Reduce the tea to a powder, moisten with sufficient of the glycerine

and alcohol mixed, with 4 ounces of water added, pack in percolator,

and pour on the alcohol (diluted with glycerine and water) until 12

ounces of percolate have been obtained. Set this aside, and complete

the percolation with the hot water. When this has passed through,

evaporate to 4 ounces, and add it to the percolate first obtained.

«Tonka Extract.»—

Tonka beans 1 ounce

Magnesium carbonate, quantity sufficient.

Balsam of Peru 2 drachms

Sugar 4 ounces

Alcohol 8 ounces

Water sufficient to make 16 ounces.

Mix the tonka, balsam of Peru, and magnesia, and rub together,

gradually adding the sugar until a homogeneous powder is obtained.

Pack in a percolator; mix the alcohol with an equal amount of water,

and pour over the powder, close the exit of the percolator, and let

macerate for 24 to 36 hours, then open the percolator, and let pass

through, gradually adding water until 16 ounces pass through.

«Vanilla Extracts.»—I.—Vanilla, in fine bits, 250 parts, is put into

1,350 parts of mixture, of 2,500 parts 95 per cent alcohol, and 1,500

parts distilled water. Cover tightly, put on the water bath, and digest

for 1 hour, at 140° F. Pour off the liquid and set aside. To the

residue in the bath, add half the remaining water, and treat in the

same manner. Pack the vanilla in an extraction apparatus, and treat

with 250 parts of alcohol and water, mixed in the same proportions as

before. Mix the results of the three infusions first made, filter, and

wash the filter paper with the results of the percolation, allowing the

filtered percolate to mingle with the filtrate of the mixed infusions.

II.—Take 60 parts of the best vanilla beans, cut into little pieces,

and put into a deep vessel, wrapped with a cloth to retain the heat as

long as possible. Shake over the vanilla 1 part of potassium carbonate

in powder, and immediately add 240 parts distilled water, in an active

state of ebullition. Cover the vessel closely, set aside until it is

completely cold, and then add 720 parts alcohol. Cover closely, and

set aside in a moderately warm place for 15 days, when the liquid is

strained off, the residue pressed, and the whole colate filtered. The

addition of 1 part musk to the vanilla before pouring on the hot water

improves this essence.

To prepare vanilla fountain syrup with extracts I or II, mix 25 minims

of the extract with 1 pint simple syrup. Color with caramel.

III.—Vanilla beans, cut fine 1 ounce

Sugar 3 ounces

Alcohol, 50 per cent 1 pint

Beat sugar and vanilla together to a fine powder. Pour on the dilute

alcohol, cork the vessel, and let stand for 2 weeks, shaking it up 2 or

3 times a day.

IV.—Vanilla beans, chopped fine 30 parts

Potassium carbonate 1 part

Boiling water 1,450 parts

Alcohol 450 parts

Essence of musk 1 part

Dissolve the potassium carbonate in the boiling water, add the vanilla,

cover the vessel, and let stand in a moderately warm place until cold.

Transfer to a wide-mouthed jar, add the alcohol, cork, and let macerate

for 15 days; then decant the clear essence and filter the remainder.

Mix the two liquids and add the essence of musk.

V.—Cut 60 parts of best vanilla beans into small bits; put into a

deep vessel, which should be well wrapped in a woolen cloth to retain

heat as long as possible. Shake over the beans 1 part of potassium

carbonate, in powder, then pour over the mass 240 parts distilled

water, in an {320} active state of ebullition, cover the vessel

closely, and set aside in a moderately warm place. When quite cold

add 720 parts alcohol, close the vessel tightly, and set aside in a

moderately warm place, to macerate for 15 days, then strain off, press

out, and set aside for a day or two. The liquid may then be filtered

and bottled. The addition of a little musk to the beans before pouring

on the hot water, is thought by many to greatly improve the product.

One part of this extract added to 300 parts simple syrup is excellent

for fountain purposes.

VI.—Vanilla beans 8 ounces

Glycerine 6 ounces

Granulated sugar 1 pound

Water 4 pints

Alcohol of cologne spirits 4 pints

Cut or grind the beans very fine; rub with the glycerine and put in a

wooden keg; dissolve the sugar in the water, first heating the water,

if convenient; mix the water and spirits, and add to the vanilla; pour

in keg. Keep in a warm place from 3 to 6 months before using. Shake

often. To clear, percolate through the dregs. If a dark, rich color is

desired add a little sugar coloring.

VII.—Vanilla beans, good quality 16 ounces

Alcohol 64 fluidounces

Glycerine 24 fluidounces

Water 10 fluidounces

Dilute alcohol, quantity sufficient.

Mix and macerate, with frequent agitation, for 3 weeks, filter, and add

dilute alcohol to make 1 gallon.

VIII.—Vanilla beans, good quality 8 ounces

Pumice stone, lump 1 ounce

Rock candy 8 ounces

Alcohol and water, of each a sufficiency.

Cut the beans to fine shreds and triturate well with the pumice stone

and rock candy. Place the whole in a percolator and percolate with

a menstruum composed of 9 parts alcohol and 7 parts water until the

percolate passes through clear. Bring the bulk up to 1 gallon with the

same menstruum and set aside to ripen.

IX.—Cut up, as finely as possible, 20 parts of vanilla bean and with

40 parts of milk sugar (rendered as dry as possible by being kept in a

drying closet until it no longer loses weight) rub to a coarse powder.

Moisten with 10 parts of dilute alcohol, pack somewhat loosely in a

closed percolator and let stand for 2 hours. Add 40 parts of dilute

alcohol, close the percolator, and let stand 8 days. At the end of this

time add 110 parts of dilute alcohol, and let pass through. The residue

will repay working over. Dry it well, add 5 parts of vanillin, and 110

parts of milk sugar and pass through a sieve, then treat as before.

The following are cheap extracts:

X.—Vanilla beans, chopped fine 5 parts

Tonka beans, powdered 10 parts

Sugar, powdered 14 parts

Alcohol, 95 per cent 25 parts

Water, quantity sufficient to make 100 parts.

Rub the sugar and vanilla to a fine powder, add the tonka beans, and

incorporate. Pack into a filter, and pour on 10 parts of alcohol, cut

with 15 parts of water; close the faucet, and let macerate overnight.

In the morning percolate with the remaining alcohol, added to 80 parts

of water, until 100 parts of percolate pass through.

XI.—Vanilla beans 4 ounces

Tonka beans 8 ounces

Deodorized alcohol 8 pints

Simple syrup 2 pints

Cut and bruise the vanilla beans, afterwards bruising the tonka beans.

Macerate for 14 days in one-half of the spirit, with occasional

agitation. Pour off the clear liquor and set aside; pour the remaining

spirits in the magma, and heat by means of the water bath to about

170° F. in a loosely covered vessel. Keep at this temperature 2 or 3

hours, and strain through flannel, with slight pressure. Mix the two

portions of liquid, and filter through felt. Add the syrup.

«White Pine and Tar Syrup.»—

White pine bark 75 parts

Wild cherry bark 75 parts

Spikenard root 10 parts

Balm of Gilead buds 10 parts

Sanguinaria root 8 parts

Sassafras bark 7 parts

Sugar 750 parts

Chloroform 6 parts

Syrup of tar 75 parts

Alcohol, enough.

Water, enough.

Syrup enough to make 1,000 parts.

Reduce the first six ingredients to a coarse powder and by using a

menstruum composed of 1 in 3 alcohol, obtain 500 parts of a tincture

from them. In this {321} dissolve the sugar, add the syrup of tar and

the chloroform, and, finally, enough syrup to bring the measure of the

finished product up to 1,000 parts.

«Wild Cherry Extract.»—

Oenanthic ether 2 fluidrachms

Amyl acetate 2 fluidrachms

Oil of bitter almonds (free from hydrocyanic acid) 1 fluidrachm

Fluid extract of wild cherry 3 fluidounces

Glycerine 2 fluidounces

Deodorized alcohol enough to make 16 fluidounces.

«HARMLESS COLORS FOR USE IN SYRUPS, ETC.:»

Red.—Cochineal syrup, prepared as follows:

I.—Cochineal in coarse powder 6 parts

Potassium carbonate 3 parts

Distilled water 15 parts

Alcohol, 95 per cent 12 parts

Simple syrup to make 500 parts.

Rub the cochineal and potassium together, adding the water and alcohol

little by little, under constant trituration. Let stand overnight, add

the syrup, and filter.

II.—Carmine, in fine powder 1 part

Stronger ammonia water 4 parts

Distilled water to make 24 parts.

Rub up the carmine and ammonia and to the solution add the water,

little by little, under constant trituration. If in standing this shows

a tendency to separate, a drop or two of ammonia will correct the

trouble.

Besides these there is caramel, which, of course, you know.

Pink.—

III.—Carmine 1 part

Liquor potassæ 6 parts

Distilled water 40 parts

Mix. If the color is too high, dilute with distilled water until the

requisite color is obtained.

«To Test Fruit Juices and Syrups for Aniline Colors.»—Add to a sample

of the syrup or juice, in a test tube, its own volume of distilled

water, and agitate to get a thorough mixture, then add a few drops of

the standard solution of lead diacetate, shake, and filter. If the

syrup is free from aniline coloring matter the filtrate will be clear

as crystal, since the lead salt precipitates natural coloring matters,

but has no effect upon the aniline colors.

«To Test Fruit Juices for Salicylic Acid.»—Put a portion of the juice

to be tested in a large test tube, add the same volume of ether, close

the mouth of the tube and shake gently for 30 seconds. Set aside until

the liquid separates into two layers. Draw off the supernatant ethereal

portion and evaporate to dryness in a capsule. Dissolve the residue in

alcohol, dilute with 3 volumes of water, and add 1 drop of tincture of

iron chloride. If salicylic acid be present the characteristic purple

color will instantly disappear.

«Syrups Selected from the Formulary of the Pharmaceutical Society of

Antwerp.»—

_Dionine Syrup._—Dionine, 1 part; distilled water, 19 parts; simple

syrup, 1,980 parts. Mix.

_Jaborandi Syrup._—Tincture of jaborandi, 1 part; simple syrup, 19

parts. Mix.

_Convallaria Syrup._—Extract of convallaria, 1 part; distilled water,

4 parts; simple syrup, 95 parts. Dissolve the extract in the water and

mix.

_Codeine Phosphate Syrup._—Codeine phosphate, 3 parts; distilled water,

17 parts; simple syrup, 980 parts. Dissolve the codeine in the water

and mix with the syrup.

_Licorice Syrup._—Incised licorice root, 4 parts; dilute solution of

ammonia, 1 part; water, 20 parts. Mix and macerate for 12 hours at 58°

to 66° F. with frequent agitation; press, heat the liquid to boiling,

then evaporate to two parts on the water bath; add alcohol, 2 parts;

allow to stand for 12 hours; then filter. Add to the filtrate enough

simple syrup to bring the final weight to 20 parts.

_Maize Stigma Syrup._—Extract of maize stigmas, 1 part; distilled

water, 4 parts; simple syrup, 95 parts. Dissolve the extract in the

water, filter, and add the syrup.

_Ammonium Valerianate Solution._—Ammonium valerianate, 2 parts;

alcoholic extract of valerian, 1 part; distilled water, 47 parts.

_Kola Tincture._—Powdered kola nuts, 1 part; alcohol, 60 per cent, 5

parts. Macerate for 6 days, press, and filter.

_Bidet’s Liquid Vesicant._—Tincture of cantharides, tincture of

rosemary, chloroform, equal parts.

_Peptone Wine._—Dried peptone, 1 part; Malaga wine, 19 parts. Dissolve

without heat and filter after standing for several days. {322}

«Etching»

«General Instructions for Etching.»—In etching, two factors come into

consideration, (1) that which covers that part of the metal not exposed

to the etching fluid (the resist), and (2) the etching fluid itself.

In the process, a distinction is to be made between etching in relief

and etching in intaglio. In relief etching, the design is drawn or

painted upon the surface with the liquid etching-ground, so that after

etching and removal of the etching-ground, it appears raised. In

intaglio etching, the whole surface is covered with the etching-ground,

and the design put on with a needle; the ground being thus removed

at the points touched by the drawing, the latter, after etching and

removal of the etching-ground, is sunken.

«Covering Agents or Resists.»—The plate is enclosed by a border made

of grafting wax (yellow beeswax, 8 parts; pine rosin, 10 parts; beef

tallow, 2 parts; turpentine, 10 parts); or a mixture of yellow wax,

8 parts; lard, 3 parts; Burgundy pitch, 1⁠/⁠2 part. This mixture is

also used to cover the sides of vessels to be etched. Another compound

consists of wax, 5 parts; cobbler’s wax, 2 1⁠/⁠2 parts; turpentine, 1

part.

«Etching-Ground.»—I.—Soft: Wax, 2 parts; asphalt, 1 part; mastic,

1 part. II.—Wax, 3 parts; asphalt, 4 parts. III.—Mastic, 16 parts;

Burgundy pitch, 50 parts; melted wax, 125 parts; and melted asphalt,

200 parts added successively, and, after cooling, turpentine oil, 500

parts. If the ground should be deep black, lampblack is added.

Hard: Burgundy pitch, 125 parts; rosin, 125 parts, melted; and walnut

oil, 100 parts, added, the whole to be boiled until it can be drawn out

into long threads.

«Etching-Ground for Copper Engraving.»—White wax, 120 parts; mastic,

15 parts; Burgundy pitch, 60 parts; Syrian asphalt, 120 parts, melted

together; and 5 parts concentrated solution of rubber in rubber oil

added.

«Ground for Relief Etching.»—I.—Syrian asphalt, 500 parts, dissolved

in turpentine oil, 1,000 parts. II.—Asphalt, rosin, and wax, 200 parts

of each, are melted, and dissolved in turpentine oil, 1,200 parts. The

under side of the metal plate is protected by a coating of a spirituous

shellac solution, or by a solution of asphalt, 300 parts, in benzol,

600 parts.

«For Strongly Acid Solutions.»—I.—Black pitch, 1 part; Japanese wax, 2

parts; rosin, 1 1⁠/⁠2 parts; Damar rosin, 1 part, melted together and

mixed with turpentine oil, 1 part. II.—Heavy black printers’ ink, 3

parts; rosin, 1 part; wax, 1 part.

For electro-etching, the following ground is recommended: Wax, 4 parts;

asphalt, 4 parts; pitch, 1 part.

If absolute surety is required respecting the resistance of the

etching-ground to the action of the etching fluids, several

etching-grounds are put on, one over the other; first (for instance), a

solution of rubber in benzol, then a spirituous shellac solution, and a

third stratum of asphalt dissolved in turpentine oil.

If the etching is to be of different degrees of depth, the places where

it is to be faint are stopped out with varnish, after they are deep

enough, and the object is put back into the bath for further etching.

For putting on a design before the etching, the following method may

be used: Cover the metal plate, tin plate for example, with a colored

or colorless spirit varnish; after drying, cover this, in a dark room,

with a solution of gelatin, 5 parts, and red potassium chromate, 1

part, in water, 100 parts; or with a solution of albumen, 2 parts;

ammonium bichromate, 2 parts, in water, 200 parts. After drying, put

the plate, covered with a stencil, in a copying or printing frame, and

expose to light. The sensitive gelatin stratum will become insoluble at

the places exposed. Place in water, and the gelatin will be dissolved

at the places covered by the stencil; dry, and remove the spirit

varnish from the places with spirit, then put into the etching fluid.

«Etching Fluids.»—The etching fluid is usually poured over the metallic

surface, which is enclosed in a border, as described before. If the

whole object is to be put into the fluid, it must be entirely covered

with the etching-ground. After etching it is washed with pure water,

dried with a linen cloth, and the etching-ground is then washed off

with turpentine oil or a light volatile camphor oil. The latter is very

good for the purpose.

«Etching Fluids for Iron and Steel.»—I.—Pure nitric acid, diluted for

light etching with 4 to 8 parts of water, for deep etching with an

equal weight of water.

II.—Tartaric acid, 1 part, by weight; mercuric chloride, 15 parts, by

weight; water, 420 parts; nitric acid, 16 to 20 drops, if 1 part equals

28 1⁠/⁠2 grains. {323}

III.—Spirit, 80 per cent, 120 parts, by weight; pure nitric acid, 8

parts; silver nitrate, 1 part.

IV.—Pure acetic acid, 30 per cent, 40 parts, by weight; absolute

alcohol, 10 parts; pure nitric acid, 10 parts.

V.—Fuming nitric acid, 10 parts, by weight; pure acetic acid, 30 per

cent, 50 parts, diluted with water if necessary or desired.

VI.—A chromic acid solution.

VII.—Bromine, 1 part; water, 100 parts. Or—mercuric chloride, 1 part;

water, 30 parts.

VIII.—Antimonic chloride, 1 part; water, 6 parts; hydrochloric acid, 6

parts.

«For Delicate Etchings on Steel.»—I.—Iodine, 2 parts; potassium iodide,

4 parts; water, 40 parts.

II.—Silver acetate, 8 parts, by weight; alcohol, 250 parts; water, 250

parts; pure nitric acid, 260 parts; ether, 64 parts; oxalic acid, 4

parts.

III.—A copper chloride solution.

«Etching Powder for Iron and Steel.»—Blue vitriol, 50 parts; common

salt, 50 parts; mixed and moistened with water.

For lustrous figures on a dull ground, as on sword blades, the whole

surface is polished, the portions which are to remain bright covered

with stencils and the object exposed to the fumes of nitric acid. This

is best done by pouring sulphuric acid, 20 parts, over common salt, 10

parts.

«Relief Etching of Copper, Steel, and Brass.»—Instead of nitric acid,

which has a tendency to lift up the etching-ground, by evolution of

gases, it is better to use a mixture of potassium bichromate, 150

parts; water, 800 parts; and concentrated sulphuric acid, 200 parts.

The etching is slow, but even, and there is no odor.

«For Etching Copper, Brass, and Tombac.»—Pure nitric acid diluted with

water to 18° Bé. The bubbles of gas given out should immediately be

removed with a feather that the etching may be even.

Another compound consists of a boiling solution of potassium chlorate,

2 parts, in water, 20 parts, poured into a mixture of nitric acid, 10

parts, and water, 70 parts. For delicate etchings dilute still more

with 100 to 200 parts of water.

«Etching Fluid for Copper.»—Weak: A boiling solution of potassium

chlorate, 20 parts, in water, 200 parts, poured into a mixture of pure

hydrochloric acid, 20 parts; water, 500 parts.

Stronger: A boiling solution of potassium chlorate, 25 parts, in water,

250 parts, poured into a mixture of pure hydrochloric acid, 250 parts;

water, 400 parts.

Very strong: A boiling solution of potassium chlorate, 30 parts, in

water, 300 parts, poured into a mixture of pure hydrochloric acid, 300

parts; water, 300 parts.

For etching on copper a saturated solution of bromine in dilute

hydrochloric acid may also be used; or a mixture of potassium

bichromate, 1⁠/⁠2 part; water, 1 part; crude nitric acid, 3 parts.

The following are also much used for copper and copper alloys:

I.—A copper chloride solution acidified with hydrochloric acid.

II.—Copper nitrate dissolved in water.

III.—A ferric chloride solution of 30° to 45° Bé. If chrome gelatin

or chrome albumen is used for the etching-ground, a spirituous ferric

chloride solution is employed. The etching process can be made slower

by adding common salt to the ferric chloride solution.

«Matt Etching of Copper.»—White vitriol, 1 to 5 parts; common salt, 1

part; concentrated sulphuric acid, 100 parts; nitric acid (36° Bé.),

200 parts, mixed together. The sulphuric acid is to be poured carefully

into the nitric acid, not the reverse.

«Etching Fluid for Brass.»—Nitric acid, 8 parts; mixed with water, 80

parts; into this mixture pour a hot solution of potassium chlorate, 3

parts, in water, 50 parts.

«Etching Fluid for Brass to Make Stencils.»—Mix nitric acid, of 1.3

specific weight, with enough fuming nitric acid to give a deep yellow

color. This mixture acts violently, and will eat through the strongest

sheet brass.

«Etching Fluid for Zinc.»—Boil pounded gallnuts, 40 parts, with water,

560 parts, until the whole amounts to 200 parts; filter, and add nitric

acid, 2 parts, and a few drops of hydrochloric acid. Ferric chloride

and antimonic chloride solutions may also be used to etch zinc.

«Relief Etching of Zinc.»—The design is to be drawn with a solution

of platinum chloride, 1 part, and rubber, 1 part, in water, 12 parts.

The zinc plate is placed in dilute sulphuric acid (1 in 16). The black

drawing will remain as it is.

Another compound for the drawing is made of blue vitriol, 2 parts;

copper chloride, 3 parts; water, 64 parts; pure hydrochloric acid, 1.1

specific weight. After the drawing is made, lay the plate in dilute

nitric acid (1 in 8). {324}

«Etching Fluid for Aluminum.»—Dilute hydrochloric acid serves this

purpose. Aluminum containing iron can be matted with soda lye, followed

by treatment with nitric acid. The lye dissolves the aluminum, and the

nitric acid dissolves the iron. Aluminum bronze is etched with nitric

acid.

«Etching Fluid for Tin or Pewter.»—Ferric chloride, or highly diluted

nitric acid.

«Etching Fluids for Silver.»—I.—Dilute pure nitric acid.

II.—Nitric acid (specific weight, 1.185), 172 parts; water, 320 parts;

potassium bichromate, 30 parts.

«Etching Fluid for Gold.»—Dilute aqua regia (= nitric and sulphuric

acids, in the proportion of 1 in 3).

«Etching Fluid for Copper, Zinc, and Steel.»—A mixture of 4 parts of

acetic acid (30 per cent), and alcohol, 1 part; to this is added

gradually, nitric acid, 1 part.

«Etching Fluid for Lead, Antimony, and Britannia Metal.»—Dilute nitric

acid.

«Etching Powder for Metals» (Tin, Silver, Iron, German Silver, Copper,

and Zinc).—Blue vitriol, 1 part; ferric oxide, 4 parts. The powder,

moistened, is applied to the places to be etched, as, for instance,

knife blades. Calcined green vitriol can also be used.

«Electro-Etching.»—This differs from ordinary etching in the use of a

bath, which does not of itself affect the metal, but is made capable of

doing so by the galvanic current.

Ordinary etching, seen under the microscope, consists of a succession

of uneven depressions, which widen out considerably at a certain

depth. In electro-etching, the line under the microscope appears as a

perfectly even furrow, not eaten out beneath, however deeply cut. The

work is, accordingly, finer and sharper; the fumes from the acids are

also avoided, and the etching can be modified by regulation of the

current. The preparation of the surface, by covering, stopping-out,

etc., is the same as in ordinary etching. At some uncovered place a

conducting wire is soldered on with soft solder, and covered with a

coat of varnish. The plate is then suspended in the bath, and acts as

the anode, with another similar plate for the cathode. If gradations in

etching are desired, the plates are taken out after a time, rinsed, and

covered, and returned to the bath.

For the bath dilute acids are used, or saline solutions. Thus, for

copper, dilute sulphuric acid, 1 in 20. For copper and brass, a

blue vitriol solution. For zinc, white vitriol or a zinc chloride

solution. For steel and iron, green vitriol, or an ammonium chloride

solution. For tin, a tin-salt solution. For silver, a silver nitrate

or potassium cyanide solution. For gold and platinum, gold chloride

and platinum chloride solutions, or a potassium cyanide solution. For

electro-etching a Leclauché or Bunsen battery is to be recommended. In

the former, the negative zinc pole is connected with a plate of the

same metal as that to be etched, and the positive iron pole with the

plate to be etched. In the Bunsen battery, the carbon pole is connected

with the object to be etched, the zinc pole with the metal plate.

«Etching Bath for Brass.»—1.—Mix nitric acid (specified gravity,

1.4), 8 parts, with water, 80 parts. 2.—Chlorate of potash, 3

parts, dissolved in 50 parts of water. Mix 1 and 2. For protecting

those portions which are not to be etched, any suitable acid-proof

composition can be used.

Henley's Twentieth Century Formulas, Recipes and Processes · 第 53 / 139 段