CHAPTER III.

ANJOU.

CONTENTS.

Cathedral at Angers—Church at Fontevrault—Poitiers—Angiovine spires.

THE architectural province of Anjou cannot perhaps be so distinctly

defined as the two already described. On the north, indeed, it is

separated by the clearest line both from Normandy and from the Frankish

province. But in the south, as before remarked, it is not easy to say,

in the present state of our information, what works belong to Aquitaine

and what to Anjou. Not that there is any want of sufficient marks to

distinguish between the _styles_ themselves, but a large portion of

_examples_ appear to belong to a sort of debateable ground between the

two. This, however, is true only of the buildings on the borders of the

province. The two capitals of Angers and Poitiers are full of examples

peculiar to them alone, and as a rule the same remark applies to all the

principal churches of the province.

The age of the greatest splendour of this province is from the accession

of Foulques Nerra in the year 989 to the death of Henry II. of England,

1190. During these two centuries its prosperity and independent power

rose to a height which it subsequently neither maintained nor ever

regained. Prior to this period the buildings found scattered here and

there are few and insignificant, but during its continuance every town

was enriched by some noble effort of the piety and architectural taste

peculiar to the age. After its conclusion the completion of works

previously commenced was all that was attempted. The rising power of the

northern provinces, and of the English, seems to have given a check to

the prosperity of Anjou, which it never thoroughly recovered; for when

it did to a certain extent again become prosperous and wealthy, it was

under the influence and dominion of the great central Frankish power

which ultimately absorbed into itself all the separate nationalities of

France, and obliterated those provincial distinctions which are so

strikingly prominent in the earlier part of her history.

The plan of St. Maurice (Woodcut No. 583), the cathedral of Angers, may

be considered as a typical example of the Angiovine style, and will

serve to explain in what it differs from the northern and in what it

resembles the southern styles. On comparing it with the plan of

Souillac, and more especially with that of the cathedral at Angoulême,

it will be seen how nearly it resembles them—the great difference being

that, instead of cupolas over each square compartment, it has the

intersecting vault of the northern styles. Its buttresses too are

external, but less in projection than might be generally considered

necessary to support a vault 52 ft. in span. They moreover show a

tendency towards a northern style of construction; but the absence of

free-standing pillars or of aisles, and the general arrangement of the

whole building, are rather southern peculiarities. Externally the façade

has been successively piled up at various times from the 12th century,

when the body of the church was commenced and nearly finished, to the

16th, when it was completed in the style of the Renaissance.

[Illustration: 583. Cathedral at Angers. (From Faultrier, ‘Anjou et ses

Monuments.’) Scale 100 ft. to 1 in.]

[Illustration: 584. St. Trinité, Angers. (From Faultrier.) Scale 100 ft.

to 1 in.]

Another church in the same city, of equal interest, though not so large

or important, is that of the Trinité. It consists of one nave without

transepts, 52 ft. wide measuring into the recesses, though it is only 32

ft. wide between the piers. It is roofed with an intersecting vault in

eight compartments, of somewhat northern pattern, but with a strong

tendency towards the domical forms of the Southern style. It possesses,

moreover, a peculiarity rather frequently attempted, viz., that of

trying to attain a greater appearance of length by lowering the vaults

from the entrance towards the altar. Thus, at the entrance the building

is 80 ft. in height, but it gradually sinks to 65 at the eastern end.

This contrivance is a mere trick, and, like all such in architecture, is

a failure.

The details of this church are rich and good throughout, and altogether

the effect of the 7 recesses on each side is pleasing and satisfactory.

Indeed it may be considered as the typical and best example of that

class of churches, of which a later specimen was the cathedral at Alby,

described in the last chapter, and which are so beautiful as to go far

to shake our absolute faith in the dogma that aisles are indispensably

necessary to the proper effect of a Gothic church.

[Illustration: 585. View of the Interior of Loches. (From a Sketch by

the Author.)]

[Illustration: 586. Plan of Church at Fontevrault. (From Verneilh.)

Scale 100 ft. to 1 in.]

Even more interesting than either of these, in an archæological point of

view, is the little castle chapel at Loches, commenced by Geoffrey Grise

Gonelle, Count of Anjou, in the year 962, and continued by his son,

Foulques Nerra, to whom the nave must be ascribed; while the western

tower is probably the only part now remaining of the older church. The

eastern portion was rebuilt in the 12th century by Thomas Pactius, the

prior, and completed in 1180—the latter part being in the well-known

Norman style of that age. An interesting point in this church is that

the Norman round-arch style is built over and upon the pointed arches of

the nave, which are at least a century older, having been erected

between the years 987 and 1040. It will be seen from the view given of

this chapel that the pointed style here used has nothing in common with

the pointed architecture of the North of France, but is that of the

South, such as we have seen in the churches of Périgueux and Souillac.

It is used here, as there, to support domes. These, however, in this

instance, instead of being circular, are octagonal, and rise externally

in octagonal straight-lined cones of stone-work, giving a very peculiar

but interesting and elegant outline to the building. They also point out

a method by which roofs at least as high as those which afterwards

prevailed could have been obtained in stone if this mode of vaulting had

been persevered in. The church of St. Sergius at Angers has pointed

arches, certainly of an earlier date, but whether so old as this is not

quite certain.

[Illustration: 587. View of Chevet at Fontevrault. (From Faultrier.)]

It has already been suggested that all circular churches were originally

sepulchral, or intended to be so. There can also be little doubt but

that the halves of round churches, which, as explained above, were

adopted as the chevet termination of French basilicas, were also

intended either to symbolise a tomb-house or relic shrine, or actually

to serve as the sepulchres of distinguished personages. This certainly

appears to have been the case in the earlier French examples, and among

these one of the most splendid in this province, indeed, almost the only

one of any real importance, is that of Fontevrault, where repose, or

rather reposed, the remains of two of our Plantagenet kings, Henry II.

and Richard I., with others of their family. As will be seen from the

woodcut (No. 587), it is a mausoleum worthy of them, and a pleasing

example of the style of the age, and though certainly not so peculiarly

Angiovine as the apsidal churches of Angers and Poitiers, has still

distinguishing characteristics which are not found in any other province

of France. The nave is surmounted by four domes, as is usual in this and

the more southern provinces, and it is only in having an aisle trending

round the apse that it differs from the ordinary churches. It may be

seen from the plan (Woodcut No. 586) how awkwardly this is done, and how

ill its narrow dimensions agree with the spaciousness of the nave.

[Illustration: 588. Elevation of one of the Bays of the Nave at

Fontevrault. (From Verneilh.)]

Woodcut No. 588 demonstrates how similar the domes of its nave are to

those of Angoulême, Souillac, and those of the South—this domical

arrangement being, in fact, as characteristic of this age and locality

as the intersecting vault afterwards became of the Northern provinces.

[Illustration: 589. Façade of Church of Notre Dame at Poitiers. (From

Chapuy, ‘Moyen-Âge Monumental.’)]

If the apse or chevet of this church is not so strictly Angiovine as

other examples, the façade of the church of Notre Dame de Poitiers

(shown in Woodcut No. 589) is not open to the same remark, being

strictly local in all its parts. Originally the one window it possessed

was circular; but in the 15th century, as may be seen from the mouldings

then introduced, it was cut down to its present form, no doubt to make

more room for painted glass, which at that age had superseded all other

modes of decoration: whereas in the 12th century, to which the church

belongs, external sculpture and internal mural paintings were the

prevailing modes of architectural expression. It will be observed from

the preceding woodcut that sculpture is used in a profusion of which no

example belonging to a later age exists; and though we cannot help

admiring the larger proportions and broader masses of subsequent

builders, still there is a richness and a graphic power in the exuberant

sculpture of the earlier façades which we miss in after ages, and of

which no mere masonic excellence can ever supply the place.

This, though not the largest, is probably the best and richest church of

its class in this province. The border churches of Parthenay, Civray,

and Ruffec, all show traces of the same style and forms all more or less

richly carried out; but none have the characteristic corner towers, nor

do they retain their pedimented gable so perfect as Notre Dame at

Poitiers.

Besides this one there are four churches in Poitiers, all which were

certainly erected in the 11th century, and the greater part of them

still retain unaltered the features of that age. The oldest, St. Hilaire

(A.D. 1049), is remarkable for an irregularity of plan sufficient to

puzzle all the antiquaries of the land, and which is only to be

accounted for on the supposition of its having been built on the

foundation of some earlier church, which it has replaced.

Montierneuf (1066) possesses in its nave a circular-headed tunnel-vault,

ornamented with transverse ribs only, but resting on arches which cut

slightly into it. It has no string-course or plain wall, as is usual in

the South, and in this shows a tendency towards intersecting vaulting,

indicative of an approach to the Northern style.

[Illustration: 590. Plan of Cathedral at Poitiers. (From Coulier’s

‘Histoire de la Cathédrale de Poitiers.’) Scale 100 ft. to 1 in.]

The most remarkable parts of St. Porchaire and St. Radegonde are their

western towers, which are fine specimens of their class, especially that

of the latter, which changes pleasingly into an octagon before

terminating in a short spire. Altogether this church shows that elegance

of feeling the want of which is a chief defect of the contemporary

Norman style.

The cathedral of Poitiers was founded in the year 1161. Its eastern end

belongs to a transitional period, while its western front was not

completed till the pointed Gothic style had reached its utmost

perfection, 200 years later. Its plan, however, probably belongs to the

earlier period, and presents so strong a contrast to the Northern

churches of the same date that it may be quoted here as belonging to the

style which we are describing. The east end is square externally, but

internally it contains 3 shallow niches like those on each side of St.

Trinité at Angers. Its transepts are mere chapels; but its most

remarkable feature is the convergence of its sides towards the east; and

as its vault sinks also towards that end, a false perspective is

attained which certainly at first sight gives the church an appearance

of greater length than it really possesses. The 3 aisles, too, being of

the same height, add to the effect of space; so that, taken as a whole,

this church may be quoted as the best example known of the system of

attaining a certain effect by these means, and is well worthy of study

on this account. It, however, I think, admits of no doubt that the

Northern architects were right in rejecting all these devices, and in

basing their efforts on better understood and more honest principles.

[Illustration: 591. Spire at Cunault. (From Faultrier.)]

It is in this province that, proceeding from the South, spires are first

found in common use. The characteristic of the South is the square

flat-roofed tower or octagonal dome. In Anjou, towers standing by

themselves, and crowned by well-proportioned spires, seem early to have

been introduced, and to have been considered almost essential parts of

church architecture. The representation (Woodcut No. 591) of that

attached to the interesting church of Cunault, on the Loire, is of the

most common type. There is another at Chemillé, almost exactly like it,

and a third on the road between Tours and Loches, besides many others

which but slightly differ from these in detail. They all want the

aspiring lightness afterwards attained in Gothic spires; but their

design and ornaments are good, and their outlines well suited to the

massive edifices to which they are attached.

Most of the conventual buildings attached to the churches in this

province have disappeared, either during the struggle with the

Huguenots, or in the later and more disastrous troubles of the

Revolution, so that there is scarcely a cloister or other similar

edifice to be found in the province. One or two fragments, however,

still exist, such as the Tour d’Évrault.[342] This is a conventual

kitchen, not unlike that at Glastonbury, but of an earlier age, and so

far different from anything else of the kind that it was long mistaken

for a building of a very different class.

Another fragment, though probably not ecclesiastical, is the screen of

arches recently discovered in the hôtel of the Prefecture at Angers. As

a specimen of elaborate exuberance in barbarous ornament it is

unrivalled even in France, but it is much more like the work of the

Normans than anything else found in the neighbourhood. Owing to its

having been so long built up, it still retains traces of the colouring

with which all the internal sculptures of this age were adorned.

The deficiency in ecclesiastical buildings in this province is made up

in a great measure by the extent and preservation of its Feudal remains,

few of the provinces of France having so many and such extensive

fortified castles remaining. Those of Angers and Loches are two of the

finest in France, and there are many others scarcely less magnificent.

Few of them, however, have features strictly architectural; and though

the artist and the poet may luxuriate on their crumbling time-stained

towers and picturesque decay, they hardly belong to such a work as this,

nor afford materials which would advance our knowledge of architecture

as a fine art.

A History of Architecture in all Countries, Volumes 1 and 2, 3rd ed. From the Earliest Times to the Present Day · 第 3 / 18 章