western window of the nave, deeply and richly recessed; it is
of eight lights, with elaborate tracery of the kind most common in the
latest age of the pointed style. The arch of the window is much
depressed, and has above it a flowing crocketted canopy; the gable has no
parapet, but is finished off with a simple coping; the flanking-turrets
are octagonal, and have belts of panelled tracery and embattled parapets.
Leaving the west front, and turning to the south, a rich and deep porch
presents itself behind the Consistory Court; the porch is flanked by
buttresses, which once had pinnacles. The entrance is under a Tudor arch
within a square head, the spandrils richly panelled; over the square head
is a broad belt of quatrefoil panelling; above that a hollow moulding,
adorned with the Tudor flower; above this are two flat-headed windows of
two lights each, with a deep niche between them, resting on a projecting
bracket; the statue is of course gone, but the projecting and richly
decorated canopy remains, on both sides of which the wall above is
adorned with two rows of panelling; the open embattled parapet, which
once crowned the whole, has disappeared. The south side of the nave and
its aisle is plain, but not without dignity; the windows are all pointed,
and of perpendicular character; those of the aisle have straight
canopies, with projecting buttresses between, which still have niches,
and once had both pinnacles and statues; the aisle has no parapet. The
windows of the clerestory are unusually large and lofty, and their
canopies are flowing in form, but perfectly plain and without finials;
they have no buttresses between them, and the parapet is very shallow and
quite plain.
The next feature of the Cathedral is a very singular one, and, indeed,
unique—viz., the south wing of the transept. It is no uncommon case to
find the two portions of the transept unlike each other in some respects;
but in no other instance are they so perfectly dissimilar as at Chester.
Here the south wing is nearly as long as the nave, and of equal length
with the choir, and considerably broader than either, having, like them,
aisles on both sides; while the north, which probably stands on the
original foundations, has no aisles, is very short, and only just the
breadth of one side of the central tower. The east and west faces of
this south portion of the transept are nearly similar. The aisles have
no parapet; the windows are pointed, of four lights each, with late
decorated tracery and small intervening buttresses. The clerestory has a
parapet similar to that of the nave; the windows are pointed, large, and
lofty, with perpendicular tracery and two transoms. The south front of
this transept, flat at top, is flanked with square embattled turrets and
buttresses, and has a large window of the perpendicular age, filling up
nearly all the space between them. The south face of the aisles, on each
side, have pointed windows and sloping tops, without parapet, but flanked
by double buttresses at the external angles, without pinnacles.
The south face of the choir, with its aisle, is in nearly all respects
similar to the south portion of the transept; but the aisle is lengthened
out beyond the choir, and becomes the side aisle of the Lady Chapel, and
has an octangular turret near the east end, with embattled parapet, and
beyond it a plain, heavy, clumsy buttress; the sloping parapet of the
east face of this aisle meets at the top the flat plain parapet of the
most eastern compartment of the Lady Chapel, which projects beyond the
aisle to that extent. The windows of the Lady Chapel are all pointed,
and of good perpendicular character; the projecting portion has double
buttresses at the external angles, and the eastern face has a low gable
point. This chapel is very little higher than the side aisles of the
choir, the east face of which is seen over it, with a large lofty pointed
window, with perpendicular tracery and several transoms, flanked with
octagonal turrets engaged, and terminated with something like domes of
Elizabethan architecture. The parapet of this east face of the choir is
flat. The north side of the Lady Chapel is similar to the south; the
choir and its aisles exhibit features of an early English character on
this side, but the Chapter-room, which is a small building, of an oblong
form, and also of early English architecture, conceals a considerable
portion. Over its vestibule and the arched passage leading into the east
walk of the cloister, is seen the large window in the north front of the
transept; the arch is much depressed, the tracery very common and plain,
and it has two transoms; the walls of this wing of the transept are very
plain, flat at top, and no parapet. The whole north side of the nave can
be seen only from the cloister-yard. The south walk of the cloister is
gone, and in the wall of the aisle, below the windows, are still seen
several enriched semicircular arches resting on short cylindrical
columns, evidently belonging to the original church of Hugh Lupus. The
windows of the aisle are Tudor arched, with the ordinary tracery of this
period; but, owing to the cloister once existing beneath, are necessarily
curtailed of half their due length: there is a thin, flat buttress
between each; the aisle has no parapet. The clerestory is lofty, and the
windows pointed, and not so much depressed as those in the aisle beneath:
they are not so lofty as those in the south side, nor have they any
canopies. There is a thin buttress between each, without pinnacles, and
the parapet is quite plain, but not so shallow as that on the south side.
The central tower is perhaps the best external feature of this Cathedral,
it is indeed only of one story above the roof ridge, but it is loftier
than such towers usually are; in each face of it are two pointed windows,
divided down the middle with a single mullion, with a quatrefoil at the
top, and all of them having flowing crocketted canopies with finials. At
each of the four angles of the tower is an octagonal turret engaged, all
of which, like the tower itself, are terminated with an embattled
parapet.
[Picture: The Cloisters, Chester Cathedral]
On entering the interior, through the west doorway into the nave, “some
disappointment and regret,” says the same authority, “cannot but be felt:
here is no vaulted roof, but a flat ceiling of wood, resting on brackets
of the same material, slightly arched, which gives the nave the
appearance of having less elevation than it really possesses; for the
naves of many much more magnificent cathedrals are not so lofty as this
by several feet, but by being vaulted, their apparent height is
increased.” The stone vaulting appears to have been actually commenced,
and was probably interrupted by the dissolution: it is to be regretted
that the work was not completed, as it would have given to the nave a
much more imposing effect. The north wall of the nave, to the height of
the windows, is Norman work, and contains, on the side of the cloisters,
six tombs, where, as it appears from an old MS. written on the back of an
old charter, now in the British Museum, the early Norman Abbots are
interred. Under a wide arch sunk in the south wall, which, from the
ornaments attached to the pillar near it, appears part of the original
building, is a coffin-shaped stone, with a cross fleury on the lid, over
the remains of some abbot. Nearly opposite to this is an altar tomb, the
sides of which are ornamented with Gothic niches, with trefoil heads, and
with quatrefoils set alternately, the quatrefoils being also alternately
filled with roses and leopards’ heads; the lid slides, and discloses the
lead coffin, a part of which has been cut away; on the lid is a plain
coffin-shaped stone. It is highly probable that this tomb contains the
remains of one of the later abbots.
The pillars of the nave are clustered, and have rich bases and foliated
capitals, and the arches are pointed. In this part of the Cathedral and
the north transept are several monuments worthy the attention of
visitors. A pyramidical monument by Nollekens, representing a female
figure resting on a rock, against which is placed a broken anchor;
erected by Captain John Matthews, R.N., to the memory of his wife. One,
in white marble, by Banks, representing the Genius of History weeping
over an urn, having three vols., inscribed ‘Longinus,’ ‘Thucydides,’
‘Zenophon,’ placed by it; erected to the memory of Dean Swift, the
learned translator of those works. One to the memory of Mrs. Barbara
Dod, erected by the minor canons. One to Captain John William Buchanan,
of the 16th Light Dragoons, slain at the battle of Waterloo. One of
Cavalier Sir William Mainwaring, killed at Chester during the great civil
war, 1644. Against the north wall a handsome monument, enclosing a bust
of Sir J. G. Egerton, Bart., erected by subscriptions of the citizens of
Chester, in memory of their honourable and independent representative.
One in memory of Major Thomas Hilton, who died at Montmeir, in the
Burmese empire, 2nd February, 1829. One to Augusta, the wife of the Rev.
James Slade, Canon of the Cathedral, and daughter of Bishop Law. One of
Captain John Moor Napier, who died of Asiatic cholera, in Scinde, July
7th, 1846, aged 28 years: this monument was executed by Westmacott; the
inscription was written by his uncle, the gallant Sir Charles Napier, and
is as follows:—
“The tomb is no record of high lineage;
His may be traced by his name.
His race was one of soldiers:
Among soldiers he lived, among them he died,
A soldier, falling where numbers fell with him,
In a barbarous land.
Yet there died none more generous,
More daring, more gifted, more religious.
On his early grave
Fell the tears of stern and hardy men,
As his had fallen on the grave of others.”
“To the memory of their comrade, the officers of the General Staff in
Scinde erect this cenotaph.”—[The above was executed by Westmacott.]
In the north transept is a piece of very fine tapestry, executed after
one of the cartoons of Raphael, representing the history of Elymas the
sorcerer. Wright, in his travels through France and Italy, expresses his
opinion that this is much superior to any of the tapestry which he saw in
the Vatican. There is also a well-executed stone monument to Roger
Barnston, Esq.; and a tablet in memory of good Chancellor Peploe. A
beautifully executed marble monument has lately been placed on the wall
of the north transept to the memory of Colonel T. Graham Egerton, of the
77th Regiment, who fell at the siege of Sebastopol, in April, 1855.
The choir well merits the attention of every visitor of taste. From the
organ-loft to the Bishop’s throne, the sides are ornamented with rich
spiral tabernacle work, underneath which are massive and highly
ornamented stalls. The choir is separated from the nave and broad aisle
by a Gothic stone screen; there are five pointed arches on each side;
above them is an arcade of pointed arches, resting on slender shafts, and
above it are the clerestory windows. The pavement of the choir is of
black and white marble. At the west end of it are four stalls on each
side of the entrance, and there are twenty others on each side of the
choir; over these are rich canopies, with pinnacles and pendants in great
profusion. Above the stalls on the right hand, opposite the pulpit, is
the Bishop’s throne, which formerly stood at the east end in St. Mary’s
Chapel, and is said to have been the shrine of St. Werburgh, or, as
suggested by Pennant, the pedestal on which originally stood the real
shrine which contained the sacred relics. At the Reformation it was
removed to its present position, and converted into a throne for the
Bishop. It is a rich specimen of Gothic architecture, decorated with
carved work, and embellished with a range of thirty curious small
statues, variously habited, holding scrolls in their hands, and
originally inscribed with their names, but now defaced. Dr. Cowper
published, in 1799, an elaborate history of these figures, and was of
opinion that they represented kings and saints of the royal Mercian line,
ancestors or relations of St. Werburgh. Very great improvements have
recently been effected within the choir. The restoration of the Bishop’s
throne was effected by the munificence of the Rev. Canon Slade, as an
obituary testimonial to his late father-in-law, Bishop Law, in memory of
whom the following incription, engraven upon a brass plate, is affixed to
the throne:—
In gloriam Dei hanc cathedram reficiendam curabit A.D. MDCCCXLVI.
Jacobus Slade, A.M. hujus ecclesiae Canonicus. Recnon in piam
memoriam Georgii Henrici Law, S.T.D. per xii. annos Episcopi
Testriensis, dein Bathoniensis.
At the back of the throne is a magnificent stone screen, the gift of the
Archbishop of Canterbury. The altar screen was presented by the Rev.
Peploe Hamilton, of Hoole, near Chester; the chair within the communion
table by the Rev. Canon Blomfield; the new Bible desk, of carved oak in
the form of an eagle, by the Rev. Chancellor Raikes; the new stone
pulpit, from a beautiful design by Mr. Hussey, was the liberal gift of
Sir Edward S. Walker, of Chester. Towards the restoration of the
Cathedral, Her Majesty the Queen also contributed a donation of £105, in
the name of the Prince of Wales as Earl of Chester.
Under the east window is an arch opening to the Lady Chapel, which
consists of a middle and two side aisles, the stone vaulting of which is
adorned with richly carved key-stones. The side aisles are divided from
the middle portion of two arches, sprung from a massive pier on each
side, apparently part of the original building, cut down and crusted over
with clusters of light pillars, terminated in elegant pointed arches,
with quatrefoils inserted in the mouldings. On the north side of the
chancel, which extends beyond the side aisles, are two elegant pointed
arches: one contains two piscinas; the other was apparently a seat for
the officiating priest; another pointed arch appears also on the opposite
side.
The cloisters are on the north side of the Church, and form a quadrangle
of 110 feet square. Originally there were four walks, but the south walk
is destroyed. The general style of the cloisters is that of the
fifteenth century, with carved cornice key-stones at the intersections of
the vaulting; the arches of the windows are depressed. A lavatory
projects from the west walk of the cloisters, and did extend along the
south walk; over the east walk was a dormitory, which was some time ago
destroyed, much to the injury of the appearance of these venerable
conventual ruins. It is obvious that the present cloisters are only a
restoration of an earlier one. In the east walk of the cloisters is the
entrance into the Chapter House. The stone vaulting rests in clusters of
slender shafts, with foliated capitals; notwithstanding the soft nature
of the stone, the carving is all in a good state of preservation. The
Chapter House was built in the beginning of the twelfth century, by
Randle, Earl of Chester, who removed hither, from the churchyard, the
body of his uncle, Hugh Lupus, whose remains were found enclosed in a
stone coffin in 1723, by persons employed in digging in the Chapter
House. The skull and bones were entire, and lay in their proper
position, enveloped in an ox-hide. On the breast was a piece of cloth,
the texture of which could not be ascertained. Mr. Asphitel considers
the Chapter House, with its singularly tasteful vestibule, to be the
finest in the kingdom.
We now direct the visitor’s attention to a portion of the Norman edifice,
which has of late excited very great interest, the Promptuarium, lately
excavated: “the chamber is a sort of gallery or cloister on the ground
floor, about ninety feet long by forty feet wide, traversed in the centre
by a row of pillars (with one exception cylindrical), which divide it
into six double bays, from which pillars, and four corresponding ones at
each side, spring the intersecting arches by which the building is
vaulted. The side pillars are as entirely Norman in their character as
the centre ones, being simply the square pier, on each face of which is
the pilaster attached; the groining of the roof is without the finish of
ribs at the joints, a finish characteristic of a later period. The
chamber, which has at present only a borrowed light from the cloisters on
the east, was originally lighted from the west side by a window in each
bay, except the second bay from the south end, in which was a principal
entrance. This doorway and the windows are now all choked up by the
adjoining garden. On the same side, and at the north end, is a very
large chimney and fire-place. A glance at the groining and arches at the
north end informing us that the chamber did formerly end here, I was
induced to think, by this situation of the fire-place, that its length
was originally very much greater. I have since found the termination of
the chamber in the cellars of the present Registry, where the groining is
supported by corbels, which show that the vaults extended there, but no
further. One double bay, therefore, added to the present remains, gives
us the entire length of the building—about 105 feet. In this last bay,
on the east side, is a principal doorway (four inches wider than the one
on the west side), leading towards the Refectory. On the east side also,
and near the north end, is a postern from the cloisters and a spiral
staircase, partly constructed in the thickness of the wall, leading to
the chamber above, of which there are now no remains. Two small archways
at opposite sides of the chamber, precisely similar in form and size, and
rising from beneath the level of the floor, seemed to indicate a
subterranean passage connecting them. An excavation round each has,
however, discovered no channel between them. In considering the
character and situation of this vaulted chamber, it should be borne in
mind, that though now apparently subterranean, it is only so with
reference to the west side, the level of the floor being four feet above
the level of the nave of the Cathedral. The ground, which now rises
above it on the west side, is all _made_ ground of late date, belonging
to the Palace, the original level of which is identical with this
chamber, as shown by the area round the present Palace kitchens, and by
those apartments belonging to the Abbot’s residence, which yet remain.”
{75}
Mr. Asphitel, in his able lecture on Chester Cathedral, bestowed the name
of Promptuarium on this Norman cloister: he says—“These are vaulted
apartments of early Norman work, and are described in the charter of
Henry Eighth, by which he divides the properties between the Bishop and
Dean, _promptuaria et pannaria_, the former derived from a word denoting
a butler or steward, probably a buttery; and the latter, from _pannus_, a
cloth, probably the place for clothing.”
Mr. Ayrton, in an able paper on the Norman remains of the Cathedral, read
before the Chester Archæological Association, entered into an elaborate
inquiry on the subject, stating his reasons for concluding that this is
not a _Promptuarium_, but, in his opinion, a spacious Hall, where the
splendid hospitality of the Abbots was displayed to strangers, friends,
and dependents.
There is a vaulted passage at the south end of the _Promptuarium_,
leading from the Abbot’s apartments to the Cathedral: the arches are
circular, the groining is ribbed with elliptical mouldings; these
mouldings stamp a semi-Norman character on the work, being almost a
transition to the early English style.
“Two beautiful Norman doorways gave ingress and egress from the
passage, and still remain, though the one which opened to the present
west cloister is closed, and sadly disfigured by the alterations of
the sixteenth century. The other doorway, to the west, is yet
perfect, excepting the shafts of the pillars, which are gone. At the
south end of the east cloister, and forming the present entrance from
that cloister to the Cathedral, is a Norman doorway of about the same
date as the arcade adjoining it. The architrave is very ornate,
bearing the billet ornaments, accompanied by a bead which runs
between the mouldings; the capitals of the pilasters are foliated,
and identical with those already noticed in the Norman doorway of the
vaulted passage.”
The dimensions of the Cathedral are as follows:—Length from east to west,
350 feet; nave, 160; choir, 125; Lady Chapel, 65; transept from north to
south, 180; breadth of nave, choir, and aisles, 74½ feet; south wing of
transept, 80 feet square; height of nave and choir, 78 feet; tower, 127;
Lady Chapel, 33; north wing of transept, 39 feet broad.
The following is a list of the Bishops, from the foundation of the see,
in 1541, to the present date:—
John Bird 1541
George Cotes 1554
Cuthbert Scott 1555
William Downham 1561
William Chadderton 1579
Hugh Bellot 1595
Richard Vaughan 1595
George Lloyd 1604
Gerard Massie 1615
Thomas Moreton 1616
John Bridgeman 1618
Brian Walton 1660
Henry Ferne 1662
George Hall 1662
John Wilkins 1668
John Pearson 1672
Thomas Cartwright 1688
Nicholas Stratford 1689
William Dawes 1707
Francis Gastrell 1714
Samuel Peploe 1716
Edmund Keene 1752
William Markham 1771
Beilby Porteus 1777
William Cleaver 1788
H. W. Majendie 1800
E. B. Sparke 1810
G. H. Law 1812
C. J. Blomfield 1824
J. B. Sumner 1828
J. Graham 1848
List of Deans of Chester Cathedral, from its formation to the present
time:—
Thomas Clarke 1541
Henry Mann 1542
William Cliff 1547
Richard Walker 1558
John Pears 1567
R. Langworth 1571
R. Dorset 1579
Thomas Modesley 1580
John Rutter 1589
Wm. Barlow 1602
Henry Parry 1605
Thomas Mallory 1607
Wm. Nicholls 1644
Henry Bridgman 1660
James Arderne 1682
Lawrence Fogg 1691
Walter Offley 1718
Thomas Allen 1721
Thomas Brooke 1733
William Smith 1758
George Cotton 1780
Hugh Cholmondeley 1806
Robert Hodgson 1815
Peter Vaughan 1820
Edmund Coplestone 1826
Henry Philpotts 1828
George Davys 1830
F. Anson 1839
BISHOP—J. Graham, D.D.
DEAN—F. Anson, D.D.
ARCHDEACONS.
Ven. Isaac Wood, Middlewich
Ven. J. Jones, Liverpool.
CANONS.
Rev. J. Slade, M.A. Rev. T. Eaton, M.A.
Rev. G. B. Blomfield, M.A. Rev. Temple Hillyard, M.A.
MINOR CANONS.
W. Harrison, M.A. R. M. Smith, M.A.
F. E. Thurland, M.A. H. Venables, M.A., Precentor.
HONORARY CANONS.
Rev. C. A. Thurlow, M.A. Rev. Hugh Stowell, M.A.
Rev. Hugh McNeile, D.D. Rev. W. Cooke, M.A.
_Organist_—Mr. Gunton.
The hours of service are—Week-day, morning, 7 and 10; afternoon, 4.
Sunday, morning, 11; afternoon, 4 o’clock. During the winter months the
service begins at 3 in the afternoon.
Through the indefatigable energy of Dr. Anson, the present Dean, many
most important improvements have been introduced into the interior of
this noble edifice, which have added very much to its decoration and
general effect. In 1843, the munificent sum of £4,000 was contributed
for the purpose of giving effect to the praiseworthy object of restoring
some portion of the ancient beauties of the Cathedral. A new organ has
been erected, of great power and richness of tone, the top of which is
carved with tabernacle work, in unison with that of the choir. The old
pews, which were sadly out of keeping with the rich Gothic woodwork of
the stalls, have been removed, and the choir has been new seated in the
Gothic style.
The whole of the choir has been vaulted, which has greatly contributed to
its improved appearance. A great number of beautiful stained-glass
windows, principally the gifts of private families as obituary memorials,
have been introduced since the commencement of the improvements in 1843.
The large window of stained glass, at the west end, was presented by Mrs.
Hamilton, of Hoole, by whose liberality a splendid restoration of the
Lady Chapel has been effected.
The interior of the Cathedral excites a general feeling of admiration,
which the exterior fails to realize.
THE CHURCH OF ST. OSWALD’S,
as already mentioned, forms the south transept of the choir of Chester
Cathedral. After the introduction of regular monks into the monastery of
St. Werburgh, anciently dedicated to the Holy Trinity and St. Oswald, the
name of this patron saint was retained by that part of the conventual
church which was set apart for the uses of the inhabitants of the parish,
within which the monastery was placed. This part probably occupied the
site of that transept of the Cathedral which forms the present parish
church. The name of St. Oswald does not, however, appear to have been
originally used for the parish. In the licence of appropriation by
William Cornhall, Bishop of Coventry, it is called the parish church of
St. Werburgh.
It appears to have been subsequently called the Church of St. Oswald and
the Church of St. Werburgh indiscriminately. It was founded in the ninth
century by Ethelfleda, Countess of Mercia. So early as 1093, when Earl
Leofric introduced regular monks into the Cathedral, that part of it now
occupied by St. Oswald’s was set apart for the use of the parishioners,
as we have just stated. The abbot and convent afterwards wishing to
re-attach it to the Cathedral, built for the parishioners a small chapel,
dedicated to St. Nicholas, in the spot where the Music Hall now stands;
but they do not appear to have been contented with their new place of
worship; for in 1488 we find, from Gastrel’s ‘Notitia,’ that a
“composition was made between the Abbot and the parishioners of St.
Oswald’s for their new church.” They accordingly re-entered into the
south transept, which had been rebuilt by Abbot Ripley, and have ever
since used it as their parish church.
St. Oswald’s was formerly in a state of great dilapidation; and was only
separated from the aisle of the Cathedral by a slight wooden screen. In
1827 it was thoroughly repaired; the whole was new flagged and pewed, a
new pulpit and reading desk added; the old gallery, which was at the west
side, taken down, and a new one erected at the south end. The interior
was cut off from the aisle by a partition, erected by Dr. Coplestone when
Dean, who expended more than £1,000 in various improvements.
St. Oswald’s is a vicarage, in the gift of the Dean and Chapter of
Chester Cathedral. The present vicar is the Rev. William Harrison, M.A.
[Picture: St. John’s Church & Priory, Chester]
CHURCH OF ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST.
The church is situated without the city walls, a short distance from the
Newgate; it stands upon an elevation overhanging the north bank of the
Dee, and the churchyard commands a beautiful and extensive prospect.
This church, with its adjoining ruins, is the most interesting of the
ecclesiastical buildings of Chester.
The foundation of the church is ascribed by Webb to Ethelred, Ring of
Mercia, and stated, on the authority of Giraldus, to have taken place in
the year 689. The MS. chronicle of St. Werburgh makes a similar
statement on the same authority; it is also adopted by the author of
‘Polycronicon,’ and thus quaintly recorded—
“The year of grace six hundred fourscore nine,
So saith my author, a Briton, Giraldus,
King Etheldred, minding most the bliss of heaven,
Edified a college church, notable and famous,
In the suburbs of Chester, pleasant and beauteous,
In the honour of God, and the Baptist St. John,
With the help of Bishop Wulfrice, and good exhortation.”
This inscription is now affixed to a pillar on the north side of the
church. With respect to its foundation by Ethelred, we find the
following curious passage, quoted from an early writer by King and
others:—“King Ethelred minding to build a church, was told that where he
should see a white hind there he should build a church; which white hind
he saw in the place where St. John’s Church now standeth, and in
remembrance whereof, his picture was placed in the wall of the said
church, which yet standeth on the side of the steeple, towards the west,
having a white hind in his hand.”
According to William of Malmsbury, St. John’s was repaired and richly
endowed by Leofric, Earl of Mercia, in 1057, and it is shortly afterwards
thus noticed in Doomsday Book:—“Ecclesia Sancti Johanius, in civitate
habét viii. domos, quietas ab omné consuetudine: una ex his est
matricularii ecclesiæ; aliæ sunt canonicorum.” The seat of the See,
which for some centuries after the conquest fluctuated between Chester,
Coventry, and Lichfield, was, in 1075, fixed for a time in the Church of
St. John, by Peter, then Bishop, which may be taken as a sufficient proof
of the wealth and grandeur of the foundation, even at this early period.
The succeeding Bishop, Robert de Limesey, having removed the seat of the
See to Coventry, St. John’s returned to its former collegiate
establishment, but was long afterwards considered and denominated one of
the three Cathedrals of the diocese, and retained in its immediate
neighbourhood a palace of the Bishop, and the mansion of the Archdeacon
of Chester—the remains of its former importance. At the dissolution in
1547, the college consisted of one dean, seven prebends, four vicars, a
clerk, and a sexton. “In this church,” says Dr. Cowper, “was an ancient
rood, or image of wood, of such veneration, that in a deed dated March
27, 1311, confirmed by Walter Langton, the church was called the _Church
of the Holy Cross and St. John_.” “There can be little doubt, on the
whole,” says Ormerod, “that some monastic foundation, dedicated to the
Holy Cross, had, previously to this, merged in the college of St. John.”
In 1468 the old steeple, which stood between the nave and the chancel,
fell in, and destroyed great part of the choir. In 1470 the steeple was
rebuilt, and the whole church covered with lead at the expense of the
parishioners, to whom certain immunities were granted by the Dean on that
account. In 1548, a commission was granted to certain gentlemen of
Cheshire to survey the colleges, &c., within the county; in virtue
whereof a return (now in the Augmentation Office) was made, wherein the
annual rent of the college of St. John, arising from lands, tithes, &c.,
is reckoned at £146 5s. The church plate is estimated in the same return
at 465 ounces; the weight of the five bells, 4,000 lbs.; lead in and upon
the church, 78 tons; and goods and ornaments for the use of the clergy to
the value of £40 19s. 9d. In 1572, the greater part of the central
steeple again fell in; and in 1574, part of the steeple at the west end
of the church also gave way, whereby great part of the church was
destroyed. After being suffered to remain in a ruinous state for some
years, the parishioners obtained a grant of the church from Queen
Elizabeth in 1581, whereupon they repaired and reduced it to its present
size and form, by taking down the remains of the central steeple, and
cutting off the south and north transepts and all the chapels above the
choir. In 1585, the Queen granted the impropriate rectory and advowson
to Sir Christopher Halton, by whom it was conveyed to Alexander King,
who, in 1587, conveyed it to Alexander Cotes, whose daughter brought it
by marriage to the family of the Sparkes, in 1597; in which family it
continued until the year 1810, when it was sold by their representative,
John Adams, Esq., to the late Marquis of Westminster, who, in 1813,
rebuilt the north and south transepts, and repaired the chancel, in which
he introduced a Gothic window over the altar.
“St. Johns, when entire,” says Pennant, “was a magnificent pile. The
tower once stood in the centre, but falling down in 1574, was never
rebuilt.” “The church,” says Ormerod, “was in the finest style of early
Norman architecture; it consisted originally of a nave and choir, with
side aisles, two transepts, and a central tower, &c.”
On each side of the chancel were added, at a later period, chapels in a
rich style of pointed Gothic, in which some exquisite specimens of shrine
work are yet remaining.
The nave and choir, fitted up and repaired in 1581, as before mentioned,
now form the parish church, in which public worship is celebrated. Eight
arches, resting on pillars 5 feet 6 inches in circumference, with
capitals variously ornamented, separate the nave from the side aisles;
and above these are two rows of galleries, with pointed arches, springing
from light shafts. Four massive composite pillars, which formerly
supported the central tower, still remain in the nave. In the interior
are some interesting relics of the architecture of our Norman ancestors.
The belfry is detached from the church, at the north-west corner of which
it is situate. It is a square tower, erected in the seventeenth century,
150 feet in height. It is extremely lofty, and its sides are decorated
with pointed windows in a good style, figures placed in rich shrines,
strings of quatrefoils and rows of ornamental arches; in one of the
niches on the west side is placed a statue which has excited much
controversy. It is much defaced by time and exposure to the weather.
At the east end of the church, as now rebuilt, stand the ruins of the
chapels above the choir, consisting of the outer walls, with the remains
of several windows of Gothic architecture; and the eastern wall,
containing a beautiful arched window, of the same style, but larger and
richer in ornament than the others.
Near the foot of the tower, on the north side of the church, is an
ancient porch, forming the principal entrance, in the sides of which are
two lancet arches, the entrance being under an acutely pointed arch, the
mouldings of which rest on a number of short shafts, which converge as
they retire inwards.
“Within this church,” says Ormerod, “was a chantry, dedicated to St.
Mary.” Within the precincts of St. John’s were also Thorneton’s chantry,
the Chapel of St. Anne, which Piggott says, “in some deeds, is called the
‘_Monastery_ of St. Anne;’ was endowed with land and houses, some of
which now constitute the revenues of Northwich school:” there was also
the Chapel of St. James’s, which Lysons says was the old parish church;
in 1662 it is described as being then used as a stable. It has long
since been entirely destroyed. On the south wall of the churchyard was
an ancient building, called the “Anchorite’s Cell,” which is said to be
the spot where Earl Harold retired after the battle of Hastings, in 1066;
a monkish chronicle being extant, which denies the fact of his death in
that fight, and states that he lived for some time after at Chester, in
the disguise of a monk. In 1770 two skeletons were discovered here in
coffin-shaped cavities, scooped out of the rock. The fourteen panel
tables which are hung in various parts of the church, bearing the arms of
the deceased to whose memory they are placed, are said to be painted by
one of the Randle Holmes, the distinguished herald artists. This noble
church is horridly disfigured by huge galleries and unsightly pews, for
the removal of which an effort is now making, as a prelude to a general
restoration of the sacred edifice. The present vicar is the Rev. W. B.
Marsden, M.A.
[Picture: Chancel ruins of St. John’s Church, Chester]
ST. PETER’S CHURCH.
This church stands exactly in the centre of the city, where the four
principal streets meet, and close to the ancient site of the high cross.
It consists of a nave and side aisles, divided from each other by three
pointed arches. “The span of the arches, and the height of the
building,” says Ormerod, “are very disproportionate to the present size
of the interior, and give it the appearance of being a fragment of a much
larger building.” In a square tower on the south-west side are eight
bells, cast in 1709, whereof six are a peal; on the treble is engraved,
“When you ring, I’ll sing.”
Pennant is of opinion, as we have before stated, that on this site
formerly stood the Roman Prætorium. Tradition says that this church was
built by Ethelfleda, Countess of Mercia, and that it was originally
dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, at the time when the name of the
“mother church” was changed to the Holy Trinity and St. Oswald.
Bradshaw, the Monk, alluding thereto, says—
“And the old church of St. Peter and Paul,
By a general consent of the spirituality,
With the help of the Duke most principal,
Was translated into the midst of the said city.”
In Domesday it is noticed under its present name, “Templum Sancti Petri.”
In 1081 it was given by Robert de Rodeland to the Monks of St. Ebrulf, in
Normandy, by whom it was shortly afterwards resigned to the Abbot of St.
Werburgh. In 1479 the steeple was rebuilt, on which occasion the parson,
and other inhabitants, ate a goose at the top of it, and flung the bones
into the four principal streets beneath. In 1580 eight yards of the
spire of the steeple were new built. A.D. 1637–40, the east end of the
church, and the south side from the window stools, was re-edificed, the
roof almost new leaded, most of the pews new made, all the rest repaired,
and all the aisles nagged. At the dissolution, the patronage of St.
Peter was vested in the Dean and Chapter of Chester; it afterwards
reverted to the Crown, but is now solely in the gift of the Bishop. The
spire of this church, having been injured by lightning, was taken down in
1780, and in 1787 the south side of the church was recased with stone.
The steeple was rebuilt, and a new clock was placed in it, in 1813; other
improvements in the interior have been subsequently made with good taste
and effect. The Rev. John Watson is the rector.
THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY TRINITY
is situated on the north side of Watergate-street, adjoining the Custom
House.
All traces of the foundation and endowment of this church are buried in
remote antiquity. The earliest evidence of its existence, now to be
found, is in a charter relative to the church of Rostherne, in the
twelfth century, amongst the witnesses to which is “Walterus Ecclesiæ
Sanctæ Trinitatis Presbyterus.” The advowson was anciently vested in the
Barons of Montalt, now called Hawarden, with which barony it passed to
the Crown, by whom it was given to the Earls of Salisbury, from whom it
passed to the Stanleys of Lathom, whose representative, the Earl of
Derby, is the present patron. In 1401, Henry, Prince of Wales and Earl
of Chester (afterwards Henry the Fifth), confirmed to the citizens of
Chester a charter, whereby they were relieved from payment of tithes for
the Roodeye to the parson of Trinity parish. In 1679, the south and east
sides of this church, being in a ruinous state, were rebuilt. The tower
was formerly surmounted by a remarkably light and elegant spire, 159 feet
in height. This, however, from the perishable nature of its materials
and its exposed situation, required very frequent repairs, and about
seventy-five years ago the upper part was so frequently and severely
injured by storms, as to require rebuilding thrice in eight years. In
1811 the whole structure of the spire was in such a state of decay, that
reasonable doubts were entertained of its safety, if allowed to remain;
it was therefore taken down, and the tower reduced to its present
altitude. The burying ground adjoining this church having been found
inadequate to the increased population of the parish, a piece of ground,
to the eastward of the city gaol, was purchased in 1809, and converted to
that purpose, at an expense of £1,000.
The interior of this church consists of a nave, chancel, and side aisles,
divided from the nave by three pointed arches on the south side; but on
the north the arches have been removed, and their places supplied by iron
pillars. A thorough repair took place in 1826, when a number of free
sittings were erected in the galleries.
Dr. Parnell, Archdeacon of Clogher, whose poems are familiar to every
person of taste and feeling, was buried in this church, October 24th,
1718, having died at Chester, on his way to Ireland.
There are several monuments worthy of attention. Within the communion
rails lie the remains of Matthew Henry, the celebrated commentator, who
officiated in the Presbyterian chapel in Cook-street; there is a Latin
inscription to his memory on a brass plate. The Rev. F. Ayckbown, M.A.,
is the rector.
ST. MARTIN’S CHURCH,
formerly called _St. Martins of the Ash_, stands at the west end of White
Friars and Cuppin-street. It appears to have been an ancient foundation;
for it is mentioned in a deed, in the year 1250, wherein Bernard de
Trannuille releases to Philip le Clerk a rent of 12d. arising from
premises situate “near the Church of St. Martin in Chester.” The old
church mentioned in this deed, having fallen into decay, was rebuilt in
1721, as we learn from an inscription on the front of the steeple. The
open ground in front of this church bears the name of _Martin’s Ash_,
derived in all likelihood from the circumstance of an ash tree having
formerly stood on the spot. The parish is now united to that of St.
Bridget, and the service in St. Martin’s is discontinued.
ST. MARY’S CHURCH,
anciently called _Ecclesia Sanctæ Mariæ de Castello_ and _Ecclesia Sanctæ
Mariæ super Montem_, but now _St. Mary’s on the Hill_, stands at the
upper end of Castle-street, at the extreme verge of the liberties of the
city.
Although the precise date of the foundation of this church cannot be
ascertained, yet it is not improbable that it was one of those founded
early in the twelfth century by Lucy, sister of Edwin, Earl of Mercia,
and widow of Randle de Meschines, Earl of Chester, a lady remarkable as a
benefactress to the “holy church,” even in that church-erecting and
endowing age. At all events, St. Mary’s was gifted to the Abbey of St.
Werburgh, by Randle Gernons, Earl of Chester, son of the above-named
lady, in one of those fits of compunction which usually followed the acts
of violence into which his turbulence and ambition frequently led him.
Shortly after the dissolution, the Dean and Chapter of St. Werburgh
obtained a grant from the Crown of the rectory of St. Mary’s, which was
surrendered by Dean Cliffe in 1550, to Sir R. Cotton, by whose agent it
was sold for £100 to John Brereton, Esq., of Wettenhall, by whose heirs
it was again sold to the Wilbrahams of Dorfold, from whom it passed by
marriage to the Hills of Hough, in Wybunbury, from whom it was purchased
by the late Marquis of Westminster.
St. Mary’s consists of a nave, chancel, and side aisles, with a square
tower at the west end, used as a belfry. The south aisle, called
_Troutbeck’s Chapel_, was erected by William Troutbeck, of Dunham, in the
fifteenth century. This chapel is noticed in the ecclesiastical survey
taken by the Commissioners appointed by Henry the Eighth, and its annual
rents, arising from lands and tenements within the city of Chester, are
estimated at £5 6s. In this chapel were many monuments of the founder’s
family, which, according to Holmes, “were thought to exceed anything of
the kind in England;” but these were destroyed, by the falling in of the
roof, in 1660. In 1690, the parishioners having obtained a grant of the
site from the Duke of Shrewsbury, representative of the Troutbecks, built
thereon the present south aisle. The north aisle was anciently called
the _Chapel of St. Catherine_.
The tower of St. Mary’s is only 50 feet high, its further elevation
having been objected to by the Governor of Chester Castle, when it was
repaired in 1715, lest it should command the castle-yard.
In this church are several monuments well worthy the attention of the
visitor. Amongst these is one to the memory of Thomas Gamul, Recorder of
Chester, who died in 1613. The deceased is represented in a recumbent
posture, with his wife on his right hand, and his only son in the
attitude of prayer at his knee: on the side of the tomb his three
daughters, who died in infancy, holding skeletons in their hands. The
statues of this monument are of alabaster. Another to the memory of
Philip Oldfield, of Bradwell, who died in 1616, represents him in the
costume of that age, leaning on his right side, with a roll of parchment
in his hand. The slab is supported by kneeling figures of his four sons,
with their hands upon their sword hilts: at the head are figures of his
two daughters bearing shields. In the north aisle are tablets to the
memory of different members of the family of Holmes, the celebrated
antiquaries. Of this family, four successively bore the name of Randle.
The first, who was Sheriff of Chester in 1615, and Mayor in 1633, died in
1654; the second was Mayor of Chester in 1643, and died in 1659; the
third, author of the ‘Academic Armoury,’ was gentleman sewer to Charles
the Second, and Deputy Garter King of Arms, and died in 1699; and the
fourth was Deputy Norroy King of Arms, and died in 1707. Of these four
Randle Holmes, the second and third were the celebrated antiquarian
collectors; and there are some compilations of a similar nature, brought
down to 1704, by the last. Several stained-glass windows have lately
been introduced, the principal ones consisting of a memorial in honour of
the heroes of the 23rd regiment of Welsh Fusiliers, who fell at the
battle of the Alma in the Russian war: and another to the memory of the
late rector, the Rev. W. H. Massie, who was universally beloved, and who
effected great improvements in the church and parish.
St. Mary’s is a rectory, in the gift of the Marquis of Westminster. The
present rector is the Rev. C. Boween, M.A.
There are Sunday evening lectures in this church, under the patronage of
the Bishop of the diocese. They are supported by annual subscriptions,
aided by collections in the church.
ST. BRIDGET’S CHURCH.
The old church of St. Bridget, or St. Bride (now removed), was situate on
the west side of Bridge-street, exactly opposite to St. Michael’s. There
exists no correct data on which to ascertain the time of its foundation,
which tradition attributes to Offa, King of Mercia, who reigned in the
end of the eighth century, about which time we are told that several
churches were founded in Chester. There is, however, clear evidence,
from writings among the Harleian MSS., that in the twelfth century the
patronage of this church belonged to the Lords of Aldford, by one of
whom, in 1224, it was quitclaimed to Randle Blundeville. From another
writing it appears that, in 1265, Simon, Abbot of St. Werburgh, in
consideration of certain grants and donations, made to him by Bertram de
Arneway, bound himself to maintain a chaplain to say mass for the soul of
John Arneway, before the altar of the Virgin in St. Bridget’s Church.
This church was formerly surrounded by a wall, which encroached
considerably upon Bridge-street, and the ground between this wall and the
church was used as a burying-place; but in 1785 the bodies were removed
to a piece of ground on the south of the church, and the street widened.
The church walls were refaced with freestone, and other repairs made at
the same time. A gateway formerly crossed the street between St.
Bridget’s and St. Michael’s churches, dividing higher from lower
Bridge-street. The old church of St. Bridget was taken down in 1827,
under the provisions of the New Bridge Act, in order to improve the
approach into the city, and the new church was erected on the north-west
side of the castle. The ceremony of laying the foundation stone was
performed by the Right Rev. C. J. Blomfield, then Lord Bishop of the
diocese. The length is about 90 feet, and the width 50, and the church
is calculated to contain 1,000 persons. “It is rather a remarkable
circumstance,” says Hemingway, “that although St. Bridget’s parish is
wholly within the city, the ground occupied by the church and cemetery is
neither within the parish nor the city, but altogether within the county
palatine; but by a clause in the act, it is enacted, that after the
consecration, it shall ‘for all purposes, and to all intents whatsoever,
be deemed part of, and situated within the said parish of St. Bridget,
and within the said city of Chester.’”
The Rev. G. Salt, M.A., is the present incumbent.
ST. MICHAEL’S CHURCH
is situate on the east side of Bridge-street, opposite the end of
Grosvenor-street, leading to the New Bridge. The time of its foundation
is uncertain, but it is supposed to have been connected with the
Monastery of St. Michael, which was given to the priory of Norton by
Roger de Lacy in a charter, subsequently confirmed by Henry the Second;
it is recorded by Bradshaw, that “the Monastery of St. Michael was burnt
by the great fire which happened on Mid-Lent Sunday in 1118, at eight of
the clock (all being in church), and consumed the greatest part of the
city.” It is conjectured that this monastery was situated in
Bridge-street, in Rock’s-court, where, Dr. Williamson says, “before it
was converted into dwelling houses, one might have beheld fair,
churchlike windows, and other demonstrations of its being part of a
religious house.” The chancel was rebuilt in 1496, and enlarged in 1678.
The old steeple, which was built in 1710, having fallen into decay, from
the perishable nature of the red sandstone, was taken down in 1849, and
the present handsome structure, built with white stone, was erected in
its place. The south, east, and a portion of the north walls of the
church having also been found to be in a very defective state, they were
taken down in 1850; in fact, the church has been almost entirely rebuilt,
as none of the old walls remain, except the three internal arches, and a
part of the north wall. The flat ceiling has been removed, but the nave
and chancel roofs being principally constructed of oak, and in a good
state of preservation, have been retained; they have, however, been
re-slated. The north chancel has been entirely rebuilt and new roofed.
The north aisle of the nave is divided from the body of the church by
three pointed arches springing from octagonal columns, the capitals being
ornamented with quatrefoils. The interior of the old building was very
inconvenient, unsightly, and dilapidated, but it is now completely
restored in proper ecclesiastical style. The chancel is paved with
beautiful tiles, those within the communion rails being liberally given
by Mr. Minton. Each compartment of the five chancel windows is
surrounded with a neat border of stained glass. The style of
architecture adopted in the restoration of the church is the transition
from the decorated to the perpendicular, that being considered as best
suited to those portions of the old building which are retained. Great
credit is due to Mr. James Harrison, the architect, for the very great
skill and judgment he has displayed in the restoration of the church.
The total cost was about £1,700, of which the parishioners borrowed £500
on the security of the church rates; the remaining sum was raised by
subscription. Besides many smaller bequests from different individuals,
this parish enjoys, under the will of Dr. Robert Oldfield, dated 24th of
April, 1695, “two-thirds of Dunham Hall, and other lands and messuages at
Dunham-on-the-Hill, together with lands at Boughton, for the purpose of
paying £20 a year to the minister, provided he hold no other preferment,
and of binding poor boys apprentices born in that parish, and of
maintaining one or more poor boys, who should be apt to learn, at the
University.” Owing to proper objects not having every year presented
themselves, the revenues have accumulated, and with the bequeathed
property now produce an annual rent of upwards of £400. St. Michael’s is
a perpetual curacy, in the gift of the Bishop of Chester. The present
officiating minister is the Rev. J. F. Hewson.
CHRIST CHURCH
is situated in a thickly inhabited district called Newtown; the rapid
increase in the population of this locality rendering additional church
accommodation necessary, the present edifice was erected to supply the
need. It was consecrated on October 23, 1838. The cost was £3,390
(including £1,000 for endowment, £100 for repair fund, &c.) The Rev. W.
Gibson, formerly rector of St. Bride’s, Chester, and now rector of
Fawley, Hampshire, gave £1,425; the then Bishop of Chester (Dr. Sumner),
the Rev. Chancellor Raikes, and Miss Rowe, £100 each; H. Raikes, Esq.,
£55; the late General Beckwith, £50; W. Wardell, Esq., £50; the Diocesan
Church Building Society, £500. The church is built in the early English
style of architecture. The Rev. R. D. Thomas is the present incumbent.
ST. PAUL’S CHURCH,
the most unsightly church in England probably, is situated near to Barrel
Well, Boughton, and was built by public subscription, under the patronage
of Bishop Blomfield and Bishop Sumner. It was erected in 1830, at the
cost of about £2,000. It is capable of seating about 800 persons; 400
free sittings being appropriated for the poor. There is no endowment for
the church, the income of the minister being derived from the pew rents.
The present incumbent is the Rev. J. Gaman, M.A.
ST. OLAVE’S CHURCH
is situated on the east side of Lower Bridge-street, opposite
Castle-street. It is a small, oblong structure, in outward appearance
much resembling a barn. This church is of great antiquity, having been
erected before the Norman Conquest. In the eleventh century it was
possessed by the Botelars, by whom it was given, with two houses in the
Market-place, to the Abbey of St. Werburgh, in 1101.
After the great civil war, St. Olave’s fell into disuse as a place of
public worship, being only employed for baptisms and burials, on which
occasions the minister of St. Michael’s officiated. It was, however,
re-opened as a parish church about the middle of last century, and
continued so until the year 1841, when service in the church was
discontinued, and the parish united with that of St. Michael’s.
LITTLE ST. JOHN’S.
We refer the reader to the notice we have already given of this ancient
hospital and chapel in a former page. The present incumbent is the Rev.
William Clarke, B.D.
DISSENTING PLACES OF WORSHIP.
THE UNITARIAN CHAPEL
claims priority of notice, as being the first dissenting place of worship
in Chester. The following succinct sketch of the history of this
building is taken from Pigott’s ‘History of Chester:’—
“The Unitarian chapel is a large brick building, with a burial ground
in front, situated between Crook-lane and Trinity-lane, having an
entrance from each of those streets, and is generally called
Crook’s-lane Chapel. It was built in 1700 by a large, flourishing,
respectable society, which had been formed in 1687 by the celebrated
Matthew Henry, son of the learned, pious, and laborious Philip Henry,
one of the ejected ministers. In the register book belonging to the
congregation of this place there is a short account of the rise,
progress, and transactions of the society, written by Mr. Henry in
1710, being the twenty-third year of his ministry. From this
account, it appears that in 1682 there were three dissenting
congregations in Chester, which had been founded by Mr. William Cook,
Mr. Ralph Hall, and Mr. John Harvey, ministers of the Established
Church, who had been ejected from their respective livings on account
of their non-compliance with the Act of Uniformity. After the death
of Mr. Cook and Mr. Hall, their congregations were entirely broken up
and dispersed by the persecutions of the times; but such of them as
continued dissenters occasionally held meetings at each other’s
houses, or joined Mr. Harvey’s congregation, which assembled at his
house in a private manner, in order to avoid the penalties which were
then in force against the Nonconformists. James the Second, under
the pretence of universal toleration, but with a view to the
establishment of popery, granted them the liberty of public worship,
of which they had been deprived in the latter part of the reign of
Charles the Second. It was at this time that Mr. Henry, who began
his ministry in Chester, collected the remains of the congregation of
Mr. Cook and Mr. Hall, and opened a meeting in White Friars’-lane.
Mr. Harvey, who had been ejected from Wallasey, in Cheshire,
continued to preside over a dissenting congregation in Bridge-street
for thirteen years after toleration was granted; he died November,
1699; he was succeeded by his son, who resigned in 1706, on account
of ill-health. His congregation, which was large and opulent, was
united to that of Mr. Henry, and in 1707 a large gallery was built on
the south side of Crook’s-lane meeting-house for their better
accommodation. Thus the three original nonconformist societies were
united in one, under the pastoral care of Mr. Henry, who was then the
only dissenting minister in Chester.”
Mr. Henry removed from Chester to Hackney in 1713, and died of apoplexy,
at Nantwich, where he had been on a visit to his friends, in June, 1714,
in the 52nd year of his age, and was buried in Trinity Church in this
city. His exposition of the Bible has gone through very many editions,
and is still in great repute. Mr. John Gardiner succeeded Mr. Henry in
1713, and held his appointment for more than half a century. During the
latter years of his ministry, his religious opinions appear to have
undergone a decided change, departing very much from the doctrines
maintained by Mr. Henry, which gradually prepared the way for the full
development of Unitarianism in the place by his successor, Mr. Chidlaw,
who was an avowed believer and advocate of the tenets peculiar to that
system of Socinian doctrine. The present minister is the Rev. James
Macdonald.
Independent Chapel.
This place of worship is situated on the west side of Queen-street. It
is a handsome brick building, having a chaste stone front, with covered
portico, and pillars of the Grecian Doric order. It has galleries on
three sides, and will accommodate about 1,200 persons. It contains also
a good organ. The founders of this chapel were seceders from the
Presbyterian congregation in Crook-street, in consequence of a departure
from what they held as the principles of a sound faith, as we have
already noticed. For some years they worshipped in a large room in
Commonhall-street, afterwards occupied by Mr. Wilcoxon’s congregation.
They formed themselves into a church in 1772, when the Rev. Wm. Armitage
was chosen the pastor. The chapel in Queen-street was erected in 1777;
it was very much enlarged in 1838, when great improvements were made in
the arrangements of the interior. At the same time a spacious wing was
added to the building, which is used as a lecture-room and as a sabbath
school for girls: underneath the lecture-room is a commodious sabbath
school for boys. In addition to the Sunday schools in Queen-street,
there are also three branch schools in the suburbs of the city, which are
supported by the congregation. The present minister is the Rev. C.
Chapman.
WESLEYAN METHODIST CHAPEL.
(OLD CONNEXION.)
This chapel (says Hemingway) was erected in 1811; it is a large,
well-built, handsome structure, with a semicircular front, and two
entrances. It is galleried on three sides, and behind the pulpit is a
large orchestra for the accommodation of singers, where there is also a
well-toned organ. The introduction of Methodism into this city occurred
about the year 1750, and the first preacher who visited the neighbourhood
was a Mr. John Bennett. He commenced his labours at Huntington Hall, in
the neighbourhood, the residence of Mr. George Cotton; from thence the
preaching was removed to the house of Mr. Richard Jones, in Love-lane,
within the city, where a society was first formed; the house soon became
too small for them, the society therefore procured and fitted up a
capacious barn in Martin’s Ash, from which time they were regularly
supplied with travelling preachers, and where the Rev. John Wesley
frequently visited them, in his annual excursions. After remaining in
Martin’s Ash for about twelve years, they had sufficient credit to obtain
£520 upon bond, with which they erected, in 1765, the Octagon Chapel in
Foregate-street, which they continued to occupy until their removal to
St. John-street. The Wesleyans have also built commodious schoolrooms,
which are very numerously attended. The resident ministers are the Rev.
T. Brooks and the Rev. J. E. Cooke.
[Picture: Independent Chapel & Lecture Rooms, Queen Street, Chester]
WESLEYAN METHODIST CHAPEL.
(NEW CONNEXION.)
The New Connexion Methodists seceded from the old society on some points
respecting the management of the funds, throwing open their financial
matters to the knowledge and supervision of the people, and the general
government of their societies. They have a large place of worship in
Pepper-street, which is fronted with stone, and supported by four
Corinthian pillars. The ministers are itinerant, and receive their
appointment from the annual conference.
THE OCTAGON CHAPEL
is situated in Foregate-street, and, as already stated, was built in
1765, by the Wesleyan Methodists. Upon their removal to St. John-street,
it was purchased, and has since that time been occupied by its present
possessors. The congregation was collected by the labours of the late
Rev. P. Oliver, a clergyman of the Established Church, who embraced the
doctrines of the celebrated Mr. Whitefield. This gentleman (says
Hemingway, from whom we quote) converted some outbuildings near his house
in Boughton into a chapel, where he officiated until his death without
any other reward than the gratification of diffusing among his poor
neighbours, according to the best of his judgment, the spirit and
principles of evangelical truth. At his death he bequeathed the chapel
to his congregation for a term of years; but upon their removal to the
Octagon, they sold their interest in it, and it has since been
occasionally used as a place of worship by the Independents of
Queen-street. The congregation at the Octagon is in connection with the
societies which were under the patronage of the late Countess of
Huntingdon. The present minister is the Rev. W. Evans.
THE BAPTIST CHAPEL
is situated in Hamilton-place; it is a small brick building, erected in
1806.
THE WELSH CALVINISTIC CHAPEL
stands on the north side of Commonhall-street; it was opened for public
service on the 12th November, 1820. The public service is conducted in
the Welsh language.
COMMONHALL STREET
was erected in 1841, by the congregation of the late Mr. Jonathan
Wilcoxon, who officiated in an adjoining room, without pecuniary
emolument, for thirty-seven years. After his death the congregation
united themselves with the Independents.
THE QUAKERS’ MEETING HOUSE
is a plain building, standing on the east side of Frodsham-street. It is
capable of containing several hundred persons, and has a burial ground in
front; it is one of the oldest dissenting places of worship now existing
in Chester. Clarkson, in his ‘Memoirs of William Penn,’ says, “Among the
places he (William Penn) visited in Cheshire, was Chester itself. The
king (James the Second), who was then travelling, arriving there at the
same time, went to the _Meeting House_ of the Quakers to hear him
preach.” In George Fox’s journal, there is an entry which proves that
the Quakers have existed as a distinct society in Chester for about 200
years. Under date 1657, he writes: “From Wrexham we came to west
Chester, and it being the fair time, we staid there awhile and _visited
Friends_.” The resident members of this society are now very few, and
the service is seldom performed.
THE PRIMITIVE METHODISTS
have a small chapel in Steam-Mill-street, erected about the year 1825,
and the members of the society appear to be on the increase.
THE ROMAN CATHOLIC CHAPEL
is situated on the west side of Queen-street. It is a small but good
brick building, with a Doric portico, supported by four light stone
pillars in front, and was built in 1799. The chapel is now found to be
too small for the congregation, and the erection of a larger edifice is
contemplated, when the requisite funds can be provided. The Rev. J.
Carberry is the present priest in residence.
THE PRESBYTERIAN CHAPEL
is situated in Pepper-street. It was erected, in 1827, by the Baptists,
but the congregation becoming very small, it was closed some years ago.
In 1846 it was reopened for Presbyterian worship, and has continued to be
occupied by a small but respectable society. The Rev. W. Hunter is the
minister.
ENDOWED AND CHARITABLE SCHOOLS.
THE KING’S SCHOOL.
This school was founded by King Henry the Eighth, in the thirty-sixth
year of his reign, for twenty-four boys to receive £3 4s. each, who are
appointed by the Dean and Chapter. By the charter it is ordained, “that
there shall ever be in our church of Chester twenty-four boys, poor and
friendless, to be maintained out of the income of our church, of good
capacities and given to learning if possible; which, however, we would
not have admitted before they can read and write, and somewhat understand
the rudiments of grammar; and this at the discretion of the Dean and Head
Master. And these boys we will have maintained at the expense of our
church until they have made some tolerable proficiency in the Latin
grammar, and have been taught to write and speak Latin, for which end
they are allowed the term of four years, or, if the Dean or Head Master
see cause, of five and no more. But we order that no one, unless he be a
chorister of our church, be elected a poor scholar that is under the age
of nine years.” Some important alterations have recently been made in
the management of the school, which have very considerably increased its
efficiency. We are happy to find that the inhabitants of Chester are
availing themselves of the great advantages provided by this excellent
institution. The course of instruction has been made such as to qualify
the scholars for any of the literary professions or commercial pursuits,
embracing as it does all the elements of a sound mathematical, classical,
and general education. The Head Master is the Rev. J. Harris, M.A. The
chorister boys are educated apart, by a master expressly appointed for
that purpose by the Dean and Chapter.
THE DIOCESAN SCHOOL.
This institution was established, January 2, 1812, by public
subscription, under the patronage of the Bishop of Chester. It is
situated on the south side of the top of George-street, is 80 feet long
by 33 wide, and is capable of accommodating 400 children. It is
supported by benefactions and annual subscriptions, and the institution
is in a most prosperous condition; its object is to promote a good
education among the children of the poor. The present master is Mr.
Beswick, who is efficiently fulfilling the duties of his office.
There are also the Blue Coat School, established by Bishop Stratford, in
1700; the Blue Girls’ School, established in 1721; Infant schools,
established in 1825, under the patronage of Bishop Blomfield; Diocesan
Training College, erected in 1742, of which the Principal is the Rev.
Arthur Rigg, M.A.
CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS.
The General Infirmary; Chester Humane Society; The Female Penitentiary;
Female House of Refuge.