with 10 parts of acetic acid; 3 parts of citric acid, and 80 parts of
mucilage. For use, 1 part of this paste is mixed with 8 parts of water.
VI.—Copying.—Take 6 parts of pulverized bichromate of potash, mixed
with 10 parts of acetic acid and 240 parts of liquid extract of
logwood, and add a pulverized mixture of 35 parts of alum, 20 parts of
sal sorrel, and 20 parts mucilage. Mix well. For use, 1 part of this
paste is mixed with 4 parts of hot water.
«Purple Ink.»—I.—A strong decoction of logwood, to which a little alum
or chloride of tin has been added.
II. (Normandy).—To 12 pounds of Campeachy wood add as many gallons of
boiling water. Pour the solution through a funnel with a strainer made
of coarse flannel, or 1 pound of hydrate, or acetate of deutoxide of
copper finely powdered (having at the bottom of the funnel a piece of
sponge); then add immediately 14 pounds of alum, and for every 340
gallons of liquid add 80 pounds of gum arabic or gum senegal. Let these
remain for 3 or 4 days, and a beautiful purple color will be produced.
«Red Ink.»—Brazil wood, ground, 4 ounces; white wine vinegar, hot,
1 1/4 pints. Digest in a glass or a well-tinned copper or enamel
saucepan, until the next day; then gently simmer for half an hour,
adding toward the end gum arabic and alum, of each, 1/2 ounce.
«Inks for Shading Pen.»—The essential feature in the ink for use with
a shading pen is simply the addition of a sufficient quantity of
acacia or other mucilaginous substance to impart a proper degree of
consistency to the ink. A mixture of 2 parts of mucilage of acacia with
8 of ink gives about the required consistency. The following formulas
will probably be found useful:
I.—Water-soluble nigrosin 1 part
Water 9 parts
Mucilage acacia 1 part
II.—Paris violet 2 parts
Water 6 parts
Mucilage acacia 2 parts
III.—Methyl violet 1 part
Distilled water 7 parts
Mucilage acacia 2 parts
IV.—Bordeaux red 3 parts
Alcohol 2 parts
Water 20 parts
Mucilage acacia 2 parts
V.—Rosaniline acetate 2 parts
Alcohol 1 part
Water 10 parts
Mucilage acacia 2 parts
«Silver Ink.»—I.—Triturate in a mortar equal parts of silver foil and
sulphate of potassa, until reduced to a fine powder; then wash the salt
out, and mix the residue with a mucilage of equal parts of gum arabic
water.
II.—Make as gold ink, but use silver leaf or silver bronze powder.
III.—Oxide of zinc 30 grains
Mucilage 1 ounce
Spirit of wine 40 drops
Silver bronze 3 drachms
Rub together, until perfectly smooth, {417} the zinc and mucilage, then
add the spirit of wine and silver bronze and make up the quantity to 2
ounces with water.
«Violet Ink.»—I.—For 2 gallons, heat 2 gills of alcohol on a water
bath. Add to the alcohol 2 ounces of violet aniline, and stir till
dissolved; then add the mixture to 2 gallons of boiling water; mix
well, and it is ready for use. Smaller quantities in proportion.
II.—Another good violet ink is made by dissolving some violet aniline
in water to which some alcohol has been added. It takes very little
aniline to make a large quantity of the ink.
«White Ink» (for other White Inks see Blueprint Inks).—So-called white
inks are, properly speaking, white paints, as a white solution cannot
be made. A paint suitable for use as an “ink” may be made by grinding
zinc oxide very fine on a slab with a little tragacanth mucilage, and
then thinning to the required consistency to flow from the pen. The
mixture requires shaking or stirring from time to time to keep the
pigment from separating. The “ink” may be preserved by adding a little
oil of cloves or other antiseptic to prevent decomposition of the
mucilage.
White marks may sometimes be made on colored papers by the application
of acids or alkalies. The result, of course, depends on the nature of
the coloring matter in each instance, and any “ink” of this kind would
be efficacious or otherwise, according to the coloring present in the
paper.
«Yellow Ink.»—I.—Gamboge (in coarse powder), 1 ounce; hot water, 5
ounces. Dissolve, and when cold, add of spirit, 3/4 ounce.
II.—Boil French berries, 1/2 pound, and alum, 1 ounce, in rain water,
1 quart, for 1/2 an hour, or longer, then strain and dissolve in the
hot liquor gum arabic, 1 ounce.
«Waterproof Ink» (see also Indelible Inks).—Any ordinary ink may
be made waterproof by mixing with it a little ordinary glue. After
waterproofing ink in this way it is possible to wash drawings with soap
and water, if necessary, without the ink running at all.
«White Stamping Ink.»—
Zinc white 2 drachms
White precipitate 5 grains
Mucilage 1 drachm
Water 6 drachms
Triturate the zinc white with a small quantity of water till quite
smooth, then add the mucilage and the remainder of the water.
INK FOR THE LAUNDRY: See Laundry Preparations.
INK FOR LEATHER FINISHERS: See Leather.
INKS FOR TYPEWRITERS: See Typewriter Ribbons.
INK FOR WRITING ON GLASS: See Etching and Glass.
«INLAYING BY ELECTROLYSIS.»
See also Electro-etching, under Etching.
The process consists in engraving the design by means of the sand-blast
and stencils on the surface of the article. The design or pattern is
rendered conductive and upon this conductive surface a precipitate of
gold, silver, platinum, etc., is applied, and fills up the hollows.
Subsequently the surface is ground smooth.
«Insect Bites»
«REMEDIES FOR INSECT BITES.»
I.—Carbolic acid 15 grains
Glycerine 2 drachms
Rose water 4 ounces
II.—Salicylic acid 15 grains
Collodion 2 1/2 drachms
Spirit of ammonia 5 1/2 drachms
III.—Fluid extract rhus toxicodendron 1 drachm
Water 8 ounces
IV.—Ipecac, in powder 1 drachm
Alcohol 1 ounce
Ether 1 ounce
V.—Betanaphthol 30 grains
Camphor 30 grains
Lanolin cold cream 1 ounce
VI.—Spirit of sal ammoniac, whose favorable action upon fresh insect
bites is universally known, is often unavailable. A simple means to
alleviate the pain and swelling due to such bites, when still fresh,
is cigar ashes. Place a little ashes upon the part stung, add a drop
of water—in case of need beer, wine, or coffee may be used instead—and
rub the resulting paste thoroughly into the skin. It is preferable to
use fresh ashes of tobacco, because the recent heat offers sufficient
guarantee for absolute freedom from impurities. The action of the
tobacco ashes is due to the presence of {418} potassium carbonate,
which, like spirit of sal ammoniac, deadens the effect of the small
quantities of acid (formic acid, etc.) which have been introduced into
the small wound by the biting insect.
«Insecticides»
(See also Petroleum.)
«The Use of Hydrocyanic Acid Gas for Exterminating Household
Insects.»—Recent successful applications of hydrocyanic acid gas
for the extermination of insects infecting greenhouse plants have
suggested the use of the same remedy for household pests. It is now
an established fact that 1 1/2 grains of 98 per cent pure cyanide
of potassium volatilized in a cubic foot of space, will, if allowed
to remain for a period of not less than 3 hours, kill all roaches and
similar insects.
It may be stated that a dwelling, office, warehouse, or any building
may be economically cleared of all pests, provided that the local
conditions will permit the use of this gas. It probably would be
dangerous to fumigate a building where groceries, dried fruits, meats,
or prepared food materials of any kind are stored. Air containing more
than 25 per cent of the gas is inflammable; therefore it would be well
to put out all fire in an inclosure before fumigating. Hydrocyanic
acid, in all its forms, is one of the most violent poisons known, and
no neglect should attend its use. There is probably no sure remedy for
its effects after it has once entered the blood of any of the higher
animals. When cyanide of potassium is being used it should never be
allowed to come in contact with the skin, and even a slight odor of
the gas should be avoided. Should the operator have any cut or break
in the skin of the hands or face it should be carefully covered with
court-plaster to prevent the gas coming in contact with the flesh, or a
small particle of the solid compound getting into the cut might cause
death by poisoning in a few minutes’ time.
Hydrocyanic acid gas should not be used in closely built apartments
with single walls between, as more or less of the gas will penetrate
a brick wall. An inexperienced person should never use cyanide of
potassium for any purpose, and if it be found practicable to treat
buildings in general for the extermination of insects, the work should
be done only under the direction of competent officials. Experiments
have shown that a smaller dose and a shorter period of exposure are
required to kill mice than for roaches and household insects generally,
and it readily follows that the larger animals and human beings would
be more quickly overcome than mice, since a smaller supply of pure air
would be required to sustain life in mice, and small openings are more
numerous than large ones.
The materials employed and the method of procedure are as follows:
After ascertaining the cubic content of the inclosure, provide a
glass or stoneware (not metal) vessel of 2 to 4 gallons capacity for
each 5,000 cubic feet of space to be fumigated. Distribute the jars
according to the space, and run a smooth cord from each jar to a common
point near an outside door where they may all be fastened; support the
cord above the jar by means of the back of a chair or other convenient
object in such a position that when the load of cyanide of potassium is
attached it will hang directly over the center of the jar. Next weigh
out upon a piece of soft paper about 17 ounces of 98 per cent pure
cyanide of potassium, using a large pair of forceps for handling the
lumps; wrap up and place in a paper bag and tie to the end of the cord
over the jar. After the load for each jar has been similarly provided,
it is well to test the working of the cords to see that they do not
catch or bind. Then remove the jar a short distance from under the
load of cyanide and place in it a little more than a quart of water, to
which slowly add 1 1/2 pints of commercial sulphuric acid, stirring
freely. The action of the acid will bring the temperature of the
combination almost to the boiling point. Replace the jars beneath the
bags of cyanide, spreading a large sheet of heavy paper on the floor to
catch any acid that may possibly fly over the edge of the jar when the
cyanide is dropped, or as a result of the violent chemical action which
follows. Close all outside openings and open up the interior of the
apartment as much as possible, in order that the full strength of the
gas may reach the hiding places of the insects. See that all entrances
are locked or guarded on the outside to prevent persons entering; then
leave the building, releasing the cords as you go. The gas will all be
given off in a few minutes, and should remain in the building at least
3 hours.
When the sulphuric acid comes in contact with the cyanide of potassium
the result is the formation of sulphate of potash, which remains in the
jar, and the hydrocyanic acid is liberated and {419} escapes into the
air. The chemical action is so violent as to cause a sputtering, and
frequently particles of the acid are thrown over the sides of the jar;
this may be prevented by supporting a sheet of stiff paper over the jar
by means of a hole in the center, through which the cord supporting the
cyanide of potassium is passed, so that when the cord is released the
paper will descend with the cyanide and remain at rest on the top of
the jar, but will not prevent the easy descent of the cyanide into the
acid. The weight of this paper will in no way interfere with the escape
of the gas.
At the end of the time required for fumigation, the windows and doors
should be opened from the outside and the gas allowed to escape before
anyone enters the building. A general cleaning should follow, as the
insects leave their hiding places and, dying on the floors, are easily
swept up and burned. The sulphate of potash remaining in the jars is
poisonous and should be immediately buried and the jars themselves
filled with earth or ashes. No food that has remained during fumigation
should be used, and thorough ventilation should be maintained for
several hours. After one of these experiments it was noted that ice
water which had remained in a closed cooler had taken up the gas, and
had both the odor and taste of cyanide.
For dwellings one fumigation each year would be sufficient, but for
storage houses it may be necessary to make an application every 3 or
4 months to keep them entirely free from insect pests. The cost of
materials for one application is about 50 cents for each 5,000 cubic
feet of space to be treated. The cyanide of potassium can be purchased
at about 35 cents per pound, and the commercial sulphuric acid at about
4 cents per pound. The strength of the dose may be increased and the
time of exposure somewhat shortened, but this increases the cost and
does not do the work so thoroughly. In no case, however, should the
dose remain less than 1 hour.
The application of this method of controlling household insects and
pests generally is to be found in checking the advance of great
numbers of some particular insect, or in eradicating them where they
have become thoroughly established. This method will be found very
advantageous in clearing old buildings and ships of cockroaches.
«APPLICATIONS FOR CATTLE, POULTRY, ETC.:»
See also Veterinary Formulas.
«Fly Protectives for Animals.»—
I.—Oil of cloves 3 parts
Bay oil 5 parts
Eucalyptus tincture 5 parts
Alcohol 150 parts
Water 200 parts
II.—Tar well diluted with grease of any kind is as effective an agent
as any for keeping flies from cattle. The mixture indicated has the
advantage of being cheap. Applying to the legs, neck, and ears will
usually be sufficient.
«Cattle Dip for Ticks.»—Dr. Noorgard of the Bureau of Animal Industry
finds the following dip useful, immersion lasting one minute:
Sulphur 86 pounds
Extra dynamo oil 1,000 gallons
«Insecticides for Animals.»—
I.—Bay oil 500 parts by weight
Naphthalene 100 parts by weight
Camphor 60 parts by weight
Animal oil 25 parts by weight
II.—Bay oil, pressed 400 parts by weight
Naphthalene 100 parts by weight
Crude carbolic acid 10 parts by weight
«For Dogs, Cats, etc.»—The following is an excellent powder for the
removal of fleas from cats or dogs:
Naphthalene 4 av. ounces
Starch 12 av. ounces
Reduce to fine powder. A few grains of lampblack added will impart a
light gray color, and if desirable a few drops of oil of pennyroyal or
eucalyptus will disguise the naphthalene odor.
Rub into the skin of the animal and let the powder remain for a day
or two, when the same can be removed by combing or giving a bath, to
which some infusion of quassia or quassia chips has been added. This
treatment is equally efficient for lice and ticks.
«Poultry Lice Destroyer.»—I.—Twenty pounds sublimed sulphur; 8 pounds
fuller’s earth; 2 pounds powdered naphthalene; 1/2 ounce liquid
carbolic acid. Mix thoroughly and put up in half-pound tins or boxes.
Sprinkle about the nest for use.
II.—Oil of eucalyptus smeared about the coop will cause the parasites
to leave. To drive them out of the nests of sitting hens, place in the
nest an egg that has been emptied, and into which has been inserted a
bit of sponge imbibed in essence of eucalyptus. There may be used also
a concentrated solution of extract of tobacco, to which phenol has been
added. {420}
III.—Cover the floor or soil of the house with ground or powdered
plaster, taken from old walls, etc.
«ANT DESTROYERS:»
A most efficacious means of getting rid of ants is spraying their
resorts with petroleum. The common oil is worth more for this purpose
than the refined. Two thorough sprayings usually suffice.
In armoires, dressing cases, etc., oil of turpentine should be
employed. Pour it in a large plate, and let it evaporate freely.
Tobacco juice is another effective agent, but both substances have the
drawback of a very penetrating and disagreeable odor.
Boiling water is deadly to ants wherever it can be used (as in the
garden, or yard around the house). So is carbon disulphide injected
into the nests by aid of a good, big syringe. An emulsion of petroleum
and water (oil, 1 part; water, 3 parts) poured on the earth has proven
very efficacious, when plentifully used (say from 1 ounce to 3 ounces
to the square yard). A similar mixture of calcium sulphide and water
(calcium sulphide, 100 parts; water, 1,000 parts; and the white of 1
egg to every quart of water) poured into their holes is also effective.
A weak solution of corrosive sublimate is very deadly to ants. Not only
does it kill them eventually, but it seems to craze them before death,
so that ants of the same nest, after coming into contact with the
poison, will attack each other with the greatest ferocity.
Where ants select a particular point for their incursions it is a good
plan to surround it with a “fortification” of obnoxious substance.
Sulphur has been used successfully in this way, and so has coal oil.
The latter, however, is not a desirable agent, leaving a persistent
stain and odor.
The use of carbon disulphide is recommended to destroy ants’ nests on
lawns. A little of the disulphide is poured into the openings of the
hills, stepping on each as it is treated to close it up. The volatile
vapors of the disulphide will penetrate the chambers of the nest in
every direction, and if sufficient has been used will kill not only the
adult insects but the larvæ as well. A single treatment is generally
sufficient.
«Formulas to Drive Ants Away.»—
I.—Water 1 quart
Cape aloes 4 ounces
Boil together and add:
Camphor in small pieces 1 1/2 ounces
II.—Powdered cloves 1 ounce
Insect powder 1 ounce
Scatter around where ants infest.
III.—Cape aloes 1/2 pound
Water 4 pints
Boil together and add camphor gum, 3 ounces. Sprinkle around where the
ants infest.
«BEDBUG DESTROYERS.»
A good bug killer is benzine, pure and simple, or mixed with a little
oil of mirbane. It evaporates quickly and leaves no stain. The only
trouble is the inflammability of its vapor.
The following is a popular preparation: To half a gallon of kerosene
oil add a quart of spirit of turpentine and an ounce of oil of
pennyroyal. This mixture is far less dangerous than benzine. The
pennyroyal as well as the turpentine are not only poisonous but
exceedingly distasteful to insects of all kinds. The kerosene while
less quickly fatal to bugs than benzine is cheaper and safer, and when
combined with the other ingredients becomes as efficient.
Where the wall paper and wood work of a room have become invaded, the
usual remedy is burning sulphur. To be efficient the room must have
every door, window, crevice, and crack closed. The floor should be wet
in advance so as to moisten the air. A rubber tube should lead from the
burning sulphur to a key-hole or auger-hole and through it, and by aid
of a pair of bellows air should be blown to facilitate the combustion
of the sulphur.
«Pastes.»—Some housewives are partial to corrosive sublimate for
bedbugs; but it is effective only if the bug eats the poison. The
corrosive sublimate cannot penetrate the waxy coat of the insect. But
inasmuch as people insist on having this a few formulas are given.
I.—Common soap 1 av. ounce
Ammonium chloride 3 av. ounces
Corrosive sublimate 3 av. ounces
Water enough to make 32 fluidounces.
Dissolve the salts in the water and add the soap.
This will make a paste that can be painted with a brush around in the
cracks and crevices. Besides, it will make an excellent filling to keep
the cracks of the wall and wainscoting free from bugs of all kinds.
The formula could be modified so as to permit the use {421} of Paris
green or London purple, if desired. A decoction of quassia could be
used to dissolve the soap. The latter paste would, of course, not be
poisonous, and in many instances it would be preferred. It is possible
to make a cold infusion of white hellebore of 25 per cent strength, and
in 1 quart of infusion dissolve 1 ounce of common soap. The advantage
of the soap paste is simply to keep the poisonous substance thoroughly
distributed throughout the mass at all times. The density of the paste
can be varied to suit. Kerosene oil or turpentine could replace 6
ounces or 8 ounces of the water in making the paste, and either of
these would make a valuable addition.
Another paste preparation which will meet with hearty recommendation
is blue ointment. This ointment, mixed with turpentine or kerosene
oil, can be used to good advantage; especially so as the turpentine is
so penetrating that both it and the mercury have a chance to act more
effectually. It can be said that turpentine will kill the bedbug if the
two come in contact; and kerosene is not far behindhand in its deadly
work.
II.—Blue ointment 1 ounce
Turpentine 3 ounces
Stir well together.
«Liquid Bedbug Preparations.»—There is no doubt that the liquid form
is the best to use; unlike a powder, or even a paste, it will follow
down a crack into remote places where bugs hide, and will prevent
their escape, and it will also kill the eggs and nits. The following
substances are the most employed, and are probably the best: Kerosene,
turpentine, benzine, carbolic acid, corrosive sublimate solution, oil
pennyroyal, and strong solution of soap. Here are several good formulas
that can be depended upon:
I.—Oil of pennyroyal 1 drachm
Turpentine 8 ounces
Kerosene oil, enough to make 1 gallon.
Put up in 8-ounce bottles as a bedbug exterminator.
II.—Oil of eucalyptus 1 drachm
Eucalyptus leaves 1 ounce
Benzine 2 ounces
Turpentine 2 ounces
Kerosene enough to make 16 ounces.
Mix the turpentine, benzine, and kerosene oil, and macerate the
eucalyptus leaves in it for 24 hours; then strain and make up the
measure to 1 pint, having first added the oil of eucalyptus.
«FLY-KILLERS.»
A fly poison that is harmless to man may be made from quassia wood as
follows:
Quassia 1,000 parts
Molasses 150 parts
Alcohol 50 parts
Water 5,750 parts
Macerate the quassia in 500 parts of water for 24 hours, boil for half
an hour, set aside for 24 hours, then press out the liquid. Mix this
with the molasses and evaporate to 200 parts. Add the alcohol and the
remaining 750 parts of water, and without filtering, saturate absorbent
paper with it.
This being set out on a plate with a little water attracts the flies,
which are killed by partaking of the liquid.
«Sticky Preparations.»—
I.—Rosin 150 parts
Linseed oil 50 parts
Honey 18 parts
Melt the rosin and oil together and stir in the honey.
II.—Rapeseed oil 70 parts
Rosin 30 parts
Mix and melt together.
III.—Rosin 60 parts
Linseed oil 38 parts
Yellow wax 2 parts
IV.—Rosin 10 parts
Turpentine 5 parts
Rapeseed oil 5 parts
Honey 1 part
«Sprinkling Powders for Flies.»—
I.—Long peppers, powdered 5 parts
Quassia wood, powdered 5 parts
Sugar, powdered 10 parts
Mix, moisten the mixture with 4 parts of alcohol, dry, and again
powder. Keep the powder in closely stoppered jars, taking out a
sufficient quantity as desired.
II.—Orris root, powdered 4 parts
Starch, powdered 15 parts
Eucalyptol 1 part
Mix. Keep in a closely stoppered jar or box. Strew in places affected
by flies.
«Fly Essences.»—
I.—Eucalyptol 10 parts
Bergamot oil 3 parts
Acetic ether 10 parts
Cologne water 50 parts
Alcohol, 90 per cent 100 parts
Mix. One part of this “essence” is {422} to be added to 10 parts of
water and sprayed around the rooms frequently.
II.—Eucalyptol 10 parts
Acetic ether 5 parts
Cologne water 40 parts
Tincture of insect powder (1:5) 50 parts
«REMEDIES AGAINST HUMAN PARASITES:»
By weight
I.—Yellow wax 85 parts
Spermaceti 60 parts
Sweet oil 500 parts
Melt and add:
Boiling distilled water 150 parts
After cooling add:
Clove oil 2 parts
Thyme oil 3 parts
Eucalyptus oil 4 parts
II.—Bay oil, pressed 100 parts
Acetic ether 12 parts
Clove oil 4 parts
Eucalyptus oil 3 parts