meerschaum a lasting joint can be made between the parts by proceeding
as follows: Clean a clove or two of garlic (the fresher the better) by
removing all the outside hull of skin; throw into a little mortar and
mash to a paste. Rub this paste over each surface to be united and join
quickly. Bring the parts as closely together as possible and fasten in
this position. Have ready some boiling fresh milk; place the article in
it and continue the boiling for 30 minutes. Remove and let cool slowly.
If properly done, this makes a joint that will stand any ordinary
treatment, and is nearly invisible. For composition, use a cement made
of quicklime, rubbed to a thick cream with egg albumen.
II.—Mix very fine meerschaum shavings with albumen or dissolve casein
in water glass, stir finely powdered magnesia into the mass, and use
the cement at once. This hardens quickly.
«Asbestos Cement.»—Ground asbestos may be made into a cement which
will stand a high degree of heat by simply mixing it with a solution
of sodium silicate. By subsequent treatment with a solution of calcium
chloride the mass may be made insoluble, silicate of calcium being
formed.
A cement said to stand a high degree of heat and to be suitable for
cementing glass, porcelain, or other vessels intended to hold corrosive
acids, is this one:
I.—Asbestos 2 parts
Barium sulphate 3 parts
Sodium silicate 2 parts
By mixing these ingredients a cement strong enough to resist the
strongest nitric acid will be obtained. If hot acids are dealt with,
the following mixture will be found to possess still more resistant
powers:
II.—Sodium silicate 2 parts
Fine sand 1 part
Asbestos powder 1 part
Both these cements take a few hours to set. If the cement is wanted to
set at once, use potassium silicate instead of sodium silicate. This
mixture will be instantly effective, and possesses the same power of
resistance as the other.
«Parisian Cement.»—Mix 1 part of finely ground glass powder, obtained
by levigation, with 3 parts of finely powdered zinc oxide rendered
perfectly free from carbonic acid by calcination. Besides prepare a
solution of 1 part, by weight, of borax in a very small quantity of
hot water and mix this with 50 parts of a highly concentrated zinc
chloride solution of 1.5 to 1.6 specific gravity. As is well known the
mixture of this powder with the liquid into a soft uniform paste is
accomplished only immediately before use. The induration to a stonelike
mass takes place within a few minutes, the admixture of borax retarding
the solidification somewhat. The pure white color of the powder may be
tinted with ocher, manganese, etc., according to the shade desired.
«Strong Cement.»—Pour over well-washed and cleaned casein 12 1/2
parts of boiled linseed oil and the same amount of castor oil. Boil.
Stir actively and add a small amount of a saturated aqueous solution of
alum; remove from the fire and set aside. After a while a milky looking
fluid will separate and rise. This should be poured off. To the residue
add 120 parts of rock candy syrup and 6 parts of dextrin.
«A Cheap and Excellent Cement.»—A cheap and excellent cement, insoluble
after drying in water, petroleum, oils, carbon disulphide, etc., very
hard when dry and of very considerable tensile strength, is composed
of casein and some tannic-acid compound, as, for instance, calcium
tannate, and is prepared as follows:
First, a tannin solution is prepared either by dissolving a tannin
salt, or by extraction from vegetable sources (as barks from certain
trees, etc.), to which {31} is added clear lime water (obtained by
filtering milk of lime, or by letting the milk stand until the lime
subsides) until no further precipitation occurs, and red litmus paper
plunged in the fluid is turned blue. The liquid is now separated
from its precipitate, either by decantation or otherwise, and the
precipitate is dried. In operating with large quantities of the
substance, this is done by passing a stream of atmospheric air through
the same. The lime tannate obtained thus is then mixed with casein in
proportions running from 1:1 up to 1:10, and the mixture, thoroughly
dried, is milled into the consistency of the finest powder. This
powder has now only to be mixed with water to be ready for use, the
consistency of the preparation depending upon the use to which it is to
be put.
«Universal Cement.»—Take gum arabic, 100 parts, by weight; starch, 75
parts, by weight; white sugar, 21 parts, by weight; camphor, 4 parts,
by weight. Dissolve the gum arabic in a little water; also dissolve the
starch in a little water. Mix and add the sugar and camphor. Boil on
the water bath until a paste is formed which, on coating, will thicken.
«Cement for Ivory.»—Melt together equal parts of gutta percha and
ordinary pitch. The pieces to be united have to be warmed.
«Cement for Belts.»—Mix 50 parts, by weight, of fish glue with equal
parts of whey and acetic acid. Then add 50 parts, by weight, of garlic
in paste form and boil the whole on the water bath. At the same time
make a solution of 100 parts, by weight, of gelatin in the same
quantity of whey, and mix both liquids. To the whole add, finally,
50 parts, by weight, of 90-per-cent alcohol and, after filtration,
a cement is obtained which can be readily applied with a brush and
possesses extraordinary binding qualities.
«Cement for Chemical Apparatus.»—Melt together 20 parts of gutta
percha, 10 parts of yellow wax, and 30 parts of shellac.
«Size Over Portland Cement.»—The best size to use on Portland cement
molding for wall paper would ordinarily be glue and alum size put on
thin and warm, made in proportion of 1/2 pound of glue and same
weight of alum dissolved in separate pails, then poured together.
«Aquarium Cements.»—
I.—Litharge 3 ounces
Fine white sand 3 ounces
Plaster of Paris 3 ounces
Rosin, in fine powder 1 ounce
Linseed oil, enough.
Drier, enough.
Mix the first three ingredients, add sufficient linseed oil to make a
homogeneous paste, and then add a small quantity of drier. This should
stand a few hours before it is used. It is said that glass joined to
iron with this cement will break before it will come loose.
II.—Litharge 1 ounce
Fine white sand 1 ounce
Plaster of Paris 1 ounce
Manganese borate 20 grains
Rosin, in fine powder 3 1/2 pounds
Linseed varnish oil, enough.
III.—Take equal parts of flowers of sulphur, ammonium chloride, and
iron filings, and mix thoroughly with boiled linseed oil. Finally, add
enough white lead to form a thin paste.
IV.—Powdered graphite 6 parts
Slaked lime 3 parts
Barium sulphate 8 parts
Linseed varnish oil 7 parts
V.—Simply mix equal parts of white and red lead with a little
kettle-boiled linseed oil.
«Substitute for Cement on Grinder Disks.»—A good substitute in place of
glue or various kinds of cement for fastening emery cloth to the disks
of grinders of the Gardner type is to heat or warm the disk and apply a
thin coating of beeswax; then put the emery cloth in place and allow to
set and cool under pressure.
«Knockenplombe.»—If 1 part of thymol be mixed with 2 parts of iodoform
we obtain a substance that retains its fluidity down to 72° C.
(161.6° F.). If the temperature be carried down to 60° C. (140° F.)
it suddenly becomes solid and hard. If, in its liquid condition, this
substance be mixed intimately with an equal quantity of calcined bone,
it forms a cement that can be molded or kneaded into any shape, that,
at the temperature of the body (98° F.), becomes as hard as stone, a
fact that suggests many useful purposes to which the mixture may be put.
«Cement for General Use.»—Take gum arabic, 100 parts, by weight;
starch, 75 {32} parts by weight; white sugar, 21 parts, by weight;
camphor, 4 parts, by weight. Dissolve the gum arabic in a little water.
On the other hand, dissolve the starch also in some water. When this is
done add the sugar and the camphor and put in a water bath. Boil until
a paste is formed, which must be rather thin, because it will thicken
on cooling.
«Strong Cement.»—Pour over well-washed and cleaned casein 12 1/2
parts of boiled linseed oil and the same amount of castor oil, put on
the fire and bring to a boil; stir actively and add a small amount of
a saturated aqueous solution of alum; remove from the fire and set
aside. After standing a while a milky-looking fluid will separate at
the bottom and rise to the top. This should be poured off and to the
residue add 120 parts of rock-candy syrup and 6 parts of dextrine.
«Syndeticon.»—I.—Slake 100 parts of burnt lime with 50 parts of water,
pour off the supernatant water; next, dissolve 60 parts of lump sugar
in 160 parts of water, add to the solution 15 parts of the slaked
lime, heat to 70° or 80° C. (158° to 176° F.), and set aside, shaking
frequently. Finally dissolve 50 to 60 parts of genuine Cologne glue in
250 parts of the clear solution.
II.—A solution of 10 parts gum arabic and 30 parts of sugar in 100
parts of soda water glass.
III.—A hot solution of 50 parts of Cologne glue in 60 parts of a
20-per-cent aqueous calcium-chloride solution.
IV.—A solution of 50 parts of Cologne glue in 60 parts of acetic acid.
V.—Soak isinglass (fish bladder) in acetic acid of 70 per cent until it
swells up, then rub it up, adding a little water during the process.
«“Shio Liao.”»—Under this name the Chinese manufacture an excellent
cement which takes the place of glue, and with which gypsum, marble,
porcelain, stone, and stoneware can be cemented. It consists of the
following parts (by weight): Slaked powdered lime, 54 parts; powdered
alum, 6 parts; and fresh, well-strained blood, 40 parts. These
materials are stirred thoroughly until an intimately bound mass of
the consistency of a more or less stiff salve is obtained. In paste
form this mass is used as cement; in a liquid state it is employed for
painting all sorts of articles which are to be rendered waterproof and
durable. Cardboard covers, which are coated with it two or three times,
become as hard as wood. The Chinese paint their houses with “shio liao”
and glaze their barrels with it, in which they transport oil and other
greasy substances.
«LUTES.»
Lutes always consist of a menstruum and dissolved or suspended solids,
and they must not be attacked by the gases and liquids coming in
contact with them. In some cases the constituents of the lute react to
form a more strongly adhering mass.
The conditions of application are, in brief:
(_a_) Heating the composition to make it plastic until firmly fixed in
place.
(_b_) Heating the surfaces.
(_c_) Applying the lute with water or a volatile solvent, which is
allowed to volatilize.
(_d_) Moistening the surfaces with water, oil, etc. (the menstruum of
the lute itself).
(_e_) Applying the lute in workable condition and the setting taking
place by chemical reactions.
(_f_) Setting by hydration.
(_g_) Setting by oxidation.
These principles will be found to cover nearly all cases.
Joints should not be ill-fitting, depending upon the lute to do what
the pipes or other parts of the apparatus should do. In most cases one
part of the fitting should overlap the other, so as to make a small
amount of the lute effective and to keep the parts of the apparatus
rigid, as a luted joint is not supposed to be a particularly strong
one, but rather one quickly applied, effective while in place and
easily removed.
Very moderate amounts of the lute should be used, as large amounts are
likely to develop cracks, be rubbed off, etc.
A classification may be given as follows:
(1) Plaster of Paris.
(2) Hydraulic cement.
(3) Clay.
(4) Lime.
(5) Asphalt and pitch.
(6) Rosin.
(7) Rubber.
(8) Linseed oil.
(9) Casein and albumen.
(10) Silicates of soda and oxychloride cements.
(11) Flour and starch.
(12) Miscellaneous, including core compounds.
I. Plaster of Paris is, of course, often used alone as a paste; which
quickly {33} solidifies, for gas and wood distillation retorts, etc.,
and similar places where quickness of setting is requisite. It is more
often, however, used with some fibrous material to give it greater
strength. Asbestos is the most commonly used material of these, as it
will stand a high temperature. When that is not so important, straw,
plush trimmings, hair, etc., are used as binders, while broken stone,
glass, and various mineral substances are used as fillers, but they do
not add anything to the strength. These lutes seem to be particularly
suitable for oil vapors and hydrocarbon gases.
Formulas:
(1) Plaster and water.
(2) Plaster (wet) and asbestos.
(3) Plaster (wet) and straw.
(4) Plaster (wet) and plush trimmings.
(5) Plaster (wet) and hair.
(6) Plaster (wet) and broken stone, etc.
II. Hydraulic Cement.—Cement is used either alone or with sand,
asbestos, etc. These lutes are suitable for nitric acid. When used
with substances such as rosin or sulphur, cement is probably employed
because it is in such a fine state of division and used as a filler and
not because of any powers of setting by hydration.
Formulas:
(1) Cement—neat.
(2) Cement and asbestos.
(3) Cement and sand.
III. Clay.—This most frequently enters into the composition of lutes as
a filler, but even then the very finely divided condition of certain
grades renders it valuable, as it gives body to a liquid, such as
linseed oil, which, unless stiffened, would be pervious to a gas,
the clay in all cases being neutral. Thus, for luting pipes carrying
chlorine, a stiff paste of clay and molasses has been suggested by
Theo. Köller in _Die Surrogate_, but it soon gives way.
Formulas:
(1) Clay and linseed oil.
(2) Same, using fire clay.
(3) Clay and molasses.
(1) Is suitable for steam, etc.; (2) for chlorine, and (3) for oil
vapors.
IV. Lime is used in the old lute known as putty, which consists of
caustic lime and linseed oil. Frequently the lime is replaced by chalk
and china clay, but the lime should be, in part at least, caustic, so
as to form a certain amount of lime soap. Lime is also used in silicate
and casein compositions, which are very strong and useful, but will be
described elsewhere.
Formulas:
(1) Lime and boiled oil to stiff mass.
(2) Clay, etc., boiled oil to stiff mass.
V. Asphalt and Pitch.—These substances are used in lutes somewhat
interchangeably. As a rule, pitch makes the stronger lutes. Tar is
sometimes used, but, because of the light oils and, frequently, water
contained, it is not so good as either of the others.
Asphalt dissolved in benzol is very useful for uniting glass for
photographic, microscopical, and other uses. Also for coating wood,
concrete, etc., where the melted asphalt would be too thick to cover
well. Benzol is the cheapest solvent that is satisfactory for this
purpose, as the only one that is cheaper would be a petroleum naphtha,
which does not dissolve all the constituents of the asphalt. For
waterproofing wood, brick, concrete, etc., melted asphalt alone is
much used, but when a little paraffine is added, it improves its
waterproofing qualities, and in particular cases boiled oil is also
added to advantage.
Formulas:
1. Refined lake asphalt.
2. Asphalt 4 parts
Paraffine 1 part
3. Asphalt 10 parts
Paraffine 2 parts
Boiled oil 1 part
Any of these may be thinned with hot benzol or toluol. Toluol is
less volatile than benzol and about as cheap, if not cheaper, the
straw-colored grades being about 24 cents per gallon.
Examples of so-called “stone cement” are:
4. Pitch 8 parts
Rosin 6 parts
Wax 1 part
Plaster 1/4 to 1/2 part
5. Pitch 8 parts
Rosin 7 parts
Sulphur 2 parts
Stone powder 1 part
These compositions are used to unite slate slabs and stoneware for
domestic, engineering, and chemical purposes. Various rosin and pitch
mixtures are used for these purposes, and the proportions of these two
ingredients are determined by the consistency desired. Sulphur and
stone powder are added to prevent the formation of cracks, sulphur
acting chemically and stone powder mechanically. {34} Where the lute
would come in contact with acid or vapors of the same, limestone should
not be the powder used, otherwise it is about the best. Wax is a useful
ingredient to keep the composition from getting brittle with age.
A class of lutes under this general grouping that are much used are
so-called “marine glues” (q. v.). They must be tough and elastic. When
used for calking on a vessel they must expand and contract with the
temperature and not crack or come loose.
Formulas:
6. Pitch 3 parts
Shellac 2 parts
Pure crude rubber 1 part
7. Pitch 1 part
Shellac 1 part
Rubber substitute 1 part
These are used by melting over a burner.
VI. Rosin, Shellac, and Wax.—A strong cement, used as a stone cement,
is:
1. Rosin 8 parts
Wax 1 part
Turpentine 1 part
It has little or no body, and is used in thin layers.
For nitric and hydrochloric acid vapors:
2. Rosin 1 part
Sulphur 1 part
Fire clay 2 parts
Sulphur gives great hardness and permanency to rosin lutes, but this
composition is somewhat brittle.
Good waterproof lutes of this class are:
3. Rosin 1 part
Wax 1 part
Powdered stone 2 parts
4. Shellac 5 parts
Wax 1 part
Turpentine 1 part
Chalk, etc. 8 to 10 parts
For a soft air-tight paste for ground-glass surfaces:
5. Wax 1 part
Vaseline 1 part
6. A strong cement, without body, for metals (other than copper or
alloys of same), porcelain, and glass is made by letting 1 part of
finely powdered shellac stand with 10 parts of ammonia water until
solution is effected.
VII. Rubber.—Because of its toughness, elasticity, and resistance to
alterative influences, rubber is a very useful constituent in lutes,
but its price makes its use very limited.
Leather Cement.
1. Asphalt 1 part
Rosin 1 part
Gutta percha 4 parts
Carbon disulphide 20 parts
To stand acid vapors:
2. Rubber 1 part
Linseed oil 3 parts
Fire clay 3 parts
3. Plain Rubber Cement.—Cut the crude rubber in small pieces and then
add the solvent. Carbon disulphide is the best, benzol good and much
cheaper, but gasoline is probably most extensively used because of its
cheapness.
4. To make corks and wood impervious to steam and water, soak them in
a rubber solution as above; if it is desired to protect them from oil
vapors, use glue composition. (See Section IX.)
VIII. Linseed Oil.—This is one of the most generally useful substances
we have for luting purposes, if absorbed by a porous substance that is
inert.
Formulas: 1. China clay of general utility for aqueous vapors.
Linseed oil of general utility for aqueous vapors.
2. Lime forming the well-known putty.
Linseed oil forming the well-known putty.
3. Red or white lead and linseed oil.
These mixtures become very strong when set and are best diluted with
powdered glass, clay, or graphite. There are almost an endless number
of lutes using metallic oxides and linseed oil. A very good one, not
getting as hard as those containing lead, is:
4. Oxide of iron and linseed oil.
IX. Casein, Albumen, and Glue.—These, if properly made, become very
tough and tenacious; they stand moderate heat and oil vapors, but not
acid vapors.
1. Finely powdered casein 12 parts
Slaked lime (fresh) 50 parts
Fine sand 50 parts
Water to thick mush.
A very strong cement which stands moderate heat is the following:
2. Casein in very fine powder 1 part
Rubbed up with silicate of soda 3 parts
A strong lute for general purposes, {35} which must be used promptly
when made:
3. White of egg made into a paste with slaked lime.
A composition for soaking corks, wood, packing, etc., to render them
impervious to oil vapors, is:
Gelatine or good glue 2 parts
Glycerine 1/2 to 1 part
Water 6 parts
Oil of wintergreen, etc., to keep from spoiling.
X. Silicate of Oxychloride Cements.—For oil vapors, standing the
highest heat:
1. A stiff paste of silicate of soda and asbestos.
Gaskets for superheated steam, retorts, furnaces, etc.:
2. Silicate of soda and powdered glass; dry the mixture and heat.
Not so strong, however, as the following:
3. Silicate of soda 50 parts
Asbestos 15 parts
Slaked lime 10 parts
Metal Cement:
4. Silicate of soda 1 part
Oxides of metal, such
as zinc oxide; litharge,
iron oxide,
singly or mixed 1 part
Very hard and extra strong compositions:
5. Zinc oxide 2 parts
Zinc chloride 1 part
Water to make a paste.
6. Magnesium oxide 2 parts
Magnesium chloride 1 part
Water to make a paste.
XI. Flour and Starch Compositions.—
1. The well-known flaxseed poultice sets very tough, but does not stand
water or condensed steam.
2. Flour and molasses, made by making a stiff composition of the two.
This is an excellent lute to have at hand at all times for emergency
use, etc.
3. Stiff paste of flour and strong zinc-chloride solution forms a
more impervious lute, and is more permanent as a cement. This is good
for most purposes, at ordinary temperature, where it would not be in
contact with nitric-acid vapors or condensing steam.
4. A mixture of dextrine and fine sand makes a good composition, mainly
used as core compound.
XII. Miscellaneous.—
1. Litharge.
Glycerine.
Mixed to form a stiff paste, sets and becomes very hard and strong, and
is very useful for inserting glass tubes, etc., in iron or brass.
For a high heat:
2. Alumina 1 part
Sand 4 parts
Slaked lime 1 part
Borax 1/2 part
Water sufficient.
A class of mixtures that can be classified only according to their
intended use are core compounds.
I.—Dextrine, about 1 part
Sand, about 10 parts
With enough water to form a paste.
II.—Powdered anthracite coal, with molasses to form a stiff paste.
III.—Rosin, partly saponified by soda lye 1 part
Flour 2 parts
Sand (with sufficient water) 4 parts
(These proportions are approximate and the amount of sand can be
increased for some purposes.)
IV.—Glue, powdered 1 part
Flour 4 parts
Sand (with sufficient water) 6 parts
For some purposes the following mixture is used. It does not seem to be
a gasket or a core compound:
V.—Oats (or wheat) ground 25 parts
Glue, powdered 6 parts
Sal ammoniac 1 part
_Paper read by Samuel S. Sadtler before the Franklin Institute._
«PASTES:»
«Dextrine Pastes.»—
I.—Borax, powdered 60 parts
Dextrine, light yellow 480 parts
Glucose 50 parts
Water 420 parts
By the aid of heat, dissolve the borax in the water and add the
dextrine and glucose. Continue the heat, but do not let the mixture
boil, and stir constantly until a homogeneous solution is obtained,
from time to time renewing the water lost by evaporation with hot
water. Finally, bring up to full weight (1,000 parts) by the addition
of hot water, then strain through flannel. Prepared in this manner the
paste remains bright and clear for a long time. It has extraordinary
adhesive properties and dries very rapidly. If care is not taken to
keep the cooking temperature below the boiling point of water, the
paste is apt to become brown and to be very brittle on drying. {36}
II.—Dissolve in hot water a sufficient quantity of dextrine to bring
it to the consistency of honey. This forms a strong adhesive paste
that will keep a long time unchanged, if the water is not allowed to
evaporate. Sheets of paper may be prepared for extempore labels by
coating one side with the paste and allowing it to dry; by slightly
wetting the gummed side, the label will adhere to glass. This paste is
very useful in the office or laboratory.
III.—Pour over 1,000 parts of dextrine 450 parts of soft water and stir
the mixture for 10 minutes. After the dextrine has absorbed the water,
put the mixture over the fire, or, preferably, on a water bath, and
heat, with lively stirring for 5 minutes, or until it forms a light
milk-like liquid, on the surface of which little bubbles begin to form
and the liquid is apparently beginning to boil. Do not allow it to come
to a boil. Remove from the fire and set in a bucket of cold water to
cool off. When cold add to every 1,000 parts of the solution 51 parts
glycerine and as much salicylic acid as will stand on the tip of a
knife blade. If the solution is too thick, thin it with water that has
been boiled and cooled off again. Do not add any more glycerine or the
solution will never set.
IV.—Soften 175 parts of thick dextrine with cold water and 250 parts of
boiling water added. Boil for 5 minutes and then add 30 parts of dilute
acetic acid, 30 parts glycerine, and a drop or two of clove oil.
V.—Powder coarsely 400 parts dextrine and dissolve in 600 parts of
water. Add 20 parts glycerine and 10 parts glucose and heat to 90° C.
(195° F.).
VI.—Stir 400 parts of dextrine with water and thin the mass with 200
parts more water, 20 parts glucose, and 10 parts aluminum sulphate.
Heat the whole to 90° C. (195° F.) in the water bath until the whole
mass becomes clear and liquid.
VII.—Warm 2 parts of dextrine, 5 parts of water, 1 part of acetic acid,
1 part of alcohol together, with occasional stirring until a complete
solution is attained.