_Focal length._--The focal length or focal distance of a thin lens

is the distance between it and the point to which it converges

parallel rays. The rays of light are parallel when they issue from

an object at an infinite distance. For ordinary practical purposes,

any object, that is not nearer than a thousand focal lengths of the

lens may be regarded as at an infinite distance, that is the image

of an object so far off, and the image of the sun or stars (which

are situated at the nearest approach to an infinitely great distance

that we know of) would if separately focussed give an inappreciably

small difference of position of the focussing screen. But no

photographic lens is very thin. The measurement from the back

surface of the lens to the screen, when focussed on a distant

object, is called the "back focus," but this is of no use whatever

except as to the determining of the camera length necessary. The

"equivalent focal length" is the focal length (or focal distance) of

a thin lens that would give the same effect, so far as focal length

is concerned, as the lens in question. When the simple expression

"focal length" is used, it always refers to the equivalent focal

length. The single word "focus" is sometimes used erroneously

instead of "focal length."

The focal length of all lenses (except to a very small extent, with

single or so-called "landscape" lenses) is proportional to the

linear dimension of the image that it gives under similar

conditions. For example, a lens of 6 inches focal length will give

just the same amount of subject on a quarter plate that a lens of 12

inches focal length will give on a whole plate, because the linear

measurement of the whole plate is exactly double that of the quarter

plate. The easiest way to compare the focal lengths of two lenses,

is to focus both on a fairly distant object or view, and to measure

in the image the distance between two fixed points in both cases.

The proportion between these measurements is the proportion between

the focal lengths of the lenses. By this method the focal length of

any lens can easily be determined if one has a lens of known focal

length.

If a lens is first focussed on a distant object, and the focussing

screen is then moved back until the image of any object is of the

same size as the object, the distance travelled by the focussing

screen is exactly the focal length of the lens. It is however

exceedingly difficult to get at the same time an image of an exactly

predetermined size, and to secure the very best definition, so that

it is more convenient to get the image as near as it happens to come

to the size of the object and then to allow for the difference, as

then nothing interferes with the operation of focussing. The best

near object to use is an accurately divided scale, and the details

wanted in addition to those mentioned above are the comparative

lengths of the image and the object. To get these, two fine marks

are made on the focussing screen, and the distance between these is

the length of the image. The scale is focussed with critical

exactness and so that it falls over these marks, then the amount of

the scale represented between the marks can be measured, and the

divisions counted for the length of the object. The distance over

which the focussing screen was moved between the two focussings is

to be multiplied by the length of the object and divided by the

length of the image, and the result is the focal length of the lens.

_Aperture._--The "aperture" of a lens is the diameter of the

cylinder of light that it can receive and transmit. If the diaphragm

is in front of the lens, the hole in the diaphragm is the aperture,

but if the diaphragm is behind a part of the lens, so that the

incident light passes through a lens first, the hole in the

diaphragm is not the "aperture," the "aperture" is larger because

the lens condenses the light before it gets to the diaphragm. The

aperture of any lens can be measured by focussing a distant object,

then replacing the focussing screen by a sheet of cardboard with a

pinhole in the middle of it. In a dark-room a light must be placed

behind the pinhole, and a bit of ground glass held in front of the

lens. A disc of light will be seen on the ground glass and the

diameter of this is the diameter of the aperture, or simply, the

"aperture," with the diaphragm employed.

_Rapidity._--The rapidity of a lens depends almost wholly on its

focal length and aperture. The thickness of the glass makes a little

difference, and at every surface in contact with air there is loss

by reflection, but these and analogous matters are of comparatively

little importance, and as they are uncertain and cannot be

determined it is customary to refer rapidity to the focal length and

aperture only. The aperture found, that is, the diameter of the

effective incident cylinder of parallel rays, should be divided into

the focal length, and the diaphragm corresponding to the aperture

should then be marked with a fractional expression indicating the

proportion of aperture to focal length. Thus if the aperture is one

eighth the focal length, it is marked _f_/8, if a sixteenth _f_/16,

and so on. All lenses with the same aperture as so marked may be

regarded as of equal rapidity whatever their focal lengths may be.

Now the more rapid a lens is the shorter the exposure that it is

necessary to give for any subject, and the exposure required is

proportional to the square of the figure in the expressions as given

above. Namely 8 and 16 squared give 64 and 256 which are as one to

four, the proportional exposures required. Or we may say that 8 to

16 are as 1 to 2 and square these and get 1 to 4 the proportional

exposures.

[Illustration: Fig. 6.]

The best way to mark stops is, for example, _f_/8 and _f_/16, as

these expressions are universally understood, but some persons think

that the relative rapidities or intensities are better, others

prefer to express the relative exposure necessary, and every system

of numbering on these plans has a unit which is merely empirical,

not one of them adopting the only true or scientific unit of _f_/1.

Zeiss has recently changed his unit from _f_/100 to _f_/50.

Dallmeyer marks some of his lenses now with the practical

expression. The following table may be of service to those who

happen to have lenses with their diaphragms marked on any of these

empirical systems.

-------------------------------------------------------------------

| Royal | | | | |

| Photographic | | Paris | Zeiss | Zeiss |

_f_/ | Society. | Dallmeyer. | Congress.| (old). | (new). |

-------------------------------------------------------------------

3.16 | | 1 | 1/10 | | |

3.2 | | | | 1024 | 256 |

4 | 1 | | | | |

5 | | 2.5 | 1/4 | | |

4.5 | | | | 512 | 128 |

5.66 | 2 | | | | |

6.3 | | 4 | 4/10 | 256 | 64 |

7.07 | | 5 | 1/2 | | |

8 | 4 | | | | |

8.66 | | 7.5 | 3/4 | | |

9 | | | | 128 | 32 |

10 | | 10 | 1 | | |

11.3 | 8 | | | | |

12.25 | | 15 | 1.5 | | |

12.5 | | | | 64 | 16 |

14.14 | | 20 | 2 | | |

15.81 | | 25 | 2.5 | | |

16 | 16 | | | | |

17.32 | | 30 | 3 | | |

18 | | | | 32 | 8 |

20 | | 40 | 4 | | |

22.36 | | 50 | 5 | | |

22.6 | 32 | | | | |

25 | | | | 16 | 4 |

27.36 | | 75 | 7.5 | | |

31.62 | | 100 | 10 | | |

32 | 64 | | | | |

36 | | | | 8 | 2 |

38.7 | | 150 | 15 | | |

44.72 | | 200 | 20 | | |

45.2 | 128 | | | | |

50 | | 250 | 25 | 4 | 1 |

54.77 | | 300 | 30 | | |

63.25 | | 400 | 40 | | |

64 | 256 | | | | |

70.71 | | 500 | 50 | | |

71 | | | | 2 | |

100 | | | | 1 | |

-------------------------------------------------------------------

_Image Angle._--The image angle represents what is called covering

power. It may be expressed in terms of the focal length, and

doubtless this is the best method, but it is not customary. It may

be expressed as an angle, the angle formed when a line is drawn from

each extremity of a line equal to the diameter of the circle

covered, and caused to meet at a point distant from the base line

equal to the focal length of the lens. The angle where the two lines

meet is the image angle. But generally the covering power is

expressed more roughly, as the ordinary size of the plate that

sufficiently good definition can be obtained on.

_Tele-Photographic Lenses._--If a negative (or dispersing or

concave) lens is introduced between the ordinary lens and the plate,

the equivalent focal length of the arrangement is greater than that

of the ordinary lens alone, but the length of camera necessary is

not proportionately great. It is possible therefore to obtain an

image of a size that would otherwise require a lens of long focal

length and a corresponding and perhaps impossible length of camera.

But this is not the only advantage, for if the ordinary lens and the

negative lens are separable to a variable extent, the amount of

magnification of the image, or increase in the equivalent focal

length of the optical system, is adjustable at will. For further

details concerning tele-photographic lenses and their use, reference

should be made to Mr. Dallmeyer's pamphlet on the subject.

There are two other subjects connected with the production of images

by photographic lenses that must be referred to, though neither of

them is of great importance if we exclude the use of hand cameras

(which are separately treated of) and bear in mind the ordinary

practice of to-day. These are depth of definition and the distortion

due to the use of single lenses.

_Depth of Definition._--It has already been shown that the action of

the lens is to bring to a point in the image all the light that

falls upon it from the corresponding point of the object. Now it is

clear from fig. 2 that, if different parts of the object are at

different distances from the lens, and this must be the case with

solid objects, these different parts cannot be in focus at the same

time. Still it is possible to get them so nearly in focus that the

result is serviceable, and the ordinary method of doing this is to

examine the image on the ground glass, and if the whole subject is

not sharp enough, to reduce the size of the aperture. Depth of

definition is increased by using a lens of shorter focal length or

by reducing the aperture. If a large aperture has to be used, the

focal length must be short if much depth of definition is wanted, or

conversely, if the focal length must be long the aperture must be

small. It follows that very rapid lenses that have a very long

focus are of no use, for in portraiture, for example, this

combination of properties would lead to the ear in the image being

fuzzy if the eye was sharp.

If a lens were perfect and had a flat field, the depth of definition

would depend only on the aperture and focal length. But if the lens

gives inferior definition towards the edges of the field, it is

quite obvious that there must be less depth of definition there, if

a minimum of defining power is accepted. The definition at its best

may be inferior to the minimum accepted and then obviously there is

no depth. Depth of definition therefore at the centre of the plate

depends entirely on the focal length and aperture, but away from the

centre it depends also on the quality of the lens, and is much

greater in a flat field anastigmat than in a lens of an older type.

But depth of definition is not a quality apart, it depends entirely

upon other factors, and it is better in examining a lens to

determine these factors separately rather than to lump them together

as depth.

_Distortion_ produced by single lenses is due to the fact that the

diaphragm is either in front of or behind them. If the diaphragm is

in front, the image is drawn towards the centre of the plate to an

extent that increases as the margin of the field is approached. A

line along one side of the plate has its ends drawn in to a greater

amount than its centre, because they are further from the middle of

the plate, and therefore it becomes curved like the side of a

barrel, and this effect is called barrel-shaped distortion. If the

diaphragm is behind the lens, the displacement is outwards, also

increasing towards the edges of the field, and a straight line at

the edge of the plate becomes curved so that it is convex towards

the centre of the plate. This is known as hour-glass distortion.

Both these effects are illustrated (and exaggerated for clearness'

sake) in fig. 6, the central square representing the true figure.

This "curvilinear distortion" is absent in all cases in the middle

of the plate and generally for a considerable area, and if single

lenses of only long focal length are used, say of a focal length

equal to at least one and a half times the length of the largest

side of the plate, it may be neglected. Wide-angle single lenses

should never be used except on a suitably small plate, so that the

above conditions hold. The nearer the diaphragm is to the lens the

less is the distortion, and some of the most modern single lenses

have the diaphragm so near that the photographer is even more safe

in the use of them.

[Illustration: MELTON MEADOWS. A. HORSLEY HINTON.]

_The Comparison and Use of Lenses._--The optician when he tests

lenses looks for each fault individually, but this the ordinary

photographer is hardly able to do, nor is it particularly desirable

for him, because if a lens is inferior it matters little to him why

it is so. On the other hand occasion may arise when he wants to

identify a fault, then the information already given will probably

be sufficient to enable him to do so, if to it is added that a small

pinhole with a flame behind it is a convenient point of light, and

that if the image of this luminous point is examined with a good

eyepiece, without the focussing screen, at various parts of the

field, the character of the defect may be discovered.

The main things that the photographer needs to look to in judging of

a lens or comparing it with another, are (1) that it works to focus,

(2) the quality of its defining power especially towards the edges

of the plate. There must also be taken into account the focal length

and aperture, and if both these are not the same in the lenses to be

compared they should be nearly the same, and the proportion that the

aperture bears to the focal length should be exactly the same. A

special diaphragm may have to be cut out of card for one of them.

The best test object that is always at hand is a newspaper pinned

flat against a flat wall. The camera must not be moved during the

work. Each lens is very carefully focussed and a negative made,

using the same aperture, time of development, and in all ways

similar treatment for both. If the focal lengths are different, the

images will be of correspondingly different sizes, and then the same

detail must be compared, not the definition at the same distance

from the centre.

All good lenses work to focus, but some of the cheaper ones do not.

To test this, any series of small objects arranged side by side, but

at distances varying by intervals of say two inches from the camera,

is photographed after carefully focussing on the middle one. If any

other than the middle one is the best defined, the lens is at fault.

But in this, as in all similar tests, it must be remembered that

ordinary dry plates are not quite flat, and the error of the plate

may make an appreciable difference.

The use of lenses comprises the whole art of working with the

camera, it is therefore not our province to say much about it. But

so far as lenses themselves are concerned it may be remarked that,

if a lens has a round field, it may be advantageous to tip up the

lens with regard to the plate when only a part of the plate is being

used, as for example sometimes in taking a landscape. But in using

the modern flat field lenses special care should be taken to keep

the lens and plate exactly true to each other, the plate exactly at

right angles to the lens axis. The image and plate must coincide or

definition will suffer. If the image is rounded and the plate flat,

then in any case the result is only a compromise, but to take full

advantage of the larger apertures when the field is flat, much more

care than has been usual must be devoted to this matter.

_Simple uncorrected lenses_ such as _spectacle lenses_ or

"_monocles_," suffer from the defects that have already been

described, and are valued on this account by some workers because

they give blurred or "soft" images. With a small enough diaphragm

they will give good definition, and generally it may be stated that

reducing the aperture lessens the effect of any fault that a lens

may possess. To get the best definition that a simple lens will

give, the plate must be brought nearer the lens after focussing by

about one-fiftieth of the focal length of the lens, so that it may

be brought from the best focus of visual light into the best focus

of the photographically active light. If the object photographed is

nearer to the lens than about one hundred times its focal length,

the amount of movement after focussing must be increased. If four

focal lengths distant, the correction is nearly one-thirtieth of the

focal length, at three focal lengths distant, nearly one-twentieth,

and at two focal lengths, about a thirteenth.

_Pinholes_ give an image that for all practical purposes may be said

to be equally blurred or "soft" over the whole plate. Much has been

written about pinholes and their use, but it is not definitely known

yet whether the exposure should be longer or shorter than the

exposure required when a lens is used, allowing, of course, for the

smallness of the aperture. The following short table and exposure

rules from the writer's "Science and Practice of Photography," will

probably prove useful:--

+----------------------------+------+------+------+------+------+

| Pinholes--diameters | 1/16 | 1/22 | 1/32 | 1/45 | 1/64 |

+----------------------------+------+------+------+------+------+

| Distance from plate for | | | | | |

| sharpest image ... | 64 | 32 | 16 | 8 | 4 |

+----------------------------+------+------+------+------+------+

All the above figures are in inches. Whatever pinhole and at

whatever distance, estimate the exposure for a lens at _f_/16,

_f_/22, _f_/32, _f_/45, or _f_/64, as the case may be, and multiply

it by the _square_ of the number of inches that the plate is distant

from the pinhole. But if the distance is as given above for any

hole, it is sufficient to expose for as many minutes as the plate is

inches distant from the hole, for a subject that would require one

second with an aperture of _f_/16.

_Chapman Jones._

_Portraiture._

[Illustration]

The photographer who may be expert at landscape or architectural

work, will find himself at a loss when he essays portraiture. For

apart from the art of managing the sitter (a most important element

in producing a successful result), he will soon find that the kind

of plate that is suitable for outdoor work does not answer well for

portraits, unless the developer is greatly modified, for quite a

different kind of negative is required. As a general rule it is

advisable to use very rapid plates for portrait work; and in this

respect, at the present day we are much better supplied than even

five or six years ago, and with an extra-rapid plate it is possible

to secure a fully exposed negative in half a second, in weather and

under lighting that was quite impossible ten years ago. The best

expression and pose are generally secured when the sitter is unaware

of the actual moment of exposure; and for this purpose a silent

shutter working inside the camera is best. The sitter should never

be _asked_ to keep still unless, in groups, and when circumstances

necessitate a long exposure; and nowadays an exposure of five or six

seconds is a long one. Every effort should be made to put the sitter

quite at ease.

A head-rest should not be used unless absolutely necessary, and few

photographers are aware how easily it can be dispensed with, and

fail to realize how strong an objection nearly every sitter has to

it. It is far better to have an occasional plate spoilt by working

without the rest than to make every sitter uncomfortable by its use.

In fact some portrait negatives are actually improved by a slight

movement. In a special kind of lighting when the face is in _shadow_

relieved against a light background, a slight movement which

produces the effect of diffusion of focus greatly improves the

result.

Great care must be exercised in choosing the background even when it

is only plain or graduated, and it is well worth exposing three or

four plates on the same sitter, in the same position and lighting,

and with the same exposure, but with different backgrounds, and then

carefully comparing the resulting prints. Even if only one

background is at hand its depth can be varied by placing it nearer

or farther from the source of light. The background must also be

selected to suit the lighting of the sitter, as a background of

medium tint suitable for what is called "ordinary lighting" would be

quite unsuitable for "Rembrandt" effects, or where strong contrasts

of light and shade are used, when part of the face is in dark

shadow. For such effects a dark background is usually best, as it

gives luminosity to the shadow side of the face. But such dark

grounds are not suitable for "ordinary lighting" where the face

should be full of delicate half-tone, all of which would be killed

by the strength of the dark background.

For the Rembrandt effects a much longer exposure is necessary as

less light is reflected from the face on to the sensitive plate;

they will often need twice or three times as much as for ordinary

portraits.

When pictorial backgrounds or accessories are used it must be

remembered that the object of the photograph is to secure a portrait

of the _sitter_, not to show what a large stock of accessories the

photographer possesses. It is best to use as few accessories as

possible; I have heard a lady complain bitterly of a well-known

photographer, who having posed her in a very difficult position,

kept her waiting for five minutes while he arranged a screen, a

palm, a footstool, a tiger-skin, etc., so that she felt positively

ill before the exposure was made. The sitter should not be kept

waiting in the pose to be photographed any longer than is absolutely

necessary. If accessories must be used they should be simple and

suitable.

When portraits have to be taken in ordinary rooms it is advisable to

get a friend or assistant to experiment upon, if possible

beforehand. Even a few minutes spent in studying the possibilities

of light and arrangement of furniture will save a great deal of

worry when making the actual exposures, and nothing upsets nervous

sitters more than having all kinds of experiments and arrangements

made with them. But it is sometimes well worth wasting a few plates

on exposures which the photographer thinks will be useless, in order

to give the sitter time to get accustomed to the room; it must not

be done in a fussy, irritating way, but rather to show that it is

not such a very dreadful operation and really "doesn't hurt." This

plan often works well with nervous children, who soon become

accustomed to the room and the photographer. There is a great deal

to be said in favour of the maxim "leave your sitters alone." The

photographer must cultivate quick observation so that he sees at

once a good pose, and secures it; and here again quick plates are

essential, as many of the most charming poses are caught

unexpectedly. It has been well said that the best poses the

photographer secures are those he _observes_, not those he

_creates_. But a spontaneous pose may not be quite perfect and a

slight alteration may be easily made without disturbing the rest of

the figure. It will generally be found that a pose that takes a

great deal of arranging is not a success.

When taking portraits in an ordinary room it is usual to place the

sitter near the window, so that one side of the face is strongly

lighted and the other in deep shadow, and then use a white reflector

to light up the shadow side. It is often better, when the window is

a large one, to place the sitter farther back in the room almost

facing the window, and put the camera near the middle of the window

looking into the room; a softer lighting will then be secured. For

outdoor portraits a shady corner is best, and if possible, one where

the side light is much subdued on one side; a light head-shade may

be used with advantage. A large grey rug out of focus makes a good

background; a blanket is too light.

The Barnet Book of Photography: A Collection of Practical Articles · 第 4 / 18 段