work, if navigating salt water. A constant study should be made of
the tides, learn their strength, direction and height. Always carry a
tide book, and make a habit of consulting the tables. By knowing the
exact time of the current changes and the locations where they change
earliest you will save hours of time in getting from port to port. In
estuaries and sounds the current generally runs longest in mid-channel
and changes on the inshore first. So if carrying the last of a tide
keep in midstream; if using the first of it keep inshore. Eddies can
be found by examining the shore line, and drawing conclusions from the
trend of the coast. Much distance can sometimes be gained by working
eddies if sailing against an adverse current.
ATTRACTION:
Floating objects have a tremendous attraction for each-other, and if
lying becalmed will gradually draw together. This is an influence
shared by every particle of matter in the universe, but passes
unnoticed upon land where we only see it manifested as weight. It no
doubt accounts for many of the collisions at sea in thick weather. Many
strandings are also due to this attraction which draws vessels towards
the land. In sailing at night or in thick weather along a coast, this
force should be allowed for. It is most likely to be felt on high, bold
shores, and least on low, shallow ones. It is this attraction that
causes your dingey on a still night to insist upon lying against the
stern or side of the yacht.
WORKING CRAFT AND STEAMERS:
Yachtsmen should never unnecessarily bother coasters or steam vessels,
or any craft that is on the water for business. A yacht can be easily
cast from tack to tack, whereas it is a laborious job to turn a heavily
laden schooner round. But if you are not going to insist upon having
the right of way always tack or shift your helm in plenty of time, so
that the other man can know what you are about. If you decide to stand
on, do so, and don’t balk at the last moment when close aboard of the
other vessel. It is this indecision which leads to collisions.
COASTERS:
The lookout on coasters is generally badly kept, owing to their being
short-manned, and sometimes to carelessness. At night and in foggy
weather keep out of their track, if possible. Also, keep out of the way
of tugs towing barges, as they are bad customers, who pay little or no
attention to the rights of small craft. Large steamers are as a general
thing very carefully navigated, and can be trusted to go clear, if
they see you; but remember that yacht side lights are poor things, and
cannot be seen at any distance.
ANCHORED VESSELS:
Never try to cross the bows of anchored vessels, especially sailing
craft, unless you are well to windward of them. Trying to shave a
jib-boom has cost many a man a spar or a sail. It is always best if
there is any doubt of clearing to go under the vessel’s stern.
UNDERWAY, VESSELS:
Don’t attempt to cross the bows of another vessel, especially a larger
one, when underway, unless you are certain you can clear her. You will
be clear of the other vessel, providing she holds the same course, when
you can see her anchor on the further bow. In meeting a large sailing
vessel, head to head, don’t pass close along her lee side; your boat
may become becalmed, soak in, and get a nasty swipe from a boom end.
CRUISING:
The rule for a cruiser is to start early and finish early. Map out a
run that with the expected conditions you can complete easily in the
allotted time. This, doing as many shippers do, starting after the
sun is well up and finishing late, is the cause of discontent among a
crew. Getting into harbor after dark, hungry and tired, all hands are
in a bad humor, and work is neglected or scanted, and the pleasure of
the run spoiled. If you have wind, and the tide is right, get away at
daylight and finish your run before sunset; then you will have light to
find an anchorage, and get all snug before getting supper and turning
in.
MAKING A QUICK RUN:
To make a quick run in a sailing vessel wait until you get the
conditions favorable and start. Then carry all she will, and push her
right through. In this way I have made 120 miles in 24 hours. It is
seldom on our Eastern Seaboard that you can make a run like this during
the summer season, the winds as a general thing losing their strength
after sunset.
ACCIDENTS TO MEN:
The principal accident that endangers the life and limb of yachtsmen
is that inflicted by the main boom. I have known several men to have
lost their lives through being struck by this spar, and have been twice
badly hurt myself. A jibing boom comes over with tremendous force,
and is likely, if it hits, either to fracture the skull or knock the
unfortunate person it hits overboard. In cruising boats the foot of the
sail should be cut up sufficiently aft to raise the boom above the head
of the man standing in the cockpit. In very small boats this cannot
be done. Another source of danger is the mainsheet. Great care should
be exercised in bad weather when handling it. Also, look out for the
blocks on the clew of the jib, as they will give you a nasty rap.
LEAD LINE, TO MAKE A:
It is no use marking a lead line as seamen do, as not one man in a
hundred can ever remember the marks. Again, frequently you have to
put a green hand to work taking casts, and he never could tell one
piece of rag from another, or a hole in a piece of leather from one in
the water. Get a good-sized piece of corded rope, like that used for
window weights, measure of either five or ten fathoms. Ten is best, if
you intend to cruise far. At one fathom clove hitch a short piece of
marline round the line and tie one knot in the end. At two fathoms two
knots and so on. In this way the greenest greenhorn can tell by simply
feeling with his fingers. I use a line like this, and can tell in the
darkest night just what the cast is.
LEAKS:
Leaks are most dangerous in the middle body and least dangerous at the
ends, but the latter are most difficult to find and stop. Sometimes a
small leak may have its outside opening far away from where it appears
inside. This is especially so if it comes through the bow or stern
timbers. It is seldom that a leak can be stopped from the inside,
although it may be temporarily checked. You should always carry a small
calking iron, some cotton, a piece of sheet lead, copper or rubber, for
use in stopping leaks.
LEAKS:
Centerboard boats, if old or not properly built, will leak constantly,
especially if they are hard-pressed. They should be thoroughly looked
to before being put overboard in the spring, and any bad places cleaned
out and re-calked. The king bolt should also be removed and repacked.
Another source of leaks is the rudder port. In many boats this opening
is not carried high enough, and in bad weather the sea slops in through
it. It should be boxed in and carried up to the deck.
LEAKS:
Frequently a boat will leak in her topsides when heeled down, causing
a lot of annoyance, as water running in there is apt to wet the
bedding, etc. These leaks are sometimes the effect of straining, owing
to poor construction. At other times they are due to sun exposure. If a
vessel is allowed to lie constantly with one side exposed to the rays
of the sun her plank will dry and open up. If a boat is not put into
commission early in the spring she should be kept well-covered up to
prevent this.
[Illustration: HOVE TO.]
LEAKS:
Leaky decks are difficult to make tight, and are the worst possible
nuisance. Wooden decks on small sail-boats cannot be kept tight, unless
they are covered with canvas and kept well-painted. Wherever the canvas
is pierced, be careful to see that the cloth is carried well up and
closely tacked to the object that goes through it. If a bolt or screw
for a fairleader or hook passes through have a wide washer at the base
and screw it down hard. Around the mast at the partners use a coat made
of sheet lead.
LEAKS:
A very common place for leaks to develop is in the rabbet between the
garboard and keel, just under the mast. This is due to the downward
thrust and working of the spar. If a boat persists in leaking there,
lengthen the mast step so as to distribute the strain over a larger
space. Our modern plank-keel boats are liable to develop cracks in
the plank, which will only leak when underway, and are difficult to
discover, as they close up when the boat is at rest. If the leak is bad
it can be readily found by hauling the boat out, filling her bilge with
water and watching where it drips out.
LEAKS, STOPPING:
You can sometimes stop or check a leak by calking from the inside, if
you can get at it; but great care should be exercised in driving the
cotton not to push it in too hard, as you may drive out what calking
is in the seam, and make the leak worse. Holes, if they can be got at
from the outside, can be covered with sheet lead, copper, or a piece of
rubber boot leg. In an emergency the same can be used inside to check
the flow. Barge men frequently use horse manure to stop leaks in the
seams when near the water line; they throw it overboard and let the
water draw it into the crevice. I have checked a leak by running a boat
on a bar of soft sand, thus getting sand in the seam.
LEAK, TO FRAP A:
If you get a hole in the bottom from striking a rock or other
obstruction, and cannot put the boat ashore on a safe place, you can
check it enough to keep her afloat by what is called frapping. Take a
sail or large piece of canvas, and fasten a line to each of the four
corners, then on the inside of the canvas sew a lot of oakum or cotton
so as to make a wad big enough to completely cover the hole and a large
space around it. Pass two of the lines under the boat and bring them up
on the side opposite to the one the leak is on; keep the other two on
the side the leak is. Work the canvas along until it covers the hole,
and then haul all the lines taut, and make fast, the pressure will
force the wadding into the hole and check the inflow of water until you
can lay the boat ashore.
SCUPPER-PIPE LEAKING:
If you get a bad leak in the scupper pipe, and cannot get at it from
the inside, the following method is a quick and sure way of stopping
the inflow of water: Cut a round disk of wood about five times bigger
across than the outside opening of the pipe. Bore a hole in the middle
of this disk just small enough to pass a strong cord through and knot.
Then on inside of the disk fasten a good big wad of cotton batting, or
oakum; this you can do with tacks, thread or glue. I have used thick
paint and cotton wadding pulled out of an old quilt. When the disk is
ready, take another line and weight it with a sinker, drop it down the
scupper pipe until it hangs outside, then fish it up with a boat hook
and bring the end on board. Marry the end of this cord to the cord
attached to the disk. Then haul the cord in through the pipe until the
disk comes up against and closes the scupper hole. By taking a stick
and making a windlass of it you can roll the cord up tightly and secure
the disk so it will not slip.
LOOKOUT REPORTS:
The lookout should examine the side lights, at least every half hour,
and report to the man aft in command their condition. He should also
see that the set of the headsails do not cover the lee light. If so, be
prepared to show it clear if a vessel approaches on that bow.
SIDE LIGHTS:
The side lights should be kept clean and the lamps properly trimmed.
Use signal oil in them. After lighting the lamps below place them in
the lanterns, and let them burn for some minutes with the door open.
This will dry out the moisture and allow it to escape. If you don’t
do this, your glass will cloud with watery vapor. The cause of these
lights refusing to burn is generally want of air, owing to overheating.
The gas inside preventing the fresh oxygen from entering.
WORKING FORWARD AT NIGHT:
If you send a man forward of a rough dark night, put a light line
around him and have it fast aft, or else have another hand hold it.
This should always be done if a headsail is to be taken in, as more men
are lost off the bowsprit than from any other spar.
LOOKOUT:
Always at night, if sailing in waters frequented by other vessels, keep
a good lookout. If two men are in the watch, have one forward whenever
you get among other craft, as it is difficult to keep a close watch
to leeward from the cockpit. The helmsman should keep a lookout to
windward and astern.
WATCH TACKLE:
A watch tackle or Handy Billy is most useful contrivance, and should
have a place on every cruising boat. It is made of a single and double
block, both having hooks, or else the single having a hook and the
double an eye. For a small yacht, blocks carrying a 15-thread rope are
heavy enough. When stretched to its best there should be at least 15
feet drift between the blocks. This tackle saves oceans of labor, and
makes the heaviest job light. If your anchor sticks, Handy Billy will
bring him to terms. If you get aground, he will give a strong pull on
the warp to get you off. If the bobstay breaks, or a shroud parts, he
will help to keep the mast in while repairs are being made. You want
good, strong blocks, as there is a tremendous strain when all the beef
is on this tackle. Keep Handy Billy in a safe and easily accessible
place, and he will pay you well for his lodgings.
TACK, WHICH:
This is something that many men get sadly mixed on, and consequently
are frequently violating the rules of the road. A vessel is on the
starboard tack when her boom is on the port side and the wind is
blowing on her starboard side. She is on the port tack when the boom
is on the starboard side and the wind is blowing on her port side.
Not only are there men sailing who in an emergency cannot tell the
port side from the starboard, but who do not know their right from
their left hand. One day I was watching a sergeant drilling a squad of
recruits. He said to me, “would you believe it, half these men don’t
know their right from their left hand.” Upon my questioning this, he
suddenly commanded them to raise their right hands, two lifted the
right, one the left, and the other three looked doubtfully at both for
some seconds before raising the right one up. You can always know when
you are on the starboard tack in this way: Standing at the helm and
facing forward, if your right hand is on the side from which the wind
is blowing you are on the starboard tack. When I was a boy, and even
to-day in an emergency, I always tell my right hand by thinking which
hand I would throw a stone with.
OFF THE WIND:
When a vessel is sailing off the wind the tack is determined by the
position of the main boom. For instance, if a schooner or yawl is
running wing-a-wing with the main boom off on the port side she is on
the starboard tack.
RIGHT OF WAY:
A sailing vessel has the right of way over all steam or power vessels,
except when she is the overtaking craft; then she must keep out of the
way of the vessel overtaken. A “steam vessel” in the eyes of the law
is any vessel driven by machinery, no matter of what kind or sort, and
includes all gasolene, kerosene and electric boats. An auxiliary, if
using her engine, is a steam vessel, and must keep clear of sailing
craft, no matter whether she has sail set or not. Sailing craft must
keep clear of rowboats.
SWIGGING A TACKLE:
When taking a swig on a tackle, in order to get a sail up, especially
on the lee side, if the boat is heeling be careful to get a firm brace
of your body or a good leg hold. Sometimes the pin will fly out,
or your turn on the cleat slip, and you are liable to go overboard
backwards.
REEF POINTS:
The best way is to have the different sets of points made of different
kinds of line. Use cotton for the first and manila for the second. Then
when tying in, especially in the dark, you will be sure to get the
right ends knotted together.
PEAK HALYARDS:
The hauling part of the peak halyards is usually brought down and
belayed on the starboard side of the mast. I bring mine down on the
port side, for this simple reason: The terms peak and port begin with
the same letter, and thus it is easy for a green hand to find the right
rope. Frequently a trained hand in a moment of excitement will let go
the wrong halyard, but by remembering the letter P you are less likely
to make the mistake.
CREW AND SKIPPER:
If you are to command, show yourself a leader, not by talk, but by
action. Always be first in everything that requires skill or courage.
Thus you will win your crew’s respect, and if they respect you they
will obey you. Never send a man to do a task you fear to do yourself.
If there is any danger, lead, and your men will follow; but you cannot
expect men to risk their limbs or lives to save your vessel if you
shrink from the position who have the most at jeopardy. Don’t put all
the hard work on the crew; do your share of it; also the dirty jobs. If
you are working watch and watch, be sure to be the first on deck when
your watch is called, and don’t leave it, unless you are sure that the
yacht is in safe hands and that your care and skill is not needed.
SKIPPER’S DUTIES:
It is your duty as skipper to know and see everything that goes on.
If you order the lead to be hove see that it is. See that the lights
are attended to and ready. See that the course is being properly
steered. Before turning in at night inspect your riding gear, likewise
when coming to an anchor. Don’t trust to a report, go and look at it.
See that the pump is used and the vessel kept clear of water. Make a
practice of doing these things until they become a habit.
SKIPPER AND MATE:
If you have a second in command, and he is a man who understands his
work, if you place him in charge of the deck don’t be constantly
interfering with him. If he is not competent to take charge of the
yacht, he has no business to be where he is. If you put confidence in
a man, and he is worthy of it, it will strengthen him and enable him to
do better work all along the line.
STANDING ORDER TO MATE:
My standing order, and one that I always enforce, is this: When in
charge of the boat no reefs are to be shaken out or extra sail made
without my order; but sail can be taken in or reefed at any time
without waiting to call me.
CREW, DISCIPLINE:
In order to insure safety, comfort and good work, you must enforce a
certain amount of discipline upon your crew. You can only do this by
showing that you are amenable to it. You cannot expect men who are
sailing with you for pleasure to obey orders or respect rules if you do
not obey and respect them yourself. This is the prime fault with many
young skippers. If you shape your own conduct according to your rules
you will find that your crew, if they are any good, will do likewise.
But do not make foolish rules or issue unnecessary orders; the less you
restrict and domineer the better you will get along with your hands.
INJURY TO SAILS:
Sails are most often torn or split through carelessness in tieing in
the points when reefing, or not untieing when shaking out. The first
man will tie his points hard, the second slack, consequently bringing
undue strain on one cloth. All the points should be tied with as nearly
equal strain as possible. Another cause is allowing sails to fall and
lie over pointed things, like oarlocks, anchor stocks and belaying
pins. Somebody steps or hauls on the sail and the point goes through.
MENDING SAILS:
If you have a sister, or know somebody else’s sister, get her to show
you how they herringbone or darn a rent, such as they frequently have
in their clothes. This knowledge will enable you to mend a rent in your
sail, and perhaps save the canvas from being torn to pieces. A small
hole in a sail can be temporarily mended with court plaster. If the
sail rends and starts to split up the cloth put in a safety pin at top
and bottom of tear until you can get at it with a needle. Always carry
a spare yard or two of canvas when cruising, as it will frequently come
in handy for mending and other purposes.
KNOTTING AND SPLICING:
Every young yachtsman should learn to make the simple knots and
splices. Nothing looks worse than to see on a boat a lot of rigging
that is knotted or fastened together in a lubberly fashion. There is no
need of learning the fancy knots, unless you want to, but you should
know how to make the following knots, etc.:
Square or reef knot,
Figure eight,
Overhand,
Fisherman’s bend,
Carrick bend,
Clove hitch,
Half and whole hitch,
Bowline,
Bowline-on-a-bight,
Sheet-bend,
Rolling hitch,
Wall and crown,
Sheep-shank,
Short splice,
Sailmaker’s splice,
Cut splice,
Eye splice,
Whipping, common,
Whipping, Spanish,
Serving,
Mousing,
Plain, stitching,
Herringboning.
WASHING DOWN:
A boat’s deck and cockpit should be thoroughly washed at least once
a day. Nothing looks worse than a dirty deck. Wooden decks should be
washed before the heat of the day gets on them: Canvas decks can be
scrubbed at any time. If on salt water, always take advantage of a rain
and give your decks a good hard scrubbing to get the salt off. If you
have a crew, teach them to wash down the first thing every morning, and
see that they do it
KEEPING CLEAN BELOW:
The first lesson to learn on a yacht, and the first to teach your crew,
is that there is a place for everything, and that everything must be
kept in its place. If they take anything out to use make them put it
back at once in its place just as soon as they are done with it. Make
every man keep his berth tidy, his clothes put away, and his bedding
properly aired and folded. Teach them not to throw cigarette butts,
tobacco and match sticks on the floor, and to spit overboard and not on
the deck or in the cockpit. Don’t leave dirty dishes about. Keep your
cabin just as tidy as you do your deck.
TOOL BOX:
Every yacht should carry a simple kit of tools with them. You can
always make temporary repairs, and sometimes save yourself expense,
worry and toil. Have a box for them where they can be easily got at.
You don’t want fine tools, as they will soon be ruined by the dampness.
The following is a list of what is necessary for a cruising boat:
Hatchet,
Monkey wrench,
Small saw,
Cold chisel,
Brace and bits,
Screw driver,
Marline spike,
Small vice,
Wire nippers,
Grommet set,
Sail needle,
Sail hook,
Twine,
Wax,
Fid,
Piece of sheet copper,
Piece of sheet lead,
Piece of sheet rubber,
Copper tacks,
Screws,
Nails,
Some galv. iron rod,
Wire,
Screw eyes.
BOS’N STORES:
Don’t have more than two or three sizes of rope in your rig, if you can
help it, and carry a spare coil of a few fathoms of each. Also, have
spare fittings, so if anything carries away you can replace it. Here is
a short list:
Blocks,
Shackles,
Pins for same,
Cleats,
Rope,
Marline,
Hambroline,
Canvas,
Lacing,
Paint,
Varnish.
PUMP:
Every yacht, no matter of what size, should have a good pump fitted to
draw from the lowest part of the bilge. If a full-decked cabin boat,
have the pump put in through the deck, and not through the cockpit
floor. Builders like to put it in the latter place, as the work is
easier. In consequence of its being there the dirty water is pumped
into the pit and makes it wet and nasty. In an open centerboard boat
put the pump at the after end of the trunk and pump into it. Keep the
pump well clean. If you do not use the pump daily, to keep the leather
on the sucker in good condition wrap it about with an oiled rag. A
small portable pump is very useful to completely dry out the bilges.
PUMPING:
If the boat has a leak, make it a practice to try the pump every
morning before washing down. Keep the water out of her, so that when
she heels down it won’t run up into the lockers and wet things. A good
knockdown will distribute a few buckets of bilge water around a cabin
in a way to make things damp for weeks to come.
BALLAST:
If you use inside ballast of any kind do not lump it in heaps along the
keel; spread it out as much as possible over the bottom. It should be
spaced in the middle half of the boat, leaving the ends empty. No rule
can be laid down for placing weight in a boat; you must experiment and
find out how much and where to put it. Remember, that too much ballast
is as bad as too little.
BALLAST, KINDS OF:
Inside ballast is either lead, iron or stone. There is no question but
what stone is the best ballast, so far as the effect is concerned, and
lead the worst. Lead has the advantage of being always worth its money,
second-hand lead bringing nearly the same price as new. Old iron is of
little or no value. Lead stows snugly and is clean. Iron is very dirty,
and the rust from it is a nuisance. The disadvantage of stone is that
you cannot secure it. Inside ballast should be secured so as not to
shift in case the vessel gets on her side. Heavy ballast should rest on
the frame and not on the plank.
BILGES:
The cause of many yachts smelling below is dirty bilges. They are never
properly cleaned from one season to the other. Before putting the yacht
in commission the bilges should be thoroughly searched, cleaned and
washed out, all the limbers poked open so as to allow the water to flow
to the pump well. If the boat does not leak enough to keep her bilges
sweet, water should be poured in at least once a week and pumped out
again. Don’t sweep dirt or other rubbish into the bilge; it is liable
to get into the pump and choke it.
GASOLENE PIPES: