CHAPTER XII.--APPRECIATIONS AND EPITOMES

TAKEN as a whole, the criticisms upon Hearn's work are complimentary. He

has his warm admirers, and some who are not so enthusiastic; but those

who criticize adversely do so with a gentleness,--I may say, almost a

reluctance that is perhaps the reflection of the spirit of his work. And

whatever else these may offer, all agree that his writings have a unique

charm.

Following are a few excerpts which should give an average of opinions:--

"One great secret of his success in interpreting the Japanese mind and

temperament lay in his patience in seeking out and studying minutely the

little things of a people said to be great in such. As Amenomori says of

Hearn's mind, it 'called forth life and poetry out of dust.'" (327.)[20]

[20] The numbers refer to the corresponding items in the

Bibliography.

"As an interpreter of the Japanese heart, mind, hand and soul, Mr. Hearn

has no superior. But he will not convert those who in health of body and

mind love the landmarks of the best faith of the race. It is very hard

to make fog and miasmatic exhalations, even when made partly luminous

with rhetoric, attractive to the intellect that loves headlands and

mountain-tops. The product of despair can never compete in robust minds

with the product of faith." (357.)

"Sympathy and exquisiteness of touch are the characteristics of Mr.

Hearn's genius. He is a chameleon, glowing with the hue of outer objects

or of inward moods, or altogether iridescent. He becomes translucent and

veined like a moth on a twig, or mottled as if with the protective

golden browns of fallen leaves. We may not look for architectonic or

even plastic powers. His is not the mind which constructs of inner

necessity, which weaves plots and schemes, or thinks of its frame as it

paints. He attempts no epic of history. The delver for sociologic or

theologic spoil must seek deeper waters....

"In his later books the all-potent influence of Japanese restraint seems

to have refined and subdued his wonderful style to more perfect

harmonies....

"His chapters are long or short as are his moods. There is little

organic unity in them; no scientific aim or philosophic grasp rounds

them into form. Even his paragraphs have little cohesion. Speaking of

the forming of his sentences, he himself has compared it to the

focussing of an image, each added word being like the turn of a delicate

screw." (306.)

"The secret of the charm that we feel to such a marked degree in Mr.

Lafcadio Hearn's volumes is that, in contrast to other writers, he does

take the Japanese very seriously indeed." (316.)

"To the details of life and thought in Japan Mr. Hearn's soul seems

everywhere and at all times responsive. He catches in his eye and on his

pen minute motes scarcely noticeable by the keen natives themselves."

(367.)

"He has written nothing on Japan equal in length to his tales of West

Indian life. But while we deplore this reserve of a writer who possesses

every quality of style, except humour, we have reason to be grateful for

whatever he gives us." (307.)

"The matchless prose and the sympathy of Mr. Hearn." (324.)

"Mr. Hearn has the sympathetic temperament, the minute mental vision,

the subdued style peculiar to all that is good in Japanese art and

literature, needed for the accomplishment of a labour which to him has

been a labour of love indeed. Here we have no mawkish sentimentality, no

excessive laudation, on the one hand; on the other, no Occidental

harshness, no Occidental ignorance of the sweet mystery of Eastern ways

of life and modes of thought. What this most charming of writers on Far

Eastern subjects has seen all may see, but only those can understand who

are endowed with a like faculty of perception of unobtrusive beauty, and

a like power, it must be added, of patient and prolonged study of common

appearances and everyday events." (295.)

"A man has just died, intelligent and generous, who had succeeded in

reconciling in his heart, the clear, rational ideas of the West together

with the obscure deep sense of Extreme--Asia: Lafcadio Hearn. In the

hospitality of his recipient soul, high European civilization and high

Japanese civilization found a meeting-place; harmonized; completed, one

in the other....

"In English-speaking countries, especially in the United States,

Lafcadio Hearn already enjoys a just reputation. The lovers of the

exotic, esteem him as equal to Kipling or Stevenson. In France, the

_Revue de Paris_ has begun to make him known, by publishing some of his

best articles, elegantly and faithfully translated. His budding fame is

destined to increase, as Europe takes a greater interest in the arts and

the thoughts of the Extreme-Orient. His prose, exact and harmonious,

will be admired as one of the finest since Ruskin wrote: his very

personal style, at the same time subtle and powerful, will be noted: he

will be especially admired for his delicate and profound intelligence of

that Japanese civilization which, to us, remains so mysterious. What

characterizes the talent of Lafcadio Hearn, that which gives it its

precious originality, is the rare mixture of scientific precision and

idealistic enthusiasm: his work might justly be entitled Truth and

Poesy: 'In reading these essays,' says one of our best existing Japanese

scholars, Professor Chamberlain, 'one feels the truth of Richard

Wagner's statement: "_Alles verstaendniss kommt uns nur durch die

Liebe._" (All understanding comes to us only through Love.) If Lafcadio

Hearn understands Japan best, and makes it better understood than any

other writer, it is because he loves it best.'

"Lafcadio Hearn describes with intelligence, with love all aspects of

Japanese life: Nature and inhabitants; landscapes, animals and flowers;

material life and life moral; classic Art and popular literature;

philosophies, religions and superstitions. He awakens in us an exquisite

feeling of old aristocratic and feudal Japan: he explains to us the

prodigious revolution that modern Japan has created in thirty years....

"Hearn has consecrated to the study of Japanese art some of his most

curious psychological analyses.

"Lafcadio Hearn takes a deep interest in the religious life of the

Japanese. He studies with the minutest exactness the ancient customs of

Shintoism, high moral precepts of Buddhism, and also the popular

superstitions that hold on, for instance, to the worship of foxes, and

to the idea of pre-existence." (393.)

"To a certain large class of his adopted countrymen, his hatred of

Christianity, which was pronounced long before he went to Japan, and his

fondness for Oriental cults of all kinds, was recommendation. But it is

still an open question whether he did harm or good to the Japanese by

his advocacy of their superstitions....

"Hearn's books are little known to the multitude. But they are familiar

to an influential class the world over. In him Japan has lost a powerful

and flattering advocate, and the English world one of its masters in

style." (332.)

"Mr. Hearn was not a philosopher or a judicial student of life. He was a

gifted, born impressionist, with a style resembling that of the French

Pierre Loti. His stories and descriptions are delicate or gorgeous word

pictures of the subtler and more elusive qualities of Oriental life."

(293.)

"His art is the power of suggestion through perfect restraint.... He

stands and proclaims his mysteries at the meeting of three ways. To the

religious instinct of India,--Buddhism in particular,--which history has

engrafted on the aesthetic sense of Japan, Mr. Hearn brings the

interpreting spirit of Occidental science; and these three traditions

are fused by the peculiar sympathies of his mind into one rich and novel

compound.... In these essays and tales, whose substance is so strangely

mingled together out of the austere dreams of India and the subtle

beauty of Japan and the relentless science of Europe, I read vaguely of

many things which hitherto were quite dark." (308.)

"He brings to the study of all aspects of Japanese life, intelligence,

and love; he also sets sail in his descriptions and analyses towards a

general theory on life; he is a Japanizing psychologist: he is also a

philosopher....

"At all events, Lafcadio Hearn has the merit of recalling powerfully to

the Europeans of Europe the importance, often misunderstood, of Eastern

civilization. No one better than this Japanizing enthusiast to make us

feel what there is of narrowness in our habitual conception of the

world, in our individualistic literature, misunderstanding too much the

influence of the Past in our anthropocentric art, neglecting Nature too

often, penetrated too 'singly' in our classic philosophy with

Greco-Latin and Christian influences. 'Till now,' says Lafcadio Hearn

very forcibly, 'having lived only in one hemisphere, we have thought but

half thoughts.' We should enlarge our hearts and our minds by taking

into our circle of culture, all the art and all the thought of the

extreme East.

"From the philosophical view-point, Lafcadio Hearn has the merit of

calling attention to the high value of Shintoism, and above all of

Buddhism. His work deserves to exercise an influence on the religious

ideas of the West. If religion can no longer occupy any place in the

intellectual life of humanity, more and more invaded by science, she can

subsist a long time yet, perhaps always, in her sentimental life."

(392.)

"For that role [as interpreter of Japan] he was eminently unfitted both

by temperament and training. Indeed he was not slow to recognize his

lack of the judicial faculty, and on one occasion acknowledged that he

is a 'creature of extremes.' ... But Hearn often succeeds in reaching

the heart of things by his faculty of sympathy, in virtue of which alone

his books deserve perusal; when he fails it is because of a lack of the

unimpassioned judicial faculty, a tendency to subordinate reason to

feeling, an inclination to place sympathy in the position of judge

rather than guide." (359.)

"Lafcadio Hearn not only buried himself in the Japanese world, but gave

his ashes to the soil so often devastated by earthquake, typhoon, tidal

wave and famine, but ever fertile in blooms of fancy which lies under

the River of Heaven. The air of Nippon, poor in ozone, is overpopulated

by goblins. No writer has ever excelled this child of Greece and Ireland

in interpreting the weird fancies of peasant and poet in the land of

bamboo and cherry flowers.... Hearn's life seemed crushed under 'the

horror of infinite Possibility.' Hence perhaps the weird fascination of

his work and style." (348.)

EPITOMES

AVATAR (281).--It was during the Cincinnati period that Hearn made

this--his first translation from the French. Writing of it in 1886, he

says:--

I have a project on foot--to issue a series of translations of

archaeological and artistic French romance--Flaubert's "Tentation

de Saint-Antoine"; De Nerval's "Voyage en Orient"; Gautier's

"Avatar"; Loti's most extraordinary African and Polynesian

novels; and Beaudelaire's "Petits Poemes en Prose."

But three years later, he writes:--

The work of Gautier cited by you--"Avatar"--was my first

translation from the French. I never could find a publisher for

it, however, and threw the MS. away at last in disgust. It is

certainly a wonderful story; but the self-styled Anglo-Saxon has

so much--prudery that even this innocent phantasy seems to shock

his sense of the "proper."

LA TENTATION DE SAINT-ANTOINE (282) was probably translated at about the

same time. Hearn failed to find a publisher who would take it, but the

manuscript is still in my possession. Hearn's own complete _scenario_,

together with a description of the manuscript, is given on another page.

I quote from Hearn about this work:--

The original is certainly one of the most exotically strange

pieces of writing in any language, and weird beyond description.

Of his own translation, he writes:--

The work is audacious in parts; but I think nothing ought to be

suppressed. That serpent-scene, the crucified lions, the

breaking of the chair of gold, the hideous battles about

Carthage,--these pages contain pictures that ought not to remain

entombed in a foreign museum.

The winter of 1877, the year Hearn arrived in New Orleans, he

corresponded with the Cincinnati _Commercial_ under the name of "Ozias

Midwinter" (219). Excerpts from this series of letters are given in the

chapter, "The New Orleans Period."

ONE OF CLEOPATRA'S NIGHTS (20) was the first book to be published. The

translations were made during the latter part of the Cincinnati period,

but the volume did not appear until some years later, while Hearn was in

New Orleans. It was prepared at the hour when his craving for the exotic

and weird was at its height. From the opening word to the last the six

stories are one long Dionysian revel of an Arabian Night's Dream, and

within their pages it is not difficult to feel that "one is truly dead

only when one is no longer loved." What an exotic group of names it

is:--Cleopatra, "she that made the whole world's bale and bliss;"

Clarimonde,

"Who was famed in her lifetime

As the fairest of women;"

Arria Marcella; the Princess Hermonthis; Omphale; and the one "fairer

than all daughters of men, lovelier than all fantasies realized in

stone"--Nyssia. It is a tapestry woven of the lights and jewels and

passion of an antique world. "You will find in Gautier," Hearn writes,

"a perfection of melody, a warmth of word colouring, a voluptuous

delicacy;" "Gautier could create mosaics of word jewellery without

equals." Hearn's "pet stories" are "Clarimonde" and "Arria Marcella." Is

it strange that he should delight in these beautiful vampires?

In this work, and in the tales to follow, we already perceive that

colour is to become a sort of a fetich to be worshipped. Here in the

studio of another artist, he serves his first apprenticeship, and from

the highly toned palette of Gautier he learns how to mix and lay on the

colours that he himself is later to use so richly.

In speaking of this book, a critic says:--

"His learning and his inspiration were wholly French in these

productions, as also in what was his first and in some ways his best

book, "One of Cleopatra's Nights," and other tales translated from

Theophile Gautier. While Hearn was faithful to his original, he also

improved upon it, and many a scholar who knows both French and English

has confessed under the rose that Gautier is outdone." (332.)

Of his work, Hearn writes:--

You asked me about Gautier. I have read and possess nearly

all his works; and before I was really mature enough for

such an undertaking I translated his six most remarkable

short stories. The work contains, I regret to say, several

shocking errors, and the publishers refused me the right to

correct the plates. The book remains one of the sins of my

literary youth, but I am sure my judgment of the value of

the stories was correct.

While preparing his next book, Hearn published in the _Century_, "The

Scenes of Cable's Romances" (220). In this article he vivifies the

quarters and dwellings that Mr. Cable in his delightful stories had

already made famous.

THE FIRST MUEZZIN, BILAL (405), was written in the fall of 1883, during

the New Orleans period. It is a beautiful, serious piece of work, and is

written with the fine, sonorous quality that such a theme should

inspire. That it was a labour of love is shown in Hearn's letters

written at its inception to Mr. Krehbiel, who was an invaluable aid to

him in compiling its musical part. "Bilal" was probably published

finally in the _Times-Democrat_, after being refused by _Harper's_, the

_Century_, and some others.

The traveller slumbering for the first time within the walls of

an Oriental city, and in the vicinity of a minaret, can scarcely

fail to be impressed by the solemn beauty of the Mohammedan Call

to Prayer. If he have worthily prepared himself, by the study of

book and of languages, for the experiences of Eastern travel, he

will probably have learned by heart the words of the sacred

summons, and will recognize their syllables in the sonorous

chant of the Muezzin,--while the rose-coloured light of an

Egyptian or Syrian dawn expands its flush to the stars. Four

times more will he hear that voice ere morning again illuminates

the east:--under the white blaze of noon; at the sunset hour,

when the west is fervid with incandescent gold and vermilion; in

the long after-glow of orange and emerald fires; and, still

later, when a million astral lamps have been lighted in the vast

and violet dome of God's everlasting mosque.

In four parts Hearn tells the history of Bilal, who

was an African black, an Abyssinian,--famed for his fortitude as

a confessor, for his zeal in the faith of the Prophet, and for

the marvellous melody of his voice, whose echoes have been

caught up and prolonged and multiplied by all the muezzins of

Islam, through the passing of more than twelve hundred years....

And the words chanted by all the muezzins of the Moslem

world,--whether from the barbaric brick structures which rise

above "The Tunis of the Desert," or from the fairy minarets of

the exquisite mosque at Agra,--are the words first sung by the

mighty voice of Bilal.

Bilal was the son of an Abyssinian slave-girl, and himself began life as

a slave. The first preaching of Mahomet had deep effect upon the slaves

of Mecca, and Bilal was perhaps the earliest of these to become a

convert. Even under the tortures of the persecutors, he could not be

made to apostatize--always he would answer, "_Ahad! Ahad_:" "_One_, one

only God!" Abu Bekr, the bosom friend of the great Prophet, observing

Bilal, bought him, and set him free. Then Bilal became the devoted

servant of Mahomet; and, in fulfilment of a dream, he was made the First

Muezzin to sound the _Adzan_, the Call to Prayer.

God is Great!

God is Great!

I bear witness there is no other God but God!

I bear witness that Mahomet is the Prophet of God!

Come unto Prayer!

Come unto Salvation!

God is Great!

There is no other God but God!

* * * * *

After the death of Mahomet, Bilal ceased to sing the

_Adzan_:--the voice that had summoned the Prophet of God to

the house of prayer ought not, he piously fancied, to be

heard after the departure of his master. Yet, in his Syrian

home, how often must he have prayed to chant the words as he

first chanted them from the starlit housetop in the Holy

City, and how often compelled to deny the petitions of those

who revered him as a saint and would perhaps have sacrificed

all their goods to have heard him but once lift up his voice

in musical prayer!... But when Omar visited Damascus the

chiefs of the people besought him that, as Commander of the

Faithful, he should ask Bilal to sing the Call in honour of

the event; and the old man consented to do so for the last

time....

To hear Bilal must have seemed to many as sacred a privilege

as to have heard the voice of the Prophet himself,--the

proudest episode of a lifetime,--the one incident of all

others to be related in long afteryears to children and to

grandchildren. Some there may have been whom the occasion

inspired with feelings no loftier than curiosity; but the

large majority of those who thronged to listen in silent

expectancy for the _Allah-hu-akbar!_ must have experienced

emotions too deep to be ever forgotten. The records of the

event, at least, fully justify this belief;--for when, after

moments of tremulous waiting, the grand voice of the aged

African rolled out amid the hush,--with the old beloved

words,--the old familiar tones, still deep and clean,--Omar

and all those about him wept aloud, and tears streamed down

every warrior-face, and the last long notes of the chant

were lost in a tempest of sobbing.

STRAY LEAVES FROM STRANGE LITERATURE[21] (I) is the second book. It was

written also during the period in New Orleans, many of the stories first

appearing in the _Times-Democrat_, and the little volume is dedicated to

its editor--Mr. Page M. Baker.

[21] Copyright, 1884, by James R. Osgood and Company.

These tales, as Hearn tells us in his Preface, are "reconstructions of

what impressed me as most fantastically beautiful in the most exotic

literature which I was able to obtain." In a letter he writes, "The

language of 'Stray Leaves' is all my own, with the exception of the

Italic texts and a few pages translated from the 'Kalewala.'"

The tapestry he is weaving is of the same crimson threads as that of the

earlier tales, but the colours of sunset are softening to the gentler

hues of the after-glow, and interwoven sometimes are strands of pure

moonlight.

We read of the great Book of Thoth which contains a formula whosoever

could recite might never know death, and we learn how the cunning

magician Noferkephtah obtained the book, which caused the wrath of the

gods to fall upon him; later, how Satni, of whom "there was not in all

Egypt so wise a scribe," yearned for the book, and took it from the tomb

of Noferkephtah, and of the magic wrought and the penance done.

There is the exquisite tale of the Fountain Maiden, whom Aki caught in

his own fish-net, and whom he grew to love more than his own life.

The story lingers of the sea-bird which fell into the hunter's hand, and

when he looked more closely he found it had become transformed into a

beautiful girl, "slender ... like a young moon," and pity rose in the

hunter's heart, and then love. One day, when their children had become

strong and swift, and while they were all hunting together, the

Bird-Wife called to the little ones to gather feathers: then she covered

their arms and her own shoulders with the feathers, and far away they

flew.

Passing onward, we read of Tilottama, and that by reason of her beauty

"the great gods once became multiple-faced and myriad-eyed"; and that

this beauty brought punishment to the wicked Sounda and Oupasounda.

There is Bakawali, for "whose history of love, human and superhuman, a

parallel may not be found." For her great love of the mortal youth

Taj-ulmuluk each night she sacrificed herself to the fiercest

purification of fire. And then to appease the gods, she suffered herself

to be turned for ten long years into marble from her waist to her feet.

Her lover ministered to her and watched by her side through the terrible

years until she was reincarnated for him.

Then we see the statue of Natalika, who avenged the death of her people.

And who shall answer the riddle of the Corpse Demon? And which one may

not profit by the wisdom of the youth who knew nothing of science?

Perhaps our hearts stir with a soft regret for the atonement of Pundari.

And so we wander through a maze of colour and of magic, tarrying to

listen to the voice of Kalewala, for--

As he sang the fair Sun paused in her course to hear him; the

golden Moon stopped in her path to listen; the awful billows of

the sea stood still; the icy rivers that devour the pines, that

swallow up the firs, ceased to rage; the mighty cataracts hung

motionless above their abysses; the waves of Juortana lifted

high their heads to hear.

"Slender she was as the tulip upon its stalk, and in walking her feet

seemed kisses pressed upon the ground. But hadst thou beheld her face

unveiled, and the whiteness of her teeth between her brown lips when she

smiled!" Alas, she was a good Christian maiden and he a good Mussulman,

and so in this Legend of Love each loyal heart dies pronouncing the

faith of the other, lest they should not meet at the Day of Judgment.

As we draw near the last figures on the tapestry, we find those two

tender pictures of which Hearn himself speaks: "Your preference for

Boutimar pleases me: Boutimar was my pet. There is a little Jewish

legend in the collection--Esther--somewhat resembling it in pathos."

These stories afford a glimpse into that gentle heart, which was later

to respond to the exquisite faiths and loyalties of the Japanese.

Now the Creator sent unto Solomon a cup which contained some of the

waters of youth and of life without end. And Solomon was asked: "Wilt

thou drink hereof and live divinely immortal through ages everlasting,

or wilt thou rather remain within the prison of humanity?" And Solomon

dreamed upon these words; and he assembled in council a representative

of all those over whom he held dominion. Then Solomon asked Boutimar,

the wild dove, most loving of all living creatures, whether he should

drink of the magic waters, and thus learn the bliss of earthly

immortality. When Boutimar, the wild dove, learned that the cup held

only enough water for one person, he made answer in the language of

birds:--

"O prophet of God! how couldst thou desire to be living alone,

when each of thy friends and of thy counsellors and of thy

children and of thy servants and of all who loved thee were

counted with the dead? For all of these must surely drink the

bitter waters of death, though thou shouldst drink the Water of

Life. Wherefore desire everlasting youth, when the face of the

world itself shall be wrinkled with age, and the eyes of the

stars shall be closed by the black fingers of Azrael? When the

love thou hast sung of shall have passed away like a smoke of

frankincense, when the dust of the heart that beat against thine

own shall have long been scattered by the four winds of heaven,

when the eyes that looked for thy coming shall have become a

memory, when the voices grateful to thine ear shall have been

eternally stilled, when thy life shall be one oasis in a

universal waste of death, and thine eternal existence but a

recognition of eternal absence,--wilt thou indeed care to live,

though the wild dove perish when its mate cometh not?"

And Solomon, without reply, silently put out his arm and gave

back the cup.... But upon the prophet-king's rich beard,

besprinkled with powder of gold, there appeared another glitter

as of clear dew,--the diamond dew of the heart, which is tears.

Esther, whose comeliness surpassed even that of Sarah, and her rich

husband had lived together ten years, but there was no happiness in the

soul of the good man, for "the sound of a child's voice had never made

sunshine within his heart." So Esther and her husband sorrowed bitterly.

And they brought the burden of their grief to Rabbi Simon ben Yochai,

and when they had told him, a silence as of the Shechinah came upon the

three, only the eyes of the Rabbi seemed to smile. And it was agreed

that the twain should part; thus the Israelite could be known as a

father in Israel.

A feast then was laid at the house, and before all the guests her

husband spoke lovingly to Esther, and in token of his affection and his

grief bade her to take from the house "whatever thou desirest, whether

it be gold or jewels beyond price." And the wine was passed, and the

people made merry, and finally a deep sleep fell upon them all. Then

Esther gave command that her husband sleeping should be carried to her

father's house. In the morning her husband awakened, and confused he

cried out, "Woman, what hast thou done?"

Then, sweeter than the voice of doves among the fig-trees, came

the voice of Esther: "Didst thou not bid me, husband, that I

should choose and take away from thy house whatsoever I most

desired? And I have chosen thee, and have brought thee hither,

to my father's home ... loving thee more than all else in the

world. Wilt thou drive me from thee now?" And he could not see

her face for tears of love; yet he heard her voice speaking

on,--speaking the golden words of Ruth, which are so old yet so

young to the hearts of all that love: "Whithersoever thou shalt

go, I will also go; and whithersoever thou shalt dwell, I also

will dwell. And the Angel of Death only may part us; for thou

art all in all to me." ...

And in the golden sunlight at the doorway suddenly stood, like a

statue of Babylonian silver, the grand grey figure of Rabbi

Simon ben Yochai, lifting his hands in benediction.

"_Schmah Israel!_--the Lord our God, who is One, bless ye with

everlasting benediction! May your hearts be welded by love, as

gold with gold by the cunning of goldsmiths! May the Lord, who

coupleth and setteth thee single in families, watch over ye! The

Lord make this valiant woman even as Rachel and as Lia, who

built up the house of Israel! And ye shall behold your children

and your children's children in the House of the Lord!"

Even so the Lord blessed them; and Esther became as the fruitful

vine, and they saw their children's children in Israel.

Forasmuch as it is written: "He will regard the prayer of the

destitute."

GOMBO ZHEBES[22](2) followed in the New Orleans period. It is a

compilation of 352 proverbs selected from six dialects. According to the

indexes, there are 6 in the Creole of French Guyana; 28 in the Creole of

Hayti; 51 in the Creole of New Orleans, Louisiana; 101 in the Creole of

Martinique; 110 in the Creole of Mauritius; 52 in the Creole of

Trinidad. Most of the proverbs are similar to our own, but are

translated into the simple homely language of the Creole, reflecting its

mode of thought. The same proverb often appears in the different

dialects. Although a proverb is of European origin, "the character of

Creole folk-lore is very different from European folk-lore in the matter

of superstition." Many proverbs are direct from the African. Those in

the Creole of Hayti are generally rough and coarse. The most popular

subjects are, pot or kettle, rain, serpent or snake, of which there are

six of each; devil, eggs, belly, horse, mothers, tail, of these there

are seven of each; chicken, children, ox have eight of each; cat has

nine; goat has eleven; talking has sixteen; monkey has seventeen; fine

clothes has only four, idleness has five, and marriage has six.

[22] Copyright, 1885, by Will H. Coleman.

Hearn speaks of this book as a Dictionary of Proverbs. He made an

extensive study of the subject and in later researches found it most

helpful. "I have," he says, "quite a Creole library embracing the Creole

dialects of both hemispheres."

Following are a selection of the proverbs chosen from the different

dialects:--

No. 23. _Bel tignon pas fait bel negresse. (Le beau tignon ne

fait pas la belle negresse.)_ "It isn't the fine head-dress that

makes the fine negress." (_Louisiana._)

_Tignon_ or _tiyon_, the true Creole word, "is the famously

picturesque handkerchief which in old days all slave-women

twisted about their heads."

No. 44. _Ca qui boude manze boudin. (Celui qui boude mange du

boudin.)_ "He who sulks eats his own belly." That is to say,

spites himself. The pun is untranslatable. (_Mauritius_.)

_Boudin_ in French signifies a pudding, in Creole it also

signifies the belly. Thus there is a double pun in the patois.

No. 256. _Quand diabe alle lamesse li caciette so laquee. (Quand

le diable va a la messe, il cache sa queue.)_ "When the Devil

goes to mass he hides his tail." (_Mauritius._)

No. 352. _Zozo paillenqui crie la-haut, coudevent vini. (Le

paille-en-cul crie la-haut, le coup de vent vient.)_ "When the

tropic-bird screams overhead, a storm-wind is coming."

(_Mauritius._)

No. 267. _Quand milatt tini yon vie chouvral yo dit negress pas

manman yo. (Quand les mulatres ont un vieux cheval ils disent

que les negresses ne sont pas leur meres.)_ "As soon as a

mulatto is able to own an old horse, he will tell you that his

mother wasn't a nigger." (_Martinique._)

No. 324. _Toutt milett ni grand zaureilles. (Tout les mulets ont

des grandes oreilles.)_ "All mules have big ears." Equivalent to

our proverb: "Birds of a feather flock together."

(_Martinique._)

No. 291. _Si coulev oule viv, li pas pronminee grand-chemin. (Si

la couleuvre veut vivre, elle ne se promene pas dans le grand

chemin.)_ "If the snake cares to live, it doesn't journey upon

the high-road." (_Guyana._)

No. 292. _Si couleve pas te fonte, femmes se pouend li fair

ribans jipes. (Si la couleuvre n'etait pas effrontee les femmes

la prendraient pour en faire des rubans de jupes.)_ "If the

snake wasn't spunky, women would use it for petticoat strings."

(_Trinidad._)

No. 100. _Complot plis fort passe ouanga.[23] (Le complot est

plus fort que l'ouanga.)_ "Conspiracy is stronger than

witchcraft." (_Hayti._)

[23] _Di moin si to gagnin homme!

Mo va fe ouanga pouli;

Mo fe li tourne fantome

Si to vle mo to mari...._

"Tell me if thou hast a man (a lover) I will make a

_ouanga_ for him--I will change him into a ghost if thou

wilt have me for thy husband."

This word, of African origin, is applied to all things

connected with the Voudooism of the negroes.

In the song, "_Dipi mo voue, toue Adele_," from which the

above lines are taken, the wooer threatens to get rid of a

rival by _ouanga_--to "turn him into a ghost." The victims

of Voudooism are said to have gradually withered away,

probably through the influence of secret poison. The word

_grigri_, also of African origin, simply refers to a

charm, which may be used for an innocent or innocuous

purpose. Thus, in a Louisiana Creole song, we find a

quadroon mother promising her daughter a charm to prevent

the white lover from forsaking her:

"_Pou tchombe li na fe grigri._" "We shall make a _grigri_

to keep him."

Simultaneously with the publication of "Gombo Zhebes," Hearn contributed

a series of articles[24] to _Harper's Weekly._ (221-227, 230, 232.)

These papers, which are commonplace newspaper work, tell of New Orleans,

its Expositions, its Superstitions, Voudooism, and the Creole Patois. He

feels that the Creole tongue must go, but while there is still time, he

hopes that some one will rescue its dying legends and curious lyrics.

[24] Copyright, 1884, 1885, 1886, by Harper and Brothers.

The unedited Creole literature comprises songs, satires in

rhymes, proverbs, fairy-tales--almost everything commonly

included under the term folk-lore. The lyrical portion of

it is opulent in oddities, in melancholy beauties.

There are few of the younger generation of Creoles who do not converse

in the French and English languages. Creole is the speech of motherhood,

and "there is a strange naive sorrow in their burdens as of children

sobbing for lonesomeness in the night."

There is an interesting account of Jean Montanet, "Voudoo John"--The

Last of the Voudoos. He was said to be a son of a prince of Senegal.

From a ship's cook he rose to own large estates. While he was a

cotton-roller, it was noticed that he seemed to have some peculiar

occult influence over the negroes under him. Voudoo John had the

mysterious _obi_ power. Soon realizing his power, he commenced to tell

fortunes, and thousands and thousands of people, white and black,

flocked to him. Then he bought a house and began as well to practise

Creole medicine. He could give receipts for everything and anything, and

many a veiled lady stopped at his door.

Once Jean received a fee of $50 for a potion. "It was

water," he said to a Creole confidant, "with some common

herbs boiled in it. I hurt nobody, but if folks want to

give me fifty dollars, I take the fifty dollars every

time!"

It is said that Jean became worth at least $50,000. He had his horses

and carriages, his fifteen wives, whom he considered, one and all,

legitimate spouses. He was charitable too. But he did not know what to

do with his money. Gradually, in one way or another, it was stolen from

him, until at the last, with nothing left but his African shells, his

elephant's tusk, and the sewing-machine upon which he used to tell

fortunes even in his days of riches, he had to seek hospitality of his

children.

Hearn devotes several columns to Voudooism, telling of its witchcrafts

and charms and fetiches which work for evil, and also of the

superstitions regarding the common occurrences of daily life.

In a paper on Mexican feather-work at the New Orleans Exposition, there

is this paragraph which presages his later descriptions:--

As I write, the memory of a Mexican landscape scene in

feather-work is especially vivid--a vast expanse of opulent

wheat-fields, whereof the blonde immensity brightens or

deepens its tint with the tremor of summer winds; distance

makes violet the hills; a steel-bright river serpentines

through the plain, reflecting the feminine grace of palms

tossing their plumes against an azure sky. I remember also

a vision of marshes--infinite stretches of reed-grown ooze,

shuddering in gusts of sea-wind, and paling away into

bluish vagueness as through a miasmatic haze.

In conjunction with these articles, Hearn published in _Harper's Bazaar_

(228-229) two papers on the Curiosities to be found at the New Orleans

Exposition.

SOME CHINESE GHOSTS[25] (3) was the next book of the New Orleans period.

The first publisher to whom it was submitted did not accept it, but

Roberts Brothers finally brought it out. "There are only six little

stories," writes Hearn, "but each of them cost months of hard work and

study, and represents a much higher attempt than anything in the 'Stray

Leaves.'" The book is dedicated to his friend Mr. Krehbiel, and the

Dedication, which is given in the Bibliography, is as unique as the

tales themselves.

[25] Copyright, 1887, by Roberts Brothers.

In the Preface Hearn says that while preparing these legends he sought

for "weird beauty." The era of fierce passions and horror is waning, and

in these six perfect tales there is a new-found restraint, a firmer

handling of the brush in more normal colours.

One of the earliest reviews of his work remarks:--

"In his treatment of the legend lore of the Celestial Empire, Mr. Hearn

has, if possible, been even more delicate and charming than in the

stories which go to make the previous volume, so much so, indeed, that

one is persuaded to full belief in the beauty and witchery of the

almond-eyed heroines of his pages." (322.)

The opening story is of the beautiful Ko-Ngai, daughter of Kouan-Yu,

whose divine loyalty to her father never faltered even at a hideous

death. He was a great bellmaker, and the Mandarin ordered that he should

make a bell of such size that it would be heard for one hundred _li_,

and further that the bell "should be strengthened with brass, and

deepened with gold, and sweetened with silver." But the metals refused

to mingle. Again the bell was cast, but the result was even worse, and

the Son of Heaven was very angry; and this word was sent to Kouan-Yu:--

"If thou fail a third time in fulfilling our command, thy head

shall be severed from thy neck."

When the lovely Ko-Ngai heard this, she sold her jewels, and paid a

great price to an astrologer, and it was told to her:--

Gold and brass will never meet in wedlock, silver and iron never

will embrace, until the flesh of a maiden be melted in the

crucible; until the blood of a virgin be mingled with the metals

in their fusion.

Ko-Ngai told no one what she had heard. The awful hour for the heroic

effort of the final casting arrived.

All the workmen wrought their tasks in silence; there was no

sound heard but the muttering of the fires. And the muttering

deepened into a roar of typhoons approaching, and the blood-red

lake of metal slowly brightened like the vermilion of a sunrise,

and the vermilion was transmuted into a radiant glow of gold,

and the gold whitened blindingly, like the silver face of a full

moon. Then the workers ceased to feed the raving flame, and all

fixed their eyes upon the eyes of Kouan-Yu; and Kouan-Yu

prepared to give the signal to cast.

But ere ever he lifted his finger, a cry caused him to turn his

head; and all heard the voice of Ko-Ngai sounding sharply sweet

as a bird's song above the great thunder of the fires,--"For thy

sake, O my Father!" And even as she cried, she leaped into the

white flood of metal; and the lava of the furnace roared to

receive her, and spattered monstrous flakes of flame to the

roof, and burst over the verge of the earthen crater, and cast

up a whirling fountain of many-coloured fires, and subsided

quakingly, with lightnings and with thunders and with mutterings.

Of the lovely Ko-Ngai no trace remained save a little shoe, which was

left in the hand of the faithful serving-woman who had striven to catch

her as she leaped into the flame.

And ever does the bell, whose tones are deeper and mellower and mightier

than the tones of any other bell, utter the name of Ko-Ngai; and ever

between the mighty strokes there is a low moaning heard, a sobbing of

"_Hiai!_" and that they say is Ko-Ngai crying for her little shoe.

The next tale tells of Ming-Y and how it was that he did not heed the

counsel of the words of Lao-Tseu, and so it befell that he was loved by

the beautiful Sie-Thao, whose tomb had many years ago crumbled to ruins.

The Legend of Tchi-Niu is the queen flower of the nosegay of six. Tong's

father died, and as they were very poor, the only way that Tong could

obtain money to pay for the funeral expenses was to sell himself as a

slave. The years passed, and he worked without rest or pay, but never a

complaint did he utter. At length the fever of the ricefields seized

him, and he was left alone in his sickness, for there was no one to wait

on him. One noon he dreamed that a beautiful woman bent over him and

touched his forehead with her hand. And Tong opened his eyes, and he saw

the lovely person of whom he had dreamed. "I have come to restore thy

strength and to be thy wife. Arise and worship with me." And reading his

thoughts she said, "I will provide."

"And together they worshipped Heaven and Earth. Thus she became his

wife."

But all that Tong knew of his wife was that her name was Tchi. And the

fame of the weaving of Tchi spread far, and people came to see her

beautiful work. One morning Tchi gave to her husband a document. It was

his freedom that she had bought.

Later the silk-loom remained untouched, for Tchi gave birth to a son.

And the boy was not less wonderful than his mother.

Now it came to the Period of the Eleventh Moon. Suddenly one night, Tchi

led Tong to the cradle where their son slumbered, and as she did so a

great fear and awe came over Tong, and the sweet tender voice breathed

to him:--

"Lo! my beloved, the moment has come in which I must forsake

thee; for I was never of mortal born, and the Invisible may

incarnate themselves for a time only. Yet I leave with thee the

pledge of our love,--this fair son, who shall ever be to thee as

faithful and as fond as thou thyself hast been. Know, my

beloved, that I was sent to thee even by the Master of Heaven,

in reward of thy filial piety, and that I must now return to the

glory of His house: I AM THE GODDESS TCHI-NIU."

Even as she ceased to speak, the great glow faded, and Tong,

reopening his eyes, knew that she had passed away for

ever,--mysteriously as pass the winds of heaven, irrevocably as

the light of a flame blown out. Yet all the doors were barred,

all the windows unopened. Still the child slept, smiling in his

sleep. Outside, the darkness was breaking; the sky was

brightening swiftly; the night was past. With splendid majesty

the East threw open high gates of gold for the coming of the

sun; and, illuminated by the glory of his coming, the vapours of

morning wrought themselves into marvellous shapes of shifting

colour,--into forms weirdly beautiful as the silken dreams woven

in the loom of Tchi-Niu.

Another tale is that of Mara, who tempted in vain, for the Indian

pilgrim conquered.

And still, as a mist of incense, as a smoke of universal

sacrifice, perpetually ascends to heaven from all the lands of

earth the pleasant vapour TE, created for the refreshment of

mankind by the power of a holy vow, the virtue of a pious

atonement.

Like unto the Tale of the Great Bell, Pu, convinced that a soul cannot

be divided,

entered the flame, and yielded up his ghost in the embrace of

the Spirit of the Furnace, giving his life for the life of his

work,--his soul for the soul of his Vase.

And when the workmen came upon the tenth morning to take forth

the porcelain marvel, even the bones of Pu had ceased to be; but

lo! the Vase lived as they looked upon it: seeming to be flesh

moved by the utterance of a Word, creeping to the titillation of

a Thought. And whenever tapped by the finger, it uttered a voice

and a name,--the voice of its maker, the name of its creator: PU.

This same year, Hearn contributed to _Harpers Bazaar_ the valiant legend

of "Rabyah's Last Ride"(234)--Rabyah upon whom no woman had ever called

in vain, and who defended his women even after he was dead. This tale

was copied in the _Times-Democrat_.

CHITA[26] (4), although published after Hearn left New Orleans, properly

belongs to that period. It first appeared in much shorter form in the

_Times-Democrat_ under the title of "Torn Letters." This version met

with many warm friends, and the author was urged to enlarge it. He did

so, and Harpers accepted the story, publishing it first as a serial in

their magazine. With this book came Hearn's first recognition, and

because of its success, he was given a commission by Harpers for further

studies in the tropics, which eventuated in the volume, "Two Years in

the French West Indies."

[26] Copyright, 1889, by Harper and Brothers.

"Chita" is the first glimpse of what Mr. Hearn could write from out

himself; for whereas, as always, the plot must be given to him, the

thread here is so frail that what we admire and remember is the fabric

itself which only Hearn could have woven. In "Chita" he recreates

elemental nature. In "Karma" he becomes the conscience of a human being.

Then, for the first time he realizes the spiritual forces which are

stronger than life or death, and without which no beauty exists.

A criticism of "Chita" at the time of its publication says:--

"By right of this single but profoundly remarkable book, Mr. Hearn may

lay good claim to the title of the American Victor Hugo ... so living a

book has scarcely been given to our generation." (342.)

Concerning the story, Hearn himself writes as follows:--

"Chita" was founded on the fact of a child saved from the Lost

Island disaster by some Louisiana fishing-folk, and brought up

by them. Years after a Creole hunter recognized her, and

reported her whereabouts to relatives. These, who were rich,

determined to bring her up as young ladies are brought up in the

South, and had her sent to a convent. But she had lived the free

healthy life of the coast, and could not bear the convent; she

ran away from it, married a fisherman, and lives somewhere down

there now,--the mother of multitudinous children.

This slight structure of plot gave Hearn the opportunity to paint a

marvellous picture. Hundreds of quotations could be given. He is

delighted with the rich glory of the tropics, and by his power of word

imagery he so reproduces it that with him we too can see and feel it. In

this glowing Nature the poisoned beauty of the Orient is forgotten. Take

this description:--

The charm of a single summer day on these island shores is

something impossible to express, never to be forgotten. Rarely,

in the paler zones, do earth and heaven take such luminosity:

those will best understand me who have seen the splendour of a

West Indian sky. And yet there is a tenderness of tint, a caress

of colour, in these Gulf-days which is not of the Antilles,--a

spirituality, as of eternal tropical spring. It must have been

to even such a sky that Xenophanes lifted up his eyes of old

when he vowed the Infinite Blue was God;--it was indeed under

such a sky that De Soto named the vastest and grandest of

Southern havens Espiritu Santo,--the Bay of the Holy Ghost.

There is a something unutterable in this bright Gulf-air that

compels awe,--something vital, something holy, something

pantheistic and reverentially the mind asks itself if what the

eye beholds is not the [Greek: pneuma] indeed, the Infinite

Breath, the Divine Ghost, the Great Blue Soul of the Unknown.

All, all is blue in the calm,--save the low land under your

feet, which you almost forget, since it seems only as a tiny

green flake afloat in the liquid eternity of day. Then slowly,

caressingly, irresistibly, the witchery of the Infinite grows

upon you: out of Time and Space you begin to dream with open

eyes,--to drift into delicious oblivion of facts,--to forget the

past, the present, the substantial,--to comprehend nothing but

the existence of that infinite Blue Ghost as something into

which you would wish to melt utterly away for ever.

So it is told that into this perfect peace one August day in 1856, a

scarlet sun sank in a green sky, and a moonless night came.

Then the Wind grew weird. It ceased being a breath; it became a

Voice moaning across the world hooting,--uttering nightmare

sounds,--_Whoo!_--_whoo!_--_whoo!_--and with each stupendous

owl-cry the mooing of the waters seemed to deepen, more and more

abysmally, through all the hours of darkness.

Morning dawned with great rain: the steamer _Star_ was due that day. No

one dared to think of it. "Great God!" some one shrieked,--"She is

coming!"

On she came, swaying, rocking, plunging,--with a great whiteness

wrapping her about like a cloud, and moving with her moving,--a

tempest-whirl of spray;--ghost-white and like a ghost she came,

for her smoke-stacks exhaled no visible smoke--the wind devoured

it.

And still the storm grew fiercer. On shore the guests at the hotel

danced with a feverish reckless gaiety.

Again the _Star_ reeled, and shuddered, and turned, and began to

drag away from the great building and its lights,--away from the

voluptuous thunder of the grand piano,--even at that moment

outpouring the great joy of Weber's melody orchestrated by

Berlioz: _l'Invitation a la Valse_,--with its marvellous musical

swing.

--"Waltzing!" cried the captain. "God help them!--God help us

all now!... The Wind waltzes to-night, with the Sea for his

partner." ...

O the stupendous Valse-Tourbillon! O the mighty Dancer!

One-two--three! From north-east to east, from east to

south-east, from south-east to south: then from the south he

came, whirling the Sea in his arms....

And so the hurricane passed, and the day reveals utter wreck and

desolation. "There is plunder for all--birds and men."

At a fishing village on the coast on this same night of the storm

Carmen, the good wife of Feliu, dreamed--above the terrors of the

tempest which shattered her sleep--once again the dream that kept

returning of her little Concha, her first-born who slept far away in the

old churchyard at Barcelona. And this night she dreamed that her waxen

Virgin came and placed in her arms the little brown child with the

Indian face, and the face became that of her dead Conchita.

And Carmen wished to thank the Virgin for that priceless bliss,

and lifted up her eyes; but the sickness of ghostly fear

returned upon her when she looked; for now the Mother seemed as

a woman long dead, and the smile was the smile of fleshlessness,

and the places of the eyes were voids and darknesses.... And the

sea sent up so vast a roar that the dwelling rocked.

* * * * *

Feliu and his men find the tide heavy with human dead and the sea filled

with wreckage. Through this floatage Feliu detects a stir of life ... he

swims to rescue a little baby fast in the clutch of her dead mother.

To Carmen it is the meaning of her dream. The child has been sent by the

Virgin. The tale leads on through the growing life of Chita. Finally one

day Dr. La Brierre, whose wife and child had been lost in the famous

storm, is summoned to Viosca's Point to the deathbed of his father's old

friend, who is dying of the fever. It is Feliu who brings him. But

before they can reach the Point the man has already died. The Doctor

remains at Feliu's fishing smack. He feels the sickness of the fever

coming over him. Then he sees Chita.... Hers is the face of his dead

Adele. Through the fury of the fever, which has now seized him, the past

is mingled with the present. He re-lives the agony of that death-storm,

re-lives all the horror of that scene, when all that he held dear was

swept away--until his own soul passes out into the night.

The description of Dr. La Brierre in the throes of the fever is

terrible. It is so realistic that one shudders.

TWO YEARS IN THE FRENCH WEST INDIES[27] (6) was the _piece de

resistance_ of the sojourn in the tropics. Some of the papers appeared

first in _Harper's Magazine_. They are marvellous colour-pictures of the

country, its people, its life, its customs, with many of the picturesque

legends and the quaintnesses that creep into the heart.

[27] Copyright, 1890, by Harper and Brothers.

"There is not a writer who could have so steeped himself in this

languorous Creole life and then tell so well about it. Trollope and

Froude give you the hard, gritty facts, and Lafcadio Hearn the sentiment

and poetry of this beautiful island." (387.)

More and more is Hearn realizing the necessity of finding new colour. "I

hope to be able to take a trip to New Mexico in the summer just to

obtain literary material, sun-paint, tropical colour, etc." It is always

the intense that his fancy craves, and indeed _must_ have in order to

work. "There are tropical lilies which are venomous, but they are more

beautiful than the frail and icy white lilies of the North." "Whenever I

receive a new and strong impression, even in a dream, I write it down,

and afterwards develop it at leisure.... There are impressions of blue

light and gold and green, correlated to old Spanish legend, which can be

found only south of this line." "I will write you a little while I am

gone,--if I can find a little strange bit of tropical colour to spread

on the paper,--like the fine jewel-dust of scintillant moth-wings."

"Next week I go away to hunt up some tropical or semi-tropical

impressions."

He is bewitched by St. Pierre--"I love this quaint, whimsical,

wonderfully coloured little town." On opening the present volume we at

once feel how thoroughly sympathetic this whole Nature is to him, how

ravished his senses are with all that she portrays.

From Pier 49, East River, New York, we travel with Hearn through days of

colour and beauty to the glorious Caribbean Sea, where we sail on to

Roseau and St. Pierre. Here the colour is becoming so intense that the

eyes are blinded.

The luminosities of tropic foliage could only be imitated in

fire. He who desires to paint a West Indian forest,--a West

Indian landscape,--must take his view from some great height,

through which the colours come to his eye softened and subdued

by distance,--toned with blues or purples by the astonishing

atmosphere.

... It is sunset as I write these lines, and there are

witchcrafts of colour. Looking down the narrow, steep street

opening to the bay, I see the motionless silhouette of the

steamer on a perfectly green sea,--under a lilac sky,--against a

prodigious orange light.

Over her memoried paths we wander with Josephine, and then we pause

before the lovely statue which seems a living presence.

She is standing just in the centre of the Savane, robed in the

fashion of the First Empire, with gracious arms and shoulders

bare: one hand leans upon a medallion bearing the eagle profile

of Napoleon.... Seven tall palms stand in a circle around her,

lifting their comely heads into the blue glory of the tropic

day. Within their enchanted circle you feel that you tread holy

ground,--the sacred soil of artist and poet;--here the

recollections of memoir-writers vanish away; the gossip of

history is hushed for you; you no longer care to know how rumour

has it that she spoke or smiled or wept: only the bewitchment of

her lives under the thin, soft, swaying shadows of those

feminine palms.... Over violet space of summer sea, through the

vast splendour of azure light, she is looking back to the place

of her birth, back to beautiful drowsy Trois-Islets,--and always

with the same half-dreaming, half-plaintive smile,--unutterably

touching....

"Under a sky always deepening in beauty" we steam on to the level,

burning, coral coast of Barbadoes. Then on past to Demerara.

We pass through all the quaint beautiful old towns and islands. We see

their wonders of sky and sea and flowers. We see their people and all

that great race of the mixed blood.

With dear old Jean-Marie we wait for the return of Les Porteuses, and we

hear his call:--

"_Coument ou ye, che? coument ou kalle?_" ... (How art thou,

dear?--how goes it with thee?)

And they mostly make answer, "_Toutt douce, che,--et ou?_" (All

sweetly, dear,--and thou?) But some, over-weary, cry to him,

"_Ah! decharge moin vite, che! moin lasse, lasse!_" (Unload me

quickly, dear; for I am very, very weary.) Then he takes off

their burdens, and fetches bread for them, and says foolish

little things to make them laugh. And they are pleased and

laugh, just like children, as they sit right down on the road

there to munch their dry bread.

Again we follow on: this time to La Grande Anse, where we see the

powerful surf-swimmers. With the population we turn out to witness the

procession of young girls to be confirmed; we see the dances and games;

we hear the chants, and the strange music on strange instruments.

At St. Pierre once more we listen to the history of Pere Labat, who in

twelve years made his order the richest and most powerful in the West

Indies.

"Eh, Pere Labat!--what changes there have been since thy day!...

And all that ephemeral man has had power to change has been

changed,--ideas, morals, beliefs, the whole social fabric. But

the eternal summer remains,--and the Hesperian magnificence of

azure sky and violet sea,--and the jewel-colours of the

perpetual hills; the same tepid winds that rippled thy

cane-fields two hundred years ago still blow over Sainte-Marie;

the same purple shadows lengthen and dwindle and turn with the

wheeling of the sun. God's witchery still fills this land; and

the heart of the stranger is even yet snared by the beauty of

it; and the dreams of him that forsakes it will surely be

haunted--even as were thine own, Pere Labat--by memories of its

Eden-summer: the sudden leap of the light over a thousand peaks

in the glory of a tropic dawn,--the perfumed peace of enormous

azure noons,--and shapes of palm, wind-rocked in the burning of

colossal sunsets,--and the silent flickering of the great

fire-flies, through the lukewarm darkness, when mothers call

their children home.... '_Mi fanal Pe Labatt!--mi Pe Labatt ka

vini pouend ou!_'"

Then we see the lights of the shrines that will protect us from the

Zombi and the Moun-Mo, and all the terrible beings who are filled with

witchcraft; and we listen to the tale of that Zombi who likes to take

the shape of a lissome young negress.

By this time it is Carnival Week with its dances and games and maskers.

But a little later we are shuddering at the horrible pestilence Verette

that has seized the city. A gleam of the old love of horror is caught in

the following quotation:--

She was the prettiest, assuredly, among the pretty shop-girls of

the Grande Rue,--a rare type of _sang-melee_. So oddly pleasing,

the young face, that once seen, you could never again dissociate

the recollection of it from the memory of the street. But one

who saw it last night before they poured quick-lime upon it

could discern no features,--only a dark brown mass, like a

fungus, too frightful to think about.

At the beautiful Savane du Fort our eyes and hearts are gladdened by the

quaint sight of the Blanchisseuses with their snowy linen spread out for

miles along the river's bank. Their laughter echoes in our ears, and we

try to catch the words of their little songs.

One warm and starry, and to us unforgettable, September morning we make

the ascent of Mt. Pelee by the way of Morne St. Martin, and on our way

we come to know the country that lies all around. Let me quote our

sensation as we reach the summit:--

At the beginning, while gazing south, east, west, to the rim of

the world, all laughed, shouted, interchanged the quick delight

of new impressions: every face was radiant.... Now all look

serious; none speaks.... Dominating all, I think, is the

consciousness of the awful antiquity of what one is looking

upon,--such a sensation, perhaps, as of old found utterance in

that tremendous question of the Book of Job: "_Wast thou brought

forth before the hills?_"

And the blue multitudes of the peaks, the perpetual congregation

of the mornes, seem to chorus in the vast resplendence,--telling

of Nature's eternal youth, and the passionless permanence of

that about us and beyond us and beneath,--until something like

the fulness of a grief begins to weigh at the heart.... For all

this astonishment of beauty, all this majesty of light and form

and colour, will surely endure,--marvellous as now,--after we

shall have lain down to sleep where no dreams come, and may

never arise from the dust of our rest to look upon it.

Another day we are laughing at the little _ti canotie_ who in the

queerest tiny boats surround a steamer as soon as she drops anchor.

These are the boys who dive for coins. A sad tale is told of Maximilien

and Strephane. Again our hearts are moved by the pathos and the tragedy

of La Fille de Couleur; and in this chapter we find that characteristic

description:--

I refer to the celebrated attire of the pet slaves and _belles

affranchies_ of the old colonial days. A full

costume,--including violet or crimson "petticoat" of silk or

satin; chemise with half-sleeves, and much embroidery and lace;

"trembling-pins" of gold (_zepingue tremblant_) to attach the

folds of the brilliant Madras turban; the great necklace of

three or four strings of gold beads bigger than peas

(_collier-choux_); the ear-rings, immense but light as

egg-shells (_zanneaux-a-clous_ or _zanneaux-chenilles_); the

bracelets (_portes-bonheur_); the studs (_boutons-a-clous_); the

brooches, not only for the turban, but for the chemise, below

the folds of the showy silken foulard or shoulder-scarf,--would

sometimes represent over five thousand francs' expenditure. This

gorgeous attire is becoming less visible every year: it is now

rarely worn except on very solemn occasions,--weddings,

baptisms, first communions, confirmations. The _da_ (nurse) or

"_porteuse-de-bapteme_" who bears the baby to church, holds it

at the baptismal font, and afterwards carries it from house to

house in order that all the friends of the family may kiss it,

is thus attired: but now-a-days, unless she be a professional

(for there are professional _das_, hired only for such

occasions), she usually borrows the jewellery. If tall, young,

graceful, with a rich gold tone of skin, the effect of her

costume is dazzling as that of a Byzantine Virgin. I saw one

young _da_ who, thus garbed, scarcely seemed of the earth and

earthly;--there was an Oriental something in her appearance

difficult to describe,--something that made you think of the

Queen at Sheba going to visit Solomon. She had brought a

merchant's baby, just christened, to receive the caresses of the

family at whose house I was visiting; and when it came to my

turn to kiss it, I confess I could not notice the child: I saw

only the beautiful dark face, coiffed with orange and purple,

bending over it, in an illumination of antique gold. What a

_da_!... She represented really the type of that _belle

affranchie_ of other days, against whose fascination special

sumptuary laws were made: romantically she imaged for me the

supernatural godmothers and Cinderellas of the Creole

fairy-tales.

Still we have much to learn about the little creatures in the shapes of

ants and scorpions and lizards. They form no small part of the

population of Martinique. And still more about the fruits and the

vegetables do we learn from good Cyrillia, Ma Bonne. One longs to have a

housekeeper as loving and child-like and solicitous. We leave her gazing

with love unutterable at the new photograph of her daughter, and

wondering the while why they do not make a portrait talk so that she can

talk to her beautiful daughter.

And day by day the artlessness of this exotic humanity touches

you more;--day by day this savage, somnolent, splendid

Nature--delighting in furious colour--bewitches you more.

Already the anticipated necessity of having to leave it all some

day--the far-seen pain of bidding it farewell weighs upon you,

even in dreams.

But before we go, we must learn how Nature must treat those who are not

born under her suns.

Then at last reluctantly we board the _Guadeloupe_, and with

Mademoiselle Violet-Eyes, who is leaving her country, perhaps for a very

long time, to become a governess in New York, we realize that nowhere on

this earth may there be brighter skies.

Farewell, fair city,--sun-kissed city,--many-fountained

city!--dear yellow-glimmering streets,--white pavements learned

by heart,--and faces ever looked for,--and voices ever loved!

Farewell, white towers with your golden-throated

bells!--farewell, green steeps, bathed in the light of summer

everlasting!--craters with your coronets of forests!--bright

mountain paths upwinding 'neath pomp of fern and angelin and

feathery bamboo!--and gracious palms that drowse above the dead!

Farewell, soft-shadowing majesty of valleys unfolding to the

sun,--green golden cane-fields ripening to the sea!...

Dominica, Guadeloupe, Martinique, Pelee--so they vanish behind us. Shall

not we too become _Les Revenants_?

YOUMA[28] (5) was written in Martinique, and also belongs to the New

Orleans period. "I think you will like it better than 'Chita.' It is

more mature and exotic by far,"--so Hearn wrote of the story in one of

his letters. Later on, when living in Japan, he wrote:--

[28] Copyright, 1890, by Harper and Brothers.

It gave me no small pleasure to find that you like "Youma": you

will not like it less knowing that the story is substantially

true. You can see the ruins of the old house in the Quartier du

Fort if you ever visit Saint-Pierre, and perhaps meet my old

friend Arnoux, a survivor of the time. The girl really died

under the heroic conditions described--refusing the help of the

blacks and the ladder. Of course I may have idealized her, but

not her act. The incident of the serpent occurred also; but the

heroine was a different person,--a plantation girl, celebrated

by the historian Rufz de Lavison. I wrote the story under

wretched circumstances in Martinique, near the scenes described,

and under the cross with the black Christ.

An English notice says:--

"It is an admirable little tale, full of local characteristics with

curious fragments of Creole French from Martinique, and abundance of

wide human sympathy. It deserves reprinting for English readers more

than three-fourths of the fiction which is wont to cross the Atlantic

under similar circumstances." (294.)

"Youma" is the tale of the exquisite devotion and loyalty of a _da_. (A

_da_ is the foster-mother and nurse of a Creole child.) At the death of

Aimee, Youma's playmate and rich foster-sister, little Mayotte, her

child, becomes Youma's charge. An intimate description is given us of

the Creole life of Mayotte and Youma. The love of this _da_ is very

beautiful. Once with an extraordinary heroism Youma saves Mayotte from a

serpent which has slipped into their room. With a still greater heroism

she refuses to run away with Gabriel, who has opened the world to

her,--Gabriel who has brought her love, and whom she can marry in no

other way. No, above the pleadings of her lover, comes the voice of her

dying mistress, begging, with such trust,--

"Youma, O Youma! you will love my child?--Youma, you will never

leave her, whatever happens, while she is little? promise, dear

Youma!"

And she had--promised....

Then comes the final test of Youma's strength of devotion. There is an

outbreak among the blacks, who have become inflamed by the dreams of

coming freedom. The Desrivieres with many other families are forced to

flee for refuge in safer quarters. Under one roof all these people

gather. Youma is urged to leave and save herself. But she will not

forsake Mayotte or her master. The infuriated blacks surround the house,

and horror follows. Presently the house is set on fire. Youma, with

Mayotte in her arms, appears at an upper window. Gabriel, "daring the

hell about him for her sake," puts up a ladder. Youma hands him Mayotte.

"Can you save her?" she asks.

"Gabriel could only shake his head;--the street sent up so

frightful a cry....

"_Non!--non!--non!--pa le yche-beke--janmain yche-beke!_"

"Then you cannot save me!" cried Youma, clasping the child to

her bosom,--"_janmain! janmain, mon ami._"

"Youma, in the name of God...."

"In the name of God, you ask me to be a coward!... Are you vile,

Gabriel?--are you base?... Save myself and leave the child to

burn?... Go!"

"Leave the _beke's yche_!--leave it!--leave it, girl!" shouted a

hundred voices.

"_Moin!_" cried Youma, retreating beyond the reach of Gabriel's

hand,--"_moin!_ ... Never shall I leave it, never! I shall go to

God with it."

"Burn with it, then!" howled the negroes ... "down with that

ladder! down with it, down with it!"

The ladder catches fire and burns. The walls quiver, and there are

shrieks from the back of the house. Unmoved, with a perfect calm, Youma

remains at the window. "There is now neither hate nor fear on her fine

face." Softly she whispers to Mayotte, and caresses her with an infinite

tenderness. Never to Gabriel had she seemed so beautiful.

Another minute--and he saw her no more. The figure and the light

vanished together, as beams and floor and roof all quaked down

at once into darkness.... Only the skeleton of stone

remained,--black-smoking to the stars.

A stillness follows. The murderers are appalled by their crime.

Then, from below, the flames wrestled out again,--crimsoning the

smoke whirls, the naked masonry, the wreck of timbers. They

wriggled upward, lengthening, lapping together,--lifted

themselves erect,--grew taller, fiercer,--twined into one huge

fluid spire of tongues that flapped and shivered high into the

night....

The yellowing light swelled,--expanded from promontory to

promontory,--palpitated over the harbour,--climbed the broken

slopes of the dead volcano leagues through the gloom. The wooded

mornes towered about the city in weird illumination,--seeming

loftier than by day,--blanching and shadowing alternately with

the soaring and sinking of the fire;--and at each huge pulsing

of the glow, the white cross of their central summit stood

revealed, with the strange passion of its black Christ.

... And at the same hour, from the other side of the world,--a

ship was running before the sun, bearing the Republican gift of

liberty and promise of universal suffrage to the slaves of

Martinique.

There are two little bits of description which are so characteristic

that I quote them:--

Then she became aware of a face ... lighted by a light that came

from nowhere,--that was only a memory of some long-dead morning.

And through the dimness round about it a soft blue radiance

grew,--the ghost of a day.

Sunset yellowed the sky,--filled the horizon with flare of

gold;--the sea changed its blue to lilac;--the mornes brightened

their vivid green to a tone so luminous that they seemed turning

phosphorescent. Rapidly the glow crimsoned,--shadows purpled;

and night spread swiftly from the east,--black-violet and full

of stars.

KARMA[29] (242) was written during the Philadelphia period, but was not

published in _Lippincott's Magazine_ until after Hearn had sailed for

Japan. The story is concentrated, with its every word a shaft of light,

and it seems a wrong to attempt to epitomize it. Except in its entirety

no adequate conception can be formed of this marvellous revelation of

the anguish that a human soul may suffer; nor of the artistic power with

which Hearn has developed and perfected his study. Many quotations could

be gleaned from his subsequent books which reflect the inspiration of

"Karma."

[29] Copyright, 1889, by Lafcadio Hearn; and, copyright, 1890

by J. B. Lippincott Company.

Despite her unusual intellect, the heroine had a childlike simplicity

and frankness which invited her lover's confidence, but he had never

told her his admiration, for a dormant power beneath her girlishness

made a compliment seem a rudeness. He was often alone with her, which is

helpful to lovers, but her charm always confused him, and his

embarrassment only deepened. One day she archly asked him to tell her

about it.

Is there one who does not know that moment when the woman beloved

becomes the ideal, and the lover feels his utter unworthiness? Yet, if

she is one of those rare souls, the illusion, however divine, is less

perfect than is her worth. Do you know what she truly is--how she

signifies "the whole history of love striving against hate, aspiration

against pain, truth against ignorance, sympathy against pitilessness?

She,--the soul of her! is the ripened passion-flower of the triumph. All

the heroisms, the martyrdoms, the immolations of self,--all strong

soarings of will through fire and blood to God since humanity

began,--conspired to kindle the flame of her higher life."

And then you question yourself with a thousand questions, and then there

are as many more of your duty to her, to the future, and to the Supreme

Father.

She was not surprised when he told her his wish, but she was not

confident that he really loved her, nor whether she should permit

herself to like him. Finally she bade him go home and "as soon as you

feel able to do it properly,--write out for me a short history of your

life;--just write down everything you feel that you would not like me to

know. Write it,--and send it.... And then I shall tell you whether I

will marry you."

How easy the task seemed, and his whole being was joyous; but the

lightness lasted for only a moment, and gradually all that her command

meant crept over him.... "_Everything you feel you would not like me to

know._" Surely she had no realization of what she had asked. Did she

imagine that men were good like women--how cruel to hurt her.

Then for a period he was uplifted with the desire to meet her

truthfulness, but his courage failed again after he had written down the

record of his childhood and youth. It was no slight task to make this

confession of his sins. And how pale and trivial they had seemed before.

Was it possible that he had never before rightly looked at them? Yet why

should he so falter? Surely she meant to pardon him. He must put

everything down truthfully, and then recolour the whole for her gaze.

But his face grew hot at the thought of certain passages.

Hour after hour he sat at his desk until it was past midnight, but no

skill could soften the stony facts. Finally he lay down to rest: his

fevered brain tried to find excuses for his faults. He could forgive

himself everything ... except--ah, how unutterably wicked he had been

there. No, he could not tell her _that_: instead he must lose her for

ever. And in losing her he would lose all the higher self which she had

awakened. To lose her--when he of all men had found his ideal.

"_Everything you feel you would not like me to know._" Perhaps when she

had put this ban upon him, she suspected that there were incidents in

his life which he dared not tell her. Could he not deceive her? No, he

might write a lie, but he could never meet her fine sweet eyes with a

lie. What was he to do? And why had he always been so humble before that

slight girl? "Assuredly those fine grey eyes were never lowered before

living gaze: she seemed as one who might look God in the face."

Slowly his senses became more confused, and a darkness came, and a light

in the darkness that shone on her; and he saw her bathed in a soft

radiance, that seemed of some substance like ivory. And he knew that she

was robing for her bridal with him.

He was at her side: all around them was a gentle whispering of many

friends, who were dead. Would they smile thus--_if they knew_?

Then there arose something within him, and he knew that he must tell her

all. He commenced to speak, and she became transfigured, and smiled at

him with the tenderness of an angel; and the more he told the greater

was her forgiveness. And he heard the voices of the others lauding him

for his self-sacrifice and his sincerity. Yet as they praised a fear

clutched him for one last avowal that he must make. And with the growing

of this doubt all seemed maliciously to change, and even she no longer

smiled. He then would have told her alone, but even as he tried to hush

his voice, it seemed to pierce the quietude "with frightful audibility,

like the sibilation of a possessing spirit." Then with a reckless

despair he shouted it aloud, and everything vanished, and the darkness

of night was about him.

For many restless days and nights he harried himself with bitter

self-analysis; and day by day he tore up a certain page; yet without

that page his manuscript was worthless. As the days grew into weeks a

new fear seized him that his silence had betrayed him, and that already

she had decided against him. In the face of this danger he became

terrified, and one morning he feverishly copied the memorable page, and,

addressing the whole, dropped it in the first letter-box, before he

might change his mind.

Then an awful revelation of his act overcame him. Should he telegraph

her to return the manuscript unopened. No, it was already too late. What

was done--was done for ever. He now vaguely realized what he feared in

her--"a penetrating dynamic moral power that he felt without

comprehending." He tried to steel himself for the worst, but he knew

with a premonition that behind his imagined worst there were depths

beyond depths of worse.

The single word "Come" which he received two days later confirmed his

fears. When he reached the door of her apartment, she had already risen

to take from a locked drawer an envelope which he knew was his. She

proffered him no greeting, but asked in a cold voice if he wished her to

burn the document. At his whispered _yes_, he met her eyes, and they

seemed to strip him of the last remnant of his pride. "He stood before

her as before God,--morally naked as a soul in painted dreams of the

Judgment Day."

The fire caught the paper, and he stood near, in fear of her next word,

while she watched the flame.

At last she asked if the woman was dead. He well knew to what she

referred, and replied that almost five years had passed since her death.

To the penetrating questions which followed he answered that the

child--a boy--was well, and that his friend was still there--in the same

place. She turned to him abruptly and coldly, angered that he could have

believed that she would pardon such a crime.

He must have had some hope, or he would not have sent the letter. Had he

measured her by his own moral standard? Certainly he had placed her

below the level of honest people. Would he dare to ask their judgment of

his sin?

Speechless, he writhed under the scorn of her words, and a knowledge of

shame to which his former agony was as nothing burned within him. That

in him which her inborn goodness had taught her, was now laid bare to

himself.

Again she spoke after a silence--perhaps he would think she was cruel;

but she was not, nor was she unjust, for transcendent sin that denies

"all the social wisdom gained by human experience" cannot be pardoned,

it can only be atoned. And that sin was his; and God would exact his

expiation. And that expiation she now demanded in God's name, and as her

right. He must go to the friend whom he had wronged, and tell him the

whole truth. He must ask for the child, and fulfil his whole duty; also

he must place even his life at the man's will. And she would rather see

him dead than believe that he could be a coward as well as a criminal.

This she requested not as a favour, but as her right.

At her words he grew pale as if to death, and for a moment she feared

that he might refuse, and that she must despise him. No! his colour

rushed back, and her heart leaped, as with a calm resolve he answered,

"I will do it."

"Then go!" she replied, betraying no gladness.

A year went by. She knew that he had kept his promise. He wrote to her

often, and passionately, but the letters were never answered. Did she

doubt him still?--or was she afraid of her own heart? He could not know

the truth, so he waited with hopes and fears, and the seasons passed.

Then one day she was startled to receive a letter which told her that he

was passing through her suburb, and he begged only to be permitted to

see her. To his surprise the answer brought the happy words, "You may."

From the shy, beautiful eyes of the child, whom he brought, there seemed

to plead a woman's sorrow, until her own soul answered in forgiveness.

And the boy and the father marvelled at the tenderness that had come

upon her, and the father sobbed until her voice thrilled: that suffering

was strength and knowledge, that always he must suffer for the evil he

had wrought, but she would help him to bear the pain, and to endure his

atonement. She would shield his frailty--she would love his boy.

THE CRIME OF SYLVESTRE BONNARD (21) was translated in New York, while

Hearn was finishing the proofs of "Two Years in the French West Indies."

Of it he writes:--

As for the "Sylvestre Bonnard" I believe I told you that that

was translated in about ten days and published in two weeks from

the time of beginning it.... But the work suffers in consequence

of haste.

After his departure for the Orient, two articles on West Indian Society

appeared in the _Cosmopolitan_ (243-244). They give a sympathetic study

of the sad and pathetic tragedy of the race of the mixed blood. These

articles bear a similarity to the chapter upon and the references to

this subject, in "Two Years in the French West Indies."

GLIMPSES OF UNFAMILIAR JAPAN[30] (7) is the first of the series of

Japanese books. It was published after Hearn had been in Japan for four

years; since 1891 six of the articles had appeared in the _Atlantic

Monthly_ (246-251). Also in 1890, an article, "A Winter Journey to

Japan," was published in _Harper's Monthly_ (245). This was his initial

paper on Japan.

[30] Copyright, 1894, by Lafcadio Hearn; and published by

Houghton, Mifflin and Company.]

In many ways the present book on Japan is his happiest, for the charm

over everything is fresh and radiant. It is here that we learn the old

graceful customs, the touching child-like ways, and the sacred appealing

rites and beliefs that so endear to us the Japanese. Later we are to

have studies more philosophical, more erudite, but none more penetrating

in virtue of the very simplicity of subject.

It is difficult to believe that the writer, bewitched with the warmth

and colour of the tropics, giving his pen an unlicensed flow of word

colour and enthusiasm, in a few years could have matured into this

quiet, gentle thinker equally absorbed by the East. One finds scarcely a

trace of the Hearn of the tropics: therein lies his unique genius; just

so admirably as he reflected the West Indian life, does he now reflect

that of the Japanese.

It is the old Japan that Hearn loves, and the passing of which he mourns

even at the first. In his Preface, he says, "My own conviction, and that

of many impartial and more experienced observers of Japanese life, is

that Japan has nothing whatever to gain by conversion to Christianity,

either morally or otherwise, but very much to lose." Also in one of his

letters he writes, "I felt, as never before, how utterly dead old Japan

is, and how ugly New Japan is becoming." It is old Japan that we find in

the present volume. It is much as if we looked into a diary of his first

days in the Orient, giving his impressions and conclusions, as well as

portraying the pictures themselves.

One of the reviews of the book contains the following:--

"If Japan is all that he says; if the Japanese are so compounded of all

the virtues, and so innocent of the ugly failings that mar our Western

civilization, then the poet's dream of a Golden Age has actually been

realized in the remote East. Much as we should like to believe that such

a land and such a people actually exist, we cannot altogether conquer

our doubts, or avoid the suspicion that the author's feeling sometimes

gets the better of his judgment." (379.)

And another says:--

"In volume one he is still the outside observer, remote enough to be

amused with the little pretty, bird-like glances of the Orient towards

the Occident, pleased at the happy chance which makes a blind

shampooer's cry musical as she taps her way down the street, instead of

giving her a voice raucous as that which hurts and haunts the unwilling

ears of wayfarers down Newgate Street and on Ludgate-Hill; or

complimentary to the cunning fancy which paints a branch of flowering

cherry in a cleft bamboo on a square of faintly-coloured paper and calls

the cherry blossom 'beauty' and the bamboo 'long life.' He notices the

shapely feet of the people: 'bare brown feet of peasants, or beautiful

feet of children wearing tiny, tiny _geta_, or feet of young girls in

snowy _tabi_. The _tabi_, the white digitated stocking, gives to a small

light foot a mythological aspect--the white cleft grace of the foot of a

fauness.'

"A little further on the leaven of witchcraft is working, and he cannot

write so airily. It is not as a mere spectator that he talks of his

visit to the Buddhist cemetery, where the rotting wooden laths stand

huddled about the graves, and one tomb bears an English name and a cross

chiselled upon it. Here he made acquaintance with the god, who is the

lover of little children, Jizo-Sama, about whose feet are little

piles of stones heaped there by the hands of mothers of dead children.

He is not quite as much in earnest as volume two will find him, or he

could not call the gentle god 'that charming divinity'; but the

sight-seer is dying in him nevertheless. It was with a friend's hand

that he struck the great bell at Enoshima." (286.)

But even here with a new world unfolding to his delighted eyes, it was

colour that Hearn really wanted.

I am not easy about my book, of which I now await the proofs. It

lacks colour--it isn't like the West Indian book. But the world

here is not forceful: it is all washed in faint blues and greys

and greens. There are really _gamboge_, or saffron-coloured

valleys,--and lilac fields; but these exist only in the early

summer and the rape-plant season, and ordinarily Japan is

chromatically spectral.

The opening chapter is his first day in the Orient, "the first charm of

Japan is intangible and volatile as a perfume." Everything seems to him

elfish and diminutive. "Cha," his Kurumaya, takes him past the shops

where it appears to him "that everything Japanese is delicate,

exquisite, admirable--even a pair of common wooden chop-sticks in a

paper bag with a little drawing upon it." The money itself is a thing of

beauty. But one must not dare to look, for there is enchantment in these

wares, and having looked, one must buy. In truth one wishes to buy

everything, even to the whole land, "with its magical trees and luminous

atmosphere, with all its cities and towns and temples, and forty

millions of the most lovable people."

Before the steps leading to a temple he stops.

I turn a moment to look back through the glorious light. Sea and

sky mingle in the same beautiful pale clear blue. Below me the

billowing of bluish roofs reaches to the verge of the unruffled

bay on the right, and to the feet of the green wooded hills

flanking the city on two sides. Beyond that semi-circle of green

hills rises a lofty range of serrated mountains, indigo

silhouettes. And enormously high above the line of them towers

an apparition indescribably lovely,--one solitary snowy cone, so

filmly exquisite, so spiritually white, that but for its

immemorially familiar outline, one would surely deem it a shape

of cloud. Invisible its base remains, being the same delicious

tint as the sky: only above the eternal snow-line its dreamy

cone appears, seeming to hang, the ghost of a peak, between the

luminous land and the luminous heaven,--the sacred and matchless

mountain, Fujiyama.

Passing to the temple garden he wonders why the trees are so lovely in

Japan.

Is it that the trees have been so long domesticated and caressed

by man in this land of the gods, that they have acquired souls,

and strive to show their gratitude, like women loved, by making

themselves more beautiful for man's sake? Assuredly they have

mastered men's hearts by their loveliness, like beautiful

slaves. That is to say, Japanese hearts. Apparently there have

been some foreign tourists of the brutal class in this place,

since it has been deemed necessary to set up inscriptions in

English announcing that "it is forbidden to injure the trees."

Of Hearn's first visit to a Buddhist temple, I quote what one of his

critics has to say:--

"The silence of centuries seems to descend upon your soul, you feel the

thrill of something above and beyond the commonplace of this every-day

world, even here, amidst the turmoil, the rush, the struggle of this

monster city of the West, if you take up his 'Glimpses of Unfamiliar

Japan,' and turn to his description of his first visit to a Buddhist

temple. Marvellous is his power of imparting the mystery of that strange

land, of hidden meanings and allegories, of mists and legends. The

bygone spirit of the race, the very essence of the heart of the people,

that has lain sleeping in the temple gloom, in the shadows of the temple

shrines, awakes and whispers in your ears. You feel the soft, cushioned

matting beneath your feet, you smell the faint odour of the incense, you

hear the shuffling of pilgrim feet, the priest sliding back screen after

screen, pouring in light upon the gilded bronzes and inscriptions; and

you look for the image of the Deity, of the presiding Spirit, between

the altar groups of convoluted candelabra. And you see:

Only a mirror, a round, pale disc of polished metal, and my own

face therein, and behind this mockery of me a phantom of the far

sea.

Only a mirror! Symbolizing what? Illusion? Or that the Universe

exists for us solely as the reflection of our own souls? Or the

old Chinese teaching that we must seek the Buddha only in our

own hearts? Perhaps some day I shall be able to find out. (350.)

Many more temples are visited in the following chapter. What impresses

him the most is the joyousness of the people's faith: everything is

bright and cheerful, and the air is filled with the sound of children's

voices as they play in the courts. He sees the many representations of

Jizo, the loving divinity who cares for the souls of little children,

who comforts them, and saves them from the demons. The face of Jizo

is like that of a beautiful boy, and the countenance is made "heavenly

by such a smile as only Buddhist art could have imagined, the smile of

infinite lovingness and supremest gentleness." There is also Kwannon,

"the goddess of mercy, the gentle divinity who refused the rest of

Nirvana to save the souls of men." Her face is golden, smiling with

eternal youth and infinite tenderness. And he sees Emma Dai-O, the

unpitying, tremendous one. He learns many things of many gods and

goddesses. There is the temple of Kishibojin--the mother of Demons. For

some former sin she was born a demon and devoured her own children. But

through the teaching of Buddha she became a divine being, loving and

protecting the little ones, and Japanese mothers pray to her, and wives

pray for beautiful boys. At her shrine what impresses the visitor are

hundreds of tiny dresses, mostly of poor material, stretched between

tall poles of bamboos. These are the thank-offerings of poor simple

country mothers whose prayers to her have been answered.

In another chapter Hearn writes of the Festival of the Dead, for between

the 13th and the 15th day of July the dead may come back again. Every

small and great shrine is made beautiful with new mats of purest rice

straw, and is decorated with lotus flowers, _shikimi_ (anise) and

_misohagi_ (lespedeza). Food offerings, served on a tiny lacquered

table--a _zen_--are placed before the altars. Every hour, tea daintily

served in little cups is offered to the viewless visitors. At night

beautiful special lanterns are hung at the entrances of homes. Those who

have dead friends visit the cemeteries and make offerings there with

prayers, and the sprinkling of water, and the burning of incense. On the

evening of the 15th the ghosts of those, who in expiation of faults

committed in a previous life are doomed to hunger, are fed. And also are

fed the ghosts of those who have no friends.

For three days everything is done to feast the dead, and on the last

night there comes the touching ceremony of farewell, for the dead must

then return.

Everything has been prepared for them. In each home small boats

made of barley straw closely woven have been freighted with

supplies of choice food, with tiny lanterns, and written

messages of faith and love. Seldom more than two feet in length

are these boats; but the dead require little room. And the frail

craft are launched on canal, lake, sea, or river,--each with a

miniature lantern glowing at the prow, and incense burning at

the stern. And if the night be fair, they voyage long. Down all

the creeks and rivers and canals the phantom fleets go

glimmering to the sea; and all the sea sparkles to the horizon

with the lights of the dead, and the sea wind is fragrant with

incense.

But alas! it is now forbidden in the great seaports to launch

the _shoryobune_, "the boats of the blessed ghosts."

In Kami-Ichi, in the land of Hoki, there is a glimpse into ancient

Japan, for there the Bon-odori, the Dance of the Festival of the Dead,

is still maintained. No longer is it danced in the cities. In the temple

court, in the shadow of the tomb, with the moonlight as a guide, long

processions of young girls dance a slow ghostly dance while the vast

audience of spectators keeps a perfect stillness. A deep male chant is

heard, and the women respond. Many songs follow, until the night is

waning. Then this seeming witchcraft ends, and with merry laughter and

soft chatting all disperse.

Hearn spends a long happy day at Matsue, the chief city of the Province

of the Gods, where he gathers legends and impressions. Of course it has

its temples. The temple is the best place to see the life of the people.

There it is that the children play all day long. In the summer evening,

the young artisans and labourers prove their strength in

wrestling-matches. The sacred dances are held there; and on holidays it

is also the place where toys are sold.

Often at night your attention will be drawn to a large, silent, admiring

group of people standing before some little booth. They will be looking

at a few vases of sprays of flowers--an exhibition of skill in their

arrangement.

Returning homeward, there is seen a poor woman scattering some white

papers into a stream of water, and, as she throws each one in, murmuring

something sweet in a low voice. She is praying for her little dead

child, and these are little prayers that she has written to Jizo.

Kitzuki is the most ancient shrine in Japan, and it is the living centre

of Shinto. There the ancient faith burns as brightly as ever it did

in the unknown past. Buddhism may be doomed to pass away, but Shinto

"unchanging and vitally unchanged remains dominant, and appears but to

gain in power and dignity." Many of the wisest scholars have tried to

define Shinto.

But the reality of Shinto lives not in books, nor in rites,

nor in commandments, but in the national heart, of which it is

the highest emotional religious expression, immortal and ever

young. Far underlying all the surface crop of quaint

superstitions and artless myths and fantastic magic, there

thrills a mighty spiritual force, the whole soul of a race with

all its impulses and powers and intuitions. He who would know

what Shinto is must learn to know that mysterious soul in

which the sense of beauty and the power of art and the fire of

heroism and magnetism of loyalty and the emotion of faith have

become inherent, immanent, unconscious, instinctive.

At Kaka is the Cave of the Children's Ghosts. No evil person may enter

the Shin-Kukedo, for if he does, a large stone will detach itself and

fall down upon him. Here in this great vault, lifting forty feet above

the water, and with walls thirty feet apart, is a white rock out of

which drips a water apparently as white as the rock itself. This is the

Fountain of Jizo, which gives milk to the souls of little dead

children.

And mothers suffering from want of milk come hither to pray that

milk may be given unto them; and their prayer is heard. And

mothers having more milk than their infants need come hither

also, and pray to Jizo that so much as they can give may be

taken for the dead children; and their prayer is heard and their

milk diminishes.

At least thus the peasants of Izumo say.

In another cavern are countless little piles of stones and pebbles,

which must have been made by long and patient labour. It is the work of

the dead children. One must step carefully, for the sake of these little

ones, for if any work is spoiled, they will cry. In the sand are prints

of little naked feet, "_the footprints of the infant ghosts_." Strewn

here and there on the rocks are tiny straw sandals, pilgrims' offerings

to keep the baby feet from being bruised by the stones.

In the temple of Hojinji of the Zen sect at Mionoseki, there is an altar

which bears many images of Kwannon, the Goddess of Mercy. Before the

altar, and hung from the carven ceiling, is a bright coloured mass of

embroidered purses, patterns of silk-weaving and of cotton-weaving, also

balls of threads and worsted and silk. These are the first offerings of

little girls. As soon as a baby girl learns how to sew or knit or

embroider, she brings to the Maid-Mother of all grace and sweetness and

pity, the first piece that she has made successfully.

Even the infants of the Japanese kindergarten bring their first

work here,--pretty paper-cuttings, scissored out and plaited

into divers patterns by their own tiny flower-soft hands.

Among the many Notes on Kitzuki which interest, is the annual festival

of the Divine Scribe, the Tenjin-Matsuri, to which every school-boy

sends a specimen of his best writing. The texts are in Chinese

characters, and are generally drawn from the works of Confucius or

Mencius. And Hearn remarks that the children of other countries can

never excel in the art of Japanese writing. The inner ancestral

tendencies will not let them catch the secret of the stroke with the

brush. It is the fingers of the dead that move the brush of the Japanese

boy.

At every temple festival in Japan there is a sale of toys. And every

mother, however poor, buys her child a toy. They are not costly, and are

charming. Many of these toys would seem odd to a little English child.

There is a tiny drum, a model of the drum used in the temples; or a

miniature sambo table, upon which offerings are presented to the gods.

There is a bunch of bells fastened to a wooden handle. It resembles a

rattle, but it is a model of the sacred _suzu_ which the virgin

priestess uses in her dance before the gods. Then there are tiny images

of priests and gods and goddesses. There is little of grimness in the

faiths of the Far East; their gods smile. "Why religion should be

considered too awful a subject for children to amuse themselves decently

with never occurs to the common Japanese mind."

Besides these, there are pretty toys illustrating some fairy-tale or

superstition and many other playthings of clever devices, and the little

doll, O-Hina-San (Honourable Miss Hina), which is a type of Japanese

girl beauty. The doll in Japan is a sacred part of the household. There

is a belief that if it is treasured long enough it becomes alive. Such a

doll is treated like a real child: it is supposed to possess

supernatural powers. One had such rare powers that childless couples

used to borrow it. They would minister to it, and would give it a new

outfit of clothes before returning it to its owners. All who did this

became parents. To the Japanese a new doll is only a doll; but a doll

that has received the love of many generations acquires a soul. A little

Japanese girl was asked, "How can a doll live?" "Why," was the lovely

answer, "_if you love it enough_, it will live!"

Never is the corpse of a doll thrown away. When it has become so worn

out that it must be considered quite dead, it is either burned or cast

in running water, or it is dedicated to the God Kojin. In almost

every temple ground there is planted a tree called _enoki_, which is

sacred to Kojin. Before the tree will be a little shrine, and either

there or at the foot of the sacred tree, the sad little remains will be

laid. Seldom during the lifetime of its owner is a doll given to

Kojin.

When you see one thus exposed, you may be almost certain that it

was found among the effects of some poor dead woman--the

innocent memento of her girlhood, perhaps even also of the

girlhood of her mother and of her mother's mother.

There is a sad and awful tradition in the history of the Kengyos, the

oldest of the noble families of Izumo. Seven generations ago the

Daimyo of Izumo made his first official visit to the temples of

Hinomisaki, and was entertained royally by the Kengyo. As was the

custom, the young wife served the royal visitor. Her simple beauty

unfortunately enchanted him, and he demanded that she leave her husband

and go with him. Terrified, but like a brave loving wife and mother, she

answered that sooner than desert her husband and child she would kill

herself.

The Lord of Izumo went away, but the little household well knew the evil

that now shadowed it. And shortly the Kengyo was suddenly taken from

his family; tried at once for some unknown offence, and banished to the

islands of Oki, where he died. The Daimyo was exultant, for no

obstacle was in the way of his desire. The wife of the dead Kengyo

was the daughter of his own minister, whose name was Kamiya. Kamiya was

summoned before the Daimyo, who told him that there was no longer any

reason why Kamiya's daughter should not enter his household, and bade

Kamiya bring her to him.

The next day Kamiya returned, and with the utmost ceremony announced

that the command had been fulfilled--the victim had arrived.

Smiling for pleasure, the Matsudaira ordered that she should be

brought at once into his presence. The Karo prostrated

himself, retired, and presently returned, placed before his

master a _kubi-oke_ upon which lay the freshly-severed head of a

beautiful woman,--the head of the young wife of the dead

Kengyo,--with the simple utterance:

"This is my daughter."

Dead by her own brave will,--but never dishonoured.

"None love life more than the Japanese; none fear death less." So it is

that when two lovers find that they can never wed, they keep the love

death together, which is _joshi_ or _shinju_. By dying they

believe that they will at once be united in another world. They always

pray that they may be buried together. (In other books are written

additional stories illustrating the touching custom.)

At the temple of Yaegaki at Sakusa, are the Deities of Wedlock and of

Love, and thither go all youths and maidens who are in love. Hundreds of

strips of soft white paper are knotted to the gratings of the doors of

the shrine. These are the prayers of love. Also there are tresses of

girls' hair, love-sacrifices, and offerings of sea-water and of

sea-weed. In the soil around the foundation of the shrine are planted

quantities of small paper flags.

All over Japan there are little Shinto shrines before which are

images in stone of foxes.

The rustic foxes of Izumo have no grace: they are uncouth; but

they betray in countless queer ways the personal fancies of

their makers. They are of many moods,--whimsical, apathetic,

inquisitive, saturnine, jocose, ironical; they watch and snooze

and squint and wink and sneer; they wait with lurking smiles;

they listen with cocked ears most stealthily, keeping their

mouths open or closed. There is an amusing individuality about

them all, and an air of knowing mockery about most of them, even

those whose noses have been broken off. Moreover, these ancient

foxes have certain natural beauties which their modern

Tokyo kindred cannot show. Time has bestowed upon them

divers speckled coats of beautiful colours while they have been

sitting on their pedestals, listening to the ebbing and flowing

of the centuries and snickering weirdly at mankind. Their backs

are clad with finest green velvet of old mosses; their limbs are

spotted and their tails are tipped with the dead gold or the

dead silver of delicate fungi. And the places they most haunt

are the loveliest,--high shadowy groves where the _uguisu_ sings

in green twilight, above some voiceless shrine with its lamps

and its lions of stone so mossed as to seem things born of the

soil--like mushrooms.

It is difficult to define the Fox superstition, chiefly because it has

sprung from so many elements. The origin is Chinese, and in Japan it has

become mixed with the worship of a Shinto deity, and further enlarged

by the Buddhist belief of thaumaturgy and magic. The peasants worship

foxes because they fear them. But there are good foxes and bad ones. The

country holds legend after legend of goblin foxes and ghost foxes, and

foxes that take the form of human beings. Every Japanese child knows

some of them.

Seldom is a Japanese garden a flower-garden: it may not contain a

flower. It is a landscape garden, and its artistic purpose is to give

the impression of a real scene. Besides, it is supposed to express "a

mood in the soul." Such abstract ideas as Chastity, Faith, Connubial

Bliss were expressed by the old Buddhist monks who first brought the art

into Japan. Little hills, and slopes of green, tiny river-banks, and

little islands, together with trees, and stones, and flowering shrubs

are combined by the artist. All these things have their poetry and

legend, and sometimes have a special name signifying their position and

rank in the whole design.

In the ponds little creatures such as the frog and water-beetle live,

and they too have their legends. The children make all of these

creatures and the insects their playmates. Then there are the _semi_,

which are musicians, and lovely dragon-flies which skim over the ponds;

and back on the hill above the garden are many birds. It is not

necessary to have a garden outdoors, for there are indoor gardens too

which can even be put into a _koniwa_, the size of a fruit-dish.

The dead are never dead with the Japanese; they become even more

important members of the family, for the spirits of the dead control the

lives of the living. Each day there is some ceremony in memory of these

blessed dead; and no home is so poor but it has its household shrine.

And Shinto, ancestor-worship,

signifies character in the higher sense,--courage, courtesy,

honour, and above all things loyalty. The spirit of Shinto is

the spirit of filial piety, the zest of duty, the readiness to

surrender life for a principle without a thought of wherefore.

It is the docility of the child; it is the sweetness of the

Japanese woman. It is conservatism likewise; the wholesome check

upon the national tendency to cast away the worth of the entire

past in rash eagerness to assimilate too much of the foreign

present. It is religion,--but religion transformed into

hereditary moral impulse,--religion transmuted into ethical

instinct. It is the whole emotional life of the race,--the Soul

of Japan.

Self-sacrifice, loyalty, the deepest spirit of Shinto, is born with

the child. If you ask any Japanese student what his dearest wish is he

will surely answer,--"To die for His Majesty, our Emperor." It is

impossible in this limited space to give an adequate idea of all that

Shintoism implies.

The dressing of the hair is a very important part of a Japanese woman's

toilet. It is dressed once in every three days, and the task takes

probably two hours. The elaborateness of the coiffure changes with the

growing age of the maiden. But when she is twenty-eight, she is no

longer young, and so thereafter only one style is left, that worn by old

women. Of course, there are many superstitions about women's hair. It is

the Japanese woman's dearest possession, and she will undergo any

suffering not to lose it. At one time it was considered a fitting

vengeance to shear the hair of an erring wife, and then turn her away.

Only the greatest faith or the deepest love can prompt a woman

to the voluntary sacrifice of her entire _chevelure_, though

partial sacrifices, offerings of one or two long thick cuttings,

may be seen suspended before many an Izumo shrine.

What faith can do in the way of such sacrifice, he best knows

who has seen the great cables, woven of women's hair, that hang

in the vast Hongwanji temple at Kyoto. And love is stronger

than faith, though much less demonstrative. According to an

ancient custom a wife bereaved sacrifices a portion of her hair

to be placed in the coffin of her husband, and buried with him.

The quantity is not fixed: in the majority of cases it is very

small, so that the appearance of the coiffure is thereby no wise

affected. But she who resolves to remain for ever faithful to

the memory of the lost yields up all. With her own hand she cuts

off her hair, and lays the whole glossy sacrifice--emblem of her

youth and beauty--upon the knees of the dead.

It is never suffered to grow again.

The "Diary of a Teacher" gives a careful picture of the school-life in

Japan as Hearn finds it. At the Normal School, which is a state

institute, the young man student has no expenses. In return for these

kindnesses, when he graduates he serves as a teacher for five years.

Discipline is severe, and deportment is a demand. "A spirit of manliness

is cultivated, which excludes roughness but develops self-reliance and

self-control."

The silence of study hours is perfect, and without permission no head is

ever raised from a book.

The female department is in a separate building. Girls are taught the

European sciences, and are trained in all the Japanese arts, such as

embroidery, decoration, painting; and of course that most delicate of

arts--the arranging of flowers. Drawing is taught in all the schools. By

fifty per cent. do Japanese students excel the English students in

drawing.

There is also a large elementary school for little boys and girls

connected with the Normal School. These are taught by the students in

the graduating classes. Noteworthy is the spirit of peace prevailing at

the recesses that occur for ten minutes between each lesson. The boys

romp and shout and race, but never quarrel. Hearn says that among the

800 scholars whom he has taught, he has never even heard of a fight, nor

of any serious quarrel. The girls sing or play some gentle game, and the

teachers are kind and watchful of the smaller scholars. If a dress is

torn or soiled the child is cared for as carefully as if she were a

younger sister.

No teacher would ever think of striking a scholar. If he did so he would

at once have to give up his position. In fact, punishments are unknown.

"The spirit is rather reversed. In the Occident the master expels the

pupil. In Japan it happens quite as often that the pupil expels the

master."

It takes the Japanese student seven years to acquire the triple system

of ideographs, which is the alphabet of his native literature. He must

also be versed in the written and the spoken literature. He must study

foreign history, geography, arithmetic, astronomy, physics, geometry,

natural history, agriculture, chemistry, drawing.

Worst of all he must learn English,--a language of which the

difficulty to the Japanese cannot be even faintly imagined by

any one unfamiliar with the construction of the native

tongue,--a language so different from his own that the very

simplest Japanese phrase cannot be intelligibly rendered into

English by a literal translation of the words or even the form

of the thought.

And he studies all this upon the slimmest of diets, clad in thin clothes

in cold rooms. No wonder many fall by the way.

The students have been trained to find a moral in all things. If the

theme given to them for a composition is a native one, they will never

fail to find it. For instance,--a peony is very beautiful, but it has a

disagreeable odour; hence we should remember that "To be attracted by

beauty only may lead us into fearful and fatal misfortune." The sting of

the mosquito is useful, for "then we shall be bringed back to study."

There is nothing distinctive about the Japanese countenance, but there

is an intangible pleasantness that is common to all. Contrasted with

Occidental faces they seem "half-sketched." The outlines are very soft,

there is "neither aggressiveness nor shyness, neither eccentricity nor

sympathy, neither curiosity nor indifference.... But all are equally

characterized by a singular placidity,--expressing neither love nor

hate, nor anything save perfect repose and gentleness,--like the dreamy

placidity of Buddhist images." Later, these faces become individualized.

In another chapter Hearn tells of Two Festivals: one the festival of the

New Year; and the other, the Festival of Setsubun, which is the time for

the casting out of devils. On the eve of this latter festival, the

Yaku-otoshi, who is the caster-out of the demons, goes around, to any

houses that may desire his services, and performs his exorcism, for

which he receives a little fee. The rites consist of the recitation of

certain prayers, and the rattling of a _shakujo_. The _shakujo_ is

an odd-shaped staff. There is a tradition that it was first used by

Buddhist pilgrims to warn little creatures and insects to get out of the

way.

I quote from a French review for the description of one of Hearn's

stories:--

"But the most beautiful of all, 'A Dancing Girl,' is drawn from the

chronicles of that far-off past, from which, say what one may, he is

certainly wise in drawing his inspirations. It is the story of a

courtesan in love.

"At the height of her celebrity, this idol of a capital disappears from

public life, and nobody knows why. Leaving fortune behind, she flies

with a poor youth who loves her. They build for themselves a little

house in the mountains, and there exist apart from the world, one for

the other. But the lover dies one cold winter, and she remains alone,

with no other consolation than to dance for him every evening in the

deserted house. For he loved to see her dance, and he must still take

pleasure in it. Therefore, daily, she places on the memorial altar the

accustomed offerings, and at night she dances decked out in the same

finery as when she was the delight of a large city. And the day comes,

when old, decrepit, dying, reduced to beggary, she carries her superb

costume faded with time, to a painter who had seen her in the days of

her beauty, that he may accept it in exchange for a portrait made from

memory, which shall be placed before the altar always bearing offerings,

that her beloved may ever see her young, the most beautiful of the

_shirabyashi_, and that he may forgive her for not being able to dance

any more.

"This _shirabyashi_, from the distance of time, appears to us here,

clothed with I know not what of hieratical dignity, such as the modern

_geisha_ could never possess. Lafcadio Hearn in no wise pretends in the

pages he devotes to these latter, to idealize them beyond measure. They

appear under his pen as pretty animals somewhat dangerous; but is it not

their calling to be so? Whatever be the rank of the Japanese woman, he

only speaks of her with an extreme discretion, and with a caution that

one would look for in vain in the portrait of _Mme. Chrysantheme_. The

subtle voluptuousness of his style is never extended to the scenes he

reproduces; it is a style immaterial to a rare degree; he knows how to

make us understand what he means, without one word to infringe those

proprieties that are dear to the Japanese, even more than virtue itself.

And to believe him, the young, well-brought-up girl, the honest wife,

are in Japan the most perfect types of femininity that he has ever met

in any part of the world;--he, who has travelled so much. Opinions

formed superficially by globe-trotters on this subject that he scarcely

glances at because of respect, arouse as much indignation in him as

could they in the Japanese themselves. Evidently he has penetrated into

their inner life, into the mystery of their thoughts, into their hidden

springs of action, to the point of participating in their feelings."

(390.)

From Hoki to Oki there is much to learn about the landscapes of

Western and Central Japan; and Hearn gives many legends, and many more

impressions and intimate glimpses.

As there are only walls of thin paper separating the lives of these

Japanese people, no privacy can exist. Really everything is done in

public, even your thoughts must be known. And it never occurs to a

Japanese that there should be any reason for living unobserved. This

must show a rare moral condition, and is understood only by those who

appreciate the charm of the Japanese character, its goodness, and its

politeness.

No one endeavours to expand his own individuality by belittling

his fellow; no one tries to make himself appear a superior

being: any such attempt would be vain in a community where the

weaknesses of each are known to all, where nothing can be

concealed or disguised, and where affectation could only be

regarded as a mild form of insanity.

Hearn speaks of the strange public curiosity which his presence aroused

at Urago. It was not a rude curiosity; in fact, one so gentle that he

could not wish the gazers rebuked. But so insistent did it become that

he had to close his doors and windows to prevent his being watched while

he was asleep.

Kinjuro, the ancient gardener, knows a great many things about souls.

"No one is by the gods permitted to have more souls than nine."

Kinjuro also knows legends about ghosts and goblins.

An essay penetrating the very heart of the Japanese, is the chapter on

the "Japanese Smile." It crowns Hearn's work as a superb interpretation

of Japanese soul-life. This smile is the outward and visible sign of the

inward and spiritual grace of self-sacrifice. It is metaphysically and

psychologically exquisite. It is an etiquette which for generations has

been cultivated. It was a smile, _in origin_, however, demanded by hard

heathen gods of the victims they sacrificed; and, in history, it was

demanded of the subject race by the early conquerors. If refused, then

off came their heads! The smile is born with the Japanese child, and is

nurtured through all the growing years.

The smile is taught like the bow; like the prostration; like

that little sibilant sucking-in of the breath which follows, as

a token of pleasure, the salutation to a superior; like all the

elaborate and beautiful etiquette of the old courtesy.

The Japanese believe that one should always turn one's happiest face to

people. It is a wrong to cause them to share your sorrow or misfortune,

and so hurt or sadden them. One should never look serious. It is not

only unkind but extremely rude to show one's personal griefs or anger:

these feelings should always be hidden. Even though it is death one must

face, it is a duty to smile bravely.

It was with such a smile that the dying boy Shida wrote and pasted upon

the wall over his bed:--

Thou, my Lord-Soul, dost govern me. Thou knowest that I cannot

now govern myself. Deign, I pray thee, to let me be cured

speedily. Do not suffer me to speak much. Make me to obey in all

things the command of the physician.

This ninth day of the eleventh month of the twenty-fourth year

of Meiji.

From the sick body of Shida to his Soul.

The key to the mystery of the most unaccountable smiles is

Japanese politeness. The servant sentenced to dismissal for a

fault prostrates himself, and asks for pardon with a smile. That

smile indicates the very reverse of callousness or insolence:

"Be assured that I am satisfied with the great justice of your

honourable sentence, and that I am aware of the gravity of my

fault. Yet my sorrow and my necessity have caused me to indulge

the unreasonable hope that I may be forgiven for my great

rudeness in asking pardon." The youth or girl beyond the age of

childish tears when punished for some error, receives the

punishment with a smile which means: "No evil feeling arises in

my heart; much worse than this my fault has deserved."

This quality, which has become as natural to the Japanese as the very

breath of his body, is the sweet tonic-note of his whole character.

_Sayonara!_ Across the waters echoes the cry, _Manzai, Manzai!_ (Ten

thousand years to you! ten thousand years!). Hearn is leaving. He is

going far away. His pupils write expressing their sorrow and regret. He

sends them a letter thanking them for their gift of a beautiful sword,

and in a loving farewell says:--

May you always keep fresh within your hearts those impulses of

generosity and kindliness and loyalty which I have learned to

know so well, and of which your gift will ever remain for me the

graceful symbol!

And a symbol not only of your affection and loyalty as students

to teachers, but of that other beautiful sense of duty

expressed, when so many of you wrote down for me, as your

dearest wish, the desire to die for His Imperial Majesty, your

Emperor. That wish is holy: it means perhaps more than you know,

or can know, until you shall have become much older and wiser.

This is an era of great and rapid change; and it is probable

that many of you, as you grow up, will not be able to believe

everything that your fathers believed before you, though I

sincerely trust you will at least continue always to respect the

faith, even as you still respect the memory, of your ancestors.

But however much the life of New Japan may change about you,

however much your own thoughts may change with the times, never

suffer that noble wish you expressed to me to pass away from

your souls. Keep it burning there, clear and pure as the flame

of the little lamp that glows before your household shrine.

OUT OF THE EAST[31] (8), followed "Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan." The

charm of the first impression is waning.

[31] Copyright, 1895, by Lafcadio Hearn; and published by

Houghton, Mifflin and Company.

In a letter Hearn writes:--

Every day, it strikes me more and more how little I shall ever

know of the Japanese. I have been working hard at a new book,

which is now half finished, and consists of philosophical

sketches chiefly. It will be a very different book from the

"Glimpses," and will show you how much the Japanese world has

changed for me. I imagine that sympathy and friendship are

almost impossible for any foreigner to obtain,--because of the

amazing difference in the psychology of the two races. We only

guess at each other without understanding.

In another letter, speaking of the title for this book, he continues:--

It was suggested only by the motto of the Oriental Society, "_Ex

Oriente lux._" ... The simpler the title, and the vaguer--in my

case--the better: the vagueness touches curiosity. Besides, the

book is a vague thing.

The _Academy_, writing of "Out of the East," says:--

"Each book marks a longer step towards the Buddhist mysticism, wherein

we have lost our poet. 'The Stone Buddha,' in the first mentioned book,

is a dreamy dialogue between the wisdom of the West; Science, with her

theories of evolution, revolution and dissolution; Buddhism, with its

re-birth on re-rebirth; and Nirvana at the end. This thing also is

vanity. As there can be no end, so there can be no beginning; even Time

is an illusion, and there is nothing new beneath a hundred million

suns." (286.)

The old charm of word colour sparkles in "The Dream of a Summer Day."

Mile after mile I rolled along that shore, looking into the

infinite light. All was steeped in blue,--a marvellous blue,

like that which comes and goes in the heart of a great shell.

Glowing blue sea met hollow blue sky in a brightness of electric

fusion; and vast blue apparitions--the mountains of Higo--angled

up through the blaze, like masses of amethyst. What a blue

transparency! The universal colour was broken only by the

dazzling white of a few high summer clouds, motionlessly curled

above one phantom peak in the offing. They threw down upon the

water snowy tremulous lights. Midges or ships creeping far away

seemed to pull long threads after them,--the only sharp lines in

all that hazy glory. But what divine clouds! White purified

spirits of clouds, resting on their way to the beatitude of

Nirvana? Or perhaps the mists escaped from Urashima's box a

thousand years ago?

The gnat of the soul of me flitted out into that dream of blue,

'twixt sea and sun,--hummed back to the shore of Suminoye

through the luminous ghosts of fourteen hundred summers.

And Hearn tells with charm why "the mists escaped from Urashima's box a

thousand years ago," and also of the old, old woman who drank too deeply

of the magical waters of youth.

Reviewing the present volume, the _Spectator_ remarks:--

"The main drift of his books, however, is to bring into view not so much

the glories of Japanese sunlight or the charms of animate or inanimate

Nature, on which it falls, as the prevalence, at any rate in extensive

sections of Japanese society, of modes of thought and standards of

conduct which, though often widely apart from our own, demand the

respect of every candid Englishman. And certainly in this endeavour he

meets with a large measure of success. His account of the essays written

and the questions asked by the members of his class in English language

and literature at the Government college, or Higher Middle School, of

Kyushu, discloses not only what must be regarded as a very good

development of general intelligence among those young men, but a moral

tone which in many respects is quite as high, though with interesting

differences in point of view, as would be expected among English boys or

young men in the upper forms of our great public-schools or at the

Universities. Of course, what boys or young men write for or say to

their masters and tutors cannot by any means always be taken as sure

evidence of their inner feelings or of the character of their daily

life. But, so far as one can judge, Hearn's pupils appear to have given

him their confidence, and what he tells us of them may therefore

reasonably be taken without much discount. It certainly illustrates an

attractive simplicity of character and thought, not untouched by poetic

imagination, together with a high development of family affection and

strong sense of family duty, and also a remarkably high level of

patriotic feeling. This spirit is apparently inherited from the old

military class of the island of Kyushu, and it is not surprising

to hear that rich men at a distance are keen to give their sons the

opportunity of acquiring the Kyushu 'tone.' Towards the close of

his book Mr. Hearn gives an extremely interesting account of a farewell

visit paid him in the autumn of 1894 by an old pupil who had entered the

army after leaving college, and had been placed, at his own request, in

one of the divisions ordered for service in Corea:--

"And now I am so glad," he exclaimed, his face radiant with a

soldier's joy, "we go to-morrow." Then he blushed again, as if

ashamed of having uttered his frank delight. I thought of

Carlyle's deep saying, that never pleasures, but only suffering;

and death are the lures that draw true hearts. I thought

also--what I could not say to any Japanese--that the joy in the

lad's eyes was like nothing I had ever seen before, except the

caress in the eyes of a lover on the morning of his bridal.

"A beautiful thought, the reader will agree; but why could it not be

uttered to a Japanese? A good deal will be found on this subject in Mr.

Hearn's book, and, as we have indicated, we do not think it all holds

together. His class of students, we learn, professed to think it 'very,

very strange' that there should be so much in English novels about love

and marrying; and then he tells us that--

Any social system of which filial piety is not the moral cement;

any social system in which children leave their parents in order

to establish families of their own; any social system in which

it is considered not only natural but right to love wife and

child more than the authors of one's being; any social system in

which marriage can be decided independently of the will of the

parents by the mutual inclination of the young people themselves

... appears, to the Japanese student of necessity a state of

life scarcely better than that of the birds of the air and the

beasts of the field, or at best a sort of moral chaos.

"Now, of course, it is known here that in Japan, as in other Oriental

countries, it is a rule for marriages to be family arrangements, as

regards which it is expected that the young persons will conform to the

wishes of their respective parents.

* * * * *

"But of course some inconsistencies are to be expected from an author

enamoured of the whole country. He is very Buddhist, and is anxious to

show that Buddhists have always held, in matters of faith, something

very like the doctrines of modern science with regard to the perpetual

sequence of evolution and dissolution. On this subject he argues

cleverly and effectively; but when, by implication or expressly, he

compares Buddhism with Christianity, it is evident that the latter faith

has not received any very close study from him. None the less is his

book, though dominated by a somewhat uncritical enthusiasm, full of

interest and instruction as to the difference between the gifts, the

motives, and the mental and moral attitude of the Japanese and the

peoples of the West, ourselves in particular. It is well worth while to

study that remarkable people as they are seen by one who is so much

captivated by them, and believes in them so strongly, as Mr. Lafcadio

Hearn." (380.)

The _Athenaeum_ does not speak so cordially, and a review in the

_Atlantic Monthly_ says:--

"Mr. Hearn is not at his best as a metaphysician.... But we can forgive

him in that he stands forth a staunch champion, defying the West from

the heart of the Japanese people. He does this most clearly in his

finest essay, 'Jiujutsu.' Here the very meaning of the martial exercise,

to 'conquer by yielding' is taken as text to explain the phenomena or

national awakening which foreign cities have denounced as a 'reversal.'

Japan has borrowed weapons of force from the West, in order successfully

to resist its insidious influence. True progress is from within. Mr.

Hearn writes:--

However psychologists may theorize on the absence or the

limitations of personal individuality among the Japanese, there

can be no question at all that, as a nation, Japan possesses an

individuality stronger than our own." (306.)

Concerning Lafcadio Hearn; With a Bibliography by Laura Stedman · 第 12 / 14 章