A WALK ROUND THE WALLS OF CHESTER.
THE Chester walls are the only perfect specimen of this order of ancient
fortification now to be met with in England. There is nothing, perhaps,
which impresses a stranger more forcibly, or sooner attracts his interest
and curiosity, than these embattled memorials of the olden time.
In King’s ‘Vale Royal’ it is stated that they were first built by Marius,
King of the Britons, A.D. 73. Leland and Selden, both authors of credit,
attribute to the Romans the foundation of Chester. According to Geoffry
of Monmouth, Higden, Bradshaw the Monk, and Stowe, it is of an origin
more ancient than Rome itself, and was only re-edified by the
legionaries; but, in support of their assertions, the aforesaid writers,
all of whom delight in the marvellous, give no other authority save vague
tradition. On the other hand, the Walls of Chester, at this hour, bear
witness to the truth of Leland and Selden’s account of their origin.
They are built of soft freestone, and command extensive and beautiful
prospects. The view from the Northgate, with the Welsh Hills in the
distance, is universally admired. The Walls are a mile and
three-quarters and one hundred and twenty-one yards in circumference, and
are kept in repair by the Corporation.
We commence our perambulation at a flight of steps on the North side of
the Eastgate. Proceeding to the right a short distance, the venerable
Cathedral arrests our attention.
At the end of Abbey-street is a small archway or passage through the
Walls, leading to the Kale-yards, or cabbage gardens, which formerly
belonged to the Abbot and Convent of St. Werburgh. This opening was
permitted to be made for their convenience, in the reign of Edward I., to
prevent the necessity of bringing their vegetables by a circuitous road
through the Eastgate.
A few paces farther on was a quadrangular abutment, on which formerly
stood a tower called _The Sadlers’ Tower_, from the Company of Sadlers
holding their meetings there. The tower was taken down in 1780; and the
abutment, which marked the place where it stood, was taken down, in 1828.
The elevated tower on the Canal bank belongs to the extensive Shot and
White Lead Manufactory of Messrs. Walker, Parker, and Co., and forms a
prominent object in the different approaches to the City.
The lofty tower which stands at the angle is called
THE PHŒNIX TOWER,
which was formerly used by some of the companies of the city, whose arms
were placed upon it, as a chamber for business. Of these the _Phœnix_,
the crest of the Painters’ and Stationers’ Company, which was put up in
1613, now only remains.
From the summit of this tower, King Charles I. had the mortification to
see his army, under the generalship of Sir Marmaduke Langdale, defeated
by the Parliamentary forces, which were led by General Pointz, at the
battle of Rowton Moor, on the 27th September, 1645. From its elevation
and command of view over the township of Newton, it was formerly called
_Newton’s Tower_. Linked as it is with that eventful battle during one
of the most significant epochs of our national history, it is not
surprising that it is always regarded with intense curiosity, as a
suggestive memorial of most interesting occurrences. The mind is
involuntarily carried back to the period when our country was involved in
the discord, strife, and bloodshed of civil war; and, perhaps, as
involuntarily reflects on the genial and happy change which the progress
of knowledge, freedom, and religion has accomplished in the minds and
institutions of the people. We can now occupy the very spot on which the
hapless monarch beheld the discomfiture of his hopes and power; but can
gaze upon a prospect very different from that which greeted his vision,
and with emotions more grateful than those which then distracted the
monarch’s breast. His Majesty remained that night in Chester, and on the
following day marched with 500 horse into Wales.
Beneath the walls here, deeply cut in the solid rock, is the Ellesmere
and Chester Canal.
Between the Eastgate and Phœnix Tower the remains of the Roman Walls are
conspicuous in the lower courses. At the distance of about seven feet
from the top of the parapet, the Roman portion is terminated by a
cornice, which extends in broken lengths for at least 100 yards.
[Picture: King Charles’ Tower, City Walls, Chester]
In the time of the great Rebellion, a ditch surrounded the Walls, from
the Eastgate to the Water Tower. The view which is obtained from the
elevation of this part of the Walls is very extensive and beautiful. As
you approach the North from the Eastgate, the ranges of Peckforton Hills,
Beeston Castle, and the Forest of Delamere, form the background of the
landscape, marked on the foreground with Waverton and Christleton
churches; and, still nearer, the commodious Railway Station.
Next we arrive at
THE NORTHGATE.
The ancient gate, over which the gaol was situated, and where criminals
were formerly executed, was taken down in 1808, and the prisoners removed
to a more commodious building on the south side of the infirmary.
The present gate is a Doric structure, forming a capacious elliptic arch
of white stone, divided from two smaller ones at the sides by two
pillars. It was erected at the expense of the late Marquis of
Westminster. The North side bears this inscription—
PORTAM SEPTENTRIONALEM SVBSTRVCTAM
A ROMANIS VETVSTATE JAM DILAPSAM
IMPENSIS SVIS AB INTEGRO RESTITVENDAM
CVRAVIT ROBERTVS COMES GROSVENOR.
A. R. GEORGII TERTII LI.
On the South side is the following:—
INCHOTA GVLIELMO NEWELL ARM. MAI.
MDCCCVIII.
PERFECTA THOMA GROSVENOR ARM. MAI.
MDCCCX.
THOMA HARRISON ABCHITECTO.
The summit of this gate commands a most extensive and delightful
prospect. On each side of the gate is a commodious flight of steps, by
which the passenger may descend into Northgate-street.
Near the gate, and on the left hand of Upper Northgate-street, stands the
Blue-coat Hospital, which was founded by subscription in 1700, at the
suggestion of Bishop Stratford. The greater part of the present
structure was built in 1717, partly at the expense of the Corporation and
partly by benefactions. Thirty-two boys are boarded, clothed, and
educated, from the age of twelve to fourteen. There are also sixty
probationary day scholars, who succeed to the vacancies of the former.
They are well educated in the various branches of useful knowledge, and
at the age of fourteen are provided with respectable situations.
The chapel, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, called Little St. John’s,
occupies the south wing of this building; it was formerly an hospital, or
sanctuary, and endowed with great privileges. It is extra-parochial, and
a perpetual curacy is in the gift of the Corporation. The Rev. William
Clarke is the present curate. The hospital is of great antiquity, having
been founded by Randal, Earl of Chester, for a master, three chaplains,
and thirteen citizens of Chester, being either “poor or sillie, or poor
or feeble persons.” The mastership was granted in the ninth year of
Edward Second to the prior of Birkenhead.
The chapel and hospital being destroyed during the civil wars, were
rebuilt by Colonel Roger Whitley, to whom King Charles Second granted the
hospital estate for his life and twenty years after. When the city
charter was renewed in 1686, the reversions were granted to the mayor and
citizens for ever, as trustees for the hospital. The Corporation
obtained possession in 1703, and have since exercised the right of
presentation. In the time of King Henry VIII. it consisted of a chaplain
and six poor brethren; and had lands and profits to the amount of £28
10s. 4d. In later days there were in the Chapel-yard six almshouses for
widows, who were each allowed £1 6s. 8d. a year and some perquisites. In
1801, Alderman Crewe bequeathed £30 per annum to be divided amongst them
in equal proportions. Under an amended scheme, by order of the Court of
Chancery, in 1852, the almshouses were rebuilt, and provision is now made
for thirteen “poor and impotent persons of both sexes,” to each of whom
the sum of £26 a year, by weekly payments of 10s., is given. They have
free occupation of the houses, and £30 per annum. Alderman Crewe’s
legacy is expended for their benefit in coals and other articles of
domestic comfort.
Proceeding on our circuit, we next reach a curious square building called
MORGAN’S MOUNT, a platform on the right, accessible by a flight of steps,
underneath which is a sort of chamber, apparently one of the stations for
a sentinel. From the summit we have a wide-spreading and enchanting
prospect, exhibiting the windings of the Dee to its estuary; Flint
Castle; the Jubilee Column, on Moel Fammau; the Lighthouse, at the point
of Ayr; the beautiful range of the Clwyddian hills; and the church and
castle of Hawarden. On the right, a very excellent view is presented of
the
TRAINING COLLEGE,
which was erected from a design and under the superintendence of Messrs.
J. C. and G. Buckler, of London, at an estimated cost of £10,000, raised
by public subscription, assisted by a grant from Government, and was
completed in September, 1842. The institution is under the presidency of
the Lord Bishop of the diocese, and has the sanction of the Deans and
Chapters of Chester and Manchester. The object it seeks to promote is,
the supply of the parochial schools of the Diocese of Chester with
masters well qualified by a sound religious and scientific training, for
the discharge of their important duties. Hitherto, it has nobly
sustained its purpose, and, by regularly sending forth men whose minds
have been brought under thorough discipline, and well furnished with
general knowledge and science, is doing very much towards the elevation
of parochial education in the diocese. The college is under the able
direction of the Rev. Arthur Rigg, M.A., of Christ’s College, Cambridge.
A handsome chapel is attached to the college.
In the Minutes of the Committee of Council on Education for 1850, there
are the following remarks, by the Rev. Henry Moseley, upon the Chester
Training College:—
“I have to bear the same testimony as heretofore to the excellent
discipline of the Institution; to the great order that pervades it;
and to the judicious arrangements made in respect to the industrial
training of the students, the industry, cheerfulness, and activity
with which these labours are pursued, in the intervals of study, is
most pleasing to contemplate. I know no other training school which,
in respect to these things, appears to me superior to this; and I
attach to them, in a moral point of view, the first importance. Nor
do I know any other in which the buildings appear to me better
adapted to the use of a training school, or in which those minor
arrangements, on which the domestic comfort of the inmates and the
good order of the household depend, are more carefully observed.”
A few paces further on is an ancient tower, formerly called the _Goblin’s
Tower_, but now known by the name of PEMBERTON’S PARLOUR. Being in a
ruinous condition, part of it was taken down in 1702, and the remainder
renovated and repaired. On the front was some excellent carved work in
stone, and the names of the then Mayor (the Earl of Derby) and the other
corporate officers of the year in which the repairs were made; but in
consequence of the stone being of a soft and friable nature, and from
other causes, both the inscription and the carved work are now almost
obliterated. The inscription, so far as it is legible, is as follows:—
“ * * * year of the glorious reign of Queen Anne divers wide breaches
in these walls were rebuilt, and other decays therein were repaired;
2,000 yards of the pavement were new flagged or paved, and the whole
repaired, regulated, and adorned, at the expense of £1,000 and
upwards. Thomas Hand, Esq., Mayor, 1701. The Right Honourable
William, Earl of Derby, Mayor, 1702, who died in his Mayoralty.”
On the left is a large field, anciently called _Barrow Field_, which was
used by the Roman soldiers for their military exercises; a vast number of
bodies were buried here at one of the periods when the plague raged so
severely in the city.
[Picture: Water Tower & Museum, City Walls, Chester]
Continuing our route westward, we next come to
THE WATER TOWER,
an ancient fortress, erected for the purpose of repelling the approach of
maritime foes, for it appears that formerly the river flowed under this
part of the walls, so that vessels could sail close by the Tower. At
high tide, the whole of the land on which are now situated Crane-street
and the neighbourhood, was covered with water. At the south angle of the
walls is an old square tower, anciently called _Bonwaldesthorne’s Tower_,
from which is an embattled passage to the Water Tower, which was built in
1322, by contract for £100, by John Helpstone, a mason. The dimensions
were 24 yards in height, and 10½ yards in diameter. It had openings for
cannon and rings in the walls, to which ships were formerly moored. This
noble bulwark is suggestive of reflections of deep historic interest; for
at the siege of Chester by the Republican army, this place was bombarded
from the farm-house called Brewer’s Hall, on the opposite side of the
river, but without success. Many a gallant sentinel has here kept loyal
watch against the approach of the enemy. Happily, our age needs not
these ancient fortifications for the warlike purpose to which they were
originally devoted, and as an exhibition of the genius of the thirteenth
and nineteenth centuries in happy contrast, this tower, built for war, is
now occupied as a
MUSEUM OF THE MECHANICS’ INSTITUTION,
and is devoted to the more beneficent object of science and general
improvement. Although the Museum is but of recent origin, the zeal and
liberality of its supporters have already well furnished it with valuable
relies, which will interest the antiquary, and other curiosities of more
modern date, which afford gratification to all. The munificent
liberality of William Wardell, Esq., a devoted friend to every enterprise
which contemplates the social and intellectual advancement of the
citizens, enables us to point out an attractive object in the
CAMERA OBSCURA,
which is situated on the upper part of the tower. We can promise the
reader much amusement from this excellent instrument, which will furnish
him with a most charming prospect of the diversified and lovely scenery
of the district. On the top of the tower is fixed a very good telescope
by Dollond, which commands a most extensive and magnificent view. If the
day be favourable, and the atmosphere clear, we can stretch our gaze over
a wide and truly grand range of objects, embracing the Great Ormshead at
Llandudno in Carnarvonshire, the Wrekin in Shropshire, Moel Fammau and
the Welsh Hills, towering aloft in their tranquil majesty. Across the
river is Brewer’s Hall, which we have mentioned, where Cromwell’s army
erected a battery, for the purpose of destroying this tower, “but which
had no great effect;” close by is the Railway Viaduct of forty-seven
arches, and the Bridge crossing the Dee on cast-iron girders; the whole
scene forming an exceedingly fine panorama.
At the foot of the flight of steps close by are the City Baths and
Wash-houses. The swimming bath is very capacious, and the necessary
adjuncts most complete: there are also private and shower baths.
We now resume our walk; and, proceeding southwards from the Water Tower,
on the left, is
THE INFIRMARY;
a handsome brick building, founded by Dr. William Stratford, who
bequeathed £300 to the charity. It was opened on the 17th March, 1761.
It is capable of containing 100 beds, with commodious offices, and
excellent accommodation for its respective officers. The north part of
the building is exclusively devoted to a fever ward. This asylum for the
afflicted is liberally supported by voluntary subscriptions. Donors of
twenty guineas, and subscribers of two guineas per annum, are governors,
with the privilege of recommending two in-patients, and six out-door
patients annually.
The inmates receive the most humane and skilful attention from the
medical staff, which consists of Honorary Physicians and Surgeons, a
Resident Surgeon, and an Assistant.
The number of patients admitted during the year 1857 were—
In-patients 547
Home-patients 1,120
Out-patients 2,393
The total number since the foundation of the 230,075.
institution,
Of all the charitable institutions which do honour to the benevolence of
the city, the Infirmary ranks the first in beneficial and important
operations, and eminently deserves the sympathy and support of the
public.
The next large building close by is
THE CITY GAOL,
which also includes the HOUSE OF CORRECTION; both are under the
superintendence of a committee of the Town Council. The Gaol is in the
western part of the building, with a good Doric entrance. Over the front
entrance, within the iron railing, the condemned criminals are executed.
The entrance to the House of Correction is at the east end, and is also
of stone. Each of these establishments has four courts, with cells and
day rooms adjoining; and both are under the government of one gaoler and
a male and female assistant. There is a chapel common to both
establishments. The chaplain is appointed by the Corporation. In
consequence of the escapes the prisoners have succeeded in making from
time to time, many improvements have been made in the internal
arrangements of the prison, since it was first built, respecting the
classification of prisoners and other matters; and the outworks of the
building have received some important additions to ensure their greater
security. A little further on to the left is Stanley-place, a pleasant,
open square of modern residences, leading to the Linen Hall Cheese Mart,
which is well supplied at the fairs, held six times during the year, with
Cheese from the dairies of Cheshire and North Wales.
We now ascend a handsome gateway called
THE WATERGATE,
the custody of which formerly belonged to the Earls of Derby, who held a
valuable river jurisdiction, in executing the mayor’s warrants on the
Dee, which formerly flowed close underneath. It was purchased from the
Derby family by the Corporation in 1778, taken down in 1788, and the
present structure erected in 1789, the expense being defrayed out of the
murage duties fund. It consists of a wide and lofty arch, thrown over
the Watergate-street, where a rapid descent adds much to its apparent
elevation. The west side bears the following inscription:—
IN THE XXIX. YEAR OF THE REIGN OF GEO. III. IN THE
MAYORALTY OF JOHN HALLWOOD, AND JOHN LEIGH, ESQUIRES,
THIS GATE WAS ERECTED.
THOMAS COTGREAVE, EDWARD BURROWS, ESQUIRES, MURENGERS.
The view from the summit of this gate is very extensive, the objects
immediately surrounding adding much to the pleasure of the scene. On the
opposite bank of the river Dee is Curzon Park, with its beautiful villa
residences. On the left is Grosvenor Bridge, with its far-famed noble
arch, the widest arch of masonry in the world; a little beyond may be
seen the grand lodge entrance to Eaton Park, erected at the cost of
£14,000, the _toute ensemble_ forming a most charming picture. The site
of the present Crane-street and the parts adjacent were formerly under
water.
Immediately below is the beautiful and spacious meadow called the
ROODEYE.
It contains about eighty-four statute acres of land, and is let by the
Corporation as a pasture for cattle. It was once the arena for ancient
sports, and the city games and gymnastics were celebrated here,
respecting which there are many curious records extant. Of these,
however, the horse races alone remain, which continue to be held in the
first week of May, this Spring meeting being considered one of the most
important and interesting illustrations of the national sports of the
turf. The course is little more than a mile, and affords the spectators
the singular advantage of seeing the horses during the whole race. The
Earl of Chester’s Regiment of Yeomanry Cavalry assembles annually on the
Roodeye for exercise.
The antiquity of the Chester races appears from the following extract
from the collection of the late Mr. Nicholls of Chorlton, to whose
researches the authors of the ‘History of Cheshire’ are much indebted.
The MS. from which this is extracted is entitled,
“_Certayne collections of anciante times_, _concerning the anciante
and famous cittie of Chester_, _collected by that Reverend Man of
God_, _Mr. Robert Rogers_, _bachelor of divinitie_, _archdeacon of
Chester_, _parsone of Gooseworth_, _and prebande in the Cathedral of
Chester_, _being put in scattered notes_, _and by his son reduced
into these chapters following_:—
“OF ST. GEORGE’S RACE, OF LATE TIME INVENTED, AND WHEN ALTERED.
“In A.D. 1609, Mr. William Lester, mercer, beinge mayor of Chester,
one Mr. Robert Amerye, ironmonger, sometime sheriffe of Chester (A.D.
1608), he, with the assent of the mayor and cittie, at his own coste
chiefly, as I conceive chiefly, caused three silver cupps, of goode
value, to be made, the which saide silver cupps were, upon St.
George’s daye, for ever to be thus disposed: all gentlemen that would
bringe their horses to the Rood-dee that daye, and there run, that
horse which with speede did over-rune the reste, shoulde have the
beste cuppe there presently delivered, and that horse which came
seconde, next the firste, before the reste, had the seconde cuppe
there also delivered; and for the thirde cuppe, it was to be run for
at the ringe, by any gentleman that woulde rune for the same, upon
the said Rood-dee, and upon St. George’s daye; being thus decreed,
that every horse putt in soe much monie as made the value of the
cupps or bells, and had the money, which horses did winne the same,
and the use of the cupps, till that day twelve month, beinge in bonde
to deliver in the cupps that daye; soe also for the cuppe for the
ringe, which was yearly continued accordingly, until the yeare of our
Lord 1623; John Brereton, inn-holder, beinge mayor of Chester, he
altered the same after this manner, and caused the three cupps to be
sould, and caused more money to be gathered and added, soe that the
intereste thereof would make one faire silver cuppe, of the value of
£8 as I suppose, it maye be more worth, and the race to be altered,
viz., from beyonde the New Tower a great distance, and soe to rune
five times from that place rownd about the Rood-dee, and he that
overcame all the reste the last course, to have the cuppe freely for
ever, then and there delivered, which is continued to this daye. But
here I must not omit the charge, and the solemnitie made the first of
St. George’s daye; he had a poet, one Mr. Davies, who made speeches
and poeticale verses, which were delivered at the high crosse, before
the mayor and aldermen, with shews of his invention, which booke was
imprinted and presented to that famous Prince Henry, eldest sonne to
the blessed King James, of famous memorie. Alsoe he caused a man to
go upon the spire of St. Peter’s steeple in Chester, and by the fane,
at the same tyme he sounded the drum, and displayed a banner upon the
top of the same spire. And this was the original of St. George’s
race with the change thereof, as it is now used.”
[Picture: Chester Cemetery]
On the west side of the Roodeye stands
THE HOUSE OF INDUSTRY,
built by the Corporation in 1757, as a refuge for age and indigence.
Warm and cold baths are established for the use of the inmates, whose
comfort is most studiously consulted and provided for. The pleasant row
of houses on the right of the Roodeye is called Paradise-row, the site of
which, as appears by an ancient map, was once in the bed of the river.
Soon after passing the Watergate, on the left, there is an opening to the
city, called Smith’s-walk, at the bottom of which stands a large house,
on the site of which formerly stood the Priory of White Friars or
Carmelites.
On the north side of the open field on the left is a pleasant mansion,
now the Rectory house of St. Bridget’s parish, but formerly the residence
of the late Thomas Harrison, Esq., the celebrated architect, who has
immortalized his genius in some of the finest works of which Chester can
boast. Near this spot once stood a convent of Benedictine nuns,
dedicated to St. Mary. It was suppressed, with the other lesser
monasteries, in 1537, and no vestige of the ancient building now remains.
Before proceeding further on our circuit round the walls, we recommend
the visitor to turn off to the right on the road, for the purpose of
inspecting the
NEW CEMETERY, near the Grosvenor Bridge.
It is beautifully laid out, and arranged with admirable taste, and was
rendered necessary by the overcrowded state of the parochial burial
grounds. Opposite the Cemetery gates is a suspension bridge, for foot
passengers, to Curzon Park, whence we have a fine panoramic view of
Chester.
We now retrace our steps to survey that interesting structure,
THE CASTLE.
We have no precise authority whereby to ascertain the date of the
foundation of Chester Castle. Some think there is good reason to believe
it to be of Roman origin, and of equal antiquity with the City Walls.
Others have fixed the date of its erection A.D. 1069, by William the
Conqueror; but there are some considerations which seem to point to an
earlier period than this. It is stated by Camden to have been _repaired_
by Hugh Lupus, and additional fortifications erected by the Norman Earls
his successors. It was certainly the palace of the local monarchs, as
well as their chief stronghold, and retained much of this mixed character
until modern alterations were made. Pennant describes the Castle, as it
formerly stood, as being composed of two parts, an upper and a lower,
each with a strong gate, defended by a round bastion on each side, with a
ditch and draw-bridges.
In 1237, upon the death of John Scott, the last earl of the Norman line,
the Commissioners of Henry III. seized Chester Castle for the King.
In 1265 James De Aldithley and Urian De St. Pierre, at the head of the
citizens of Chester, besieged Luke De Taney, King’s Justice, in the
Castle, which held out for ten weeks, when, upon receiving intelligence
of the battle of Evesham, he surrendered.
Henry of Lancaster (afterwards Henry IV.), having taken up arms against
Richard II. in 1399, mustered his army upon the bank of the Dee, under
the walls of Chester, and Sir Piers Legh of Lyme, an adherent of Richard,
was beheaded, and his head set upon the top of the highest tower in the
Castle. Shortly afterwards, the unfortunate Richard and the Earl of
Salisbury were brought prisoners to Chester, mounted (says Hall) “upon
two little nagges, not worth forty franks,” when the King was delivered
“to the Duke of Gloucester’s sonne and the Earl of Arundell’s sonne, that
loved him but a little, for he had put their fathers to death, who led
him strait to the castell.”
In 1403 Henry Percy, surnamed Hotspur, visited Chester on his way to the
fatal field of Shrewsbury, and caused proclamation to be made, that King
Richard was yet alive, and a prisoner in Chester Castle, where he might
be seen.
Eleanor, Duchess of Gloucester, wife of the _Good Duke Humphrey_, was
confined for several months in Chester Castle, in 1447, previous to her
removal to the Isle of Man, under a sentence of perpetual imprisonment,
on a charge of “practising the King’s death.”
Here, in 1651, the Puritans, in their peculiar phraseology, “_sought the
Lord_,” by trying and condemning to death the gallant and patriotic Earl
of Derby, Sir Timothy Featherstonehaugh, and Captain Benbow. According
to Whitlocke, the Earl “attempted to escape, and was let down by a rope
from the leads of his chamber; but some hearing a noise, made after him,
and he was retaken upon Dee bank.”
The ancient structure was taken down at the close of the last century,
and the present edifice erected on its site.
The principal entrance is through a handsome portico of Grecian Doric
architecture. It is 103 feet by 35, and consists of a centre and two
wings connected by covered passages. The ten fluted columns, which
compose the peristyle in the centre, are each cut out of a single block
of stone. It is situated in the centre of a semicircular sunk fence or
foss, 13 feet deep, and 390 feet in diameter, cased with hewn stone,
surmounted with stone pedestals at equal distances, and the spaces filled
with handsome iron rails, forming the north-west boundary of the
esplanade.
On the western side of the esplanade is the Armoury, capable of
containing between 30,000 and 40,000 stand of arms. This is well worthy
the inspection of strangers, who cannot fail to be struck with the
excellent state in which the military stores are kept, and the tasteful
arrangement of the arms.
Within the gate at the east end of this range of buildings is the
guard-house, behind which is a venerable tower, called _Julius
Agricola’s_, or _Cæsar’s_, which is still entire, and partly occupied as
a magazine. Within this tower is a curious chapel, mentioned in the
tax-book of Henry VIII. as the chantry “_infra Castrum Cestriæ_” and
yielding as its tenth 10s. 8d. It is an upper chamber, about 19 feet by
16, and 16 feet in height. The roof, which is vaulted and groined, is of
stone. On one side is a plain pointed recess in the wall, the back of
which appears to have been ornamented with paintings, and was probably
the altar. James II. heard mass in this chapel.
THE GAOL AND COUNTY HALL.
The principal entrance to the Shire Hall is through a portico of twelve
columns in double rows, 22 feet high, and 3 feet 1½ inches in diameter,
each formed of a single stone. The ceiling, roof, and covering, are also
of stone. The hall is of a semicircular form, measuring 80 feet by 50,
including the judgment-seat, and 44 feet high, and is lighted from above.
The ceiling is a semi-dome, boldly caissoned with ventilators opening to
the roof, in the shape of ornamental roses. It is supported by a row of
twelve Ionic columns, each composed of a single stone, from the bases of
which there is a gradual descent by a flight of circular steps to the
bar, which enables every one in the body of the court to have a perfect
view of the judges, counsel, prisoners, and witnesses. There is a
subterraneous passage from the dock to the prison, which affords both
facility and safety in the removal of the prisoners.
On the right of the entrance to the County Hall are the Grand Jury Room
and the Prothonotary’s Offices. In a small room on the ground floor is
the model of the Grosvenor Bridge, and there are full length portraits of
William III., Charles II., George I., George II., and Frederick, Prince
of Wales.
On the left is the entrance to the County Gaol, which may vie in every
respect with any other establishment of the sort in the kingdom. It is
built upon two levels. On the east side of the range of buildings on the
upper level is the Deputy-Governor’s house; adjoining are the day and
sleeping rooms of the male debtors, with a large and commodious yard,
commanding a view of the surrounding country; and in an extensive wing
are the convicts’ cells, apartments for the female debtors and prisoners,
with the matron’s house and hospital. In the centre, projecting beyond
the level, and of a semicircular form, so as to command a view of the
court yards, &c., are the gaoler’s or governor’s apartments. Underneath
the governor’s apartments, and of the same form, is the chapel, which has
lately been rebuilt and much improved. It is situate between the upper
and lower level, and so contrived as to receive the debtors and criminals
into different compartments, from their respective court yards. Divine
service is performed in the chapel every morning during the week, and
twice every Sunday. The Rev. J. M. Kilner is the present chaplain, who
is most indefatigable in the discharge of his duties. On the lower
level, under the jailor’s house, are the felons’ yards, five in number.
They are spacious and airy, and each contains a pump and trough. A sort
of area or passage surrounds these yards, and beyond that is the outside
wall, built of immense blocks of stone, and conveying at once the idea of
security and solidity. Nothing can exceed the excellent discipline and
general arrangement of the prisoners. A large proportion of the
prisoners are profitably employed, under the superintendence of a
task-master. They are chiefly engaged in calico, rug, and carpet
weaving, shoe-making, and basket-making. The greater part of the
articles of clothing and bed furniture used within the walls are
manufactured by them; and the store-room presents the appearance of a
complete depository of useful articles for the prison, of almost every
description.
There is also a commodious schoolroom, which is efficiently
superintended. Everything relating to the internal management of this
prison is complete in each department, and reflects the highest credit on
the governor, Mr. Dunstan.
Previous to the new erections, on the east side of the lower court stood
the ancient Shire Hall, in which the courts of justice for the county
used to be held. It was a magnificent building, nearly 90 feet in
length, and 45 in breadth; the height very lofty, and worthy the state
apartment of the first Norman Earl, Hugh Lupus, who required a hall
suitable to the greatness of his hospitality. Adjoining to this hall was
the Court of Exchequer, or Court of Chancery, of the county palatine of
Chester. It was the Parliament House of the little kings of the
palatinate, and had neat gothic seats for the abbot and eight barons.
The east side of the esplanade is appropriated to Barracks, which contain
excellent and spacious accommodations. Behind the Barracks is the
Provost, with an enclosed yard. It is no longer employed for this
purpose, having been, some time since, converted into an armoury for
pensioners, military library and reading-room, &c. This wing, and the
opposite one on the west side of the esplanade, were built at the joint
expense of the Crown and the County Palatine.
Proceeding through the gate at the east end, we come to
THE SESSIONS HOUSE,
a neat and commodious edifice, with a tolerably spacious court,
magistrates’ and grand jury rooms, and a robing room for counsel on the
ground floor; and upstairs are the Clerk of the Peace’s record rooms and
other offices.
Before leaving the Castle yard, the attention of the visitor will
naturally be attracted by memorials of the Crimean war, in the form of
two Russian guns, mounted on either side of the grand entrance, under a
portico, enclosed with iron railings. On each of these formidable pieces
of ordnance is inscribed the following historical memorandum:
THIS GUN
WAS CAPTURED BY THE ALLIED ARMIES OF
ENGLAND, FRANCE, TURKEY, AND SARDINIA,
AT SEVASTOPOL,
ON THE 8TH DAY OF SEPTEMBER, 1855,
AND PRESENTED BY
HER MAJESTY
TO THE CITIZENS OF CHESTER,
IN COMMEMORATION OF THAT ARDUOUS SIEGE.
VICTORIA REGINA.
Having completed our view of the Castle, we return to continue our walk,
proceeding along the walls until we reach the boundary of the Castle,
where the tourist will have a fine view of the
GROSVENOR BRIDGE.
This noble work of art, which is unequalled in the history of
bridge-building, crosses the Dee at the south-east angle of the Roodeye,
and is approached by a new road from the centre of Bridge-street, which
passes by the Castle esplanade, proceeds across the City Walls, and then,
by an immense embankment, thrown over a deep valley, to the foot of the
bridge. The bridge consists of one main stone arch, with a small dry
arch or towing path on each side, by which the land communication is
preserved on both sides of the river. The cost of erection was £36,000.
The great distinguishing feature of this edifice is the unparalleled
width of the chord or span of the main arch, which is of greater extent
than that of any other known to have been constructed. Of its dimensions
the following is an accurate delineation:—The span of the arch, _two
hundred feet_. {40} Height of the arch from the springing line, 40 feet.
Dimensions of the main abutments, 48 feet wide by 40, with a dry arch as
a towing path at each side, 20 feet wide, flanked with immense wing
walls, to support the embankment. The whole length of the roadway, 340
feet. Width of the bridge from outside the parapet walls, 35 feet 6
inches, divided thus: carriage road, 24 feet; the two causeways, 9 feet;
thickness of the parapet walls, 2 feet 6 inches. Altitude from the top
of the parapet wall to the river at low-water mark, 66 feet 6 inches.
The architectural plan of this bridge was furnished by the late Thomas
Harrison, Esq.; contractor and builder, Mr. James Trubshaw, of
Staffordshire; surveyor, Mr. Jesse Hartley, of Liverpool. The first
stone was laid on the 1st October, 1827, by the late Marquis of
Westminster, and a specimen of each of the current coins of the realm
deposited therein; and was formally opened in October, 1832, by her Royal
Highness the Princess Victoria (her present Most Gracious Majesty), on
occasion of her visit, and that of her Royal mother, the Duchess of Kent,
to Eaton Hall. As a compliment to her noble host, at the request of the
commissioners, the bridge was named “Grosvenor Bridge,” by the young
Princess. It was opened to the public in December, 1833.
It was opposite to this part of the Walls that King Edgar’s palace was
situated, from which he was rowed up the river to St. John’s Priory, by
eight tributary princes, in 971.
Within seventy yards of the bridge formerly stood an ancient Roman
gateway in the walls, called the SHIPGATE, or _Hole in the Wall_, at one
time the only entrance into Chester from Handbridge. It was taken down
some years ago, and is now in the possession of Thomas Finchett Maddock,
Esq. It forms a perfect specimen of Roman masonry, originally 20 feet in
height by 16 in breadth. Pennant remarks, “that this postern seems
originally to have been designed for the common passage over the Dee into
the country of the Ordovices, either by means of a boat at high water, or
by a ford at low, the river here being remarkably shallow.” Opposite the
Shipgate is a ford in the river leading through to a field on the
Handbridge side, called _Edgar’s Field_, in which stands the ancient
sculpture of the _Diva Armigera_ PALLAS, already mentioned under the head
of “ROMAN ANTIQUITIES,” in a former part of this work.
Pursuing our walk, we next arrive at
THE BRIDGEGATE,
a handsome arch gateway, having two posterns, erected in 1782, at the
expense of the Corporation. On the tablet over the western postern is
the following inscription:—
THIS GATE WAS BEGUN APRIL, MDCCLXXXII., PATISON
ELLAMES, ESQ., MAYOR, AND FINISHED DECEMBER THE
SAME YEAR, THOMAS PATISON, ESQ., MAYOR.
THOS. COTGREAVE, ESQ., HENRY HESKETH, ESQ., MURENGERS.
JOSEPH TURNER, ARCHITECT.
On another tablet, on the east side,—
THIS GATE, HAVING BEEN LONG INCONVENIENT,
WAS TAKEN DOWN A.D. MDCCLXXXI.
JOSEPH SNOW, ESQ., MAYOR.
THOS. AMERY, HENRY HEGG, TREASURERS.
From the top of this gateway the banks of the Dee, with the bridge, and
suburbs of Handbridge, present a lively and striking appearance, which at
low water is increased by the rapid falling of the stream over the
causeway across the river immediately above the bridge. In the distance
may be seen Beeston Castle, on its lofty summit; and the successive
ranges of Bucklow and Peckforton Hills form a beautiful background to the
landscape.
A little southward stands
THE OLD BRIDGE,
which is of considerable antiquity. A wooden bridge was erected on the
same spot by the Mercian Princess Ethelfleda, early in the tenth century;
but from the ‘Chronicle of Chester Abbey,’ we learn that in 1227 “pons
Cestriæ totus cecidit;” and that in 1279 “mare erupit, pontem Cestriæ
confregit et asportavit.” The wooden bridge being thus disposed of, we
next find from the ‘Red Book of St. Werburgh,’ that “in 1280 the King
(Edward I.) compelled the citizens of Chester to rebuild Dee Bridge at
their own charge, contrary to the privileges which had been granted to
them.” In 1500, the south end of the Bridge, having fallen into decay,
was rebuilt, and a tower for its defence added at the entrance into
Handbridge, which was taken down about sixty years ago. In 1826 the
Bridge was widened to the extent of seven feet, by the addition of a
flagged footpath, on the east side, bounded towards the river by a good
iron railing, the projection supported by two courses of corbels.
It consists of seven irregular arches, and when viewed from the west,
presents an appearance of venerable antiquity; but on the east it no
longer holds out that recommendation to the eye of the observer, modern
alterations having left nothing on that side to render it worthy of
notice.
At the north end of the Bridge stand the
DEE MILLS,
used for the grinding of corn. Although the date of the first erection
of mills on this spot cannot now be ascertained, yet there is evidence of
their having been there from remote antiquity. Sir Howell-y-Fwyall
obtained a grant of them from Edward III. in reward for his services at
the battle of Poictiers. In the fifth of Edward VI. they were granted by
the Crown to Sir Richard Cotton, in exchange for the manors of Bourne and
Moreton, in Lincolnshire; and by his son George they were granted in fee
farm to Edmund Gamul, at a yearly rent of £100. Gamul expended a large
sum in repairing the causeway originally erected by Hugh Lupus. In 1646
an order of Parliament was issued, that the mills and causeway should be
destroyed, as an obstruction to trade; but this order, issued by the
Puritans then in power, probably with no other view than to obtain a
_composition_ from the proprietor, was never complied with. On the
alienation of the Gamul property, the greater part of the mills fell into
the hands of Mr. Edward Wrench, in whose successor the property is now
vested. The Dee Mills have been twice destroyed by fire within the last
sixty years. The first conflagration broke out about twelve at night, of
Saturday, September 26, 1789; the second, about the same hour of Saturday
night, March 6, 1819; on which latter occasion the progress of the flames
was so rapid, that the whole of the premises, with the exception of part
of the outward wall, were destroyed in less than six hours. The loss
sustained was upwards of £40,000. A third fire took place in January,
1847, which destroyed the whole of one of the mills.
We shall now proceed to notice
THE OLD BRIDGEGATE,
which appears to have been of equal antiquity with the bridge itself, for
it is shown by documents in the possession of the Earl of Shrewsbury,
that Randle, Earl of Chester, confirmed a gift of his Countess to Poyns,
her servant, of the custody of this gate. And another deed, of the
thirteenth century, preserved among the same documents, records, “quod
ego Ricardus Bagoth de Cestr: dedi et omnino quietam clamavi Philippo
clerico civi Cestr: _totum jus meum in porta pontis Cestr_: cum omnibus
pertinentijs suis.” From Philip the clerk the custody of this gate
passed to the family of Raby, one of whom, Philip de Raby, in the
fourteenth century, had also the keeping of the Earl’s garden at the
Castle, for which service he received the fruit of a tree called “a
_restynge tre_,” and whatever remained on the other trees after the first
shaking, under the _reddendo_ of furnishing the Earl’s household with
colewort from Michaelmas to Lent, and with leeks during Lent. From the
Rabys the custody of the Bridgegate passed to the Norrises of Speke, in
Lancashire, and the Troutbecks. In 1624 the Corporation purchased the
moiety belonging to the Norrises; and in 1660 they also purchased the
other moiety from the Earl of Shrewsbury, representative of the
Troutbecks, the Earl reserving to himself, during his visits to Chester,
the use of a suite of apartments in a house near the gate.
The Old Gate consisted of an arched gateway, flanked with two strong
round towers, on one of which was erected a lofty octagonal tower,
containing a cistern for supplying the city with water, called Tyrer’s
Water Works, concerning which Webb says, “The Bridgegate hath of late
been greatly beautified by a seemly water-work of stone, built
steeple-wise, by the ingenious industry and charge of a late worthy
member of the city, John Tyrer, gent., and hath served ever since to
great use, for the conveying of the river water from the cistern, in the
top of that work, to the citizens’ houses in almost all the parts of the
city, in pipes of lead and wood, _to their no small contentment and
commodity_.” The whole fabric was taken down in 1781.
Proceeding eastward, a most pleasing view of the Dee, of considerable
extent, is presented, with delightful cottage and villa residences on the
Boughton bank, and in a pleasant suburb called “Queen’s Park,” the
elegant suspension bridge to which forms a novel feature in the
landscape. On the left of the river is a cool and shady walk, called
_The Groves_, where there are excellent pleasure boats for the
accommodation of those who enjoy a sail or a pull up the river. We have
here a very good view of St. John’s Church on the right, a venerable
pile, containing some curious and interesting specimens of Norman
architecture.
Within about fifty yards of the Recorder’s steps, the wall forms an angle
to the northward. Here we ascend six flights of steps, consisting of
three steps each, called the _Wishing Steps_, erected in 1785, at the top
of which stood an ancient Watch Tower, which had formerly an apartment
with a stone seat on one side, and windows commanding a view of the river
and adjacent country. This room was removed in 1826.
We next arrive at
THE NEWGATE,
a plain arched gateway, forming a communication betwixt Newgate-street
and Pepper-street within the Walls, and St. John’s-street, Dee-lane, &c.,
without. On the spot now occupied by this gate, formerly stood a
postern, called _Wolf’s Gate_, or _Pepper Gate_. Of this postern, Fuller
says, that in the sixteenth century “the Mayor of the city had his
daughter, as she was playing at ball with other maidens in Pepper-street,
stolen away by a young man through the same gate, whereupon he caused it
to be shut up,” which gave rise to the saying, “When the daughter is
stolen, shut Pepper Gate.” The postern was removed and the Newgate
erected in 1608. From a Journal of the Siege of Chester, in King’s ‘Vale
Royal,’ it appears that on the 29th September, 1645, “the besiegers made
a breach in the walls near to the Newgate, by the battery of 150 cannon
shot, and at midnight made a sharp assault upon the breach. They
likewise attempted to mount the walls with scaling ladders, but some
officers and several soldiers were hauled in over the walls; some of the
ladders, too, were dragged over, and many of the assailants thrown down
and killed, and the rest forced to give over the attack.”
A short way further to the eastward, after passing the scanty remains of
an old tower abutting from the Walls, called _Thimbleby’s Tower_, we
arrive at a flight of steps leading to the Wesleyan Methodist Chapel in
St. John’s-street, the access to which from this quarter was made under
the sanction of the Corporation. This handsome and commodious place of
worship was erected in 1811. Near to the chapel is a large and
commodious School-house, recently erected, capable of containing from 200
to 300 children, which is occupied during the week as a day school, and
is in a prosperous condition.
A few paces now brings us to
THE EASTGATE,
consisting of a wide and beautiful centre arch for the passage of
carriages, and two posterns for the safety and convenience of foot
passengers. It was built at the sole expense of the late Marquis of
Westminster, whose arms, and those of the city, occupy the centre of the
principal arch. On the 8th August, 1768, the south-west corner stone of
the Eastgate was laid by John Page, Esq., Provincial Grand Master,
attended by four regular lodges of Freemasons; and the north-west
corner-stone by the Mayor, Sheriffs, and Aldermen of Chester. On the
east side, under the Grosvenor armorial bearings, is the following
inscription:—
ERECTED AT THE EXPENSE OF
RICHARD LORD GROSVENOR,
MDCCLXIX.
And on the west side, under the city arms,
BEGUN A.D. MDCCLXVIII, JOHN KELSALL,
ESQ., MAYOR. FINISHED A.D. MDCCLXIX,
CHAS. BOSWELL, ESQ., MAYOR.
From the summit of the gate there is a fine view of Eastgate-street,
within the walls, and Foregate, or Forest-street on the outside. On a
market day it is truly spirit-stirring to observe the multitude beneath,
and listen to the “busy hum of men,” citizens and country folks, engaged
in buying and selling,—bringing in and carrying out,—the various
commodities which furnish forth the provision market of a county town.
On the same spot formerly stood
THE OLD EASTGATE,
removed in 1768, as too narrow and inconvenient for one of the principal
entrances to the city. It consisted of a beautifully formed Gothic
archway, flanked by two massive octagonal embattled towers, connected by
a substantial building, two stories in height, over the gateway, the roof
of which was raised to a level with and embattled in the same manner as
the flanking towers to which it formed the centre. From the bearings on
four shields which ornamented the front of this gate, it is conjectured
to have been erected during the reign of Edward III.
A Roman gateway appears to have occupied the same spot at a still earlier
period; for in pulling down the Old Eastgate in 1768, two wide circular
arches of Roman architecture were discovered within its workmanship.
With all due admiration for the spirit of useful improvement which
dictated the erection of the present Eastgate, we cannot avoid expressing
our regret that the old one no longer remains to gratify the eye of the
antiquary and the man of taste. Although the present gate is undoubtedly
much better adapted for the entrance of carriages of all kinds, yet the
Cestrians of the last century, who remembered the glories of the old
structure, must have been but ill reconciled to its substitute.
Having thus completed the circuit of the Walls of Chester, as they at
present stand, it only remains to notice that there was formerly an outer
gate in Foregate-street, about half a mile from the Eastgate, called
THE BARS GATE,
which, being in a very dilapidated state, was removed as a nuisance in
1770. An outwork, in connection with this gate, was raised previous to
the siege of Chester in 1643. This outwork, consisting of a mud wall,
fortified with mounts and bastions, joined the City Wall at the New
Tower, from whence it stretched out to the north-east so far as to take
in Upper Northgate-street; then running eastward, encompassed all the
suburbs on the north of Foregate-street, until it approached Boughton,
when it turned southward, and proceeded in that direction across
Foregate-street at the Bars Gate, down Dee-lane, at the bottom of which
its course was terminated by the river. This outwork withstood a violent
assault by the Puritans under Sir William Brereton, on the 18th July,
1643, wherein the assailants were forced to retire with great loss; but
on the 19th of September, 1645, it was surprised and carried by a night
assault of the enemy, under the command of General Louthian, and was
afterwards occupied by the Puritans as a circumvallation, while
prosecuting the siege of the city.
“In perusing the foregoing sketch of our Walls, with the incidental
notices of contiguous objects, it is presumed, that individuals most
conversant with the localities of the city, will meet with several
particulars, either to gratify their curiosity or add to their
information. And it may also be hoped, that should the account be
read by those who are strangers to our ancient fortifications, and
the peculiar attractions of Chester, it may excite a commendable
inquisitiveness for a personal survey, at the same time that it may
assist as a directory to their inquiries. In whatever point of view
these old ramparts are considered, they possess an imposing interest,
and confer incalculable benefits. To the invalid, the sedentary
student, or the man of business, occupied during the day in his shop
or counting-house; to the habitually indolent, who require excitement
to necessary exercise—to all these, the promenade on Chester Walls
has most inviting attractions, where they may breathe all the
salubrious winds of heaven in a morning or an evening walk. Here the
enthusiastic antiquarian, who would climb mountains, ford rivers,
explore the bowels of the earth, and, regardless of toil and the
claims of nature, exhaust his strength in search of a piece of rusty
cankered brass, or a scrap of Roman earthenware, can scarcely advance
a dozen paces but the pavement on which he treads, or some contiguous
object, forces upon his observation the relics of times of earliest
date. Nor can the philosophic moralist encompass our venerable walls
without having his mind, comparing the splendid and gigantic works of
antiquity with their present condition, strongly impressed with the
mutations produced by the lapse of ages, and the perishing nature of
all mundane greatness.
“I shall conclude this branch of our history by citing the sentiments
of a man well known to the republic of letters, regarding our ancient
city, not indeed particularly as to her walls, but as to her general
attractions. His information, as a traveller, was varied and
extensive, and his discernment and intellect strong and acute. This
gentleman, who was no other than Mr. Boswell, in a letter to Dr.
Johnson, dated October 22, 1779, says, ‘Chester pleases me more than
any town I ever saw. I told a very pleasing young lady, niece to one
of the prebendaries (Miss Letitia Barnston), at whose house I saw
her, ‘I have come to Chester, Madam, I cannot tell how; and far less
can I tell how to get away from it.’ Dr. Johnson in reply says, ‘In
the place where you are there is much to be observed, and you will
easily procure yourself skilful directors.’ In another letter, dated
November 7, in the same year, Boswell remarks, ‘I was quite enchanted
at Chester, so that I could with difficulty quit it.’” {48}
[Picture: Watergate Street Row South, Chester]