and by daylight we moved off. The herbage, almost resembling wild
corn, was often up to our horses’ knees. We killed to-day one of
the largest serpents we had seen: it is called _liffa_ by the Arabs,
and its bite is said to be mortal, unless the part is instantly cut
out. It is a mistaken idea, that all the serpent tribe are called
liffa; this species alone bears the name: it has two horns, and is of
a light brown colour. My old Choush Ghreneim had a distorted foot,
which was of but little use to him except on horseback, from the
bite of one of these poisonous reptiles, notwithstanding the part
infected was cut out: he was for thirteen months confined to his hut,
and never expected to recover.
Arabs are always on the look out for plunder: “’Tis my vocation,
Hal!”—none are ashamed to acknowledge it; but they were on
this occasion to act as an escort to oppose banditti, not play
the part of one. Nevertheless, greatly dissatisfied were they, at
having come so far, and done so little: they formed small parties
for reconnoitring on each side of the road, and were open-mouthed
for any thing that would offer. One fellow on foot had traced the
marks of a flock of sheep to a small village of tents to the east of
our course, and now gave notice of the discovery he had made, but
that they had seen him, and he believed struck their tents. I felt
that I should be a check upon them in the plunderings. Boo-Khaloom,
myself, and about a dozen horsemen (who had each a footman behind
him), instantly started for their retreat, which lay over the hills
to the east. On arriving at the spot, in a valley of considerable
beauty, where these flocks and tents had been observed, we found
the place quite deserted. The poor frighted shepherds had moved off
with their all, knowing too well what would be their treatment from
the Naz Abiad (white people), as they call the Arabs. Their caution,
however, was made the excuse for plundering them, and a pursuit was
instantly determined on. “What! not stay to sell their sheep,
the rogues! We’ll take them now without payment.” We scoured
two valleys without discovering the fugitives, and I began to hope
that the Tibboos had eluded their pursuers, when, after crossing a
deep ravine, and ascending the succeeding ridge, we came directly
on about two hundred head of cattle, and about twenty persons, men,
women, and children, with ten camels laden with their tents and
other necessaries, all moving off. The extra Arabs instantly slipped
from behind their leaders, and with a shout rushed down the hill;
part headed the cattle to prevent their escape, and the most rapid
plunder I could have conceived quickly commenced. The camels were
instantly brought to the ground, and every part of their load rifled:
the poor women and girls lifted up their hands to me, stripped as
they were to the skin, but I could do nothing for them beyond saving
their lives. A sheikh and a maraboot assured me it was quite lawful
(_hallal_) to plunder those who left their tents instead of supplying
travellers. Boo-Khaloom now came up, and was petitioned. I saw he was
ashamed of the paltry booty his followers had obtained, as well as
moved by the tears of the sufferers. I seized the favourable moment,
and advised that the Arabs should give every thing back, and have a
few sheep and an ox for a bousafer (feast): he gave the order, and
the Arabs from under their barracans threw down the wrappers they
had torn off the bodies of the Tibboo women; and I was glad in my
heart, when, taking ten sheep and a fat bullock, we left these poor
creatures to their fate, as, had more Arabs arrived, they would most
certainly have stripped them of every thing. We halted, after dark,
at a place called Mull.
Feb. 2.—Our road, as yesterday, was an extensive valley, bounded to
the right and left by low hills; about noon we descended slightly, and
found ourselves in a productive plain of great extent, thickly planted
with trees and underwood, not unlike a preserve in England. About an
hour before sun-set, we came to what had the appearance of the bed of
a lake, and here was the wished-for well of water. The horses had not
drank since noon on the 31st, and although ready to drop on the road
from faintness, were, on reaching the well, quite unmanageable. The
name of the well was Kofei.
On the 31st, Boo-Khaloom had thought it right to send on a Tibboo with
the news of our approach to the sheikh El-Kanemy, who, we understood,
resided at Kouka, and one was despatched with a camel and a man of
Mina Tahr: the Gundowy accompanied him on the arrival at Kofei of
the Arabs, who preceded us for the purpose of clearing the well. The
Tibboo who had been despatched was found alone and naked; some Tibboo
Arabs, of a tribe called Wandela, had met them near the well on the
preceding evening and robbing him even to his cap, and taking from him
the letters, saying, they cared not for the sheikh or Boo-Khaloom,
tied him to a tree, and then left him. In this state was he found
by our people; and Mr. Clapperton coming up soon after, gave him,
from his biscuit-bag, wherewithal to break his fast, after being
twenty-four hours without eating. Eighteen men had stripped him,
he said, and taken off the camel and Mina Tahr’s man, who, they
also said, should be ransomed, or have his throat cut. Mina Tahr
represented these people as the worst on the road in every sense of
the word: “They have no flocks,” said he, “and have not more
than three hundred camels, although their numbers are one thousand
or more; they live by plunder, and have no connexion with any other
people. No considerable body of men can follow them; their tents
are in the heart of the desert, and there are no wells for four
days in the line of their retreat. Giddy-ben-Agah is their chief,
and I alone would give fifty camels for his head: these are the
people who often attack and murder travellers, and small kafilas,
and the Gundowy, who respect strangers, have the credit of it.”
The men of Traita, with their chief, Eskou-ben-Coglu, came in the
evening to welcome us: the well Kofei belongs to them; and greatly
enraged they appeared to be at the conduct of the Wandelas. This
chief returned to Boo-Khaloom his letters, which, he said, “the
chief of the Wandelas had sent him that morning, begging that he
would meet the kafila at the well, and deliver them to Boo-Khaloom:
had he known then what had taken place, the slave,” he said,
“should have been stabbed at his father’s grave before he
would have delivered them.” Boo-Khaloom was greatly enraged;
and I was almost apprehensive that he would have revenged himself
on the Traita chiefs. However, the Tibboo courier was again clothed
and mounted, and once more started for Bornou. The Traita Tibboos
are more important-looking fellows than the Gunda, but they want
their quickness and activity: they are said not to be more than
eight hundred strong in males.
Feb. 3.—Our course, during the early part of the day, was due south,
and through a country more thickly planted by the all-tasteful hand
of bounteous Nature. We disturbed a flock of what we at first thought
were deer, but they were only a large species of antelope; they are
of a deeper fawn colour, and have black and white stripes under the
belly. The Guinea fowl were in great numbers, but extremely shy. The
whole day our route lay through most pleasing forest scenery. It
was near sunset when we arrived at Mittimee, which, in the Bornou
language, means warm, tepid: the wells exceed fifty in number,
and lie in a woody hollow, where there are clumps of the tulloh and
other species of the mimosa tribe, encircled by kossom and various
parasitical and twining shrubs, which, embracing their stems, wind to
the extremities of their branches, and climb to the very tops, when,
falling over, they form weeping bowers of a most beautiful kind:
it was indeed a lovely and a fair retreat.
Boo-Khaloom, myself, and about six Arabs, had ridden on in front:
it was said we had lost the track, and should miss the well: the day
had been oppressively hot, my companions were sick and fatigued, and
we dreaded the want of water. A fine dust, arising from a light clayey
and sandy soil, had also increased our sufferings: the exclamations of
the Arab who first discovered the wells were indeed music to our ears;
and after satisfying my own thirst, with that of my weary animals,
I laid me down by one of the distant wells, far from my companions;
and these moments of tranquillity, the freshness of the air, with
the melody of the hundred songsters that were perched amongst the
creeping plants, whose flowers threw an aromatic odour all around,
were a relief scarcely to be described. Ere long, however, the noisy
kafila, and the clouds of dust which accompanied it, disturbed me
from the delightful reverie into which I had fallen.
Feb. 4.—Previously to arriving at Lari, we came upon two encampments
of the Traita Tibboos, calling themselves the sheikh’s people:
their huts were not numerous, but very regularly built in a square,
with a space left in the north and south faces of the quadrangle,
for the use of the cattle. The huts were entirely of mats, which,
excluding the sun, yet admitted both the light and the air: these
habitations, for fine weather, are preferable to the bete shars, or
tents, of the Arabs of the north. The interior was singularly neat:
clean wooden bowls, with each a cover of basket-work, for holding
their milk, were hung against the wall. In the centre of the inclosure
were about one hundred and fifty head of cattle feeding from cradles:
these were chiefly milch cows, with calves and sheep. The Tibboos
received us kindly at first, but presumed rather too much on sheikh
Kanemy’s protection, which they claim or throw off, it is said,
as it suits their purpose. The modest request of a man, with two
hundred armed Arabs, for a little milk, was refused; and ready as
the Arabs are to throw down the gauntlet, a slight expression of
displeasure from their leader was followed by such a rapid attack on
the Tibboos, that before I could mount, half the stock was driven off,
and the sheikh well bastinadoed. Boo-Khaloom was, however, too kind
to injure them; and after driving their cattle for about a mile, he
allowed them to return, with a caution to be more accommodating for
the future. Accustomed as these people are to plunder one another,
they expect no better usage from any one who visits them, provided
they are strong enough, and _vice versa_; they are perfect Spartans
in the art of thieving, both male and female.
An old woman, who was sitting at the door of one of the huts, sent a
very pretty girl to me, as I was standing by my horse, whose massy
amber necklace, greased head, and coral nose studs and ear-rings,
announced a person of no common order, to see what she could pick up;
and after gaining possession of my handkerchief and some needles,
while I turned my head, in an instant thrust her hand into the pocket
of my saddle-cloth, as she said, “to find some beads, for she knew
I had plenty.”
Another and much larger nest of the Traitas lay to the east of our
route, a little further on, with numerous flocks and herds. About
two in the afternoon we arrived at Lari, ten miles distant from
Mittimee. On ascending the rising ground on which the town stands,
the distressing sight presented itself of all the female, and most of
the male inhabitants, with their families, flying across the plain
in all directions, alarmed at the strength of our kafila. Beyond,
however, was an object full of interest to us, and the sight of
which conveyed to my mind a sensation so gratifying and inspiring,
that it would be difficult in language to convey an idea of its force
or pleasure. The great lake Tchad, glowing with the golden rays of
the sun in its strength, appeared to be within a mile of the spot on
which we stood. My heart bounded within me at this prospect, for I
believed this lake to be the key to the great object of our search,
and I could not refrain from silently imploring Heaven’s continued
protection, which had enabled us to proceed so far in health and
strength, even to the accomplishment of our task.
It was long before Boo-Khaloom’s best endeavours could restore
confidence: the inhabitants had been plundered by the Tuaricks
only the year before, and four hundred of their people butchered;
and but a few days before, a party of the same nation had again
pillaged them, though partially. When, at length, these people
were satisfied that no harm was intended them, the women came in
numbers with baskets of gussub, gafooly, fowls, and honey, which were
purchased by small pieces of coral and amber of the coarsest kind,
and coloured beads. One merchant bought a fine lamb for two bits
of amber, worth, I should think, about twopence each in Europe;
two needles purchased a fowl; and a handful of salt four or five
good sized fish from the lake.
Lari is inhabited by the people of Kanem, who are known by the name
of Kanemboo: the women are good-looking, laughing negresses, and all
but naked; but this we were now used to, and it excited no emotions
of surprise. Most of them had a square or triangular piece of silver
or tin hanging at the back of the head, suspended from the hair,
which was brought down, in narrow plaits, quite round the neck.
Feb. 5.—By sun-rise I was on the borders of the lake, armed for
the destruction of the multitude of birds, who, all unconscious of
my purpose, seemed as it were to welcome our arrival. Flocks of geese
and wild ducks, of a most beautiful plumage, were quietly feeding at
within half pistol shot of where I stood; and not being a very keen
or inhuman sportsman, for the terms appear to me to be synonymous,
my purpose of deadly warfare was almost shaken. As I moved towards
them they only changed their places a little to the right or left,
and appeared to have no idea of the hostility of my intentions. All
this was really so new, that I hesitated to abuse the confidence with
which they regarded me, and very quietly sat down to contemplate the
scene before me. Pelicans, cranes, four and five feet in height,
grey, variegated, and white, were scarcely so many yards from my
side, and a bird, between a snipe and a woodcock, resembling both,
and larger than either; immense spoonbills of a snowy whiteness,
widgeon, teal, yellow-legged plover, and a hundred species of (to
me at least) unknown water fowl, were sporting before me; and it
was long before I could disturb the tranquillity of the dwellers on
these waters by firing a gun.
[Illustration: From a Sketch by Major Denham’s.
Engraved by E. Finden.
KANEMBOO MARKET WOMAN.
UNMARRIED WOMAN OF SOUDAN.
_Published Feb. 1826, by John Murray, London._]
The soil near the edges of the lake was a firm dark mud; and, in proof
of the great overflowings and recedings of the waters, even in this
advanced dry season, the stalks of the gussub, of the preceding year,
were standing in the lake, more than forty yards from the shore. The
water is sweet and pleasant, and abounds with fish; which the natives
have a curious way of catching. Some thirty or forty women go into
the lake, with their wrappers brought up between their legs, and tied
round their middles, as I should say, by single files, and forming
a line at some distance in the water, fronting the land, for it is
very shallow near the edges, and absolutely charge the fish before
them so close, that they are caught by the hand, or leap upon the
shore. We purchased some, and the best flavoured was a sort of bream.
A circumstance happened whilst I was on the margin of the lake,
which was a further proof that the little kindnesses I had shown
the Arabs were not lost upon them; and which supported my favourite
position, that no people on earth are so savage, but that gentle kind
treatment, with a frank and liberal manner, will gain their confidence
and regard. A lamb, the most harmless thing that breathes, alarms
a child who for the first time sees such an animal. I had suffered
my horse to go loose, in order to approach close to the flights of
birds around me, and he probably thinking the tents might afford
him better fare than where I left him, first rubbed off his bridle,
and then quietly returned to the encampment. About the same time
one of the freed women found my bornouse, which had fallen from the
saddle, and brought it to Boo Khaloom. All this created an alarm,
and it was then found out, that two boats or canoes had been seen
coming from the south-east, in which direction are islands inhabited
by the Biddoomah, a people who live by plundering on the main land,
and carry off any thing they can pick up. This was quite enough to
make Boo Khaloom think I was already gone, or in great danger; and not
only several Arab chiefs armed themselves, and mounted, to seek me,
but some of the merchants also. They found me, after a long search,
on the lake among the gussub stalks, loaded with more birds than
I could carry, and would scarcely believe that I had seen neither
enemies nor boats. The dread which the natives appear to have of these
koorie, or islanders, is almost equal to their fear of the Tuaricks;
but the former are less rapacious and bloody in their visits. Their
habitations are three or four days distant to the southward of east,
towards the centre of the lake.
In the evening I visited the town of Lari: it stands on an eminence,
and may probably contain two thousand inhabitants. The huts are built
of the rush which grows by the sides of the lake, have conical tops,
and look very like well thatched stacks of corn in England. They
have neat inclosures round them, made with fences of the same reed,
and passages leading to them like labyrinths. In the inclosure is a
goat or two, poultry, and sometimes a cow. The women were almost all
spinning cotton, which grows well, though not abundantly, near the
town and lake. The interior of the huts is neat: they are completely
circular, with no admission for air or light, except at the door,
which has a mat, by way of safeguard. I entered one of the best
appearance, although the owner gave me no smiles of encouragement,
and followed close at my heels, with his spear and dagger in his
hand. In one corner stood the bed, a sofa of rushes lashed together,
and supported by six poles, fixed strongly in the ground. This
was covered by the skins of the tiger-cat and wild bull; round the
sides were hung the wooden bowls, used for water and milk: his tall
shield rested against the wall. The hut had a division of mat-work,
one half being allotted to the female part of the family. My host,
however, continued to look at me with so much suspicion, and seemed
so little pleased with my visit, notwithstanding all my endeavours
to assure him I was a friend, that I hurried from the inhospitable
door, and resumed my walk through the town.
Feb. 6.—A gratifying scene took place this morning, in the departure
of nearly thirty freed slaves, natives of Kanem, who here left us
for their homes, three days’ journey to the eastward. I had been
applied to, the night before, to intercede with Boo Khaloom for this
indulgence; for as he had heard that the sheikh was at war with some
of the chiefs of Kanem, he had determined on first taking them to
Bornou, for fear of their being plundered on the road of the little
they had saved in slavery. These poor creatures had, however, found
one or two of their countrymen at the market of Lari, who assured them
of their safety on the road between that place and their homes. The
good man complied with evident reluctance on their own account, and
they took leave, kissing his hand, with tears and blessings. They had
most of them been in the service of the bashaw, some for a term of
years, and were returning to die at home at last. One poor deaf and
dumb woman, whom the rapacity of Mukni, the former sultan of Fezzan,
who spared neither age, sex, nor infirmity, had induced him to march
to Tripoli, had shed torrents of tears ever since she had been made
acquainted, by signs, that she was to go to Bornou. She had left
two children behind her; and the third, which was in her arms when
she was taken by the Arabs, had been torn from her breast after the
first ten days of her journey across the desert, in order that she
might keep up with the camels. Her expressive motions in describing
the manner in which the child was forced from her, and thrown on the
sand, where it was left to perish, while whips were applied to her,
lame and worn out as she was, to quicken her tottering steps, were
highly eloquent and interesting. They had all been my friends for
more than five months, and to some I had rendered little services by
carrying their bag of zumeeta, or salt. They were not ungrateful, and
our parting had something in it affecting, which, considering negroes
in the degraded light they do, seemed greatly to astonish the Arabs.
On quitting Lari, we immediately plunged into a thickly-planted
forest of acacias, with high underwood; and at the distance of only
a few hundred yards from the town, we came upon large heaps of the
elephants’ dung, forming hillocks three and four feet in height,
and marks of their footsteps: the tracks of these animals increased
as we proceeded. Part of the day our road lay along the banks of the
Tchad, and the elephants’ footmarks, of an immense size, and only
a few hours old, were in abundance. Whole trees were broken down,
where they had fed: and where they had reposed their ponderous
bodies, young trees, shrubs, and underwood, had been crushed
beneath their weight. We also killed this day an enormous snake,
a species of coluber; it was a most disgusting, horrible animal,
but not however venomous. It measured eighteen feet from the mouth
to the tail; it was shot by five balls, and was still moving off,
when two Arabs, with each a sword, nearly severed the head from
the body. On opening the belly, several pounds of fat were found,
and carefully taken off by the two native guides who accompanied
us. This they pronounced a sovereign remedy for sick and diseased
cattle, and much prized amongst them. Scarcely a mile further, a
drove of wild red cattle, which I at first took for deer, were seen
bounding to the west. I had no gun, but got extremely close to them,
and found they were what the Arabs call “bugra-hammar-wahash”
(red cow wild). They appeared to partake of the bullock and buffalo,
with a tuft or lump on the shoulder.
We bivouacked near a small parcel of huts, called Nyagami, in
a beautiful spot, so thick of wood, that we could scarcely find
a clear place for our encampment. While the tents were fixing, an
alarm was given of wild boars: one of our party followed the scent,
and, on his return, said he had seen a lion, and near him seven
gazelles. I could not, however, find from the natives, that lions
were ever seen here: numerous other animals appeared to abound,
and that confirmed the opinion.
Feb. 7.—We moved for Woodie about eight, accompanied by two
Arabs of Boo-Saif. I left the kafila, and proceeded a little to the
westward, making a parallel movement with the camels. Birds of the
most beautiful plumage were perched on every tree. Guinea fowls were
in flocks of eighty or one hundred; and several monkeys chattered
at us so impudently, that, separating one from the rest, we chased
him for nearly half an hour: he did not run very fast, or straight
forward, but was constantly doubling and turning, with his head over
his shoulder, to see who was close to him. He was a handsome fellow,
of a light brown colour, and black about the muzzle. About noon we
came on a village of huts, called Barrah; and although only three in
number, the natives flew in all directions. On our approaching the
town, we beckoned to them, and got off our horses, for the purpose
of giving them confidence, and sat down under the shade of a large
tamarind tree. An old negro, who spoke a little Arabic, was the
first who ventured to approach: seeing that he was not ill-treated,
the others soon followed his example. I begged a little leban (sour
milk), a most refreshing beverage after a hot ride, but none was
to be found, until they were assured that I should pay for it; and
at the sight of the dollar they all jumped and skipped like so many
monkeys. Some biscuit, which I carried in my saddle-cloth pocket, and
now began to eat, created much astonishment, and the first to whom
I gave some, refused to eat it. One, rather bolder than the rest,
put a small piece into his mouth, and pronounced it good, with such
extravagant gestures, that my visitors all became so clamorous, that
my stock was speedily demolished. I refused for a long time the man
who had been suspicious at first, to the great amusement of the rest,
who seemed to like the joke amazingly.
I had promised the Arabs to share with them a sheep, provided they
did not help themselves, and now made signs of my wish to purchase
one. Two men went off to bring, as they said, a fat one. After a
short time had elapsed, during which they had been delighted with the
opening and shutting of my pocket-knife, a very miserable sheep was
brought to me, which they seriously endeavoured to make me understand
was a very fine one. The Arabs declared it to be good for nothing;
and, therefore, though unwilling to be displeased, I quickly returned
my dollar to my pocket, and made a motion towards my horse. The whole
tribe, to my great astonishment, shouted out, and began to push about
the vender of the sheep, and dance round me. Another very fine fat
sheep was now brought forward from behind the crowd: offering the
other first seemed a trick, in order to try whether I should find out
the lean from the fat one; and although much sagacity was not required
for this, it appeared to have raised me very much in their estimation.
The little nest of thatched huts in which they lived was most
beautifully situated on a rising spot, in the midst of a rich
and luxuriant, though not thick forest, about three miles to the
north-east of Woodie; and the wells, which stand in a dell, thickly
planted with palms (the first we had seen on this side of the desert),
had troughs for more than a hundred and fifty cattle to drink at. One
of the old men accompanied us, while his son carried the carcass of
the sheep to Woodie, for which service he was rewarded by two coral
beads, and a little snuff.
Close to the town we found the tents. Our party had made about
fourteen miles, without leaving the banks of the lake at any great
distance. Two elephants were seen swimming in the lake this day;
and one, belonging to a drove at a distance, absolutely remained
just before the kafila. Hillman had gone on in front on his mule,
suffering sadly from weakness and fatigue, and had laid himself
down in what appeared a delightful shade, to await the arrival of
the camels, not expecting to see an elephant. He was absolutely
reposing within a dozen yards of a very large one, without being
aware of it; and on an Arab’s striking the animal with a spear,
he roared out and moved off. Poor Hillman’s alarm was extreme.
Feb. 8.—On walking to the shores of the lake this morning, soon
after sunrise, I was surprised to see how the water had encroached
since the day before. More than two miles of the wood was entirely
overflowed—the cotton plantations were covered with water. Were
the lands cleared of wood, which would not be a laborious task, as
the trees are mostly tulloh, and not large, almost any thing might
be produced.
Feb. 9.—The courier had been sent off a second time, after being
re-clothed and re-mounted, to receive the sheikh’s orders, and we
were not to proceed beyond Woodie until his pleasure was known. So
jealous and so suspicious are these negro princes of the encroachment
of the Arabs, that divers were the speculations as to whether the
sheikh would, or would not, allow them to proceed with us nearer
his capital.
A weekly fsug, or market, was held about a mile from the town;
and the women flocking from the neighbouring negro villages,
mounted on bullocks, who have a thong of hide passed through the
cartilage of the nose when young, and are managed with great ease,
had a curious appearance: a skin is spread on the animal’s back,
upon which, after hanging the different articles they take for sale,
they mount themselves; milk, sour and sweet, a little honey, fowls,
gussub, gafooly, are amongst their wares, fat and _meloheea_ (ochra),
a green herb, which, with bazeen, all negroes eat voraciously, and
indeed Christians too, as I afterwards found out. The men brought
oxen, sheep, goats, and slaves: the latter were few in number,
and in miserable condition.
Woodie is a capital, or as they say, Blad Kebir, and is governed by
a sheikh, who is a eunuch, and a man of considerable importance:
they appear to have all the necessaries of life in abundance, and
are the most indolent people I ever met with. The women spin a little
cotton, and weave it into a coarse cloth of about six inches’ width;
the men either lie idling in their huts all day, or in the shade of
a building, formed by four supporters and a thatched roof, which
stands in an open space amongst the huts: this is also the court
of justice and place of prayers. The men are considerably above the
common stature, and of an athletic make; but have an expression of
features particularly dull and heavy. The town stands about one mile
west of the Tchad, four short days’ march from Bornou. Game of
all descriptions comes to within a stone’s-throw of their doors,
and the lake abounds with fish and water-fowl; yet have they so
little exertion, that a few fish was almost the only produce of
their labour which was offered for sale.
The women, like the Tibboo, have a square piece of blue or white
cloth, tied over one shoulder, which forms their whole covering: their
hair is however curiously and laboriously trained, and I observed
that no one of tender years had any thing like a perfect head of
hair. From childhood the head is shaved, leaving only the top covered;
the hair from hence falls down quite round from the forehead to the
pole of the neck, and is then formed into one solid plait, which in
front lying quite flat just over the eyes, and behind being turned
up with a little curl, has just the appearance of an old-fashioned
coachman’s wig in England: some of them are, however, very pretty.
Feb. 10.—I this morning went to the eastward, in order to see the
extent of the forest, and also, if possible, to get a sight of the
herd, of upwards of one hundred and fifty elephants, which some of
the Arabs had seen the day before while their camels were feeding. I
was not disappointed. I found them about six miles from the town,
in the grounds annually overflowed by the waters of the lake,
where the coarse grass is twice the height of a man: they seemed
to cover the face of the country, and, I should think, exceeded
the number I had expected to see. When the waters flow over these
their pasturages, they are forced by hunger to approach the towns,
and spread devastation throughout their march; whole plantations,
the hopes of the inhabitants for the next year, are sometimes
destroyed in a single night. Nothing, however, more ferocious than
large antelopes, with a fox and wild hog or two, was to be seen,
besides elephants, although I beat every thicket. We had followed
about half a dozen of these antelopes for more than three hours,
who merely changed their place without ever getting out of sight,
but never allowed us to get near enough to hazard a shot. When quite
fatigued, I determined on making for some distant huts, and begging a
little milk, sweet or sour. No knowing landlady of a country inn ever
scanned the character of her customer more than did this untaught,
though cunning negro, whom we found there. He first denied that he
had any, notwithstanding the bowls were full scarcely ten paces
behind him; and then asked, what I had got to pay for it? I had
really nothing; and after offering my pocket-handkerchief, which
was returned to me as not worth any thing, I was about to depart,
though ten long miles from the tents, thirsty as I was, when the Arab
pointed to a needle, which was sticking in my jacket: for this and a
white bead which the Arab produced, we had a bowl of fine milk and
a basket of nuts, which refreshed us much; and we returned home by
the lake, where I shot two birds—one a very fine crane, and the
other of the woodpecker species, and saw a flock of at least five
hundred pelicans, but could not get near enough to fire at them.
The whole surface of the country for the last eighteen days had been
covered with a grass which produced a calyx so full of prickles as
to annoy us almost to misery: these prickles were of the finest and
most penetrating sharpness that can be imagined; they attached to
every part of our dress; and so small were the points, that it was
impossible to extract them without their breaking and leaving a part
behind: if we walked, at every step we were obliged to clear them
from our feet—mats, blankets, trowsers, were filled with these
irritating annoyances, so that there was no getting rid of them, by
day or night; in short, no part of the body was free from them. The
seed from this grass is called kashcia, and is eaten[21].
Feb. 11.—Two of the sheikh’s officers arrived last night, with
letters, and a present of goroo nuts of Soudan: they have a pleasant
bitter taste, and are much esteemed by all the Tripoli people. After
eating these nuts, water has a grateful flavour, be it ever so
bad: the Arabs call them the coffee of the black country. These
letters pressed Boo Khaloom to continue his march towards Kouka,
with all his people—a very great proof of his confidence in the
peaceable disposition of our chief. The men were clothed with a
bornouse each, a turban, and a red cap; and after giving us fifteen
bullocks, six sheep, and seventeen kail of gussub, returned home,
promising that fresh supplies should be prepared for his people at
Yeou, two days’ march nearer Bornou. It was nearly dark when we
reached a town called Burwha. We had travelled at a considerable
distance from the lake after the first four miles of our journey,
which here sweeps off greatly to the east.
Burwha is a walled town, and the first negro one we had seen: it may
be called in this country a place of some strength; in proof of which
the inhabitants have always defied the Tuarick marauders, who never
entered the town: the walls may be about thirteen or fourteen feet
high, and have a dry ditch, which runs quite round them. The town
probably covers an extent equal to three square miles, and contains
five or six thousand inhabitants. There is a covered-way, from which
the defenders lance their spears at the besiegers, and instantly
conceal themselves: there are but two gates, which are nearly east
and west; and these being the most vulnerable parts for an enemy
to attack, are defended by mounds of earth thrown up on each side,
and carried out at least twenty yards in front of the gate, and have
nearly perpendicular faces. These advanced posts are always thickly
manned, and they conceive them to be a great defence to their walls:
they cannot, however, calculate upon their being abandoned, as an
enemy once in possession of them would so completely command the
town, that from thence every part of it may be seen. Nevertheless,
Burwha is a strong place, considering the means of attack which the
Arabs have; and we were much struck with its appearance.
Feb. 12.—I rode through the town early this morning, previous
to our move. All the principal huts had their little inclosure,
with a cow or two, some goats and fowls; and I saw a very fine fish,
apparently roasted, or broiled, carried into one of them, on which I
could have breakfasted with great pleasure. Gussub, in large baskets,
and in the straw, was every where to be seen, and the women were
spinning at the doors of most of the huts.
I rode nearly the whole of this day with Min Ali Tahar, the Gundowy
Tibboo sheikh, who was accompanying us to Bornou: he had some little
difference with the sheikh, of whom he was perfectly independent, and
Boo Khaloom, ever politic, undertook to make up the misunderstanding;
thereby not only showing his influence, but securing, in a manner,
the future friendship of Tahar, whose district was always considered
as the most dangerous part of the Tibboo country on the road to
Mourzuk. Tahar was a sharp, intelligent fellow, spoke a little Arabic,
and had often asked me many questions about my country, and my sultan;
but to-day he was more inquisitive than usual.—“Rais Khaleel,”
said he, “what would your sultan do to Min Ali, if he was to go to
England? Would he kill me, or keep me there a prisoner? I should like
to be there for about a month.” I answered, “Certainly neither one
nor the other: he would be much more inclined to make you a handsome
present, and send you back again.” Min Ali. “Oh! I should take
him something; but what could I give him? nothing but the skins of
a dozen ostriches, some elephants’ teeth, and a lion’s skin.”
Ans. “The value of the present could be of no importance to my
sultan; he would look at the intention: befriend his people—remember
the Inglezi that you have seen; and should any more ever find their
way to your tents, give them milk and sheep, and put them in the road
they are going: promise me to do this, and I can almost promise you,
that my sultan shall send you a sword, such a one as Hateeta had on
my return, without your going to England, or giving him any thing.”
Min Ali. “Is he such a man? Barak Allah! What’s his name?”
“George.” “George! Health to George; much of it! _Salam Ali:
George Yassur_. Tell him, Min Ali Tahar wishes him all health and
happiness; that he is a Tibboo who can command a thousand spears, and
fears no man. Is he liberal? Is his heart large? _Gulba Kebir_. Does
he give presents to his people?” “Very much so, indeed; some of
his people think him too generous.” Min Ali. “By the head of
my father! _Raas el Booe!_ they are wrong; the sultan of a great
people should have a large heart, or he is unworthy of them. Who
will succeed him when he dies?” “His brother.” “What is
his name?” “Frederick.” “_Barak Allah!_ I hope he will be
like George, _matlook_, liberal. _Salem Ali! Frederick._ Health to
Frederick! How many wives have they?” “No Englishman has more than
one,” said I. “_A gieb! a gieb!_ Wonderful! wonderful! why they
should have a hundred.” “No! no! we think that a sin,” replied
I. “Wallah! really (literally, by G—!) why I have four now; and
I have had more than sixty. Her I like best, however, always says,
one would be more lawful: she may be right. You say she is. You are a
great people. I see you are a great people, and know every thing. I,
a Tibboo, am little better than a gazelle.”
The road to-day was thickly scattered with trees—saw flocks of
red cattle, and killed a wild hog. The hyænas came so close to
the tents last night, that a camel, which lay about a hundred yards
from the enclosure, was found nearly half-eaten. A lion first made a
meal on the poor animal; when the hyænas came down upon what he had
left. We had fires the whole night; and notwithstanding the continued
howlings which these animals kept up until daylight, our rest was
but little disturbed.—Halted near a water, called Chugelarem. We
had now about eleven miles to make, previous to arriving at Yeou.
13th.—Chugelarem, though said to be a branch of the Tchad, was
merely a still water, increased considerably by the overflowings of
that lake in the wet season: the bottom was muddy, and nowhere deeper
than two feet. The camels, horses, and followers of the kafila,
waded through it without being much above their knees: it takes
a zigzag direction, going first to the east, then to the north,
and then to the east again.
We proceeded south, passing several very neat negro villages;
and after about eleven miles, came to a very considerable stream,
called the Yeou, in some parts more than fifty yards wide, with a
fine hard sandy bottom, and banks nearly perpendicular, and with
a strong current running three miles and a half in an hour to the
eastward. As I expected, every one of the Arabs said this was the
Nile, and that it ran into the great water the Tchad. A town of the
same name stands on the south side of the river, which the inhabitants
were unanimous in saying came from Soudan. It is at times double the
width, and considerably deeper, and two canoes now lay upon the sand,
in which the goods and passengers of kafilas passing in the wet season
are conveyed across. The camels and horses swim with their heads made
fast to the canoes. These canoes were of the rudest manufacture,
and were formed of planks, rudely shaped by a small hatchet, and
strongly fastened together by cords passed through holes bored
in them, and a wisp of straw between, which they say effectually
keeps out the water: they have high poops like the Grecian boats,
and would hold twenty or thirty persons. The air from a running
stream of clear water, and the freshness it imparted to all around,
was such a relief after a march through sandy deserts, that both
man and beast were in a manner renovated by its effects. The men,
and even the women, bathed and washed, and the negroes swam all the
horses. We here received ten bullocks by the sheikh’s order, to
make up the fifteen which he had directed to be given to Boo Khaloom,
and the remainder of the seventeen kail (loads) of gussub which was
to accompany them.
Feb. 14.—Visited Yeou, which is a neat town of huts, walled,
but not above half the size of Burwha, and proceeded fourteen
miles, when we came to a well. Here we should have remained with
our tired camels and horses; but the numerous negro parties, with
from two to twelve laden oxen, all said another well was _grieb_
(near). Boo Khaloom, therefore, determined on proceeding to the next
_maten_, or halting-place: some of the group were picturesque in the
extreme; the women all laden with some purchase at the market, and
the naked black children mounted on the tops of the loaded bullocks;
and after twelve additional miles, an hour and a half after sunset,
we came to a halt, but without arriving at the well. The branches
of the trees hung so much over the road, and impeded the movements
of the camels so greatly, that it was past ten o’clock at night
before some of them came up.
Feb. 15.—We found the well, _kalielwa_, just off the road,
nearly four miles nearer Bornou, and we were to push the camels
on as far as possible, in order that the day after we might enter
Kouka, the residence of the sheikh, in Arab form, and at an early
hour. The road branched off in two directions: the one to the west
led towards Kouka. Soon after this we came to a well and small town,
and after sunset another; near the latter of which a Fezzaneer in
the service of the sheikh met us, with a request that we would pitch
our tents near a dead water called Dowergoo, a few miles further
on, and remain the next day, as the huts that had been preparing
were not ready. About eight we came to this piece of still water,
abounding with wild fowl, having a village near it, called Gurdawa.
Feb. 16.—Halted. Our visitors here were not very numerous, although
we were not above one hour’s journey from the sheikh’s residence,
Kouka. Various were the reports as to the opinion the sheikh formed
of the force which accompanied Boo-Khaloom: all agreed, however,
that we were to be received at some distance from the town, by a
considerable body of troops; both as a compliment to the bashaw,
and to show his representative how well prepared he was against any
attempt of those who chose to be his enemies.
One of the Arabs brought to me this day a Balearic crane; it measured
thirteen feet from wing to wing.
Feb. 17.—This was to us a momentous day, and it seemed to be equally
so to our conductors. Notwithstanding all the difficulties that had
presented themselves at the various stages of our journey, we were at
last within a few short miles of our destination; were about to become
acquainted with a people who had never seen, or scarcely heard of,
a European; and to tread on ground, the knowledge and true situation
of which had hitherto been wholly unknown. These ideas of course
excited no common sensations; and could scarcely be unaccompanied
by strong hopes of our labours being beneficial to the race amongst
whom we were shortly to mix; of our laying the first stone of a work
which might lead to their civilization, if not their emancipation from
all their prejudices and ignorance, and probably, at the same time,
open a field of commerce to our own country, which might increase
its wealth and prosperity. Our accounts had been so contradictory of
the state of this country, that no opinion could be formed as to the
real condition or the numbers of its inhabitants. We had been told
that the sheikh’s soldiers were a few ragged negroes armed with
spears, who lived upon the plunder of the Black Kaffir countries,
by which he was surrounded, and which he was enabled to subdue by
the assistance of a few Arabs who were in his service; and, again,
we had been assured that his forces were not only numerous, but to
a certain degree well trained. The degree of credit which might
be attached to these reports was nearly balanced in the scales
of probability; and we advanced towards the town of Kouka in a
most interesting state of uncertainty, whether we should find its
chief at the head of thousands, or be received by him under a tree,
surrounded by a few naked slaves.
These doubts, however, were quickly removed. I had ridden on a
short distance in front of Boo-Khaloom, with his train of Arabs,
all mounted, and dressed out in their best apparel; and, from the
thickness of the trees, soon lost sight of them, fancying that the
road could not be mistaken. I rode still onwards, and on approaching
a spot less thickly planted, was not a little surprised to see in
front of me a body of several thousand cavalry drawn up in line,
and extending right and left quite as far as I could see; and,
checking my horse, I awaited the arrival of my party, under the
shade of a wide-spreading acacia. The Bornou troops remained quite
steady, without noise or confusion; and a few horsemen, who were
moving about in front giving directions, were the only persons out
of the ranks. On the Arabs appearing in sight, a shout, or yell,
was given by the sheikh’s people, which rent the air: a blast was
blown from their rude instruments of music equally loud, and they
moved on to meet Boo-Khaloom and his Arabs. There was an appearance
of tact and management in their movements which astonished me: three
separate small bodies, from the centre and each flank, kept charging
rapidly towards us, to within a few feet of our horses’ heads,
without checking the speed of their own until the moment of their
halt, while the whole body moved onwards. These parties were mounted
on small but very perfect horses, who stopped, and wheeled from their
utmost speed with great precision and expertness, shaking their spears
over their heads, exclaiming, “_Barca! barca! Alla hiakkum cha,
alla cheraga!_—Blessing! blessing! Sons of your country! Sons of
your country!” and returning quickly to the front of the body, in
order to repeat the charge. While all this was going on, they closed
in their right and left flanks, and surrounded the little body of
Arab warriors so completely, as to give the compliment of welcoming
them very much the appearance of a declaration of their contempt
for their weakness. I am quite sure this was premeditated; we were
all so closely pressed as to be nearly smothered, and in some danger
from the crowding of the horses and clashing of the spears. Moving
on was impossible; and we therefore came to a full stop: our chief
was much enraged, but it was all to no purpose, he was only answered
by shrieks of “Welcome!” and spears most unpleasantly rattled
over our heads expressive of the same feeling. This annoyance was
not however of long duration; Barca Gana, the sheikh’s first
general, a negro of a noble aspect, clothed in a figured silk tobe,
and mounted on a beautiful Mandara horse, made his appearance; and,
after a little delay, the rear was cleared of those who had pressed
in upon us, and we moved on, although but very slowly, from the
frequent impediment thrown in our way by these wild equestrians.
The sheikh’s negroes, as they were called, meaning the black chiefs
and favourites, all raised to that rank by some deed of bravery, were
habited in coats of mail composed of iron chain, which covered them
from the throat to the knees, dividing behind, and coming on each
side of the horse: some of them had helmets, or rather skullcaps,
of the same metal, with chin-pieces, all sufficiently strong to ward
off the shock of a spear. Their horses’ heads were also defended
by plates of iron, brass, and silver, just leaving sufficient room
for the eyes of the animal.
At length, on arriving at the gate of the town, ourselves,
Boo-Khaloom, and about a dozen of his followers, were alone allowed
to enter the gates; and we proceeded along a wide street completely
lined with spearmen on foot, with cavalry in front of them, to the
door of the sheikh’s residence. Here the horsemen were formed up
three deep, and we came to a stand: some of the chief attendants came
out, and after a great many “Barca’s! Barca’s!” retired,
when others performed the same ceremony. We were now again left
sitting on our horses in the sun: Boo-Khaloom began to lose all
patience, and swore by the bashaw’s head, that he would return
to the tents if he was not immediately admitted: he got, however,
no satisfaction but a motion of the hand from one of the chiefs,
meaning “wait patiently;” and I whispered to him the necessity
of obeying as we were hemmed in on all sides, and to retire without
permission would have been as difficult as to advance. Barca Gana now
appeared, and made a sign that Boo-Khaloom should dismount: we were
about to follow his example, when an intimation that Boo-Khaloom was
alone to be admitted again fixed us to our saddles. Another half hour
at least passed without any news from the interior of the building;
when the gates opened, and the four Englishmen only were called for,
and we advanced to the skiffa (entrance). Here we were stopped most
unceremoniously by the black guards in waiting, and were allowed,
one by one only, to ascend a staircase; at the top of which we were
again brought to a stand by crossed spears, and the open flat hand
of a negro laid upon our breast. Boo-Khaloom came from the inner
chamber, and asked “If we were prepared to salute the sheikh as we
did the bashaw?” We replied “Certainly:” which was merely an
inclination of the head, and laying the right hand on the heart. He
advised our laying our hands also on our heads, but we replied,
“the thing was impossible! we had but one manner of salutation
for any body, except our own sovereign.”
[Illustration: From a Sketch by Major Denham.
Engraved by E. Finden.
BODY GUARD OF THE SHEIKH OF BORNOU.
_Published Feb. 1826, by John Murray, London._]
Another parley now took place, but in a minute or two he returned,
and we were ushered into the presence of this Sheikh of Spears. We
found him in a small dark room, sitting on a carpet, plainly dressed
in a blue tobe of Soudan and a shawl turban. Two negroes were on
each side of him, armed with pistols, and on his carpet lay a brace
of these instruments. Fire-arms were hanging in different parts
of the room, presents from the bashaw and Mustapha L’Achmar,
the sultan of Fezzan, which are here considered as invaluable. His
personal appearance was prepossessing, apparently not more than
forty-five or forty-six, with an expressive countenance, and a
benevolent smile. We delivered our letter from the bashaw; and after
he had read it, he inquired “what was our object in coming?” We
answered, “to see the country merely, and to give an account of
its inhabitants, produce, and appearance; as our sultan was desirous
of knowing every part of the globe.” His reply was, “that we
were welcome! and whatever he could show us would give him pleasure:
that he had ordered huts to be built for us in the town; and that we
might then go, accompanied by one of his people, to see them; and
that when we were recovered from the fatigue of our long journey,
he would be happy to see us.” With this we took our leave.
Our huts were little round mud buildings, placed within a wall, at
no great distance from the residence of the sheikh: the inclosure was
quadrangular, and had several divisions formed by partitions of straw
mats, where nests of huts were built, and occupied by the stranger
merchants who accompanied the kafila: one of these divisions was
assigned to us, and we crept into the shade of our earthy dwellings,
not a little fatigued with our entré and presentation.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 9: The surface is of a dark colour, with here and there
patches and streaks of a snowy white. It is uneven from the heaping,
as it were, of large flat clods on each other: these are all hollow
underneath, and have a very uneven surface, from the number of
projections. What I have remarked was observed in all the salt fields
we have seen. The heaping of the salty clods, and the circulation of
air underneath, are phenonema attending this formation which it is
difficult to explain—Are they the production of art, or of nature
alone? In the numerous gardens at Traghan, and other places left
fallow, we observe, on the small scale, an appearance like this,
and the earthy clods soon became strongly impregnated with salt: the
degree is not comparable to what is seen in the large salt plain. The
salt is of two kinds; one a white snowy-looking efflorescence, that
is often several inches thick, the other with an earthy-coloured
shining surface.—W. O.]
[Footnote 10: The sand of a fine cream colour: yesterday it had many
particles of a black substance mixed with it.
Exposed rocks, sandstone of different kinds, mostly red, and a black
kind like basalt from iron; fine specimens of petrified wood; the
centre, sap, vessels and knots filled with a calcareous matter,
the woody fibre changed into a siliceous substance; beautiful
conical layers, and lines running like rays, from the centre to the
circumference. Many columnar mounds of clay in the first basin,
about ten feet high—the clay as if semi-baked: many are round,
and the one we went to about thirty feet in circumference; these
were probably the original height of the surface: the present form
arises from the other part being washed away.
The depth of the well at Meshroo is from sixteen to twenty feet: the
water good, and free from saline impregnations: the ground around is
strewed with human skeletons, the slaves who have arrived exhausted
with thirst and fatigue. The horrid consequences of the slave trade
were strongly brought to our mind; and, although its horrors are not
equal to those of the European trade, still they are sufficient to
call up every sympathy, and rouse up every spark of humanity. They
are dragged over deserts, water often fails, and provisions scarcely
provided for the long and dreary journey. The Moors ascribe the
numbers to the cruelty of the Tibboo traders: there is, perhaps,
too much truth in the accusation. Every few miles a skeleton was
seen through the whole day; some were partially covered with sand,
others with only a small mound, formed by the wind: one hand often lay
under the head, and frequently both, as if in the act of compressing
the head. The skin and membranous substance all shrivel up, and dry
from the state of the air: the thick muscular and internal parts
only decay.
Course through basins, having low, rugged, conical hills to the
eastward. The hills have a great similarity of geological structure
to those of western Fezzan and Ghraat.
[Illustration:
_a_ _b_ Sandstone of fine texture, of a black colour, giving it the
appearance of basalt.
_c_ Aluminous shistus.
_d_ Clay iron stone, with here and there strata of bluish clay.
_e_ Fine white sandstone, mixed with a large quantity of lime.]
There is a fine blue, very hard stone, with slender white lime
streaks, forming the surface of many of the lower grounds, evidently
of recent formation. A similar formation is seen in the large sterile
plain between the hills of Fezzan to the westward, and the Tuarick
range: the fine white sandstone is found deep in the same hills;
the aluminous slate in abundance. The kind of sandstone, the other
rocks and similarity of appearance, show a sameness of geological
structure as far as we have gone.
From a fine pass between two of the hills, the view from above had
something of the grand. A rocky and sandy space, about two hundred
yards broad, bounded on each side by a high rugged black hill, below
a fine level plain, with low hills in the distance. The descent of
the camels fine, and accomplished without an accident.
[Illustration:
_a_ sandstone.
_b_ red and yellow iron ore, in very thick beds.
_c_ sandstone.
_d_ white shistus.
_e_ white sandstone.]
The surface of the plain has strata of a slatiform blue stone;
frequently, however, massive, and so hard as not to be scratched by
iron; imbedded in it is a large quantity of periform iron ore. After
traversing this plain, we ascended a low hilly range, and passed
across its stony surface. From here we saw El-Wahr, or Difficult: it
is between two high hills. We passed many skeletons, both of human
beings and camels, which always kept us in mind of the dangers we
were exposed to.—W. O.]
[Footnote 11: El-Wahr. The surface sandy till we approached
the hills, then it changed to stony. The black hills with cones,
peaks, and a columnar-looking cap, reminded us of what we had seen
before. The gloom of these places in the dusk has something grand
and awful. We winded up, with the light of a moon not a quarter
old, and that lessened by a cloudy sky. Some sandy and pebbly beds,
as of a stream, and in one place high clayey banks, with iron ore
underneath. Skeletons lay about, mangled in a shocking manner; here
a leg, there an arm, fixed with their ligaments, at considerable
distances from the trunk. What could have done this? Man forced by
hunger, or the camels? The latter are very fond of chewing dried
bones, but whether they ever do so to those with dried flesh on them,
I cannot say.—W. O.]
[Footnote 12: Several of our camels are drunk to-day: their eyes are
heavy, and want animation; gait staggering, and every now and then,
falling as a man in a state of intoxication. It arose from eating
dates after drinking water; these probably pass into the spirituous
fermentation in the stomach.—W. O.]
[Footnote 13: Our road by the side of detached hills, and several
small chains, having rocky and sandy windings among them. The detached
hills were mostly conical, with fine columnar tops, as if capped
with basalt,—all, however, was of sandstone. The sombre appearance
and solitariness of the situations, the form of the hills, and the
dreariness of nature around, gave a gloomy cast to every object, which
the beauty and life of a large kafila could not eradicate.—W. O.]
[Footnote 14: The Tibboos were positive as to this distance, which
we could scarcely credit; they must mean, however, Tuarick days,
or a _maherhy_, equal to forty miles at least.]
[Footnote 15: We passed two salt water lakes at a short distance
on the west, which add much to the beauty of the scenery. There
is something to-day quite cheering: large groves of palm trees,
many beautiful acacias both in flower and fruit, and two fine,
small salt lakes. The lakes are about two miles in circumference,
have salt islands, and marshy borders: no salt, I believe, is taken
from them. They are the abodes of a beautiful bird of the plover
species.—W. O.]
[Footnote 16: The lakes have marshy borders, and high salt islands,
as if formed by man, which however are natural, and, the people say,
have existed since their remembrance. The saline materials are a
carbonate and muriate of soda: we saw no incrustations on the bottom
or surface: at this season, the same is the case in the Bahr-Trona,
in Fezzan. Each lake is not more than half or three-fourths of a
mile in circumference.—W. O.]
[Footnote 17: The hills run nearly north and south, edging a
little to the westward; they have numerous small bays or recesses,
which produce a fine echo; many places with saline incrustations,
and some of the large black patches like the frozen surface of a
recently ploughed field. Almost all the salt formations are in low,
protected situations; the water is near; and, often in the very
centre, you have fine fresh springs.—From whence is this salt
derived? I have already suggested that the air has a powerful effect,
and is a principal agent. There is no reason to believe there are
large subterranean salt beds; if these existed to any great extent,
we should not have the fresh springs so prevalent.—W. O.]
[Footnote 18: We had a fine wadey the greater part of the way,
and many patches of saline incrustations; some exposed beds of red
sandstone, containing numerous nodules of iron ore. Hills of much
blacker colour; and a few have the appearance as of ruins of towns and
castles, on their summits. Passed three springs, like the oozings at
Traghen. A large tract of black surface, as if the situation of an
extensive salt bed, from which the salt had only been removed a few
years; it extends more than four or five miles to the eastward, and
was more than a mile across, on our road. It is black and crispy,
but has none of the irregular heapings taken notice of in other
salt plains.
There is another small town about two miles to the westward, of the
same name. Round it are a number of mud elevations, which appear as
if produced by mud volcanoes; but these are artificial, and made for
the preparation of salt. I had long wished to see the extensive salt
plain that afforded such copious supplies: originally, no doubt,
the large spaces I have several times noticed afforded abundance,
but the re-production could not keep up with the quantity taken
away. Art was employed to _obtain_ Nature; shallow pits were dug,
which soon filled with water, and its evaporation left thick layers
of salt: high embankments were raised round these, evidently to
prevent currents of air. These places have much the look of our
tanyards, with small pits partitioned from each other. The water is
now strongly impregnated; in summer a thick crust is formed, which
is the salt in use. One of these works apparently yields a large
quantity of salt every year. When removed, the sordes are heaped
up on the embankments. In the recesses there are many stalactites,
of a beautiful white colour, which consist of muriate and carbonate
of soda.
The great mystery is, the origin of the salt in all situations in
which the water is near the surface, and the inclemency of the _water_
prevented by shelter. It is highly probable all this vast country was
once a salt ocean; its height is nothing, considering its distance
inland. What effect has the want, or almost want of rain,—for, as
far as I can learn, no salt formations exist within the boundaries of
the rains? There are many fine fresh springs issuing from the soil,
and none of the wells are brackish; when the water, however, remains
some time stagnant, it gets impregnated with saline matter.—W. O.]
[Footnote 19: Some curious tubular, hollow, coralliform productions
were picked up in the sand: they appear of very recent formation,
and evidently produced by rain and wind acting on the sand. The
particles are most minute; when broken, the substance has a shining
glassy appearance: some lie horizontally, but the general position is
perpendicular. The external surface is rough: the size varies, both
in length and circumference, from a few lines to an inch and a half
in the latter, and from an inch to a foot in the former direction.
The wells are holes, about eighteen inches deep: the water has
a slight taste of carbonate of soda, that was strong at first,
but diminished greatly after some water had been drawn. The holes
fill very fast. The saline impregnation arises, very probably, from
the earth around falling, and being blown into the holes. Dibla is
bounded on the north by black sandstone and quartz hills, which
extend some way to the eastward; on the south by sand hills, and
by a winding wadey on the east. In the middle there are several
small conical hillocks with table-tops: the lower part is formed
of a fine schistus, of different colours, that next the base light
and white; over that, green, exactly resembling large well-dried
leaves of plants, which separate into the finest layers; the top is
a black bituminous matter, which crumbles into small pieces by the
slightest touch: these hillocks are from thirty to forty feet high,
the probable height of the valley in former days; and it is not
unlikely that the bituminous matter is a vegetable deposit. There
are a few acacias, but so few, that we could procure no firewood,
and the camels very little food.
A number of round semi-vitrified small stones were found on the
sands, which the people collected to use as bullets. The mode of
formation appears the same as the coralliform substances I have
mentioned. These substances, in great quantities, are said to be
formed after the rains that every now and then occur in this quarter.]
[Footnote 20: There is grass in abundance, and small mounds covered
with a tetrandrous plant, called suag: its fruit a small _drupa_,
which is in great request in Bornou and Soudan, for removing sterility
in females. Boo Khaloom related one instance of a female, who had
been in that state eighteen years, but was cured by the fruit. It
is sweetish and hot to the taste, approaching to the Sisymbrium
nasturtium. In passing the plant, a heavy narcotic smell is always
perceived.—W. O.]
[Footnote 21: There is a very common grass which is grievously
annoying from the prickles on its husk: it adheres to the dress
and penetrates the skin. There is not one prickle, but the calyx is
studded round, and they fasten themselves like grappling irons. These
prickles may be considered one of the pests of the country: there is
scarcely a place free from them. Our dog Niger is unable to walk,
for they have got between his toes, and are adhering to every part
of his long silken hair.]