«Oak.»—I.—Water-color stains do not penetrate deep enough into wood

to make the effect strong enough, hence solutions of other material

than color are being employed for the purpose. Aqua ammonia alone,

applied with a rag or brush repeatedly, will darken the color of oak

to a weathered effect, but it is not very desirable, because of its

tendency to raise the grain. Bichromate of potash, dissolved in cold

water, applied in a like manner, until the desired depth is obtained,

will serve the purpose. These washes or solutions, however, do not give

the dark, almost black, effect that is at the present time expected for

weathered oak, and in order to produce this, 4 ounces of logwood chips

and 3 ounces of green copperas should be boiled together in 2 quarts of

water for 40 minutes and the solution applied hot. When this has dried

it should be gone over with a wash made from 4 ounces steel filings and

1 pint of strong vinegar. The steel filings are previously put into

the vinegar and allowed to stand for several days. This will penetrate

into the wood deeply, and the stain will be permanent. Picture-frame

manufacturers use a quick-drying stain, made from aniline blacks.

II.—Dissolve 1⁠/⁠4 part of permanganate of potassium in 1,000 parts

of cold water and paint the wood with the violet solution obtained.

As soon as the solution comes in contact with the wood it decomposes

in consequence of chemical action, and a handsome light-brown

precipitate is produced in the wood. The brushes used must be washed

out immediately, as the permanganate of potassium destroys animal

bristles, but it is preferable to use sponges or brushes of glass

threads for staining. Boil 2 parts of cutch in 6 parts of water for 1

hour, stir while boiling, so that the rosiniferous catechu cannot burn

on the bottom of the vessel; strain the liquid as soon as the cutch

is dissolved, through linen, and bring again to a boil. Now dissolve

therein 1⁠/⁠5 part of alum, free from iron; apply the stain while hot,

and cover after the drying, with a solution of 1 part of bichromate of

potassium in 25 parts of water.

«Rosewood.»—First procure 1⁠/⁠2 pound logwood, boiling it in 3 pints

water. Continue the boiling until the liquid assumes a very dark color,

at which point add 1 ounce salt of tartar. When at the boiling point

stain your wood with 2 or 3 coats, but not in quick succession, as the

latest coat must be nearly dry before the succeeding one is applied.

The use of a fiat graining brush, deftly handled, will produce a very

excellent imitation of dark rosewood.

«Silver Gray.»—This stain is prepared by dissolving 1 part of

pyrogallic acid in 25 parts of warm water and the wood is coated with

this. Allow this coating to dry and prepare, meanwhile, a solution of

2 parts of green vitriol in 50 parts of boiling water, with which the

first coating is covered again to obtain the silver-gray shade.

«Walnut.»—I.—Prepare a solution of 6 ounces of a solution of

permanganate of potassium, and 6 ounces of sulphate of magnesia in

2 quarts of hot water. The solution is applied on the wood with a

brush and the application should be repeated once. In contact with

the wood the permanganate decomposes, and a handsome, lasting walnut

color results. If small pieces of wood are to be thus stained, a very

dilute bath is prepared {784} according to the above description, then

the wooden pieces are immersed and left therein from 1 to 5 minutes,

according to whether a lighter or darker coloring is desired.

II.—One hundredweight Vandyke brown, ground fine in water, and 28

pounds of soda, dissolved in hot water, are mixed while the solutions

are hot in a revolving mixer. The mixture is then dried in sheet-iron

trays.

«Yellow.»—The wood is coated with a hot concentrated solution of picric

acid, dried, and polished. (Picric acid is poisonous.)

«IMITATION STAINS.»

Yellow, green, blue, or gray staining on wood can be easily imitated

with a little glazing color in oil or vinegar, which will prove better

and more permanent than the staining. If the pores of the wood are

opened by a lye or a salt, almost any diluted color can be worked into

it. With most stains the surface is thus prepared previously.

«Light-Fast Stains.»—Stains fast to light are obtained by saturating

wood in a vacuum chamber, first with dilute sulphuric acid, then with

dilute alkali to neutralize the acid, and finally with a solution

with or without the addition of a mordant. The action of the acid is

to increase the affinity of the wood for dye very materially. As wood

consists largely of cellulose, mercerization, which always increases

the affinity of that substance for dyes, may be caused to some extent

by the acid.

«SPIRIT STAINS:»

«Black.»—

I.—White shellac 12 ounces

Vegetable black 6 ounces

Methylated spirit 3 pints

II.—Lampblack 1 pound

Ground iron scale 5 pounds

Vinegar 1 gallon

«Mahogany Brown.»—Put into a vessel, say 4 pounds of bichromate of

potash, and as many ounces of burnt umber, let it stand a day or two,

then strain or lawn for use.

«Vandyke Brown.»—

Spirit of wine 2 pints

Burnt umber 3 ounces

Vandyke brown color 1 ounce

Carbonate of soda 1 ounce

Potash 1⁠/⁠2 ounce

«Mahogany.»—Rub the wood with a solution of nitrous acid, and then

apply with a brush the following:

I.—Dragon’s blood 1 ounce

Sodium carbonate 6 drachms

Alcohol 20 ounces

Filter just before use.

II.—Rub the wood with a solution of potassium carbonate, 1 drachm to a

pint of water, and then apply a dye made by boiling together:

Madder 2 ounces

Logwood chips 1⁠/⁠2 ounce

Water 1 quart

«Maple.»—

I.—Pale button lac 3 pounds

Bismarck brown 1⁠/⁠8 ounce

Vandyke brown 1⁠/⁠2 ounce

Gamboge 4 ounces

Methylated spirit 1 gallon

II.—Use 1 gallon of methylated spirit, 4 ounces gamboge (powdered),

1⁠/⁠2 ounce Vandyke brown, 1 drachm Bismarck brown, 3 pounds shellac.

«Maroon.»—To produce a rich maroon or ruby, steep red Janders wood in

rectified naphtha and stir into the solution a little cochineal; strain

or lawn for use.

«Turpentine Stains.»—Turpentine stains are chiefly solutions of

oil-soluble coal-tar dyes in turpentine oil, with small quantities of

wax also in solution. They do not roughen the wood, making a final

polishing unnecessary. They enter the wood slowly, so that an even

stain, especially on large surfaces, is secured. The disadvantages of

turpentine stains are the lack of permanence of the coloring, when

exposed to light and air, and their high price.

«Varnish Stains.»—Shellac is the chief article forming the basis of

varnish stains the coloring matter being usually coal tar or aniline

dyes, as they give better results than dye wood tincture. To prevent

the varnish stain being too brittle, the addition of elemi rosin is a

much better one than common rosin, as the latter retards the drying

quality, and if too much be used, renders the stain sticky.

«Water Stains.»—Water stains are solutions of chemicals, dye extracts,

astringent substances, and coal-tar dyes in water. They roughen the

wood, a disadvantage, however, which can be remedied to a large extent

by previous treatment, as follows: The wood is moistened with a wet

sponge, allowed to dry, {785} and then rubbed with sandpaper, or made

smooth by other agencies. This almost entirely prevents roughening of

the surface by the stain. Another disadvantage of these stains is that

they are rapidly absorbed by the wood, which makes an even staining of

large surfaces difficult. For this too there is a remedy. The surface

of the wood is rubbed all over evenly with raw linseed oil, applied

with a woolen cloth, allowed to dry, and then thoroughly smoothed with

sandpaper. The water stain, applied with a sponge, now spreads evenly,

and is but slightly absorbed by the wood.

Among good water stains are the long-known Cassel brown and nut brown,

in granules. Catechine is recommended for brown shades, with tannin or

pyrogallic acid and green vitriol for gray. For bright-colored stains

the tar-dyes azine green, croceine scarlet, Parisian red, tartrazine,

water-soluble nigrosin, walnut, and oak brown are very suitable. With

proper mixing of these dyes, all colors except blue and violet can

be produced, and prove very fast to light and air, and superior to

turpentine stains. Only the blue and violet dyes, methyl blue, naphthol

blue, and pure violet, do not come up to the standard, and require a

second staining with tannin.

A very simple method of preparing water stains is as follows: Solutions

are made of the dyes most used, by dissolving 500 parts of the dye in

10,000 parts of hot water, and these are kept in bottles or casks.

Any desired stain can be prepared by mixing proper quantities of the

solutions, which can be diluted with water to make lighter stains.

«Stains for Wood Attacked by Alkalies or Acids.»—

_Solution A_

Copper sulphate 125 grams

Potassium chlorate 125 grams

Water 1,000 cu. cm.

Boil until all is dissolved.

_Solution B_

Aniline hydrochloride 150 grams

Water 1,000 cu. cm

Apply Solution A twice by means of a brush, allowing time to dry after

each coat; next, put on Solution B and let dry again. On the day

following, rub on a little oil with a cloth and repeat this once a

month.

«SUBSTITUTES FOR WOOD.»

I.—Acetic paraldehyde or acetic aldehyde respectively, or polymerized

formaldehyde is mixed with methylic alcohol and carbolic acid, as well

as fusel oil saturated with hydrochloric acid gas or sulphuric acid gas

or methylic alcohol, respectively, are added to the mixture. The mass

thus obtained is treated with paraffine. The final product is useful as

a substitute for ebonite and wood as well as for insulating purposes.

II.—“Carton Pierre” is the name of a mass which is used as a substitute

for carved wood. It is prepared in the following manner: Glue is

dissolved and boiled; to this, tissue paper in suitable quantity is

added, which will readily go to pieces. Then linseed oil is added, and

finally chalk is stirred in. The hot mass forms a thick dough which

crumbles in the cold, but softens between the fingers and becomes

kneadable, so that it can be pressed into molds (of glue, gypsum, and

sulphur). After a few days the mass will become dry and almost as hard

as stone. The paper imparts to it a high degree of firmness, and it is

less apt to be injured than wood. It binds well and readily adheres to

wood.

III.—Wood Pulp.—The boards for painters’ utensils are manufactured in

the following manner: The ordinary wood fiber (not the chemical wood

cellulose) is well mixed with soluble glass of 33° Bé., then spread

like cake upon an even surface, and beaten or rolled until smooth.

Before completely dry, the cake is removed, faintly satined (for

various other purposes it is embossed) and finally dried thoroughly

at a temperature of about 133° F., whereupon the mass may be sawed,

carved, polished, etc., like wood.

Any desired wood color can be obtained by the admixture of the

corresponding pulverized pigment to the mass. The wood veining is

produced by placing a board of the species of timber to be imitated, in

vinegar, which causes the soft parts of the wood to deepen, and making

an impression with the original board thus treated upon the wood pulp

when the latter is not quite hard. By means of one of these original

boards (with the veins embossed), impressions can be made upon a large

number of artificial wood plates. The veins will show to a greater

advantage if the artificial wood is subsequently saturated and treated

with colored oil, colored stain and colored polish, as is done with

palettes.

WOOD, ACID-PROOF: See Acid-Proofing.

WOOD CEMENTS: See Adhesives. {786}

WOOD, CHLORINE-PROOFING: See Acid-Proofing.

WOOD, FIREPROOFING: See Fireproofing.

WOOD GILDING: See Plating.

WOOD, IMITATION: See Plaster.

WOOD POLISHES: See Polishes.

WOOD RENOVATORS: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods under Paint,

Varnish, and Enamel Removers.

WOOD, SECURING METALS TO: See Adhesives.

WOOD, WATERPROOFING: See Waterproofing.

WOOD’S METAL: See Alloys.

WOOL FAT: See Fats.

WORM POWDER FOR STOCK: See Veterinary Formulas.

«WRITING, RESTORING FADED:»

Writing on old manuscripts, parchments, and old letters that has faded

into nearly or complete invisibility can be restored by rubbing over

it a solution of ammonium sulphide, hydrogen sulphide or of “liver

of sulphur.” On parchment the restored color is fairly permanent but

on paper it does not last long. The letters however could be easily

retraced, after such treatment, by the use of India ink and thus made

permanent. This treatment will not restore faded aniline ink. It only

works with ink containing a metal-like iron that forms a black sulphide.

WRINKLES, REMOVAL OF: See Cosmetics.

«Yeast»

«DRY YEAST.»

Boil together for 1⁠/⁠2 hour, 95 parts of the finest, grated hops and

4,000 parts of water. Strain. Add to the warm liquor 1,750 parts of

rye meal or flour. When the temperature has fallen to that of the room

add 167 parts of good yeast. On the following day the mass will be in

a state of fermentation. While it is in this condition add 4,000 parts

of barley flour, so as to form a dough. This dough is cut up into thin

disks, which are dried as rapidly as possible in the open air or sun.

For use, the disks are broken into small pieces and soaked overnight in

warm water. The yeast can be used on the following day as if it were

ordinary brewers’ yeast.

«PRESERVATION OF YEAST.»

I.—The yeast is laid in a vessel of cold water which is thereupon

placed in a well-ventilated, cool spot. In this manner the yeast can be

preserved for several weeks. In order to preserve the yeast for several

months a different process must be followed. The yeast, after having

been pressed, is thoroughly dried. For this purpose the yeast is cut up

into small pieces which are rolled out, placed on blotting paper, and

allowed to dry in a place which is not reached by the sun. These rolls

are then grated, again dried, and finally placed in glass bottles.

For use, the yeast is dissolved, whereupon it immediately regains its

freshness. This process is particularly to be recommended because it

preserves the yeast for a long period.

II.—For liquid yeast add one-eighth of its volume in glycerine. In the

case of compressed yeast, the cakes are to be covered with glycerine

and kept in closed vessels. Another method of preserving compressed

yeast is to mix it intimately with animal charcoal to a dough, which

is to be dried by exposure to sunlight. When it is to be used, it is

treated with water, which will take up the ferment matter, while the

charcoal will be deposited. Liquid and compressed yeast have been kept

for a considerable time, without alteration, by saturating the former

with chloroform and keeping the latter under chloroform water.

«YEAST TESTS.»

I.—Pour a few drops of yeast into boiling water. If the yeast sinks, it

is spoiled; if it floats, it is good.

II.—To 1 pound yeast add 1⁠/⁠2 tablespoonful of corn whisky or brandy,

a pinch of sugar, and 2 tablespoonfuls of wheat flour. Mix thoroughly

and allow the resultant compound to stand in a warm place. If the yeast

is good it will rise in about an hour.

YEAST AND FERTILIZERS: See Fertilizers.

YELLOW (CHROME), TEST FOR: See Pigments. {787}

«INDEX»

A

Absinthe, 765

Absolute Alcohol, 45

Abrasion Remedy, 225, 486

Acacia, Mucilage of, 43

Acid-free Soldering Fluid, 659

Acid-proof Alloy, 62

Cement, 26

Corks, 10

Glass, 374

Acid-proofing, 9

Acid-proof Pastes, 38

Putty, 607

Table Top, 9

Acid Receptacles, Lining for, 10

Acid-resisting Paint, 499

Acids, Soldering, 656

Acid Stains Removed, 184

Test for Gold, 432

for Vinegar, 358

Aconite-Monkshood Poison, 93

Adhesion, 105

Belt Pastes for Increasing, 105

Adhesive Paste, 37, 39

Adhesives, 10

Advertising Matter, to Scent, 510

Adulterants in Foods, 348

Adulteration of Linseed Oil, 460

of Wax, 753

Adurol Developer, 527

Affixing Labels to Glass, 42

Agar Agar Paste, 37

Agate, Buttons of Artificial, 44

Agate (Imitation), 370

Age of Eggs, 283

Aging of Silk, 639

Agricultural Sources of Industrial Alcohol, 668

Air Bath, 44

Bubbles in Gelatine, 370

Exclusion of, 553

Air-purifying, 44

Albata Metal, 63

Albumen, 34

in Urine, Detection of, 44

Paste, 37

Alcohol, 44

Absolute, 45

Defined, 667

Deodorized, 45, 514

Dilution of, 45, 703

in Beer, 45

Manufacture, 667, 674

Solid, 45

Tests for Absolute, 45

Ale, 46

Ginger, 107

Alfenide Metal, 63

Alkali Blue and Nicholson’s Blue Dye, 267

Alkalis and Their Salts Poison, 93

Alkaline Glycerine of Thymol, 100

Alkaloids, Antidotes to, 102

Alkermes Cordial, 763

Alloy, Acid-proof, 62

for Caliper and Gage-rod Castings, 80

for Watch Pinion Sockets, 736

Lipowitz’s, 61

Moussets’, 76

Alloys, 47

Copper, Silver, Cadmium, 76

for Casting Coins, etc., 62

for Cementing Glass, 52

for Drawing Colors on Steel, 80

for Metal Foil, 474

for Small Casting Molds, 80

having a Density, 48

Silver, Nickel, Zinc, 76

Tin, 77

Unclassified, 80

Almond Blossom Perfumery, 518

Cold Cream, 235

Extracts, 312

Powders for the Toilet, 242

Altars, to Clean, 185

Alum, 80

Baking Powder, 102

Bath, 535

Process of Water Purification, 340

Aluminum Alloys, 48

Electrical Conductivity of, 50

Aluminum-brass, 50

Aluminum Bronze, 56, 657

Castings, 150

Aluminum-Copper, 50

Aluminum Gilding, 576

Gold, 68

Etching Fluid for, 324

How to Color, 80

Lacquer for, 438

Paper, 507

Plating, 572, 581

Polishes, 590

Aluminum-Silver, 50, 75

Aluminum Solders, 657

Aluminum-Tin, 50

Aluminum, to Clean, 204

Toughness, Density and Tenacity, 83

Aluminum-Tungsten, 50

Aluminum Varnish, 725

Working of Sheet, 83

Aluminum-Zinc, 50

Amalgam for Cementing Glass, etc., 90

for Plaster, 65

for Silvering Glass Balls, 90

for the Rubber of Electric Machines, 90

Gold Plating, 576

Amalgams, 64, 85

for Mirrors, 72

Amber, 90

Cements, 26

Varnish, 718

Ambrosia Powder, 628

American Champagne, 118

Factory Cheese, 176

Lemonade, 110

Soda Fountain Company’s Whipped Cream, 248

Amethyst (Imitation), 370

Amidol Developer, 528

Ammon-carbonite, 331

Ammonia, 91

for Fixing Prints, 536

Household, 91

Poison, 93

Violet Color for, 91

Water, 245, 519

Perfumed, 91

Anchovies, Essence of, 98

Anchovy Paste, 98

Preparations, 98

Sauce, Extemporaneous, 98

Angostura Bitters, 762

Anise Cordial, 763

Aniline, 266

Black Dye, 266, 279

Substitutes, 279

Black Lake Dye, 278

Blue Dye, 268

Green Dye for Wool, 269

for Silk, 269

in Pigments, Tests for, 560

Scarlet Dye, 271

Stains, to Remove, 185

Yellow Dye, 271

Animals, Fly Protection for, 419

Ankara, 142

Annealing Bronze, 56

Copper, 219

Annealing of Steel, Wire, etc., 681

Anodynes, 486

Ansco Platinum Paper, 529

Ant Destroyers, 420

Anti-corrosive or Asiatic Ink, 414

Antidotes for Belladonna, 93

for Poisons, 92

Anti-ferments, 97

Anti-fouling Compositions, 498

Anti-freezing Solution, 362, 363

for Automobilists, 363

Anti-friction Bearing or Babbitt Metals, 50

Metal, 58

Anti-frost Solution, 363

Anti-leak Rubber Tire, 708

Antimony Poison, 93

Baths, 581

Antique Bronzes, 566

Silver, 587, 639

Imitation of, 640

Antiques, to Preserve, 98

Anti-rust Compositions, 625

Paper for Needles, 625

Pastes, 625

Antiseptic Bromine Solution, 100

Enamel, 720

Nervine Ointment, 487

Oil of Cinnamon, 100

Paste (Poison), 99

Pencils, 99

Powders, 98

Soap, 644

Solution, Coloring for, 100

Tooth Powder, 253

Antiseptics, 98

for Caged Birds, 729

Mouth, 99

Aphtite, 70

Apollinaris Lemonade, 110

Water, 740

Apple Extract, 312

Syrup, 312

Applications for Prickly Heat, 398

of Barium Amalgams, 86

of Bismuth Amalgams, 88

of Cadmium Amalgams, 87

of Copper Amalgams, 87

of Gold Amalgams, 89

of Lead Amalgams, 88

of Manganese Amalgams, 87

Applications of Potassium Amalgams, 86

of Silver Amalgams, 88

of Sodium Amalgams, 86

of Strontium Amalgams, 86

of Tin Amalgams, 87

of Zinc Amalgams, 87

Applying Decalcomania Pictures, 250

Apricot Extract, 312

Aquarium Putty, 608

Argentan, 69

Arguzoid, 70

Armenian Cement, 20

Arms, Oil for, 460

Arnica Salve, 486

Aromatic Cod-Liver Oil, 482

Cotton, 246

Rhubarb Remedy, 180

Vinegar, 735

Arsenic Alloys, 63, 75

Arsenic Poison, 93, 614

Art Bronzes, 57, 556

of Lacquering, 437

Artificial Aging of Fabrics, 639

Beeswax, 754

Butter, 142

Ciders, 181

Coloring of Flowers, 346

Egg Oil, 284

Fertilizers for Pot Plants, 336

Flowers, Dyes for, 272

Flower Fertilizer, 337

Horn, 396

Leather, 447

Marbles, 699

Rubber, 618

“Rubbered” Silk, 639

Slate, 643

Violet Perfumery, 518

Water, 739

Asbestos Cement, 30

Fabric, 342

Asphalt and Pitch, 33

as Ingredient of Rubber, 619

in Painting, 718

Varnishes, 718

Assaying of Gold, 381

Asthma Cures, 101

Fumigating Powders, 101

in Canaries, 728

Papers, 101

Astringent for Horses, 730

Wash for Flabby Skin, 234

Atomic Weights, 758

Atomizer Liquid for Sick Rooms, 264

Attaching Enamel Letters to Glass, 19

by Cement, 17

Atropine, Antidote to, 102

Aqua Aromatica, 102

Fortis for the Touchstone, 383

Poison, 92

Regia, 102

Aquarium Cements, 31

Automobile Engines, Cooling, 363

Automobiles, Anti-freezing Solution, 363

Axle Grease, 462

B

Babbitt-Metals, 50

Baking Powders, 102

Balance Spring, 738

Baldness, 392

Balkan Paste, 38

Ball Blue, 281, 444

Ball-Room Floor Powder, 345

Balsam, Birch, 103

of Sulphur, 380

Spray Solution, 103

Balsam, Stains, to Remove, 194

Wild-cherry, 103

Balsams, 102

Balsamic Cough Syrup, 211

Banana Bronzing Solution, 489

Cream, 115

Trick, the Burning, 611

Syrup, 312

Banjo Sour, 110

Barbers’ Itch, 486

Powder, 243

Barium Amalgams, 86

Poison, 615

Barometers (Paper), 402

Bath, Air, 44

Metal, 63

Powder, 242

Tablets, Effervescent, 103

Bath-tub Enamel, 721

Paint, 501

Batteries, Solution for, 104

Basis for Effervescent Salts, 627

Baudoin Metal, 63

Bavaroise au Cognac, 118

Bay Rum, 104, 513

Bear Fat, 333

Bearing Lubricant, 461

Metal, 50

Beauty Cream, 231

Water, 244

Bedbug Destroyers, 420

Beechwood Furniture Polish, 593

Beef and Iron, 771

Iron, and Wine, 104

Beef-marrow Pomade, 227

Beef Peptonoids, 509

Preservatives, 360

Tea, 112

Beer, 118

Ginger, 108

Lemon, 108

Restoration of Spoiled, 105

Spruce, 119

Treacle, 119

Weiss, 119

Beers, Alcohol in, 45

Beetle Powder, 425

Bees, Foul Brood in, 105

Beeswax, Artificial, 754

Belladonna, Antidotes to, 93

Bell Metal, 51

Belt Cement, 31

Glue, 15

Lubricant, 462

Pastes for Increasing Adhesion, 105

Bénédictine, 769

Bengal Lights, 609

Bent Glass, 371

Benzine, 106

Cleaning with, 209

Purification of, 106

to Color Green, 106

Benzoic Acid, Detection of, 350

in Food, 350

Benzoic-acid Pastilles, 211

Benzoin-Glycerine Soap, 652

Benzoparal, 107

Berge’s Blasting Powder, 330

Beverages, 107

Yellow Coloring for, 119

Bibra Alloy, 71

Bicycle Dipping Varnish, 719

Bicycle-tire Cement, 23

Bicycle Varnishes, 719

Bicycles, Black Paint for, 495

Bidery Metal, 80

Billiard Balls, 148, 428

Birch Balsam, 103

Birch-Bud Water, 519

Birch Water, 244, 389

Bird Diseases, Remedies, 728

Foods, 120, 729

Bird Lime, 458

Paste, 145

Tonic, 729

Birds, Antiseptic Wash for, 729

Constipation in, 729

Diarrhœa in, 729

Biscuit, Dog, 265

Bismarck Brown Dye, 267

Bismuth, 49

Alloys, 52

Amalgams, Applications of, 88

Bronze, 70

Purification of, 380

to Purify, 380

Biting Off Red-hot Iron, 612

Bitter Almond Oil Poison, 93

Bitters, 762

Blackberry Cholera Mixture, 180

Cordial, 763

Blackboard Paint and Varnish, 489

Varnish, 720

Black Color on Brass, 129

Dye for Tanned Leather, 447

on Cotton, 266

on Wool, for Mixtures, 267

Blackening Iron, 495

“Black Eye” Lotion, 333

Black Finish for Brass, 129

Grease Paints, 229

Hair Dye without Silver, 390

Blackhead Remedies, 232

Blacking Copper, 221

for Harness, 450

for Shoes, 631

Stove, 700

Black Japanese Varnish, 719

Lake Dyes for Wall-paper, 278

Marble, Imitation, 699

Marking Inks, 407

Paint for Polished Iron, 495

Patina, 585

Putty, 607

Ruling Ink, 403

Sheet Rust Preventive, 624

Starch, 680

Straw Hat Varnish, 266

Varnish, 543, 544, 719

Wash for Casting Molds, 150

Blanching Silver, 640

Blanket Washing, 399

Blasting Powder, 330

Blazing Sponge Trick, 611

Bleach for Hands, 233

Bleaches, Bone, 430

Bleaching, 120

and Coloring Feathers, 335

Bone Fat, 333

Cotton by Steaming, 245

Cotton, 245

Feathers, 121, 335

Linen, 120

of Linseed Oil, 459

of Vegetable Fibers with Hydrogen Peroxide, 245

Oils, 484

Photographic Prints White, 553

Silk, 120, 639

Skin Salves, 234

Solution, 121

for Photographs, 553

Solutions for the Laundry, 446

Sponges, 678

Straw, 120

Tallows and Fats, 334

Wool, 120

Bleeding, Local, 701

Blight Remedies, 121

Blisters, for Horses, 729

Block for Soldering, 667

Hollow Concrete Building, 691

Machines, 694

Blocks Poured from Wet Concrete, 694

Blood-red Brick Stain, 166

Blotting Paper, 503

Blue, Ball, 281

Blue-black Ink, 414

Patina, 585

Blue Bronze, 138

Dye for Hosiery, 268

from Green at Night, 121

Indelible Ink, 406

Paving Bricks, 166

Blueprint Inks, 403

Paper Making, 536

Blueprints, to Change, 121

to Turn Brown, 542

Waterproofing, 741

Blue Ruling Ink, 403

Sanitary Powder, 263

Vitriol Poison, 94

Bluing, 443

Compounds, 443

of Steel, 682

Bluish-black Lake Dye, 278

Blush Pink Dye on Cotton Textile, 279

Board-sizing, 38

Boiled Oil, 484

Henley's Twentieth Century Formulas, Recipes and Processes · 第 134 / 139 段