THE SCILLY ISLANDS--FLOWER-FARMING--THE INHABITED ISLANDS--ST.
MARY'S--STAR CASTLE--SAMSON AND "ARMOREL OF LYONESSE"--SIR CLOUDESLEY
SHOVEL--TRESCO--THE SEA-BIRDS.
The Isles of Scilly lie twenty-seven miles off the mainland and forty
miles from Penzance, the nearest harbour from which you can voyage to
that fortunate archipelago. It is possible in these days to reach St.
Mary's, the capital of Scilly, in a little over sixteen hours from
London, doing it luxuriously, as far as the railway portion of the
journey is concerned, by taking the 9.50 p.m. train from Paddington,
which arrives at Penzance terminus at 7.30 the next morning, leaving
two and a half hours' rest before the steamer _Lyonesse_ leaves for the
islands, a voyage of about four hours. But this is suspiciously like
toiling to get your pleasure, for night travel, however well-appointed,
is tiring, and then you miss the scenery on the way. Upon this
writer at least, the delights of the country, as seen framed in the
carriage-windows of the flying express, never pall, and he who forgoes
the daylight journey by the Great Western Railway misses much. The
best method of reaching Scilly is therefore by taking the 10.30 a.m.
restaurant car train _ex_ Paddington, which delivers you upon Penzance
platform at 5.5 p.m.; a railway journey of 305-1/4 miles, performed at
the rate of nearly fifty miles an hour throughout.
The _Lyonesse_ leaves Penzance at 10 a.m. Over that voyage of forty
miserable miles--miserable or magnificent according to whether you are
what is called a "good sailor" or not--I would like to draw a veil.
Once the steamer has passed the Rundlestone and left the lee of the
land (with some even before) the woes of the "bad sailor" begin. Do I
not know it, all too well? Alas! yes. But the potent charm of Scilly
may well be deduced from the fact of such a voyager revisiting the
islands, knowing full well that even a "good passage," which phrase in
these rolling leagues seems like the ill-timed saturnine humour of a
misanthrope--will prostrate him in the scuppers, or fling him athwart
the bulwarks, yearning for peace and rest in the creaming billows that
go dizzily seething past. Here let me not fail to add, for the comfort
of those who would dare the deed, that "once pays for all," as the
old proverb says. Your miseries, generally speaking, are confined to
the outward voyage, and, although you may be thoughtful and perhaps
apprehensive of the like disturbance in returning, Neptune generally
refrains from exacting other tribute. You have paid your footing, if
staggering along the heaving deck (ugh!) may so be called; and having
paid your fare in money and in kind, are free of the ocean blue.
The Scillies rise slowly out of the waters as you approach. There
is St. Mary's Island ahead, with St. Martin's on the extreme right,
rising behind the numerous rocky islets known as the Eastern Islands,
comprising Menewethan, Great and Little Inishvouls, Great and Little
Arthur, Ragged Island, Hanjague, Nornor, Great and Little Ganilly, and
Great and Little Ganinick. There are two means of approach to the pier
at St. Mary's, to which the steamer comes: if it be high tide, by Crow
Sound; if at ebb by the circuitous route of St. Mary's Sound. It is the
last despairing misery of the sea-sick, who know nothing of the local
conditions of navigation, to notice that the captain, apparently out
of sheer wanton cruelty, is making a prolonged circuit of the island
before coming to an anchor.
But these miseries are speedily forgotten when once you have set foot
upon the quay at Hugh Town, St. Mary's; for you realise at once that
you have come to a new and strange, and interesting, land.
The Isles of Scilly are the land of the narcissus and the daffodil,
but not of those alone. Arum lilies, stocks, wallflowers, and crimson
anemones are grown abundantly. There are in all 3,600 acres in the
islands, and of these 2,000 are cultivated, chiefly nowadays in the
flower-farming interest. It was in 1878, or thereabouts, that the first
ideas of flower-farming took root in Scilly. There had always been,
time beyond the memory of man, more or less wild narcissi growing on
the isles. It was thought, without any evidence being available, that
the old Benedictine monks of Tresco had introduced them. There were
eight varieties known to botanists. Some time subsequently to 1834,
Mr. Augustus Smith, the then Lord Proprietor of the islands, uncle of
the present Mr. Dorrien-Smith, introduced many others to Tresco, and
it is claimed for him that he was the first to see the possibilities
of a London market for these delightful flowers, blossoming here so
early, when London is still shivering in midwinter. According to this
article of faith, he advised some of his tenants to grow them and send
them up to Covent Garden for sale, himself sending the first lot, and
realising £1 profit from the transaction. According to other versions,
it was Mr. Trevellick, of Rocky Hill, St. Mary's, who made the first
consignment; and there is a circumstantial story which tells us that
he and a few pioneers, who despatched a few bunches in those early
years, when fresh spring blossoms first took London with delight,
realised thirty shillings a dozen bunches. A bunch in Scilly is a dozen
blooms; and therefore those fortunate few took twopence-halfpenny
apiece for narcissi. It seems almost too good to be true, and still
the Scillonians (there are no "Scilly people," as Sir Walter Besant
makes Armorel say, in his delightful "Armorel of Lyonesse") talk in
reverential tones of those wonderful days.
At that time the islanders were making a moderate livelihood out of
growing early potatoes; I have seen the quays of St. Mary's heaped high
with boxes of them. But nowadays let those grow "new potatoes" who
will. Scilly knows a more excellent way, and specialises in flowers
so completely, that no one would be in the least surprised to hear of
potatoes being imported, just as Scilly imports its cabbages and other
vegetables, its butter, and most other things, from "England."
The growth of flower-farming in Scilly has been continuous, and is by
no means restricted to St. Mary's: the "out-islands" take an active
part. But it is not the easy business it was, for the increased output
has naturally by degrees brought prices down, and a steady shilling a
dozen bunches would now be considered good. The business increases so
surely that this year's figures are out of date the next season. It was
considered remarkable in 1893, when the shipments amounted to something
over four hundred tons, but those of 1910 exceeded one thousand tons,
valued at £40,000. Of this total, the sum of £25,000 is reckoned to
be clear profit. So, although the flower-farmers have now to work for
their increase, the results are not discouraging, and the Scillies
still remain, and increasingly become, the Fortunate Isles. The climate
is mild and equable, there are no poor; "penal" Budgets raise no
alarms, for the isles are free from income-tax; and the wan, ragged,
famished spectre of unemployment, or of the unemployable, is unknown.
Scillonians read of it in the newspapers that occasionally come their
way, and ask visitors what it is!
Every one works in Scilly. I have seen it stated that Scillonians never
hurry. The person who made that statement can never have witnessed the
desperate efforts often made to pack the flowers, and get them on to
the quay at St. Mary's in time for the steamer, which, in winter, when
the flower-harvest is at its height, sails only thrice a week. If the
steamer is missed, that consignment is worth just nothing at all, for
it has to be on sale in London the next morning.
Visitors to Scilly, who commonly travel in summer and autumn, see
nothing of these activities. Then, if ever, the islanders who are
flower-farmers take things easily, and the little fields where the
daffodils and the narcissi grow are of comparatively small interest,
being bare of leaves or blossoms.
The fields are all carefully hedged round with shrubs calculated to
ward off the winds, which are the farmer's greatest enemy. They are
hedges of tamarisk, of laurel, and of escallonia; but chiefly of
escallonia, a small-leaved evergreen shrub with a close-growing habit.
Strangers at the first sight of its small delicate pink, waxlike
blossoms are taken with delight, but it is to the islanders a mere
commonplace. Some fields are large, but most very small, giving less
chance for the winds to come and play havoc, and the hedges grow to
great heights. Picking the blossoms begins as early as Christmas and
generally ends in March, when the season "in England" begins, and
Scilly rests from its labours, happy in the knowledge that it has
skimmed the cream of the trade.
Photographs of fields rich in daffodil and narcissus blossom are
familiar, but not readily to be understood, unless on the assumption
that they represent a glut in the market, rendering it not worth while
to pick them; for the practice is so to arrange the crop that there is
a succession of blossoms in the two months and a half, and always to
pick them before they are actually opened in full. They are then taken
to long glass sheds, and having been tied in bunches of a dozen, are
placed in water. Packing then follows. In the height of the season the
school-children have a month's holiday from school, especially to help
in the work of picking and packing. There are about four dozen bunches
to a box, and 240 boxes to a ton. Often the packing is continued all
night and into the early hours of the morning. Steam-launches bring
laden boats in from the out-islands by nine o'clock in the morning,
and an hour later there are perhaps fifty tons of flowers aboard the
steamer.
Such are now the chief activities of the Scilly Isles, and they, with
fishing and piloting, make up the entire life of the archipelago.
Formerly it was new potatoes, and before that a little kelp-burning,
and before that a good deal of smuggling kept the islanders alive.
Whence the isles derive their name no man knows. They are first
mentioned by Ausonius, who styles them _Sillinæ Insulæ_. Some declare
them to be named from a branch of the ancient Silures; others consider
"silya," a name for the conger, to be the origin; and yet others think
"sulleh," the sun-rocks, to be the true derivation. There are now five
inhabited islands. The largest of these, St. Mary's, contains 1,620
acres and a population of 1,200; Tresco has 700 acres; St. Martin's,
550 acres, St. Agnes, 350 acres, and Bryher, 300 acres. Samson, last
inhabited in 1855, has 80 acres. The smaller and uninhabited islets
are Annet, 40 acres, St. Helens, 40 acres: Teän and Great Ganniley,
each 35 acres, Arthur, 30 acres, Great and Little Ganniornic, 10 acres,
Northwithiel and Gweal, each 8 acres, and Little Ganniley, 5 acres.
Besides these, there are some hundreds of rocky islets and rocks.
The Isles of Scilly have never been too remote for conquerors to
descend upon and subdue them. Thus Athelstan not only subjugated
Cornwall in the tenth century, but subdued Scilly as well; and they
were fortified in the time of Queen Elizabeth, when the still-existing
Star Castle, overlooking St. Mary's, was built, as the initials, E.
R. and the date 1593, remain to prove. Scilly was not a safe place
of refuge for Prince Charles in 1645. He landed at St. Mary's from
Falmouth on March 4th, but the fleets of the Parliament rendered it
advisable for him to depart for Guernsey on April 17th. But the isles
became, only four years later, the headquarters of a determined band
of Royalists under Sir John Grenville, whose privateering exploits so
dealt with the shipping trade that it was found necessary to fit out an
expedition against him. He was reduced and forced to capitulate in June
1651.
From early times the greater part of the Islands belonged to Tavistock
Abbey. In 1539, when the Abbey was suppressed, they reverted to the
Crown. From the time of Queen Elizabeth, the Godolphin family and
Dukes of Leeds held them on lease, and so continued, except during the
Commonwealth period, until 1831. A lease from the Duchy of Cornwall
was then taken up by Augustus Smith, a landowner from Hertfordshire,
who thus became the first of the Smith and Smith-Dorrien "Lords
Proprietors," whose rule, from their residence on Tresco, has been
absolute.
Augustus Smith was an autocrat, but a benevolent one. He found the
islanders a half-starved race of smugglers and kelp-burners, and by the
time of his death, in 1872, left them a prosperous community.
St. Mary's Island is of irregular shape, and is nine miles in
circumference. The one town of Scilly, "Hugh Town," stands on the low
sandy isthmus of a rocky, almost islanded, peninsula, nearly awash
at very high tides, and with two sea-fronts. Over it towers the hill
called "The Garrison," crested by Star Castle, so called from its
ground-plan of a seven-pointed star; or, some say from "Stella Maris,"
Star of the Sea; a somewhat unlikely Roman Catholic dedication,
considering the Protestant times in which it was built. There has been
no garrison here since 1863. A tall wind-gauge stands near by, on the
hill-top.
[Illustration: STAR CASTLE, AND THE ISLAND OF SAMSON.]
From hence one best sees the island of Samson, two miles and a half
distant, lying directly in front of the setting sun. Samson is an
island of singular appearance, consisting of two hills joined by a low
belt of land. Its name probably derives from that sainted sixth-century
Bishop of Dôl, who has given his name to St. Sampson's (or Samson),
Golant. There are some ruined houses on Samson, sole relics of the
fifty people who once lived on it, and were deported to other islands
by the autocratic Augustus Smith. And on Samson's northern hill are no
fewer than eleven large sepulchral barrows. But if one wants to learn
much about Samson and about the Isles of Scilly, glorified by romance,
it is to the pleasant pages of Sir Walter Besant's novel, "Armorel of
Lyonesse," one must go. There is no better book to read at Scilly. But
Armorel's wonderful old home at Holy Hill is not in being, although
photographs show the ruined walls of a house more or less identified
with it. Besant no doubt took as his model the flower-farm at Holy
Vale, in the centre of St. Mary's Island.
[Illustration:
_Gibson & Sons, Penzance._]
ARMOREL'S HOME, SAMSON ISLAND.]
Standing on the Garrison at night, the lights of many lighthouses and
lightships are visible. There, on the almost exactly hemispherical
outline of Round Island, is the lighthouse that shows a red flash; the
Seven Stones lightship is out far beyond; St. Agnes light flashes on
its island, south-east; and behind it, four and a half miles away, is
the lonely Bishop lighthouse, completed in 1858, and said by some to
be exposed to worse weather and more terrific seas than any lighthouse
in the world. The lighthouse on St. Agnes is one of the oldest, if not
actually the oldest, in the service. It was built in 1680.
The wrecks upon Scilly have been innumerable, and the crowded
churchyard overlooking Old Town Bay bears witness to the great loss of
life incurred, even in modern times. Here rest one hundred and twenty
of the three hundred lost in the wreck of the German mail steamship
_Schiller_, which was on her way from New York to Plymouth. She struck
on the Retarrier reef, close by the Bishop lighthouse, in a fog on the
night of May 8th, 1875, and almost immediately sank. Only forty-five
of the three hundred and fifty-four persons on board were saved.
[Illustration: ST. AGNES.]
The Scilly Islands are not less remarkable for rock-scenery than the
mainland, and weirdly imitative piles of granite abound. There is a
rock, or rather a heap of rocks, on Peninis Head, called the "Pulpit
Rock," which at evening looks less like a pulpit than a naval gun;
and elsewhere are the "Punch Bowl," on St. Mary's, the "Nag's Head,"
on St. Agnes, and many others. Not least among these is the Logan
Rock, on Peninis Head, which weighs over three hundred tons, and
"logs" in a most satisfactory manner, when once started. But it is a
brace-breaking business, this starting of it, and you had better have a
guide, for this particular rock is not easily to be distinguished from
its fellows; and it is exhausting to attempt the moving of other, and
immovable, rocks of three or four hundred tons, before you happen to
hit upon the right one.
Round past Old Town is the rocky head of Giant's Castle, and then
Porthellick.
[Illustration: PULPIT ROCK.]
Porthellick, the "Bay of Willows," is a flat, shallow strand, where the
scant herbage at the foot of Sallakey Down dies gradually away upon the
beach. At one extremity of the Bay is the curious pile of granite rocks
resembling a loaded camel, kneeling, and at the other a rude fragment
of granite has been set upon another, on the sand, to form a rough
and ready monument, marking the spot where the body of Admiral Sir
Cloudesley Shovel was buried.
The story of the naval disaster in which the Admiral and nearly
eighteen hundred men were lost is one of the most tragic associated
with Scilly. A squadron consisting of the flagship _Association_, the
_Eagle_, _Phoenix_, _Lenox_, _Royal Anne_, _St. George_, _Romney_, and
_Firebrand_, returning from an expedition against Toulon, in October
1707, lost its course in foggy weather. On the 22nd the _Association_
struck on the Bishop and Clerks rocks and immediately went down,
with all on board; the _Eagle_ and _Romney_ were also lost, together
with the _Firebrand_, but a few on board the last were saved. The
other vessels miraculously escaped. A great deal of mystery was made
respecting the disaster and the fate of the Admiral, and a legend, long
implicitly believed, gained currency that the shipwrecks were entirely
due to the savage obstinacy of the Admiral, who, it was stated, not
only refused to listen to a sailor, a native of Scilly, on board, who
warned him that he was steering too far northward, but actually had
the man hanged from the yardarm for presuming to know better than his
superiors. That such a story should ever have gained belief in itself
shows us how undesirable service in the Royal Navy must then have been.
The sailor, the story goes on to say, asked one favour before he was
turned off--that he should be allowed to read a portion out of the
Bible. It was granted, and he read the 109th Psalm, one of the cursing
Psalms, with this salient passage: "Let his days be few; and let
another take his office. Let his children be fatherless and his wife a
widow.... Let his posterity be destroyed, and in the next generation
let his name be clean put out. Because his mind was not to do good,
but persecuted the poor, helpless man, that he might slay him that was
vexed at the heart."
The whole story is a fabrication, simply elaborated out of the
narrative told by George Lawrence, quartermaster of the _Romney_, to
Edmund Herbert, Deputy Paymaster-General of Marines, and detailed in
his report of 1709. Lawrence was the one man saved from the _Romney_,
and he said that about one or two o'clock on the afternoon of October
22nd, the Admiral called a council of officers, to discover in what
latitude they were. All agreed they were off Ushant, except the master
of the _Lenox_, who said they were off Scilly. Then a lad also declared
a light they presently made was Scilly light, whereupon all the ship's
crew swore at him.
Among the many contradictory stories told of the finding of Sir
Cloudesley Shovel's body on the sands of Porthellick, the most tragic
version is probably the most truthful. It was at first given out that
he was dead when found, and he certainly was buried here, where the
rude stone monument now stands--a spot where, superstition says, grass
will never grow. Four days later, the body was dug up, identified, and
eventually given a State funeral in Westminster Abbey.
No one could tell what had become of a very valuable emerald ring the
Admiral wore, and his widow offered rewards for it, in vain. But many
years later, about 1734, a woman of St. Mary's, then lying at the point
of death, made the terrible confession that the Admiral had been washed
ashore, exhausted, but still living, and that she had choked him, to
secure his clothes and jewellery. She produced the ring, which was
sent to Lord Dursley, afterwards Earl of Berkeley. It has been set
with diamonds in a locket, and in that form is still possessed by the
Berkeley family.
[Illustration: HOLY VALE.]
Holy Vale, inland, is one of the few places on St. Mary's where trees
grow. Whence arose the name is quite unknown, and there is nothing in
the nature of any religious house here; but there is, if you like to
look at it in that way, a holy calm in this sheltered spot, where the
winds abate and groups of dracæna palms grow freely.
But Tresco is the show-place in Scilly for gardens. It is something
under two miles to the island of Tresco, where the residence of
the Lord Proprietor is situated. There is little left of the Abbey
buildings, and the residence so called is quite modern. Beneath it is a
rush-bordered freshwater lake, and all around are subtropical gardens,
in which visitors are free to wander. Here is a large shed partly
built from the timbers of wrecked vessels, whose figureheads form a
melancholy row in front. The old iron cresset in which the coal-fires
of St. Agnes lighthouse were burnt until 1790, stands close by.
Tresco is two miles long. Visitors rarely go beyond the Abbey gardens,
but the walk along to the northern extremity of the island is
interesting, commanding views on one side across the narrow channel
of New Grimsby to the island of Bryher, and on the other across Old
Grimsby to St. Helen's, Menavawr, Round Island, Teän, and St. Martin's.
Here, in New Grimsby Harbour, are the ruins of "Cromwell's Castle,"
and out in the channel is Hangman's Island, where vague legends say
he hanged his prisoners. Not far off are the ruins of Charles Castle.
The shores are thickly grown to the water's edge with vivid-coloured
mesembryanthemum, an alien plant, which looks better than its name. And
in the cliffs on the headland is the dark cavern of "Piper's Hole,"
running a long way in, with a stygian lake in its midst and a boat to
take you across to further exploration, which is weirdly done by the
aid of torches.
The names of the Scilly rocks and islets are themselves a pure delight,
compact of romantic suggestion. There, off Bryher, exposed to the
full fury of the Atlantic, are the two grim rocks called Scilly, that
confer a name upon the entire group; there is Maiden Bower, there are
Mincarlo, Illiswilgie, Great and Little Minalto, Carntop, Nundeeps, the
ominous Grim Rocks, Tearing Ledge, Crebawethan and his little brother,
Rosevean, Rosevear, Daisy, Gorregan, Meledgan, Hellweathers, and I know
not how many others. And weather permitting--a much more insistent
condition here than elsewhere--you may, with the aid of experienced
boatmen, come near them all, and experience wonderful fishing and see
strange assemblages of solemn sea-birds grouped, fishing also, but with
unerring beak, from lonely ledges.
Great families of cormorants, shags, and puffins inhabit these rocky
places, subsisting upon fish. The fishing methods of these birds
differ entirely from those of the gull, for they are clumsy in flight
and are expert rather in diving from cliffs than soaring. It is not
easy to frighten a cormorant, and it is quite impossible to satisfy
his ravenous hunger, which has rendered the very name of "cormorant"
a synonym for greed and rapacity. I have seen excursionists engage in
the hopeless task of trying to "shoo" a solemn conclave of cormorants
away by shouting, gesticulating, and throwing stones, but those wise
birds, better able to judge distances in their native air than any
holiday-making townsfolk, do not so much as deign to take notice of the
disturbers, and witness stones falling a quarter of a mile or so short
with all the contempt such marksmen deserve.
The shag is no doubt equally wise, but his is an even more
contemplative and much less active wisdom than that of the cormorant.
To see a row of still and solemn shags, all black and white, gazing
into immensity from a shelf of rock is extraordinarily parsonic
in effect: just as though one had come upon the Upper and Lower
Houses of Convocation in full session. But there is humour among
the clergy; no one has ever yet observed it in a shag. The shags,
indeed, are extra-parsonic; more like fakirs in surplices. They take
life seriously, and look with a calm but severe disapproval upon the
laughter of strangers.
And strangers tend to increase in Scilly and its surrounding seas,
in spite of the voyage from Penzance. The isles, truly the Fortunate
Isles, where there is no income-tax and there are no motor-cars, and
the post comes but once a day--and sometimes not even then--and the
only police-force necessary is one officer, who combines all ranks,
and even then has little to do, are further blest with a delightfully
equable climate, and good hotel and other accommodation. They look with
some pity upon the turmoils of the adjacent island of Great Britain.
INDEX
Alverton, 219, 248
Antony (or Antony-in-the-East), 27, 33
Antony Passage, 23, 28
"Apron-string," The, 164
Arwenack, 89, 100
Asparagus Island, 161
Balk, The, 148
Beast (or Bass) Point, 157
Belidden Cove, 157
Bessie's Cove, 193
Biscovey Stone, The, 65
Black Head (near Charlestown), 72
---- (near Coverack), 143
Black Rock, 88
Blackie, Professor, 170
Bleu Bridge, 215
Bodinnick, 54
Boleit, 229
Bonython, 153
Borlase, Dr. Wm., 213, 235
Boscawen Point, 230
Botus Fleming, 17
Brandies Rocks, 156
Breage, 187-9
Brunel, I. K., 21
Burraton Combe, 21
Cadgwith Cove, 145, 150
Caerleon Cove, 144
Caerthillian Cove, 160
Callington, 10, 17
Calstock, 4-7, 18
Cambarrow, 147
Caraclowse Point, 143
Carclaze, 67, 68, 69
Cargreen, 15
Carn Brâs, 254
---- Guethensbras, 245
---- les-Boel, 246
---- Voel, 246
Carrick Roads, 83
Carter, Henry, smuggler, 195
---- John, smuggler, 194-7
Castell-an-Dinas, 213
Castle Dwr, 64
Cawsand, 30
Chair Ladder, 242-5
Chapel Point, 74
Charles Church, Falmouth, 94
Charlestown, 65-7, 72
China Clay, 66-9, 109
Church Cove, 148, 158
Chyandour, 206, 215
Cober, River, 185
Constantine, 99, 126
---- stone, The, 200
Cookworthy, William, 68-70
Cormorants, 273
Cornish language, The, 124, 226
Coryton Family, The, 10, 12
Cothele (or Cotehele), 7-9
Coverack Cove, 142
Crafthole, 33
Crane Cove, 160
Cremyll, 31
Crenval, 157
Crumplehorn, 48
Cuddan Point, 198
Cury, 129, 153, 181
Danescombe, 9
Davy, Sir Humphry, 213, 217
Daws' Hugo, 157
Dennis Point, 130
"Devil's Frying Pan," 146, 242
---- Post Office, 162
Devoran, 107
Dodman Head, 30, 74
Dollar Wreck, The, 182-4
Dolor Hugo, 146
Downderry, 33
"Drawing-Room" Cave, 162
Durgan, 123, 126, 129
Durra Creek, 130, 133
Edgcumbe, Sir Richard, 7
Eliot Family, The, 24-7
Exmouth, Viscount, Early home of, 248
Falmouth, 88-100, 263
---- Harbour, 82-4, 86, 88, 92, 105
Fal River, 83, 108-111
Flushing, 99
Forder, 22
Fowey, 49-54, 63
---- River, 49, 54-6
Furry Dance, The, 186
Germoe, 190
Gerrans, 80
---- Bay, 80
Golant, 55
Goldsmith, Lieut., 235
Goonhilly Downs, 152
Gorran, 74
---- Haven, 74
Grade, 152
Gue Graze, 165
Gull Rock, 162
Gulval, 214
Gunnislake, 2
Gunwalloe, 40, 181-4, 186
Gwavas Lake, 224
Gweek, 127
Halzaphron Cliffs, 184
Hamoaze, The, 5, 6, 18, 28, 31, 83
Harewood House, 4
Hawker, Rev. R. S., 39, 121
Helford, 129
---- River, 123, 125-7, 129, 130, 151
Helston, 89, 152, 185-7
Hingston Down, 3
Hoe Point, 191
Holmbush, 66
"Horse," The, 165
"Horsepond," The, 165
Hot Point, 158
Housel Bay, 157
Ince Castle, 24
Kennack Sands, 144
"Kettles Bottom," 255
Kilcobbin Cove, 158
Killigrew Family, The, 24, 89, 100-102, 153
King Harry Passage, 109
Kingsand, 30
King's Tamerton, 21
Kit Hill, 3
"Kitchen Cave," 162
Kynance Cove, 153, 159-64
Lamorna Cove, 228
Lamorran, 40, 83
Landewednack, 148-50
Land's End, 246, 251-4
Landulph, 15-17
Lansallos, 48
Lanteglos-juxta-Fowey, 48
Lerrin, 55
Levelis family, The, 228
Lion Rock, 163
"Lion's Den" (near the Lizard), 157, 242
---- (Land's End), 246
Little Falmouth, 99
Lizard, The, 150-53
---- Lighthouse, 153-5
---- Town, 148-51, 153, 157, 159
Loe Bar, 181, 184-6
---- Pool, 185, 187
Logan Rock, 231-6
Longships Lighthouse, 254
Longstone, The, 64
Looe, 34-40, 55
---- River, 35
Lostwithiel, 54, 59-62
Ludgvan, 213
Lynher (or St. Germans) River, 23, 27
Lyonesse, 199, 206, 254
Maker, 31
Malpas, 83, 108, 110
Manaccan, 129
Manacles Rocks, 136-9
Man-o'-War Rocks, 159
Marazion, 199-202
Mawgan-in-Meneage, 127-9
Mawnan, 123-6
---- Smith, 123
Menabilly, 63
Meneage district, The, 142, 151
Mengu Stone, The, 71
Mên-y-Grib, 166
Merry Maidens, The, Rosemoddress, 230
---- ---- The, Boscawen-Ûn, 230
Merthen, 127
Merther, 112
Mevagissey, 72-4
Mill Bay, 246
Millbrook, 32, 33
Morwell Rocks, 3
Morwellham Quay, 1, 3
Mount Ararat, 10, 15
Mount Edgcumbe, 30-33
---- ---- Earls of, 7-9, 30
Mount's Bay, 198, 202, 206, 220, 224
Mousehole, 226-8
Mullion, 170-75
---- Cove, 165, 166, 170, 176
---- Island, 165
Mundy, Mary, 171-5
Mylor, 40, 83, 102-106
Mylor Bridge, 102
---- Creek, 102, 106
Nanjizel, 246
Nare Point, 135
Netstakes, 1, 3
New Bridge, 1
Newlyn, 220-25
---- School, 220-24
Noti-Noti Stone, The, 200
Old Kea Church, 110
---- Lizard Head, 160
Palæologus, Theodore, 16
Par, 53, 64
Pardenick Point, 246
"Parlour" Cave, 162
Paul, 225, 227
Pedn Boar, 143
Penberth Cove, 231
Pencarrow Head, 48
Pendennis Castle, 82, 84, 86, 89, 91, 99, 109, 114
Pendower Cove, 246
Pengersick Castle, 190
Penlee Point, 30
Pennare, 72
Pennycomequick, 89
Penolver Head, 157
Penpoll, 107
Penquite, 55
Penrose, 187
Penryn, 89, 99-101
Pentewan, 72
Pentillie, 10-15
Pentraeth Beach, 160
Pentreath, Dolly, 226
Penwith district, 247-54
Penzance, 217-220, 248
Perran Wharf, 108
Perranarworthal, 108
Perranuthnoe, 198
Phœnicians in Cornwall, 201, 207
Picklecombe Fort, 30
Pigeons' Hugo, 165
Pilchard Fishery, The, 45-7
Pistol Meadow, 160
Plymouth Sound, 18, 30
Point Neptune, 63
Pol Cornick, 165
Poldhu, 167, 176, 181
Polkerris, 63
Polmear (or Charlestown), 66-7
Polpear Cove, 155, 159
Polperro, 42-8, 73
Polruan, 49, 54
Poltesco, 144
Polurrian, 167, 176
Polvarth, 82
Polwheverill Creek, 126
Ponsanooth, 108
Port Eliot, 24-7
Port Holland, 78
Port Loe, 44, 79
Port Navas, 126
Porthallow, 135
Porthcueil, 82, 84
Porthcurno, 236-38
Porth Gwarra, 241
Porthleven, 186, 187
Porthloe, 241, 245
Porthmellin (or Mullion Cove), 165, 167, 170, 176
Porthoustock, 135, 138
Porthpean, 72
Portmellin, 74
Portscatho, 80
Portuan (or East Looe), 36
Portwrinkle, 33
Praa Sands, 189
Pradanack, 165
Prussia Cove, 191, 193-98
Rame, 29
Rame Head, 29
Rashleigh Family, The, 53, 64
Ravens' Hugo, 148
Restronguet Creek, 84, 107, 108
Rill Head, 161, 164
Rinsey Head, 189
Roseland, 84
Rosemullion Head, 123
Roundwood Creek, 84
"Royal Albert Bridge," 20
Ruan Creek, 84, 109
---- Lanihorne, 83, 109
---- Major, 152
---- Minor, 145
Rundlestone, The, 240, 257
St. Anthony in Meneage, 131-5
St. Anthony-in-Roseland, 82
St. Anthony Lighthouse, 82, 84
St. Austell, 66, 68, 69-72
St. Breaca, 188
St. Buriana (or Bruinech), 249
St. Buryan, 228, 249
St. Clements, 111
St. Clement's Island, 228
St. Cohan, 112
St. Dominic, 9
St. Feock, 40, 83, 107-9
St. Germans, 24-7
St. Germans, Earls of, 24-7
St. Germans (or Lynher) River, 23-8
St. Germoch, 191
St. Gluvias, 92, 100
St. Godwald, 214
St. Hilary, 199-201
St. John's, 33
St. Just-in-Roseland, 83, 106
St. Kea, 110
St. Keverne, 12, 138, 139-41, 143
St. Levan, 238-41
St. Lidgean, 213
St. Loy's Cove, 230
St. Mawes, 83, 85-7
St. Mawes Creek, 82
St. Mawgan, 127
St. Mellion, 10, 12
St. Melor, 102
St. Michael Caerhayes, 75-8
St. Michael Penkevil, 110
St. Michael's Mount, 202-12
St. Newlyna, 220
St. Piran, 139
St. Pol de Leon, 214, 225
St. Ruan, 152
St. Samson, or Sampson, 55, 265
St. Senan, 249
St. Stephen's-in-Brannel, 67, 69, 74
St. Stephen's-by-Saltash, 20, 21
St. Veep, 54
St. Winnow, 54, 55-7
St. Winwaloe, 149, 181
St. Wulvella, 214
Saltash, 10, 17, 18-21
Saltash Bridge, 20
Scilly Islands, 256-74
"Armorel of Lyonesse," 259, 266
Bishop Lighthouse, 266
Bryher, 263, 272
Carntop, 273
Charles Castle, 272
Crebawethan, 273
Cromwell's Castle, 272
Crow Sound, 258
Daisy, 273
Flower farming, 258-62
Giant's Castle, 268
Gorregan, 273
Great Arthur, 258
Great Ganilly, 258
Great Ganinick, 258
Great Minalto, 258
Grim Rocks, 273
Hangman's Island, 272
Hanjague, 258
Hellweathers, The, 273
Hugh Town, 258, 264
Illiswilgie, 273
Little Arthur, 258
Little Ganilly, 258
Little Ganiornick, 258
Little Minalto, 273
Logan Rock, 267
Maiden Bower, 273
Meledgan, 273
Menavawr, 272
Menewethan, 258
Mincarlo, 273
"Nag's Head" Rock, 267
New Grimsby Channel, 272
Nornor, 258
Nundeeps, 273
Old Grimsby Channel, 272
Peninis Head, 267
Piper's Hole, 272
Porthellick, 268, 270
"Pulpit" Rock, 267
"Punch Bowl" Rock, 267
Ragged Island, 258
Retarrier Reef, 266
Rosevean, 273
Rosevear, 273
Round Island, 266, 272
St. Agnes, 263, 266, 267
St. Helen's, 272
St. Martin's, 258, 263, 272
St. Mary's, 254, 256, 258, 260, 263, 264
St. Mary's Sound, 258
Samson, 263, 265
Scilly, 272
Smith, Augustus, 259, 264, 265
Star Castle, 263, 264
Teän, 272
Tearing Ledge, 273
Tresco, 259, 263, 264, 271
Scraesdon Fort, 28
Seagulls, 46-8
Seaton, 34
Sennen, 249-51
"Seven Stones" Lightship, 254, 266
Shags, 273
Sheviock, 27
Shovel, Admiral Sir Cloudesley, 268-70
Smithick (or Smithike), 89
Smuggling, 30, 41, 168, 193-7
"Song of the Sea," The, 246
"Song of the Western Men," 39
Southdown, 32
"Stags," The, 157
_Statio Tamard_, 21
Steeple Rock, 161
Talland, 40-2
Tamar River, 1-11, 15, 18, 21, 83
"Tar Box," 160
Thanckes, 28
Tillie, Sir James, 12-15, 140
Tin, ancient trading in Cornwall, 201, 204-7, 215
Tol Pedn Penwith, 241
Torpoint, 28
Treffry Family, The, 52, 53, 64
Trefusis Point, 102, 105
Tregantle Fort, 28, 33
Tregothnan, 109, 110, 113
Trelawne, 39
Trelawny Ballad, The, 39
Trelissick, 109
Trematon Castle, 21-3
Trereen, 231
---- Dinas, 231-7
Tresilian Bridge, 83, 84, 111-14
---- Creek, 111-14
Trevanion Family, The, 76, 78
Trewavas Head, 189
Trewoofe, 228
Truro, 83, 89, 114, 115-22
Vellan Head, 165
Veryan, 78-80
---- Bay, 74
Weir Head, 1, 3
West Newton Ferrers, 10, 12
Whitesand Bay, 29
Wireless Telegraphy, 176
Wolf Lighthouse, 255
Wrecks:--
_Anson_, 184
_Association_, 268
_Bluejacket_, 255
_Brankelow_, 184
_Dispatch_, 136, 143
_Eagle_, 269
_Firebrand_, 269
_Glenbervie_, 139
_John_, 136
_Jonkheer_, 167
_Khyber_, 241, 245
_Mohegan_, 136-8, 140
_Noisiel_, 189
_Queen_, 92, 105
_Romney_, 269
_Schiller_, 266
_Suevic_, 156
_Susan and Rebecca_, 184
Yellow Head, 160
Ynys Head, 145
Ynys Vean, 160
_Printed and bound by Hazell, Watson & Viney, Ld., London and
Aylesbury._
* * * * *
Transcriber's Notes:
Footnotes have been moved to the end of each chapter and relabeled
consecutively through the document.
Illustrations have been moved to paragraph breaks near where they are
discussed.
Punctuation has been made consistent.
The Contents entry and chapter header for Chapter IX list "St.
Anthony-in-Roseland," but the presentation in the chapter is for "St.
Anthony-in-Meneage."
Variations in spelling and hyphenation were retained as they appear in
the original publication, except as noted below.
Changes have been made as follows:
Page 3: Inserted "a" (beautiful as a Thames-side)
Page 10: "circuituous" changed to "circuitous" (most circuitous loops)
Page 106: "Alafs" changed to "Alass" (Alass Frend Joseph)
Page 176: "obession" changed to "obsession" (an obsession, not)
Page 220: "as" changed to "a" (Penzance as a great)
Page 272: "thee ntire" changed to "the entire" (upon the entire group)
End of Project Gutenberg's The Cornish Coast (South), by Charles G. Harper