filtered. Coat, by means of a sponge before retiring, the places of the
skin where the freckles are and allow to dry.
«Freckles and Liver Spots.»—Modern dermatological methods of treating
freckles and liver spots are based partly on remedies that cause
desquamation and those that depigmentate (or destroy or neutralize
pigmentation). Both methods may be distinguished in respect to their
effects and mode of using into the following: The active ingredients of
the desquamative pastes are reductives which promote the formation of
epithelium and hence expedite desquamation.
There are many such methods, and especially to be mentioned is that of
Unna, who uses resorcin for the purpose. Lassar makes use of a paste of
naphthol and sulphur.
«Sunburn Remedies.»—
I.—Zinc sulphocarbolate 1 part
Glycerine. 20 parts
Rose water 70 parts
Alcohol, 90 per cent 8 parts
Cologne water 1 part
Spirit of camphor 1 part
II.—Borax 4 parts
Potassium chlorate 2 parts
Glycerine 10 parts
Alcohol 4 parts
Rose water to make 90 parts
III.—Citric acid 2 drachms
Ferrous sulphate (cryst.) 18 grains
Camphor 2 grains
Elder-flower water 3 fluidounces
IV.—Potassium carbonate 3 parts
Sodium chloride 2 parts
Orange-flower water 15 parts
Rose water 65 parts
V.—Boroglycerine, 50 per cent 1 part
Ointment of rose water 9 parts
VI.—Sodium bicarbonate 1 part
Ointment of rose water 7 parts
VII.—Bicarbonate of soda 2 drachms
Powdered borax 1 drachm
Compound tincture of lavender 1 1/2 drachms
Glycerine 1 ounce
Rose water 4 ounces
Dissolve the soda and borax in the glycerine and rose water, and add
the tincture. Apply with a small piece of sponge 2 or 3 times a day.
Then gently dry by dabbing with a soft towel.
VIII.—Quince seeds 2 drachms
Distilled water 10 ounces
Glycerine 2 ounces
Alcohol, 94 per cent 1 ounce
Rose water 2 ounces
Boil the seeds in the water for 10 minutes, then strain off the liquid,
and when cold add to it the glycerine, alcohol, and rose water.
IX.—White soft soap 2 1/2 drachms
Glycerine 1 1/2 drachms
Almond oil 11 drachms
Well mix the glycerine and soap in a mortar, and very gradually add the
oil, stirring constantly until perfectly mixed.
X.—Subnitrate of bismuth 1 1/2 drachms
Powdered French chalk 30 grains
Glycerine 2 drachms
Rose water 1 1/2 ounces
Mix the powders, and rub down carefully with the glycerine; then add
the rose water. Shake the bottle before use.
XI.—Glycerine cream 2 drachms
Jordan almonds 4 drachms
Rose water 5 ounces
Essential oil of almonds 3 drops
Blanch the almonds, and then dry and beat them up into a perfectly
smooth paste; then mix in the glycerine cream and essential oil.
Gradually add the rose water, stirring well after each addition; then
strain through muslin.
«Tan and Freckle Lotion.»—
Solution A:
Potassium iodide, iodine, glycerine, and infusion rose.
Dissolve the potassium iodide in a {242} small quantity of the infusion
and a drachm of the glycerine; with this fluid moisten the iodine in
a glass of water and rub it down, gradually adding more liquid, until
complete solution has been obtained; then stir in the remainder of the
ingredients, and bottle the mixture.
Solution B:
Sodium thiosulphate and rose water. With a small camel’s-hair pencil
or piece of fine sponge apply a little of solution A to the tanned or
freckled surface, until a slight or tolerably uniform brownish yellow
skin has been produced. At the expiration of 15 or 20 minutes moisten a
piece of cambric, lint, or soft rag with B and lay it upon the affected
part, removing, squeezing away the liquid, soaking it afresh, and again
applying until the iodine stain has disappeared. Repeat the process
thrice daily, but diminish the frequency of application if tenderness
be produced.
«A Cure for Tan.»—Bichloride of mercury, in coarse powder, 10 grains;
distilled water, 1 pint. Agitate the two together until a complete
solution is obtained. Add 1/2 ounce of glycerine. Apply with a small
sponge as often as agreeable. This is not strong enough to blister
and skin the face in average cases. It may be increased or reduced
in strength by adding to or taking from the amount of bichloride of
mercury. Do not forget that this last ingredient is a powerful poison
and should be kept out of the reach of children and ignorant persons.
«Improved Carron Oil.»—Superior to the old and more suitable. A
desirable preparation for burns, tan, freckle, sunburn, scalds,
abrasions, or lung affections. Does not oxidize so quickly or dry up so
rapidly and less liable to rancidity.
Linseed oil 2 ounces
Limewater 2 ounces
Paraffine, liquid 1 ounce
Mix the linseed oil and water, and add the paraffine. Shake well before
using.
«LIVER SPOTS.»
I.—Corrosive sublimate 1 part
White sugar 190 parts
White of egg 34 parts
Lemon juice 275 parts
Water to make 2,500 parts
Mix the sublimate, sugar, and albumen intimately, then add the lemon
juice and water. Dissolve, shake well, and after standing an hour,
filter. Apply in the morning after the usual ablutions, and let dry on
the face.
II.—Bichloride of mercury, in coarse powder, 8 grains; witch-hazel, 2
ounces; rose water, 2 ounces.
Agitate until a solution is obtained. Mop over the affected parts. Keep
out of the way of ignorant persons and children.
«TOILET POWDERS:»
«Almond Powders for the Toilet.»—
I.—Almond meal 6,000 parts
Bran meal 3,000 parts
Soap powder 600 parts
Bergamot oil 50 parts
Lemon oil 15 parts
Clove oil 15 parts
Neroli oil 6 parts
II.—Almond meal 7,000 parts
Bran meal 2,000 parts
Violet root 900 parts
Borax 350 parts
Bitter almond oil 18 parts
Palmarosa oil 36 parts
Bergamot oil 10 parts
III.—Almond meal 3,000 parts
Bran meal 3,000 parts
Wheat flour 3,000 parts
Sand 100 parts
Lemon oil 40 parts
Bitter almond oil 10 parts
«Bath Powder.»—
Borax 4 ounces
Salicylic acid 1 drachm
Extract of cassia 1 drachm
Extract of jasmine 1 drachm
Oil of lavender 20 minims
Rub the oil and extracts with the borax and salicylic acid until the
alcohol has evaporated. Use a heaping teaspoonful to the body bath.
«Brunette or Rachelle.»—
Base 9 pounds
Powdered Florentine orris 1 pound
Perfume the same.
Powdered yellow ocher (av.) 3 ounces 120 grains
Carmine No. 40 60 grains
Rub down the carmine and ocher with alcohol in a mortar, and spread on
glass to dry; then mix and sift.
«Violet Poudre de Riz.»—
I.—Cornstarch 7 pounds
Rice flour 1 pound
Powdered talc 1 pound
Powdered orris root 1 pound
Extract of cassia 3 ounces
Extract of jasmine 1 ounce
{243}
II.—Cheaper.
Potato starch 8 pounds
Powdered talc 1 pound
Powdered orris 1 pound
Extract of cassia 3 ounces
«Barber’s Powder.»—
Cornstarch 5 pounds
Precipitated chalk 3 pounds
Powdered talc 2 pounds
Oil of neroli 1 drachm
Oil of cedrat 1 drachm
Oil of orange 2 drachms
Extract of jasmine 1 ounce
«Rose Poudre de Riz.»—
I.—Cornstarch 9 pounds
Powdered talc 1 pound
Oil of rose 1 1/4 drachms
Extract of jasmine 6 drachms
II.—Potato starch 9 pounds
Powdered talc 1 pound
Oil of rose 1/2 drachm
Extract of jasmine 1/2 ounce
«Ideal Cosmetic Powder.»—The following combines the best qualities that
a powder for the skin should have:
Zinc, white 50 parts
Calcium carbonate, precipitated 300 parts
Steatite, best white 50 parts
Starch, wheat, or rice 100 parts
Extract white rose, triple 3 parts
Extract jasmine, triple 3 parts
Extract orange flower, triple 3 parts
Extract of cassia, triple 3 parts
Tincture of myrrh 1 part
Powder the solids and mix thoroughly by repeated siftings.
«Flesh Face Powder.»—
Base 9 pounds
Powdered Florentine orris 1 pound
Carmine No. 40 250 grains
Extract of jasmine 100 minims
Oil of neroli 20 minims
Vanillin 5 grains
Artificial musk 30 grains
White heliotropin 30 grains
Coumarin 1 grain
Rub the carmine with a portion of the base and alcohol in a mortar,
mixing the perfume the same way in another large mortar, and adding the
orris. Mix and sift all until specks of carmine disappear on rubbing.
«White Face Powder.»—
Base 9 pounds
Powdered Florentine orris 1 pound
Perfume the same. Mix and sift.
«Talcum Powders.»—Talc, when used as a toilet powder should be in a
state of very fine division. Antiseptics are sometimes added in small
proportion, but these are presumably of little or no value in the
quantity allowable, and may prove irritating. For general use, at all
events, the talcum alone is the best and the safest. As a perfume, rose
oil may be employed, but on account of its cost, rose geranium oil
is probably more frequently used. A satisfactory proportion is 1/2
drachm of the oil to a pound of the powder. In order that the perfume
may be thoroughly disseminated throughout the powder, the oil should
be triturated first with a small portion of it; this should then be
further triturated with a larger portion, and, if the quantity operated
on be large, the final mixing may be effected by sifting. Many odors
besides that of rose would be suitable for a toilet powder. Ylang-ylang
would doubtless prove very attractive, but expensive.
The following formulas for other varieties of the powder may prove
useful:
Violet Talc.—
I.—Powdered talc 14 ounces
Powdered orris root 2 ounces
Extract of cassia 1/2 ounce
Extract of jasmine 1/4 ounce
Rose Talc.—
II.—Powdered talc 5 pounds
Oil of rose 1/2 drachm
Extract of jasmine 4 ounces
Tea-Rose Talc.—
III.—Powdered talc 5 pounds
Oil of rose 50 drops
Oil of wintergreen 4 drops
Extract of jasmine 2 ounces
Borated Apple Blossom.—
IV.—Powdered talc 22 pounds
Magnesium carbonate 2 3/4 pounds
Powdered boric acid 1 pound
Mix.
Carnation pink blossom (Schimmel’s) 2 ounces
Extract of trefle 2 drachms
To 12 drachms of this mixture add:
Neroli 1 drachm
Vanillin 1/2 drachm
Alcohol to 3 ounces
Sufficient for 25 pounds. {244}
V.—Talcum 8 ounces
Starch 8 ounces
Oil of neroli 10 drops
Oil of ylang-ylang 5 drops
VI.—Talcum 12 ounces
Starch 4 ounces
Orris root 2 ounces
Oil of bergamot 12 drops
VII.—Talcum 14 ounces
Starch 2 ounces
Lanolin 1/2 ounce
Oil of rose 10 drops
Oil of neroli 5 drops
«TOILET VINEGARS:»
«Pumillo Toilet Vinegar.»—
Alcohol, 80 per cent 1,600 parts
Vinegar, 10 per cent 840 parts
Oil of pinu spumillo 44 parts
Oil of lavender 4 parts
Oil of lemon 2 parts
Oil of bergamot 2 parts
Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, add the vinegar, let stand for a week
and filter.
«Vinaigre Rouge.»—
Acetic acid 24 parts
Alum 3 parts
Peru balsam 1 part
Carmine, No. 40 12 parts
Ammonia water 6 parts
Rose water, distilled 575 parts
Alcohol 1,250 parts
Dissolve the balsam of Peru in the alcohol, and the alum in the rose
water. Mix the two solutions, add the acetic acid, and let stand
overnight. Dissolve the carmine in the ammonia water and add to
mixture. Shake thoroughly, let stand for a few minutes, then decant.
«TOILET WATERS:»
«“Beauty Water.”»—
Fresh egg albumen 500 parts
Alcohol 125 parts
Lemon oil 2 parts
Lavender oil 2 parts
Oil of thyme 2 parts
Mix the ingredients well together. When first mixed the liquid becomes
flocculent, but after standing for 2 or 3 days clears up—sometimes
becomes perfectly clear, and may be decanted. It forms a light,
amber-colored liquid that remains clear for months.
At night, before retiring, pour about a teaspoonful of the water in the
palm of the hand, and rub it over the face and neck, letting it dry on.
In the morning, about an hour before the bath, repeat the operation,
also letting the liquid dry on the skin. The regular use of this
preparation for 4 weeks will give the skin an extraordinary fineness,
clearness, and freshness.
«Rottmanner’s Beauty Water.»—Koller says that this preparation consists
of 1 part of camphor, 5 parts of milk of sulphur, and 50 parts of rose
water.
«Birch Waters.»—Birch water, which has many cosmetic applications,
especially as a hair wash, or an ingredient in hair washes, may be
prepared as follows:
I.—Alcohol, 96 per cent 3,500 parts
Water 700 parts
Potash soap 200 parts
Glycerine 150 parts
Oil of birch buds 50 parts
Essence of spring flowers 100 parts
Chlorophyll, quantity sufficient to color.
Mix the water with 700 parts of the alcohol, and in the mixture
dissolve the soap. Add the essence of spring flowers and birch oil to
the remainder of the alcohol, mix well, and to the mixture add, little
by little, and with constant agitation, the soap mixture. Finally,
add the glycerine, mix thoroughly, and set aside for 8 days, filter
and color the filtrate with chlorophyll, to which is added a little
tincture of saffron. To use, add an equal volume of water to produce a
lather.
II.—Alcohol, 96 per cent 2,000 parts
Water 500 parts
Tincture of cantharides 25 parts
Salicylic acid 25 parts
Glycerine 100 parts
Oil of birch buds 40 parts
Bergamot oil 30 parts
Geranium oil 5 parts
Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, add the acid and tincture of
cantharides; mix the water and glycerine and add, and, finally, color
as before.
III.—Alcohol 30,000 parts
Birch juice 3,000 parts
Glycerine 1,000 parts
Bergamot oil 90 parts
Vanillin 10 parts
Geranium oil 50 parts
Water 14,000 parts
IV.—Alcohol 40,000 parts
Oil of birch 150 parts
Bergamot oil 100 parts
Lemon oil 50 parts {245}
Palmarosa oil 100 parts
Glycerine 2,000 parts
Borax 150 parts
Water 20,000 parts
«Violet Ammonia Water.»—Most preparations of this character consist
of either coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate, with or without the
addition of ammonia water, or of a coarsely powdered mixture, which
slowly evolves the odor of ammonia, the whole being perfumed by the
addition of volatile oil, pomade essences, or handkerchief extract. The
following are typical formulas:
I.—Moisten coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate, contained in a
suitable bottle, with a mixture of concentrated tincture of orris root,
2 1/2 ounces; aromatic spirit of ammonia, 1 drachm; violet extract, 3
drachms.
II.—Fill suitable bottles with coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate and
add to the salt as much of the following solution as it will absorb:
Oil of orris, 5 minims; oil of lavender flowers, 10 minims; violet
extract, 30 minims; stronger water of ammonia, 2 fluidounces.
III.—The following is a formula for a liquid preparation: Extract
violet, 8 fluidrachms; extract cassia, 8 fluidrachms; spirit of rose,
4 fluidrachms; tincture of orris, 4 fluidrachms; cologne spirit, 1
pint; spirit of ammonia, 1 ounce. Spirit of ionone may be used instead
of extract of violet.
«Violet Witch-Hazel.»—
Spirit of ionone 1/2 drachm
Rose water 6 ounces
Distilled extract of witch-hazel enough to make 16 ounces
«Cotton»
«BLEACHING OF COTTON:»
I.—Bleaching by Steaming.—The singed and washed cotton goods are passed
through hydrochloric acid of 2° Bé. Leave them in heaps during 1 hour,
wash, pass through sodium hypochlorite of 10° Bé. diluted with 10 times
the volume of water. Let the pieces lie in heaps for 1 hour, wash, pass
through caustic soda lye of 38° Bé. diluted with 8 times its volume
of water, steam, put again through sodium chloride, wash, acidulate
slightly with hydrochloric acid, wash and dry. Should the whiteness not
be sufficient, repeat the operations.
II.—Bleaching with Calcium Sulphite.—The cotton goods are impregnated
with 1 part, by weight, of water, 1 part of caustic lime, and 1/2
part of bisulphite of 40° Bé.; next steamed during 1–2 hours at a
pressure of 1/2 atmosphere, washed, acidulated, washed and dried.
The result is as white a fabric as by the old method with caustic
lime, soda, and calcium chloride. The bisulphite may also be replaced
by calcium hydrosulphite, and, instead of steaming, the fabric may be
boiled for several hours with calcium sulphite.
III.—Bleaching of Vegetable Fibers with Hydrogen Peroxide.—Pass the
pieces through a solution containing caustic soda, soap, hydrogen
peroxide, and burnt magnesia. The pieces are piled in heaps on
carriages; the latter are shoved into the well-known apparatus of
Mather & Platt (kier), and the liquid is pumped on for 6 hours, at a
pressure of 2/3 atmosphere. Next wash, acidulate, wash and dry. The
bleaching may also be done on an ordinary reeling vat. For 5 pieces are
needed about 1,000 parts, by weight, of water; 10 parts, by weight,
of solid caustic soda; 1 part of burnt magnesia; 30 parts, by weight,
of hydrogen peroxide. After 3–4 hours’ boiling, wash, acidulate, wash
and dry. The bleaching may also be performed by passing through barium
peroxide, then through sulphuric acid or hydrochloric acid, and next
through soda lye. It is practicable also to commence with the latter
and finally give a treatment with hydrogen peroxide.
The whiteness obtained by the above process is handsomer than that
produced by the old method with hypochlorites, and the fabric is
weakened to a less extent.
«TESTS FOR COTTON.»
I.—Cotton, when freed from extraneous matter by boiling with potash,
and afterwards with hydrochloric acid, yields pure cellulose or
absorbent cotton, which, according to the U. S. P., is soluble in
copper ammonium sulphate solution. The B. P. is more specific and
states that cotton is soluble in a concentrated solution of copper
ammonium sulphate. The standard test solution (B. P.) is made by
dissolving 10 parts of copper sulphate in 160 parts of distilled
water, and cautiously adding solution of ammonia to the liquid until
the precipitate first formed is nearly dissolved. The product is
then filtered and the filtrate made up to 200 parts with distilled
{246} water. The concentrated solution is prepared by using a smaller
quantity of distilled water.
II.—Schweitzer’s reagent for textile fibers and cellulose is made
by dissolving 10 parts of copper sulphate in 100 parts of water and
adding a solution of 5 parts of potassium hydrate in 50 parts of water;
then wash the precipitate and dissolve in 20 per cent ammonia until
saturated. This solution dissolves cotton, linen, and silk, but not
wool. The reagent is said to be especially useful in microscopy, as it
rapidly dissolves cellulose, but has no action on lignin.
III.—Jandrier’s Test for Cotton in Woolen Fabrics.—Wash the sample of
fabric and treat with sulphuric acid (20 Bé.) for half an hour on the
water bath. To 100 to 200 parts of this solution add 1 part resorcin,
and overlay on concentrated sulphuric acid free from nitrous products.
The heat developed is sufficient to give a color at the contact point
of the liquids, but intensity of color may be increased by slightly
heating. If the product resulting from treating the cotton is made
up 1 in 1,000, resorcin will give an orange color; alphanaphtol a
purple; gallic acid a green gradually becoming violet down in the acid;
hydroquinone or pyrogallol a brown; morphine or codeine, a lavender;
thymol or menthol a pink. Cotton may be detected in colored goods,
using boneblack to decolorize the solution, if necessary.
IV.—Overbeck’s test for cotton in woolen consists in soaking the fabric
in an aqueous solution of alloxantine (1 in 10), and after drying
expose to ammonia vapor and rinse in water. Woolen material is colored
crimson, cotton remains blue.
V.—Liebermann’s Test.—Dye the fabric for half an hour in fuchsine
solution rendered light yellow by caustic soda solution and then washed
with water—silk is colored dark red; wool, light red; flax, pink; and
cotton remains colorless.
To Distinguish Cotton from Linen.—Take a sample about an inch and
a half square of the cloth to be tested and plunge it into a tepid
alcoholic solution of cyanine. After the coloring matter has been
absorbed by the fiber, rinse it in water and then plunge into dilute
sulphuric acid. If it is of cotton the sample will be almost completely
bleached, while linen preserves the blue color almost unchanged. If the
sample be then plunged in ammonia, the blue will be strongly reinforced.
«Aromatic Cotton.»—Aromatic cotton is produced as follows: Mix camphor,
5 parts; pine-leaf oil, 5 parts; clove oil, 5 parts; spirit of wine (90
per cent), 80 parts; and distribute evenly on cotton, 500 parts, by
means of an atomizer. The cotton is left pressed together in a tightly
closed tin vessel for a few days.
«Cotton Degreasing.»—Cotton waste, in a greasy condition, is placed
in an acid-proof apparatus, where it is simultaneously freed from
grease, etc., and prepared for bleaching by the following process,
which is performed without the waste being removed from the apparatus:
(1) treatment with a solvent, such as benzine; (2) steaming, for the
purpose of vaporizing and expelling from the cotton waste the solvent
still remaining in it after as much as possible of this has been
recovered by draining; (3) treatment with a mineral acid; (4) boiling
with an alkali lye; (5) washing with water.
«COTTONSEED HULLS AS STOCK FOOD.»
Cottonseed hulls or other material containing fiber difficult of
digestion are thoroughly mixed with about 5 per cent of their weight
of hydrochloric acid (specific gravity, 1.16), and heated in a closed
vessel, provided with a stirrer, to a temperature of 212° to 300° F.
The amount of acid to be added depends on the material employed and
on the duration of the heating. By heating for 30 minutes the above
percentage of acid is required, but the quantity may be reduced if the
heating is prolonged. After heating, the substance is ground and at the
same time mixed with some basic substances such as sodium carbonate,
chalk, cottonseed kernel meal, etc., to neutralize the acid. During
the heating, the acid vapors coming from the mixture may be led into a
second quantity of material contained in a separate vessel, air being
drawn through both vessels to facilitate the removal of the acid vapors.
COTTONSEED OIL: See Oil.
COTTONSEED OIL IN FOOD, TESTS FOR: See Foods.
COTTONSEED OIL IN LARD, DETECTION OF: See Foods and Lard.
COUGH CANDY: See Confectionery.
COUGH MIXTURES FOR CATTLE: See Veterinary Formulas. {247}
COUGH MIXTURES AND REMEDIES: See Cold and Cough Mixtures.
«Court Plasters»
(See also Plasters.)
«Liquid Court Plaster.»—I.—If soluble guncotton is dissolved in acetone
in the proportion of about 1 part, by weight, of the former to 35 or
40 parts, by volume, of the latter, and half a part each of castor oil
and glycerine be added, a colorless, elastic, and flexible film will
form on the skin wherever it is applied. Unlike ordinary collodion it
will not be likely to dry and peel off. If tinted very slightly with
alkanet and saffron it can be made to assume the color of the skin so
that when applied it is scarcely observable. A mixture of warm solution
of sodium silicate and casein, about 9 parts of the former to 1 part of
the latter, gelatinizes and forms a sort of liquid court plaster.
II.—In order to make liquid court plaster flexible, collodion, U. S.
P., is the best liquid that can possibly be recommended. It may be made
by weighing successively into a tarred bottle:
Collodion 4 av. ounces
Canada turpentine 95 grains
Castor oil 57 grains
Before applying, the skin should be perfectly dry; each application or
layer should be permitted to harden. Three or four coats are usually
sufficient.
III.—Procure an ounce bottle and fill it three-fourths full of flexible
collodion, and fill up with ether. Apply to cuts, bruises, etc., and it
protects them and will not wash off. If the ether evaporates, leaving
it too thick for use, have more ether put in to liquefy it. It is a
good thing to have in the house and in the tool chest.
COW DISEASES AND THEIR REMEDIES: See Veterinary Formulas.
CRAYONS: See Pencils.
«CRAYONS FOR GRAINING AND MARBLING.»