Transcriber’s Notes
Texts printed in italics in the source document have been transcribed
_between underscores_. Small capitals have been replaced with ALL
CAPITALS.
More notes may be found at the end of this text.
THE BOY MECHANIC
BOOK 3
[Illustration: See Page 86]
THE
BOY MECHANIC
BOOK 3
800 THINGS FOR BOYS TO DO
HOW TO CONSTRUCT
ELECTRIC LOCOMOTIVE MODEL AND TRACK SYSTEM, BOYS’ MOTOR
CAR, PARCEL DELIVERY BICYCLE, AERIAL CABLEWAY, MINIA-
TURE TANK, SAILING CANOE, HOUSEBOAT, SUBMARINE
CAMERA, DIVING TOWER, HAMMOCKS, KITCHEN
FOR HIKERS, ICE YACHT
AND
HUNDREDS OF OTHER THINGS WHICH DELIGHT EVERY BOY
WITH 802 ILLUSTRATIONS
COPYRIGHTED, 1919, BY H. H. WINDSOR
CHICAGO
POPULAR MECHANICS CO.
PUBLISHERS
[Illustration: Fig. 1
SECTIONAL SIDE VIEW
Fig. 2
FRONT VIEW
Fig. 3
PLAN
Fig. 4
BRAKE DETAIL
Fig. 5
DETAIL OF STEERING GEAR
DETAIL OF SUPPORT C
The General Arrangement of the Parts is Shown in the Assembly Views,
Figs. 1, 2, and 3. The Brake Detail, Fig. 4, should be Considered with
Fig. 9, Shown Separately. The Detail Construction of the Frame and
Body can be Readily Understood by Referring to the Assembly Views in
Connection with Fig. 7
DETAIL OF SUPPORT D
REAR-AXLE BRACKET E
Fig. 6
Fig. 7
DETAIL OF FRAME AND BODY]
[Illustration: A Boys’ Motor Car
HOMEMADE
by P. P. Avery]
Even though the home-built “bearcat” roadster, or other favorite model,
does not compare in every detail with the luxurious manufactured
cars, it has an individuality that puts it in a class by itself. The
amateur mechanic, or the ambitious boy, who is fairly skilled with
tools, can build at least the main parts for his own small car, of
the simple, practical design shown in the sketch and detailed in the
working drawings. If necessary, he can call more skilled mechanics
to his aid. A motorcycle engine, or other small gasoline motor, is
used for the power plant. The control mechanism of the engine and the
electrical connections are similar to those of a motorcycle. They are
installed to be controlled handily from the driver’s seat. The car is
built without springs, but these may be included, if desired, or the
necessary comfort provided--in part at least--by a cushioned seat.
Strong bicycle wheels are used, the 1¹⁄₂ by 28-in. size being suitable.
The hood may be of wood, or of sheet metal, built over a frame of strap
iron. The top of the hood can be lifted off, and the entire hood can
also be removed, when repairs are to be made. The tool box on the rear
of the frame can be replaced by a larger compartment, or rack, for
transporting loads, or an extra seat for a passenger.
[Illustration: To Simplify This Small but Serviceable Motor Car for
Construction by the Young Mechanic, Only the Essential Parts are
Considered. Other Useful and Ornamental Features may be Added as the
Skill and Means of the Builder Make Possible]
The construction may be begun with the chassis and the running gear.
Fit the wheels with ⁵⁄₈-in. axles, as shown in the assembly views,
Figs. 1, 2, and 3, and detailed in Fig. 4. Fit the ends of the axles
to the hubs of the wheels, providing the threaded ends with lock nuts.
Make the wooden supports for the frame, as detailed in Fig. 6. The
axles are fastened into half-round grooves, cut in the bottoms of the
supports, and secured by iron straps, as shown in Fig. 4, at A. Make
the sidepieces for the main frame 2¹⁄₂ by 3¹⁄₄ in. thick, and 9 ft.
4 in. long, as detailed in Fig. 7. Mortise the supports through the
sidepieces, and bore the holes for the bolt fastenings and braces. Glue
the mortise-and-tenon joints before the bolts are finally secured.
Provide the bolts with washers, and lock the nuts with additional jam
nuts where needed. Keep the woodwork clean, and apply a coat of linseed
oil, so that dirt and grease cannot penetrate readily.
Finish only the supporting structure of the chassis in the preliminary
woodwork. Set the front-axle and steering-rigging supports C and D, and
adjust the spacers F between them. Bore the hole for the kingbolt, as
detailed in Fig. 6, and fit the bevel gears and the fifth wheel G, of
¹⁄₄-in. steel, into place, as shown in Fig. 5. The gear H is bolted to
the axle support. The pinion J is set on the end of a short ³⁄₄-in.
shaft. The latter passes through the support D, and is fitted with
washers and jam nuts, solidly, yet with sufficient play. A bracket, K,
of ¹⁄₄ by 1³⁄₄-in. strap iron, braces the shaft, as shown in Fig. 3.
The end of this short shaft is joined to one section of the universal
coupling, as shown, and, like the other half of the coupling, is pinned
with a ³⁄₁₆-in. riveted pin. The pinion is also pinned, and the lower
end of the kingbolt provided with a washer and nut, guarded by a cotter
pin. Suitable gears can be procured from old machinery. A satisfactory
set was obtained from an old differential of a well-known small car.
[Illustration: FIG. 8
Detail of the Motor Support: The Engine is Mounted on Reinforced Angle
Irons, and Secured by Clamps and a Supporting Band under the Crank Case]
Before fitting the steering column into place, make the dashboard, of
⁷⁄₈-in. oak, as shown in the assembly view, and in detail in Fig. 7. It
is 19¹⁄₂ in. high and 2 ft. 4 in. wide, and set on the frame and braced
to it with 4 by 4 by 1¹⁄₂-in. angle irons, ¹⁄₄ in. thick. Fit a ⁷⁄₈-in.
strip of wood around the edge of the dashboard, on the front side, as
a rest for the hood, as shown in Figs. 1 and 7, at L. A brass edging
protects the dashboard, and gives a neat appearance. Lay out carefully
the angle for the steering column, which is of ⁷⁄₈-in. shafting, so as
to be convenient for the driver. Mark the point at which it is to pass
through the dashboard, and reinforce the hole with an oak block, or an
angle flange, of iron or brass, such as is used on railings, or boat
fittings. A collar at the flange counteracts the downward pressure on
the steering post. The 12-in. steering wheel is set on the column by a
riveted pin.
The fitting of the engine may next be undertaken. The exact position
and method of setting the engine on the frame will depend on the size
and type. It should be placed as near the center as possible, to give
proper balance. The drawings show a common air-cooled motor of the
one-cylinder type. It is supported, as shown in Figs. 1 and 3 and
detailed in Fig. 8. Two iron strips, B, riveted to 1¹⁄₂ by 1¹⁄₂-in.
angle irons, extend across the main frame, and support the engine by
means of bolts and steel clamps, designed to suit the engine. Cross
strips of iron steady the engine, and the clamps are bolted to the
crank case. The center clamp is a band that passes under the crank case.
The engine is set so that the crankshaft extends across the main
frame. Other methods may be devised for special motors, and the power
transmission changed correspondingly. One end of the crankshaft is
extended beyond the right side of the frame, as shown in Fig. 3. This
extension is connected to the shaft by means of an ordinary setscrew
collar coupling. A block M, Figs. 3 and 7, is bolted to the frame, and
a section of heavy brass pipe fitted as a bearing.
The ignition and oiling systems, carburetor, and other details of
the engine control and allied mechanism, are the same as those used
on the motorcycle engine originally, fitted up as required. The oil
tank is made of a strong can, mounted on the dashboard, as shown in
Figs. 1 and 2. It is connected with the crank case by copper tubing.
A cut-out switch for the ignition system is mounted on the dashboard.
The controls used for the engine of the motorcycle can be extended with
light iron rods, and the control handles mounted on the dashboard or in
other convenient position. The throttle can be mounted on the steering
column by fitting an iron pipe around the post and mounting this pipe
in the angle flange at the dashboard. A foot accelerator may also be
used, suitable mountings and pedal connections being installed at the
floor.
In setting the gasoline tank, make only as much of the body woodwork as
is necessary to support it, as shown in Figs. 1, 3, and 7. The tank may
be made of a can, properly fitted, and heavy enough, as determined by
comparison with gasoline tanks in commercial cars. The feed is through
a copper tube, as shown in Fig. 1. A small venthole, to guard against
a vacuum in the tank, should be made in the cap. The muffler from a
motorcycle is used, fitted with a longer pipe, and suspended from the
side of the frame.
The transmission of the power from the motor shaft to the right rear
wheel is accomplished by means of a leather motorcycle belt, made by
fitting leather washers close together over a bicycle chain, oiling the
washers with neat’s-foot oil. A grooved iron pulley is fitted on the
end of the motor shaft, and a grooved pulley rim on the rear wheel, as
shown in Figs. 1 and 3, and detailed in Fig. 4. The motor is started
by means of a crank, and the belt drawn up gradually, by the action
of a clutch lever and its idler, detailed in Fig. 9. The clutch lever
is forged, as shown, and fitted with a ratchet lever, N, and ratchet
quadrant, O. The idler holds the belt to the tension desired, giving
considerable flexibility of speed.
The brake is shown in Figs. 1 and 3, and detailed in Figs. 4 and 9. The
fittings on the rear wheel and axle are made of wood, and bolted, with
a tension spring, as shown. The brake drum is supported on iron bands,
riveted to the wheel, and to the pulley rim. The brake arm is connected
to the brake wheel by a flexible wire. When the pedal is forced down,
the wire is wound on the brake wheel, thus permitting of adjustment.
The pedal is of iron and fixed on its shaft with a setscrew. An iron
pipe is used as a casing for the central shaft, the shaft carrying
the clutch lever, and the pipe carrying the brake pedal and the brake
wheel. The quadrant O is mounted on a block, fastened to the main
frame. The central shaft is carried in wooden blocks, with iron caps.
A catch of strap iron can be fitted on the floor, to engage the pedal,
and lock the brake when desired.
[Illustration: DETAIL OF BRAKE AND CLUTCH LEVER
FIG. 9
The Brake is Controlled by a Pedal, and a Clutch Lever is Mounted
on the Central Shaft, and Set by Means of a Ratchet Device and
Grip-Release Rod]
The engine is cooled by the draft through the wire-mesh opening in
the front of the hood, and through the openings under the hood. If
desirable, a wooden split pulley, with grooved rim and rope belt, may
be fitted on the extension of the engine shaft, and connected with a
two-blade metal fan, as shown in Fig. 2.
The lighting arrangement may next be installed, gas or electric lamps,
run on batteries, being used. Mudguards are desirable if the car is to
be used on muddy roads. Strong bicycle mudguards can be installed, the
guard braces being bolted on the axles. A strong pipe, with a drawbolt
passing through its length, is mounted across the front of the frame.
The body is built of ⁷⁄₈-in. stock, preferably white wood, and is 2 ft.
4 in. wide. A priming coat should be applied to the woodwork, followed
by two coats of the body color, and one or two coats of varnish.
The metal parts, except at the working surfaces, may be painted, or
enameled.
Combined Label and Cover Pad for Preserve Glasses
[Illustration]
A neat and convenient method of making a label for jars of preserves,
or similar preparations, to serve as a tab for removing the cover of
paraffin on the glass, or dish, is shown in the sketch. The tabs are
cut from tag board, notched, as shown, and bent on the dotted line.
When melted paraffin is poured on top of the material in the jar, the
tab is imbedded in it. To remove the paraffin cover intact, a pointed
knife is run around the edge, or the glass warmed sufficiently to
loosen the cover, which is then easily removed.--Arthur M. Cranford,
St. Louis, Mo.
Motor-Driven Entertainer for the Baby
[Illustration]
A contrivance that keeps the baby entertained, by the hour, at
intervals, and is a big help to a busy mother, was made in a short
time. I mounted four wooden arms on a small motor, as shown. On the
ends of two of the arms, I fixed small pin wheels, one blue and the
other yellow. The other arms hold curious-shaped pieces of bright
cardboard, one red and the other green. The driving motor is run by
one two-volt cell. The revolving colored pin wheels amuse baby in his
high chair, and the device has well repaid the little trouble of making
it.--A. H. Lange, St. Paul, Minn.
Simple Concealed Locking Device for Cases of Drawers
A simple method of providing a homemade locking device for a tier of
drawers, the use of only one keyed lock being necessary, as is common
in manufactured cases, is shown in the sketch. This is applicable to
new or old cases, where a space of about 1¹⁄₂ in. is available between
the back of the drawers and the rear of the case.
[Illustration]
The device, as detailed, consists of a locking bar sliding in guides,
screwed or fastened to the back of the case. Attached to the bar are
latches one less in number than there are drawers, and spaced apart
the distance that each drawer top is above the one below. The upper
latch is the master feature. The top of this is beveled off, forcing it
downward when the top drawer is closed. The locking bar, with the other
latches, also moves down, and the latch fingers engage the backs of the
drawers. The connecting bar is operated by a light coil spring, set on
a shouldered rod at the bottom of the bar, as detailed.
The master latch may be attached at any place on the bar, and should be
placed at the bottom drawer, for cases too high to be reached handily.
To make the device for a small space, a ¹⁄₄-in. metal rod, with metal
fingers clamped on, can be used. Metal striking plates are then put on
the back edges of the drawers.--G. A. Luers, Washington, D. C.
* * * * *
¶Steam-pipe drains should be provided at all points in the line where
water is likely to accumulate.
Support for Wagon Pole Aids in Hooking Up Team
[Illustration]
To do away with the annoyance and strain of holding up the heavy pole
of a mowing machine while fastening the yoke strap to the hames of a
restless team of horses, I equipped the pole with a drop stick, or
rest. This was made of a 30-in. piece of an old carriage shaft. One end
of the rod was hinged to the underside of the pole as shown. When the
machine is in operation, the stick is tied up out of the way by means
of a rope. This appliance also lengthens the life of the pole, and can
be used on various kinds of vehicles.--T. H. Linthicum, Annapolis,
Maryland.
String-Cutting Ring Made of Horseshoe Nail
[Illustration]
Persons having to tie a large number of packages or parcels soon find
that their fingers become sore from breaking the heavy cord in the
usual manner by wrapping it around the finger to form a cutting loop.
A handy device, that can easily be made, is a string-cutting ring
fashioned from a horseshoe nail, as shown. The point of the nail is
curled into a hook, and the inner edge of the hook is sharpened. The
string is quickly looped around the hook and cut by a slight pull on
the free end. The ring is worn on the little finger.--C. C. Spreen,
Flint, Mich.
* * * * *
¶A block of soft rubber, 1¹⁄₂ by 3 by 5 in., is useful as a pad for
sandpaper in smoothing curved surfaces.
Teakettle Cover Held by Dent in Edge
[Illustration]
To prevent kettle covers from dropping off, and the fingers from being
burned by the escaping steam, make a small dent in the edge of the lid,
as shown. In setting the lid into place, arrange it so that the dent is
at the point opposite the spout. Thus, when the water is poured from
the kettle, the lid cannot easily tip forward.--W. J. Parks, LaSalle,
Ill.
Candlesticks Wired Neatly for Electric Lamps
[Illustration]
A number of wooden candlesticks were to be fitted with fixtures for
electric lights, and it was found that the types ordinarily available
could not be attached in the usual manner. A simple method was,
therefore, devised, as shown in the sketch, and proved practical. A
short length of brass tubing, A, was screwed into a hole drilled in
the bottom of the candle socket, both ends of the tube being threaded.
A hole was drilled through the side of the tube, and another through
the side of the candlestick cup, as indicated. The hole in the wood
was fitted with an insulation ring, B. The wiring, suitably taped, was
carried through the opening for it, into the tube, and fastened in
the usual manner to a standard keyless socket, which was then screwed
to the end of the tube, making a substantial support. The lights
were controlled conveniently at the usual wall switches.--Livingston
Haviland, Buffalo, N. Y.
Handy Parcel Carrier with Caster Supports
[Illustration: The Parcels are Handled Easily and with Little Danger of
Damage by the Use of This Homemade Carrier]
Instead of carrying out an armload, or a boxful, of miscellaneous
parcels to the delivery wagon or the customer’s vehicle, an
enterprising grocery clerk made a parcel carrier fitted with casters,
as shown in the sketch. An ordinary wooden box was used for the tray,
and handles were fitted at the ends. The legs were made of light
strips nailed as shown. The parcels are loaded into the tray and the
arrangement carried or rolled along on the casters, as is convenient.
Besides making the work of handling the articles easier, they are kept
clean, since it is not necessary to lay them on the walk or other
undesirable place.--Avis Gordon Vestal, Chicago, Ill.
Kinks in Cleaning a Typewriter
Irregularities in the feeding of the paper into a typewriter are
often due to slippery spots on the platen. To overcome this trouble,
clean the platen thoroughly with a mixture of two parts of denatured
alcohol to one part of ether. Rub the polished parts with No. 2 emery
cloth, then smooth the surface with No. 0 emery cloth. In cleaning
a typewriter with gasoline, the effect is to leave the parts dry. A
better method is to use a mixture of one part of typewriter oil to 50
parts gasoline. This will leave a fine coating of oil, which is too
fine to collect dust, on the working parts.--William Doenges, Fort Sam
Houston, Texas.
Red Lens Hinged to Flash Light for Dark-Room Use
[Illustration: A Ruby Cap Hinged over the Lens of an Ordinary Flash
Light Is a Convenience for the Dark Room]
Amateur photographers will find a red lens attachment for a hand flash
light a useful arrangement for the dark room, when going in or out, and
during the process of developing, especially in temporary quarters.
To fit the device in place, measure the distance around the outside
of the lens holder, and lay out this dimension on a strip of tin, or
other metal, 1 in. wide, as shown. Then add ¹⁄₈ in. at each end, and
an extra strip, which should be cut into ¹⁄₄-in. sections, along the
whole length. A spring tab, midway along the top edge of the metal, is
also made. Curl the piece to a cylindrical form and clinch the joint
as detailed, and bend the notched tabs into place. Slip a piece of
ruby glass into the cylinder and hold it against the notched tabs with
a spring ring. Then solder a small hinge to the edge of the cylinder
and to the lens holder on the flash light, so that the spring tab will
snap into place. When a white light is wanted, the red-glass fitting is
released, as shown.
An Octagonal Mission Center Table
BY HENRY SIMON
The home craftsman who is fairly skilled with woodworking hand tools
will be well repaid for a little extra care in making this mission
center table, of unusual design. Most of the woodwork involved in its
construction is quite simple, the element calling for careful work
being the laying out and shaping of the octagonal top and the shelf.
Because of the wide surfaces exposed it will also pay the maker to
plane, scrape, and sand down these surfaces carefully. By selecting the
best pieces of wood and setting their better sides out, the effect is
also enhanced. The table can be finished in a variety of ways to suit
the furniture of the room where it is used. Various kinds of hard wood
are suitable, quarter-sawed oak being preferable.
[Illustration: The Home Craftsman will Find the Making of This
Octagonal Mission Center Table a Novel Piece of Construction. It Offers
No Special Difficulties if Care is Taken in the Shaping of the Top and
Shelf]
Begin the construction by gluing up the pieces for the top and the
shelf. While they are drying, make the pieces for the legs, the lower
braces, and the strips for the edging of the top. The upper portion of
the legs is of double thickness, ⁷⁄₈-in. stock being used throughout.
Fit the lower supporting framework together as shown in the bottom view
of the shelf, two of the braces extending across the bottom and the
others butting against them.
When the top and shelf are dry, brace the top with cleats screwed on
underneath, as shown in the bottom view of the top. Lay out the shelf
accurately, and shape it to a perfect octagon, 25 in. across from
opposite parallel sides. Make a strip, 1⁵⁄₈ in. wide, and use it in
marking the layout for the top, from the shelf as a pattern, the edges
of the top being parallel with those of the shelf and 1⁵⁄₈ in. from
them.
Assemble the parts as shown, using glue and screws where practicable,
and properly set nails for places where the fastening will be exposed.
All the stock should be cleaned up thoroughly both before and after
assembling. Four pieces for the casters are fastened to the legs with
screws. The edging for the top may be mitered, with a rounded corner,
as shown in the detail, or butted square against the edge of the top,
as indicated in the photograph and the plan of the top, the latter
method being far easier.
* * * * *
¶The nuisance of tracking dust and ashes from the basement can be
overcome, to a considerable extent, by providing carpet mats on two
or three lower treads of the stairs leading from the basement to the
rooms above.
Folding Ironing Board Clamps on Edge of Table or Window
[Illustration: This Rigid Ironing Board Folds Compactly and can be Set
Up with Ease at the Window Sill]
An ironing board is usually most convenient for use when its left end
is set near a window, or other source of light. The arrangement shown
in the sketch was designed with this in mind, and other interesting
features were added. The top is of the usual type. Arranged underneath
it is a cross cleat near one end. Bolted through this are two clamps
which engage the edge of the window sill or table. They are clamped
by lowering the leg from its folded position, underneath the top, as
indicated. The bolts at the clamps are adjustable for gripping various
thicknesses of table tops, etc., between the clamps and the top. The
lower end of the leg can be fitted with a sliding adjustment, if the
board is used at different heights, the design being otherwise the
same.--T. J. Hubbard, Mendota, Ill.
Wire Trellis Fastened Neatly to Brick Walls
A desirable vine often has not the natural ability for clinging to
stone, and other walls, and a suitable aid must be provided to support
it. Fastening a wire trellis to such a wall is a good method. Screw
anchors are used, which fit into holes drilled for them and expand
under the pressure of the screw. Staples may also be used in walls
laid up in mortar. A ⁵⁄₁₆-in. screw anchor will hold an ordinary fence
staple, and requires a ⁷⁄₁₆-in. hole. After the staple has been placed
over the wire its ends are pinched together and driven into the anchor
socket. The staple is held firmly, and will support a considerable
load. First fasten the trellis of wire mesh to the wall, at the top,
very securely. A chalk line aids in setting the wire straight. If
carefully done, the trellis will be hardly noticeable, and the wall
will be unmarred.--C. L. Meller, Fargo, N. D.
A Homemade Fishing Float Adjustable to Depth
A novel device for fishing, especially with a short bait-casting rod,
is a float that can be adjusted to the depth of water in which it is
desired to fish. The float is hollow and slides on the line. To use it,
the casting lead and hooks are adjusted as usual, and a sliding knot
on the line is set for the depth desired, and the cast made. The float
will stop at the sliding knot, and remain on the surface. In reeling
the line, the knot passes freely through the guides, and the float
slides down on the line until it reaches the casting weight.
[Illustration: By Setting a Sliding Knot on the Line, as a Stop for the
Float, the Depth at Which the Sinker is Desired can be Easily Regulated]
Cork is a good material from which to make the float. Cut the cork in
sections, as shown, and fit it over a large quill, which provides a
smooth-running hole through the float. Fit a small glass bead in the
upper end of the float, as a stop for the knot. The knot is of the
figure-eight type, and tied as shown in the detail at the left. It
slides easily, but grips the line tightly enough to stop the float. An
ordinary float can be altered for use as described.--Charles Carroll,
Baltimore, Maryland.
Adjustable and Pivoted Bed Table Attached to Bedpost
[Illustration: This Handy Table Clamps on the Bedpost and can be Swung
Aside Conveniently, or Removed Altogether]
A table arrangement which can be clamped handily to the bedpost and
swung out of the way or removed altogether when not in use, is a
convenience that has a wide use in the home. A device of this kind,
which requires no floor support and can be folded compactly for
storage, is shown in the illustration. The table proper consists of a
⁷⁄₈-in. board, of suitable size, the edges of which are banded with
metal or thin wooden strips. The board is supported on a frame of
iron rod, bent to the form indicated in the dotted lines, and clamped
with ¹⁄₁₆-in. brass clamps. The end of this frame rod is bent at an
angle and pivoted in a metal bracket. A cotter pin guards against
accidental loosening of the joint. The clamping device is made of ¹⁄₄
by 1¹⁄₄-in. band iron, and is bent to fit loosely around the bedpost.
A brass plate, A, is fitted inside of the main piece B, as shown. A
thumbscrew is threaded into the piece B, its point engaging the brass
plate, which acts as a guard. In fastening the piece B on the bedpost,
the thumbscrew is set, and the wing nut also tightened.--A. Lavery,
Garfield, N. J.
A Toy Tractor Built with Dry Cell and Motor
[Illustration: A Boy can Make This Simple Electric Tractor in a Short
Time, and will Get Much Fun Out of It]
An ordinary two-volt dry cell, a small motor, and the necessary wooden
parts, as shown in the illustration, are all that is needed for the
making of a toy tractor that will give its builder a great deal of fun.
A good feature is that the parts can be taken down quickly and used for
other purposes when desired. A base, ¹⁄₂ by 3 by 9 in. long, is made of
wood, and two axles of the same thickness are set under it, as shown.
The wheels are disks cut from spools, or cut out of thin wood for the
rear wheels, and heavier wood for the front ones. They are fastened
with screws and washers, or with nails. The dry cell is mounted on
small strips and held by wires. The motor is fastened with screws and
wired to the dry cell in the usual manner. One of the front wheels
serves as the driver, and is grooved to receive the cord belt.--J. E.
Dalton, Cleveland, O.
A Compact Toilet Outfit for the Soldier
[Illustration]
A compact outfit, which the soldier or camper will appreciate, consists
of a comb, brush, and mirror, clamped together, as shown in the
sketch. Two long staples are set into the back of the brush handle,
as indicated. From a board, ¹⁄₄ in. thick, the backing for the metal
“trench mirror” is made, with the handle portion small enough to fit
into the staples. A small brass strip acts as a spring when placed near
the end of the mirror handle, and holds the outfit snugly.
Preserving Leaves in Specimen Book
The common method of preserving leaves by pressing them with an iron
rubbed on beeswax may be improved by substituting the following
process. Paint the under side of each leaf with linseed oil, ironing
it immediately, and then paint and iron the upper side in the same
way. This treatment gives the leaves sufficient gloss, while they
remain quite pliable. It is not necessary to press and dry the leaves
beforehand, but this may be done if desired. The tints may even be
well preserved by painting only the upper side of the leaves with the
oil and then placing them, without ironing, between newspapers, under
weights, to dry.--Caroline Bollerer, New Britain, Conn.
Removable Drawer Stop
[Illustration]
When I least expected it, the small-tool drawers of my tool chest have
often dropped out, after I had left them partly open. The result was
a waste of time in picking up the tools, not to mention the possible
injury to them. I made small clips, like that shown in the sketch, and
fitted them to the back of the drawers, as at A. When it is desired
to remove the clips, the portion that extends above the drawer may be
bent forward. This is necessary only where the space above the drawer
is small. The clips may be made large enough to fit drawers of various
sizes.--J. Harger, Honolulu, H. I.
Pole Supports Rug Handily for Cleaning
A rug may be handled easily for cleaning if the pole on which it
is rolled when purchased is used as a support, as shown in the
illustration. Two stout wires are fastened into the ends of the pole
and hooked over the tightly stretched clothesline. The rug is suspended
on the roller and is thus kept straight while it is cleaned, the
tendency being, when only a clothesline is used, to crumple at the
middle.--John V. Loeffler, Evansville, Ind.
[Illustration: The Roller on Which the Rug is Rolled When Purchased is
Used to Advantage as a Support While Cleaning It]
Disk Talking Machine as China-Banding Wheel
A serviceable wheel for banding hand-painted china may be had by
adapting a disk talking machine for the purpose. Three old records
are placed on the wheel, so as to bring the surface of the upper one
slightly higher than the center pin. The piece of china to be banded is
set on the exact center of the disk, with the rings on the record as
a guide, and the brush may be rested on the arm of the machine. Care
must, of course, be taken not to injure the talking machine.--Mrs. W.
Read Elmer, Bridgeton, N. J.
Emergency Collar Button
[Illustration]
Requiring a collar button, and, as usual, having no extra one on hand,
I devised the holder shown in the illustration. It proved to be better
than a collar button for use at the back of the neckband. It was bent
into shape from a hairpin and has the advantage of keeping the collar
fixed with little chance of becoming unfastened.--William S. Thompson,
Hopkinsville, Ky.
[Illustration: Making a Coasting Toboggan
BY A. M. PARKER]
Essentials of a good toboggan, whether for coasting or use in
transportation, are strength and lightness, and when it is to be made
in the home shop, the construction must be simple. That shown in the
illustration, and detailed in the working sketches, was designed to
meet these requirements. The materials for the toboggan proper and the
forms over which it is bent, may be obtained at small expense.
Smoothness of finished surface, freedom from tendency to splinter, and
ability to stand up under abuse being requisite qualities in the wood
used to make a toboggan, three varieties may be mentioned in their
order of merit: hickory, birch, and oak. Birch is softer than hickory
and easily splintered, but acquires an excellent polish on the bottom.
Oak stands bending well, but does not become as smooth on the running
surface as close-grained woods. Do not use quarter-sawed oak because of
the cross-grain flakes in its structure.
While the best toboggan is made of a single board, both the securing
of material and its construction are rather difficult. Narrow strips
are easily bent to shape, but do not make a durable article. A toboggan
made of four boards is practical. The mill bill for one 7¹⁄₂ ft. long
by 16 in. wide and for the bending frame, is as follows:
4 pieces, ⁵⁄₁₆ by 4 in. by 10 ft., hard wood.
7 „ 1 by 1 in. by 16 in., „ „
2 „ ¹⁄₂ by 1 in. by 16 in., „ „
2 „ 1 by 6 in. by 6 ft., common boards.
6 „ 1 by 2 in. by 18 in., „ „
1 cylindrical block, 12 in. diameter by 18 in. long.
[Illustration: This Toboggan Is Strong and Light; It will afford the
Maker Much Pleasure Both in the Interesting Process of Construction
and in the Use for Coasting or Transportation. It may be Made as an
Individual Project or as a Joint Undertaking by Several Boys]
The form for the bending of the pieces is made of the common boards and
the block. A block sawed from the end of a dry log is excellent. Heat
it, if convenient, just before bending the strips. The boards for the
bottom should be selected for straightness of grain and freedom from
knots and burls. Carefully plane the side intended for the wearing
surface, and bevel the edges so that, when placed together, they form
a wide “V” joint, half the depth of the boards. The 1 by 1-in. pieces
are for cross cleats and should be notched on one side, 1 in. from each
end, to receive the side ropes. The two ¹⁄₂ by 1-in. pieces are to be
placed one at each side of the extreme end of the bent portion, to
reinforce it.
[Illustration: The Boards for the Bottom are Steamed or Boiled at the
Bow Ends and Bent over the Form. As the Bending Operation Progresses,
the Boards are Nailed to the Form with Cleats, and Permitted to Dry in
This Position]
Bore a gimlet hole through the centers of the 1 by 2 by 18-in pieces,
and 4¹⁄₄ in. each side of this hole, bore two others. Nail the end
of one of the 6-ft. boards to each end of the block, so that their
extended ends are parallel. With 3-in. nails, fasten one of the bored
pieces to the block between the boards, inserting, temporarily, a
¹⁄₂-in. piece to hold it out that distance from the block.
Steam about 3 ft. of the ends of the boards, or boil them in a tank.
Clamp, or nail, the boards together, at the dry ends, edge to edge,
between two of the 1 by 2-in. pieces, leaving about ¹⁄₄-in. opening
between boards. Thrust the steamed ends under the cleat nailed on the
block, the nails which hold it slipping up between the boards. Bear
down on the toboggan carefully, nailing on another of the bored cleats,
when the toboggan boards have been curved around the block as far as
the floor will permit. The nails, of course, go between the boards.
Now, turn the construction over and bend up the toboggan, following
the boards around the block with more of the nailed cleats, until the
clamped end is down between the two 6-ft. boards, where it can be
held by a piece nailed across. More of the cleats may be nailed on if
desired; in fact, the closer together the cleats are the less danger
there is of splintering the boards, and the more perfect the conformity
of the boards to the mold.
Allow at least four days for drying before removing the boards from the
form. Clamp the ¹⁄₂ by 1-in. pieces one each side of the extreme ends
of the bent bows, drill holes through, and rivet them. A 1 by 1-in.
crossbar is riveted to the inside of the bow at the extreme front and
another directly under the extremity of the curved end. These cleats
are wired together to hold the bend of the bow. The tail end crossbar
should be placed not nearer than 2¹⁄₂ in. from the end of the boards,
while the remainder of the crossbars are evenly spaced between the
front and back pieces, taking care that the notched side is always
placed down. Trim off uneven ends, scrape and sandpaper the bottom
well, and finish the toboggan with oil. Run a ³⁄₈-in. rope through
the notches under the ends of the cross pieces, and the toboggan is
completed.
Screws are satisfactory substitutes for rivets in fastening together
the parts, and wire nails, of a length to allow for about ¹⁄₄-in.
clinch, give a fair job. Indians overcome the lack of hardware by the
use of rawhide, laced through diagonally staggered holes bored through
the crosspieces and bottom boards. Rawhide, which they sometimes
stretch over the bow as a protection, affords an opportunity for
elaborate ornamentation.
Wooden Lock with Combination Key
[Illustration: This Lock is Made Entirely of Wood and cannot be Picked
Easily]
The lock shown in the sketch and detailed drawings is made entirely of
wood, and it is nearly impossible to pick or open it without the use of
the key. The casing of the lock is 5 by 5 in. and 1 in. thick, of hard
wood, oak being suitable for this as well as for the other parts. Three
tumblers, a bolt, and a keeper are required. The key is shown inserted,
indicating how the tumblers are raised by it. The bolt is slotted and
a screw placed through it to prevent it from being moved too far. The
lock and keeper are bolted into place on a door with carriage bolts,
the heads being placed on the outer side.
[Illustration: The Details of Construction must be Observed Carefully
and the Parts Made Accurately to Insure Satisfactory Operation]
The detailed drawing shows the parts, together with the dimensions of
each, which must be followed closely.
The lock casing is grooved with two grooves, extending the length of
the grain and connected by open mortises, all ¹⁄₂ in. in depth. The
spacing of the mortises and the grooves is shown in the views of the
casing. Three tumblers, ¹⁄₂ in. square and 2¹⁄₂ in. long, are required.
The bolt is ¹⁄₂ by 1 by 8 in., and the key ¹⁄₄ by ³⁄₄ by 5¹⁄₂ in., and
notched as shown. All the parts of the lock must be fitted carefully,
sandpapered smooth, and oiled to give a finish that will aid in the
operation, as well as protect the wood. Aside from its practical use,
this lock is interesting as a piece of mechanical construction.--B.
Francis Dashiell, Baltimore, Md.
Variety of Uses for an Electric Iron
[Illustration]
A milliner, in addition to using her electric iron for ordinary
purposes of ironing and pressing, inverts it between two hollow tiles
and thus makes use of it in steaming velvet trimmmings. The tiles not
only hold the iron securely in this position, but also insulate it
from overheating or scorching adjoining objects or surfaces. The iron
is also used inverted for heating water, cooking coffee, and other
liquids, as well as in providing a warm lunch.
Renewing Dry Batteries with Sal Ammoniac
[Illustration]
Finding that dry batteries had increased in price, and requiring a
number for experimental purposes, I devised the following method by
which I was able to use the old batteries for a considerable period:
When the dry cells were nearly exhausted, I punched holes through the
zinc covering with a nail, as shown in the sketch. The holes were
placed about 1¹⁄₂ in. apart, and care was taken not to punch them near
the upper edge of the container, or the black insulation might thus
be injured. The cells were then placed in a saturated solution of sal
ammoniac. The vessel containing the liquid must be filled only to
within ¹⁄₂ in. from the top of the cell, otherwise the binding posts
will be corroded, and the cell probably short-circuited. The cells were
left in the solution six hours, and then became remarkably live. They
must not be connected or permitted to come into contact with each other
while in the solution.--H. Sterling Parker, Brooklyn, N. Y.
A Sliding Board for Coasting
[Illustration]
The simple device shown in the sketch can afford youngsters much
amusement in coasting down inclines or small hills, either on the snow
or on surfaces slightly crusted with ice. The board is intended for
individual use only and should be about 10 in. wide and 26 in. long. It
is reinforced underneath by a strip of wood, about ¹⁄₄ in. thick and
smoothed on its lower side. This piece is fastened in the form of a
bow by placing a small cleat between it and the upper piece. The strip
should be about 3 in. wide, and aids in keeping the sliding board in
its course.--John F. Long, Springfield, Mo.
Electrical Device Transmits Striking of Clock
Converting an ordinary parlor, or mantel, clock into a master clock,
from which the striking of the gong is transmitted to various parts of
the home, may be accomplished by fitting it with a simple electrical
device, as shown in the sketch. The general arrangement of the
batteries, single-stroke bells, and the contact device within the
clock case is shown in Fig. 1; a detail of the silk cord and other
connections of the contact key and the gong hammer, is shown in Fig. 2.
This arrangement has been in operation for several years, and has been
found practical.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
The General Arrangement of the Apparatus for Transmitting the Striking
of a Clock Gong is Shown in Fig. 1, and a Detail of the Contact Device
in Fig. 2]
The various rooms to which the striking of the gong is to be
transmitted are wired with No. 18 annunciator wire, run carefully
behind picture moldings and in corners. Where the wires must be carried
through a partition, a ¹⁄₄-in. hole is sufficiently large for the
purpose. The single-stroke bells are wired up as shown in the sketch.
The number of dry batteries necessary varies with the number of bells
in the circuit, and also depends on the length of wire through which
the current is carried. A trial should be made with several batteries
and more added until the bells are rung properly.
The connecting device may be fitted into the clock case without
defacing it by boring holes in its side, and the binding posts are
fixed into place neatly. The two sections of the contact key, shown
in detail in Fig. 2, are fastened to the back of the clock case with
bolts. The upper member is fitted with an adjustable thumbscrew and is
stationary on the bolt fastening. The lower arm is made of covered wire
and is pivoted on the supporting bolt. Attached to its lower edge, at
the pivot, is a small lever arm. This is connected to the hammer rod of
the gong with a silk cord. The length of the cord must be determined
by careful adjustment so that it will not hinder the action of the
hammer H, but will bring the swinging arm into proper contact with
the thumbscrew. The contact should be made at the instant the hammer
strikes the bell. The contact of the platinum point of the thumbscrew
and the swinging arm must be close, but not too strong. Metal posts or
tubes fitted over the bolts, at the points where the arms are attached
to the back of the clock case, may be used to bring the arms the proper
distance forward in the case, so that they will be in alinement with
the hammer rod. The silk cord must not interfere with the action of
the pendulum P. To hold the silk cord in place on the hammer rod, drop
a small piece of melted sealing wax or solder on the rod.--W. E. Day,
Pittsfield, Mass.
Antique Signboard Made of Headboard of Bed
Some old headboards of beds are of such a pattern that they lend
themselves readily for use as signboards, with only slight alteration.
Such an adaptation is shown in the sketch, and was fitted to a bracket
of ornamental iron, the whole producing a striking effect. The sign was
made of black walnut and was, by reason of its age, well seasoned. It
was treated with several coats of linseed oil to withstand the action
of the weather better.
[Illustration: A Signboard Which Attracts Attention was Made of the
Headboard of a Walnut Bed]
Auto Horn for Child’s Play Vehicle
A baking-powder, or other tinned, can may be used to make the small
automobile horn shown in the illustration, for use on a child’s coaster
wagon. The device consists of a toothed wheel operating against several
metal pawls within the can, and the warning sound is produced by
turning a small crank at the end of the can. The can is fixed to the
side of the vehicle by means of a wire or strap-iron bracket, as shown
in the sketch at E.
[Illustration: This Small Auto Horn was Made of a Tinned Can Fitted
with a Notched Wheel and Pawls]
A piece of wood is fitted into the can, to support the ratchet wheel.
It is bored to carry a shaft, which bears in the end of the can, and at
the exposed end of which is fixed a crank. A disk of wood, about ¹⁄₂
in. thick, is cut to have a notched edge, as shown at A. The notched
wheel is placed upon the shaft, and fastened securely to it, so that
the ratchet wheel revolves with the shaft when the crank on the latter
is turned. Four small pawls of sheet metal, are fixed on the inner
support, as shown at B. They are made by cutting pieces of metal to the
shape shown at C, and folding them, as shown at D. They are fastened
to the support with small screws or nails. The cover is placed on the
end of the can when the device is used. The action of the ratchet wheel
against the pawls is to produce a loud grating sound, resembling that
of a horn of the siren type.--William Freebury, Buffalo, N. Y.
Wall Pocket for Paste Tubes
A small paste tube of the collapsible variety is hard to keep at hand
on the desk and occasionally, if left uncovered, the contents may be
forced out on papers or on the table. A simple container may be made
for the tube by cutting the carton in which the tube is packed with
a penknife, so as to expose the upper end of the tube. The cover and
upper end of the back of the carton is doubled over to provide an extra
thickness for a support, by which the contrivance may be suspended on
the wall.--T. H. Linthicum, Annapolis, Md.
Cutting Thin Wooden Disks
[Illustration: Draw the Strip with Its Saw-Tooth Brads around the
Center, Cutting Out the Disk]
Instead of cutting thin wooden disks with a coping saw, making
it necessary to smooth off the circumference of the disk, more
satisfactory results may be had by the following method: Determine the
center from which the circumference of the disk is to be struck. Drive
a nail through a strip of wood about 1 in. wide and ¹⁄₄ in. thick,
and into the center of the proposed disk. At a point on the strip, so
as to strike the circumference of the disk, drive two sharp brads, as
shown in the sectional view of the sketch, arranging them to act as
saw teeth, by driving them at an angle, with a slight space between
the points. By grasping the end of the strip and drawing it carefully
around the center a number of times, the disk may be cut cleanly. By
cutting from one side nearly through the board, and then finishing
the cut from the other, an especially good job results.--S. E. Woods,
Seattle, Wash.
[Illustration: A WISHBONE-MAST ICE YACHT
by John F. Pjerrou]
Large spread of canvas and great speed when running with the wind, or
“free”; stability under heavy wind, and adaptability to sailing under
conditions similar to those of the common, single-boom-and-sheet ice
boat, are the features of the ice yacht shown in the illustration.
The runner and frame structure is in general typical of ice-boat
construction. The double, or wishbone, mast is distinctive, as is the
double-boom and sail arrangement, shown in Figs. 1 and 6. The booms
are pivoted at the bow of the craft, and controlled at the stern by
the usual line and pulley rigging. The booms may be spread so that a
V-shaped cavity is afforded for taking the wind when running free, or
they may be brought together and both sails manipulated as a single
sheet. Reefing and lowering of the sails are accomplished in the usual
manner. The framework is very substantial and the proportions are of
moderate range, so that the craft may be constructed economically
for one or two passengers. The double-boom feature may be omitted if
the craft is to be used where little or no opportunity is afforded
for running before the wind, by reason of the particular ice areas
available. For the experimenter with sailing craft, the wishbone-mast
ice yacht affords opportunity for adaptation of the various elements
of the craft described, and is a novelty. The dimensions given are
for a small yacht, and care must be taken, in adapting the design, to
maintain proper proportions for stability and safety. A side view with
working dimensions is shown in Fig. 1; inset into it is Fig. 6, showing
a front view of the mast and sail arrangement. Figure 2 shows a view
of the framework from below. A detail of the fastening of the backbone
and runner plank is shown in Fig. 3; a detail of the fastening of the
masts and the forward runners into the runner plank, in Fig. 4, and the
fixture by which the booms and the yard are attached to the forward end
of the backbone, in Fig. 5.
The construction should begin with the making of the lower framework,
as shown in Fig. 2 viewed from the lower side. The main frame consists
of a backbone, of spruce or white pine, 4 in. thick, 8 in. high at the
center, and 16 ft. long, clamped accurately at right angles to a runner
plank, of the same material, 2 in. thick, 10 in. wide, and 12 ft. 6
in. long. The backbone is tapered from the middle portion, 5 ft. 6 in.
from the forward end, and with a ridge, 8 in. high and 2 ft. 6 in.
long, measured from the end of the taper at this end, as shown in Fig.
1. It is tapered to 4 in. at each end, and the bow end is fitted with
a three-eye metal ring, as shown in detail in Fig. 5. The runner plank
and the backbone are clamped together firmly at their crossing, the
backbone being set upon the plank, by means of two strap bolts, with
washers and nuts, as shown in detail in Fig. 3. Only the best material
should be used in the backbone and runner plank, and the stock should
be straight-grained, to give the greatest strength.
The runner plank is tapered down to 8 in. at its ends, to which
the guides for the forward runners are fixed. The guides are of
straight-grained oak, 1¹⁄₂ by 3 by 14 in., bolted to the runner plank
with ⁵⁄₁₆-in. carriage bolts, as shown in the detail sketch, Fig. 4,
and in Fig. 2. The guides and the ends of the plank are reinforced with
oak chocks, bolted in place at each of the tapered edges of the plank.
The forward runners are of oak, 1¹⁄₂ by 5 by 36 in., shaped at their
ends as shown, and shod with half-round strap iron. The heads of the
screws used for this purpose are countersunk carefully. The runners are
pivoted on ⁵⁄₈-in. bolts, the nuts being set to the inner side. Washers
and jam nuts should be provided, or the ends of the bolts riveted
slightly, to prevent the nuts from becoming loosened.
The stern runner is of oak, 1¹⁄₂ by 5 by 30 in., shod like the forward
runners, and is pivoted in a forged wrought-iron hanger. The lower
portion of the hanger may be made of a strip of heavy iron, bent into
a U-shape, and drilled to receive a ³⁄₈-in. bolt, on which the runner
pivots. The U-shaped piece is riveted firmly to a vertical shaft,
provided with a heavy rubber washer, protected from wear by a metal
one, as indicated at the right in Fig. 1. The upper end of the shaft is
threaded to receive a washer and nut. A section of pipe is fitted over
the shaft, and the steering handle, fitted to a square section of the
shaft, is clamped securely.
The cockpit is fixed to the lower side of the backbone, and is 5
ft. long and 3 ft. wide, with coaming, 4 in. high. It is shown with
square corners, since this construction is convenient, though not as
good as the type having the ends of the cockpit rounded, and fitted
with coaming steamed and bent to the curve. The floor of the cockpit
is fastened to the backbone with lag screws, and the coaming is also
fastened securely; this construction, if carefully made, will afford
ample strength. If desired, especially in larger craft, ribs may be
fixed to the backbone, to carry the cockpit.
The runners, the runner plank, and the backbone must be alined
carefully, so that they are at right angles, and track properly;
otherwise the craft will not keep a true course, and cannot be
controlled properly by the rudder runner. The backbone and runner plank
are held rigidly by four ¹⁄₄-in. wire-rope stays, shown in Fig. 2. They
are fixed to eyes on the bands at the bow, near the ends of the runner
plank, and to an eyebolt below the cockpit. The stays are provided with
turnbuckles, so that they may be adjusted as required. The bands near
the ends of the runner plank are fixed to the lower ends of the masts,
as shown in detail in Fig. 4, and are reinforced with oak blocks. The
ends of the guy wires are fastened to the eyes by looping them and
clamping the resulting eye with steel clamps made for this purpose.
Metal thimbles may be fitted into the loop of the rope, to make a
better finish; other fastenings may easily be devised by one skilled
enough to make such a construction.
The wishbone mast is made of two poles of hickory or ash, 3¹⁄₂ in.
thick at the base, and tapered to 2 in. at the top. The poles are
joined carefully at the masthead, bolted together, and fitted to an oak
breast hook, as shown in Fig. 6. An iron strap reinforces the joint,
and an eye, fashioned at its upper end, affords a point of attachment
for the forward stay of the mast. The lower ends of the poles forming
the mast are fitted into sockets in the runner plank, which is
reinforced with mast blocks, as shown in Fig. 4. The ends of the mast,
projecting beyond the lower side of the runner plank, are fitted with
eye bands, used in guying the runner plank and backbone.
The sails are carried on a yard and two booms, of the same material as
the masts, each 16 ft. long, 2³⁄₄ in. at the middle and tapering to
1¹⁄₂ in. at the ends. They are fitted with metal rings at the ends to
prevent splitting. The yard and booms are fitted to the backbone at the
bow by means of loops bolted to them and engaging an eyebolt and ring
on the backbone. The eyebolt is fitted into a slotted plate of ³⁄₁₆-in.
sheet iron, and fastened by a lever nut, as shown in Fig. 5. The sheets
are fastened to the yard and booms in the usual manner, being fitted
with grommets, and tied with line. The yard is suspended from the
masthead by means of a line and pulley, the former being cleated to the
backbone. The booms are controlled by the operator from the cockpit,
by the use of lines and pulleys, similar to the arrangement used on
sailboats, except that a duplicate set is required for the additional
boom. The lines are cleated on the backbone convenient to the cockpit.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 6
FIG. 5
FIG. 2
FIG. 4
FIG. 3
The Wishbone Mast Provides a Strong Construction of Marked Stability,
and the Double Booms and Sails Permit of Great Speed When Running
before the Wind. When Tacking, the Sails and Booms are Used as One Boom
and Sheet. Figure 1 Shows the Side Elevation; Fig. 2 a View of the
Lower Side, and the Details are Shown in the Other Figures]
The sails are of the lateen type, and should be made of 8-oz.
unbleached cotton duck. The breadths are sewn together by lapping
one edge over the other about 1 in., and sewing or stitching along
the edge. Yard-wide material is satisfactory, and if narrower laps
or bights are desired, simply fold over 1 in. of the goods and
double-stitch the seam. The bights should run parallel with the after,
or leach, edge of the sail, as shown in Fig. 1. Each corner of the sail
should be reinforced with a triangular patch of duck, so that it will
stand up under the severe strain of winter usage. The edges of the sail
may be bound with ¹⁄₄-in. tarred rope, which is not difficult if a
sailor’s palm and a diamond-pointed needle are used. Sail twine, well
waxed, should be used for the sewing of the sails.
The edges of the sails adjoining the yard and booms are provided
with grommet holes by means of which the sails are attached to their
supports. The grommets are made by punching holes in the sails, at the
proper points, fitting two ³⁄₄-in. brass grommet rings into the holes,
one at each side, and overcasting them with a buttonhole stitch. The
sail needle and waxed sail twine are used. The reef points are of the
usual type, and are made of ¹⁄₈-in. cotton rope, whipped at the ends to
prevent raveling, and sewed to the sails at intervals.
The craft is designed to be taken down when not in use, particularly
between seasons, and can be stored in comparatively small space, in the
knockdown form. The method of setting up the ice yacht will serve to
illustrate, also, the method of taking it down, in that the process is
practically reversed. First, the backbone is fitted with the forward
ring and the strap bolts are fastened at the crossing of the backbone
and runner plank. The runners are fitted into place, and the steering
rigging is adjusted. The wishbone mast is set into its steps, clamped
at its masthead, and the bands fitted to the lower ends. The guy wires
at the bottom and that at the masthead are then set, by means of the
turnbuckles. The sails are attached to the yard and booms, and the
forward end of the latter supports are fixed into place. The pulley at
the masthead is fitted with ³⁄₈-in. rope which is fastened to the yard,
at the proper point, as indicated in Fig. 1. The rigging by which the
booms are controlled is threaded through the pulleys at the stern and
the ends fixed on the cleats. The yard may now be hauled up and the
craft trimmed so that the sails “set” properly. The halyard is fixed to
the yard, as shown, and run through a pulley at the masthead, then down
through a second pulley fixed to the runner plank, from which it is
conducted to cleats convenient to the operator in the cockpit.
The main sheets are rigged as shown in Fig. 1. The ends of the lines
are lashed to the ends of the booms, passed through pulleys, at the
stern of the backbone, on the booms, about 1 ft. from the ends, and
5 ft. from the ends, respectively, then down to the cleats at the
cockpit. This rigging gives good purchase on the lines and makes it
convenient for the operator to attend to the helm and the lines at
the same time. The fittings are, as nearly as possible, designed to
be standard and may be purchased from ship chandlers, or dealers in
marine hardware and fittings. The special metal parts may be made by
one of fair mechanical skill, or may be made by local blacksmiths. The
woodwork is all comparatively simple. The masts, yard, and booms should
be smoothed carefully, sandpapered lightly, and finished with several
coats of spar varnish. The other woodwork may be painted suitably, and
the metal fittings should be finished with two coats of red lead, or
other good paint for use on metals exposed to the weather.
The manipulation of this craft is in general similar to that of the
common lateen-rig, or other sail and ice, boats. When running before
the wind--free--the booms are separated and the wind acts against the
sails in the pocket between them. When tacking, the booms are brought
together, and the sails act as one sheet, on a craft of the ordinary
type.
Cork Plugs Save Wear on Drafting Board
Draftsmen, whose work demands the use of drawing paper of uniform
size, sometimes experience difficulty in fixing thumb tacks solidly
in the board. This is caused by the continual placing of tacks in the
same spot and may be overcome by the use of cork plugs which can be
removed when worn. At the four points where the tacks are generally
placed, bore 1-in. holes nearly through the board. Insert corks large
enough to be forced into the holes and trim them off flush with the
surface. Tacks will hold firmly in them and new corks may be inserted
as needed.--G. F. Thompson, Pittsburgh, Pa.
Stand for a Test-Tube Flower Vase
A test-tube vase, containing a single blossom, adds color and a certain
individual touch to the business man’s desk, or it may be used with
effectiveness in the home. A simple wooden stand, finished to harmonize
with the surroundings, may be made easily, and affords a support and
protection for the test tube. The sketch shows a small stand of this
type, made of oak, in the straight-line mission style. It may be
adapted to other woods and to various designs in straight or curved
lines.
[Illustration: The Stand Provides a Support and Protection for the
Test-Tube Vase on the Office Desk or in the Home]
The base is 2¹⁄₂ in. square, and rests on two cross strips, 1 in. wide.
All the material may be about ¹⁄₄ in. thick, but it is desirable to
have the base and cap pieces of thicker stuff. The uprights may be of
¹⁄₈ to ¹⁄₄-in. stuff, and are notched together as shown. They are 1 in.
wide and 6¹⁄₄ in. long, a portion being cut out to receive the test
tube. The cap is 1¹⁄₂ in. square, and its edges are chamfered slightly,
as are those on the upper edge of the base. The pieces are fitted
together with small brads, used as hidden dowels, and the joints are
glued. Brads may be used to nail the pieces together, and they should
be sunk into the wood, and the resulting holes filled carefully. The
stand should be stained a dark color, or left natural, and given a coat
of shellac or varnish.
Pouring Liquids Quickly from Containers
In pouring a liquid from a jug or bottle, the vessel should be held
with the opening downward, rather than horizontally, if convenient,
and swung quickly with a circular motion. The liquid will rotate and
in leaving the opening will permit air to enter continuously, causing
the liquid to run out rapidly and without intermittent gurgling sounds.
If the opening of the container is at one side it is best to hold the
container so that the opening is at the highest point of the end rather
than at the bottom. The air may thus enter and permit a continuous flow
until the container is empty.--E. F. Koke, Colorado Springs, Colo.
A Table-Knife Sharpener
The knife sharpener shown can be easily made of two pieces of thin
wood, such as cigar-box covers, about 2 in. wide and 2¹⁄₂ in. long, and
two discarded safety-razor blades of the heavier type. Lay the wood
pieces together and saw a slot down the center for about 1³⁄₄ in. Lay
the two razor blades at an angle of about 2° on each side of the slot,
as shown, fasten them to one of the boards, and securely attach the
other board over them.
[Illustration]
To sharpen a knife, run it through the slot two or three times. The
sharpener can be fastened with a hinge so that it will swing inside of
the drawer, or box, that the knives are kept in, and it will always be
ready for use.--Contributed by Henry J. Marion, Pontiac, Mich.
Raising and Lowering Curtain at a Distance
[Illustration: A Ribbon or Tape Attached to a Curtain Roller to Operate
It at a Distance]
To enable an invalid, or any other person, to easily raise and lower
a curtain from a position at a distance from the window, a ribbon can
be attached to the roller, at the center and on the inner side of the
curtain. The ribbon may extend across the room in line with the window,
and still operate the curtain as well as with the regular cord attached
to the bottom. If desirable to operate the curtain by a vertical pull,
a flat pulley may be conveniently fastened to the ceiling or wall,
and the ribbon passed over it, or through a ring, as shown. This plan
is especially adapted for show windows where the curtain string would
otherwise mar the appearance and be hard to get at.--Contributed by L.
E. Turner, New York, N. Y.
The Mystic Climbing Ring
[Illustration]
The performer hands out a wand for examination and borrows a finger
ring. He holds the wand in his hand, point upward, and drops the ring
on it, then makes mesmeric passes over the wand with the other, and
causes the ring to climb toward the top, stop at any place desired,
pass backward, and at last fall from the wand. The wand and ring are
examined again by the audience.
To produce this little trick, the performer must first provide himself
with a round, black stick, about 14 in. long, a piece of No. 60 black
cotton thread about 18 in. long, and a small bit of beeswax. Tie one
end of the thread to the top button on the coat and to the free end
stick the beeswax, which is stuck to the lower button until ready for
the trick.
After the wand is returned, secretly stick the waxed end to the top
of the wand, then drop the ring on it. Moving the wand slightly from
oneself will cause the ring to move upward, and relaxing it causes the
ring to fall. In the final stage remove the thread and hand out the
wand for examination.
[Illustration: Skis and Ski Running
By Stillman Taylor.]
PART I--Prominent Types of Modern Skis
The requirements of the modern ski call for a hard, flexible, and
tough material, and while hickory, white ash, white maple, birch,
yellow pine, white pine, and spruce are all used, the experienced ski
runner considers hickory and ash to combine in the fullest measure the
qualities most desired. Of course, every wood has its limitations as
well as merits. Hickory is elastic and fairly tough, but heavy. Ash
resembles hickory so far as elasticity is concerned, and its weight is
about the same, but the wood contains soft layers. Birch possesses the
requisite lightness, but is far too brittle to prove serviceable, and
pine is open to the same objection. Maple makes an excellent ski, which
can be finished very smooth so as to slide more easily than the other
woods, but it is much less flexible than either hickory or ash.
The Telemark-Model Ski
This form of ski, so called from the Telemarken province of Norway,
where the art of ski running has reached a high order of skill, is
probably the choice of the sportsmen wherever the exhilarating sport
of ski running is practiced, and the larger portion of the members
of the numerous skiing clubs use the Telemark-model ski. This type
is practically identical with the most popular model so long used
in Telemarken, and the rule for its selection is to choose a pair
whose length reaches the middle joint of the fingers when the arm is
stretched above the head. There are various makers of this type of ski,
and while the modeling will be found to differ but little, there are
numerous brands sold which are fashioned of cheap and flimsy material,
and consequently unsatisfactory in every respect.
The Telemark model is shown in Fig. 1, and from this sketch it will
be seen that the wood has two curves or bends, one running its entire
length to form a graceful arch, and the second, at the toe. The first
one is technically known as the “arch,” and the other curve the “bend,”
while the front or toe end of the ski is called the “point,” and the
rear end the “heel.” In almost all skis the under, or running, surface
is provided with a hollow, known as the “groove,” which runs from the
heel to the bend. It will be noticed in the drawing that the sides also
are gently curved, thus making the ski a trifle broader at the ends
than in the center. This curve affords a somewhat greater bend at the
heel, and while some experts approve, others disapprove of it, but most
ski runners agree that the curve should not be pronounced, or it will
prove a handicap and make it difficult for the runner to secure a firm
grip at the edge when ascending steep slopes covered with hard snow.
The “arch” of the ski is necessary to avoid bending when the weight of
the body is on the runner, and the total height of this important curve
should not exceed ³⁄₄ in., for a too exaggerated arch will practically
form a concave running surface and retard the speed, since it will run
on two edges, or points, instead of on the entire running surface. A
slight arch may be reckoned necessary to offset the weight of the body,
but the utility of the ski, in nearly every instance, will be less
affected by too little arch than by too great a curve at this point.
A good ski is told at a glance by its bend, which must never be
abruptly formed, nor carried too high. A maximum curve of 6 in. is all
that is ever required, and to prevent breaking at this, the weakest,
part of the ski, the bend must be gradual like the curve of a good bow,
thus making it more flexible and elastic at this point. As a rule, the
ski should be fashioned a trifle broader at the bend than at any other
point, and the wood should be pared moderately thin, which will make it
strong and resilient with plenty of spring, or “backbone.”
The groove in the running surface is so formed as to make the ski
steady and prevent “side slip” when running straightaway. In fact this
groove may be compared to the keel of a boat, and as the latter may be
made too deep, making it difficult to steer the craft and interfering
with the turning, so will the badly formed groove interfere with the
control of the ski. The Telemark round-faced groove is by far the best
form, and for all-around use is commonly made ¹⁄₁₂ or ¹⁄₈ in. deep.
Not all Telemark skis are thus fashioned, however, some being made
without the groove, while others are provided with two, and I have
seen one marked with three parallel hollows. The shallow groove is the
most satisfactory for general use, and while a groove, ³⁄₈ or ¹⁄₂ in.
deep, is good enough for straightaway running, it makes turning more
difficult.
To attach the ski binding, which secures the shoe to the runner, a hole
in the form of a narrow slit is made just back of the center. This is
the usual manner of attaching the foot binding, and while it cannot but
weaken the ski to a certain extent, it is the best method for making a
secure foot fastening, and weakens the wood to a much less extent than
the use of bolts, or other metal fastening.
So far as finish is concerned, most Norwegian makers finish their skis
with a coat of black paint, while other makers stain the wood, and some
finish the wood in the natural color by varnishing. This applies to the
upper surface only, the running surface being rubbed down with linseed
oil and made smooth with wax.
The Swedish Ski
This type of ski is made quite long and comparatively narrow, with
a deep groove, and is well adapted for running on the level or for
gliding down slight slopes. This type of ski is commonly used in
Lapland and to a less extent in the northern parts of Norway, but
the great length and quick, short bend make this model less adapted
for ordinary use, since the deep, rectangular groove slows down the
speed, and the great length makes turning doubly difficult. For special
conditions this type is probably useful, but it can scarcely be
considered suited to the average use.
Lilienfeld Ski
This type of ski is favored by but comparatively few ski runners, and
the modeling is inferior to the Telemark ski. The arch is excessive
in height, the bend is abrupt and stiff, while the round point,
fashioned to prevent sticking in loose brush, has apparently little
value in actual use. The Lilienfeld ski is made without a groove,
and since the whole model is shorter and broader than the usual type
of ski, turning is more easily accomplished, but side slipping is,
of course, considerably increased. Ease in turning is a desirable
quality, to be sure, but steadiness and immunity from side slipping are
far more valuable qualities in a ski designed for all-around use. In
short, the Lilienfeld model possesses no decided advantages over the
Telemark type, but has many points of inferiority. To one who has used
both models there can be no question but that the Telemark model is
preferable.
When purchasing skis the sportsman will make no mistake in selecting
the Telemark model, and for an active person the skis should be long
enough to reach to the middle joint of the fingers, when the arms are
stretched above the head, and the ski is stood upright on its heel. The
length of a pair so selected will be from 7¹⁄₂ to 8 ft. For elderly and
less active persons, for individuals of short stature, and for ladies,
skis reaching to the wrist joint will be about right; the length
ranging from 6¹⁄₂ to 7 ft. For youths and children shorter skis, from 5
to 6 ft. in length, according to the size and strength of the person,
are of course required.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
The Telemark, Swedish and Lilienfeld Models with Grooves and Grooveless
Bottoms, the Telemark Being the Standard and Best All-Around Ski; the
Swedish is Long and Narrow with Upturned Heel, and the Lilienfeld Is
Short with a Round Point, More Abrupt Bend, and without a Groove]
For all-around use where a large amount of straight running is done,
the running surface should be provided with a groove, but if there is
not much straight work to be done, and ease in turning is regarded as
an important factor, the running surface should be made smooth. This
necessitates making the skis to order, for practically all ready-made
skis of the Telemark model are fashioned with a shallow groove.
However, a groove may be easily cut in at any time if wanted later on.
While other types are at times preferred for special use in certain
localities, the Telemark-model ski is the standard, being equally good
for all kinds of work, straight running, uphill skiing, and for jumping.
The best materials are hickory, or white ash, with a straight, even
grain running from end to end. Ash is well liked by many experts, but
it would indeed be difficult to find a more satisfactory wood than our
American hickory. In fact, many of the most prominent makers in Europe
are now fashioning their skis from American timber. As a rule, the best
well-seasoned ash, or hickory, is heavier in weight than an inferior
grade, and this is why the expert skier considers weight as one of
the reliable “earmarks” of first-class material. A good hickory, or
ash, ski made by any reputable maker will give the fullest measure of
satisfaction.
The finish of skis is purely a matter of personal taste, but
practically all Norwegian skis are painted black on the upper side,
while a few of the cheaper maple and pine implements are stained. The
plain varnished finish protects the wood as well as paint, but allows
the grain to show through, and is generally preferred by experts. The
running surface must be as smooth as possible to obtain the best speed,
and it must not be varnished, the wood being filled with several coats
of linseed oil to which a little wax has been added. Tar is used to
some extent, but this preparation is mostly employed by Swedish makers.
The Requirements of Foot Binding
[Illustration: FIG. 2]
The manner in which the foot is secured to the ski is highly important,
and while various kinds of “bindings” are in use, from the simple
cane binding, which marked the first substantial improvement over the
twisted birch withes originally used by the peasantry of Telemarken,
the Huitfeldt bindings are for many reasons considered the best by
experts. The ski runner must have a foot binding that is well secured
under all ordinary conditions met with in ski running, and it must be
quite rigid and without lateral play. It is desirable also that the
foot be freed whenever a fall occurs, thus preventing possible sprains
at the ankle and knee, as well as avoiding breakage of the straps.
Again the heel of the skier should be free to move up and down for
at least 3 in., but the binding should check the vertical movement
at this height, thus easing the foot of undue strain when the ski is
slid forward, in climbing or working on the level. These essential
specifications are so well incorporated in the Huitfeldt model that
the description and illustrations of this admirable attachment will
suffice. As shown in Fig. 2, the boot is wedged into a firm position
between the metal toe piece at the sides. To secure a rigid support,
these toe pieces must be firmly wedged in position on the ski, and the
skiing shoe should fit between them snugly and well. For this type of
binding, a shoe having a stout sole is desirable so that it may keep
rigid under the pressure of the body at various angles, and be heavy
enough to stand the more or less constant chafing of the metal toe
plates. One excellent feature of this binding is the arrangement of
the toe and heel straps, which allow all necessary vertical movement
of the foot, yet at the same time provide a fairly rigid strong,
and reasonably light foot attachment. When fitted with the Ellefsen
tightening clamp, and it is a good plan to order the Huitfeldt model
so equipped, the skis are easily put on and taken off. A large number
of experts prefer this binding above all others, but the Huitfeldt
type of binding may be made by the skier if desired. Any metalworker
or blacksmith can supply the metal toe pieces, and the binding may be
completed by adding suitable straps, or the foot may be secured at the
heel by leather thongs.
The Skiing Stick
While there are occasions when the proficient ski runner can dispense
with the stick, as in jumping and practicing many fancy turns and
swings, a good stick must be reckoned a valuable implement for climbing
and downhill running, and often a help on a level. The beginner should
not depend too much upon the stick, however, but should acquire the
knack of handling the skis without this aid early in his practice. In
short, the novice should practice both with and without the stick, that
he may learn all the little points of balancing the body unaided, but
every skier ought to know how to use the stick, that he may rely upon
its assistance whenever necessary.
[Illustration: FIG. 3
Skiing Sticks with Staff of Bamboo or Hard Wood Having an Easily
Removable Aluminum Washer]
The use of two sticks may be of help for mountain climbing, but the
majority of ski runners consider one stout stick to be of more real
service. For downhill running, the extra stick is of no value whatever,
but rather a hindrance, the one stick being all that is required for
braking. In choosing a stick, its height may be such that it will reach
to the shoulders of the skier, although many prefer a shorter one. On
the average, a stick 5 ft. long will be found about right for most
persons, while a proportionately shorter stick will be required for
boys and girls. Bamboo of good quality is generally preferred, since
it is light, elastic, and very stiff and strong. Hardwood sticks are a
trifle heavier, but if fashioned from straight-grain hickory, or ash,
are as satisfactory as the bamboo. In any case, the end of the stick
should be provided with a metal ice peg, and a ferrule to strengthen
the wood at this point. A few inches above the peg a ring, or disk,
is fastened, and this “snow washer” serves to keep the stick from
sinking too deeply into the snow. Wicker rings, secured with thongs
or straps, are much used, as are also disks of metal and hard rubber.
A decided improvement over these materials has been brought out in a
cup-shaped snow washer made of aluminum, which is flexible and fastened
to the stick with clamps so that it can be easily shifted or removed
at will. This feature is a good one, since the washer is often useful
for assisting braking in soft snow, but is likely to catch and throw
the runner if used upon crusted snow, hence the detachable arrangement
is of value in that it supplies an easy way to take off the washer
whenever desired. The sticks are shown in Fig. 3.
Necessities of the Skier’s Outfit
For skiing an ordinary pair of heavy-soled lace shoes that fit well
are suitable, but to keep the heel strap of a binding from slipping,
the shoes should have broad, concave heels, or a small strap and
buckle, firmly sewed in place at the extreme end of the heel, should
be fitted to them. Personally, I prefer the heel strap to the special
heel, but any cobbler can fit the shoes with either one. Specially
designed skiing shoes, or boots, as shown in Fig. 4, are to be had at
the sporting-goods dealers’, and while good, are somewhat expensive,
because most of them are imported. Of course, shoes for skiing must be
amply large so that one or two pairs of woolen socks may be worn; two
pairs of thin, woolen stockings being less bulky and very much warmer
than one extremely heavy pair.
[Illustration: FIG. 4
Specially Designed Skiing Boots, Handmade for the Sport, with and
without Heel Buckles]
For clothing, the soft, smooth finish of the regulation mackinaw
garments cannot be improved upon for outdoor winter wear, although any
suitable material will serve as well. Smooth-finish material is the
best in all cases, because cloth of rough texture will cause the snow
to stick and make it uncomfortable. Regulation mackinaw trousers, split
at the bottom and fastened with tapes to tie close to the ankle, are
as good as any, over which cloth puttees, or leggings, may be worn to
keep out the snow. For the coat, a mackinaw, made Norfolk-style, with
belt and flap pockets secured with a button, has given me the most
satisfaction. For ladies, close-fitting knickerbockers and leggings are
generally preferred when a short skirt is worn.
How to Make Skis
To anyone who can use a saw and plane, the making of a pair of nicely
balanced and durable skis is a very easy job. Ski making is far easier
than snowshoe construction, since each runner is made from a single
piece of plank, and no intricate filling is required. In choosing the
wood, either hickory or ash will give satisfaction, because both are
heavy woods, as well as strong and flexible, and may be worked down
much thinner than birch, fir, or other materials. If it is desired to
fashion the skis from the rough material, procure two ash, or hickory,
planks, about 9 ft. long and 2 in. thick. Should the maker wish to
hew his own material, select a sound and straight tree, about 10 in.
in diameter, free from knots for at least 10 ft., and fell it during
the winter. Place the log in the crotch of a stump and cut a groove
along its length with the ax, taking pains that the groove is straight
and about 1 in. in depth. Turn the log over and make a like groove in
the opposite side. Rap the bottom of the grooves lightly with the ax,
to start the split, and drive in small wood wedges, gradually working
them along as the wood splits. At some points the wood will very likely
split away from the groove, but by cutting these fibers, the split may
be kept along the grooves. As the strongest and best grain of the wood
will lie closest to the bark, only enough of the outside should be hewn
away to make a flat surface, for this is to be the running surface of
the ski. Skis may be made in any length and width, but for a man of
good height, 7 to 8 ft. is the correct length. In Fig. 5 is given a
complete layout pattern for an 8-ft. ski, and from the dimensions it
is an easy matter to fashion skis longer or shorter by making use of
these well-balanced proportions. While the plan of the ski may be drawn
directly on the plank, it is an excellent idea to make a paper pattern,
and laying this down on the board, trace around it to get the correct
outline.
[Illustration: FIG. 5
A Complete Layout Pattern for an Eight-Foot Ski: From These Dimensions
It Is an Easy Matter to Fashion Skis Longer or Shorter by Making Use of
These Well-Balanced Proportions]
[Illustration: FIG. 6
The Wood is Selected by the Way in Which the Growth of the Grain Runs]
When purchasing the sawed material, the buyer should endeavor to obtain
a plank which has been sawed out from the lower portion of the trunk
of the tree, from the outside. The dealer will not be able to assist
in choosing lumber for this particular purpose, hence the buyer should
know something about the growth of good wood in the tree, and how to
pick out this desirable material by noting the run of the grain. This
is very well shown in Fig. 6. The letters A, B, and C show the run of
the grain produced by the ring growth of the tree, and D, E, and F
indicate the appearance of rings, in the run of the grain seen in the
sawed plank. The best possible choice for wood is represented by A and
D, because the layers of good and elastic wood run deep, and there is
practically no soft layers of punky wood. That represented by B and E,
and that of C and F, contain a larger percentage of soft layers, and
while skis can be, and often are, fashioned from this kind of material,
the wood is less strong and flexible than that of wood showing the
grain as A and D, hence the latter should be chosen whenever it
is possible to do so. While wood of fairly close grain does not
necessarily indicate inferiority, if the material is hickory, yet if
ash is selected, the purchaser should select an open, or widely spaced,
grain in preference to a close and even-grained plank. And this is so
because in all trees the grain represents the more quickly grown soft
wood--formed in the period of greatest growth, which is in the spring
and summer months--hence the more grain present in the plank and the
closer it runs, the more soft and punky wood is present, and the less
durable the material will be for the purpose.
When drawing the dimensions on green, or partly seasoned, timber, a
certain amount of shrinkage will occur, hence be sure to allow for this
and make the width about ¹⁄₄ in. greater. When working seasoned lumber,
this need not be taken into consideration.
After the outline of the ski has been sawed out, the bottom, or running
surface, should be planed perfectly smooth, with the grain running
straight and true from the point to the heel. The ski should be worked
down to the desired dimensions before bending, and from the top, or
upper, side only, never from the running surface. When the correct
thickness has been reached, the bend at the point may be put in by
soaking the wood well to make it pliable. This is most easily done by
heating water in a wash boiler, and when the water boils, place the ski
across the top and thoroughly soak the wood by mopping with the boiling
water, using a cloth tied to a stick. That the bend may be gradual and
not too abrupt, do not attempt to bend it to the desired arc at once,
but gradually work the wood and resort to numerous hot-water treatments
until a good 6-in. bend is obtained. The arch in the running surface is
easily obtained, and if bent too much, is easily straightened out when
cold. Of course, more bend must be given the skis than the actual curve
will be when finished, since the wood will straighten out somewhat
as it dries. Some kind of a form will come in handy, and this may be
furnished by making a rough frame and placing a short length of log
of the proper diameter at the bends, or the tips may be lashed, or
cleated, to the floor of the workbench. A very easy method is shown in
Fig. 7.
[Illustration: FIG. 7]
After the bends are made, the hole for the foot binding should be put
in, and if the wood has been left plenty long, the skis may be trimmed
off at the heel so that they will balance nicely when lifted by the toe
straps. This is the best way, for while a few skiers prefer to make the
heel light and weight it with lead, there is no advantage in doing so.
The groove in the exact center of the running surface should now be
cut in, which is made about ¹⁄₈ in. deep, and ³⁄₈ to ¹⁄₂ in. in width.
A grooving plane is most convenient, but a small gouge, if carefully
used, will do as well. The groove should run from the heel to the
beginning of the bend.
To finish the ski, sandpaper top and bottom smooth, and rub down with
linseed oil to which little paraffin, or beeswax, has been added. The
running surface of the ski should be finished with oil and waxed, and
it is an advantage that the entire ski be finished in the same manner,
as less snow will stick to the tops than if varnish is used. The
experienced skier is more concerned about the running qualities of his
skis than the finish, but the novice is more likely to be attracted by
fancy implements. When varnished tops are wanted, a glossy and durable
surface is obtained by brushing on a couple of coats of good spar
varnish.
A tube, or cake, of wax should be carried by every skier, for the
running surface must have numerous coatings that the snow may not stick
to the wood. Both paraffin and beeswax are suitable, and the skier may
use one of the several good preparations put up in tubes and in cakes,
or melt up his own, as preferred. A good cake, or hard, wax is made by
melting up 10 oz. of beeswax with 5 oz. of rosin. When melted, stir in
1 oz. of turpentine and pour in small boxes to form cakes of convenient
size.
The running surfaces are often waxed by rubbing the wax on and then
going over the surfaces with a hot flatiron. This is a good method,
providing only a sufficient quantity of wax has been applied. A too
liberal application of wax cannot be called a disadvantage when running
downhill, but it will make the runners so slippery that climbing uphill
is difficult.
Filling Toy Rubber Balloons with Hydrogen
[Illustration: Apparatus for Filling Toy Rubber Balloons with Hydrogen
Gas to Make Them Fly to a Great Height]
Any boy can easily convert a toy rubber balloon into a real flier by
constructing the simple device shown in the illustration for filling
it with hydrogen. Procure a clay pipe and break off the stem near the
bowl. Bore a hole in a cork, or preferably a rubber stopper, selected
to fit some bottle and insert the smaller end of the pipestem in the
hole. As the stem tapers, if the hole has been made for the smaller
end, a tight fit is assured by simply pressing the stem well into the
cork. Tie the open end of the stem on the balloon tightly over the
larger end of the pipestem, and have ready a thread to tie the stem of
the balloon when it is filled.
Procure from a local drug store 1 oz. of hydrochloric acid. Place
some nails, or better still, a few strips of zinc, in the bottle
and cover them with a little water, then pour a small quantity of
the hydrochloric acid into the bottle and assemble as shown in the
illustration. In a few minutes hydrogen gas will be given off, and if
the joints are tight, the balloon will begin to fill. After it has
expanded as much as it will stand without breaking, tie the end with
the thread, and cut off any parts of the mouthpiece that may weigh it
down. If sufficient gas has been passed into the balloon it will rise
to the ceiling. Balloons filled in this manner have risen to a height
of several hundred feet.
Caution: Do not allow the hydrochloric acid to come in contact with the
skin or clothing, as it may cause frightful burns. Do not under any
circumstance fill the balloon near a flame or allow fire to come near
the bottle.--Contributed by Ralph C. Jenkins, Manchester, Vt.
How to Polish Instrument Bases
There seems to be a feeling among mechanical and electrical
experimenters that there is something mysterious about the process of
wood finishing, and often one may see a really fine piece of apparatus
spoiled by mounting it on a shellacked baseboard. I have found that it
is a very simple matter to produce almost a piano finish on all woods,
even those as soft as poplar, in the following manner. Quick-drying
wood dyes should be avoided. Simply rub down a piece of ordinary
water-color cake into some plain water and apply freely with a rag,
rubbing it in well. Any color may be obtained in this way, but if this
is not convenient, use an oil stain made quite thin with turpentine.
Next apply a thin coat of shellac, which should be sandpapered when it
is dry. A coat of ordinary varnish is then applied, and when this is
thoroughly dried, rub lightly with fine steel wool. One coat of varnish
may be sufficient, although several coats will produce a richer finish.
Rub the last coats down well with an oily rag dipped in some abrasive
material, such as tooth powder or metal polish, and finish with a
simple oil rub. A beautiful, soft, transparent effect may be obtained
in this way on very ordinary woods. Any open-grained woods, such as
oak, must be filled with a paste filler after staining.--Contributed by
John D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.
Locating Droplight in the Dark
[Illustration: The Cord Fastened to the Door Casing is Easily Located
and Followed to the Lamp]
A simple device for locating a droplight can be had by putting a
nail or screw eye into the side of the door casing, high enough to
clear persons passing under it, but within easy reach of an uplifted
hand, and running a cord from it to the light. It is not difficult
to locate the cord attached to the casing and to follow it to the
light.--Contributed by H. S. Craig, Rushford, Minnesota.
* * * * *
¶If kerosene oil is used when drilling, reaming, or turning malleable
iron, it will make the work much smoother.
How to Make an Experimental Lead Screw
[Illustration: A Copper Wire Wrapped around and Soldered to a Straight
Rod for a Lead Screw]
Often in experimental work a long, narrow, parallel screw is desired
for regulating, or moving, some part of the apparatus in a straight
line. A simple way of making such a screw is to tin thoroughly a small
straight rod of the required length and diameter. After wiping off
all the surplus solder while it is yet hot, wrap it with a sufficient
length of bright copper wire and fasten the ends. This wire is then
securely soldered in place by running the solder on while holding the
screw over a blue gas flame. To make the solder run freely, brush
frequently during the heating with a small mucilage brush dipped into
the soldering acid. An even pitch can be secured by winding on two
wires side by side at the same time, the second one being unwound
before soldering.
Self-Setting Rat Trap
[Illustration: The Paper Stretched over the Barrel Top was Cut after
Feeding the Rats on It for Some Time]
A suburbanite successfully trapped a bunch of rats by stretching a
piece of stout elastic paper on the top of an open barrel. Spreading
food on this paper he allowed it to remain until the suspicions of the
rats were allayed, then he cut two right-angled slashes in the paper
with a razor. Next morning he found seven of the pests in the barrel.
Smoker’s Cabinet or Cellarette
[Illustration: The Smoker’s Cabinet Makes an Attractive Addition to the
Furniture of a Den, and should be Made Up and Finished to Match Other
Pieces of the Room]
This design, when completed, takes up a wall space 20 in. wide by 31
in. high, and extends out 14 in. The material necessary for it is as
follows:
2 sides, ⁷⁄₈ by 14 by 31 in.
1 back, ³⁄₄ by 14 by 28¹⁄₈ in.
1 bottom, ⁷⁄₈ by 14 by 20 in.
1 top, ⁷⁄₈ by 10¹⁄₄ by 18³⁄₄ in.
1 bottom shelf, ⁷⁄₈ by 10¹⁄₄ by 14 in.
Door:
2 stiles, ³⁄₄ by 2 by 14¹⁄₂ in.
2 rails, ³⁄₄ by 2 by 10 in. (not including tenons, if such are
desired).
1 panel, ³⁄₈ by 10³⁄₄ by 11¹⁄₄ in.
Upper drawer:
1 front, ³⁄₄ by 4 by 14 in.
1 back, ³⁄₈ by 3¹⁄₄ by 13¹⁄₂ in.
2 sides, ¹⁄₂ by 4 by 9⁷⁄₈ in.
1 bottom, ³⁄₈ by 9⁵⁄₈ by 13¹⁄₂ in.
Lower drawer:
1 front, ³⁄₄ by 5 by 14 in.
1 back, ³⁄₈ by 4¹⁄₄ by 13¹⁄₂ in.
2 sides, ¹⁄₂ by 5 by 12⁷⁄₈ in.
1 bottom, ³⁄₈ by 12⁵⁄₈ by 13¹⁄₂ in.
1 piece for keys, ³⁄₄ by 2¹⁄₄ by 6¹⁄₄ in.
1 pair hinges.
2 drawer pulls.
Screws and nails.
In constructing the cabinet, the outer frame should first be made. The
sides can be laid out and cut to the desired design. The top and bottom
crosspieces should then be squared up, and the tenons cut as shown,
the bottom tenons extending farther, to balance the design. The top
is set in ³⁄₄ in. from the back edge. Holes should be marked and cut
for the ³⁄₄-in. keys, after which the four parts may be assembled, and
suitable keys driven in place. The back for the cabinet is made from
³⁄₄-in. material, squared up to fit between the sides, and be flush
with their top edges while resting on the bottom crosspiece. It can be
fastened in place with nails. The top and bottom pieces of the cabinet
proper can then be made, and secured in place with round-head screws,
after which the door may be made and fitted. The stiles and rails of
the door should be rabbeted for a ³⁄₈-in. square groove, to hold the
panel in place. The frame can be made sufficiently strong, if properly
glued and held together with dowel pins passing through the stiles into
the rails. If it is desired to fasten the frame with tenons, an extra
amount must be added to the length of the rails given in the stock
list. The panel should not be glued in place, as the shrinkage of the
wood will cause it to crack.
In making the drawers, the front should be rabbeted for a groove to fit
the drawer bottom, and sidepieces can be fitted and nailed in place.
These should be rabbeted for grooves, into which the bottom and end
pieces fit.
If the cabinet is finished in mission style, or fumed oak, hammered
copper or brass hinges and drawer pulls will go well with the general
appearance of the design.
[Illustration: Skis and Ski-running Running, Jumping and Climbing
By Stillman Taylor]
Part II
Before the beginner makes the attempt to ski, he should see that his
complete outfit is perfectly suited to his purpose. The shoes should
be nicely adjusted to fit snugly between the metal toe plates of the
binding, and new holes should be punched in the straps wherever needed
to adjust the harness snugly and comfortably to the feet. Many of the
positions required in executing the various turns and swings may be
practiced at home, that the novice may get some idea of the correct
position of the feet and body assumed by expert skiers. For the initial
practice outside, it is a good plan to select a frosty day when the
snow is old and settled by the wind. This will introduce the novice
to the sport under favorable conditions, while if the first trials
are made shortly after a heavy snowfall, or upon a mild day when the
snow is thawing, only discouragement will be experienced. Begin with
one stick--or two if timid--and pick out an easy-sloping hill with a
gradual run to the level ground. A few scattered trees and rocks will
do no harm, for it is a good plan to learn how to avoid them from the
beginning.
How to Turn on Skis
This and the correct manner of standing on skis are easily mastered
if the beginner will but remember that the weight of the body should
rest largely upon the advanced foot without bending the body at the
ankle too much, or raising the heel from the ski. This is the correct
position to assume when standing for a rest and for sliding, and this
as well as turning should be practiced on the level. To make the kick
turn, simply raise the point of the ski until the heel rests on the
snow, as shown in Fig. 1. Swing the ski around by turning the point out
and back until the two skis are point to heel, as shown in Fig. 2. When
this, the most difficult position of the three, is assumed, raise the
point of the other ski as high as convenient to avoid tripping, keep
the heel down and swing the ski around over the heel of the other until
both are facing in the same direction, as shown in Fig. 3. A little
practice will make it possible for the novice to turn quickly, and
if all turns are made with the advanced foot, when practicing on the
level, no trouble will be experienced later on in attempting to turn on
a steep slope. The stick is really indispensable for this practice, and
while two may be used, the single stick will be found assistance enough
for any active person.
When skiing on level ground the correct movement is rather more of a
slide than the motion used in walking or skating. The body is thrown
forward on one ski and the slide is made with both feet, most of the
body weight being thrown on the advanced ski, while the rear foot is
slid forward without stopping the forward travel, as shown in Fig. 4.
The expert skier moves forward in long gliding steps without raising
the ski, but bending the knees slightly to slide the ski ahead. The
feet should be kept as close together as possible to make a narrow
track and the stick used to lengthen the slide. At the beginning it
is a good plan to endeavor to make a long slide with each advancement
of the foot, rather than strive to take long steps. The speed of
level running depends, of course, upon the condition of the snow. On
hard, well-packed snow, sliding is easiest and greater speed obtained,
while in deep and soft snow less speed is the rule. When skiing on the
hard snow of a road, four miles an hour is the average speed, and for
average level running, the skier will cover about the same distance as
when walking along a good path.
[Illustration:
FIG. 1
Raise the Point of the Ski until the Heel Rests on the Snow
FIG. 9
The Skier Runs Straight Downhill on One Ski and Uses the Other as a
Brake
FIG. 2
Swing the Ski Around by Turning the Point Out and Back
FIG. 8
On Hard Snow the Edges of the Skis may be Used to Check the Speed
FIG. 3
Raise the Point of the Other Ski as High as Convenient to Avoid Tripping
FIG. 7
When Running Downhill One Ski should Be in Advance of the Other a Few
Inches
FIG. 4
The Body is Thrown Forward on One Ski and the Slide is Made with Both
Feet
FIG. 6
The Herringbone is Much Used When the Skier Wishes to Travel up a Short
and Steep Incline
FIG. 5
The Skier Naturally Places His Skis at Right Angles Rather than Permit
the Slipping Backward]
When traveling uphill, the regular sliding gait will suffice if the
slope is gradual, but when a steep grade is encountered and the ski
slips backward, the skier stands quite erect, raises the point of his
ski about 3 in., and slaps it down smartly, without pulling it backward
or making any attempt to push his body forward with the stick. This
slap of the ski makes the smooth surface of the runner adhere better
than when the runner is slid forward in the usual manner. If the
hill is very steep, the skier will naturally place his skis at right
angles rather than permit the slipping backward. This is known as
“side-stepping,” and is shown in Fig. 5. In doing this, the heel of the
ski must be raised clear of the snow and the upper foot lifted uphill,
then the lower foot brought up to the last step of the upper foot,
hence it is extremely tiring for other than a short distance.
A variation of this movement, which is known to skiers as the “half
side step.” and which is made by advancing the foot with the legs
somewhat wider apart, and the skis placed at not quite so acute an
angle with the hill, is more useful when climbing the ordinary steep
grade and is far less laborious. If the skier knows how to handle his
implements, side-stepping may be done backward when necessary.
The “herringbone” is another step which is much used when the skier
wishes to travel up a short and steep incline. This step is made by
stretching the legs rather wide apart and pointing the toes out, as
shown in Fig. 6, at a decided angle, so that the knees are bent inward
and the inside edges of the skis cut into the snow. A variation of
this is the “half herringbone,” the skis being turned out at a less
acute angle. These special steps for special purposes are all useful
now and then in mountain climbing, but when a long distance is to be
covered, the skier will conserve his energy by mounting the hill in a
zigzag fashion rather than attempting to climb straight up. The track
of the skier will then resemble the course of a boat tacking through a
narrow inlet against a head of wind, and while more ground is covered
than when going straight up the steepest part of the hill, progress is
faster and much hard work is avoided.
When running straight downhill, one ski should be in advance of the
other a few inches, and the skis must be held quite close together so
that they touch, or nearly so, as shown in Fig. 7. To make a narrow
track, most expert skiers hold the knees together with the back knee
slightly bent. However, the body should be perfectly and easily
balanced. This is done, more or less, intuitively, by beginning the
run with the body thrown on the advanced foot, and when full speed is
attained the weight automatically shifts to the rear foot. The novice
will find it difficult at first to keep the skis together, there being
an almost uncontrollable desire to separate them to gain a better
balance. A good track will come with a little practice, but if the
skis are too short, or made without a groove, even an expert would be
compelled to keep his feet a trifle apart and make a double track in
order to keep from falling.
[Illustration: FIG. 10
The Christiania Swing is Accomplished by Pressing with Both Heels at
the Same Time While the Stick Digs Well into the Snow Above]
When making the start preparatory for coasting downhill, the novice
may, if the slope is moderately steep, face in the desired direction
and assume the proper position by supporting himself with the stick.
On most very steep slopes, where the best coasting is to be had, this
is quite out of the question, and the skier must step around quickly
by moving the lower ski first. This will be somewhat difficult to do
until the novice gains more confidence, which will quickly come after
a little practice, and it is a good plan to practice starting from the
slope without the aid of the stick to anchor the body. Owing to the
fact that the skis do not reach much speed at the start of the coast,
even the slow novice will have plenty of time to make the turn and face
in the right direction before much speed is attained. A comparatively
crouching position, secured by bending the knees and the body at
the waist, will much lessen the liability of a fall forward. This
position enables the skier to control the balance of his body with more
certainty, and especially when coasting on a hill where patches of ice,
or crusted snow, and soft spots of unpacked snow are encountered, a
condition usually found wherever skiing is enjoyed. When coasting, the
stick, or sticks, should be firmly grasped at the upper end with the
looped thong, or strap, over the wrist, and the end dragging behind.
Balancing is done entirely at the waist, and for straightaway running,
the weight of the body will rest largely upon the rear ski. The long
running surface of the ski will carry the skier over many bumps and
hollows without disturbing the balance of the body or causing a fall,
providing the novice does not lose his nerve. It is necessary to
practice on rough and uneven ground if the skier desires ever to attain
much expertness, and plenty of falls must be expected, but not dreaded
by the beginner. A fall on skis is by no means fraught with danger,
and one may fall with impunity providing all muscles are relaxed. Many
beginners find falling the easiest manner of stopping, but this should
not be necessary, providing the hints given are well understood and
practiced. However, the novice should have no fear of falling if he
wants to become proficient on skis, and to offset any timidity, which
so very often causes the novice to lean backward and fall in this
direction, it is a good plan to lean well forward to check this natural
tendency. Getting up after a fall is easily enough managed if the
head is pointing up the slope, but when the position is reversed much
floundering is necessitated. It would seem that this would be obvious
to all, yet the majority of beginners often forget it altogether.
Braking with the stick is only effective when the body is properly
balanced, and the stick is kept well forward and as nearly vertical as
possible. Straddling the stick, sitting upon it, or leaning backward
on it held at an angle, are slovenly methods which every novice should
avoid.
The “snowplow” is most largely used by all good skiers for braking,
stopping, and turning. This is accomplished by stretching the legs wide
apart and at the same time turning the toes in as much as possible,
thus presenting the side of the ski to the snow and retarding the
speed. Aside from straddling the legs wide apart, the novice will have
no trouble in learning this useful knack. For the first practice, pick
out a fairly steep hill road, or a hillside where the snow is old and
not soft. Begin the run as for coasting, and when good speed has been
attained, spread the legs wide apart, turn the toes in and endeavor to
control the speed with the skis rather than depend upon the stick. On
hard snow the edges of the ski may be used to check the speed, but on
ordinary soft and well-packed snow, the runner may be kept quite flat.
This is well shown in Fig. 8.
The knack of “stemming” is a variation of the snowplow, inasmuch as
the skier runs straight downhill on one ski, and turns the heel of the
other ski outward and downward and uses it as a brake, as in Fig. 9.
This is a very useful movement, and is largely used when coasting down
steep slopes, and when one has learned the knack of it, stemming will
serve for braking and steering, and is useful for stopping by turning
the skiing course uphill. To earn it, select a steep hillside, coast
down at an angle, with the feet a trifle part, and endeavor to retard
the speed with the stick and turn the heel of the lower ski outward.
This makes the turn and the skier faces uphill and comes to a stop. By
turning the heel of the lower ski outward and the heel of the upper ski
inward, the skis will travel downhill with a sort of snowplow movement.
When practicing these movements, the beginner should endeavor to use
the stick as little as possible and learn to depend upon the skis for
controlling the speed.
The “side slip” is useful on steep slopes, and is done by turning the
skis so that the runners are at a decided angle to the course traveled.
This affords the maximum braking by the skis alone, and is especially
effective when combined with the braking done with the stick.
Side-slipping may, of course, be done while the skier is traveling
forward, by keeping the skis close together so that the edges almost
touch. While this movement checks the speed in much the same manner as
stemming, side-slipping is less tiresome, since the weight of the body
gives the required braking effect, while, in stemming, the muscles are
called upon to keep the heel pressing outward.
[Illustration: FIG. 11
The Swing is Made upon One Ski Instead of Using Both as in the
Christiania Swing]
Closely akin to side-slipping is the Christiania swing with the stick,
which is accomplished by pressing with both heels at the same time,
while the stick digs well into the snow above. This variation of the
side slip is easily done, and the skier is turned sharply uphill to
come to a quick stop. When a sharp hill is met with, that is considered
a bit too steep to take straight, this swing with the stick may be made
by taking a zigzag course down grade steering clear of any obstacles
by snowplowing, stemming, or side-slipping; and turning the corners,
or “tacking,” by making use of the Christiania swing and the stick, as
shown in Fig. 10.
The “S”-turn may likewise be used for turning corners, without the
necessity for stopping to make the ordinary kick turn. A good way to
learn this useful movement is to run straight downhill in a snowplow
position, reduce the speed to a comfortable walking pace with the
stick, and stem with the ski. If this is done with the right ski, the
“S”-turn is made by throwing practically the whole weight of the body
on the right ski, at the heel, and pressing it outward while the stick
is carried ahead and below the skier. If the heels are kept well apart,
and the toes close together, the skier will have no trouble about
swinging around in a curve and be off on the other tack. About the only
difficulty in making the “S”-turn is the position of the body, which
must be thrown somewhat out and away from the hill. To the novice this
at first seems to invite a fall, but a few trials will soon prove that
the weight of the body must be thrown on the foot which circles on the
outside of the curve, hence the apparently unnatural position of the
body is essential for a good turn. By bringing the stick well forward
and downhill, the skier uses his staff as a pivot upon which the turn
is made.
The Christiania swing, made without the stick, is a favorite with
expert ski runners when running on rough and steep ground and is a good
way of stopping. The swing may be made both to the right and left. To
make it to the right, keep the skis close together, the right a trifle
in advance, with the weight of the body equally on both feet and with
knees slightly bent. Now throw the weight more forward and upon the
toes, while the heels are carried forward and outward to the left.
The body must lean to the right--the direction in which the swing is
made--and twisted somewhat at the waist; and the sharper the turn, the
more the body must lean sideways to keep the balance. The swing to the
left is made in the, same fashion, only the left ski should be a trifle
advanced and the body thrown to the left.
[Illustration: FIG. 12
To Make the Jump the Skier Assumes the Easy Position Required for
Coasting Downhill]
The Telemark swing is more difficult to master than the Christiania
swing, because it is done on one foot, or ski, instead of using both,
and as it is less powerful than the latter, it is of far less use for
stopping. To make the Telemark swing to the right, assume the regular
position for downhill coasting, and, advancing the left foot, turn
the ski so that it rests on its edge as when making the snowplow,
throw the body to the right and lean in toward the slope to keep the
balance. To make the swing to the left, advance the right foot, turn
the body to the left and lean as before. This is shown in Fig. 11. The
Telemark turn is, in fact, made in the same manner as stemming, and
the sharpness of the swing rests altogether upon the quickness with
which the heel is thrown outward and the body turned in the direction
the skier desires to swing. The swing is made upon one ski, and the
key to the whole swing is the knack of raising the heel of the other
foot off its ski until it rests upon the toes. That this is hard to do
goes with the telling, and the novice should first acquire the knack of
balancing by running straight downhill with the weight thrown on one
foot. When this can be done, and not before then, the skier is ready
to practice the turn. The Telemark swing, like all other turns, is
easily acquired at slow and moderate speeds, and becomes more and more
difficult to make as the speed is increased and the turn is made more
sharply and quickly.
Jumping on skis is one of the most exhilarating winter sports, and it
is a pity that it is not more popular wherever a medium-heavy fall of
snow occurs. While touring on skis across a hilly country, there will
be many natural jumps to encounter, for drifts, stumps, rocks, and
other rises in the ground, when well covered and padded with snow, make
good jumping-off places. While but a few skiers may have attempted
such high leaps as the famous Holmenkollen, Fiskertorpet, or Foldberg,
all who have done much ski running have done a little jumping, since,
when running downhill, an unexpected dip is often encountered, and a
rise in the ground causes the skier to leave the ground for a short
distance and alight several feet below. Doubtless the skier has enjoyed
the flying-like sensation of this brief moment, and very likely he has
climbed the hill to repeat the jump. Moreover, this has very likely
demonstrated that the distance of the jump depends upon the height of
the dip, the speed of the skier passing over it, and likewise upon the
spring of the body on the take-off. In making a jump of any height, the
take-off may be level, pointing up or even downhill, and constructed
with framework extending out from the hillside, or consist merely of
a large boulder, or a pile of logs, well padded with snow. The height
of the slope chosen will, of course, regulate the distance of the
jump, and the place where the jumper alights should be fairly steep,
since, if the skier lands upon a level place great difficulty will
be experienced in keeping the balance, therefore the usual jumping
hill, where jumping competitions are held, is provided with a 30°, or
steeper, landing place, and this merges gradually into the outrun, or
slope, connecting the hill with the level ground below.
[Illustration: FIG. 13
Each Member of the Party should be Provided with a Ruck Sack of Good
Capacity]
For the safety of the skier, the snow should be firm but not icy or
hard, and this is easily done by packing the snow down well by means
of the skis. A good, thick padding of snow is of course essential, and
a thickness of 2 ft. is really needed at the landing place and at the
take-off. In our more northerly sections, plenty of snow usually falls,
but wherever a few sportsmen get together, it is an easy matter to
shovel sufficient snow to prepare a good and safe jumping hill.
To gain confidence and acquire some useful experience in jumping, the
novice should practice leaping from a 2-ft. rise and gradually increase
the height of the take-off by piling more snow upon it to increase
its height. One or two packing cases firmly placed upon a smooth,
steep hillside, and well padded with 2 ft. of well-trodden snow,
will make a nice take-off. For the beginning the take-off may point
slightly downhill or be fashioned level, and as the skier becomes more
proficient, snow may be added to the edge so that the take-off will
send the jumper well up into the air.
The knack of jumping is nothing more than balancing the body upon
alighting, and the steeper the landing place the easier it is to keep
the balance. To make the jump in good form, the skier assumes the easy
position required for coasting downhill, as shown in Fig. 12. When
within a dozen yards of the take-off the body is lowered until the
skier is in a crouching position with the arms extending back as in
the act of jumping. Arriving within a couple of yards of the dip the
body and arms are thrown forward, which transfers the weight of the
body upon the toes, and the body is straightened up and the arms are
raised not unlike the wings of a bird, to keep the perfect balance of
the body. The straightening up of the body, known to skiers as “the
sats,” is the leap proper and must be timed so that the body assumes an
erect position when the jumper is not less than 12 ft. from the edge of
the take-off. The beginner will invariably jump too late, but after a
little practice, and profiting by numerous mistakes, the take-off will
be timed correctly. Alighting after a jump is best done by advancing
one ski a trifle to keep the balance, and bending the knees a bit to
lessen the impact. The jumper ends with the Telemark or Christiania
swing.
When taking tours of any length on skis, each member of the party
should be provided with a ruck sack of good capacity. That of the
expanding type, made with two outside pockets, and with gores at the
sides, is a good, sensible pack. It should be made of 8-oz. waterproof
khaki and fitted with shoulder straps of good width, to prevent chafing
the shoulders. Leather ruck sacks are sometimes used, but are heavier
in weight and more expensive but no better. One member of the party
should carry some kind of repairing outfit, consisting of an awl,
a length of leather thong, a few spare straps and a stout cord, or
string. These sacks are shown in Fig. 13.
Knife, Fork, and Spoon Holder
[Illustration: The Holder Keeps the Cutlery in a Position for Easy
Selection and Grasping]
The holder is made of a piece of sheet copper of sufficient thickness
to support the number of pieces of cutlery used. The piece is notched
to admit the different pieces, and its back edge is bent at right
angles to provide means of fastening it to a support, a wall or the
back of the kitchen cabinet. It will save space, as well as time, since
it is much easier to grasp one of the articles when wanted than if they
are kept in a drawer.--Contributed by L. E. Turner, New York City.
Making Round Rods for Fish Poles
In looking forward to the enjoyment that may be had in the spring, it
is well to prepare and overhaul the fishing apparatus or the shooting
equipment. In doing so, it may be necessary to make a joint for the
fish rod or perhaps a rod for the gun. These can be easily cut if
they are sized and run through holes made in a piece of thin metal as
follows: Make several holes of the desired sizes in a steel plate, and
ream them out with a rather dull taper reamer, so as to leave a bur on
one side. This bur should be filed down almost level with the surface
of the metal, leaving the edges flat and sharp. If a rod of wood from
which the article is to be made is put in a hole and drawn through from
the opposite side to the bur, a nice round rod will result. As the rod
becomes smaller, use a smaller hole until the required diameter is
obtained. A saw plate that is not too thin is about the proper thing
to use for the steel plate. It will be necessary to draw the temper to
make the holes, but it is not necessary to retemper it after the holes
are made.
* * * * *
¶Celery keeps well in a small box of dry sand.
[Illustration]
A Ski Sled
BY GEORGE J. EGELBERG
The sled is built low and wide so that it will not tip easily. The
skis, or runners, are cut 10 ft. long and 6 in. wide, from 1-in. ash
boards that are straight-grained. At the points where the curve is to
be formed, plane off about ¹⁄₄ in. on the upper side, but do not plane
off any at the very tip end. This will allow the skis to be more easily
bent. If it is not handy to steam the skis, put them in boiling water,
and be sure that at least 1¹⁄₂ ft. of the points are covered. Provide
a cover for the vessel, so that only very little steam may escape. Let
them boil for at least one hour. A good method of bending the points
is shown. When the skis are taken from the water, put them as quickly
as possible in the bending blocks, side by side, and bend them with a
slow, even pressure. Weight the extending ends and leave the skis in
the blocks 8 or 10 hours to dry. Sharpen the points after they are bent.
[Illustration: The Runners are Shaped Like a Ski and are Joined
Together with Knees for the Top Board]
The sled will run easier if the skis have a slight rocker curve. To
make this curve, have the center block 6 in. while the two end blocks
are 5¹⁄₂ in. high. A ¹⁄₄-in. flat-head bolt is run through the ski, the
block, and the cross strip. The holes are countersunk in the surface
for the heads of the bolts. The top is made of three 6-in. boards,
fastened to the crosspieces. It is a good plan to brace the tips of the
skis with a 2-in. strip.
Clocks for the Craftsman
[Illustration: An Ordinary Alarm Clock Mounted in a Wood Base Made
in Elaborate Designs to Resemble a Timepiece of High Value; yet
Inexpensive to Make]
Three designs of clocks are shown, which can be easily made in oak, or
other wood, that will match other furniture. The sizes of the pieces
required are given by the dimensions in the drawings.
The clock is a matter of choice. Prices in most stores range from 75
cents up and the works are of the ordinary alarm-clock variety. After
selecting the clock the small legs as well as the back plate are
removed. The hole cut in the wood for the clock must be a snug fit, and
after placing it in position, the back plate is replaced.
The finish may be a wax or gloss, as desired, and directions for
applying it will be found on the can containing the material.
A Compact Galvanometer
A small portable galvanometer is one of the most useful instruments to
the electrical experimenter. There are continually arising instances
where it is necessary to test through and identify certain wires, for
which purpose a small galvanometer and a dry cell are quite sufficient.
For comparing the resistances by the well-known Wheatstone-bridge
method, a galvanometer is, of course, indispensable. If the winding is
made suitable, or by placing a shunt across the terminals to reduce
the deflection, a small galvanometer will roughly indicate the current
passing and thus enable one to compare his dry cells and eliminate the
weak ones. Rough voltage comparisons may also be made by placing a
resistance in series with the galvanometer.
For constructing this instrument, a good pocket compass, of about 2-in.
diameter, must be procured. Prepare a neat little box with the four
edges accurately beveled off. On the under side of this, carefully
cut a channel, about ¹⁄₂ in. wide and 2¹⁄₂ in. long, to a depth that
will bring the bottom of the slot within ¹⁄₈ in. of the top of the
base block. Place two binding posts on the base, as indicated, and
secure the compass in place with cement, or by two very small nails
put through the bottom. If the glass cannot be removed, it will be
necessary to solder the nail heads to the bottom of the compass box,
after having carefully removed the lacquer.
The correct wiring will depend on the strength of the current handled.
It is, however, very easy to get an idea of what the deflection will
be under certain conditions by merely making a preliminary trial,
after winding a few turns of any magnet or bell wire at hand around
a small piece of wood, and slipping the coil so formed into the slot
on the under side of the base block. The winding may be from two or
three turns of heavy wire up to several hundred turns of fine magnet
wire, but after one or two trials, the maker will have no trouble in
determining his particular requirements.
[Illustration: Galvanometer Made of a Compass Set on a Wood Base, with
Coil and Wire Connections]
The final coil should be wound lengthwise on a wood core, and the whole
packed neatly into the slot. Connect up the ends to the binding posts,
and then glue in a thin piece to hold the coil in place.
By drilling a small horizontal hole through the base, as indicated
by the two dotted lines in the top view of the working drawings,
and inserting a small bar magnet, ¹⁄₈ in. in diameter, or less, the
instrument may be rendered independent of the earth’s magnetism and
used without reference to the north point. Such a controlling magnet
reduces the time required to bring the needle to rest after it has been
violently reflected.
* * * * *
¶Woodwork about a house, when primed with white lead made quite thin
in raw linseed oil, will never blister unless moisture gets back of
it. Yellow-ocher priming will cause blistering at any time up to 20
years.
A Perpetual Calendar
[Illustration: It is Only Necessary to Change the Sliding Pieces to Set
the Calendar for Each Month]
It is only necessary to set this calendar the first of each month, by
sliding the insertions up or down, to get the proper month or week.
The calendar, as it is shown, is set for January, 1916. Saturday is
the first day and Friday the seventh, and so on. It is not confusing
and can be read either by the day or date. If the day is known it will
show the date, and if the date is known it will show the day. The
illustration clearly shows the parts, which can be cut from heavy paper
or cardboard.
Heater for the Experimenter
A convenient small heater for heating liquids in experimental work, and
even in making a hot drink where there is no gas, can be readily made
from an ordinary oil lamp and a small round can, having a crimped-on
head or bottom. The can should be of such diameter that the prongs
of the lamp burner will hold it firmly in place. A hole should be
made in the bottom of the can. It is then placed, upside down, on the
lamp burner. If the top comes too far from the flame, cut off a strip
around the edge.--Contributed by Clarence S. H. Anderson, Worcester,
Massachusetts.
[Illustration: A Camp Chair Constitutes the Body of the Sled and the
Legs are Equipped with Runners]
A Folding Ice Sled
On a smooth ice surface, or on hard snow, the sled shown will run
easily, and a skater can push another with surprising speed by a light
push on the shoulders while the rider rests his feet on the front of
the runners. The sled is light, and it can be folded up and carried
under the arm. It is also handy for putting on the skates, or for use
in a crowded car.
Any camp stool will do for the main part of the sled. Holes are bored
in the ends of the legs to receive the lugs on the runners snugly. If
the builder is not equipped with a forge, a blacksmith will make the
runners cheaply. The sliding surfaces of the runners are smoothed with
a file.--Contributed by Thomas Lappin, Portland, Ore.
* * * * *
¶A column of water 27.6 in. will have a pressure of 1 lb. per square
inch.
Cleaning Tinware with Milk
Some housewives advise a system of dry-cleaning for tinware for the
reason that it insures a surface free from rust which is less liable
to burn. Where washing is preferred, however, a little milk added
to the water proves more satisfactory than either soap or soda, its
peculiarly solvent effect upon grease obviating all necessity for hard
scouring, which latter will wear the tin coating and gradually cause
the article to become useless for holding food and more apt to rust
into holes.--Contributed by J. E. Pouliot, Ottawa, Can.
Proper Way to Wrap Papers for Mailing
[Illustration: The Clipped Corners Prevent the Adhesive from Coming in
Contact with the Paper inclosed]
In using a homemade paper wrapper for mailing purposes cut a triangular
section from each end of it before applying the paste or mucilage. This
prevents the adhesive from oozing out at the edges and sticking to the
paper it incloses. This also permits the easy withdrawal of the paper.
Groove Cutter for Wood
Having occasion to cut some grooves in a board and not being properly
equipped for such work, I made the tool shown in the sketch. Although
rather crude in appearance it will do good work if properly made. It
consists of a handle, A, shaped to afford a comfortable grip for the
hand, and a cutter, B, made of a short piece of hacksaw blade, clamped
along the left side of the handle by the strip C, which is held with
screws. A pin, D, driven into the handle and allowed to project about
¹⁄₁₆ in., prevents the blade from sliding back under the clamp. For
guiding the blade, the arrangement F is employed. An extension, E,
is nailed on the right side of the handle, and holes made near each
end for two screws having round heads, such as may be obtained from
discarded dry batteries. These screws are for securing the sliding stop
F, which is a flat piece of hardwood with slots cut near the end for
screws to pass through to provide for adjustment.
[Illustration: Two Slots are Made with the Cutter, and the Stock
between Them Removed with a Chisel]
In use, the guide F is adjusted until it is the desired distance from
the cutter and then secured by the screws. The tool is handled like a
plane, care being taken not to bear down too hard, as the cutter may
bind and cause it to be pulled from the clamp. In cutting a groove, two
slots are cut and the stock between them removed with a chisel.
A One-Runner Sled
[Illustration: The Barrel Stave Has a Sufficient Curve to Make It Pass
Smoothly over Hard Snow]
Just an ordinary barrel stave, with a center post and a crossboard for
a seat, makes a good one-runner sled. Select a good, smooth stave for
the runner and securely fasten the upright, which is 1 ft. long, to it
in the center. The seat is made of a board, about 1¹⁄₂ ft. long, nailed
to the upper end of the upright.
Substitute for a Gas-Stove Oven
Wishing to bake a nice loaf cake one afternoon for dinner, and finding
that the fire in my range had gone out, I remembered an oven shown me
at one time for use on a small gas plate, which consisted of a cover,
a bottom piece, and a support for the pan. The thought came to me that
with all my pots and pans I ought to be able to get some results by the
combination of two pie tins, a cake pan, and a stew pan, and on trial
it baked as fine a cake as anyone could wish.
[Illustration: A Combination of Pie Tins, Cake Pan, and Stew Pan to
Make Temporary Gas-Stove Oven]
A small pie tin was placed in a larger one, as shown; on this was
placed the cake pan filled with the cake batter, and over the whole
was placed the stew pan, which acted as a heat retainer or oven. A
good hot flame was used at first, and was then gradually turned lower
until the cake was finished.--Contributed by Mrs. Anna M. B. Romig,
Allentown, Pa.
Box Cover without Hinges
[Illustration: Box Cover Using Pins Instead of Hinges to Keep It in
Place]
Two ordinary boxes may be fitted together as one without using hinges,
if nails or screws are inserted at points along the edges so that they
will slip into holes bored at corresponding points in the edges of the
other box. The nail heads or screw heads should be filed off or cut off
after being placed in position.
* * * * *
¶All metal patterns should be thoroughly cleaned with a stiff brush
having plenty of beeswax on it and dipped in powdered plumbago. Brush
the pattern well, and it will draw easily and make a smooth casting.
Sanitary Holder for Thread and Dental Floss
A simple and convenient method of protecting a spool of thread,
or dental floss, from collecting dirt and germs is shown in the
illustration. A small glass jar, with a metal screw top, is procured,
of such a size that it will easily accommodate the spool of thread
desired to protect, with at least ¹⁄₈ in. clearance all around the edge
of the spool. Procure a short piece of stiff wire, not more than ¹⁄₁₆
in. in diameter, and make a frame similar in form to the one shown. The
center portion of this frame should be just a little longer than the
spool, so that a small wood key may be placed through the eye formed
in the wire and thus hold the spool firmly on the frame. The outside
portions of the frame should be such a distance apart that they will
rest against the sides of the jar and of such a length that they will
reach from the bottom to the top of the jar when the lid is screwed
down tightly. If these dimensions are observed, the spool and frame
will remain in a fixed position in the jar.
[Illustration]
A small opening, just a little larger than the thread, is made in the
center of the lid, through which the thread is to pass. The edges of
this opening are smoothed off so that they will not cut the thread when
it is being drawn out. A small cutter may be made by forming a V-shaped
opening in the lid, through which the thread is to pass. The edges of
the V-shaped piece are sharpened to serve as a cutting edge. The end of
the thread will be held under the V-shaped piece after it is cut, thus
preventing it from falling back into the jar.
* * * * *
¶The word “diameter” when applied to gears is always understood to
mean the pitch diameter.
[Illustration: The Sporting Rifle
and How to Use It
by Stillman Taylor]
Sportsmen are interested in rifles and rifle shooting largely from
the hunting standpoint, although target shooting is a favorite sport
with many of them. This discussion of the sporting rifle will be
concerned, therefore, principally with the hunting aspects, other
forms of shooting being considered as good methods of practice, and
the development of skill in the use of hunting weapons. The novice, as
well as the good shot, must have a suitable weapon, and should have at
least a general knowledge of the types of rifles available, and their
common uses. A number of representative types of rifles are shown in
Fig. 1, and the details of the breech mechanisms and sights in Fig. 2.
Targets and a homemade device for backing them are shown in Fig. 3. The
full-page illustration shows several positions in the use of the rifle;
a moving-target arrangement, to be constructed by the ambitious shot;
a diagram of the trajectory of a rifle bullet, and several diagrams of
the vital shots, in hunting common big game.
The single-shot rifle, shown at A, Fig. 1, has been largely supplanted
by the repeater and the automatic, so far as hunting is concerned. For
use exclusively in indoor shooting, a heavy rifle of the “Schuetzen”
type is best suited. A high-grade ornamented rifle of this type is
shown in the headpiece of this article.
The most popular type of American rifle is the repeater of the
lever-action variety, shown at B. The lever action embodies many good
points: quickness of fire, ease of operation, freedom from jamming at a
critical moment, strength, and plenty of stopping power. The mechanism
of the lever-action repeating rifle is shown in detail at J, Fig. 2,
and that of the falling-breech-block type of single-shot rifle, at K.
Several other types of lever-action rifles are shown in Fig. 1.
Almost all lever-action repeaters are of the tubular-magazine type, the
magazine extending under the barrel, sometimes the full length--full
magazine; or halfway--half magazine. Rifles of these types are shown at
B and C, and a hammerless repeater at D.
The trombone, or pump-action, repeating rifle, shown at E, has a
mechanism similar to that used in the repeating shotgun, the sliding
forearm loading and ejecting the cartridge. The merit of the military
bolt-action rifle lies in its great strength and simplicity. A weapon
of this type was used by Roosevelt in Africa, and by other big-game
hunters. It is shown at F.
The chief advantages of the automatic rifle, shown at G, which is
a comparatively new weapon, are its speed in firing and its almost
noiseless action. This rifle has a recoil-operated action of the
blow-back type. That shown at H has a box magazine, and the automatic
action is based on the sliding of the barrel within a steel jacket. The
rifle shown at I may be used either as an automatic or as a pump-action
weapon.
The subject of stock and trigger adjustment is one to which every
experienced rifleman devotes considerable attention. The regular stock
rifle is built to standard dimensions, and often the stock is found a
trifle short. For the man of average reach, a 13³⁄₄-in. stock, with a
1⁷⁄₈-in. drop at the comb, and about 3 in. drop at the heel, will be
found satisfactory.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
Various Types of Rifles in Common Use: A, English Model, Single-Shot,
with Open Sights and Shotgun Butt; B, Lever-Action Repeater, Tubular
Half Magazine; C, Lever-Action Repeater, Box Magazine; D, Hammerless,
Lever-Action Repeater; E, Pump-Action, High-Power Repeater; F, Military
Bolt-Action, Sporting Model; G, Automatic, Blow-Back Action; H,
Automatic, Box Magazine; I, Automatic, Combination Pump-Action]
Rifle sights are of several types, of which there are in turn many
variations. Only the essentials of the standard types will be
considered. The regulation open sights, with which most rifles are
fitted at the factory, are the buckhorn rear and the Rocky Mountain
front sight. For a hunting rifle the most satisfactory sights are a
gold-bead front sight of about ³⁄₃₂-in. diameter, as shown in Fig. 2 at
L; a folding-leaf rear sight, shown at O, P, and Q, and a combination
rear aperture sight, at M and N, mounted on the tang of the rifle. An
arm so sighted is useful for all kinds of shooting. The combination
rear sight is used in deliberate shots at a target or at game, and the
folding-leaf sight is better than the buckhorn for quick snap shooting.
The sportsman who wishes to master the use of a rifle must have a
knowledge of the trajectory of such weapons, and particularly of the
rifle he uses regularly. He must know, also, how to aline the sights
correctly to get satisfactory results. The trajectory is the path which
the rifle bullet takes in passing from the muzzle of the rifle to its
mark. The force of gravity acts upon the bullet in flight and the
result is that the trajectory is curved, as indicated in the diagram at
the bottom of the page illustration. A relatively low trajectory is, of
course, desirable in a hunting rifle. The black-powder, or slow-speed,
cartridge has a relatively high trajectory, while the high-power
smokeless cartridges have relatively low trajectories.
The adjustment of the sights of a rifle is also of much importance.
Every rifle is targeted at the factory, but this may be done by a fair
shot, using the following method: Arrange three boxes, so that the
rifle barrel may rest upon one, and the arms of the marksman upon the
other two. Place a bag of sand upon the box, so that the barrel may
rest upon it, about 6 in. from the muzzle. Put the target into place,
and adjust the sights for 100 yd. If the sights are properly lined up,
the shots should fall quite regularly within a 10-in. circle. With
peep, or other target, sights, much finer results will be obtained. In
moving the sights it must be remembered that to move the rear sight to
the right will bring the shot to the right, and vice versa, while if
the front sight is moved to the right, the arm will shoot to the left.
In making the test, first adjust the front sight so that it is in exact
alinement with the center of the barrel, and then all corrections may
be made by moving the rear sight.
The proper way to sight a rifle is to hold the front sight just clear
of the notch in the rear sight, with the front bead barely touching the
outer ring of the bull’s-eye, at the extreme bottom. This is shown at
R, Fig. 3. It is the rule of good rifle shot to “see daylight between
the sight and the bull’s-eye.” In any event, do not cover up the front
sight by drawing it down into the notch of the rear sight, so that only
the top of the bead is visible. Another frequent error is to hold the
front sight to cover the bull’s-eye.
[Illustration: The Off-Hand, Knee-Support, and Prone Positions in
Shooting should be Mastered by the Sportsman. The Diagrams Represent
Several Vital Shots, the Moving Target, and the Trajectory of a Rifle
Bullet]
The sportsman who wishes to become a practical rifle shot should learn
how to handle the rifle in the several useful positions, so that he
may be able to sight accurately under different conditions. Several
of the most widely used positions are shown in the page illustration.
The off-hand position, with arm extended, is the most commonly used
and best position for the sportsman to practice, for use in the woods.
The off-hand, with body rest, or elbow resting on the hip, is good for
target shooting. The “Schuetzen” style of holding the rifle, with palm
rest, is used only in fine match shooting.
The knee-rest position is often useful for the sportsman in stalking
game, when it is desirable to expose oneself as little as possible. A
steadier aim may be secured, especially if a strong wind is blowing.
The prone position is much used by military riflemen, but they are not
permitted the muzzle rest, whereas the hunter often uses it. It is easy
to learn, and more accurate shooting may be done in this position than
in the off-hand or knee-rest positions.
For indoor practice at a target, the .22-caliber rifle is best. By
fitting up a suitable backstop, shooting may be done safely in the
cellar or attic. A satisfactory backstop may be made by fastening a
plate of iron into a packing box, 3 ft. square, as shown in Fig. 3. The
plate must be set at an angle so that the bullets will be deflected to
the bottom of the box.
In order that the rifleman may check up his work, it is desirable
that a standard target be used. The American standard target, shown
in Fig. 3, has been adopted by practically all rifle clubs, and, as
the majority of records are made upon it, the sportsman should become
familiar with it. The paper targets are inexpensive, and it is easy to
draw accurate homemade targets from the original. By the use of disks
of black and white paper--known as gummed target pasters--one target
may be used several times.
If convenient to do so, the novice should shoot a string of shots
every day, in the various positions. Do not try to hurry, but shoot
deliberately at first, aiming to secure a good average, rather than
a few bull’s-eye shots and many wild ones. With reasonable practice,
it is not difficult to score eight bull’s-eyes out of ten shots,
when using the prone position. Having attained this proficiency, the
sportsman may be regarded as a fair shot, and is ready to take up
outdoor target practice with the high-power rifle.
[Illustration: FIG. 2
J, Mechanism of Lever-Action Repeating Rifle; 2, Breechblock; 7,
Cocking Lever; 19, Firing Pin, Front; 21, Firing Pin, Rear; 29, Guard
Finger Lever; 34, Hammer; 36, Lifter; 37, Locking Slide; 45, Mainspring
Plunger; 46, Mainspring Plunger Seat; 63, Trigger
K, Mechanism of Falling-Breechblock, Single-Shot Rifle; L, Gold-Bead
Front Sight; M and N, Combination Rear Aperture or Tang Sight, Raised
and Folded; O, P, Q, Folding-Leaf Rear Sight, Used as V-Crotched Sight,
Straight-Bar Sight, and Folded Flat to Barrel]
For outdoor target shooting the .22-caliber, long-rifle cartridge
will give very accurate results up to 100 yd. The standard target has
a bull’s-eye measuring 6 in. in diameter for 150 yd. Shooting may
be tried for a while at a fixed range, then the target may be moved
to an unknown distance and angle, and the marksman can try his hand
at estimating distance. Instead of changing his sights at varying
distances, the sportsman should learn how to estimate the distance of
the mark and the approximate elevation of the sights to land the bullet
within the circle. This is valuable practice for good shooting in the
woods.
After considerable practice at the stationary target, quick firing may
be varied by rigging up a sliding trolley arrangement, like that shown
in the page illustration. It is easily made by setting up two poles,
properly braced, one about 30 ft. tall, and the other about 10 ft.,
spaced 30 ft. apart. Between the poles, about 8 ft. from the ground,
stretch a length of stiff telephone wire, and make a wooden target
block W, with a metal sheave wheel, so that it may slide freely along
the wire. On the tallest post, a little above the wire, fasten a metal
pulley, Z, and at the top of the pole place a sash pulley. Then attach
a stout cord to the target block, reeve it through the two pulleys,
and attach a sandbag, or other weight, to the end of the cord, On the
shorter post, a latch, or trigger, Y, is fastened to hold the target,
which is released by pulling a string. With this easily constructed
device, much valuable practice may be had, for if the pole is fairly
high, the weight will cause the target to slide as rapidly as the
average game bird travels. In using this moving target, just as good
practice is obtained with a .22-caliber repeater as with a high-power
gun. In fact, the high-velocity ammunition should be used only on a
regular range, or where a suitable backstop is erected to stop the
high-power bullets. Such a backstop may be constructed of heavy lumber,
like old railroad ties, in the form of a crib, which is filled in with
sand or earth. When a natural background, such as a mound or hill, is
at hand, this may be used with safety, but a rocky hillside is not
satisfactory, for it is likely to deflect the bullets, and may cause
injury through stray shots.
[Illustration: FIG. 3]
As our antlered game, like the moose, the Virginia deer, the caribou,
and the elk, are held in higher esteem than other American big-game
animals, a few practical hints on where to sight, may serve to bring
better luck to the sportsman who has yet to bring in his first head.
The shoulder shot, shown in the rectangular sketch at S, T and U, is
taken by the experienced hunter whenever possible, in preference to any
other. It is the object of this shot to break the shoulder joint, and
thus prevent use of the forelegs. It is a vital shot, also, because
there is a good chance of the bullet passing through either the heart
or lungs, which will drop the game in its tracks. This is the most
effective of all shots, and as the hunter more often draws a bead while
the game is running away, the shoulder shot is used more than any
other. The exact spot, at which the aim should be taken, depends upon
the distance of the animal, and its rate of movement. If on the run and
the range of 100 yd. or more, the sight should be taken at the point S.
If less than this distance, sight at T, and, if the animal is standing
still, take deliberate aim at U, within the dotted inclosure. This area
represents what big-game hunters call the vital zone, and a soft-nose
bullet, placed anywhere within this spot, will be certain to stop the
game, often dropping it on the spot. It is possible to land a bullet in
a vital spot at distances up to 500 yd. with a high-power rifle, but it
is very likely that the game will be wounded only, and may escape to
die a lingering death. In taking long shots at big game on the run, the
sight should be taken well forward and a trifle higher than the marks
given, since the hunter must allow for the trajectory of his arm and
the time the bullet takes to reach its mark.
The front shot, shown at the right, has as its object to hit the heart
or lungs. It is a useful shot, and the sight is taken at the cross
indication on the breast. The head shot, shown in the circle, is a
brain shot, and is used only by the experienced hunter, when it is
difficult to land a shoulder or front shot. As the brain is well up
to the top of the head, the best point of aim is shown at V, midway
between the eyes and a trifle higher than their centers. This shot
is most effective when the hunter stands a trifle above the game, or
shoots when the game is charging head down. If on a level, aim just
above the eye, and if close to the game, land the bullet just below
the eye. The ear shot, as indicated by the cross, is taken at close
quarters, and the point to sight for is the inside of the ear at its
base.
A good rifle will give a lifetime of service, and the sportsman should
take care of it. The best time to clean a firearm of any kind is as
soon after shooting as possible, for the powder residue is then fresh
and moist, and is more easily and quickly removed. Black powder can
be removed with a wet rag, but smokeless powder not only leaves a
little powder residue, but also a film of gummy residue on the steel
which is not apparent to the eye. Common washing soda, dissolved in
water to make a saturated solution, is used to remove it. Any of the
ready-prepared nitro solvents are good for cleaning the rifle. A good
way to clean a rifle is to use strips of cotton flannel, cut into
squares of such size that they will fit snugly, but may be easily
pushed through the barrel on the head of the metal cleaning rod. Always
clean a rifle from the breech, if possible, by resting the muzzle on
a few folded papers on the floor. Push a couple of dry wipers down to
the floor to remove the carbon residue. Then saturate another square
of cloth with the nitro solvent, and carefully swab out the barrel,
turning the rod so that it will follow the spiral rifling. Repeat the
operation two or three times; then take a clean wiper, moistened with
the solvent, and repeat until the barrel is well lubricated with the
cleaning fluid. The barrel should be well oiled with any good, thick
oil, or liquid vaseline. The lock mechanism of the arm should be kept
clean and very lightly lubricated with any good thin oil, and the
gunstock polished with linseed oil.
Camera for Taking Pictures from a Kite
BY CHARLES I. REID
When watching a kite flying at a considerable height one frequently
wonders how the landscape appears from such a viewpoint as would be
possible from a kite. Few of us can have the experience of a ride
in an aeroplane, but it is quite possible to obtain a view from the
kite, by proxy as it were, through the use of a kite camera. A kite of
large dimensions would be necessary to carry an ordinary camera taking
pictures of fair size, hence it is necessary to devise one of lighter
construction, so that a kite of moderate size may carry it to a height
of several hundred feet. Such a camera is shown in the illustration
attached to a box kite. Details of construction are shown in the
smaller sketches.
A camera consists, briefly, of a light-proof box, with a lens at one
end and a sensitive plate or film at the other. For a kite camera,
a single achromatic lens will suit the purpose. Such a lens is not
expensive and may be taken from a small camera. It must be obtained
before the camera is begun, since the size of the latter is dependent
upon the focal length of the lens and the size of the picture to be
made. A camera taking pictures 2 in. square is satisfactory for kite
photography, and if it is desired to enlarge the pictures, this may be
done in the usual manner.
The box of the camera is made cone-shaped in order to reduce the weight
and air resistance. Its sides are of light-weight, stiff cardboard,
reinforced at the corners to insure that no light will enter. The
back of the camera is a tight-fitting cover of cardboard, having the
same measurements as the picture to be taken. The lens is fitted to
an intermediate partition, as shown in the sketch. It is necessary to
determine the focal length of the lens and to set it at a distance
from the inner side of the cardboard back of the camera--the film
surface--so that it will focus properly for photographing distant
objects.
[Illustration: The Kite Camera Offers a Diversion in Photography, and
Has Practical and Commercial Uses as Well. The Camera Shown Is of Light
Weight, Simple Construction, and Produces Film Exposures Two Inches
Square. A Sectional View of Its Construction is Given at the Left, and
the Details of the Shutter Device at the Right]
The front is provided with a circular opening of a size large enough
not to obstruct the view of the lens. A shutter made of thin pressboard
is fitted over the opening, as shown in the sketch at the right. A
slit is cut in the shutter through which light is admitted in making
the exposure as the shutter is drawn back. The size and width of the
slit regulates the exposure, and a few trials must be made to determine
the most suitable speed of exposure for the lens used. The shutter is
pivoted at its lower end and drawn back by a rubber band. A string, to
which a time fuse is attached, controls the releasing of the shutter to
make the exposure. The string holds the shutter closed against the pull
of the rubber band until the fuse burns up to the string, severing it.
The fuse must be long enough to enable the kite to attain a suitable
height before the string is burned. When the shutter has been set, and
the fuse attached ready for lighting, the camera may be taken into the
dark room for loading. A piece of film, cut to the proper size, is
placed carefully into the light-proof sliding cover, as with a film
pack, the sensitive side, of course, being placed nearest the lens.
The camera is attached to the kite securely at the middle, as shown,
so that when the kite is in flight a view nearly straight down will be
obtained. When all is in readiness the fuse is lighted and the kite
started on its flight. By timing experimental flights, the required
length of fuse may be determined in order to permit the kite to attain
the desired height at the time of exposure.
The kite used for taking pictures from the air should be large
enough to carry the kite easily. One of the box type illustrated is
satisfactory, although other types may be used. A kite camera for the
amateur has great possibilities for experimentation, but requires
care in construction and a reasonable knowledge of photography. To
the person willing to master the details, kite photography offers
a pleasurable diversion as well as practical uses in photographing
plots of ground, groups of buildings, manufacturing plants, and other
subjects which cannot be photographed by other methods.
How to Make a Canteen
Two sheet-metal plates that are well nickelplated may be joined and
provided with a suitable opening, to form a useful canteen for the
camper or hiker. The illustration shows such a convenience fitted with
a shoulder strap ready for use.
[Illustration]
It was made as follows: Two good-quality pie plates were soldered at
their edges to form a water-tight container. An opening was cut into
the edge and a screw cap, taken from a metal-polish can, was fitted
carefully and soldered over the opening. A wire was soldered at each
side of the screw cap, providing loops for the snap buckles of the
shoulder straps.--J. R. Townsend, Itasca, Texas.
Mixing Stick That Breaks Up Lumps
In mixing paint, or paste, it is desirable that all lumps be broken
up quickly, and that the forming of lumps be prevented as much as
possible. A mixing stick that will aid in this process is made as
follows: Procure a stick of wood, that will take nails without
cracking, and cut it about 1 in. square and 12 in. long. On one side,
beginning ¹⁄₂ in. from the end, drive five 8-penny finishing nails, 1
in. apart. On the next side, repeat the process, beginning the nails 1
in. from the end. Place similar nails on the other two sides, spacing
them to offset those on the other sides. The nails cause a thorough
mixing of the paste, or paint, prevent the forming of lumps of any
considerable size, and by careful stirring will break up all lumps in
the mixture.--Edwin R. Mason, Danville, Ill.
Tin Can on Rod for Picking Fruit
[Illustration]
The best apple is usually a little beyond reach, as every boy knows,
so I fitted a tin can, cut as shown in the sketch, to a pole and can
easily pick the apple that I want. The device is useful for picking
many varieties of fruit, and prevents damaging it by a fall. For
picking apples or other fruit from the upper branches of trees, where
it is almost impossible to reach by the use of a ladder, the tin-can
fruit picker is especially handy. The small sketch shows how the edges
of the can should be cut to afford the best grip on the stem, making it
possible to cut the twig from above or below.--T. A. Charles, Hamilton,
Ont.
The Shotgun and How to Use It
BY STILLMAN TAYLOR
PART I--How a Shotgun is Made
Hunting and fishing have always held the most important places in
the field of sport. Primitive man was an expert hunter and a skilled
fisherman. He had to be in order to secure food and skins, and while
but few men are now dependent upon this method of getting a living,
the call of the outdoor world is still heard by millions of men and
women. This, then, may be reckoned the inheritance which our primitive
ancestors have bequeathed to every man, and every man will find health
and recreation through it. It would be interesting to begin this
chapter at the start and set down the history of weapons, trace the
evolution of the hunting arm all the way from the bow down to the
modern hammerless shotgun, but as this is a practical article on how to
pick out a good gun and the knack of using it, only modern weapons will
be discussed. While the novice need not know the detailed process of
constructing a shotgun, he will find it an advantage to know something
of the way in which a serviceable weapon is manufactured, for with this
knowledge he is better qualified to pick out a suitable arm for his own
particular use.
[Illustration: The Side-Plate Lock Is a Development of the Old Hammer
Lock with Striker Inside]
The frame of a shotgun--that is, the part to one end of which the
barrels are affixed, the stock being bolted to the other--contains the
lock mechanism, and that the weapon may give the most satisfaction for
many years, the stock must be of good quality, of the exquisite temper,
and the bolting mechanism--securing the barrels to the frame--must be
simple, yet strong and serviceable. For the frame, a solid drop forging
is milled to make a shell into which the working mechanism is fitted,
and two types of frames are used in making the modern shotguns. The
side-plate lock is really a development of the old hammer lock, with
the striker inside. This lock is preferred by some shooters because
of its neat and graceful lines, and some manufacturers use this type
because it enables them to make use of a lighter frame.
[Illustration: The Box Type of Frame Likewise Has Its Champions and
Possesses Its Advantages]
[Illustration: The Cocking Hook Is an Ingenious Device, with Variations
Used on Different Makes of Arms]
The box type of frame likewise has its champions and possesses certain
advantages. Certainly it makes a strong and rigid frame, and for
inexpensive weapons it would be difficult to improve upon. While its
square, boxlike form is not graceful in line, it enables the maker to
use a spiral, or coil, spring instead of a flat spring for operating
the locks, which is an advantage. In brief, the merits of both types
may be summed up in this fashion: The use of the box type of lock
enables the maker to turn out a better quality of gun at a low price,
but in the case of a well-made gun, selling for a reasonable figure,
there is very little choice between them so far as dependability and
long service are concerned. Both are much used by manufacturers of the
finest weapons, hence the shooter may pick out the one which best suits
his fancy.
[Illustration: A Hammerless Gun with Roller Bearings to Overcome the
Short Leverage and Make It Open and Close Easily]
The Cocking Mechanism of the Hammerless
The locks of the hammerless shotgun work inside of the frame or
lock, and are cocked by an ingenious little mechanism operated by
the movement of the barrels when they are opened. The Anson & Deely
cocking mechanism is one of the oldest and best of these devices, and
is still used on many American as well as European arms. The levers
of this mechanism are hung with pivots in the end of the frame--one
end projecting into the fore end and the opposite end resting beneath
the hammer toe. As the gun is “broken,” or opened, it presses down the
forward end of the cocking lever, and the other end rises and pushes
the hammers into the cocked position. This is the principle upon which
all cocking devices are constructed, and while it works smoothly and is
so simple that it is not likely to get out of order, it is mechanically
weak, owing to the short frame required to secure adequate leverage.
Perhaps one of the best variations of the Anson & Deely device is one
employed by an American manufacturer who makes use of a rod running
through the frame from the fore end to the hammer. To each end of this
rod is attached a crank, so hung that as one crank is depressed the
other rises and pushes the hammer to the cock position as the barrels
are swung to open the gun.
[Illustration: A Lug is Forged on the End of Each Barrel, and When
Fitted Together They are Brazed]
The cocking hook is an ingenious device found on American shotguns
and many variations of it are, of course, used on the different makes
of arms. The Parker gun is provided with a hook working a slide, thus
pulling the hammers to cock. In the Baker, a bent arm is pivoted to the
breech to serve the same purpose. Another example of American ingenuity
may be noted in the lug-cocking devices used on the Ithaca and Fox
guns. This simple arrangement is made by connecting the toe of the
hammer directly with the lug, which is an integral part of the barrel.
The hammer is thus made to act as its own lever, for as the toe portion
rises when the barrel is opened, the striker falls back until it is
caught in the notch of the sear.
To guard against the possibility of accidental discharge of the
hammerless gun, in which type of gun the hammer must be always at full
cock, a safety trigger bolt is utilized. This bolt is affixed in the
frame in a vertical position by pivoting it, and to the upper part of
the lever is attached a slide placed on top of the tang immediately
back of the top lever which opens the barrels. As this safety slide
is pushed, the lower end of the lever is brought close up against the
triggers, blocking them, and thus prevents them from moving while the
safety is in the “on” position. To discharge the gun, the slide must be
pushed forward to the “off” position, which moves the lower end away
from the triggers. This type of safety is of the nonautomatic variety
and can only block the triggers when the slide is operated by the
shooter.
The automatic type of safety consists of a block, or bar, fitted in the
frame and extending from the safety bolt to the post of the top lever.
When the top lever is pushed to one side to open the barrels, this
block, or bar, pushes the safety bolt over the triggers, automatically
blocking them and preventing accidental discharge. The triggers must be
pressed to withdraw the automatic safety bar.
[Illustration: The Rotary Bolt, an American Invention, Is Strongest
Device Known for Locking the Barrels to the Frame]
To make the shotgun less likely to go off in the hands of the careless
gunner, the tumbler safety has been incorporated into the mechanism
of a few American weapons. The tumbler safety is a bar, automatically
operated by the triggers, and interposed between the strikers and
their firing pins. This device makes it impossible for the arm to be
discharged by the hammer jarring off when dropped, for the tumbler bar
occupies its position between the strikers and firing pins until the
triggers are pulled.
[Illustration: The Three-Bolt Mechanism Is One Form of the
Rotary-Bolting Principle Used by Many Gun Builders]
The practical value of both the automatic safety and the tumbler type
of bolt is questioned by practically all experienced gunners. Its
presence is designed to make the arm less dangerous in the hands of
careless and ignorant sportsmen. This it may serve to do, but since
there should be no excuse for tolerating the latter, most handlers
of the scatter gun fail to see the utility of the former. The novice
should lose no time in acquiring the knack of handling his chosen
weapon, and if he will but exercise a little care, he will find the
hand-operated safety quite sufficient, for he will not be troubled
through accidental discharge of his gun. By far the larger portion
of accidents occur through careless handling of the gun and by the
untimely pulling of the trigger, either by dragging the gun through the
brush or by nervousness, and it is impossible to make use of a safety
device to prevent the accidental discharge.
[Illustration: The Fore End Is an Extension of the Stock beyond the
Triggers and the Frame]
The Barrels of a Shotgun
Between 15 and 20 years ago shotgun barrels were made by combining
bars of iron and steel and welding them together to form barrels of
the proper diameter or bore. When these strips of metal were twisted
to make a spiral tube they were welded together to make the familiar
“twist,” “laminated,” and “Damascus” barrels. Sometimes three, four,
and five strips of iron and steel were twisted together to make the
“three-stripe,” “four-stripe,” and “five-stripe” Damascus barrels. This
old type of a barrel was strong and flexible, but being comparatively
soft, it was easily damaged by denting.
[Illustration: The Comparative Sizes of a 20-Gauge and a 12-Gauge
Repeating Shotgun]
The modern compressed-steel barrels are fashioned from solid drawn
steel, are very hard, will stand much higher pressure than the Damascus
type, and since the process of manufacture is simpler, a first-class
steel barrel may be produced at one-quarter the cost of the old type.
The several manufacturers have adopted trade names to distinguish the
various grades of steel barrels. Various trade names come from abroad,
and those of American manufacture are labeled “nitro-steel,” “armor
steel,” “high-pressure steel,” etc. While differences very likely exist
in the quality of the different barrels sold under the several names,
all the barrels used by reputable gun builders will be found amply
strong to resist any pressure exerted by ordinary charges of powder,
hence the cheaper guns are perfectly safe and will stand many years of
hard shooting.
Locking the Barrels to the Frame
In the early models of the breech-loader the barrels were locked to
the frame with a bolt operated by a lever placed under the fore end.
All modern guns have the top-lever action. In this device a “lump” is
fastened to the under side of the barrels near the breech, forming a
hinged joint to which the fore end is attached when fitting the barrel
and stock together. When closed, the breech end of the barrels is held
down to the action and tight up against the breech by a slide, or bolt,
which fits into the “lump” attached underneath the barrels. Different
makers use various forms of top-lever bolting devices, as the “hook
rib” or “extension rib,” otherwise known as the “doll’s head,” and the
cross bolt first used by Greener, the celebrated English gun builder.
All of these devices are satisfactory on a good grade of gun, but the
strongest mechanism is an American invention, known as the Smith rotary
bolt. This rotary bolt is tapered and is pushed through an opening in
the rib by means of a strong spring. Mechanically this locking device
is all that can be desired, and it cannot loosen through manipulation,
because of its compensating feature, that is, the spring forces the
bolt farther in as the bearings become worn through much service. Many
of our well-known builders use this splendid fastening.
Shotgun Stocks
Walnut is exclusively used for gunstocks, and the several grades are
termed plain American walnut, fine American walnut, English walnut,
selected English walnut, fine English walnut, Italian walnut, and
Circassian walnut. The plain American walnut is simply a common quality
of black walnut, oiled and varnished, and fitted on the cheaper guns.
Fine American walnut is of better quality, darker in color, and of
better grain. It is strong and durable, and when well oiled and
polished by hand, it makes a neat stock for the inexpensive gun. The
selected English walnut is of good color and with good grain. When
oiled and hand-polished it makes an attractive stock for the knockabout
gun. Fine English walnut is usually fitted to guns selling at a higher
price, and is generally made to order. Italian walnut is a dark wood
with a fine grain and is usually supplied to order on the finest guns.
Circassian walnut is the finest wood obtainable, of a rich dark color
and a fine curly grain. It is therefore expensive and only finished to
order and fitted to the most expensive guns.
The Fore End
The fore end is an extension of the stock beyond the triggers and frame
and affords a grip for the extended hand--protecting it from the hot
barrel--serves to lock the barrel to the frame, and likewise holds the
ejector mechanism. The Deely & Edge, and Snal fore ends are both used
on American guns, and they are so well designed and made that it is
practically impossible for the modern types to loosen even when the
arm has been subjected to long, hard service. Hence this detail of the
shotgun need not be considered when selecting an arm.
Self-Ejector Mechanism
Although a great many shooters do not use the self-ejector, this handy
device will many times prove of great value in the field, for when the
birds are coming fast and the shooter happens to score a miss, the
self-ejector throws out the empty shell and enables him to shove in
a fresh load to bring down the following bird. The nonejecting arm is
plenty good and quick enough for trap use, for when shooting “clays,”
plenty of time is given each man to reload between shots, but for
upland-bird and for duck shooting, the automatic ejector is a desirable
addition to the double-barreled gun.
Repeating and Automatic Shotguns
While a good double-barreled gun in the hands of the average shot
will very likely bag as many birds as the shooter is entitled to--and
it may be depended on to do this when fitted with a good automatic
ejector--many shooters prefer the repeating gun. The hand-operated,
sliding fore arm, trombone-action, or pump gun is so well-known that no
recommendation is needed. It will suffice to mention that it will do
everything that a double-barreled gun can perform, and considering that
every pump gun is self-ejecting, and its cost less than an equal grade
of double gun equipped with an ejecting device, it is not difficult
to understand its popularity. So far as accuracy is concerned, the
repeater will shoot rather more steadily than the double-barreled gun
in the hands of the average man, and after two shots have been fired,
there remain four more in the magazine. Rapid firing is not always an
advantage, of course, but when after ducks, the third shot is often
wanted in the interval that is required to load the double-barreled gun.
[Illustration: The Shells are Started About One-Quarter Inch in the
Regular Way Before the Ejector Kicks Them Out]
The automatic, or self-loading, shotgun is the logical development of
the repeater, and while its mechanism is necessarily more complicated,
it has some merits peculiarly its own. The devotee of the double barrel
is inclined to believe that the repeater and the automatic shotgun do
not balance so well as his favorite weapon, and the man who swears by
the pump gun is inclined to think that the automatic arm is balanced
like a club and prone to get out of order. Both factions can put up
plenty of argument to support their opinions, but to the unprejudiced
gunner, both the repeater and the self-loader will prove very fine
guns after the shooter has become familiar in handling them. The
double-barrel is a mighty fine gun, so is the repeater and again the
automatic; so let the gunner pick out the type he likes best.
[Illustration: The Automatic Ejector Mechanism Enables the Gunner to
Shove in a Fresh Load for the Following Bird]
[Illustration: A Self-Loading Shotgun in the Positions of the Action
Open and Closed]
How to Select a Shotgun
[Illustration: The Measurements are Taken of the Drop at the Comb and
Heel, and of the Stock from the Butt to the Forward Trigger]
That the shooter may not be handicapped by using a misfit gun, it is
well to make a selection at one of the larger dealers’ where guns of
various sizes, weights and lengths, as well as drops in stocks, may be
tried until one is found that fits the gunner the best. A good shot
can pick up almost any gun and do fairly accurate shooting with it,
but he can do better work with a gun fitting him properly. The chief
measurements of a gunstock are the length and drop of the stock, and
the drop and shape of the comb. The ordinary thickness of the grip
will suit the average hand, but in the case of unusually large or
small hands, this must be taken into consideration. For the average
man these measurements will probably be about right: Length of stock,
from forward trigger to center of butt plate, A-A, 14 to 14¹⁄₂ in.,
drop at comb, B-B, 1¹⁄₂ to 1⁷⁄₈ in., which will give corresponding
drop at the heel, C-C, from 2¹⁄₂ to 3 in. A fairly straight stock of
good length may be reckoned an advantage for trap shooting, but for
use in the field, a somewhat crooked stock with more drop at the comb,
say, 1⁵⁄₈ in. with 2⁵⁄₈-in. drop at the heel, will more fully meet the
average shooter’s idea of a well-balanced gun. However, as men differ,
and there are as many faces and eyes as there are men, every shooter
must decide this question for himself. So far as the circumference of
the grip is concerned, the size of the shooter’s hand and the length
of his fingers will decide this detail. For a small hand, a 7-in. grip
is about right, while a grip of 7¹⁄₂ in. will probably fit the large
hand well. The question of straight or pistol grip is purely a matter
of personal taste, for one is as good as the other so far as accurate
handling of the gun is concerned.
[Illustration: A Repeating Shotgun and the Position of Its Different
Parts When Cocked and After Firing]
The Gauge, or Size of Bore
The 10-gauge may be occasionally useful for long-range duck and goose
shooting, but for ordinary duck and upland use the 12-gauge is plenty
large enough. The larger the gauge the greater will be the killing
zone, and up to their ranges the small bores may, for all practical
purposes, be regarded as shooting quite as accurately and with as much
power as the heavier gauges, that is, the small bores will shoot to
kill if held correctly. The standard 12-gauge gun is fitted with 30-in.
barrels, weighs 7 to 8 lb., and the standard load for the field is 3
dr. of powder and 1¹⁄₈ oz. of shot. This gives a killing range up to
40 yd. The standard 16-gauge, with 30-in. barrels, weighs from 6¹⁄₂
to 7¹⁄₄ lb., and the standard load is 2¹⁄₂ dr. of powder and 1 oz. of
shot, with a killing range up to 35 yd. The standard 20-gauge, with
28-in. barrels, weighs from 5 to 6¹⁄₂ lb. and the standard load is 2¹⁄₄
dr. of powder and ⁷⁄₈ oz. of shot. Best killing range up to 30 yards.
For an all-purpose gun, suitable for wild fowling as well as upland
shooting, the 12-gauge is the best choice although the 16-gauge will be
found a hard-hitting weapon. For the good shot, the 20-gauge will prove
a fine little arm for upland work, only the gunner must shoot well
with the small bore to kill his bird clean. Contrary to the notion,
the large bore, not the small gauge, will bring the most game to the
novice’s bag.
Mission Candlestick
Even though a candlestick is one of the simplest of the smaller
household furnishings, it nevertheless can be made a very attractive
feature.
For the illustrated mission design, a base, 4 by 4 by ⁷⁄₈ in., should
be provided. This is cut, with the grain, for a ¹⁄₂-in.-wide groove,
¹⁄₄ in. deep and extending from one side to within ¹⁄₂ in of the
opposite side. In this groove is to fit the handle, which is made
from a piece of ¹⁄₂ by 2¹⁄₄ by 3³⁄₄-in. stock. It is provided with a
finger-grip hole ³⁄₄ by 1¹⁄₄ in. at one end. Its upper edge should be
marked off from the center pedestal and fitted to it. The pedestal can
be made from stock 1⁷⁄₈ by 1⁷⁄₈ by 5 in. A tenon, ¹⁄₄ in. long by 1¹⁄₄
in. square, is formed on the lower end. This tenon is to fit a mortise
in the center of the base. A slot ¹⁄₂ in. wide is cut centrally in the
pedestal, and 2 in. above the lower end, to fit the handle. The upper
end of the pedestal is cut straight for ¹⁄₄ in. and squared off to 1¹⁄₈
in. This is to serve as a tenon to fit a corresponding mortise in the
¹⁄₂ by 2-in. square top. The sides of the pedestal are evenly tapered
off from the 1⁷⁄₈-in. square base to the lower end of the 1¹⁄₈-in.
square tenon, at the top.
[Illustration: Mission Candlestick of Pleasing Design, That will Appear
Well with Other Furniture of This Class]
The parts, before assembling, should be thoroughly sandpapered, as
considerable difficulty would otherwise be experienced. No nails or
screws need be used, as good glue will keep the parts together equally
well. When completely assembled, a hole should be drilled through the
top and into the pedestal, to fit the size of candle to be used. A
carefully applied mission stain and varnish will give a proper finish
to the candlestick.--Contributed by G. Crossley, Erie, Pa.
Pin Setter for the Home Tenpins
[Illustration: All the Tenpins are Quickly Set, and Each in Its Proper
Place]
Bowling with a set of small tenpins, which can be purchased at a
department store, is a very interesting game. The chief drawback,
however, is the setting of the pins. With a little rack like the one
shown in the illustration, the interest in the game may be increased
considerably. It not only helps in setting the pins rapidly, but
insures a good setting with the proper spacing between the pins. It is
very simple to make, as it consists of a triangular piece of wood with
ten holes bored into it at the proper places, the dimensions of which
will be governed by the size of the pins, and three supports. The pins
are dropped in the holes and the rack lifted from them.--Contributed by
F. K. Howard, Los Angeles, California.
Magically Naming a Written Card
This experiment consists in requesting anyone of a company of
spectators to name a card and write it on a piece of paper, whereupon
the performer instantly names the card written.
Two persons are necessary, the performer and his assistant. The
performer leaves the room while the spectator writes the name of the
card on the paper, the assistant supplying the paper and pencil. When
the name of the card is written, the paper is folded by the spectator
and handed to the assistant with the pen or pencil. The assistant lays
the pencil and paper on a table in certain positions to designate
the name of the card. Previous to this test, the performer and the
assistant must have the positions of the paper and pencil mentally
fixed in their minds. Referring to the sketch, the four sides of the
table represent the card suits, viz., spades, hearts, clubs, and
diamonds; and an imaginary circle divided into twelve parts indicates
the number of the card, 1 standing for ace, 2 for deuce, and so on.
[Illustration: The Markings are Memorized so That Only Positions of
Pencil and Paper will be Seen]
The assistant, knowing what has been written on the paper, places the
paper to indicate the suit, and the pencil is laid so that it points
to the number on the imaginary circle, or dial. The one shown in the
sketch is designating the four of hearts.
Dry-Cleaning Mixture
An emulsion of gasoline and water is much used by dry cleaners for
removing grease, tar, and paint spots from clothing. It is in the form
of a thick, white sirup, which evaporates entirely and is not injurious
to any fabric or color. The directions for preparing this emulsion
should be followed out carefully.
Dissolve, in 1 qt. of boiling water, ¹⁄₂ oz. of pure castile soap, and
¹⁄₄ oz. of gum arabic. Allow this to cool, and then add 1 oz. glycerin,
1 oz. strong aqua ammonia, 1¹⁄₂ oz. chloroform, and 2 oz. sulphuric
ether. Shake well, and pour enough of the mixture into a quart bottle
to fill it for ³⁄₄ in. On top of this, pour not more than ¹⁄₄ in. of
gasoline, and shake until creamy. Repeat the addition of gasoline,
shaking each time, until full. The cleaning mixture will then be ready
for use, and may be applied with a rag, or small brush.
If, on adding the first lot of gasoline and shaking, the mixture does
not become emulsified, it proves that too much gasoline has been added.
In this case, allow it to stand for a few minutes, and pour off the
excess gasoline which comes to the top. Shake well, and add a smaller
quantity of gasoline. When the bottle is half full, larger quantities
of gasoline may be added at a time.
It is interesting to note that the more gasoline is added, the thicker
the emulsion becomes, and if the addition of gasoline and shaking is
prolonged, a semisolid jelly is formed, which will not run from a
bottle.--Contributed by H. E. Zschiegner, Wellsville, N. Y.
Locking Window Sash
[Illustration]
An excellent lock for window sash is to use two small, but strong,
hinges one fastened on each side of the top sash close to the upper
edge of the lower sash. This allows one wing of each hinge to swing
freely which permits it to be swung over the upper edge of the lower
sash, locking both securely. In placing the hinges in this position,
they are out of sight and not in the way.
[Illustration: THE SHOTGUN
AND HOW TO USE IT
BY Stillman Taylor
PART II--The Choke and Pattern of a Gun]
Having picked out a gun that “fits the man,” the matter of choke and
pattern should be considered. For trap shooting and for wild fowling,
the full-choke gun may be considered a necessity, since it will throw
the charge of shot within a relatively small circle; in other words,
make a denser pattern. Chokeboring is accomplished by constricting
the barrel at the muzzle from ¹⁄₂₅ to ¹⁄₅₀ in., the amount of taper
depending on the size of the bore and gauge. The narrowing of the
muzzle forces the charge of shot together and prevents the pellets
from scattering over a wide area. Guns are bored with varying degrees
of choke, from the full to the plain cylinder, and the manufacturers
compare them by recording the number of pellets which any given choke
will shoot in a 30-in. circle at 30 yd., or any other range selected as
the maximum distance. This gives the pattern from which we find that
the full choke produces 70 per cent, the half choke 60 per cent, the
quarter choke 50 per cent, and the cylinder 30 per cent.
For trap shooting and wild fowling the expert considers it essential
that his 12-gauge should be capable of throwing not less than 300
pellets; hence he selects a full-choked gun with a pattern of 300 or
better. As a full-choked 16-gauge will pattern about 275, it may be
used for ducks with good success. For a general-purpose gun, a pattern
from 250 to 275 will prove quite satisfactory for ducks and upland
game, and this may be had by picking out a half-choked 12-gauge, or
selecting a full-choked 16-gauge. The 20-gauge gives a pattern of about
245 shot, and thus scatters its charge over too large a circle to prove
effective on wild fowl, although it is very effective on upland game,
which is flushed not over 35 yd. from the shooter. A gun patterning
from 225 to 250 may be considered the ideal upland gun, and this may
be had by choosing a quarter-choked 12-gauge, a half-choked 16-gauge,
or a full-choked 20-gauge gun. These are known as “open-choked” guns,
are the most effective at short ranges, up to 35 yd., and cannot be
depended upon to kill clean when used at longer ranges.
Shooting with Both Eyes Open
To handle the weapon well is the desire of every sportsman, and this
knack is not difficult to attain, providing the novice will make a good
beginning. First of all, it is necessary to hold the gun correctly, and
while the forward hand may grip the fore end at any convenient point,
a well extended arm gives a better control of the gun when aiming, by
giving free play to all the muscles of the arm; hence the gun should be
held in a manner natural to the shooter, rather than in imitation of
the style of another.
The old manner of aiming the shotgun by closing one eye and sighting
along the rib is fast becoming obsolete, for better shooting may be
done by keeping both eyes open. Doctor Carter was the first great
exponent of binocular shooting, and while but few men can hope to
approach this famous gunner’s skill, every one can learn to handle
a shotgun more quickly and with greater accuracy by following his
common-sense method. It may appear a bit strange at first to disregard
the sights and keep both eyes open, and aim the gun by merely pointing
it in the desired direction, but to sight along the rib and attempt
to see the bead on the muzzle end can only make a slow and poky shot.
This old-fashioned method may be good enough for making patterns on a
stationary target, but it is not much of a success for wing shooting.
For fine rifle shooting the left eye is invariably closed for target
work, but for snap-shooting both eyes are kept open, the sights are
disregarded, and the aim is taken by pointing the gun at the object to
be hit. Of course, there are many good gunners who shoot with one eye
closed, but the novice who is anxious to become a good wing shot should
make it a point to practice with both eyes open. Vision is always
clearer, and the objects more accurately judged with both eyes open
than with one, and when this is done, and one eye controls the line
of aim, the shooter is not so likely to make mistakes in estimating
the distances and the rapidity of the flight of his game. In shooting,
the right eye naturally governs the right shoulder, and vice versa,
and this is so because habit has trained the eye to do this. To find
which is the master eye, hold a pencil out at arm’s length and point
it at some small distant object with both eyes open, then close the
left eye, and if the pencil still points to the object, the right eye
controls the vision, and is the master eye. Should the closing of the
left eye alter the aim, the right eye must be trained by practice
until it becomes the master eye, or else the gun must be shot from
the left shoulder, which is many times more difficult. The modern way
of mastering wing shooting is to point the gun where both eyes are
looking, and after a little practice this may be done quickly, and the
charge thrown more accurately at the object than by closing one eye, or
sighting along the barrel in the old manner.
The Knack of Hitting a Flying Target
When shooting at clay targets, or at a flying bird, allowance must be
made for the swiftness of flight and the distance from the shooter to
the game, or in other words, the shooter must calculate the speed of
the flying target and allow the probable time it will take for the shot
to reach its mark. To make a quick snap shot at the flying target,
the gun may be directly thrown at the mark and discharged as quickly
as possible, or the gun may cover the mark and be quickly swung ahead
and the charge sent at the point where the swiftly moving bird will be
found when the shot gets there. Snap-shooting is only possible when the
birds are flying straight away or quartering, and as the shooter fires
point-blank at the rapidly moving bird, the shot must be delivered so
rapidly that only a very quick and responsive trigger and a fast man
back of it can hope to score even a fair percentage of hits. A more
certain way of aiming a snap shot is to throw up the barrel below
the bird, then rapidly swing it to the proper elevation ahead of the
moving target, and throw the shot at the point where the line of the
aim and the flight of the bird intersect. For shots at quail, woodcock,
and partridge in the brush, the quick snap shot often must be taken,
regardless of the chances of missing, for to delay even a second will
lose the bird. When a bird rises near the shooter, no allowance of lead
or elevation are required, and the charge is thrown directly at the
bird.
The rapid swing, however, is the most accurate manner of using the
shotgun, at all angles and at any distance within the killing zone
of the weapon. To make this shot, the gun must be thrown up behind
the bird and then rapidly swung ahead of it, throwing the charge
without checking the swing of the arm. In this style of snap-shooting,
the elevation of the gun must be identical with the flight of the
bird, inasmuch as the gun follows it, and if the gun is swung about
three times as fast as the bird is traveling, plenty of allowance for
the time necessary to press the trigger and deliver the shot at the
determined point will be made.
To swing deliberately and cover the bird with the sight, then shove the
gun ahead to give the proper lead, is all right for duck shooting where
the game is usually seen approaching and thus remains within range for
a longer time. But this deliberate style of handling the gun is far too
slow for the uplands, and since the rapid swing is the only accurate
manner of cutting down the fast bird, and usually useful for wild
fowling, the novice should confine his practice to this practical style
of wing shooting.
Stationary-Target Practice
The first great mistake the novice is likely to make is the natural
one of supposing that he must take his gun to the field and learn how
to handle it by practicing at flying game. This is by no means the
best method, and there is scarcely a poorer way of becoming a wing
shot, because the gunner is intent upon bagging the game and forgets
to observe the many little points of gunnery, shooting high and low,
and making the hundred and one mistakes of judgment he would not be
guilty of when practicing at a stationary mark. Snap and wing shooting
is the last word in shotgun handling, requiring quickness in throwing
the gun, as well as a trained eye to calculate the distance from and
the speed of the flying target. To acquire confidence in using the
gun, begin by shooting at a fixed mark. A good target may be made by
obtaining a dozen, or two, sheets of stout wrapping paper and painting
a 4-in. circle in the center of each sheet. Tack it up on a board fence
or on a board hung on a tree, measure off 60 ft., and try a shot.
The shot will not spread very much at this short range, and it will
be an easy matter to determine the result of your skill in holding a
dead-on to the large mark. To avoid flinching and other movements of
the head and body, caused by the recoil, begin your first practicing
with a light powder-and-shot charge, say, about 2 dr. of bulk measure,
or its equivalent in smokeless, and ⁷⁄₈ oz. of No. 8 or 9 shot. There
is no advantage in using a heavier charge, and the recoil of the gun
will appear much greater in deliberate shooting at a target than is
likely to be felt during the excitement incidental to shooting in the
field. A dozen shots at these targets will enable the gunner to make
a good score by deliberate holding, and when this can be done without
flinching, snap and wing shooting may begin.
[Illustration: The Forward Hand may Grip the Fore End at Any Point, but
a Well-Extended Arm Gives a Better Control of the Gun]
Snap and Wing Shooting
The object which the gunner should now strive for is to train the eye,
hand, and gun to work in unison, and to do this, bring the gun quickly
to the shoulder, point it to the mark, and press the trigger without
stopping the upward and even swing of the barrels. At the first few
trials some difficulty may be encountered with the pressing of the
trigger at the proper moment, but a little practice will soon tell
how to time the shots. Note the phrase, “press the trigger,” for the
trigger is not pulled by the forefinger alone, but rather pressed
by closing both hands, the forward hand on the fore end pushing and
closing, and the hand grasping the stock being drawn back and squeezed
at the same instant. This is easily done, but rather hard to picture.
After a few trials with an empty gun, the novice will see the point,
and also discover the fact that the recoil of the arm is much lessened
by this proper grip of the weapon.
Confine the first practice in snap-shooting to throwing the gun to the
shoulder, and when proficient in hitting the mark, try a snap shot by
swinging the gun from the side, right to left and also left to right.
Do not attempt to check the even swing of the gun, but rather let the
barrels swing past the mark, concentrating the mind upon pressing the
trigger the instant the line of aim covers the mark. Practice swinging
slowly, and after being able to hit the mark with the center of the
charge pretty regularly, increase the speed of the swing. In doing
this, it will be discovered that the speed of pressing the trigger
must also be increased to balance the speed of the moving barrel, and
very likely it will be found that the natural tendency is to press the
trigger a bit late. This is the common mistake which practically every
novice makes when in the field, although the error is likely to pass
unnoticed when after game.
[Illustration: SWING GUN ACROSS TARGET AS INDICATED BT ARROWS AND SHOOT
IN PASSING
SHOOT AT BOTH TARGETS ON EACH SWING
Train the Eye, Hand, and Gun to Work in Unison, by Bringing the Gun
Quickly to the Shoulder, Pointing It at the Mark, and Pulling the
Trigger without Stopping the Motion of the Barrels]
As the gunner acquires proficiency in swinging the gun from side to
side, try swinging the gun at different angles, changing the angle
of the swing with each shot, from right to left and upward, at an
oblique angle upward, and so on, until it is possible to hit the mark
with a fair certainty from a variety of angles. When trying out the
several swings, one should always begin slowly and increase the speed
of the swing as he becomes more expert, only making sure to shoot
by calculation and not by guess. The manner of acquiring expertness
sounds easy and is comparatively easy, and, as it is the backbone of
snap-shooting, improvement will be rapid if the novice is willing to
practice slowly and master each detail in turn. Do not make the mistake
of overdoing the thing at the outset by shooting too long at a time. A
box of 25 loads is ample for a day’s practice, since it is not how much
one shoots, but how well, that counts.
Snap-Shooting at Moving Targets
When the gunner has reached the point where he can hit the stationary
target by swinging his gun both fast and slow, he has acquired better
control of the weapon than many old shooters, and he is well prepared
to take up snap-shooting at flying or moving targets. The access to a
gun club where clay birds may be shot at, will prove of much value,
but this is not absolutely necessary, since tin cans, bits of brick,
and bottles, thrown in the air at unknown angles by a companion, will
afford the needed variety. Better than this is one of the inexpensive
“hand traps” which project the regulation clay targets by means
of a powerful spring worked by a trigger. One of the large powder
manufacturers makes a trap of this kind, and a very good trap can be
had for $1.50. The standard clay targets cost about $2.50 a barrel of
500. Practice of this sort may be made a very interesting and highly
instructive sport, providing the targets are projected from different
and unexpected angles, thus simulating the many-angled flight of the
live bird.
Value of Second Barrel in Shooting
The use of the second barrel should not be overlooked in practicing
with the idea of becoming an all-around wing shot, for the second shot
is often needed to kill a cripple, or bring down a bird which has been
missed with the first shot. Two-shot practice should begin by placing
two paper targets about 20 ft. apart, then shooting at the first one
and continuing to swing the gun to cover the second target. Practice
swinging from various angles as directed for the initial practice,
increasing the speed of the swing as proficiency is gained, and fail
not to profit by the mistakes which must inevitably occur to all who
try to master the shotgun. After a reasonable amount of practice,
conducted along these lines, the gunner may venture afield, and if his
acquaintance includes an old seasoned sportsman who will point out the
mistakes made, much may be learned regarding the knack of handling the
gun, as well as relating to the haunts and habits of our wild game
birds.
Cleaning and Care of the Gun
A good shotgun is a thoroughly reliable and dependable weapon, but as
with all tools of the sportsman’s craft, the best results can only be
had when the arm is in good condition. It is gun wisdom always to clean
the weapon after a day’s shooting, and the amateur should make it a
positive rule never to put his gun away until it is cleaned. The sooner
firearms are cleaned after the firing the better, and if cleaned before
the burnt powder has had time to corrode the steel, much future trouble
is saved. In cleaning the barrels, never rest the muzzle against the
floor. If a rest is needed, use an old piece of carpet or a bundle of
rags. Clean from the breech end only, as any slight dust, or burr, at
the muzzle will greatly impair the shooting qualities of any firearm.
Never use a wire-wheel scratchbrush, as it will scratch the polished
steel; a soft brass-wire cleaner is the only suitable implement for
this work. There are several good cleaners to be had. For removing any
rust deposits, a brass brush may be used, while for ordinary cleaning,
plenty of cloth should be run through the barrels, taking care that it
touches every part of the interior. This is easily done by rotating the
cleaning rod as it is pushed through the barrel from the breech to the
muzzle. When putting the gun away, the barrels should be stopped, at
the breech and muzzle, with tightly fitting corks, or gun ropes may be
run through the barrels after soaking them in some good oil. To prevent
rusting, cover the metal, outside as well as inside the barrels, by
smearing on a little heavy lubricating oil. Slip covers of chamois are
often used to protect the stock and barrels before putting them in the
leather case, but stout woolen covers are better, since chamois is
likely to absorb more or less moisture.
The mechanism of a gun is not exactly complicated, but the novice had
better leave well enough alone and not attempt to dismount the locks
or tinker with the mechanism. The modern steel barrel is very hard
and not easily dented, but if so injured, it is better to ship it to
the factory for repairs than to trust it to the crude methods of the
average gun repairman.
A gun should be given ordinary good care, and this is not forthcoming
if one makes a practice of opening it and letting the barrels drop
down with a bang. Snapping the triggers on an empty barrel is likewise
foolish. If one desires to practice trigger pressing, put a couple of
empty shells in the barrels.
If one owns a good-grade shotgun, the stock is probably finished in oil
and hand-rubbed to a nice, durable polish. On cheap arms the varnish is
usually employed to give an attractive finish in the store. Of course,
this varnish will scratch, and otherwise come off, and spoil the
appearance of the arm. If a good finish is wanted, do not re-varnish
the stock, but remove all the old varnish by using a little varnish
remover, and rub down with oil. For an extra-fine polish, wet the wood
to raise the grain; rub down with very fine sandpaper; wet the wood
again, and sandpaper a second or a third time; then rub down with oil
until the wood is saturated with it, and polish with a cloth, using
plenty of pressure, and the stock will be as fine in appearance as if
it had the “London oil finish” supplied with all high-grade guns.
Brass Machine Screws with Nuts
[Illustration]
When small brass machine screws and threaded nuts to fit them are
needed in small devices, or for experimental work, and the necessary
taps and dies are not at hand, secure some old brass globe holders and
cut out the threaded hole for the nut. The fastening-screw arrangement
on these will answer every purpose very well. Enough metal can be left
on each one to fasten it on wood, as shown at A, or they can be cut, as
shown at B, if they are to be soldered to metal.
Snapper-Shell Ash Tray
[Illustration]
An odd and unusual ash tray can be made from a snapping-turtle shell.
Four brass, or wood, balls or knobs, secured with screws, as shown,
will keep it balanced. The exact points to place the supports under the
tray will have to be determined by experiment, as no two shells are of
exactly the same shape.
A Portable Fire Screen
The fire screen illustrated can be constructed at very small expense.
In brief, the screen consists of a light metal frame surrounding three
pieces of ¹⁄₈-in. sheet asbestos. The frames inclosing the asbestos
pieces are hinged together, as shown in Fig. 1, with special hinges
made to meet the requirements.
The asbestos comes in sheets 40 in. square, and this size determines
the outside dimensions of the screen. The size of the different
sections can, of course, be changed if such a change will better suit
the existing needs. By making the screen in sections it may be folded
up and thus occupy much less space, and when in use, the sections, by
placing them at an angle to each other, serve the purpose of legs,
which would be required if the screen were in one straight piece.
The dimensions and form of the outer portions of the frame are given in
Fig. 2, and those of the inner portions, or edges, where the hinges are
attached, are given in Fig. 3. The joining edges of the frames are made
wider than the others for the reason that some of the metal is cut away
where the hinges are attached. These frames may be made from heavy tin
or galvanized iron, and it will be a simple matter for a tinner to bend
them into shape. After all these pieces are bent, fit them together
at the corners, making sure that they clamp tightly on the asbestos
sheets, as these help to hold the frame in shape. Drill a small hole
in each of the corners and provide a small round-head rivet of proper
length for each of the holes. The vertical portions of the frame should
be placed inside of the horizontal, or end, pieces at the corners.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
FIG. 4
Fire Screen Made of Sheet Asbestos Inclosed in Thin Metal Frames Hinged
Together]
Make four pieces of brass having the form and dimensions given in Fig.
4. Two ¹⁄₈-in. holes are drilled in each of these pieces as indicated.
Slots are cut in the inner edges of the frames of such dimensions as
will accommodate these brass pieces. The location of these slots is
given in Fig. 1. Obtain eight pieces of ¹⁄₈-in. steel rod, about 2 in.
long. Place the ends of the brass pieces in the slots in the inner
frame and then put the rods through the holes in the ends of them and
solder the ends of the rods to the inside of the frames. Make sure that
there is no solder run in between the rod and piece of brass, as this
will prevent the hinge from operating freely. After the hinges are in
place, the frames are riveted together. Notches are cut in the edges of
the asbestos sheets at the location of the hinges to allow the latter
free movement. The sections of the screen may be made very rigid by
placing a number of small rivets around the inner edges of the frame to
hold it tightly against the asbestos. The asbestos may be given a coat
of bronze, or be otherwise decorated for appearance.
Tossing a Card at a Mark Accurately
[Illustration: Tossing Cards Accurately so That They will Fall into a
Receptacle Set at a Distance]
There is an interesting old game that can be played instead of
solitaire. It consists in trying to toss the greatest number of cards
into a small basket or an upturned stiff hat, set at a distance. If the
cards are held as shown at A, and tossed as at B, they may be thrown
with surprising accuracy.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
A Sanitary Drinking Tube
[Illustration]
To make this tube, procure a piece of ³⁄₄-in. gauge glass, about 10 in.
long, and bend it by heating the glass with a blowtorch 2¹⁄₂ in. from
one end, as shown. If this is done in a place where no air will strike
the glass while it is heated and the tube is then allowed to cool
slowly, it will not crack. It is used by putting the short end under
the faucet and drawing on it as on a pipe.
A Comb Cleaner
[Illustration: The Twisted Wires Form an Excellent Device for Cleaning
a Comb]
A very handy device for cleaning combs can be made from a piece of
spring sheet brass, 4¹⁄₂ in. long and about 3 in. wide. Notches are
cut in the ends of the brass with a hacksaw, making the projections as
wide as the saw cut. The brass is then bent into shape with a special
clamp made for the purpose, which consists of three pieces of wood, two
being cut to form a curved slot, then fastened to the third piece. The
brass is sprung into the slot, and then fine wire is stretched between
the ends in the notches. The wire should be very fine and two strands
twisted together and run through the notches.
Concealing the House Key
The time-honored custom of concealing the house key under the door mat,
or in the letter box, when the family has not enough keys to go around,
is so well known that an unauthorized person seeking to enter the house
would look in these places first of all.
[Illustration]
A simple and effective hiding place for the key can be quickly and
easily made with the aid of an auger and two pieces of tin. Pick out an
obscure section of the porch railing, and in the edge of this bore a
³⁄₄-in. hole, about ¹⁄₄ in. deeper than the length of the key. Make a
piece of tin into a cylinder, the same length as the key, so that the
latter will slide easily into the hole. At one end of this cylinder
solder a 1-in. disk of tin, which will make it appear as in the
illustration.
If the key is placed in the cylinder and the latter pushed into the
hole until it is flush with the surface, it will scarcely be noticed
by anyone not in the secret, and by painting it the same color as the
railing it will become still more inconspicuous.--Contributed by Frank
L. Matter, Portland, Ore.
A Mysterious Watch
[Illustration]
A very interesting experiment may be made with the ordinary dollar
watch in illustrating the law of the pendulum. A pendulum 39.1 in.
long will make 60 one-way swings per minute, the number of swings
varying inversely as the square root of the length. By actual count
it was found that the balance wheel of the watch in question made 240
one-way swings per minute, which is just 4 times as fast as the 39-in.
pendulum. Therefore, according to the foregoing law, a pendulum ¹⁄₁₆
as long, or about 2¹⁄₂ in., would swing in unison with the wheel of
the watch. The question then arises as to what would happen if the
watch itself were suspended so as to swing as a pendulum of the latter
length. The experiment was made as illustrated, with the result that
the watch keeps on swinging continuously. The swing amounts to about
³⁄₈ in., and appears so vigorous that it is almost incomprehensible
that the small spring in a watch should be able to maintain so much
weight in continuous motion for 24 hours.
[Illustration: Bait Casting for Game Fish
by Stillman Taylor]
There are many enjoyable phases of the fisher’s art, but bait casting
from the free reel probably has a wider appeal than any other branch
of angling. The pleasure of handling a short bait-casting rod is in
itself a good sport, even when casting done in the back yard is made
for distance and accuracy only. Get two or three enthusiastic casters
together, and you may have an interesting little tournament, held on
a vacant lot, on the lake, or on the greensward of a city park. There
is plenty of action in casting from the reel, and it is its variety
that has made angling of this type so universally popular. True,
considerable practice is required before the caster is able to shoot
an accurate plug far off, but the knack may be gained after reasonable
application. The handling of the short rod differs from all other
angling methods--it is an active sport rather than a contemplative
recreation--and when the fun of handling a good outfit is combined with
the sport of coaxing out a black bass, shooting a wooden minnow among
the lily pads for pickerel, or casting the bait for those pirates of
our fresh-water lakes, the wall-eyed pike and the muskellunge, the
angler gets a taste of fishing--plus.
The Outfit and Its Selection
A good firearm is necessary to the good marksman and a well-made,
nicely balanced rod, to which is clamped a smooth-running reel, is the
essential equipment of an able angler. Bait casting is, of course,
more a matter of skill than of outfit, but that is no reason why the
angler should be handicapped by poor tackle, although large expenditure
is not necessary in obtaining a satisfactory outfit. The casting rod
may be from 5 to 6 ft. long. Where the caster regards length of cast
as the important factor, the 5-ft. length will probably give the best
satisfaction. However, the superiority of one over the other in this
regard is rather to be found in the elasticity and quality of the rod
than its length. The skill of the caster is, moreover, the ruling
factor. The 5¹⁄₂-ft. rod is better than the 5-ft. length for fishing
purposes, and the 6-ft. rod is more resilient than the 5¹⁄₂-ft. tip. If
the greatest range is not of more importance than the landing of the
fish, the longer rod will prove the most pleasant to handle.
The split-bamboo rod has many friends, and a well-made rod of this
material is a thoroughly satisfactory casting tool. A fine-quality
casting rod of split bamboo costs from $10 to $25. A fairly good rod
may be bought for $2 or a trifle less, and a smooth-running reel for
another $2, while a line for it will bring the total up to about $5. An
outfit of this kind purchased with discrimination, while not embodying
everything that a critical angler would desire, will cast a long and
accurate line and stand up under the strain of handling our heaviest
game fish. The one-piece rod is classed by many anglers as the ideal
casting rod. The two-piece rod is handier to pack and is more generally
used.
The chief fault in bait-casting rods is the stiff action of the tip
section. For tournament casting, a fairly stiff rod is desirable. The
same requirement holds good for muskellunge and other heavy fishing.
A flexible rod affords more pleasure in playing black bass and other
active “gamey” fish. However, the best way to test out a rod is by
casting with it.
[Illustration: A Serviceable Reel Costing $4, a High-Grade Reel Costing
$13.50, and a Fine Tournament Casting Reel Costing $26, are Shown
from Left to Right. The Center One Has a Level-Winding Device and a
Thumb-Click Drag on the Rims of the Plates. The Tournament Casting Reel
Has a Cork Arbor and Jeweled Bearings]
The steel casting rod is well liked by some casters, but only a
high-quality steel rod is worthy of consideration. It is generally not
classed as the equal of a well-made solid-wood or split-bamboo rod,
for casting. The better-grade steel rod is springy and flexible, and
for this reason is a good rod for casting for black bass. Still, most
anglers have a steel rod in their outfits, but it is not as generally
used at tournaments as the time-tried wooden rod.
The guide is an important detail of a casting rod. Inexpensive rods are
usually provided with large metal guides, while the better rods are
fitted with agate guides, or with agate tip and hand guides. A guide,
¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, at the butt of the rod is large enough and will
handle the line smoothly.
The single grip is sometimes preferred by casters, but the additional
grip placed above the reel is desirable if much fishing is done.
Solid-cork hand grasps are most satisfactory, being less slippery when
wet and less tiring to the hand than handles made of other materials.
If the lower grip is properly shaped with a forward edge, the
forefinger will find a firm grip upon it, and the finger hook will not
be needed. However, some anglers prefer to use the hook, and if the rod
is not so fitted, a detachable hook may be fastened to it. A reel band
that locks securely is desirable, and all the better grades of casting
rods are so fitted.
The quadruple reel is the logical choice of the bait caster, the spool
turning four times to one turn of the handle. As the work demanded of
a bait-casting reel is different and more exacting than that of the
click reel used in fly casting, its design is radically different. The
best type of click reel is of large spool diameter and narrow between
plates, while the typical casting reel is its direct opposite--being
long-barreled, with plates of comparatively small diameter. For
tournament casting the finest outfit will naturally be selected, but
for practical work it is unnecessary to pay $25 for a finely wrought
reel. Three typical reels are shown in the illustration. The one at
the left holds 80 yd. of line, can be easily taken apart for cleaning,
and costs $4. In the center is a level-winding reel with thumb click
and adjustable drag placed on the rims of the plates. It holds 60 yd.
of line, and costs $13.50. At the right is a very high-grade reel for
tournament casting. It has a cork arbor, jeweled bearings holds 60 yd.
of line, and costs $26.
Any of the better grades of braided silk are suitable for the
bait-casting line. The average price for a dependable line is about $1
for 50 yd. A small size line is best, and sizes G and E are preferred.
A brown and green, or other dark-colored, line is preferable for
fishing. The black and white, all white and other light-colored, lines
are satisfactory for tournament use. After a day’s fishing the line
should be unreeled and looped around the back of a chair in loose coils
to dry, or loosely wound upon a drying reel.
For practice and tournament casting one of the standard ¹⁄₄ and ¹⁄₂-oz.
loaded wooden or metal plugs may be used. The popularity of bait
casting from the reel has brought forth a large variety of artificial
baits. These wooden and enameled lures are used by anglers because they
bring the catches.
The wooden minnows, and other forms of artificial bait, may be roughly
classed in three divisions: the surface lures for use on top of the
water; the diving and under-water baits; and the weedless varieties,
which are usually of the surface type. No bait caster’s outfit is
complete unless it includes one bait of each class, and to meet fully
the different and varying conditions of weather, season, and water,
it is a good plan to select one of each type in light and medium-dark
colors. A variety of typical baits are shown in the page plate at
A, B, C, etc. Many of the baits are provided with one or more eyes
for attaching the line, thus enabling the caster to spin his bait at
different depths. All of the wooden-body baits will float, and only
dive under the surface when reeled in; the quicker they are retrieved
the deeper they spin. While many of these baits have been designed
especially to entice the black bass, practically all of them are good
for pickerel and general fresh-water casting, particularly the minnow
baits.
The other items which complete the bait caster’s outfit are the landing
net and tackle box. The net should be well made, with a steel hoop 13
in. or larger in diameter, and should have a handle about 3 ft. long.
The folding type of net is the most convenient, and is provided with
a separate handle. The tackle box may be of sheet metal or leather,
with partitions for holding reels, baits, and the angling “what not.” A
convenient and serviceable landing net costs $1 or more, and a tackle
box will cost about as much.
Suggestions on Making the Cast
Although much practice is required before the caster can take his place
in a tournament, “getting the hang” of handling the short rod and
free-running reel comes quickly. As soon as the simple principles are
understood, length and accuracy will come only through practice. Bait
casting is easier than fly casting and the angler need concern himself
only with the length and accuracy of his cast, since delicacy does not
enter into this phase of fishing. The coarser sweet-water fish, like
black bass and pickerel, are not frightened when the bait hits the
water with a splash--indeed, the splash of the bait attracts them.
Two methods of casts are used by bait casters, the overhead and the
underhand or side cast. The overhead cast is used largely by the
practical angler, as well as by those who take part in tournament
contests, because the bait is projected a longer distance and may be
more accurately placed. If the novice will thumb the line, as shown
in Fig. 1, with thumb bearing directly on the cross rod of the reel
with the ball of the thumb resting lightly on the line, one or two
trials will show the correct manner of spooling. The line is retrieved
as shown in Fig. 2, care being taken to form correct habits from the
start. To make the cast, reel in the bait until it is some 6 in. from
the tip, release the click or drag, and press the ball of the thumb
firmly upon the spooled line. Carry the rod over the shoulder until it
is horizontal or nearly so, as in Fig. 3, and then bring it smartly
forward, checking it quickly when it reaches an angle of some 45°, as
shown in Fig. 4. This projects the bait forward in a straight line.
When the rod is brought forward the tension of the thumb on the spool
is released so that the spool will revolve freely, but enough pressure
must be communicated by the thumb to prevent the reel from spinning
faster than the line is unreeled from the spool, otherwise backlash
will occur. The use of the whole arm and the weight of the body,
combined with the elasticity of the pliant rod, enables the caster to
cover a surprisingly long distance after a little practice. A distance
of 150 ft. is not difficult to attain, but for fishing, a well-placed
cast of 60 or 75 ft. is long enough to reach promising stretches of
water.
[Illustration:
A
FIG. 3
B
The Method of Thumbing the Line is Shown in Figure 1, and the Correct
form in Retrieving the Line, in Figure 2. The Overhead Cast is
Illustrated in Figures 3 and 4, and the Underhand or Side Cast in
Figures 5 and 6
C
D
FIG. 4
FIG. 1
E
F
FIG. 2
FIG. 5
Typical Baits:
A, Under-Water Minnow;
B, Wabbler Spoon;
C, Bass;
D, Fluted Wabbler;
E, Weedless;
F, Diving;
G, Combination Color, Taste, and Smell;
H, Spoon and Minnow Bass;
I, Surface
G
H
FIG. 6
I]
The underhand or side cast is somewhat easier to master, and is made
much in the same way as the overhead cast, only the rod is swung
horizontally to the rear, the tip on a level with the angler’s chest,
as shown in Fig. 5. Bring the rod forward smartly in the direction it
is desired to shoot the bait, check the rod when about horizontal,
partly releasing the pressure of the thumb, just enough to allow the
spool to revolve freely, and check the line as the bait hits the water.
Figure 5 shows the beginning of the side cast and Fig. 6 the cast
completed. This cast is useful when fishing from a shore overhung with
trees, and with practice the bait may be projected a long distance.
The chief factor of skill in bait casting from the reel lies in
controlling the line, and the thumb must be trained to do this through
practice. Some casters turn the reel sideways with the handle downward
while making the cast, but the majority keep the reel level and cast
with it in the same position as when reeling in. Thumbing the line is
easiest done when the spool is well filled, and if the casting line
is not long enough to do this, sufficient common line should be first
wound on to fill it.
The successful bait caster is one who possesses an intimate knowledge
of the fish he casts for, and while a lengthy exposition is not to
form a part of this article, reference to the fish commonly sought by
the caster will not be amiss. The fish generally of interest to the
bait caster are small and large-mouth black bass, pike, muskellunge,
and pickerel. The small-mouth black bass is classed as the finest game
fish, ounce for ounce, by many casters. The muskellunge, often confused
with the Great Lakes or English pike, is more limited in range than the
pike, being found in the Great Lakes region and the waters of the St.
Lawrence River.
Since the habits and general characteristics of the large-mouth bass
are much the same as its near relative, the small-mouth, the following
hints apply to both. When wading, it is well to cast downstream. Cast
in the shallows, near the weeds and snags, and close to stumps. As
little noise should be made as possible.
For early-spring casting, bass are likely to be found in the shallows
and sheltered places during the day, because the water is cool at this
season. The pickerel will also be found in the warmer and shallower
waters. The most successful baits at this time are the diving minnows,
and other under-water lures. As the warmer days of late spring and
early summer appear, the bass swim out into deeper and cooler water,
while the pickerel remain close to the lily pads. The wooden minnows
are excellent baits to use at this season. When the weeds are very
thick, one of the several kinds of weedless baits may be used.
The early-morning and late-afternoon hours are the best for midsummer
casting, and the shallow places are the good spots to work over. If
there are any brooks or streams emptying into the lake or pond, do not
neglect to work this stretch well at the mouth. When the sun is low,
the white or light-colored surface baits may be substituted for the
medium-dark colored diving varieties, and for casting after dark, a
luminous or moonlight bait will often give good results. During the
fall months fishing conditions are similar to casting in the spring,
but the deep water is then the warmest, and the under-water or diving
baits are usually the best.
To catch bass, the angler must cast his bait where the fish are
feeding, and he will find it an advantage to match natural conditions,
so far as possible, in selecting his baits. For casting on bright
days in clear waters, the red, white and red, white, or green minnows
are good lures, as are also the silverplated spoon baits. Cast well
ahead of the boat, and reel in very slowly to keep the plug spinning
well below the surface. On cloudy days and in muddy waters, after a
heavy rain, for example, use red and yellow baits and goldplated or
burnished-copper spoons. The best all-around bait--equally good for
bass and pickerel--is one of the green-backed minnows, but no one bait
can be expected to meet all conditions, hence the caster should have a
fair assortment of baits.
A stiff casting rod with plenty of backbone is essential for
muskellunge. The angler is out after big game and must be prepared for
the sport. A hard, braided silk line, size E, and 3-0 or 4-0 hooks,
snelled and swiveled, are the best. Any of the wooden baits suitable
for pickerel--the minnows especially--are good for muskellunge. A man
to handle the oars is a handy companion, and after casting the bait
just outside the weed bed, make for deep water as soon as a fish is
hooked. The fish will be seen and felt quickly enough, and when it
breaks water and leaps in the air, give it a little slack line quickly,
otherwise the strain will snap the leader. A twisted, bronzed trace
is the best to use between line and bait, and this need not be longer
than a foot--6 in. is enough. When the fish is brought alongside,
shoot him through the head with a revolver which is probably the most
satisfactory manner of making an easy landing.
A Cat-Proof Bird Table
[Illustration]
Our bird table is a source of great enjoyment, particularly since
the birds feel secure from cats or other enemies because of the
construction of this ornament in our garden. The sketch shows the
arrangement of the table braced at the top of a 6-ft. post. Shrubbery
surrounds the table and a light evergreen climber clings to the post,
yet does not give the cats a good foothold.
Experience has taught us that birds in general prefer bread crumbs to
other varieties of food, and they are also fond of cracked wheat. The
linnets like oranges particularly. We cut an orange in two and place
the halves on the table. It is amusing to see the birds balance on one
side of the orange while they peck at the fruit. Soon the orange peel
is almost entirely emptied. We provide a small basin of fresh water
on the table, and the birds use it as a drinking cup as well as a
bathtub.--F. H. Sweet, Waynesboro, Va.
Making Photographic Prints Glossy
Pictures printed on glossy, semi-glossy, or semimat paper may be given
a high gloss by the following method: Obtain a sheet of clean glass,
without scratches, and apply a solution of a piece of paraffin, the
size of a walnut, in one pint of gasoline. Use a soft cloth, and when
the glass is dry, rub until all traces are removed. Soak the prints in
water for 10 minutes and place them on the glass, face down. Place a
clean blotter over them and roll on it with a print roller, to remove
excess water and to give them a good contact with the glass. Dry the
prints in a warm place, preferably where there is a draft.--M. E.
Fuller, Detroit, Michigan.
Shaving-Brush Holder
A shaving brush is injured by permitting it to remain in the mug to
dry. It should be suspended with the hair down so that it may dry
thoroughly and quickly. A hook made from a piece of wire bent to form
a loop, with a pointed section at each side of it, may be made easily.
The loop should be of a size to fit the thin portion of the handle, and
the pointed ends of the wire are driven into the wall or other support.
A loop may be made at each end instead of pointing the wire and the
device fixed to the wall with two small screws placed through the end
loops.
[Illustration: How To Build A Canoe
By Stillman Taylor
PART I
Specifications and List of Materials]
Canoe making is commonly considered more difficult than building
the larger and heavier craft but many amateurs with only ordinary
experience and tools have turned out satisfactory canoes, and if the
simple directions given here are carefully followed out, the work will
proceed rapidly and no difficulty will be encountered. Working with
light materials, the canoe builder must pay particular attention to
the workmanship, and, as it is many times more difficult to patch up
mistakes in a canoe than it is in rowboats or other heavier craft, the
work must not be hurried, but plenty of time taken to do each and every
part well and in a workmanlike manner.
The craft described, which is the regulation open or Canadian model,
is comparatively light and draws very little water. It is not a flimsy
makeshift, but a stiff and thoroughly dependable canoe designed for
long service, which, barring accidents and given reasonably good care,
will continue to give satisfaction for many years. The tools needed are
the common ones found in most homes, consisting of a rip and cross-cut
saw, chisel, screwdriver, drawknife, awl, brace and bits, rule, hammer,
vise, plane, and three or four cheap wood, or metal, screw clamps. The
list of material given is for a canoe having a length of about 16 ft.,
31-in. beam, 18-in. depth at the ends, 12¹⁄₂-in. depth amidships, and
weighing from 60 to 70 lb., according to the material.
While oak or ash makes the best stems, other woods may be used, rock
elm and fir being very satisfactory substitutes. Where cedar is
specified, spruce pine, cypress, or fir may likewise be employed. The
materials for molds and ribbands, which are required to give form to
the craft, may be cut from any cheap stuff, and this will reduce the
cost somewhat.
STEM, 1 piece oak or ash, 6 ft. long and ³⁄₄ in. square.
KEELSON, (inside keel) 1 piece oak or ash 14 ft. long, 3¹⁄₂ in. wide,
³⁄₈ in. thick.
GUNWALES, 2 pieces oak or ash, 16 ft. long, ⁷⁄₈ in. wide, ¹⁄₂ in.
thick.
SEAT RISINGS, 2 pieces oak or ash, ¹⁄₂ in. square.
FENDERWALES, 34 ft. ¹⁄₂-in. half-round molding. Oak or ash best for
hard knocks.
OUTSIDE KEEL (may be omitted if desired), 1 piece oak, 14 ft. by 1
in. by ¹⁄₂ in. thick.
DECK BEAMS, 2 pieces oak or ash, 8 in. long, 1¹⁄₈ in. wide, ³⁄₄ in.
thick.
SEAT FRAMES, 2 pieces oak or ash, 30 in. long, 3 in. wide, ³⁄₄ in.
thick.
SEAT FRAMES, 2 pieces oak or ash, 12 in. long, 2¹⁄₄ in. wide, ³⁄₄ in.
thick.
PLANKING, cedar or pine, 100 sq. ft., ¹⁄₈ in. thick. Best secured by
purchasing 25 ft. of 1-in. lumber, and having same dressed on two
sides to ¹⁄₈ in. thick, and in lengths of 12, 14 and 16 ft. This will
give the minimum amount of waste.
BACKBONE, 1 piece cedar or pine, any cheap stuff, 16 ft. long, 4 in.
wide, ⁷⁄₈ in. thick.
MOLDS, 1 piece any cheap stuff, 16 ft. long, 1 ft. wide, ⁷⁄₈ in.
thick.
RIBBANDS, 8 pieces any cheap stuff, 14 ft. long, ³⁄₄ in. wide, ¹⁄₂
in. thick.
RIBS, 360 running feet, cedar, 1³⁄₄ in. wide, ¹⁄₈ in. thick.
BREAST HOOKS OR DECKS, 1 piece cedar or oak, 32 in. long, 9 in. wide,
³⁄₄ in. thick.
1 lb. 2-in. wire nails to make form for keel.
1 lb. ⁵⁄₈-in. copper clout nails, for fastening ribs.
¹⁄₂ lb. ³⁄₄-in. copper clout nails, for fastening seat risings.
18 1¹⁄₄-in. No. 8 brass screws, for fastening decks and deck beams.
24 1-in. No. 6 brass screws, for fastening seats.
4 lb. patent marine glue to cement canvas to planking.
3 oz. No. 2 ounce copper tacks to fasten canvas with.
11³⁄₄ yd. No. 6 ounce canvas for covering hull.
1 lb. ³⁄₈-in. copper tacks to fasten planking to ribs.
The Backbone and Molds
The first step in the construction of a canoe is to get out the
backbone and the molds, or forms, which give the correct dimensions
and shape of the craft. The backbone may be made from any inexpensive
soft wood, such as cedar, spruce, pine, or cypress; and for making it a
piece of lumber, 16 ft. long, 4 in. wide, and ⁷⁄₈ in. thick, is used.
By referring to Fig. 1 it will be seen that the upper edge measures
exactly 15 ft. 8³⁄₄ in., and that the lower edge is ¹⁄₂ in. longer,
giving a total length of 15 ft. 9¹⁄₄ in. The spaces numbered from each
end of the backbone toward the center, as 1, 2, 3, and 4, indicate
where the corresponding molds are to be placed. Seven molds are used
and as a canoe is tapered alike at both ends the molds are numbered
alike and are made exactly to the same dimensions.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
The First Step in the Construction of a Canoe Is to Get Out the
Backbone and the Molds, or Forms, Which Give the Correct Dimensions and
Shapes of the Craft]
A good way to lay out the backbone accurately is first to mark the
total length, making the lower edge 1 in. longer than represented in
Fig. 1, then measure along the top edge exactly 22¹⁄₄ in., and run
a pencil line across. From this line measure off ³⁄₄ in. and draw a
second line across the width of the board parallel with the first. This
space represents the thickness of the mold, and it is marked 1. Measure
off 23¹⁄₄ in. and make two parallel lines as before and number it 2,
measure another 23¹⁄₄-in. length and number it 3. Begin measuring from
the opposite end of the board as in the first instance, 22¹⁄₄ in. and
give it number 1, then mark off 2 and 3 the same as for the end already
marked. The board is then cut off at the bevel mark at each end.
The Molds or Forms
The molds which give the form to the hull are shown and numbered in
the order that they are fastened to the backbone. To get out No. 1
mold draw a rectangle on a sheet of stiff paper exactly 13⁵⁄₈ in.
long and 11 in. wide as shown in Fig. 2. Run cross lines to divide it
in quarters and mark out the center mortise for the backbone, which
is 5 in. deep and ⁷⁄₈ in. wide. Measure 4 in. toward each side from
the outside edge of the backbone mortise and mark the mortises for
receiving the gunwales, which are 1⁵⁄₈ in. long and ³⁄₄ in. wide or
deep. To obtain the correct bilge curve lay the rule on the bottom
line and measure off exactly 1 in. to the left of the center dividing
line and make dot 0. Measure 2³⁄₄ in. farther to the left, to A; turn
the rule at right angles and measure 2¹⁄₈ in. inside the line and make
dot 1. Measure 1¹⁄₂ in. to the left of A, turn rule at right angles
and measure up the sheet exactly 4⁷⁄₈ in. and make dot 2, which will
be ¹⁄₄ in. inside of the left vertical line. On the center horizontal
line, which is 1¹⁵⁄₁₆ in. above dot 2, mark dot 3, ¹⁄₁₆ in. from the
left vertical line. Measure off 2 in. above the horizontal center line
and make dot 4 on the vertical line. The space between these two dots
is the widest part of the bilge curve. Lay the rule on the bottom line
of the gunwale mortise and measure off ³⁄₁₆ in. from the outside line
and make dot 5. Pencil the angle from dot to dot and draw in the full
curve. Cut out the half section, fold on the vertical center line, and
draw the right side.
[Illustration: FIG. 2]
Two complete No. 2 molds are required, but it is more convenient to
make each mold in two sections. Each half is made 11¹⁄₂ in. wide and
12 in. deep, as shown in Fig. 3. First draw a rectangle to these
dimensions and run cross lines to divide it into quarters. Beginning
at the upper right-hand corner, mark the mortises for gunwales and
backbone, which, being only one-half of the complete form, will be
⁷⁄₁₆ in. wide and 3¹⁄₄ in. deep. Laying the rule on the outside line
immediately below the mortise, draw a second mortise for the keel,
which is ³⁄₈ in. deep and 1¹⁄₂ in. wide in the half section. Measure
off 1³⁄₄ in. to the left along the bottom line from keel mortise and
make dot 1. The dot 2 is made by measuring 2¹⁄₂ in. to the left of 1,
turning the rule at right angles at B and measuring ⁵⁄₁₆ in. inside the
line as shown in the sketch. Make the dot 3 at a point 1³⁄₄ in. to the
left of 2 and ³⁄₄ in. inside of the line. The dot 4 is 1³⁄₄ in. from C
and 1³⁄₄ in. inside of the line. The dot 5 is 1¹⁄₄ in. farther to the
left and 3¹⁄₄ in. inside of the line. The dot 6 is ⁵⁄₈ in. from dot 5
and 4³⁄₄ in. inside of the line, which will bring it ³⁄₈ in. inside of
the left vertical line. At a point 1¹⁄₂ in. above 6 make dot 7 on the
marginal line, and dot 8, 1¹⁄₄ in. above it. Between the dots 7 and 8
is the widest part of the bilge curve. Dot 9 in exactly ¹⁄₄ in. inside
of the vertical marginal line. These dots produce the angles, and it
is only necessary to trace in the full curve and cut it out to make a
pattern for the other three half sections needed.
[Illustration: FIG. 3
It Is More Convenient to Make Each Mold in Two Sections, as Two
Complete Molds are Required]
The molds No. 3, Fig. 4, are located near the center of the canoe and
are made a trifle wider. Make a rectangle 14³⁄₈ in. long by 12 in. wide
and draw cross line dividing it into quarters. Trace the half mortises
for the backbone, gunwale, and keel from the No. 2 mold pattern. Lay
the rule on the bottom line and measure off ¹⁄₂ in. to the left from
the center vertical line and mark dot 1, which is the beginning of the
bilge curve. At a point 2³⁄₄ in. to the left and ³⁄₄ in. inside of the
line place dot 2, and 2 in. to the left of this and 2¹⁄₄ in. inside of
the line place dot 3, then 1¹⁄₈ in. farther to the left turn the rule
at right angles and measure up 4 in. inside of the line for dot 4,
which is ¹³⁄₁₆ in. inside of the left marginal line. At a point 2 in.
above dot 4 make dot 5 on the marginal line and 2¹⁄₈ in. above it make
dot 6. The space between gives the widest part of the bilge curve, with
dot 7 exactly ¹⁄₄ in. inside of the marginal line, measuring along the
bottom of the gunwale mortise. Trace the angle and from it run the full
curve and use this for a pattern for cutting out the other molds.
[Illustration: FIG. 4
This Mold is Located near the Centre of a Canoe and is Made a Trifle
Wider]
Mold No. 4 is placed amidships in the center of the canoe and only one
complete mold is required, as shown in Fig. 5. To make a pattern draw
a rectangle 15 in. long and 12 in. wide, and divide it into four equal
parts as before. From the No. 3 mold pattern trace in the mortises for
the gunwale, backbone, and keel. Lay the rule on the bottom outside
line and measure 2 in. from the center line to the left at D and turn
the rule at right angles and measure off ⁵⁄₁₆ in. inside of the bottom
line and make dot 1. Measure, from D, 1¹⁄₂ in. to E, turn the rule up
and measure off ⁵⁄₈ in. inside the line and make dot 2. The dot 3 is
1¹⁄₂ in. farther to the left and 1¹⁄₄ in. inside the line and dot 4 is
1 in. to the left of 3 and 2 in. inside of the line. The dot 5 is 1¹⁄₄
in. to the left of dot 4, and 4 in. inside of the bottom line, which
will bring it ¹⁄₄ in. inside of the left vertical side line. At a point
2 in. above dot 5 make dot 6 on the outside vertical line and 1¹⁄₄ in.
above it make dot 7. The space between dots 6 and 7 gives the widest
part of the correct bilge curve. Exactly 3³⁄₄ in. above dot 7 and
¹⁄₄ in. inside of the vertical side line make dot 8, which marks the
beginning of the bilge curve above the water line and at the gunwale
mortise. The curve of the canoe floor is quite flat, but not exactly
a straight line. Lay the rule on the bottom line and measure up, on
the inner edge of the keel mortise, ¹⁄₈ in., then 2¹⁄₂ in. to the left
make a mark, F, ¹⁄₁₆ in. inside the bottom line and a pencil line drawn
between them will enable one to trace the correct curve. Having cut out
the pattern make two wood forms exactly alike to have it complete, as
shown. After finishing the seven complete molds, fasten them securely
together by nailing a couple of battens across the halves.
[Illustration: FIG. 5
This Mold is Placed Amidships, in the Center of the Canoe, and Only One
is Required]
[Illustration: FIG. 6
Straight-Grained Material must be Selected for the Stems, as It Is
Necessary to Bend Them to Shape]
The Ribbands and Stems
The ribbands are merely strips of wood, ³⁄₄ in. wide, ¹⁄₂ in. thick,
and 14 ft. long. Any cheap stuff will do because they are only used
to give the correct shape of the canoe curve while building it. Six
ribbands are necessary, and it is best to use eight lengths in order to
make sure that the ribs are bent at the required angle and that both
sides of the canoe are ribbed at the one uniform curve. For the stems
ash or oak, ³⁄₄ in. square, is used, and straight-grained material must
be selected since it is necessary to bend them to obtain the requisite
curve.
To make the pattern for the stem mold, shown in Fig. 6, draw a
rectangle, 24¹⁄₂ in. long by 12 in. wide, and divide it into four equal
parts. Lay the rule on the left side at the upper corner, at G, measure
down 1 in. and make dot 1. Lay the rule along the top horizontal line
and measure 2¹⁄₂ in. from G and make dot 2, then draw a pencil line
between them. From dot 1 measure along this line exactly ³⁄₄ in.,
and make dot 3. From dot 2 measure straight down 1³⁄₄ in. to H, turn
at right angles and measure off ⁵⁄₈ in. to the right and make dot 4,
and make a pencil line from 2 to 4 as shown. From dot 2 lay the rule
parallel with the top horizontal line and measure off 9³⁄₄ in., turn at
right angles and measure down on the center line 2¹⁄₄ in. and make dot
5.
Lay the rule at the upper right corner and measure down the vertical
line 2³⁄₄ in., turn the rule at right angles and measure off 3⁷⁄₈ in.
and make dot 6. From the upper right-hand corner measure off 1⁵⁄₈ in.
and make dot 7 exactly ¹⁄₄ in. inside the top horizontal line. Again
place the rule at the right-hand corner, measure down the vertical line
exactly 2 in. and make dot 8. Draw the line from dot 7 to 8, and ¹⁄₂
in. from dot 8, make dot 9. This gives the correct contour of the stem
where it joins the splice of the keel.
[Illustration: FIG. 7
It Is Not Necessary to Make a Paper Pattern for the Keel, or Keelson,
as the Piece is Merely Tapered Uniformly from the Center to Ends, and
It can be Drawn Direct on the Board]
The greatest curve and width of the stem is at J on the lower line. To
obtain the correct curve begin at the upper left corner and measure
from dot 1 down the vertical line 4¹⁄₂ in. to K, turn the rule at
right angles and measure 1¹⁄₄ in. inside the line, and make dot 10.
The dot 11 is placed by measuring down from K exactly 3¹⁄₄ in. to L,
when the rule is turned at right angles and a length of 4 in. measured
off inside of the line. The dot 12 is located in the same manner by
measuring 2³⁄₄ in. below L and running 8³⁄₄ in. inside the line, as
shown.
To finish the irregular curve of the stem, measure from J at the center
of the lower horizontal line 2 in. to M, turn the rule up and measure
off ¹⁄₂ in. inside of the line, and make dot 13. The dot 14 is made by
measuring off 4 in. from M to N and turning the rule to a point 3 in.
inside the line, as shown. Then from point N measure to O 1¹⁄₄ in., and
then measure up 4 in. to dot 15. From the dot 14 to 15 run a straight
line. The dot 15 should be exactly 5 in. inside of the right vertical
line.
Allowance for the beveled splice of the stem to the inside keel must
now be made, and the beginning is to run a light pencil line from dot
15 to dot 6. From dot 15 measure up ¹⁄₂ in., turn the rule at P and
make dot 16 exactly ¹⁄₄ in. to the left of the upright line. From dot
16 a line is run to dot 8 which completes the angle of the curve. The
full curve is then easily traced in.
The Inside Keel, or Keelson
The inside keel, or keelson, is made exactly 13 ft. 11 in. long and
3¹⁄₂ in. wide in the center, which is, of course, amidships. It is
unnecessary to go to the trouble of making a paper pattern for this
because the keel is merely tapered uniformly from center to ends, and
this may be drawn on the surface of the board direct. The board being
13 ft. 11 in. long and 3¹⁄₂ in. wide, it is only necessary to make
cross lines exactly in the center both ways. From the center measure 1
ft. toward one end and make the width at that point 3¹⁄₂ in. Measure
1 ft. farther along, and again make the width 3¹⁄₂ in. as before.
Continue in this manner, making the third station 3¹⁄₄ in.; the fourth,
2⁵⁄₈ in.; the fifth, 2 in.; the sixth, 1¹⁄₄ in., and the width at the
ends ¹⁵⁄₁₆ in. This detail is well shown in Fig. 7. Bend the stem on
the mold and fasten it to the keel by means of a couple of ³⁄₄-in. No.
10 screws at each end.
The Ribs and Gunwales
[Illustration: FIG. 8
The Ribs are Fastened to the Outside of the Keelson and are Curved
under the Ribbands]
The ribs are best made of cedar, cut from the same material as the
planking. They are 1³⁄₄ in. wide and ¹⁄₈ in. thick. It is a good plan
to saw out several long lengths and cut them off as required, the
length being determined by measuring from gunwale to gunwale around
the curve over the ribbands. The ribs are put in under the ribbands,
and the thickness of the latter will allow sufficient wood for making
a good fit at the sheer line. The gunwales are two straight strips, 16
ft. long, ⁷⁄₈ in. wide, and ¹⁄₂ in. thick.
[Illustration: FIG. 9
The Bent Stem is Fastened to the Keel with Screws at Both Ends]
Setting Up the Canoe
Having made all the material ready, the work of setting up the canoe
may begin, and as it is built upside down, place the backbone on
boxes, about 1 ft. or more above the floor, and place the molds in the
numbered places on the backbone, allowing the backbone to rest upon the
bottom of the mortises cut in the top of the molds. Study Figs. 8 and 9
before beginning the work of setting up the hull.
True up the molds with a square and fasten them firmly by toenailing
them to the backbone. Put the keelson in place, allowing it to fit down
in the mortises cut in the molds to receive it. Take particular care
that the stems are a good fit with the angle of the backbone at the
ends, then fasten by nailing through the top edge of the mold into the
stems. As shown in the stem-mold drawing, Fig. 6, the splice where the
stem fits the keelson must be cut out after it is bent into place. This
is easily done by marking around the outside edge of the stem and then
beveling from the inside on each side. The outer edge is left about ¹⁄₈
in. wide, and the bevel runs out to the width of the keel at the lower
end.
The gunwales are next put on at the sheer line, and fastened to the
molds and stems, leaving sufficient of the nails exposed to make them
easily withdrawn later on. The four ribbands are then put on each
side, at equal distances apart, between the gunwale and keel, or at
5-in. centers, measuring from the keel up toward the gunwale. Fasten
the ribbands by driving 1¹⁄₄-in. brads through them into the mold.
Measure off the keel for the ribs, which should be put on 3 in. apart,
measuring from the centers. The ribs are fastened to the outside of
the keelson and are curved under the ribbands. Fasten each rib to the
keel by means of two ⁵⁄₈-in. copper clout nails, then spring them into
place and fasten to the gunwales. Put in all the ribs in the same way,
spacing them so that a rib will be placed over each mold. When all the
ribs are put in, remove the ribbands, and begin planking the hull.
Planking the Canoe
As a canoe is planked with ¹⁄₈-in. cedar it is easily bent to the curve
of the ribs while cold, thus doing away with the trouble of steaming.
Unlike heavier-planked craft the planking is not rabbeted at the stem
but is nailed to the beveled surface. For strength and to give a
perfectly smooth skin on which to lay the canvas, it is advisable to
run the planking the full length from stem to stem. Begin by putting on
the garboard strake, which is the bottom plank at the keel. Punch holes
in the plank with an awl, not directly in line, but staggered from side
to side along the ribs. This will prevent the possibility of splitting.
Drive in the copper clout nails while the plank is kept in place with a
clamp to facilitate the work. Hold a clinch iron, or any handy piece of
iron, inside and clinch the nails so that the ends are well imbedded
in the rib on the inside. It is a simple matter to fit each plank in
place, because they are merely a close fit at the edge, butted together
without beveling. The number of planks required will depend upon the
width, and while wider strips may be used, planking cut to the width of
3 in. is generally employed. In any case the top plank or sheer strake
should be level with the gunwale from one stem to the other. When the
hull is completely planked, cut off the ends of the planking to the
curve of the stems and gunwales. The backbone and molds may now be
taken out by sawing the backbone in two. Tack a couple of strips across
the gunwales to keep the hull from sagging out of shape, then drive the
nails over the sections the molds occupied, since these forms prevented
doing this work before.
Seat Risings and Seats
The seat risings are simply straight sticks, ¹⁄₂ in. square, and are
fastened on the inside for the seats to rest upon. They are about 4
in. below the gunwale. Oak or ash is the best material, and the length
is 14 ft. To fasten in place, first bore a small hole and then nail
through the planking and ribs, and clinch on the inside of the rising.
[Illustration: FIG. 10
The Seat Frame may be Caned, or a Canvas Seat Tacked On, as Preferred]
The seat frame is fashioned as shown in Fig. 10, and may be caned, or a
canvas seat tacked on, as preferred. Many canoeists prefer to kneel, in
which case a seat bar, about 4 or 5 in. wide, is run athwartships for
the paddler’s back and thighs to rest against while paddling.
The Deck Beams and Decks
The deck beams are merely straight pieces, about 8 in. long, 1¹⁄₈ in.
wide, and ³⁄₈ in. thick. These are notched at the ends as shown in
Fig. 11, so that they will come up and wedge against the sides of the
gunwales about ¹⁄₂ in. Put them in by boring a hole through the gunwale
and fasten with a 1¹⁄₄-in. No. 10 screw at each end. Two are required,
one at each end.
[Illustration: FIG. 11]
[Illustration: FIG. 12
The Shape of the Deck or Breast Hooks and the Beams That Support Them]
The deck, or breast, hooks are made 16 in. long by 8 in. wide and of
the shape shown in Fig. 12. To fasten them in place bore three holes
through the deck into the deck beam and secure them with three 1¹⁄₄-in.
No. 10 screws. Bore three holes along the gunwale on each side and turn
three 1¹⁄₄-in. No. 10 screws into the deck.
A Center Thwart
To strengthen and stiffen the hull a center thwart, or cross bar,
should be run across the canoe amidships. A piece of oak or ash,
³⁄₈ in. thick and tapering from 2 in. in the center to 1 in. at the
ends, should be screwed to the lower side of the gunwale. Although
not exactly essential, it is a good plan to run another thwart across
the canoe just back of the forward seat, and a rear thwart some 3 ft.
forward of the rear seat, or paddling bar. This will make the craft
very stiff when a heavy load is carried, and likewise prevent the
lightly constructed hull from sagging, or “hogging,” when stored for
the winter.
[Illustration: FIG. 13
The Manner of Shaping the Ends of the Canvas to Fit over the Canoe Ends]
Applying the Canvas
The canvas is put on with marine glue, the black kind being the best
for this particular purpose. Before gluing the canvas, lay it smoothly
on the hull and trim so that it will fold nicely at the stems, as
shown in Fig. 13. Melt the glue in a can over a moderately hot fire
and spread it on one side of the canvas with a stiff brush. Of course,
the glue will be too thick to spread evenly, but be sure to apply it
as evenly as possible, and touch every bit of the canvas with a fairly
heavy coating of glue. Lay the glued canvas in place, and iron with
a moderately hot flatiron. This melts the glue, and the canvas will
adhere smoothly to the planking. Finish by tacking the edge of the
canvas along the edge of the gunwales, and fold the canvas as smoothly
as possible at the stem, and tack in place, running the line of tacks
exactly down the center line of the stem.
Fenders or Covering Strips
Fenders of ¹⁄₂-in. round molding may be tacked on to cover the edge of
the canvas, or a strip, 1 in. wide, may be sawed from the same material
as the planking and tacked to cover the edge by using 1¹⁄₄-in. brads
every 2 or 3 in. along the edge.
Stem Bands and Outside Keel
The stem bands may be made from wood if desired and bent to shape, but
the brass oval stem or bang iron, ³⁄₈ in. wide, makes a stronger and
better finish. The wood stem band should be about ³⁄₈ in. square, and
rounded on the outside. Put this on with 1¹⁄₄-in. brads and fasten the
brass band with ³⁄₄-in. screws.
The outside keel may or may not be used, according to preference. It
strengthens the canoe to a certain extent and keeps the bottom from
many a scratch while pulling out. The usual outside keel is about 1
in. wide and ¹⁄₂ in. thick, of oak or ash, and tapered at the stems to
the width of the stem bands, which are screwed on over it. The most
serviceable keel is about 2¹⁄₂ in. wide in the center, and tapers to
fit the bands at either end. When made of ³⁄₄-in. oak, or ash, it makes
a splendid protection for the bottom of the hull, especially when the
craft is used in rocky waters. Unlike the narrow keel, the flat keel
makes the canoe easier to turn with the paddle, but any form of keel
will add several pounds to the weight of the craft and is for this
reason often omitted.
Painting the Canoe
The canvas should be given a coat of shellac before the paint is
applied. This makes it waterproof. Then four coats of paint are
applied to fill the fibers of the canvas. To make a smooth finishing
coat, rub down the second and third coats with fine sandpaper. The
entire woodwork of the canoe should be finished with three coats of
good-quality outside spar varnish.
A slatted grating, made of soft-pine lattice stuff, about 1¹⁄₈ in. wide
and 1¹⁄₄ in. thick, will afford protection to the bottom of the canoe.
For summer use this is desirable, but may be omitted on long trips and
when soft footwear is worn. The grating should not be fastened to the
ribs, but the parallel strips screwed, or nailed, to cross strips,
curved to fit the contour of the canoe’s bottom. The grating should
extend from well under the stern seat up to the stem splice in the bow,
and should be nicely tapered to make a neat appearance. By fastening
two or three little blocks of wood so that they will extend up between
the slats, one may screw small brass buttons into these blocks to
keep the slatted floor in place, thus making it easily removable when
washing out the canoe.
A Ring-and-Egg Trick
This trick consists in borrowing a ring and wrapping it in a
handkerchief from which it is made to disappear, to be found in an egg,
taken from a number in a plate.
Obtain a wedding ring and sew it into one corner of a handkerchief.
After borrowing a ring, pretend to wrap it in the center of the
handkerchief, but instead wrap up the one concealed in the corner,
retaining the borrowed one in the hand. Before beginning the
performance, place in the bottom of an egg cup a small quantity of soft
wax. When getting the cup, slip the borrowed ring into the wax in an
upright position. An egg is then chosen by anyone in the audience. This
is placed in the egg cup, the ring in the bottom being pressed into
the shell. With a button hook break the top of the shell and fish out
the ring. The handkerchief is then taken out to show that the ring has
vanished.
Lock for Gasoline Tank on a Launch
[Illustration: Filler-Pipe Cover Lock to Prevent the Theft of Gasoline
from a Motorboat]
Having trouble by thefts of gasoline from the tank in my launch, I made
the following device to prevent them, which proved very effective. A
strap hinge, about 12 in. long, was procured, and on one wing, near
the outer end, I fastened a staple made of a large nail, and near the
center a large hole was drilled to fit over the pipe, or opening, to
the tank. The other wing of the hinge was bent to the shape shown, and
an oak block was fastened in the bend with wood screws. A hole was
bored in the block to fit over the end of the pipe. A slot was cut in
the same wing at the end to receive the staple. In turning the wing
over to cover the pipe end, the staple was brought into position for
a padlock. After locking the device, most of the screws are covered
so that it is almost impossible to remove them without taking off the
lock.--Contributed by Stephen H. Freeman, Klamath Falls, Oregon.
A Quick-Acting Bench Vise
[Illustration: A Quick-Acting Vise Made of Hard Wood for the Home
Worker’s Bench]
For those who desire a quick-acting vise and cannot afford the price
of a manufactured one, I designed the vise shown in the illustration.
A detail is given of each part, with dimensions, so that it is not
difficult to make it from hard wood. The roll A binds the vise so that
it remains rigid, while the cam in front gives the necessary play, to
release or tighten as preferred. The clamp jaw B is pivoted so that it
swings loose, thus making it fit any surface that may not be parallel
with its opposite side. In releasing the stock, the cam is first
turned, and then the front part of the vise is pulled up to relieve the
roll A. The front jaw can be then moved back and forth to take stock of
any size desired. As soon as the stock is placed, the roll A falls into
place and clamps the jaw arm C.--Contributed by J. C. Hansen, Maywood,
Ill.
* * * * *
¶A practical vacuum will raise water 30 feet.
[Illustration: How To Build A Canoe
By Stillman Taylor