In procuring your carbon tissue order at the same time a packet of

Single Transfer Paper, which is paper with a thin coating of hard

gelatine. Now to proceed. Place a piece of single transfer paper

into a dish of cold water, and in three or four minutes the coated

side will feel slimy, then place in the same dish a piece of the

printed tissue face upwards. This will probably curl up at first and

afterwards flatten out again. When this has happened or in a few

minutes after immersion bring the piece of single transfer paper and

the print together, film to film, so that they may be in contact,

and square one with the other. Now holding them by one edge,

withdraw them together by sliding them out of the dish on to a sheet

of thick glass, a large cutting glass serves well, or stout sheet of

zinc.

This should be supported in readiness at the rim of the dish.

Having the transfer paper and print now on the glass or zinc, hold

them firmly and with a rubber squeegee press them closely into

contact, squeezing as much water out as possible.

A better way perhaps is, if the dish is large enough, to place the

glass or zinc under the two papers whilst in the water and so raise

them out.

The squeegeeing must be done thoroughly, firmly, and all

over--several strokes being given in each direction.

Next lift the papers, now in firm contact and sticking together, and

place them between blotting paper on which is a heavy weight. The

next print may now be proceeded with and so on.

The print should be between blotting paper and under pressure for

about twenty minutes, after which it is removed to a dish of hot

water--almost as hot as the hands can comfortably bear, say 100° to

120° F.

After lying in this for a few moments the dark pigment will be seen

to be oozing out from between the two papers. When this has begun to

come pretty freely take one corner of the print and pull it away

from the transfer paper. It should come quite easily, and on being

peeled off entirely it is thrown away. We have now the transfer

paper bearing the printed film reversed, that is, the side which was

previously at the bottom and next the original paper support, is now

uppermost and can therefore be got at.

If we splash it or lave it with the hand, using the hot water, we

shall soon see what happens. The smudgy mass of pigment begins to

wash away and the picture gradually appears.

This constitutes development and we continue working it with hot

water until the whole is clear and bright, being careful not to

touch the film with fingers or anything but water, for being in a

very delicate and soft condition it would be certain to sustain

injury.

The hotter the water the greater its washing-off action, and hence

in cases of over-exposure very hot water may go far to recover the

print. When the desired result is secured, transfer the print to a

dish of cold water, this instantly tends to slightly harden the film

by cooling it, and after two or three minutes it is passed into a

dish of alum and water, which further hardens it and also "clears"

the print of any bichromate salts which may still remain. In the

alum bath the print should remain until any sign of yellow stain has

disappeared, when after a final rinse of a few minutes in cold water

to remove the alum, the print may be hung up to dry.

It will be seen that there is no prolonged washing as with those

processes in which hypo is employed, and the print is absolutely

permanent.

It must be remembered, however, that in the finished picture we are

looking at the back of the printed film as it received the light

impressions from the negative, and hence the image is reversed, that

is, the left is on the right and the right on the left. For

landscape and views this reversed position will probably be of no

importance, but if it is desired to have things right way round--in

portraits it will be essential--we must either work from reversed

negatives, or we must again transfer the film which will then

constitute a _double_ transfer. We shall now understand why

previously we called the paper to which the film was transferred

_single_ transfer.

Inasmuch as it will be seen that the print is not on paper, but

consists of a transferable film of pigmented gelatine, it will be

understood that the paper employed is merely a support to that film,

hence it is customary to speak of the paper as the support, whilst

moreover it maybe, and as often as not is ivory, glass, textile

fabrics, wood, or other substances.

If now we wish to again transfer the film so as to correct the

lateral reversal, we substitute for the single transfer paper a

"_temporary_ support."

The temporary support which is to receive the film merely whilst it

is being developed, and with the intention of its being subsequently

transferred again to a _final_ support, may be paper or many other

things.

Moreover, remembering that the film is mainly gelatine, it should be

clear that whatever the nature of the surface of the temporary

support, the soft glutinous film will take that surface just as we

may make the impression of a seal in sealing-wax.

The normal carbon print is shiny, due to the gelatine, and so, if as

a temporary support we were to use ground glass or matt "opal," the

carbon print film would receive the fine granulated surface and give

a matted print as a result. This merely by the way as suggesting an

additional advantage offered by the double transfer process as a

set-off against the slight extra trouble.

If double transfer is determined upon, and it is not intended to

experiment with ground glass, etc., then when purchasing the carbon

tissue, some _temporary_ support (sheets of paper coated with

gelatine and shellac) should be procured, also some pieces of

_final_ support.

Whatever the temporary support, it must receive an application of

waxing solution. This also may be bought, or can be made of:--

Yellow resin 36 grains.

Yellow wax 12 "

Ether 2 ounces.

Melt the wax, add the resin, stir together and then add the ether.

Pour a little of this mixture on to the temporary support and spread

with a tuft of cotton wool, and rub over to make it even.

The final support for double transfer may be purchased, and is made

ready for use by soaking for ten minutes in alum.

The temporary support, after being waxed and the waxing solution

having become dry, is to take the place of the single transfer paper

in every respect, and the film developed as already described. When

it has reached the final washing, after the alum clearing bath, it

is brought into contact with the final support (which has been for

ten minutes in alum bath as just described) and is removed to the

glass or zinc plate and squeegeed.

It is now hung up to dry, and when quite dry the blade of a knife

should be inserted at one corner and the temporary support gently

pulled off.

Such is the carbon process, neither difficult nor lengthy, and with

this brief outline to form an introduction, the reader who is a tyro

will the better appreciate the fuller description which follows.

* * * * *

Whilst the article that follows is more comprehensive than the

beginner may require at first, he is nevertheless advised to read it

carefully through, and some points which may not seem clear at first

will explain themselves after a very little experience.

_The Carbon Process._

[Illustration]

Before proceeding to practical details of working, it may be as well

to realize what a piece of carbon tissue is, and what takes place in

the process of exposing such tissue to light. Mr. J. W. Swan, who is

to be regarded as the inventor of carbon process as we now know it,

was justified in giving the name "tissue" to the film of pigmented

bichromatized gelatine, as at first it was a tissue unsupported by

paper backing and containing pigment practically, if not entirely,

carbon. The terms "carbon" and "tissue" have been generally accepted

as describing a pigmented paper containing permanent colour,

therefore little if any misunderstanding is caused by such general

description. The carbon process, like other kindred methods, is

based upon the well-known hardening action of light upon a

bichromate salt in combination with organic matter. When paper is

coated with a mixture of gelatine pigment and a bichromate salt,

dried under favourable conditions and exposed to light under a

negative it naturally follows that a positive image is produced. The

negative acting as a screen, prevents any undue hardening of such

portions of the picture as are intended to form the high-lights,

only slightly interfering with what are to be the middle tints, and

practically permitting full play in the shadows. The latent image is

imprinted on and into the film of tissue compound with the most

delicate portions on the surface, and means must therefore be

adopted to protect the surface during the washing away of all parts

of the film not intended or desired to form any part of the finished

picture.[7] In Swan's process this object was secured by cementing

the surface of the printed tissue to its temporary support with

rubber solution, but after J. R. Johnson discovered that the printed

tissue would adhere without any cement to any surface impervious to

air and water simply by atmospheric pressure, the same end was

gained by soaking the undeveloped print in water until about _half

saturated_, then bringing it into contact _under water_ with either

its temporary or permanent support, slightly squeegeeing or sponging

to remove as much water as possible without injury to the print; as

to _air_, _there ought not to be any present_ if care is taken to

exclude it before lifting from the water bath. The half-soaked

tissue after mounting absorbs every particle of water from between

the surfaces, and thus secures optical contact.

[7] It is generally asserted by non-practical carbon printers

that all portions of the film behind that which finally forms

the print, are unacted upon by light. That is to say,

unchanged and quite as soluble as if not printed at all. The

upholders of such a theory should try the following

experiment:--Take a piece of tissue, cut it through the

centre, expose one piece, then mount both under precisely

similar conditions and wash in the same warm water bath.

Paying special attention to the backing papers, they will

find the one unacted upon by light will have parted with its

load of coloured material in much less time than the piece

that formed the backing of the print.

The squeegee, handy tool as it is, ought to be used with great care,

in no case with any degree of force, or serious injury will result,

particularly to the finer kinds of work, such as double transfer

prints of all kinds, either on paper, ivory or opal. The rubber edge

of the squeegee should be free from notches, often caused by contact

with the sharp edges of glass plates. The notches can be removed by

rubbing on a sheet of glass paper placed on a plane surface.

TISSUE MAKING.

The tissue compound consists of a mixture of the following

ingredients:--Gelatine, sugar, pigment and water. The proportions

are of infinite variety according to season, the nature of the

pigment used, and the purpose for which the tissue is intended. For

convenience it is the rule for tissue makers to prepare what is

termed stock jelly by dissolving, by the aid of a water bath,

gelatine and sugar in water, in varying proportions--roughly

speaking:--

Gelatine 2 parts.

Water 4 to 7 "

Sugar[8] 3/4 to 1-1/4 "

[8] For some purposes (instead of sugar), glycerine, sugar of

milk, or treacle may be substituted.

The pigments are made up into what are termed jelly colours, which

are ground either by hand on a slab of glass, marble or granite,

using a suitable muller for the purpose, or when large quantities

are required a paint mill driven by steam or other power is

employed. In hand grinding the colour is kept moist by syrup on

greatly reduced stock jelly. After grinding by hand the pigment is

lifted from the slab with a palette knife and stirred into melted

stock jelly. When the mill is used, the pigment is mixed with the

jelly before grinding. The proportion of pigment to jelly varies

enormously according to the nature of the pigment, and may be

anything between 2-1/2 per cent. and 25 per cent. Having prepared

stock jelly and jelly colours, and allowed both to set, they are

weighed out in proper proportions, the jelly being dissolved in a

tin vessel placed in a water bath. The colour, generally speaking,

is dissolved in a small proportion of the stock jelly placed in the

mill and again ground into the bulk of the jelly. In some cases the

pigment is dissolved in warm water and filtered through cotton wool,

fine felt or flannel. After adding powdered recrystallized

bichromate, the jelly compound is ready for coating or spreading on

the paper. The coating may be done by hand or machine. Several forms

of machine are in use, including the first form invented by Mr.

Swan. When only a small quantity is required, it is the general

practice to coat by hand.

In hand coating, the tissue compound may be strained through fine

muslin into a flat tin dish placed on a water bath; the surface

cleared of air bubbles by dragging over it a strip of stiff paper.

The sheet of paper to be coated is held in an upright position at

the further end of the dish with its bottom edge just touching the

surface of the solution, gently lowered until the whole surface of

the sheet is in contact with the solution. If the lowering is

properly done there will not be any default in contact, but if

allowed to rest on the solution a few moments, the presence of air

bubbles, if any, will be detected by the presence of little lumps on

the back of the paper, these may be removed by raising a corner

and touching the spots with a finger tip. The sheet is then raised

with a rather slow and steady motion, allowed to drip, then clipped

to a line by its top corners and left to dry in a warm dry room from

which white light has been excluded. When this method of coating is

adopted it is best to have the sheets of paper an inch longer than

the dish; the blank edge prevents contamination of the fingers and

distortion of the sheet caused by contraction in drying. Another

method of hand-coating is to roll the sheet into a tube shape,

placing the roll on the surface of the jelly compound one and a half

inches from the top of the free end, raising with rather slow and

steady motion as before. When the second method is chosen an oblong

and somewhat deep dish will be found better than the flat shape; the

flat dish may be used if tilted to give greater depth of solution in

a corner.

[Illustration: AT THE FOUNTAIN. J. W. WADE.]

In the manufacture of tissues the greatest care must be taken to

avoid over or long-continued heating of the gelatine solution.

Either a too high temperature or a lower temperature, long

continued, destroys the solution by rendering a considerable portion

of it soluble in cold water and to a great degree reducing its

gelatinous character.

The samples of gelatine used in tissue making are of two kinds,

although both of good quality they differ in solubility, in hot

weather a larger proportion of the "hard" sample is used, in cold

weather _vice versa_.

INSENSITIVE TISSUES.

All insensitive tissues are made with a single sample of hard

gelatine. They are stocked by dealers and must of necessity be fit

for use at any season of the year, to say nothing of those exported

to hot climates.

TRANSFER PAPERS.

Papers of many kinds are necessary for single transfer prints, the

tint of the paper must blend and harmonize with the tone of the

tissue or by contrasting help to produce a pleasing effect. For

prints of warm tones such as red chalk, terra cotta and the various

tints of sepia, a yellowish or cream-toned paper forms the most

harmonious basis; the various tints of black, blue, and purple look

best on a slightly bluish-tinted paper. For instance, a copy of an

old engraving in tissue, of the brown tone of the original would be

utterly spoilt by a blue-tinted basis. The above remarks apply only

in a limited degree to double transfer papers which in general use

are confined almost exclusively to portraiture. Such papers are

sometimes modified by tinting mauve, rose, opal, etc., etc. Such

tints are only in small demand and are in all cases confined to

papers coated with enamel preparations. The best and most durable

form of double transfer paper is that prepared on fine chemically

pure paper with colourless gelatine and made insoluble by the

smallest possible quantity of chrome alum, entirely without white or

tinted pigment of any kind. The best variety of double transfer

paper only differs from the finest form of single transfer paper in

having on its surface a rather thicker and softer coating of

colourless gelatine.

All transfer papers, either for single or double transfer, may be

coated in the same way as tissue, with the exception of those having

a very rough surface. All drawing papers and in fact all papers of

very rough surface are prepared by brushing over their surfaces

several coatings of a very thin solution of gelatine containing a

larger proportion of chrome alum or formalin than is used in making

ordinary single transfers. A flat camel-hair brush is best for this

form of coating, care must be taken to avoid air bubbles.

FLEXIBLE TEMPORARY SUPPORT.

Is paper coated with a gelatine solution in the first instance, and

after drying, again coated with an aqueous solution of shellac.

SENSITIZING THE TISSUE.

Pour the bichromate solution into a deep flat dish (porcelain,

ebonite, zinc, wood or tin) to the depth of half an inch to an inch;

place a sheet of tissue in it face upwards, remove air-bubbles with

a camel-hair brush or soft sponge, using as little pressure as may

be; turn the sheet and remove bubbles formed on the paper, turn the

sheet again face upwards, and passing brush or sponge gently over

the surface, keep it evenly wet until it is fairly limp; remove from

the solution, place face downwards on a perfectly clean glass or

zinc plate, squeegee to remove excess of solution, blot or wipe with

a soft cloth, remove any solution from the fingers, lift from the

plate, handle by edges only, clip to a line, small sizes by one

corner only, larger sheets by two corners, leaving a little

slackness between the two clips to allow for contraction in drying,

otherwise the sheet will be distorted and difficult to press into

contact with the negative.

The sensitizing _may_ be done in ordinary daylight. The drying

_must_ take place in a room from which actinic light is excluded,

and in a current of warm dry air, free from impurities, such as the

products of combustion from burning gas, or an escape of sewer gas,

etc., and at a temperature not higher than 120° F. The drying should

be done as quickly as possible, otherwise the tissue's keeping

property will be greatly reduced, and in all probability a thin film

formed on the surface, of insoluble gelatine, known to printers as

"decomposed tint," degrading the high-lights, and, except in the

case of very "hard" negatives, spoiling the work.

It will be evident to anyone that the fancy forms of sensitizing

have been carefully avoided--floating on the back, floating on the

face, etc., etc. All the results desired can be obtained by

immersion. If a hard negative has to be dealt with, a stronger

solution, or longer soaking in the bichromate solution, is all that

is needed; for weak negatives _vice versa_.

_Note._--In the dry frosty air of winter, sensitized tissue will dry

without heat, and continue soluble for a considerable length of

time, often as long as a month, or even longer.

In hot weather it is recommended that the solution of recrystallized

bichromate be made immediately before using, as in dissolving the

crystals a considerable reduction of temperature is produced. Should

the temperature then be over 60° F., ice must be used, not in the

solution, but roughly broken up and mixed with salt in an outer

vessel. If ice is placed in the bichromate bath allowance must be

made by keeping out part of the water. The ice should be encased in

several thicknesses of fine muslin to prevent the solid impurities

it generally contains getting into the solution. When recrystallized

bichromate is not procurable, a few drops of liquid ammonia added to

solution of crude bichromate is recommended. As bichromate is cheap,

a fresh solution should be made for each large batch of tissue.

PRINTING THE NEGATIVE.

Any negative that will yield a thoroughly good albumen print is

suitable for carbon work. The thinner negatives now made for P.O.P.

and similar processes are less satisfactory for direct prints in

carbon, for enlargements and reproductions such negatives can be

made to yield most satisfactory results by modifying the

transparency and the enlarged or reproduced negative. The latitude

in this direction is great. No matter how flat the original negative

may be, _if all the grades are present_ it can be manipulated in

such a way that the most brilliant result will be produced.

PREPARATION OF THE NEGATIVE FOR PRINTING.

The negative is prepared for printing as in all other processes by

removing all defects such as pinholes, streaks, etc. For the carbon

process the negative requires to be further provided with what is

termed a "_safe edge_;" this is a line of black varnish, from

one-eighth to half an inch in width according to the sizes of the

negatives, painted on its margin, either on the film or glass side.

In the case of original negatives masks of opaque paper are used

instead of the painted edge, the masks having openings cut in them

slightly less than the size of the negative. The purpose of the safe

edge is to secure a margin on which light has not acted, as such a

margin gives greater freedom to the operator in the process of

development by preventing the more deeply printed portions of the

picture leaving the support when the backing paper is removed.

DOUBLE TRANSFER PRINTING.

It may be explained in a few words why an ordinary (non-reversed)

negative must be printed by double transfer. In all other solar

processes when the print is removed from or taken off the face of

the negative, it is turned over to view, it therefore follows that

the details on the left side of the negative are found on the right

side of the positive print; with the carbon print no such turning

occurs, it is mounted upon its support in the same position as it

lay on the negative, developed in that position from the back and

leaving the position of objects the same as in the negative. In

some cases this reversal of the position of details is unimportant.

We will first consider the double transfer. In all double transfer

processes a temporary support must be provided. Such supports are of

two kinds, flexible and rigid. When a matt-surface print on paper is

required, finely grained opal glass is used. For the enamelled

surface patent plate, for intermediate or only slightly glazed

surface, a flexible support is used. Flexible support yields a

surface similar to an albumen print without special preparation.

When the higher glaze of the double-albumenized print is desired,

the printed tissue is coated with thin collodion before mounting on

the flexible support. Rigid supports, zinc or ground-glass plates,

have been used, but owing to the difficulty of seeing the details

during development their use is practically discontinued. Flexible

temporary support is always used in transferring to canvas, wood

panel, opal, ivory, etc., etc. In the case of canvas, the double

transfer process has two great advantages. First, staining is

avoided, the bichromate has been thoroughly got rid of in the

process of development. Secondly, the canvas is prepared to receive

the print by a substratum that allows the carbon image to expand and

contract with the expansion or contraction of the canvas and not in

opposition to it. There are also two advantages in adopting the

double transfer process for the production of pictures on ivory. The

first, is freedom from bichromate stains. Secondly, the ivory is not

distorted by washing in hot water, such distortion generally takes

place when the single transfer process is adopted. Wood panels are

prepared in a similar way to canvas. Stains are avoided, and as

there is not the expansion and contraction of canvas to provide

against, the substratum is modified in composition and greatly

reduced. The stains above alluded to are caused by the chemical

combination of bichromate with the lead of the paint, forming

chromate of lead or chrome yellow. In the case of opal, opaque

celluloid, and similar substances, no staining takes place, the

double transfer is only required to restore the image to its proper

position.

SINGLE TRANSFER.

The Barnet Book of Photography: A Collection of Practical Articles · 第 16 / 18 段