There is a great desert in the interior of North America. It is almost
as large as the famous Saara of Africa. It is fifteen hundred miles
long, and a thousand wide. Now, if it were of a regular shape--that is
to say, a parallelogram--you could at once compute its area, by
multiplying the length upon the breadth; and you would obtain one
million and a half for the result--one million and a half of square
miles. But its outlines are as yet very imperfectly known; and although
it is fully fifteen hundred miles long, and in some places a thousand in
breadth, its surface-extent is probably not over one million of square
miles, or twenty-five times the size of England. Fancy a desert
twenty-five times as big as all England! Do you not think that it has
received a most appropriate name when it is called the _Great American
Desert_?
Now, my young friend, what do you understand by a desert? I think I can
guess. When you read or hear of a desert, you think of a vast level
plain, covered with sand, and without trees, or grass, or _any_ kind of
vegetation. You think, also, of this sand being blown about in thick
yellow clouds, and no water to be met with in any direction. This is
your idea of a desert, is it not? Well, it is not altogether the
correct one. It is true that in almost every desert there are these
sandy plains, yet are there other parts of its surface of a far
different character, equally deserving the name of _desert_. Although
the interior of the great Saara has not been fully explored, enough is
known of it to prove that it contains large tracts of mountainous and
hilly country, with rocks and valleys, lakes, rivers, and springs.
There are, also, fertile spots, at wide distances from each other,
covered with trees, and shrubs, and beautiful vegetation. Some of these
spots are small, while others are of large extent, and inhabited by
independent tribes, and even whole kingdoms of people. A fertile tract
of this kind is called an oasis; and, by looking at your map, you will
perceive that there are many oases in the Saara of Africa.
Of a similar character is the Great American Desert; but its surface is
still more varied with what may be termed "geographical features."
There are plains--some of them more than a hundred miles wide--where you
can see nothing but white sand, often drifting about on the wind, and
here and there thrown into long ridges such as those made by a
snowstorm. There are other plains, equally large, where no sand
appears, but brown barren earth utterly destitute of vegetation. There
are others, again, on which grows a stunted shrub with leaves of a pale
silvery colour. In some places it grows so thickly, interlocking its
twisted and knotty branches, that a horseman can hardly ride through
among them. This shrub is the _artemisia_--a species of wild sage or
wormwood,--and the plains upon which it grows are called by the hunters,
who cross them, the _sage prairies_. Other plains are met with that
present a black aspect to the traveller. These are covered with lava,
that at some distant period of time has been vomited forth from volcanic
mountains, and now lies frozen up, and broken into small fragments like
the stones upon a new-made road. Still other plains present themselves
in the American Desert. Some are white, as if snow had fallen freshly
upon them, and yet it is not snow, but salt! Yes; pure white salt--
covering the ground six inches deep, and for fifty miles in every
direction! Others, again, have a similar appearance; but instead of
salt, you find the substance which covers them to be soda--a beautiful
efflorescence of soda!
There are mountains, too--indeed, one-half of this Desert is very
mountainous; and the great chain of the Rocky Mountains--of which you
have no doubt heard--runs sheer through it from north to south, and
divides it into two nearly equal parts. But there are other mountains
besides these; mountains of every height, and sometimes in their shape
and colour presenting very striking and singular appearance. Some of
them run for miles in horizontal ridges like the roofs of houses, and
seemingly so narrow at their tops that one might sit astride of them.
Others, again, of a conical form, stand out in the plain apart from the
rest, and look like teacups turned upside down in the middle of a table.
Then there are sharp peaks that shoot upward like needles, and others
shaped like the dome of some great cathedral--like the dome of Saint
Paul's. These mountains are of many colours. Some are dark, or
dark-green, or blue when seen from a distance. They are of this colour
when covered by forests of pine or cedar, both of which trees are found
in great plenty among the mountains of the Desert.
There are many mountains, where no trees are seen, nor any signs of
vegetation along their sides. Huge naked rocks of granite appear piled
upon each other, or jutting out over dark and frowning chasms. There
are peaks perfectly white, because they are covered with a thick mantle
of snow. These can always be seen from the greatest distance, as the
snow lying upon them all the year without melting proves them to be of
vast elevation above the level of the sea. There are other peaks almost
as white, and yet it is not with snow. They are of a milky hue, and
stunted cedar-trees may be seen clinging in seams and crevices along
their sides. These are mountains of pure limestone, or the white quartz
rock. There are mountains, again, upon which neither tree nor leaf is
to be; seen; but, in their stead, the most vivid colours of red and
green and yellow and white, appearing in stripes along their sides, as
though they had been freshly painted. These stripes mark the strata of
different coloured rocks, of which the mountains are composed. And
there are still other mountains in the Great American Desert, to startle
the traveller with their strange appearance. They are those that
glitter with the mica and selenite. These, when seen from a distance
flashing under the sun, look as though they were mountains of silver and
gold!
The rivers, too. Strange rivers are they. Some run over broad shallow
beds of bright sand. Large rivers--hundreds of yards in width, with
sparkling waters. Follow them down their course. What do you find?
Instead of growing larger, like the rivers of your own land, they become
less and less, until at length their waters sink into the sands, and you
see nothing but the dry channel for miles after miles! Go still farther
down, and again the water appears, and increases in volume, until--
thousands of miles from the sea--large ships can float upon their bosom.
Such are the Arkansas and the Platte.
There are other rivers that run between bleak, rocky banks--banks a
thousand feet high, whose bald, naked "bluffs" frown at each other
across the deep chasm, in the bottom of which roars the troubled water.
Often these banks extend for hundreds of miles, so steep at all points
that one cannot go down to the bed of their stream; and often--often--
the traveller has perished with thirst, while the roar of their water
was sounding in his ears! Such are the Colorado and the Snake.
Still others go sweeping through the broad plains, tearing up the clay
with their mighty floods, and year after year changing their channels,
until they are sometimes an hundred miles from their ancient beds. Here
they are found gurgling for many leagues under ground--under vast rafts
formed by the trees which they have borne downward in their current.
There you find them winding by a thousand loops like the sinuosities of
a great serpent, rolling sluggishly along, with waters red and turbid as
though they were rivers of blood! Such are the Brazos and the Red
River.
Strange rivers are they that struggle through the mountains, and
valleys, and plateau-lands of the Great American Desert.
Not less strange are its lakes. Some lie in the deep recesses of hills
that dip down so steeply you cannot reach their shores; while the
mountains around them are so bleak and naked, that not even a bird ever
wings its flight across their silent waters. Other lakes are seen in
broad, barren plains; and yet, a few years after, the traveller finds
them not--they have dried up and disappeared. Some are fresh, with
waters like crystal--others brackish and muddy--while many of them are
more salt than the ocean itself.
In this Desert there are springs--springs of soda and sulphur, and salt
waters; and others so hot that they boil up as in a great caldron, and
you could not dip your finger into them without scalding it.
There are vast caves piercing the sides of the mountains, and deep
chasms opening into the plains--some of them so deep, that you might
fancy mountains had been scooped out to form them. They are called
"barrancas." There are precipices rising straight up from the plains--
thousands of feet in height--and steep as a wall; and through the
mountains themselves you may see great clefts cut by the rivers, as
though they had been tunnelled and their tops had fallen in. They are
called "canons." All these singular formations mark the wild region of
the Great American Desert.
It has its denizens. There are oases in it; some of them large, and
settled by civilised men. One of these is the country of New Mexico,
containing many towns, and 100,000 inhabitants. These are of the
Spanish and mixed Indian races. Another oasis is the country around the
Great Salt and Utah Lakes. Here is also a settlement, established in
1846. Its people are Americans and Englishmen. They are the Mormons;
and, although they dwell hundreds of miles from any sea, they seem
likely to become a large and powerful nation of themselves.
Besides these two great oases, there are thousands of others, of all
sizes--from fifty miles in breadth, to the little spot of a _few_ acres,
formed by the fertilising waters of some gurgling spring. Many of these
are without inhabitants. In others, again, dwell tribes of Indians--
some of them numerous and powerful, possessing horses and cattle; while
others are found in small groups of three or four families each,
subsisting miserably upon roots, seeds, grass, reptiles, and insects.
In addition to the two great settlements we have mentioned, and the
Indians, there is another class of men scattered over this region.
These are white men--hunters and trappers. They subsist by trapping the
beaver, and hunting the buffalo and other animals. Their life is one
continued scene of peril, both from the wild animals which they
encounter in their lonely excursions, and the hostile Indians with whom
they come in contact. These men procure the furs of the beaver, the
otter, the musk-rat, the marten, the ermine, the lynx, the fox, and the
skins of many other animals. This is their business, and by this they
live. There are forts, or trading posts--established by adventurous
merchants--at long distances from each other; and at these forts the
trappers exchange their furs for food, clothing, and for the necessary
implements of their perilous calling.
There is another class of men who traverse the Great Desert. For many
years there has been a commerce carried on between the oasis of New
Mexico and the United States. This commerce employs a considerable
amount of capital, and a great number of men--principally Americans.
The goods transported in large wagons drawn by mules or oxen; and a
train of these wagons is called a "caravan." Other caravans--Spanish
ones--cross the western wing of the Desert, from Sonora to California,
and thence to New Mexico. Thus, you see, the American Desert has its
caravans as well as the Saara of Africa.
These caravans travel for hundreds of miles through countries in which
there are no inhabitants, except the scattered and roving bands of
Indians; and there are many parts on their routes so sterile, that not
even Indians can exist there.
The caravans, however, usually follow a track which is known, and where
grass and water may be found at certain seasons of the year. There are
several of these tracks, or, as they are called, "trails," that cross
from the frontier settlements of the United States to those of New
Mexico. Between one and another of these trails, however, stretch vast
regions of desert country--entirely unexplored and unknown--and many
fertile spots exist, that have never been trodden by the foot of man.
Such, then, my young friend, is a rough sketch of some of the more
prominent features of the Great American Desert.
Let me conduct you into it, and show you--from a nearer view--some of
its wild but interesting aspects. I shall not show you the wildest of
them, lest they might terrify you. Fear not--I shall not lead you into
danger. Follow me.