CHAPTER V.

RAINY SEASON AT KOUKA.

The sheikh gave us an interview in his garden this afternoon:

the lemon and fig trees exhibited some fruit, the appearance of

which was gratifying. Knowing we had news from England, he asked

several questions about the Morea, where the Greeks and Turks had

been fighting. He had read some account of the former splendour of

that country, and he was pleased with some of the corroborations we

gave him of their truth. He again started the subject of the shape

of the globe, and wished to be acquainted with the method in which

its shape had been ascertained: some of his books, he said, made it

square. A phosphorus box, which had been brought him from Tripoli,

and of which he knew not the use, was now produced, and on the match

coming out lighted, himself and all the spectators were delighted

beyond measure. I was this morning going on a hunting excursion to

the Tchad with some Shouaas of Beni Hassan, but as it was Sunday

I postponed my sport: they however went, and brought back a very

young elephant, not more than two feet and a half high, and yet so

powerful, that three men were obliged to hold him for the purpose

of pouring a little milk down his throat. Achmet-ben-Sheneen,

an Arab of Augela, a wretched sufferer, came constantly to the

Doctor for medicine; and on seeing him we could not refrain from

blessing God’s providence in our misery, for sparing us from such

afflictions as had fallen upon him. Nearly two years before, in an

action with La Sala Shouaas, whom the sheikh conquered, this poor

fellow had received three dreadful wounds; one in the head, which

had left a deep scar; another in the arm, which, as the spear was

poisoned, had never healed, but was still an open wound, extending

several inches from the elbow downwards; and in the third, the spear

had gone in at his mouth as he lay on the ground, and carrying away

part of the jaw and teeth, had penetrated quite through his cheek. A

short time after his return from the expedition, he was seized with

what the Doctor called the Greek leprosy, covering great part of his

body with a foul black eruption, and from which he was now suffering,

accompanied by an irritation almost insupportable.

Doctor Oudney and Hillman were now both too ill to join us at meal

times; the heat of the day, and dampness of the evenings, affected us

all greatly. I used, notwithstanding, to go out in the morning and

shoot a couple of ducks or a goose, which helped us out at dinner,

although they were dreadfully tough and fishy. The country was now

assuming a more interesting appearance from the crops of gussub

that had sprung up all round Kouka, on which the slaves of all the

inhabitants had been busily employed during the last month, as they

sow at the commencement of the rainy season.

In a country where so little is cultivated, there is always an

abundant choice of land; and a planter takes possession of any spot

that has not been occupied the preceding year, and it then becomes

exclusively his property. In two months from the time of sowing they

gather the harvest, and this is the only labour of the year.

We had a curious trial this morning before the sheikh, the result of

which furnishes a singular proof of his simplicity and submission to

the word of the Prophet. The circumstances were these: a Shouaa had

stabbed a man the night before, upon some disagreement, and death

was the consequence. The brother of the defunct demanded blood,

and on application to the kadi, it came out in evidence that the

Shouaa had desired the deceased to quit his door, three several

times, if he had any faith in the Prophet; but he still continued

to resist, and aggravate him, till at last he stabbed him in six

places. The kadi’s decision was, that upon so solemn a caution,

the unfortunate man should have retired;—that his not doing so was a

proof he had no faith in the Prophet; was a Kafir, and was the cause

of his own death, and therefore that the murderer should not suffer

punishment. The accuser, however, appealed to the sheikh, who told

him, that, certainly, by God’s law, communicated to the Prophet,

and written in the _g’tab_ (the book), an eye for an eye, a tooth

for a tooth, and life for life, should be given—but recommended his

taking a fine instead of blood. The sturdy Arab, however, was unmoved,

and called loudly for justice; and the sheikh then said, he had the

law in his own hands, and he might do as he pleased. The prisoner was

then taken outside of the walls, and the brother of the deceased beat

his brains out with an iron-headed club, which the Shouaas sometimes

carry. This was considered a very extraordinary occurrence in Bornou.

I continued to work at the Arabic and Bornou languages; and, besides

this, I usually visited Barca Gana two or three times a week, and

sometimes he came to me, so that my time rarely hung heavy on my

hands; but he always came mounted, and with so many attendants,

that my little hut was put in disorder for the whole day after. I

believe he entered no person’s habitation in the town but my own,

except the sheikh’s. No great man here ever visits his inferior,

or moves from his own house to the sheikh’s, without a retinue

agreeable to his rank; and the kashella, on remonstrating with me for

coming through the streets alone, was surprised when I told him that

even our king did the same; and, often habited like his subjects,

rode attended only by a single servant. Convinced as he was before

of his importance, this astonished him greatly. “Why,” said he,

“were the sheikh to do so, nobody would respect him:”—and

replied I, “in England the oftener the king does this the more he

is both loved and respected.”

Two decisions of the sheikh lately had created a considerable emotion

amongst the people. The slave of one man had been caught with the wife

of another, a free man, and the injured husband demanded justice. The

sheikh condemned both the man and the woman to be hanged side by

side: the owner of the slave, however, remonstrated, and said that

the decision, as far as respected the woman, was just; for she was

always endeavouring to seduce his slave from his work, and that if he

(the sheikh) condemned his slave to death, the man, whose wife was

the cause of it, ought to give him the value of his slave, as he was

poor: this the husband objected to. “Ah!” exclaimed the sheikh,

“how often is a man driven to his destruction by woman; yet of

all his happiness, she is the root, or the branch.” He himself

paid the value of the slave to the owner, and the next morning the

guilty pair were suspended outside the walls.

August 8.—Last night a man brought a large bird, called oubara,

a smaller species of which the bashaw’s sons hunt daily, in the

neighbourhood of Tripoli, with their hawks: this was exceedingly

large, weighing as much as twelve pounds; and we gave him about

two shillings for his present, in coarse cloth (gubbuk); and

before breakfast this morning, he brought another still larger;

but finding we had spoiled the market, for this I only gave him half

as much. These birds are peculiar for the brilliancy of their large

eyes, which exceeds that of the gazelle[34], and the flesh very much

resembles our pheasants in flavour.

In these southern climes, all matters of business, as well as

pleasure, are transacted before the generality of people in England

have well finished their night’s rest, and this morning I rode

out by daylight to see the ceremony of a Bornou wedding. The lady

was from Angornou; and the bridegroom’s friends, to the number of

twenty or thirty, all mounted and in their best clothes, went to give

her welcome: she was mounted on a bullock, whose back was covered

with blue and white turkadees, and followed by four female slaves,

laden with straw baskets, wooden bowls, and earthen pots; while

two other bullocks carried the rest of the dowry, which consisted

of a certain number of turkadees and tobes. She was attended by her

mother, and five or six young ladies, who acted as bride’s maids. We

galloped up to them repeatedly, which is the mode of salutation. The

women cover their faces, and scream their thanks; the men, however,

wheel their horses quickly, and return with their eyes cast to the

ground, it being considered as extremely indelicate for them to look

upon the bride. The lady, after this, proceeds to the bridegroom’s

house with her mother, and there remains shut up until the evening,

when she is handed over to her justly impatient lord: for the whole

day he is obliged to parade the streets with a crowd after him,

or sit on a raised seat, _à la sultan_, in his house, dressed in

all the finery he can either borrow or buy; while the people crowd

in upon him, blowing horns, beating drums, and crying “_Engouboron

degah! Alla Kabunsho! Alla Kiara!_” “May you live for ever! God

prosper you! Grey hairs to you!” to all which he makes no answer;

but looks more foolish than one could suppose it possible for any

man in so enviable a situation as that of a bridegroom to do.

August 11.—The sheikh sent this morning to say, that, as we

mentioned yesterday the state of our funds, any money that we stood

in need of he would immediately furnish us with—that while we were

under his protection, we should want for nothing: we, however, said

with every feeling of gratitude, that, as we were not quite pennyless,

we would wait a few days, until all the people arrived from Soudan.

It is quite impossible to describe the value of his kindness to us

on all occasions; and this last proof of his liberality to poor

wanderers, whose country he scarcely knew the name of before our

arrival, surpassed all we could have expected. Knowing us through

the medium of the bashaw of Tripoli only, his disinterested conduct

could have been alone the dictation of a generous confidence; and

his own penetration and sagacity had long since convinced him of

the perfect innocence of our intentions in visiting his country,

notwithstanding the injurious reports to the contrary, which had been

communicated to his subjects, through the ill will or ignorance of

some of the Fezzan merchants: he had sent me apparel from his own

house on hearing the news of my forlorn state, after escaping out

of the hands of the Felatahs, and had astonished the people about

him by his exclamations of sorrow on the first report reaching him

of my death. Kaffir as they thought me, he mentioned my escape in

his letter to Barca Gana—which met us on our return—as a proof

of the protection of God’s providence, in a manner which made a

visible alteration in the conduct, not only of the chief, but of

the whole army, towards me; and every part of his conduct tended

to convince us, that his protection and confidence proceeded more

from the opinions he had formed of the grandeur and generosity of

the English nation (and, we were willing to flatter ourselves, from

his approbation of our conduct), than from any hope of repayment or

remuneration from his ally the bashaw.

The constant sickness of Doctor Oudney, who, nearly ever since

our return from Munga, had been confined to his hut;—Hillman’s

frequent attacks of ague and delirium, and the uncertainty as to

the manner in which any supplies were to be obtained, to enable

us either to proceed or return, tended but little to keep up our

spirits;—my eyes had for some months been too weak to allow of my

reading in the evening, or, indeed, of bearing the light in the hut

for any length of time together; and we separated, from a mutual

repugnance to conversation, from the dreariness of our prospects,

almost immediately after our evening meal.

We had frequent and violent showers of rain, with thunder, and

most vivid lightning; the waters covered the face of the country

in extensive lakes, and our excursions in search of game were now

confined to the immediate neighbourhood of our residence. The gussub

had increased in height greatly; and, at this season of the year,

there are other reasons besides the falls of rain which induce people

to remain in their habitations—when the great lake overflows the

immense district which, in the dry season, affords cover and food by

its coarse grass and jungle to the numerous savage animals with which

Bornou abounds, they are driven from these wilds, and take refuge in

the standing corn, and sometimes in the immediate neighbourhood of

the towns. Elephants had already been seen at Dowergoo, scarcely six

miles from Kouka; and a female slave, while she was returning home

from weeding the corn to Kowa, not more than ten miles distant, had

been carried off by a lioness: the hyænas, which are every where in

legions, grew now so extremely ravenous, that a good large village,

where I sometimes procured a draught of sour milk on my duck-shooting

excursions, had been attacked the night before my last visit, the

town absolutely carried by storm, notwithstanding defences nearly

six feet high of branches of the prickly tulloh, and two donkies,

whose flesh these animals are particularly fond of, carried off in

spite of the efforts of the people. We constantly heard them close

to the walls of our own town at nights, and on a gate being left

partly open, they would enter, and carry off any unfortunate animal

that they could find in the streets.

There are a particular class of female slaves here, to whom the

duty of watching and labouring in the fields of grain is always

allotted. I have before said, that all laborious work is performed

by that sex we consider as the weakest, and whom we employ in the

more domestic duties only—and it is to them this perilous work

is assigned. The female slaves from Musgow, a description of whom

I have somewhere else given, are never bought by the Tripoli or

Fezzan traders: their features, naturally large and ugly, are so

much disfigured by the silver stud which they wear in the under lip,

that no purchaser would be found for them; besides the loss of the

two front teeth, which are punched out to make way for the silver

which goes quite through into their mouths, the weight of the metal,

after a year or two, drags the lip down so as to make it quite lie

on the chin, and gives a really frightful appearance to the face:

these poor creatures, therefore, who are generally of a strong make,

and patient under their sufferings, guard the crops, and collect

the harvest, and a year seldom passes without several of them being

snatched away by the lions, who, crouching under cover of the ripening

corn, spring on their prey and bear it off.

August 18.—The twelfth day of the new moon, which was the 17th of

the month, was a day of general feasting and rejoicing. Garments,

according to the estimation in which the giver holds the receiver, are

distributed by all great people to their followers: the sheikh gave

away upwards of a thousand tobes, and as many bullocks and sheep. It

is the custom, on the morning of the Aid-Kebir[35], for the sovereign

with his suite to mount, and, after praying at a certain distance

from the town, to return to it with all his people skirmishing before

him. The sheikh had been suffering from an attack of the ague, and,

therefore, this ceremony did not take place; the people, however,

drew bad omens from the circumstance, and said, that the sheikh not

having mounted and prayed with his people was not right.

On the day after, the sheikh sent us word that Hadgi Ali Boo-Khaloom

was on his way from Kano, and within two or three days of Kouka:

this was the most gratifying intelligence that could have reached us,

as our funds were all but exhausted, and we lived entirely on the

provisions furnished us by the sheikh, with the exception of a little

milk and a few fowls, which we purchased. On the 21st he arrived,

and very much altered in appearance for the worse, as well as most of

the people who had accompanied him; the Fezzaneers had all suffered

exceedingly from the ague and fever, which disorders had carried

off a greater number of the Fezzan and Tripoli merchants than any

preceding year. The sheikh appeared pleased at Hadgi Ali’s return,

said he hoped all would be now soon arranged, and that the courier

from Tripoli would not long delay making his appearance; he had

calculated upon his returning by the Aid-Kebir, and his non-arrival

gave him uneasiness on many accounts. Private information, it was

said, had by several channels reached the sheikh, that the bashaw had

it in contemplation to send an expedition for the purpose of taking

possession of Bornou, under the joint command of Mukni the late,

and Mustapha the present, sultan of Fezzan: this intelligence was

also accompanied by an assurance, that while the English remained he

was safe. Scarcely any line of policy could be more injurious to the

interests of the bashaw of Tripoli, or his subjects, than a measure

of this nature. He obtained slaves almost exclusively through the

medium of the sheikh’s territory, which, since he had held the

reins of government, was sufficiently safe for travellers, to induce

merchants with large capitals for this country to proceed by way

of Bornou to Soudan. The numbers of kafilas between that country

and Fezzan had, within the last five years, greatly exceeded any

former period; and in an equal proportion did the respectability of

those traders who now accompanied them exceed that of the merchants

previously in the habit of passing through Bornou. By an intercourse

with these travellers, a great variety of merchandise was brought

into the interior—the ideas of the natives became enlarged, and,

consequently, their desires increased. Trade was, in fact, but just

beginning to be prosecuted with vigour by the inhabitants of eastern

Soudan. European goods of all descriptions, used by the Soudanees,

were becoming every day in greater request, and the whole of their

country might, by the bashaw’s constantly keeping up an amicable

understanding with the sheikh, have been supplied exclusively by

the Tripoli merchants.

With a knowledge of these facts, it was almost impossible to believe

that the reports of the bashaw of Tripoli’s intended expedition

could have any real foundation; yet the report, credited as it was

by the majority of the Bornou people, was of itself sufficient to

excite in us excessive alarm, both for our own safety, as well as for

the success of our mission. The sheikh caused it to be understood,

both here and at Angornou, that the kafila, about to leave Kouka for

Fezzan, would be the last in the present state of affairs; at the same

time, he relaxed nothing of his personal kindness and attention to us.

The violent rains and stormy nights continued, as did our sickness and

loss of appetite. Hillman and myself were suffering constantly from

a prickly heat upon the skin, which was almost insufferable during

the day, and prevented our sleeping at night. All the quadrupeds,

as well as bipeds, transplanted from the countries bordering upon

the great ocean, appeared to suffer alike. Within the last ten days,

three of our camels, Doctor Oudney’s mule and his horse, the last

of our Tripoli animals but one, had died, and the remaining three

camels, out of the nineteen we brought here, were turned into the

inclosure to take their chance, while the man was discharged who

had hitherto been paid for taking care of them.

August 27.—These things were cheerless and discouraging indeed. We

had still excessive rains; and notwithstanding the great power of

the sun for some hours in the middle of the day, so damp was the air,

that for several days together my blankets were never dry, the rain

always coming through the roof of the _cousie_ (hut) at night.

I had been for some time waiting for a favourable day to accompany

two or three Shouaas of Tirab to the Tchad, in search of buffalos:

they went several times, and usually killed one, although I never

could persuade them to bring me the head: some of the meat, and a

piece of the skin, was all they would load their horses with for so

many miles. Their manner of killing these animals is curious, and

rather perilous—they chase them in the swamps, where they now feed,

in preference to nearer the lake, and as their horses are trained

so as to go quite close to them as they run, the rider is enabled

to get his foot well fixed on the buffalo’s back: with singular

skill, he then strikes, just behind the animal’s shoulder, one or

two spears, if he can place them; pierced with these, the animal is

able to run but a short distance, then, with the assistance of his

companion, but frequently alone, he dismounts and despatches his prey:

it sometimes happens, that the buffalo, by quickly turning his head

before they strike, oversets both horse and rider. A Shouaa friend

of mine had his horse completely ripped open, and killed on the spot,

only a few days since, by the sudden twist which the animal gave his

head, catching the horse with his pointed horn. Yesterday I was again

disappointed, from the badness of the weather: three Shouaas went,

and narrowly escaped being caught by the Biddomahs—as two hundred

boats made their appearance at different places on the banks of the

Tchad, carrying from ten to fifteen men each, and the sportsmen

were very nearly caught by the crews of two that came near the

town of Koua. News came in this morning that they had carried off

upwards of thirty persons from the neighbourhood of Woodie, and

amongst them the nephew of the _sheikh-el-Blad_ (governor of the

town). On these occasions, when any person of rank gets into their

hands, they demand a ransom of from two to three thousand bullocks,

or a proportionate number of slaves. No sultan has any power over

these islanders; they will pay no tribute to any one, nor submit

to any prescribed government: some of them lately paid a visit to

the sheikh, and although they brought him only a few slaves, that

they had stolen from the Begharmi side of the water, yet he received

them kindly, and gave them fine tobes and red caps. Their visit was

principally to see if the reports of the sheikh’s power were true;

but notwithstanding their kind reception, on returning they carried

off three girls from within ten miles of Kouka. These islands lie on

the eastern side of the Tchad, and on embarking from the west, they

described the voyage as five days of open sea previous to arriving

at the islands, which are numerous; the two largest are named Koorie

and Sayah. They have a language of their own, although resembling

that of Kanem. Their arms are spears and shields, and they fight

with every body around them, Waday, Begharmi, and Bornou. They

believe in a divine power, which rules every thing, but are not

Musselmans. They have a strong arm, they say, and a cunning head,

instead of a large country, and much cattle; therefore they must

take from those who are richer than themselves. The Bornou people

say, “the waters are theirs; what can we do?” It is said they

have nearly one thousand large canoes. They are not a sanguinary or

cruel people; and when prisoners are taken in battle and wounded,

they do not kill, but cure them; and if no ransom is offered, they

give them wives, and they remain as free as themselves.

Aug. 30.—Hadgi Ali Boo-Khaloom had been now returned more than a

week, and nothing satisfactory had ever been extracted from him as

to the money left in his brother’s hands. I had great fears of his

honesty from the first, and urged the necessity of our taking some

decided measures with him. We accordingly summoned him to appear

before the sheikh; the result of which was, our failure for want

of sufficient documents, and the tergiversation of the Arabs. The

official document of this trial, translated from the Arabic, will

be found in the Appendix.

We received visits of condolence from several of our Bornou friends,

who were all extravagant in their abuse of Hadgi Ali. “Are these

your Mourzuk friends,” said they, “who were to assist you with

every thing? Why, this is robbing you. However, they called God to

witness to a lie, and they will die soon: only wait a day or two.”

Sept. 1.—Dr. Oudney now cupped himself on the chest for the second

time, and found some little relief. Feeling that our situation

required an appearance of spirit and determination, I sent for Abdal

Wahad, an Arab of Zehren, distantly related to Boo-Khaloom, and to

whom, on two occasions of distress, I had been kind, and upbraided

him with his falsehood and ingratitude; nor was my remonstrance

altogether without effect. He acknowledged that “his heart had

been too big for his stomach ever since he left the palace: that

his eyes had been dim, and he had enjoyed no rest; for,” said he,

“I swore to myself to be as faithful to you as to a brother!”

“All this is very fine,” said I; “but what proof will you

give of this remorse?” “Every proof,” he replied; “Hadgi Ali

will come this very day and acknowledge the debt—that must be the

consequence. I have been to the sheikh, and said how you had assisted

me; and that I had sworn, and could not see you wronged.” Even as

Abdal Wahad predicted, so it happened. Karouash came in the course

of the day to say that Abdal Wahad had been at his house, and told

him the debt was just, and that he had reported the conversation to

the sheikh. The sheikh’s answer was, “He is quite right; after

what the rais Khaleel said, every one would have known where the

justice lay; for the English have not many words, but they are true;

and the Arabs, you know, will lie a little (_kidip shouie shouie_).”

In the evening Hadgi Ali came himself; he made, however, but a

blundering excuse, saying he had never inquired into it—did not

even know whether we gave any money or not to Boo-Khaloom; but that

now he knew, and God forbid he should ever be otherwise than friendly

with the English, and that not only two, but five thousand dollars

were at our service. All this, however, ended in his begging us to

wait until he had sent off his kafila to Mourzuk, and that then he

would try to give us eight hundred or one thousand dollars in tobes,

or gubbuk[36], for not ten dollars in money had he; and the rest he

hoped we would wait for, until he sent to Soudan. Unsatisfactory as

this was, we thought it better not to make objections, merely saying

that we were without money, and begging that he would settle it as

soon as he possibly could.

Mr. Clapperton was again seized with fever, so violent as to give us

all great uneasiness, and render him delirious for twenty-four hours;

and from an idea that the disorder was infectious, the Bornou people

could scarcely be persuaded to come near our huts. Doctor Oudney each

day became weaker and weaker; Hillman was gaining a little strength:

while I might be considered as the best of the party, although often

suffering from headaches, and pains in the chest, with what gave me

more uneasiness than all, increasing dimness of sight. I, however,

kept up my spirits, visited Barca Gana and Mai Meigamy, nearly every

day; and found amusement in entering into all their troubles and

fears lest the bashaw should send a ghrazzie into the country.

Since the feast day of the Aid Kebir there had been on an evening

an assembly of persons before the sheikh’s gate; when the most

athletic and active of the slaves came out and wrestled in the

presence of their masters, and the sheikh himself, who usually

took his post at a little window over the principal gate of the

palace. Barca Gana, Ali Gana, Wormah, Tirab, and all the chiefs,

were usually seated on mats in the inner ring, and I generally

took my place beside them. Quickness and main strength were

the qualifications which ensured victory: they struggled with a

bitterness which could scarcely have been exceeded in the armed

contests of the Roman gladiators, and which was greatly augmented

by the voices of their masters, urging them to the most strenuous

exertion of their powers. A rude trumpet, of the buffalo’s horn,

sounded to the attack; and the combatants entered the arena naked,

with the exception of a leathern girdle about the loins; and those

who had been victorious on former occasions were received with loud

acclamations by the spectators. Slaves of all nations were first

matched against each other; of these the natives of Soudan were the

least powerful, and seldom victors. The most arduous struggles were

between the Musgowy and the Begharmi negroes: some of these slaves,

and particularly the latter, were beautifully formed, and of gigantic

stature; but the feats of the day always closed by the matching of

two Begharmis against each other—and dislocated limbs, or death,

were often the consequence of these kindred encounters. They commence

by placing their hands on each other’s shoulders; of their feet

they make no use, but frequently stoop down, and practise a hundred

deceptions to throw the adversary off his guard; when the other will

seize his antagonist by the hips, and after holding him in the air,

dash him against the ground with stunning violence, where he lies

covered with blood, and unable to pursue the contest. A conqueror of

this kind is greeted by loud shouts, and several vests will be thrown

to him by the spectators; and, on kneeling at his master’s feet,

which always concludes the triumph, he is often habited by the slaves

near his lord in a tobe of the value of thirty or forty dollars;

or, what is esteemed as a still higher mark of favour, one of the

tobes worn by his chief is taken off, and thrown on the back of the

conqueror. I have seen them foam and bleed at the mouth and nose

from pure rage and exertion, their owners all the time vying with

each other in using expressions most likely to excite their fury:

one chief will draw a pistol, and swear by the Koran that his slave

shall not survive an instant his defeat, and, with the same breath,

offer him great rewards if he conquers. Both of these promises are

sometimes too faithfully kept; and one poor wretch, who had withstood

the attacks of a ponderous negro, much more than his match, from

some country to the south of Mandara, for more than fifty minutes,

turned his eye reproachfully on his threatening master, only for

an instant; when his antagonist slipped his hands down from the

shoulders to the loins, and by a sudden twist raised his knee to his

chest, and fell with his whole weight on the poor slave (who was from

Soudan), snapping his spine in the fall. Former feats are considered

as nothing after one failure; and a slave, that a hundred dollars

would not purchase to-day, is, after a defeat, sold at the fsug,

maimed as he is, for a few dollars, to any one who will purchase him.

The skin of a noble lion was sent me by the sheikh, which had been

taken near Kabshary, measuring from the tail to the nose fourteen feet

two inches. He had devoured four slaves, and was at last taken by the

following stratagem: the inhabitants assembled together, and with loud

cries and noises drove him from the place where he had last feasted;

they then dug a very deep blaqua, or circular hole, armed with sharp

pointed stakes; this they most cunningly covered over with stalks of

the gussub; a bundle of straw, enveloped in a tobe, was laid over the

spot, to which a gentle motion, like that of a man turning in sleep,

was occasionally given by means of a line carried to some distance. On

their quitting the spot, and the noise ceasing, the lion returned

to his haunt, and was observed watching his trap for seven or eight

hours—by degrees approaching closer and closer,—and at length he

made a dreadful spring on his supposed prey, and was precipitated

to the bottom of the pit. The Kabsharians now rushed to the spot,

and before he could recover himself, despatched him with their spears.

Mr. Clapperton’s illness had increased to an alarming height:

he had upwards of twenty-four hours’ fever, and delirium without

cessation. These attacks, just about the time the rainy season is

at an end, are very prevalent, and often fatal to the white people

from the sea, as the Arabs are called. How much more violently must

they effect the natives of more temperate lands?

Mr. Hillman was again assailed by ague, and disordered intellect,

which threw him back into his former state of weakness. For two days

out of the last three, I had alone appeared at our mess bench for the

evening meal. Two of my companions were quite delirious in bed; and

Dr. Oudney, who had for a month taken nothing but a little sour milk,

three times a day, never left his hut except from necessity. These

were very trying moments, and sufficient to destroy the appetite of

a more healthy person than myself: still I had much to be thankful

for, and I endeavoured to bless God, and ate with cheerfulness.

We had now been five days without rain; the thermometer was as

high as 89° in the middle of the day in the shade, and we began

to think summer was again coming. It may appear incredible, that

with such a temperature we should wish for an increase of heat;

but the dampness of the atmosphere, and the millions of flies and

musquitoes, beyond all conception, that accompanied it, rendered it

almost impossible to enjoy any thing like repose, either by day or

night. The annoyance of these insects I had experienced at Lisbon,

Naples, and in the other parts of Italy and Sicily, but neither in

numbers, nor in peace-disturbing powers, were they to be compared

with these. Towards the evening, a fire in the hut, made of damp

straw and weeds, was sometimes the means of procuring a few hours’

tranquillity; but the remedy was in itself so disagreeable, that

it was only resorted to in despair: a fire of this kind, however,

seldom fails to expel the intruders, from the thick and suffocating

vapours which arise from it.

The horses also suffered dreadfully from the same annoyance; and

to keep them from injuring themselves, wherever they can reach with

their teeth, the negroes are obliged to keep a fire the greater part

of the day, particularly at the hours of feeding, close to their

heads; and notwithstanding the natural dislike those animals have

to flames and smoke, they will hang their heads over the fire, so

as to suffer themselves to be all but scorched, in order to obtain

a little rest from their persecutors. Of scorpions we had seen but

few, but the white and black ants were like the sands in number: the

white ones made their way into every trunk, of whatever sort of wood

they were made, as if it had been paper. And on the late expedition,

during a halt of three days, in a spot where they were more than

usually numerous, a mat and a carpet on which I slept were completely

destroyed by them. They tell a story of an Arab having lain down to

sleep near old Birnie, just over a nest of these destructive insects,

covered up in a barracan, and that in the morning he found himself

quite naked, his covering having been eaten to the last thread. The

wooden supports of a sort of shade which I had erected in the front of

my hut, in a little more than three months these destructive insects

had perforated with so many millions of holes, as to reduce it to

a powder, and a new one was obliged to be placed in its room. The

black ant was no less persevering in attacks upon our persons; her

bite was nearly as bad as a scorpion, and so sharp as to excite an

involuntary exclamation from the sufferer; indeed, for weeks together,

my skin had, from these insects alone, more resembled that of a person

afflicted with the measle than any thing else that I can compare it

to. Oil, unfortunately, we had none, which is both a preventive and

a cure; the only substitute I could obtain was a little fat rubbed

over the body, and this seldom failed of giving me relief.

The kafila for Mourzuk left Kouka on the 13th: several Arabs, who

had determined on remaining here some time, took their departure

in consequence of their fears of the bashaw’s visit. Nothing had

arrived, and, in the absence of authentic intelligence, all was alarm

and confusion, and reports of every kind arose: they said the kafila,

which had been expected more than two months, could not be delayed

from any other cause than the hostile intentions of the sultan:

trusty persons were accordingly stationed at the commencement of the

desert to give the earliest information of any thing approaching,

and no assurances of ours had the least effect in calming the fears

of the natives.

Mr. Clapperton’s illness increased; and one night, while all were

asleep, he made his way to the hut where the only servant slept who

was not sick, begging for water; his inside, he said, was burning;

the delirium had just then left him; he was too weak to return to his

hut without the assistance of Columbus, who supported him in his arms;

he was still dangerously ill; and four persons of our establishment,

besides Doctor Oudney, were confined to their beds at this time with

this same disorder: the symptoms of all were similar.

Sep. 25.—After a most restless night, I rose by daylight, and

taking my old negro, Barca, rode in the direction of Dowergoo. The

harvest was abundant, and they had already begun to lop off the heads

of the long gussub: the tamarind trees, which lose all their leaves

at the commencement of the rains, were budding with great beauty,

and had a bright carnation colour; the waters had already decreased

very considerably; and the season appeared highly favourable for an

expedition in some previously untrodden path: every thing else was,

however, against the attempt; for, added to our poverty, I was the

only one of our party capable of mounting a horse. On my return I

visited my patients, for Doctor Oudney could not move from his hut;

and the small-pox raged amongst the slaves of two of our friends,

added to the fever of the season. Out of twelve slaves who were

seized, two had died; and the only child of Mohamed-el-Wordy had

now taken it from his slave. They are not ignorant of inoculation,

and it is performed nearly in the same manner as amongst ourselves,

by inserting the sharp point of the dagger, charged with the disease;

they never give any medicine, but merely roll the invalid in a

barracan, and lay him in a corner of the hut until the disorder

takes a turn.

The castor tree is found in this neighbourhood, and is commonly used

as a medicine. There is also another tree, of which they either chew

the blossom or steep it in water, which has the effect of an emetic.

The weather continued to improve upon us, though the heat increased;

and some days the thermometer was at 97° and 98°, but we had

fewer mosquitoes, and a clearer atmosphere. Doctor Oudney had been

violently attacked, first in his right, and then in his left eye,

with an inflammation, which left him no rest by day or night;

he, however, within the last two days, got out for an hour in the

evening. Mr. Clapperton also, who had been in a state of extreme

danger for many days, appeared to have passed the crisis of his

attack—cool blood flowed once more in his veins, and consciousness

was restored to his mind: he was however emaciated, and in a dreadful

state of weakness, and his eyes could scarcely be said to have life

or expression in them; he had been supported outside his hut for

the last two days, and we began to hope he would recover.

Sep. 28.—During the confinement of Doctor Oudney, I had occasionally

seen the sheikh about every seven days; he was always anxious in

his inquiries after him, and seemed much surprised that, having such

excellent medicines for other people, he should not be able to cure

himself: and as this day the doctor seemed to think himself a little

better, we went together to the sheikh. Dr. Oudney at once told

him that he wished to go to Soudan; and as he had not given me the

slightest intimation of this being his intention, I was really as much

surprised as the sheikh himself. “What is your object?” said he:

“why, the courier has not yet brought the bashaw’s directions.”

Doctor Oudney replied, “My wish is to see the country—I cannot

live here—I shall die. While travelling, I am always better.”

[Illustration: From a Sketch by Major Denham.

Engraved by E. Finden.

HUT AND CARPENTER WORK SHOP.

_Published Feb. 1826, by John Murray, London._]

Hillman had been for a long time employed in making a gun-carriage

for a four-pounder, which the sultan of Fezzan had formerly brought

as a present to the sheikh: the scarcity of iron, the awkwardness of

the negro blacksmiths, and clumsiness of their work when finished,

were so distressing to the correct eye of an English shipwright,

that even after the carriage was completed—and considering the

means he had, it was very well done—Hillman was far from being

satisfied with his work: not so, however, the sheikh. We took it to

him this afternoon, and he was greatly pleased and surprised at the

facility with which its elevation could be increased or decreased:

both this and the wheels were subjects of great wonder. During the

work, on several occasions, the sheikh had sent Hillman presents of

honey, milk, rice, wheat, and sweet cakes, all of which he had shared

with his companions. On one occasion, after he had finished a large

chair, which pleased the sheikh excessively, he sent him a bag of

gubbuk (money of the country): this, after inquiring what it was,

he returned, with the true and honest pride of an English seaman,

saying, “No! the king of England pays me—I don’t want that;

but I am much obliged to the sheikh, nevertheless.”

The season seemed now to prove very unhealthy both to the natives and

ourselves, and from six to ten bodies were seen carried out daily from

the city gates. My poor friend Mai Meegamy was attacked, among the

rest, by this dreadfully prevalent complaint, and he sent for me by

daylight. I found him in an alarming state of fever, with a fit of the

ague on him at the time: after consulting with Doctor Oudney, who was

unable to visit him, I gave him a strong dose of emetic tartar, and

in two days had the pleasure of seeing him quite recovered. The effect

of the emetic tartar was to him a matter of the greatest astonishment:

at the first sight of the dose he was unwilling to take it, and asked

what a little white powder like that could do for him: he was very

shortly, however, convinced, that the quantity I had prescribed was

quite sufficient. “What wonderful medicine!” said he: “why,

if I had swallowed so much,” taking up a little sand in his hand,

“what would have become of me! Wonderful! wonderful! the English

know every thing: why are they not Musselmen?”

This day, a large guana and a young crocodile were brought to me by

one of the Shouaas: they had been killed on the banks of the Shary,

five days distant, and were in pretty good preservation. I proceeded

to dry them in the way mentioned by Mr. Burchell; and although

this was a matter I had never before had the least experience in,

or taste for, yet I became every day more and more interested in

the collections and preservations of our specimens of birds and

other animals.

The sheikh sent us three birds[37], which had been taken in their

nests at Loggun: they are very scarce, and much esteemed, their

flesh being used as a medicine for many disorders, placed hot to the

part affected, particularly for an enlargement of the spleen. They

feed on insects, fish, snakes, and serpents, the latter of which

they have a particular instinct of discovering. This bird discovers

their vicinity while yet many feet under ground, digs on the spot,

destroys the nest, and feeds on the venomous inhabitant and its

eggs: although larger than a turkey-cock, they were so young as to

be unable to walk; indeed, the feathers were not all perfect, and

I determined on endeavouring to rear one of them to more mature age

and beauty. I had, indeed, already a little menagerie, which, if I

would have allowed it, the sheikh would have added to daily, and I

found in them great amusement—I might almost say much comfort. My

collection consisted, besides my Loggun bird, of two monkeys,

five parrots, a civet cat, a young ichneumon, and a still younger

hyæna: they had all become sociable with each other, and with me,

and had their separate corners allotted them in the inclosure that

surrounded my hut, except the parrots and the monkeys, who were at

liberty; and while sitting in the midst of them of a morning, with

my mess of rice and milk, I have often cast my thoughts to England,

and reflected with deep interest on the singular chances of life by

which I was placed in a situation so nearly resembling the adventurous

hero of my youthful sympathies, Robinson Crusoe.

Our whole household now began to revive, and on Sunday we all met in

the evening about sun-set, before the doors of our huts, and enjoyed

the cool breeze for more than half an hour; even Doctor Oudney, whose

eyes had ceased to be so painful, joined us—we had not enjoyed such

a coterie for many months. A very hale strong negro woman, the mother

of Mr. Clapperton’s servant, had taken the fever from her son,

who had been more than a month laid on his back, and reduced her

almost to death’s door. She was a Koorie from one of the islands

to the east of the Tchad, and had sent for several fighis, who,

after writing mysterious words, decided on her case as hopeless. At

last an old Hadgi, more than seventy years of age, was requested to

come to her:—he was a miserable old wretch, carrying nothing but an

ink-bottle, made of a small gourd, and a few reed pens; but he set

about his business with great form, and with the air of a master;

and, in the evening, Zerega, my negro’s wife, came to me, quite

in raptures at the following wonderful story: he said the woman was

certainly enchanted, probably by the _kaffirs_, meaning the English,

but, “By the head of the prophet,” he should drive the devil

out of her, and which he called _shetan_ (the devil). He wrote a

new _gidder_ (wooden bowl) all over sentences from the Koran; he

washed it, and she drank the water; he said “Bismullah” forty

times, and some other words, when she screamed out, and he directly

produced two little red and white birds, which he said had come from

her. “What did you do in that poor woman? she is not young,”

said the fighi; “why perplex her? why did not you come out of her

before?” “We did not wish to hurt her much,” said the birds;

“but she has been kaffiring, old as she is, and must be punished:

there are others in her yet who will not come out so easily; but

now, since you are come, she will not die, but she had better take

care for the future: we jumped into her when she went to the market;

and she knows what she did there.” The poor woman shed an abundance

of tears, and acknowledged that she had been a little thoughtless on

the preceding market-day. The fighi was rewarded with her best Soudan

shift, and they were all made happy at the news of her recovery.

October 7.—About three thousand of the sheikh’s _spaheia_

(horsemen) had lately come in from the Tchad, Shary, and the different

towns south and west of Angornou, in order that they might undergo a

general inspection: their horses were in good condition. An extremely

careful inspection took place by the sheikh himself, and punishment

was instantly inflicted on any one who had a young horse, if it

appeared to have been neglected: but those whose horses were old

were excused, and the animal changed.

October 8.—A circumstance happened yesterday, which I acknowledge a

good deal irritated my feelings. A Tripoli merchant had intrusted to

one of the Mesurata a parcel of coral, to take for him to Angornou:

it was, however, never forthcoming, and he declared that he had

lost it on the road. The Koran law would not, in that case, oblige

the loser to make good the loss—a thing lost is God’s will,

and nobody’s fault. A servant of the owner, however, unluckily

saw the coral afterwards in the Mesurata’s house; the merchant,

therefore, appealed to the kadi, as, if he succeeded in proving this,

the value would be recoverable. This servant had been for some time

out of employ, and had assisted at our huts during the time that

we had so many of our party sick. The kadi took this man’s oath,

and was about to decide, when some one said, “Why, he eats bread

and salt with the Christians.” “How!” said the kadi; “is

that true?” “Yes,” replied he, “I have eaten their bread,

but it was because no one else would feed me; but I don’t hate them

the less for that.” “Turn him out,” said the kadi: “_Staffur

allah!_ God forbid that any one who has eaten with Christians should

give justice by the laws of Mahommed!” His evidence was accordingly

refused, and the merchant lost his cause. A Bornouese, a friend

of mine, who was present, asked the kadi, with much simplicity,

whether really these Christians were such bad people: “they seem

kind,” said he; “and if they are so very bad, why does God suffer

them to be so rich, and to know things so much better than we do?”

“Don’t talk about them,” said the kadi, “don’t talk about

them—please God, those who are here will die Mislem: as to their

riches, let them enjoy them. God allows them the good things of

this world, but to Mislem he has given paradise and eternity.”

“_Geree! geree!_” (true! true!) was re-echoed from each; and

the fatah was immediately recited aloud.

We had now received intelligence that the kafila which had left this

place from Mourzuk, nearly a month since, was detained at Woodie,

in consequence of the Tibboos having filled the wells between that

place and Billma. Such of the Arabs as remained of our escort, after

their return from Munga, left Kouka with the first kafila for Tripoli:

they were all my professed friends; but, notwithstanding the miserable

state in which they were, I had not the means of assisting them; the

few dollars each man had received from the bashaw on quitting Tripoli,

and all they possessed besides, being lost at Mandara, and they knew

I was precisely in the same situation. One man in three or four sold

his gun, an Arab’s greatest treasure, to provide them with water,

skins, and corn, for their journey. Added to this, they were all

weakened by sickness and wounds: the fancied riches they were to

be masters of, by Boo-Khaloom’s victories over the Kerdies, had

vanished into air, and they were about to return to their families

after a year’s absence, even poorer than they left them.

That the desperation natural to an Arab should be excited by such

circumstances was not to me a matter of surprise. I cautioned them,

however, against returning to Tripoli with unclean hands: they

promised fair enough, and even shuddered when I reminded them of

the bashaw’s summary mode of punishing; all was, however, without

effect; for, on arriving at the Tibboo country, they proceeded to the

well Daggesheinga, a retreat which had been shown to Boo-Khaloom in

confidence, on his last journey, by Mina Tahr, the road to which they

too well remembered, and surprising the flocks of the Tibboos, and

killing three of their people, marched off four hundred and upwards

of their best maherhies: this had exasperated the Tibboos almost to

madness; and they filled up all the wells, swearing they would be

repaid, or that no kafilas should pass through their country. This

news made us tremble for our supplies; but evils seemed to be crowding

thick upon us, from all quarters. We discovered too, or thought we

discovered, that the people now treated us with less respect, and

were more lavish of the contemptuous appellations of kaffir, kelb,

insara, unbeliever, dog, Christian, both to me and to our servants

than formerly; and as the opinion of the _oi polloi_ in all these

countries is usually governed by authority, I concluded we had also

lost ground in the estimation of the chief. A Bornou boy whom I had

taken some notice of, and who used to come to me almost every day

to talk Bornouese, was hooted in the streets, and called insara; and

when we turned him from the huts for stealing nearly two dollars in

strips of cloth, the money of the country, the people all exclaimed

against such an act, as, by kaffiring with Christians, they said

that the misfortune of being supposed a thief had come upon him.

October 10.—We had to-day a fresh breeze from the north-west,

which was delightfully invigorating, and the natives promised us

some few days of cold dry weather, which was to carry off all the

fever and agues. This strongly reminded me of the Spanish villagers

in Old Castile, who, during the sickly months of July and August,

were, upon an average, three out of four confined to their beds with

a very similar complaint: like these people, they took no medicines,

but always said, “When the cold winds come we shall be better.”

The winds in Bornou are regular and periodical: previous to our going

to Munga, east and south-east winds were nearly constant; when the

rainy season commenced, we had them from the south-west, with a thick

atmosphere, a sultry, damp, and oppressive air. Previous to a storm,

gusts of wind would accompany the black clouds which encompassed us,

and blow with great force from the north-east; these winds, however,

were not accompanied by such violent or lasting rains; but when the

clouds formed themselves to the south-east, they were tremendous,

accumulating, as it were, all their force, and gradually darkening

into a deeper and more terrific black, with frequent and vivid

forked lightning, accompanied by such deafening and repeated claps of

thunder, as shook the ground beneath our feet like an earthquake. The

rain always at these times burst upon us in torrents, continuing

sometimes for several hours; while blasts of wind, from the same

quarter, drove with a violence against our unsheltered huts, that

made us expect, every instant, low as they were, to see the roofs fly

from over our heads, and deprive us of the trifling protection they

afforded. After these storms, the inclosures round our huts were often

knee deep in water, and channels were formed, with all possible speed,

in order to prevent the huts themselves from being inundated. At

the full and change of the moon these storms were always most violent.

Oct. 16.—“How use doth breed a habit in a man.” Miserably

solitary as were all my pursuits, disheartening as were my prospects,

and demi-savage as was my life altogether, I was incapable of

accounting, even to myself, for the tranquillity in which my days

glided away. The appetite with which I generally devoured the rice or

paste, which formed my lone repasts, for no one could endure the smell

of food but myself, so heavy was sickness upon them; the satisfaction

felt in my morning and evening visits to Barca Gana, and the plans,

full of hope of further progress, which floated in my imagination,

when at night I laid my head upon my pillow, frequently excited in

my mind the most proud and grateful sensations.

I had been fully employed (convinced that I was best consulting the

interests of the mission, the primary object of all my thoughts,

by cultivating the favour and good will of the sheikh), during the

two last days in superintending the manufacture of cartridges, for

the two field-pieces, which were now both mounted, as we had plenty

of very good paper for the purpose with us. In this I succeeded to

my wishes; but the providing of balls was a great difficulty; and

after trying a number of musket-balls in a small linen bag, which

would not answer, I succeeded in getting from the negro blacksmith,

by means of a paper model, a small tin canister, the size of the

mouth of the piece, and holding sixteen musket balls. The sheikh’s

delight was extreme at this acquisition to his own implements of

war, and he became impatient to see the guns exercised. I offered,

if he would appoint six of his best slaves, three to each gun, that I

would instruct them as well as I was able—as firing them quick was

a very material augmentation of their utility; and I at the same time

strongly recommended his holding forth to his people the promise of

reward, in the event of their being brought safe out of battle; and

that the punishment would be most severe in case they were deserted,

and fell into the hands of an enemy. The sheikh’s preparation for

war had been carried on for the last two months with great vigour; his

whole armoury had been renovated; and he told me, exultingly, that he

had two hundred guns, pistols, and carbines—although from the locks

of full fifty it would have been in vain to attempt producing fire.

The sheikh had, in the beginning of his conquests, seen the advantage

of encouraging the discontented of other countries to settle in

his new towns; and, besides the Kanemboo who accompanied him,

he had Tuaricks, Tibboos, Arabs, and Begharmis,—and on those he

appeared to rest his chief reliance. To check this warlike spirit

was far from his wish or interest; for by indulging it, he not

only enriched himself, and his people, and strengthened his power,

but might also hope to render it eventually a source of strength,

prosperity, and permanency to his kingdom.

Notwithstanding the business of war appeared so fully to occupy the

sheikh’s thoughts, yet his anxiety for a reformation, as despotic

as it was impracticable, amongst the frail of his woman-kind, was

still uppermost in his mind; an instance of which occurred when

two of these unfortunates fell into his hands, whose sinnings were

placed beyond all doubt by the activity of the spies he employed to

watch over this department; and although his decisions on ordinary

occasions were ever on the side of mercy, these poor girls were

sentenced to be hanged by the neck until they were dead[38]. The

agitation and sorrow which the threatened execution of these

two girls, who were both of them under seventeen, excited in the

minds of all the people, were most creditable to their feelings;

and although on other occasions their submission to the decrees

of their chief was abject in the extreme, yet on this (to say the

least of it) rigorous sentence being made public, loud murmurs were

uttered by the men, and railings by the women. The lover of one of

the girls swore that he would stab any man who attempted to place the

rope. He had offered to read the fatah with her[39], which offer had

been refused. The general feeling was pity, and the severity of the

punishment caused the sin to be almost forgotten, which would not

have been the case had the penalty been of a more lenient nature:

indeed, it was natural that pity should be felt—notwithstanding

all one’s morality, it was impossible to feel otherwise. The day

after (for punishments are summary in eastern countries) was fixed

for the expiation of their crime, but a fighi, nearly equal to the

sheikh in skill, took upon himself to remonstrate, and declared

such punishments were themselves _haram_ (sins), for in no part

of the Koran could an authority be found for such a sentence. To

disgrace or set a mark on such culprits was the law of the Prophet,

not death;—and that should these poor offenders suffer, God would

avenge their death on the country, and sickness, with bad crops,

would come upon them. The sheikh for a long time continued inexorable,

and observed that riches, plenty, and prosperity, without virtue,

were not worth possessing—the punishment of the two girls, however,

was eventually commuted to that of head-shaving, a heavy disgrace,

and which was performed in the public street.

The ceremony of the trial of the brass guns, for which, after

consulting Mr. Clapperton, who was too ill to undertake it himself, I

had succeeded in making charge and wadding, took place this afternoon,

before the sheikh and a thousand spectators. The distance to which

they threw the balls, and the loudness of the report, created the

greatest astonishment: but I could not persuade the sheikh to suffer

a second canister to be shot: “No, no!” said he, “they are too

valuable; they must not be thrown away: curses on their race! how

these will make the Begharmis jump!” I had cut them out a harness

in paper as a pattern, which had been tolerably made in leather:

this was attached to each gun, with a man mounted on the mule that

drew it; and altogether the guns had a far better appearance and

effect than I expected. The carriages answered extremely well—were

very steady; and I much regretted that poor Hillman, to whom all

the credit of mounting them belonged, was confined to his mattress,

and unable to see how well they answered: but the sheikh’s anxiety

would not brook delay.

Nov. 9.—The cool winds which had prevailed for the last fifteen

days had so purified the air, that disease appeared to be taking its

departure, and a season of health about to succeed in its turn. These

long-wished-for breezes generally came on about ten in the forenoon,

and continued until two hours after mid-day. They had a great

effect on the natives, and appeared considerably to invigorate

ourselves. Both Mr. Clapperton and Hillman were now able to walk

about with the assistance of a stick: they were both, however,

sadly pulled down, and enfeebled.

The two expeditions, one for Kanem and the other to Begharmi,

were now said to be in readiness for departing after the feast, or

Aid-of-Milaud, which was to be kept on the 16th and two following

days. I had determined on accompanying one of them, whether a

supply of money arrived or not, as the season of the year was too

valuable to be wasted. This was the first opportunity that had

offered of a movement to the eastward in any direction, and it was

not to be lost. I had one camel and one horse, and, as before, I

was determined on taking my chance with the ghrazzie, and faring as

well as circumstances would allow me. The feast was ushered in with

all the customary rejoicings, and gifts were distributed by all the

great people; nor were we forgotten by the sheikh, who sent us two

bullocks[40] and three sheep, and two jars of honey, which in our

situation was no mean present; for as sickness began to subside

amongst us, our appetite increased.

Nov. 21.—The feast, Aid-of-Milaud (the birth-day of Mohammed)

is attended with nearly similar rejoicings to the other feast

days; but instead of wrestlings amongst the men, the ladies, on

this occasion, dance according to the fashion of their country. The

motions of the Kouka women, though the least graceful, are certainly

the most entertaining; all, however, form a striking contrast to

the lascivious movements of the Arab and Barbary dancers—every

thing here is modest, and free from any indelicacy. To commence

with those of the capital, who also first appear in the circle, the

Koukowy advance by twos and threes, and after advancing, retiring,

and throwing themselves into various attitudes, accompanied by

the music from several drums, they suddenly turn their backs to

each other, and suffer those parts which are doomed to endure the

punishment for all the offences of our youth to come together with

all the force they can muster, and she who keeps her equilibrium

and destroys that of her opponent, is greeted by cheers and shouts,

and is led out of the ring by two matrons, covering her face with

her hands. They sometimes come together with such violence as to

burst the belt of beads which all the women of rank wear round their

bodies just above the hips, and showers of beads would fly in every

direction: some of these belts are twelve or sixteen inches wide,

and cost fifteen or twenty dollars. Address is, however, often

attended, in these contests, with better success than strength;

and a well managed feint exercised at the moment of the expected

concussion, even when the weight of metal would be very unequal,

oftentimes brings the more weighty tumbling to the ground, while

the other is seen quietly seated on the spot where she had with

great art and agility dropt herself. The Shouaas were particularly

happy in these feints, which were practised in different ways,

either by suddenly slipping on one side, sitting or lying down. I

had not seen so many pretty women together since leaving England,

for, as compared with the negresses, the Shouaas are almost white,

and their features particularly handsome; such an assembly was to

us novel and gratifying. I was, however, sometimes surprised to

find how much I became accustomed to the sight of these swarthy

beauties, even so as to be able to look at them with pleasure. The

women of Bornou and Begharmi danced with a much slower motion, and

accompanied themselves by singing: the former wear simply a blue

wrapper or scarf over the shoulders, and holding each end of the

wrapper with the arms extended, frequently threw themselves into very

pleasing and graceful, if not elegant, attitudes; while the latter,

with their hands before them, sometimes clasped together, sometimes

crossed on the breast, and sometimes with only just the tips of the

fingers meeting à la Madonna, appeared to sing a tale of extreme

interest to the bystanders; this was accompanied by sinkings of the

body, and bendings of the head, from side to side—all finished

by sitting down and covering their faces, when they were led out of

the circle by the elder women.

The Arabs and chiefs from Angornou and the neighbouring towns came

into Kouka in the evening, and the sheikh, accompanied by full one

thousand horsemen, rode round the walls, preceded by seven flags,

and after praying at some distance, returned to the palace: his

new-trained footmen with guns were present, who skirmished with the

horse: and on asking me how they fired, he said, “I have full two

hundred guns—where are the Begharmis now?—the dogs!” This

was repeated the two following days: blessings were asked on the

expedition about to depart, and the disposition made. Two days out

of three I accompanied them, and rode for a short time by his side,

and very much pleased he appeared to be by the attention. We had no

news, however, of the courier, and our spirits were greatly depressed

by the report of his being lost on the road.

Nov. 25.—The season of the year had arrived when the sovereigns of

these countries go out to battle, and the dread of the bashaw’s

expedition had prevented the sheikh from making an inroad into the

Begharmi country; they, in consequence, took the opportunity of

attacking him, notwithstanding their discomfiture in five different

former expeditions, when at least twenty thousand poor creatures

were slaughtered, and three-fourths of that number at least driven

into slavery. The Begharmis had once more come down to the south

side of the Shary, and induced the people of Loggun to declare for

them. The boats of Loggun were to bring the Begharmis over the river,

and then all were to pour into the sheikh’s dominions. We were in

sad confusion at Kouka on hearing the news, and the sheikh prepared

to muster his forces with all despatch.

Nov. 29.—At our audience this morning we were detained for some

time, while a case was decided in which several Kanemboo chiefs

were charged with not having, on some former occasions, treated

the sheikh’s people with kindness. The disaffected sheikhs were

buffeted even in the presence, by the Bornouese, taken out, and

three of the worst of them strangled in the court-yard[41].

Dec. 3.—Although, by the arrival of a messenger from Munga,

the immediate alarm of the Felatah attack from the south-west was

considerably abated, yet they continued increasing in force, and at

not more than five days distance. The Begharmis were also still on

the south bank of the Shary, close to the river, and unless alarmed

by the sheikh’s preparations, were confidently reported to have the

intention of attacking him when the waters had sufficiently subsided

to render it practicable, which was expected in less than a month. The

expedition for Kanem accordingly left this day, under the charge of

Ali Gana, the sheikh’s kaganawha[42], and next in command after

Barca Gana, and another was said to be intended to the south-west.

The news of the last month, both from the Begharmi side and the Kanem,

from the south-east and the east, had been of the worst description:

a direful war of extermination had been for years carried on between

Bornou and Begharmi, the fury of which had not in the least abated. No

males were spared on either side, except on terms worse perhaps than

death. The sultan of Bornou had more than two hundred youths under

twenty, from Begharmi, in his harem, as eunuchs; while the sultan

of Begharmi (who was said to have nearly one thousand wives) had

treble that number of unfortunate Bornouese and Kanemboo eunuchs,

chosen out of the most healthy young men who had fallen into his

hands as prisoners, and spared from the general massacre for the

purpose of serving him in that capacity. Even the moral, and in many

respects the amiable, sheikh had more than thirty Begharmi lads thus

qualified to enter the apartments of his wives and princesses.

As I was one day taking shelter, in the portico of the sheikh’s

garden, from the violence of a sudden storm of rain, the chief of

those privileged persons brought me to see about a dozen of this

corps, who were just recovering from the ordeal of initiation, which

they had gone through: thin and emaciated, though fed and taken

the greatest care of (for they become extremely valuable, and will

sell to any Turkish merchant for two hundred and fifty or three

hundred dollars), these poor remnants of promising healthy young

men passed before me. I could not contain my emotion, or disguise

the distress which was apparent in my countenance, so that the old

hardened chief of the seraglio, who seemed happy that so many of

his fellow-creatures were reduced to the same standard as himself,

exclaimed, “Why, Christian, what signifies all this? they are only

Begharmis! dogs! kaffirs! enemies!—they ought to have been cut

in four quarters alive, and now they will drink coffee, eat sugar,

and live in a palace all their lives.”

The late intelligence from Waday side, by which route I had always

indulged hopes of advancing, some distance at least, very much tended

to weaken those hopes. The contention between Waday and the sheikh,

for the possession and government of Kanem, had, for the last year

or two, been violent; and now open hostilities had commenced between

him and the sultan. It was true, that no kafila had passed between

Bornou and Waday for five years, and the only person that had left the

former place, since our arrival, for Waday, had been the young Fighi

from Timbuctoo, on his way to _Musser_ (Cairo), who had accompanied

a _Fakeer_[43] on his return to Waday. A party of Shouaas had once,

indeed, since our residence at Kouka, come from the borders of

the Waday country, beyond Kanem, to sell a few camels; but it was

generally supposed here, they came merely as spies: they were the

most lawless set themselves; and the account they gave of the road

was merely to induce some of the Arab merchants to take their advice,

when they would have been the first to plunder them[44]. Since the

death of the good sultan Sabon, as he was called, no intercourse

had been attempted either from hence, or even from Fezzan. The only

man who escaped from the last kafila, five years ago, was now here,

and gave the following account of the treatment he received: he

was named Abde Nibbe, the confidential servant of the _kaghia_[45]

of the bashaw; and had gone from Tripoli to Waday, by the way of

Mourzuk, having been intrusted with a very considerable sum of the

kaghia’s, with which he was to trade: they arrived at Waday in

safety, and at Wara the capital; and after residing there more than

twenty days, during which time he had purchased thirty-seven slaves,

and was apparently upon friendly terms with the natives, one morning

they entered his hut, seized all his property, stripped and bound

him, and, when naked, he was carried before the chief who acted as

regent, Sabon’s son the sultan being but an infant. Abde Nibbe

there found forty persons, consisting of his fellow-travellers and

their followers, bound in the same manner as himself: after being

insulted in every possible way, they were taken outside the town,

in order to have their throats cut. Abde Nibbe, who was a powerful

fellow from Towergha[46], after seeing many of his companions suffer

themselves patiently to be massacred, feeling the cord with which his

hands were tied but loosely fastened, determined on making an attempt,

at least, to save his life: he burst the cord asunder, and ran towards

the hills; twice they caught him, and twice he escaped from their

keeping, carrying with him three wounds from spears, and one from

a knife, which very nearly severed his right hand from his body:

night, however, came on, and creeping into a hole, which had been,

and still might be, the habitation of a brood of hyænas; there he

remained three nights and three days, until raging hunger forced him

to quit his retreat—where, however, to go was the question—who

could he trust amongst so barbarous a people? One person alone came

to his mind as likely to assist him in this extremity—in whose

hands alone he conceived his life would be safe. Was it his brother,

or his sworn bosom friend? No: it was man’s never failing, last,

and best consolation, woman: one to whom he had been kind in his

prosperity, whom he had been intimate with; and he felt assured that

she would not be ungrateful, and never betray his confidence. Was

he mistaken? No: she received him, fed him, washed his wounds, and

for seven days concealed him; when, at last, he was discovered,

and carried again before the chief. After asking how he escaped,

the governor said, “I will keep you in my service, give you a

horse, and see whether you will fight as well for me as you did

for yourself.” Abde Nibbe remained more than two months in this

situation, drawing water, carrying wood, &c. when he heard that a

kafila was about to leave Waday, consisting of a few merchants only,

the remains of his own, and former ones, who had bought their lives

at a very high price: taking advantage, therefore, of a dark night,

he once more escaped and joined them. They lent him a gun and some

ammunition to protect him from the wild beasts, which were very

numerous, and advised his quitting the kafila before day for the

woods: he moved nearly parallel with the kafila, and at night again

joined them. In this way he moved for five days, when the Waday

horsemen gave up the pursuit, and returned without him.

December 14.—Doctor Oudney and Mr. Clapperton left Kouka this

day, for Kano, with a kafila of nearly twenty merchants, beside

servants: this was the eighth kafila that had gone to Soudan, since

our arrival here; and as no other was expected to go for many months

in consequence of the non-arrivals from Mourzuk, and the other parts

of Fezzan, Doctor Oudney, notwithstanding the extremely debilitated

state to which he was reduced, determined on accompanying this,

if the sheikh would allow him. El Kanemy not only gave his instant

permission, but did his utmost to forward his views, and to secure

his safety: he charged Mohammed-el-Wordee, the principal person of

the kafila, to assist them in every way, and gave them letters to

the sultan of Kattagum, to the sultan of Kano, and also to a Moor,

residing at Kano, named Hat-Salah, with whom he had great influence,

and to whose care he confided them as friends of his own, and the

best of Christians.

December 16.—Yesterday Barca Gana, with an expedition nearly twelve

hundred strong, marched to the south-west, to a place called Kaka;

from whence he was to proceed against a Felatah town, called Monana,

which was said to be the rendezvous for the sheikh’s enemies: his

orders, however, were more to ascertain in what strength the Felatah

really were, and what were their intentions, than to attack them.

December 21.—To my inexpressible delight, Karouash came with

intelligence that a small kafila had arrived at Woodie from Mourzuk,

that an Englishman accompanied them, and that this was followed by

another, a more numerous one, which they had quitted at Zow.

The following was a day of great anxiety; and on the 23d instant,

very soon after daylight, I was overjoyed at seeing, instead of

Mr. Tyrwhit, whose bodily infirmities made me always consider his

joining me doubtful, a robust, healthy-looking young man, with a

double-barrelled gun slung at his back. When he presented himself at

the door of my hut, his very countenance was an irresistible letter

of introduction, and I opened the packages which were to account for

his appearance with considerable eagerness. Mr. Tyrwhit, I found,

had been prevented by sickness from profiting by the consul’s

recommendation; and that on application being made to the governor of

Malta for a substitute, Mr. Toole, an ensign in the 80th regiment, had

volunteered to join me, and left Malta at twenty hours’ notice. He

had made the long, dangerous, and difficult journey from Tripoli

to Bornou, in the short space of three months and fourteen days,

having left that place on the 6th of September; and overcoming all

obstacles by perseverance and resolution, both at Mourzuk and in the

Tibboo country, had arrived here with only the loss of five camels.

The arrival of this kafila with Mr. Toole, and the supplies which

he brought, gave a most favourable turn to my situation at Kouka. I

had now money, health, and a desirable companion: even an attack

might lead to our pursuing an enemy, and by that means getting

out of the sheikh’s dominions; and “God send the fair goddess,

deep in love with us,” was our constant prayer, as, on the least

favourable opportunity offering, I had determined to make a start

in one direction or another. At one time, indeed, Pandora’s sealed

casket seemed literally to have burst over our heads,—strife, war,

famine, falsehood, and a thousand other evils, surrounded us. Still,

however, hope remained in the box; so did we attach ourselves to

this never-failing sheet-anchor, and despondency took wing as we

abandoned ourselves without reserve to the sympathies she inspired.

Jan. 3, 1824.—My friend Tirab, the Shouaa generalissimo, had

long promised to kill me an elephant, as he expressed himself; and

this day, about noon, a messenger came to our huts, saying, that,

after hunting an enormous male elephant for five hours, they had at

length brought him to a stand, near Bree, about ten miles north-east

of Kouka. Mr. Toole and myself instantly mounted our horses, and,

accompanied by a Shouaa guide, we arrived at the spot where he had

fallen, just as he breathed his last.

Although not more than twenty-five years old, his tusk measuring

barely four feet six inches, he was an immense fellow. His dimensions

were as under:

ft. in.

Length from the proboscis to the tail 25 6

Proboscis 7 6

Small teeth 2 10

Foot longitudinally 1 7

Eye 2 by 1½

From the foot to the hip-bone 9 6

From the hip-bone to the back 3 0

Ear 2 by 2 6

I had seen much larger elephants than this alive, when on my last

expedition to the Tchad; some I should have guessed sixteen feet in

height, and with a tusk probably exceeding six feet in length. The

one before me, which was the first I had seen dead, was, however,

considered as of more than common bulk and stature; and it was not

until the Kanemboo of the town of Bree came out, and by attracting

his attention with their yells, and teasing him by hurling spears

at his more tender parts, that the Shouaas dared to dismount; when,

by ham-stringing the poor animal, they brought him to the ground,

and eventually despatched him by repeated wounds in the abdomen and

proboscis: five leaden balls had struck him about the haunches, in

the course of the chase, but they had merely penetrated a few inches

into his flesh, and appeared to give him but little uneasiness. The

whole of the next day the road, leading to the spot where he lay,

was like a fair, from the numbers who repaired thither for the sake of

bringing off a part of the flesh, which is esteemed by all, and even

eaten in secret by the first people about the sheikh: it looks coarse,

but is better flavoured than any beef I found in the country. Whole

families put themselves in motion, with their daughters mounted on

bullocks, on this occasion, who, at least, hoped as much would fall to

their share as would anoint their heads and persons plentifully with

grease at the approaching fsug. The eyes of this noble animal were,

though so extremely small in proportion to his body, languid and

expressive even in death. His head, which was brought to the town,

I had an opportunity of seeing the next day, when I had it opened;

and the smallness of the brain is a direct contradiction to the

hypothesis, that the size of this organ is in proportion to the

sagaciousness of the animal. His skin was a full inch and a half

in thickness, and dark gray, or nearly black, hard, and wrinkled:

his ears, large and hanging, appeared to me the most extraordinary

part about him, particularly from the facility with which he moved

them backwards and forwards: his feet are round, undivided, and have

four nails, or hoofs, for they cannot be called toes, two in the

front of the foot, about an inch in depth, and two inches in length,

which join each other, with two smaller ones on each side of the

foot. In Africa they are scarcely ever taken alive, but hunted as

a sport, for the sake of their flesh; and also in order to obtain

their teeth, which, however, as they are generally small, are sold

to the merchants for a very trifling profit. The manner of hunting

the elephant is simply this: from ten to twenty horsemen single out

one of these ponderous animals, and, separating him from the flock

by screaming and hallooing, force him to fly with all his speed;

after wounding him under the tail, if they can there place a spear,

the animal becomes enraged. One horseman then rides in front, whom

he pursues with earnestness and fury, regardless of those who press

on his rear, notwithstanding the wounds they inflict on him. He is

seldom drawn from this first object of his pursuit; and, at last,

wearied and transfixed with spears, his blood deluging the ground,

he breathes his last under the knife of some more venturesome hunter

than the rest, who buries his dagger in the vulnerable part near

the abdomen: for this purpose he will creep between the animal’s

hinder legs, and apparently expose himself to the greatest danger:

when this cannot be accomplished, one or two will ham-string him,

while he is baited in the front; and this giant of quadrupeds then

becomes comparatively an easy prey to his persecutors.

Jan. 12.—Karouash came to us this evening, with his dark Arab eyes,

sparkling with somewhat more than vivacity; and it was not long

before we found out the cause. The people of Gulphi, who inhabited a

town close to the banks of the Shary, had no other means of raising

their grain (the land surrounding their walls being all tributary

to the sheikh) than by planting it on the south bank of that river;

reaping in the season, and carrying the produce to their city by

means of their flat-bottomed boats. They had, of late, been so

little interrupted in their agricultural pursuits, by the boats

of the neighbouring towns, that a village of huts had sprung up

on this portion of land; and labourers, to the number of three or

four hundred, resided there constantly. The hostile movements of

the Begharmis had, however, made the sheikh’s people more on the

alert than formerly; and passing over the river in their own boats,

accompanied by several deserters from Gulphi, who, traitor-like,

consented to bear arms against the land that gave them birth, and

lead its enemies to the pillage of their brethren, the people of

Maffatai and Kussery had, a few nights before, made an attack on

this village, putting to death all the males, even while they slept;

and, as usual, dragging the women and children to their boats,

returned to their homes without the loss of a man, after setting

fire to all the huts, and more than four hundred stacks of wheat

and gussub. The effects produced by this midnight expedition, and

which was celebrated by singings and rejoicings throughout Kouka,

were indeed of a nature favourable to my prospects, notwithstanding

the shock humanity received from the cause. The Begharmis, who had

occupied the southern banks of the Shary for months, obliging even

the Loggun people to supply them with provisions, took such alarm at

this attack of the sheikh’s people, that they struck their camp,

and retired immediately on the news reaching them; and the Loggun

nation as quickly sent off to the sheikh a deputation, with sixty

slaves, and three hundred bullocks, congratulating him on the event.

I determined on making immediate application for permission to visit

this country; so full of interest, both from its situation, and the

waters by which it was reported to be bounded. No time was to be

lost, for the return of the enemy might be as sudden as his flight;

and again I might have my intentions frustrated. I had been eleven

months endeavouring to visit this country—but to climb steep hills

requires a slow pace at first.

Jan. 18.—The sheikh, who had never, on any one occasion,

neglected making every possible arrangement for carrying my wishes

into execution, had not only instantly complied with my request to

seize this opportunity of visiting Loggun, but sent this morning

Karouash to advise with me as to my proceedings, and to recommend my

going without loss of time. “Bellal shall go with you,” said he;

“who has been in my confidence for seventeen years, and to whom I

could trust my own life, or that of my children, who are even dearer

to me than life itself.”

But in the morning we found a brown horse, which had carried Mr. Toole

from Tripoli, dead within our inclosure: both this and a black one,

which his Arab had been mounted on by the bashaw, had scarcely eaten

any thing since their arrival here. Our departure was therefore put

off for this day. Troubles, however, never come alone. In the evening

the camels I intended to take with me were missing; and although the

people were out looking for them until midnight, we had no tidings. In

the night I was called up, as Mr. Toole’s other horse was dying:

no blood could be got from him; and after staggering about, in a

way resembling intoxication, he died before daylight.

Jan. 22.—Karouash, Ben Taleb, and even the sheikh, now exclaiming

against our going out, “Wonderful! Wonderful!” said they, “it is

written you are not to go.” The delay perplexed me, although to go,

and quickly, I was determined; the time was precious, for I did not

wish the news of my intentions to precede me. Towards night my camels

were found; and the sheikh, hearing that we had been inquiring for

a horse to purchase, sent a very smart black galloway to Mr. Toole

as a present. We had now seen die on our hands, in the space of nine

months, thirty-three camels, six horses, and one mule.

On the 23d I intended being off by daylight; but it was the afternoon

before I could accomplish my wish. The sheikh had given me Bellal:

“He will obey your orders in every thing,” said he; “but you

are going amongst people with whom I have but little influence.”

Bellal, who was one of the handsomest negroes I almost ever saw,

and a superior person, was attended by six of his slaves, two of

whom were mounted; these, with ourselves and two camels, formed our

party. While I was waiting to take leave of the sheikh, a note was

brought me from Dr. Oudney, by a Bornouese from Katagum: it had no

date, and was indeed his last effort. The acknowledgment of being

weak and helpless assured me that he was really so; for during the

whole of his long sufferings a complaint had scarcely ever escaped

his lips. On the sheikh’s saying to him, when he first expressed

his wish to accompany the kafila, “Surely your health is not such

as to risk such a journey?” he merely replied, “Why, if I stay

here, I shall die, and probably sooner, as travelling always improves

my health.”

His letter, though short, expresses great satisfaction at the

treatment he had met with on his journey, and also from the

inhabitants of the country.

[Illustration]

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 34: The most beautiful Jewess in Tripoli is called

Mesrouda-eyum el Oubara (Mesrouda, with the eye of the Oubara).]

[Footnote 35: The anniversary of Abraham’s offering up Isaac,

or the meeting of Pilgrims at Mecca.]

[Footnote 36: Strips of cotton, so many fathoms of which go to

a dollar.]

[Footnote 37: Abyssinian hornbill.]

[Footnote 38: In Tripoli, the father or mother is generally the

executioner, to avenge the sin, and at the same time wipe the stain

from the family, and prevent public execution.]

[Footnote 39: Marry her.]

[Footnote 40: The horn of one of these animals measured two feet,

six inches, and three-quarters, in circumference.]

[Footnote 41: On these occasions the sheikh merely moves his finger,

which is the signal for immediate execution.]

[Footnote 42: Black Mameluke.]

[Footnote 43: A religious mendicant: the name is nearly the Arabic

for poverty.]

[Footnote 44: Soon after this, I made an offer to two Arabs, both

of whom had formerly been at Waday, that I would give them each

two hundred dollars, if they would accompany me: this is a sum for

which an Arab will almost do any thing; but they refused, saying

“No! no! what is money without life? the Waday people will kill

us all.”]

[Footnote 45: Governor of the palace.]

[Footnote 46: A town near Mesurata.]