WHAT TREES TO PLANT AND HOW
The following classification will show the value of the more important
trees for different kinds of planting. The species are arranged in the
order of their merit for the particular object under consideration and
the comments accompanying each tree are intended to bring out its
special qualifications for that purpose.
Conditions for tree growth in one part of the country differ from those
of another and these lists, especially applicable to the Eastern States,
may not at all fit some other locality.
TREES BEST FOR THE LAWN
DECIDUOUS
1. American elm (_Ulmus americana_)
One of the noblest of trees. Possesses a majestic, wide-spreading,
umbrella-shaped crown; is easily transplanted, and is suited to a
variety of soils.
2. Pin oak (_Quercus palustris_)
Has a symmetrical crown with low-drooping branches; requires a moist
situation.
3. European linden (_Tilia microphylla_)
Possesses a beautiful shade-bearing crown; grows well in ordinary
soil.
4. Red maple (_Acer rubrum_)
Shows pleasing colors at all seasons; grows best in a fairly rich,
moist soil.
5. Copper beech (_Fagus sylvatica_, _alropurpurea_)
Exceedingly beautiful in form, bark, and foliage and possesses great
longevity and sturdiness. It is difficult to transplant and
therefore only small trees from 6 to 10 feet in height should be
used.
6. Coffee tree (_Gymnocladus dioicus_)
A unique and interesting effect is produced by its coarse branches
and leaves. It is free from insects and disease; requires plenty of
light; will grow in poor soils.
7. European white birch (_Belula alba_)
A graceful tree and very effective as a single specimen on the lawn,
or in a group among evergreens; should be planted in early spring,
and special care taken to protect its tender rootlets.
8. Gingko or Maiden-hair tree (_Gingko biloba_)
Where there is plenty of room for the spread of its odd branches,
the gingko makes a picturesque specimen tree. It is hardy and free
from insect pests and disease.
9. Horsechestnut (_Aesculus hippocastanum_)
Carries beautiful, showy flowers, and has a compact, symmetrical
low-branched crown; is frequently subject to insects and disease.
The red flowering horsechestnut (_A. rubicunda_) is equally
attractive.
[Illustration: FIG. 92.--A Lawn Tree. European Weeping Beech.]
10. Sugar maple (_Acer saccharum_)
Has a symmetrical crown and colors beautifully in the fall; requires
a rich soil and considerable moisture.
11. Soulange's magnolia (_Magnolia soulangeana_)
Extremely hard and flowers in early spring before the leaves appear.
12. Flowering dogwood (_Cornus florida_)
Popular for its beautiful white flowers in the early spring and the
rich coloring of its leaves in the fall; does not grow to large
size. The red-flowering variety of this tree, though sometimes not
quite as hardy, is extremely beautiful.
13. Japanese maple (_Acer polymorphum_)
It has several varieties of different hues and it colors beautifully
in the fall; it does not grow to large size.
CONIFEROUS
14. Oriental spruce (_Picea orientalis_)
Forms a dignified, large tree with a compact crown and low branches;
is hardy.
15. Austrian pine (_Pinus austriaca_)
Is very hardy; possesses a compact crown; will grow in soils of
medium quality.
16. Bhotan pine (_Pinus excelsa_)
Grows luxuriantly; is dignified and beautiful; requires a good soil,
and in youth needs some protection from extreme cold.
17. White pine (_Pinus strobus_)
Branches gracefully and forms a large, dignified tree; will thrive
on a variety of soils.
18. European larch (_Larix europaea_)
Has a beautiful appearance; thrives best in moist situations.
19. Blue spruce (_Picea pungens_)
Extremely hardy; forms a perfect specimen plant for the lawn.
20. Japanese umbrella pine (_Sciadopitys verlicillata_)
Very hardy; retains a compact crown. An excellent specimen plant
when grouped with other evergreens on the lawn. Does not grow to
large size.
21. Mugho pine (_Pinus mughus_)
A low-growing evergreen; hardy; important in group planting.
22. Obtuse leaf Japanese cypress (_Retinospora obtusa_)
Beautiful evergreen of small size; hardy; desirable for group
planting.
23. English yew (_Taxus baccata_)
An excellent evergreen usually of low form; suitable for the lawn,
massed with others or as a specimen plant; will grow in the shade of
other trees. There are various forms of this species of distinctive
value.
TREES BEST FOR THE STREET
1. Oriental sycamore (_Platanus orientalis_)
Very hardy; will adapt itself to city conditions; grows fairly fast
and is highly resistant to insects and disease.
2. Norway maple (_Acer platanoides_)
Very hardy; possesses a straight trunk and symmetrical crown; is
comparatively free from insects and disease and will withstand the
average city conditions.
3. Red oak (_Quercus rubra_)
Fastest growing of the oaks; very durable and highly resistant to
insects and disease; will grow in the average soil of the city
street.
[Illustration: FIG. 93.--Street Trees. Norway Maples.]
4. Gingko (_Gingko biloba_)
Hardy and absolutely free from insects and disease; suited for
narrow streets, and will permit of close planting.
5. European linden (_Tilia microphylla_)
Beautiful shade-bearing crown; is very responsive to good soil and
plenty of moisture.
6. American elm (_Ulmus americana_)
When planted in rows along an avenue, it forms a tall majestic
archway of great beauty. It is best suited for wide streets and
should be planted further apart than the other trees listed above.
Requires a fairly good soil and plenty of moisture, and is therefore
not suited for planting in the heart of a large city.
7. Pin oak (_Quercus palustris_)
This tree exhibits its greatest beauty when its branches are allowed
to droop fairly low. It, moreover, needs plenty of moisture to
thrive and the tree is therefore best suited for streets in suburban
sections, where these conditions can be more readily met.
8. Red maple (_Acer rubrum_)
Beautiful in all seasons of the year; requires a rich soil and
considerable moisture.
TREES BEST FOR WOODLAND
FOR OPEN PLACES
1. Red oak (_Quercus rubra_)
Grows rapidly to large size and produces valuable wood; will grow in
poor soil.
2. White pine (_Pinus strobus_)
Rapid grower; endures but little shade; wood valuable; will do well
on large range of soils.
3. Red pine (_Pinus resinosa_)
Very hardy; fairly rapid growing tree.
4. Tulip tree (_Liriodendron tulipifera_)
Grows rapidly into a stately forest tree with a clear tall trunk;
wood valuable; requires a fairly moist soil. Use a small tree, plant
in the spring, and pay special attention to the protection of the
roots in planting.
5. Black locust (_Robinia pseudacacia_)
Grows rapidly; adapts itself to poor, sandy soils. The wood is
suitable for posts and ties.
6. White ash (_Fraxinus americana_)
Grows rapidly; prefers moist situations. Wood valuable.
7. American elm (_Ulmus americana_)
Grows rapidly to great height; will not endure too much shade; does
best in a deep fertile soil. Wood valuable.
8. European larch (_Larix europaea_)
Grows rapidly; prefers moist situations.
[Illustration: FIG. 94.--Woodland Trees. Red Oaks.]
FOR PLANTING UNDER THE SHADE OF OTHER TREES
9. Beech (_Fagus_)
Will stand heavy shade; holds the soil well along banks and steep
slopes. Both the American and the English species are desirable.
10. Hemlock (_Tsuga canadensis_)
Will stand heavy shade and look effective in winter as well as in
summer.
11. Dogwood (_Cornus florida_)
Will grow under other trees; flowers beautifully in the spring and
colors richly in the fall.
12. Blue beech (_Carpinus caroliniana_)
Native to the woodlands of the Eastern States; looks well in spring
and fall.
TREES BEST FOR SCREENING
1. Hemlock (_Tsuga canadensis_)
Will stand shearing and will screen in winter as well as in summer.
Plant from 2 to 4 feet apart to form a hedge.
2. Osage orange (_Toxylon pomiferum_)
Very hardy. Plant close.
3. English hawthorn (_Crataegus oxyacantha_)
Flowers beautifully and grows in compact masses. Plant close.
4. Lombardy poplar (_Populus nigra var. italica_)
Forms a tall screen and grows under the most unfavorable conditions.
Plant 8 to 12 feet apart.
Quality of trees: Trees grown in a nursery are preferable for
transplanting to trees grown in the forest. Nursery-grown trees
possess a well-developed root system with numerous fibrous rootlets,
a straight stem, a symmetrical crown, and a well-defined leader.
Trees grown in neighboring nurseries are preferable to those grown
at great distances, because they will be better adapted to local
climatic and soil conditions. The short distances over which they
must be transported also will entail less danger to the roots
through drying. For lawn planting, the branches should reach low to
the ground, while for street purposes the branches should start at
about seven feet from the ground. For street planting, it is also
important that the stem should be perfectly straight and about two
inches in diameter. For woodland planting, the form of the tree is
of minor consideration, though it is well to have the leader well
defined here as well as in the other cases. See Fig. 95.
When and how to procure the trees: The trees should be selected in the
nursery personally. Some persons prefer to seal the more valuable
specimens with leaden seals. Fall is the best time to make the
selection, because at that time one can have a wider choice of
material. Selecting thus early will also prevent delay in delivery
at the time when it is desired to plant.
When to plant: The best time to plant trees is early spring, just before
growth begins, and after the frost is out of the ground. From the
latter part of March to the early part of May is generally the
planting period in the Eastern States.
Where one has to plant both coniferous and deciduous trees, it is
best to get the deciduous in first, and then the conifers.
How to plant: The location of the trees with relation to each other
should be carefully considered. On the lawn, they should be
separated far enough to allow for the full spread of the tree. On
streets, trees should be planted thirty to thirty-five feet apart
and in case of the elm, forty to fifty feet. In woodlands, it is
well to plant as close as six feet apart where small seedlings are
used and about twelve feet apart in the case of trees an inch or
more in diameter. An abundance of good soil (one to two cubic yards)
is essential with each tree where the specimens used are an inch or
two in diameter. A rich mellow loam, such as one finds on the
surface of a well-tilled farm, is the ideal soil. Manure should
never be placed in direct contact with the roots or stem of the
tree.
Protection of the roots from drying is the chief precaution to be
observed during the planting process, and for this reason a cloudy
day is preferable to a sunny day for planting. In case of
evergreens, the least exposure of the roots is liable to result
disastrously, even more so than in case of deciduous trees. This is
why evergreens are lifted from the nursery with a ball of soil
around the roots. All bruised roots should be cut off before the
tree is planted, and the crown of the tree of the deciduous species
should be slightly trimmed in order to equalize the loss of roots by
a corresponding decrease in leaf surface.
The tree should be set into the tree hole at the same depth that it
stood in the nursery. Its roots, where there is no ball of soil
around them, should be carefully spread out and good soil should be
worked in carefully with the fingers among the fine rootlets. Every
root fibre is thus brought into close contact with the soil. More
good soil should be added (in layers) and firmly packed about the
roots. The last layer should remain loose so that it may act as a
mulch or as an absorbent of moisture. The tree should then be
thoroughly watered.
[Illustration: FIG. 95.--Specifications for a Street Tree.]
After care: During the first season the tree should be watered and the
soil around its base slightly loosened at least once a week,
especially on hot summer days. Where trees are planted on streets,
near the curb, they should also be fastened to stakes and protected
with a wire guard six feet high. See Fig. 95. Wire netting of
½-inch mesh and 17 gauge is the most desirable material.
[Illustration: FIG. 96.--A Home Nursery. (Austrian pines in front.)]
Suggestions for a home or school nursery: Schools, farms, and private
estates may conveniently start a tree nursery on the premises and
raise their own trees. Two-year seedling trees or four-year
transplants are best suited for this purpose. These may be obtained
from several reliable nurseries in various parts of the country that
make a specialty of raising small trees for such purposes. The cost
of such trees should be from three to fifteen dollars per thousand.
The little trees, which range from one to two feet in height, will
be shipped in bundles. Immediately upon arrival, the bundles should
be untied and the trees immersed in a pail containing water mixed
with soil. The bundles should then be placed in the ground
temporarily, until they can be set out in their proper places. In
this process, the individual bundles should be slanted with their
tops toward the south, and the spot chosen should be cool and shady.
At no time should the roots of these plants be exposed, even for a
moment, to sun and wind, and they should always be kept moist. The
little trees may remain in this trench for two weeks without injury.
They should then be planted out in rows, each row one foot apart for
conifers and two feet for broadleaf trees. The individual trees
should be set ten inches apart in the row. Careful weeding and
watering is the necessary attention later on.