While we are learning of the plant and animal life about and beneath us,
the good ship bears us swiftly on, and all too soon we are at our
journey's end.
We seem hardly to have left the shadow of Liberty's towering torch in
New York harbor, before the gray walls of Morro Castle appear above the
horizon. Far out at sea, this massive stone fort with its beacon light
attracts our attention.
Across the harbor entrance the white-capped waves rush furiously over
each other in a mad race toward the shore. Passing through this narrow
channel, the ship glides into the harbor under the guns of the two
picturesque old forts which guard it, and we get our first glimpse of
San Juan.
[Illustration: STATUE OF LIBERTY--NEW YORK HARBOR.]
Our first view of this beautiful old city fills us with anticipations
of pleasure. We find that the ground upon which the city lies slopes
upward from the calm, broad harbor to the forts that guard its heights.
Here and there a tall palm-tree rears its graceful head above the tops
of the gayly colored buildings that glisten in the sunlight.
Our guide tells us that San Juan is one of the most perfectly fortified
cities in the world. It is easy to believe this when, from the ocean and
from the bay, we see the massive walls and battlements of the forts that
guard the north and east.
We learn that they are cut from the solid rock which crowns the crest of
the narrow peninsula. The steep walls of the vast castle of San
Cristobal overshadow the whole city.
The city is built on an island, connected with the mainland by a bridge.
It is surrounded by a high, thick stone wall: that is, it was once upon
a time; but the city is now extended far beyond the walls. Inside is the
city proper, or old San Juan. Outside are the more modern buildings and
the suburbs.
San Juan is not only the seat of government, but it is considered the
first city of Puerto Rico in interest and in importance. Ponce, however,
disputes this claim. It has the best harbor, and the best public
buildings, churches and schools on the island.
The palace of the governor-general and the headquarters of the American
administration we find located in San Juan.
Over thirty thousand people make their homes in this city, and a goodly
number of them we find at the shore to meet our vessel. They do not wait
for us to land. They come out to meet us.
Dusky natives in landing boats are soon alongside, and we learn to our
surprise that our ship does not go to the dock. We are to go ashore in
these small awning-covered boats. This is a new experience for us, but
it is an old Spanish custom.
[Illustration: LANDING FROM OUR STEAMER AT SAN JUAN.]
The steward of the ship tells us that we may retain our rooms and use
the ship as a hotel during the stay in port, going ashore for
sight-seeing when we like.
We have heard that the hotels in San Juan are very poor; but of course
we wish to see for ourselves what they are like, and so we decide to
give them a trial.
We are in no hurry to seek the hotels, however. The streets of San Juan
present so many novel sights to our wandering eyes that we wish to look
about first.