bottling cider, as they are strong and will stand pressure, besides
being a convenient size for consumers. In making cider champagne the
liquor should be clarified and bottled in the sweet condition, that is
to say, before the greater part of the sugar which it contains has been
converted into alcohol by fermentation. The fermentation continues, to
a certain extent, in the bottle, transforming more of the sugar into
alcohol, and the carbonic acid, being unable to escape, is dissolved
in the cider and produces the sparkling.
The greater the quantity of sugar contained in the liquor, when it is
bottled, the more complete is its carbonation by the carbonic-acid gas,
and consequently the more sparkling it is when poured out. But this is
true only within certain limits, for if the production of sugar is too
high the fermentation will be arrested.
To make the most sparkling cider the liquor is allowed to stand for
three, four, five, or six weeks, during which fermentation proceeds.
The time varies according to the nature of the apples, and also to the
temperature; when it is very warm the first fermentation is usually
completed in 7 days.
Before bottling, the liquid must be fined, and this is best done with
catechu dissolved in cold cider, 2 ounces of catechu to the barrel of
cider. This is well stirred and left to settle for a few days.
The cider at this stage is still sweet, and it is a point of
considerable nicety not to carry the first fermentation too far. The
bottle should not be quite filled, so as to allow more freedom for the
carbonic-acid gas which forms.
When the bottles have been filled, {182} corked, and wired down, they
should be placed in a good cellar, which should be dry, or else the
cider will taste of the cork. The bottles should not be laid for four
or five weeks, or breakage will ensue. When they are being laid they
should be placed on laths of wood or on dry sand; they should never be
allowed on cold or damp floors.
Should the cider be relatively poor in sugar, or if it has been
fermented too far, about 1 ounce of powdered loaf sugar can be added
to each bottle, or else a measure of sugar syrup before pouring in the
cider.
«Imitation Cider.»—
I.—A formula for an imitation cider is as follows:
Rain water 100 gallons
Honey, unstrained 6 gallons
Catechu, powdered 3 ounces
Alum, powdered 5 ounces
Yeast (brewer’s preferably) 2 pints
Mix and put in a warm place to ferment. Let ferment for about 15 days;
then add the following, stirring well in:
Bitter almonds, crushed 8 ounces
Cloves 8 ounces
Let stand 24 hours, add two or three gallons of good whiskey, and rack
off into clean casks. Bung tightly, let stand 48 hours, then bottle. If
a higher color is desired use caramel sufficient to produce the correct
tinge. If honey is not obtainable, use sugar-house molasses instead,
but honey is preferable.
II.—The following, when properly prepared, makes a passable substitute
for cider, and a very pleasant drink:
Catechu, powdered 3 parts
Alum, powdered 5 parts
Honey 640 parts
Water 12,800 parts
Yeast 32 parts
Dissolve the catechu, alum, and honey in the water, add the yeast,
and put in some warm place to ferment. The container should be filled
to the square opening, made by sawing out five or six inches of the
center of a stave, and the spume skimmed off daily as it arises. In
cooler weather from 2 weeks to 18 days will be required for thorough
fermentation. In warmer weather from 12 to 13 days will be sufficient.
When fermentation is complete add the following solution:
Oil of bitter almonds 1 part
Oil of clover 1 part
Caramel 32 parts
Alcohol 192 parts
The alcohol may be replaced by twice its volume of good bourbon
whiskey. A much cheaper, but correspondingly poor substitute for the
above may be made as follows:
Twenty-five gallons of soft water, 2 pounds tartaric acid, 25 pounds of
brown sugar, and 1 pint of yeast are allowed to stand in a warm place,
in a clean cask with the bung out, for 24 hours. Then bung up the cask,
after adding 3 gallons of whiskey, and let stand for 48 hours, after
which the liquor is ready for use.
CIDER VINEGAR: See Vinegar.
«Cigars»
«Cigar Sizes and Colors.»—Cigars are named according to their color
and shape. A dead-black cigar, for instance, is an “Oscuro,” a very
dark-brown one is a “Colorado,” a medium brown is a “Colorado Claro,”
and a yellowish light brown is a “Claro.” Most smokers know the names
of the shades from “Claro” to “Colorado,” and that is as far as most
of them need to know. As to the shapes, a “Napoleon” is the biggest of
all cigars—being 7 inches long; a “Perfecto” swells in the middle and
tapers down to a very small head at the lighting end; a “Panatela”
is a thin, straight, up-and-down cigar without the graceful curve of
the “Perfecto”; a “Conchas” is very short and fat, and a “Londres” is
shaped like a “Perfecto” except that it does not taper to so small a
head at the lighting end. A “Reina Victoria” is a “Londres” that comes
packed in a ribbon-tied bundle of 50 pieces, instead of in the usual
four layers of 13, 12, 13 and 12.
«How to Keep Cigars.»—Cigars kept in a case are influenced every time
the case is opened. Whatever of taint there may be in the atmosphere
rushes into the case, and is finally taken up by the cigars. Even
though the cigars have the appearance of freshness, it is not the
original freshness in which they were received from the factory. They
have been dry, or comparatively so, and have absorbed more moisture
than has been put in the case, and it matters not what that moisture
may be, it can never restore the flavor that was lost during the
drying-out process.
After all, it is a comparatively simple matter to take good care of
cigars. All that is necessary is a comparatively air-tight, zinc-lined
chest. This should be {183} behind the counter in a place where the
temperature is even. When a customer calls for a cigar the dealer
takes the box out of the chest, serves his customer, and then puts the
box back again. The box being opened for a moment the cigars are not
perceptibly affected. The cigars in the close, heavy chest are always
safe from atmospheric influences, as the boxes are closed, and the
chest is open but a moment, while the dealer is taking out a box from
which to serve his customer.
Some of the best dealers have either a large chest or a cool vault in
which they keep their stock, taking out from time to time whatever they
need for use. Some have a number of small chests, in which they keep
different brands, so as to avoid opening and closing one particular
chest so often.
It may be said that it is only the higher priced cigars that need
special care in handling, although the cheaper grades are not to be
handled carelessly. The Havana cigars are more susceptible to change,
for there is a delicacy of flavor to be preserved that is never present
in the cheaper grades of cigars.
Every dealer must, of course, make a display in his show case, but he
need not serve his patrons with these cigars. The shrinkage in value of
the cigars in the case is merely a business proposition of profit and
loss.
«Cigar Flavoring.»—I.—Macerate 2 ounces of cinnamon and 4 ounces of
tonka beans, ground fine, in 1 quart of rum.
II.—Moisten ordinary cigars with a strong tincture of cascarilla, to
which a little gum benzoin and storax may be added. Some persons add a
small quantity of camphor or oil of cloves or cassia.
III.—Tincture of valerian 4 drachms
Butyric aldehyde 4 drachms
Nitrous ether 1 drachm
Tincture vanilla 2 drachms
Alcohol 5 ounces
Water enough to make 16 ounces
IV.—Extract vanilla 4 ounces
Alcohol 1/2 gallon
Jamaica rum 1/2 gallon
Tincture valerian 8 ounces
Caraway seed 2 ounces
English valerian root 2 ounces
Bitter orange peel 2 ounces
Tonka beans 4 drachms
Myrrh 16 ounces
Soak the myrrh for 3 days in 6 quarts of water, add the alcohol,
tincture valerian, and extract of vanilla, and after grinding the other
ingredients to a coarse powder, put all together in a jug and macerate
for 2 weeks, occasionally shaking; lastly, strain.
V.—Into a bottle filled with 1/2 pint of French brandy put 1 1/4
ounces of cascarilla bark and 1 1/4 ounces of vanilla previously
ground with 1/2 pound of sugar; carefully close up the flask and
distil in a warm place. After 3 days pour off the liquid, and add 1/4
pint of mastic extract. The finished cigars are moistened with this
liquid, packed in boxes, and preserved from air by a well-closed lid.
They are said to acquire a pleasant flavor and mild strength through
this treatment.
«Cigar Spots.»—The speckled appearance of certain wrappers is due to
the work of a species of fungus that attacks the growing tobacco. In
a certain district of Sumatra, which produces an exceptionally fine
tobacco for wrappers, the leaves of the plant are commonly speckled in
this way. Several patents have been obtained for methods of spotting
tobacco leaves artificially. A St. Louis firm uses a solution composed
of:
Sodium carbonate 3 parts
Calx chlorinata 1 part
Hot water 8 parts
Dissolve the washing soda in the hot water, add the chlorinated lime,
and heat the mixture to a boiling temperature for 3 minutes. When cool,
decant into earthenware or stoneware jugs, cork tightly, and keep in a
cool place. The corks of jugs not intended for immediate use should be
covered with a piece of bladder or strong parchment paper, and tightly
tied down to prevent the escape of gas, and consequent weakening of the
bleaching power of the fluid. The prepared liquor is sprinkled on the
tobacco, the latter being then exposed to light and air, when, it is
said, the disagreeable odor produced soon disappears.
CINCHONA: See Wines and Liquors.
CINNAMON ESSENCE: See Essences and Extracts.
CINNAMON OIL AS AN ANTISEPTIC: See Antiseptics.
CITRATE OF MAGNESIUM: See Magnesium Citrate.
CLARET LEMONADE AND CLARET PUNCH: See Beverages, under Lemonades. {184}
CLARIFICATION OF GELATIN AND GLUE: See Gelatin.
«CLARIFYING.»
Clarification is the process by which any solid particles suspended in
a liquid are either caused to coalesce together or to adhere to the
medium used for clarifying, that they may be removed by filtration
(which would previously have been impossible), so as to render the
liquid clear.
One of the best agents for this purpose is albumen. When clarifying
vegetable extracts, the albumen which is naturally present in most
plants accomplishes this purpose easily, provided the vegetable matter
is extracted in the cold, so as to get as much albumen as possible in
solution.
Egg albumen may also be used. The effect of albumen may be increased
by the addition of cellulose, in the form of a fine magma of filtering
paper. This has the further advantage that the subsequent filtration is
much facilitated.
Suspended particles of gum or pectin may be removed by cautious
precipitation with tannin, of which only an exceedingly small amount is
usually necessary. It combines with the gelatinous substances better
with the aid of heat than in the cold. There must be no excess of
tannin used.
Another method of clarifying liquids turbid from particles of gum,
albumen, pectin, etc., is to add to them a definite quantity of
alcohol. This causes the former substances to separate in more or less
large flakes. The quantity of alcohol required varies greatly according
to the nature of the liquid. It should be determined in each case by an
experiment on a small scale.
Resinous or waxy substances, such as are occasionally met with in
honey, etc., may be removed by the addition of bole, pulped filtering
paper, and heating to boiling.
In each case the clarifying process may be hastened by making the
separating particles specifically heavier; that is, by incorporating
some heavier substance, such as talcum, etc., which may cause the
flocculi to sink more rapidly, and to form a compact sediment.
Clarifying powder for alcoholic liquids:
Egg albumen, dry 40 parts
Sugar of milk 40 parts
Starch 20 parts
Reduce them to very fine powder, and mix thoroughly.
For clarifying liquors, wines, essences, etc., take for every quart of
liquid 75 grains of the above mixture, shake repeatedly in the course
of a few days, the mixture being kept in a warm room, then filter.
Powdered talcum renders the same service, and has the additional
advantage of being entirely insoluble. However, the above mixture acts
more energetically.
«CLAY:»
«Claying Mixture for Forges.»—Twenty parts fire clay; 20 parts
cast-iron turnings; 1 part common salt; 1/2 part sal ammoniac; all by
measure.
The materials should be thoroughly mixed dry and then wet down to the
consistency of common mortar, constantly stirring the mass as the
wetting proceeds. A rough mold shaped to fit the tuyère opening, a
trowel, and a few minutes’ time are all that are needed to complete
the successful claying of the forge. This mixture dries hard and when
glazed by the fire will last.
«Plastic Modeling Clay.»—A permanently plastic clay can be obtained
by first mixing it with glycerine, turpentine, or similar bodies,
and then adding vaseline or petroleum residues rich in vaseline. The
proportion of clay to the vaseline varies according to the desired
consistency of the product, the admixture of vaseline varying from
10 to 50 per cent. It is obvious that the hardness of the material
decreases with the amount of vaseline added, so that the one richest in
vaseline will be the softest. By the use of various varieties of clay
and the suitable choice of admixtures, the plasticity, as well as the
color of the mass, may be varied.
«Cleaning Preparations and Methods»
(See also Soaps, Polishes, and Household Formulas).
«TO REMOVE STAINS FROM THE HANDS:»
«Removal of Aniline-Dye Stains from the Skin.»—Rub the stained skin
with a pinch of slightly moistened red crystals of chromic trioxide
until a distinct sensation of warmth announces the destruction of the
dye stuff by oxidation and an incipient irritation of the skin. Then
rinse with soap and water. A single application usually suffices to
remove {185} the stain. It is hardly necessary to call attention to the
poisonousness and strong caustic action of chromic trioxide; but only
moderate caution is required to avoid evil effects.
«Pyrogallic-Acid Stains on the Fingers» (see also Photography).—Pyro
stains may be prevented fairly well by rubbing in a little wool fat
before beginning work. A very effective way of eliminating developer
stains is to dip the finger tips occasionally during development
into the clearing bath. It is best to use the clearing bath, with
ample friction, before resorting to soap, as the latter seems to have
a fixing effect upon the stain. Lemon peel is useful for removing
pyro stains, and so are the ammonium persulphate reducer and the
thiocarbamide clearer.
«To Clean Very Soiled Hands.»—In the morning wash in warm water, using
a stiff brush, and apply glycerine. Repeat the application two or three
times during the day, washing and brushing an hour or so afterwards,
or apply a warm solution of soda or potash, and wash in warm water,
using a stiff brush as before. Finally, rub the hands with pumice or
infusorial earth. There are soaps made especially for this purpose,
similar to those for use on woodwork, etc., in which infusorial earth
or similar matter is incorporated.
«To Remove Nitric-Acid Stains.»—One plan to avoid stains is to use
rubber finger stalls, or rubber gloves. Nitric-acid stains can be
removed from the hands by painting the stains with a solution of
permanganate of potash, and washing off the permanganate with a 5 per
cent solution of hydrochloric (muriatic) acid. After this wash the
hands with pure castile soap. Any soap that roughens the skin should be
avoided at all times. Castile soap is the best to keep the skin in good
condition.
«CLEANING GILDED ARTICLES:»
«To Clean Gilt Frames and Gilded Surfaces Generally.»—Dip a soft brush
in alcohol to which a few drops of ammonia water has been added, and
with it go over the surface. Do not rub—at least, not roughly, or
harshly. In the course of five minutes the dirt will have become soft,
and easy of removal. Then go over the surface again gently with the
same or a similar brush dipped in rain water. Now lay the damp article
in the sunlight to dry. If there is no sunlight, place it near a warm
(but not _hot_) stove, and let dry completely. In order to avoid
streaks, take care that the position of the article, during the drying,
is not exactly vertical.
«To Clean Fire-Gilt Articles.»—Fire-gilt articles are cleaned,
according to their condition, with water, diluted hydrochloric acid,
ammonia, or potash solution. If hydrochloric acid is employed thorough
dilution with water is especially necessary. The acidity should hardly
be noticeable on the tongue.
To clean gilt articles, such as gold moldings, etc., when they have
become tarnished or covered with flyspecks, etc., rub them slowly with
an onion cut in half and dipped in rectified alcohol, and wash off
lightly with a moist soft sponge after about 2 hours.
«Cleaning Gilded and Polychromed Work on Altars.»—To clean bright
gold a fine little sponge is used which is moistened but lightly with
tartaric acid and passed over the gilding. Next go over the gilt work
with a small sponge saturated with alcohol to remove all dirt. For matt
gilding, use only a white flannel dipped in lye, and carefully wipe
off the dead gold with this, drying next with a fine linen rag. To
clean polychromed work sponge with a lye of rain water, 1,000 parts,
and calcined potash, 68 parts, and immediately wash off with a clean
sponge and water, so that the lye does not attack the paint too much.
«SPOT AND STAIN REMOVERS:»
«To Remove Aniline Stains.»—
I.—Sodium nitrate 7 grains
Diluted sulphuric acid 15 grains
Water 1 ounce
Let the mixture stand a day or two before using. Apply to the spot with
a sponge, and rinse the goods with plenty of water.
II.—An excellent medium for the removal of aniline stains, which are
often very stubborn, has been found to be liquid opodeldoc. After its
use the stains are said to disappear at once and entirely.
«Cleansing Fluids.»—A spot remover is made as follows:
I.—Saponine 7 parts
Water 130 parts
Alcohol 70 parts
Benzine 1,788 parts
Oil mirbane 5 parts
II.—Benzene (benzol) 89 parts
Ascetic ether 10 parts
Pear oil 1 part
This yields an effective grease eradicator, of an agreeable odor. {186}
III.—To Remove Stains of Sulphate of copper, or of salts of mercury,
silver, or gold from the hands, etc., wash them first with a dilute
solution either of ammonia, iodide, bromide, or cyanide of potassium,
and then with plenty of water; if the stains are old ones they should
first be rubbed with the strongest acetic acid and then treated as
above.
«Removal of Picric-Acid Stains.»—I.—Recent stains of picric acid may
be removed readily if the stain is covered with a layer of magnesium
carbonate, the carbonate moistened with a little water to form a paste,
and the paste then rubbed over the spot.
II.—Apply a solution of
Boric acid 4 parts
Sodium benzoate 1 part
Water 100 parts
III.—Dr. Prieur, of Besançon, recommends lithium carbonate for the
removal of picric-acid stains from the skin or from linen. The method
of using it is simply to lay a small pinch on the stain, and moisten
the latter with water. Fresh stains disappear almost instantly, and old
ones in a minute or two.
«To Remove Finger Marks from Books, etc.»—I.—Pour benzol (not benzine
or gasoline, but Merck’s “c. p.” crystallizable) on calcined magnesia
until it becomes a crumbling mass, and apply this to the spot, rubbing
it in lightly, with the tip of the finger. When the benzol evaporates,
brush off. Any dirt that remains can be removed by using a piece of
soft rubber.
II.—If the foregoing fails (which it sometimes, though rarely, does),
try the following: Make a hot solution of sodium hydrate in distilled
water, of strength of from 3 per cent to 5 per cent, according to the
age, etc., of the stain. Have prepared some bits of heavy blotting
paper somewhat larger than the spot to be removed; also, a blotting
pad, or several pieces of heavy blotting paper. Lay the soiled page
face downward on the blotting pad, then, saturating one of the bits
of blotter with the hot sodium hydrate solution, put it on the stain
and go over it with a hot smoothing iron. If one application does not
remove all the grease or stain, repeat the operation. Then saturate
another bit of blotting paper with a 4 per cent or 5 per cent solution
of hydrochloric acid in distilled water, apply it to the place, and
pass the iron over it to neutralize the strong alkali. This process
will instantly restore any faded writing or printing, and make the
paper bright and fresh again.
«Glycerine as a Detergent.»—For certain kinds of obstinate spots (such
as coffee and chocolate, for instance) there is no better detergent
than glycerine, especially for fabrics with delicate colors. Apply the
glycerine to the spot, with a sponge or otherwise, let stand a minute
or so, then wash off with water or alcohol. Hot glycerine is even more
efficient than cold.
«CLEANING SKINS AND LEATHER»: See also Leather.
«To Clean Colored Leather.»—Pour carbon bisulphide on non-vulcanized
gutta-percha, and allow it to stand about 24 hours. After shaking
actively add more gutta-percha gradually until the solution becomes of
gelatinous consistency. This mixture is applied in suitable quantity
to oil-stained, colored leather and allowed to dry two or three hours.
The subsequent operation consists merely in removing the coat of
gutta-percha from the surface of the leather—that is, rubbing it with
the fingers, and rolling it off the surface.
The color is not injured in the least by the sulphuret of carbon; only
those leathers on which a dressing containing starch has been used look
a little lighter in color, but the better class of leathers are not so
dressed. The dry gutta-percha can be redissolved in sulphuret of carbon
and used over again.
«To Clean Skins Used for Polishing Purposes.»—First beat them
thoroughly to get rid of dust, then go over the surface on both sides
with a piece of good white soap and lay them in warm water in which
has been put a little soda. Let them lie here for 2 hours, then wash
them in plenty of tepid water, rubbing them vigorously until perfectly
clean. This bath should also be made alkaline with soda. The skins are
finally rinsed in warm water, and dried quickly. Cold water must be
avoided at all stages of the cleansing process, as it has a tendency to
shrink and harden the skins.
The best way to clean a chamois skin is to wash and rinse it out in
clean water immediately after use, but this practice is apt to be
neglected so that the skin becomes saturated with dirt and grime. To
clean it, first thoroughly soak in clean, soft water. Then, after
soaping it and rolling it into a compact wad, beat with a small round
stick—a buggy spoke, say—turning the wad over repeatedly, and keeping
it well wet and soaped. This should suffice to loosen the dirt. Then
rinse in clean water until the skin {187} is clean. As wringing by
hand is apt to injure the chamois skin, it is advisable to use a small
clothes wringer. Before using the skin again rinse it in clear water to
which a little pulverized alum has been added.
«STRAW-HAT RENOVATION:»
«To Renovate Straw Hats.»—I.—Hats made of natural (uncolored) straw,
which have become soiled by wear, may be cleaned by thoroughly sponging
with a weak solution of tartaric acid in water, followed by water
alone. The hat after being so treated should be fastened by the rim to
a board by means of pins, so that it will keep its shape in drying.
II.—Sponge the straw with a solution of
By weight
Sodium hyposulphite 10 parts
Glycerine 5 parts
Alcohol 10 parts
Water 75 parts
Lay aside in a damp place for 24 hours and then apply
By weight
Citric acid 2 parts
Alcohol 10 parts
Water 90 parts
Press with a moderately hot iron, after stiffening with weak gum water,
if necessary.