TO make the tool cabinet complete there must be hinges and a lock.
These you can get at a hardware store. Ask for hinges for three
quarters inch wood, and about three inches long; you will need three
hinges, and the screws to fit the holes. Brass hinges are best, and
look neater and more tasteful than iron, though iron will do. If the
screws don’t come with the hinges, then look out some that will fit,
from your stock on hand.
The first thing for you to settle is which way you wish the cabinet to
open; i. e. to the right as in the diagram, or to the left as might
be if the only place for your cabinet happened to be a corner which
would not admit of opening to the right. Suppose the door is to open
to the right. Find the middle of the front edge of the right hand side
of _cabinet_. Mark across the edge, then measure one and one half
inches _each way_ from that line and mark. This is the place for the
middle hinge. Five inches from the lower corner on the same side, and
five inches from the upper corner measure and mark; then measure three
inches further from these last lines and mark; these are for upper and
lower hinges. In these three spaces, so marked, cut out rectangles as
deep as the thickness of one wing of the hinge.
Repeat these measurements, markings and cuttings on the _left_ hand
side of cover or door. Be careful in measuring so that the two halves
of the cabinet will come together and exactly match.
Now to put on the hinges: Take one hinge, shut it together _tight_,
so as to be sure you are folding it the right way; then open till the
wings are at right angles. Lay _left_ wing into space cut for it in
_right_ side of cabinet. Take care to have the wing fit neatly, letting
the round edge of hinge project. Screw firmly into place. Put all the
hinges in place on the cabinet before beginning on the cover.
Now lay the cabinet down flat on your workbench, or on the floor. Put
the cover down beside it, with a bit of board or blocks underneath
thick enough to bring the hinge places of the door on a level with
those of the cabinet. Then fasten the _right_ hand wings of hinges into
the places prepared on the _left_ side of door. Be careful, as before,
to have the round part of hinge project so that it will work freely and
have the _wings flush_ with inside of cabinet and door.
When open, there will be a narrow space between the door and cabinet,
but when closed they will fit tight.
Now for a fastening: If you simply wish to keep the cabinet closed when
not in use, you can put a hook on the door, the eye on the cabinet.
If however you wish to lock up your tools for safe keeping, you must
invest in a good lock and key. The best sort for your purpose is what
is called a chest-lock. (_Fig. 1._) They come in various sizes, so I
can’t give exact measurements. It must of course go in the middle of
the side opposite the hinges.
[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
As you look at the lock you will see that one face is smooth, and the
other side, where you find the keyhole, is irregular. This irregular
part is the one that sets into the wood. From the inside of cabinet
(opposite the middle hinge) cut a place to correspond in size with
the lock so that it will fit neatly. The opening for the key must of
course be cut through on to the outside of cabinet. Be careful to do
this neatly and cut out no more than is needful for the key to pass in
freely.
By and by, on a bit of nicer work, I will tell you how to put on a
scutcheon to guard the keyhole, but it isn’t necessary for this. The
other part of the lock which has the tongue, or tongues, is fitted
into the door of the cabinet in the same way; the tongues of course
projecting from the edge of the side. Be careful to have them come
exactly opposite the openings for them in the cabinet side. _You cannot
be too exact in carpentry._ The next thing is to fasten the cabinet
securely against the wall. Of course you can stand it on the end of
your bench, but it is better on the wall.
You will need four strips of brass four inches long, one inch wide, and
about one eighth thick, with four holes for screws bored in each piece.
Two of these go on the top corners, and two on the lower corners
of cabinet. Put them on so that the screws will go through into the
inch-thick side of cabinet, not merely into the thinner back. Half the
length of the brass piece with two holes must project above on the
upper corners, and below on lower corners. (_Fig. 2._)
[Illustration: FIG. 2.]
You will want some one to hold the cabinet steady for you while you
secure it with long heavy screws, two at each corner. Of course your
tools are not in the cabinet while you are at work upon it.
One word of caution: If the cabinet is to go in a corner, leave a few
inches (i. e. the thickness of the door) measured outside between the
wall and hinges, or you’ll find you can’t open the door.
If you have carefully followed all the directions, you have now a good,
plain, serviceable tool cabinet.
If you would like to stain it, which would improve the looks, I will
try to tell you how. You must not get discouraged if the first attempt
doesn’t turn out very well, for one must practise even to stain well;
but the cabinet is a good thing to start with. Of course the staining
is easier done before the cabinet is hung; but a neat workman can do
it on the wall.
First determine the color you wish your stain to be. I should say black
walnut, as it is the easiest to put on, and you will not be likely to
tire of it. The quantities I give will do more than the cabinet; but if
stoppered tight will keep for future use, and for very small quantities
you have to pay exorbitant prices.
I haven’t much faith in home-made stains; they cost about as much, and
are not very satisfactory. At any oil or paint shop, get a quart of
stain, which will cost forty or fifty cents; one fourth pound _clear_
glue for sizing—this ought not to be more than eight or nine cents;
one quart nice varnish (what is called _inside_ coach varnish is the
best), this will cost about seventy-five cents; at same time get a
small piece of putty, same color as the stain; the man at the paint
shop where you get your stain, will color the putty for you. With this
colored putty fill up all holes made by nail heads or screws.
If you are on good terms with a painter, he will likely enough lend you
a couple of brushes. If you have to buy them, get one large and one
small, costing from fifty to seventy-five cents.
See that the surface of the cabinet is free from dust; to make sure,
wipe inside and out with soft cloth. Stir the stain up thoroughly from
the bottom of the can with a small stick; repeat this frequently,
otherwise your stain will not be even colored.
With the large brush put on one coat of stain, remembering always to
draw the brush in _one direction_ and _with the grain_ of the wood.
Put on as evenly as possible; always pat and press the brush on the
side of the can so it will not drip, otherwise your stain will be
streaky. Let this dry thoroughly for half a day where no dust is
flying. Prepare the size by melting glue in warm water, add boiling
water till thin and smooth, then add a spoonful of lime water.
Clean the stain brush in warm water and use it for the size; one coat
put on evenly so as to cover every part stained; clean your brush again
in warm water. Next day put on the varnish; this requires especial
care. It must be a _thin_, _even_ coat if you wish to have a creditable
job. It is worth taking pains. It ought to have a day or two to dry in
a place where no dust is flying.
If you are in a hurry, you can use shellac, which dries almost
instantly; but for this very reason, is much harder to put on well. I
always prefer the coach varnish.
The small brush is handy for the shelves and corners.
Make a neat job, and don’t let the size or the varnish get into lumps
in the corners.