A JOURNEY IN NORTHERN VIRGINIA
Thomas Wallcutt of Massachusetts served through the Revolutionary War as
hospital steward and received in payment therefor one share in the Ohio
Company.[21] He went out to Marietta in 1790, and returned eastward by
the half-known Virginia route. His _Journal_[22] forms an interesting
chapter of travel on American pioneer roads:
"Monday, 8 March, 1790.[23] Pleasant, clear, cold, and high winds. We
were up before sunrise, and got some hot breakfast, coffee and toast;
and Captain Prince, Mr. Moody, Mr. Skinner, Captain Mills and brother,
Mr. Bent, &c., accompanied us over the river[24] to Sargent's or
Williams's, and took leave of us about nine o'clock, and we proceeded on
our journey. We had gone but a little way when we found the path[25] so
blind that we could not proceed with certainty, and I was obliged to go
back and get a young man to come and show us the way. When we had got
back to our companions again, they had found the road, and we walked
twenty miles this day. Weather raw, chilly, and a little snow. The
country after about five or six miles from the Ohio is very broken and
uneven, with high and sharp hills.
"Tuesday, 9 March, 1790. The weather for the most part of the day
pleasant, but cold winds, northerly. The country very rough, the hills
high and sharp.[26] One third of the road must go over and on the
ridges, and another third through the valleys. We walked this day about
twenty-three or twenty-four miles, and slept near the forty-fourth or
forty-fifth mile tree.
"Wednesday, 10 March, 1790. Weather raw and moist. To-day we crossed
several of the large creeks and waters that fall into the Ohio. This
occasioned a loss of much time, waiting for the horse to come over for
each one, which he did as regularly as a man would. The country much the
same, but rather better to-day, except that a great deal of the road
runs along through the streams, and down the streams such a length with
the many bridges that will be wanted, that it will be a vast expense,
besides the risk and damage of being carried away every year by the
floods. We had so much trouble in crossing these streams that at last we
forded on foot. One of the largest in particular, after we had rode it
several times, we waded it four or five times almost knee-deep, and
after that a number of times on logs, or otherwise, without going in
water. Two of the streams, I doubt not, we crossed as often as twenty
times each. We walked this day about fifteen miles.
"Thursday, 11 March, 1790. With much fatigue and pain in my left leg, we
walked about fifteen miles to-day. They all walked better than I, and
had got to Carpenter's and had done their dinner about two o'clock when
I arrived. They appear to be good farmers and good livers, have a good
house, and seem very clever people. Mr. C. is gone down the country.
They have been a frontier here for fifteen years, and have several times
been obliged to move away. I got a dish of coffee and meat for dinner,
and paid ninepence each, for the doctor and me. We set off, and crossed
the west branch of the Monongahela over to Clarksburgh. The doctor paid
his own ferriage. We went to Major Robinson's, and had tea and meat,
&c., for supper. I paid ninepence each, for the doctor and me. Weather
dull and unpleasant, as yesterday.
"Friday, 12 March, 1790. Weather good and pleasant to-day. We set off
before sunrise and got a little out of our road into the Morgantown
road, but soon got right again. We breakfasted at Webb's mill, a good
house and clever folks. Had coffee, meat, &c.; paid sixpence each, for
me and the doctor. Lodged at Wickware's, who says he is a Yankee, but
is a very disagreeable man for any country, rough and ugly, and he is
very dear. I paid one shilling apiece for the doctor's and my supper,
upon some tea made of mountain birch, perhaps black birch, stewed
pumpkin, and sodden meat. Appetite supplies all deficiencies.
"Saturday, 13 March, 1790. Beautiful weather all day. Set off not so
early this morning as yesterday. The doctor paid his ferriage himself.
Mr. Moore, a traveller toward his home in Dunker's Bottom, Fayette
County, Pennsylvania, [?] set out with us. He seems a very mild,
good-natured, obliging old gentleman, and lent me his horse to ride
about two miles, while he drove his pair of steers on foot. The doctor
and I being both excessively fatigued, he with a pain in his knee, and
mine in my left leg, but shifting about, were unable to keep up with our
company, and fell much behind them. Met Mr. Carpenter on his return
home. He appears to be a very clever man. When we had come to Field's, I
found Mr. Dodge had left his horse for us to ride, and to help us along,
which we could not have done without. We got a dish of tea without
milk, some dried smoked meat and hominy for dinner; and from about three
o'clock to nine at night, got to Ramsay's. Seven miles of our way were
through a new blazed path where they propose to cut a new road. We got
out of this in good season, at sundown or before dark, into the wagon
road, and forded Cheat River on our horses. Tea, meat, &c., for supper.
Old Simpson and Horton, a constable, had a terrible scuffle here this
evening.
"Lord's Day, 14 March, 1790. Mr. Dodge is hurrying to go away again. I
tell him I must rest to-day. I have not written anything worth mention
in my journal since I set out, until to-day, and so must do it from
memory. I want to shave a beard seven days old, and change a shirt about
a fortnight dirty; and my fatigue makes rest absolutely necessary. So
take my rest this day, whether he has a mind to go or stay with us. Eat
very hearty of hominy or boiled corn with milk for breakfast, and boiled
smoked beef and pork for dinner, with turnips. After dinner shaved and
shirted me, which took till near night, it being a dark house, without a
bit of window, as indeed there is scarce a house on this road that has
any.
"Monday, 15 March, 1790. Waited and got some tea for breakfast, before
we set out. Settled with Ramsay, and paid him 9_d._ per meal, for five
meals, and half-pint whiskey 6_d._ The whole came to eight shillings.
Weather very pleasant most of the day. We walked to Brien's about
half-past six o'clock, which they call twenty-four miles. We eat a
little fried salt pork and bit of venison at Friends',[27] and then
crossed the great Youghiogeny. About two miles further on, we crossed
the little _ditto_ at Boyles's.... We walked about or near an hour after
dark, and were very agreeably surprised to find ourselves at Brien's
instead of Stackpole's, which is four miles further than we expected.
Eat a bit of Indian bread, and the woman gave us each about half a pint
of milk to drink, which was all our supper.
"Tuesday, 16 March, 1790. We were up this morning, and away about or
before sunrise, and ascended the backbone of the Alleghany, and got
breakfast at Williams's. I cannot keep up with my company. It took me
till dark to get to Davis's. Messers. Dodge and Proctor had gone on
before us about three miles to Dawson's. We got some bread and butter
and milk for supper, and drank a quart of cider. Mr. Davis was
originally from Ashford, county of Windham, Connecticut; has been many
years settled in this country; has married twice, and got many children.
His cider in a brown mug seemed more like home than any thing I have met
with.
"Wednesday, 17 March. We were up this morning before day, and were set
off before it was cleverly light. Got to Dawson's, three miles, where
Messers. D. & P. lodged, and got some tea for breakfast, and set off in
good season, the doctor and I falling behind. As it is very miry,
fatiguing walking, and rainy, which makes extremely painful walking in
the clay and mud, we could not keep up with D. We stopped about a mile
and a half from the Methodist meeting near the cross roads at Cressops,
and four from Cumberland, and got some fried meat and eggs, milk,
butter, &c., for dinner, which was a half pistareen each. After dinner
the doctor and I walked into Cumberland village about three o'clock, and
put up at Herman Stitcher's or Stidger's. We called for two mugs of
cider, and got tea, bread and butter, and a boiled leg of fresh young
pork for supper. The upper part of the county of Washington has lately
been made a separate county, and called Alleghany, as it extends over
part of that mountain, and reaches to the extreme boundary of Maryland.
The courts, it is expected, will be fixed and held at this place,
Cumberland, which will probably increase its growth, as it thrives
pretty fast already. We supped and breakfasted here; paid 2_s._ for
each, the doctor and me. Pleasant fine weather this day. My feet
exceedingly sore, aching, throbbing, and beating. I cannot walk up with
my company.
"Thursday, 18 March. Paid Mr. Dodge 6_s._ advance. A very fine day. We
stayed and got breakfast at Stitcher's, and walked from about eight
o'clock to twelve, to Old Town, and dined at Jacob's, and then walked to
Dakins's to lodge, where we got a dish of Indian or some other home
coffee, with a fry of chicken and other meat for supper. This is the
first meal I have paid a shilling L. M. for. The country very much
broken and hilly, sharp high ridges, and a great deal of pine. About ...
miles from Old Town, the north and south branches of the Potomac join.
We walked twenty-five miles to-day.
"Friday, 19 March, 1790. Very fine weather again to-day. We walked
twenty-four miles to McFarren's in Hancock, and arrived there, sun about
half an hour high. McFarren says this town has been settled about ten or
twelve years, and is called for the man who laid it out or owned it, and
not after Governor Hancock. It is a small but growing place of about
twenty or thirty houses, near the bank of the Potomac, thirty-five miles
below Old Town, and five below Fort Cumberland; twenty-four above
Williamsport, and ninety-five above Georgetown. We slept at McFarren's,
a so-so house. He insisted on our sleeping in beds, and would not
permit sleeping on the floors. We all put our feet in soak in warm water
this evening. It was recommended to us by somebody on the road, and I
think they feel the better for it.
"Saturday, 20 March. A very fine day again. We have had remarkably fine
weather on this journey hitherto. But two days we had any rain, and then
but little. We stayed and got breakfast at McFarren's, and set out about
eight o'clock, and walked about twenty-one miles this day to Thompson's,
about half a mile from Buchanan's in the Cove Gap in the North Mountain.
My feet do not feel quite so bad this day, as they have some days. I
expect they are growing stronger and fitter for walking every day,
though it has cost me a great deal of pain, throbbing, beating, and
aching to bring them to it. It seems the warm water last night did me
some good.
"Lord's Day, 21 March, 1790. Up and away before sunrise, and walked to
breakfast to McCracken's. He has been an officer in the continental
army. I find it will not do for me to try any longer to keep up with my
company, and as they propose going through Reading, and we through
Philadelphia, we must part to-night or to-morrow. I conclude to try
another seven miles, and if I cannot keep up, we part at Semple's, the
next stage. They got to Semple's before me, and waited for me. I
conclude to stay and dine here, and part with Messrs. Proctor and Dodge.
I am so dirty; my beard the ninth day old, and my shirt the time worn,
that I cannot with any decency or comfort put off the cleaning any
longer. I again overhauled the letters, as I had for security and care
taken all into my saddle-bags. I sorted them and gave Mr. Dodge his,
with what lay more direct in his way to deliver, and took some from him
for Boston and my route.
"I paid Mr. Dodge three shillings more in addition to six shillings I
had paid him before at the Widow Carrel's, according to our agreement at
twelve shillings to Philadelphia; and as we had gone together and he had
carried our packs three hundred miles (wanting two), it was near the
matter. He supposed I should do right to give him a shilling more. I
told him as I had agreed with him at the rate of fifty pounds, when
they did not weigh above thirty-five, and at the rate of going up to
Pitt instead of returning, which is but half price, I thought it was a
generous price, and paid him accordingly as by agreement. We wished each
other a good journey, and Mr. Proctor, the doctor, and I drank a cup of
cider together. When we had got cleaned, a wagoner came along very
luckily, and dined with us, and going our way, we put our packs in his
wagon, and rode some to help. We gave him a quarter of a dollar for this
half day and tomorrow. We got to Carlisle in the evening and put up with
Adam at Lutz's.
"This Carlisle is said to be extremely bad in wet weather. It probably
is nearly & quite as bad as Pittsburg, Marietta, Albany. I went to
Lutz's because Adam puts up there, he being of his nation, but it is a
miserable house, and Adam says he is sorry he carried us there. The
victuals are good, but they are dirty, rough, impolite. We supped on
bread and milk, and Lutz would insist on our sleeping in a bed and not
on the floor; so we did so.
"Tuesday, 23 March, 1790. A pleasant day and the roads very much dried,
so that the travelling is now comfortable. We dined at Callender's in
more fashion than since I left home. Adam stopped at Simpson's so long
that it was dark when we got over the river to Chambers's, where we
stopped another half hour. Set off about seven o'clock, and got to
Foot's about eleven. All abed, but Adam got us a bit of bread and
butter, and made us a fire in the stove, and we lay on the floor.
"Wednesday, 24 March, 1790. Old Foot is a crabbed.... He has been
scolding and swearing at Adam all this morning about something that I
cannot understand. It has rained last night, and the roads are again
intolerable. Adam says he cannot go again until his father says the
word, and that may not be this two or three days. But we cannot go and
carry our packs on our backs now, the roads are so bad, and we should
gain nothing to walk, but spend our strength to little or no purpose. We
must wait for a wagon to go along our way, and join it, or wait for the
roads to grow better.
"Carried our dirty things to wash; two shirts, two pairs stockings, and
one handkerchief for me; two shirts, two pair stockings, and one pair
trowsers for the doctor. Went to several places to look for shoes for
the doctor. He could not fit himself at the shoemakers, and bought a
pair in a store for 8_s._ 4_d._ Pennsylvania, or 6_s._ 8_d._ our
currency. He went to Henry Moore's, the sign of the two Highlanders. I
drank a quart of beer and dined. Old Foot is a supervisor, and is gone
to Harrisburg to-day, to settle some of his business.
"Thursday, 25 March, 1790. The sun rises and shines out so bright to-day
that I am in hopes the roads will be better, at least, when we go. Old
Foot could not finish his business yesterday, and is gone again to-day.
He is uncertain when he shall send Adam forward to Philadelphia, perhaps
not until Monday. It will not do for us to stay, if we can somehow get
along sooner. Time hangs heavy on our hands, but we do what we can to
kill it. The doctor and I went down to Moore's and dined together, which
was a shilling L. M. apiece. We then came back to Foot's and drank a
pint of cider-royal together. The house is for the most part of the day
filled with Germans, who talk much, but we cannot understand them. We
have coffee and toast, or meat for breakfast, and mush and milk for
supper. Our time is spent in the most irksome manner possible; eating
and drinking, and sleeping and yawning, and attending to the
conversation of these Dutch. In the evening the house is crowded with
the neighbors, &c., and for the ... Old Foot says, and Adam too, that he
will not go till Monday. This is very discouraging.
"Friday, 26 March, 1790. A very dull prospect to-day. It rained very
hard in the night, and continues to rain this morning. No wagons are
passing, and none coming that we can hear of. We have no prospect now
but to stay and go with Adam on Monday. We stay at home to-day and
murder our time. We read McFingal, or Ballads, or whatever we can pick
up. We had coffee and toast and fresh fried veal for breakfast, and ate
heartily, and so we eat no dinner. The doctor goes out and buys us 8_d._
worth of cakes, and we get a half-pint of whiskey, which makes us a
little less sad. In comes a man to inquire news, &c., of two men from
Muskingum. He had heard Thompson's report, which had made so much noise
and disquiet all through the country. He had three Harrisburg papers
with him, which give us a little relief in our dull and unwelcome
situation. At dark there come in two men with a wagon and want lodging,
&c. They stay this night, and with them we find an opportunity of going
forward as far as Lancaster, which we are determined to embrace.
"Saturday, 27 March, 1790. We stay and get a good breakfast before we
set out, and agree to give Mr. Bailey 2_s._ L. M. for carrying our
baggage. This is higher than anything it has cost us on the road in
proportion, but we cannot help it. It is better than to waste so much
time in a tavern. It rains steadily, and the road is all mush and water.
Before I get on a hundred rods I am half-leg deep in mire. Set off about
eight o'clock, and overtook the wagon about two miles ahead. However, it
clears off before night, and the sun shines warm, and the roads mend
fast. We made a stay in Elizabethtown about two hours to feed and rest.
The doctor and I had two quarts of beer and some gingerbread and
buckwheat cakes for dinner. We got to Colonel Pedens to lodge, which is
eighteen miles through an intolerable bad road, to-day. (Elizabethtown,
about fifty houses; Middletown, about an hundred houses.) We paid our
landlady this evening, as we are to start so early in the morning it
would not do to wait till the usual time of getting up to pay then, and
we have got nine miles to go to reach Lancaster.
"Lord's Day, 28 March, 1790. We started this morning at day dawn, and
got to ---- at the Black Horse, four and a half miles to breakfast. The
wagon went by us, and fed at Shoop's. I left the doctor with them and to
take care of the things, and walked into the town before them. Stopped
at Gross's, the Spread Eagle, and left word for the doctor, which they
never told him. I heard the bell ring for church just as I got here,
which made me go into town after waiting some time for them. Took leave
of Mr. Bailey, &c. I went to the English Episcopal Church, and then
went back to look for the doctor, and he looking for me; we were some
time in chase, and missed each other. Found we could not get served at
the Angel, so took our baggage and walked down to Doersh's, who keeps
the stage. Got dinner here. Shaved, shirted, put on my boots, and went
out into town. Stopped at the court-house and heard a Methodist. Walked
further about; stopped and looked into the Catholic chapel, and talked
with the priest. Looked into the churches, such as I could, and returned
to tea at sundown. Spent the remainder of the time till bed reading
newspapers. Washed my feet and went to bed just before ten.
"Monday, 29 March, 1790. After breakfast the doctor and I took a ramble
about the town, to look at it and to inquire if we could find any wagon
going to Philadelphia, that we can get our baggage carried. The most
likely place we can hear of is to go to the Creek, about a mile from
town. Immediately after our walk we settled and paid, and set out at
just eleven o'clock. Paid toll over Conestoga bridge, and stopped at
Locher's, at the Indian King, two miles from Lancaster, and drank a
quart of beer. It was not good. Dined at Blesser's, on a cold meal,
which was 8_d._ L. M. apiece. Got to Hamilton's at Salsbury, a very good
house; nineteen miles. This is more than I expected when I set out at
eleven o'clock. A very good supper; rye mush and milk, cold corn beef,
and apple pie on the table. But 8_d._ L. M. for supper and lodging
apiece. We have had very good weather for travelling, and the roads are
drying fast. In hopes that we shall find some wagon going on the
Philadelphia road, that we may get our packs carried part of the way.
"Tuesday, 30 March, 1790. We walked twenty-four miles this day, that is,
from Hamilton's to Fahnstock's. Very pleasant weather, suitable for
travelling; not too warm nor too cold. My feet very tender and sore, but
we keep along steady. Got to Fahnstock's, Admiral Warren, about eight
o'clock. Got some bread and milk for supper. The doctor had nothing but
a pint of cider for his supper. We slept well, considering my being
excessively fatigued. The post overtook us.
"Wednesday, 31 March. Stayed to breakfast this morning, which was very
good, but I do not like the practice, at least I do not seem to need
eating meat with breakfast every morning. I sometimes eat it two or
three times a day because it is set before me, and it is the fashion to
have meat always on the table. We dined about seven miles from
Philadelphia; crossed the Schuylkill about sunset, and walked into town
about dark. Crossed the Schuylkill over the floating bridge, and paid
our toll, 1_d._ Pennsylvania each."