I.
Saint-Sauveur is a sloping street, both pretty and regular, bearing
no trace of the extemporized hotel or of the scenery of an opera,
and without either the rustic roughness of a village or the tarnished
elegance of a city. The houses extend without monotony, their lines of
windows encased in rough-hewn marble: on the right, they are set back
to back against pointed rocks, from which water oozes; on the left they
overhang the Gave, which eddies at the bottom of the precipice.
The bath-house is a square portico with a double row of columns, in
style at once noble and simple; the blue-gray of the marble, neither
dull nor glaring, is pleasing to the eye. A terrace {267}planted with
lindens projects over the Gave, and receives the cool breezes that rise
from the torrent toward the heights; these lindens fill the air with a
delicate and agreeable perfume. At the foot of the breast-high wall, the
water of the spring shoots forth in a white jet and falls between the
tree-tops into a depth unfathomable by the eye.
[Illustration: 292]
At the end of the village, the winding paths of an English garden
descend to the Gave; you cross its dull blue waters on a frail wooden
bridge, and {268}mount again, skirting a field of millet as far as
the road to Scia. The side of this road plunges down six hundred feet,
streaked with ravines; at the bottom of the abyss, the Gave writhes in a
rocky corridor that the noon-day sun scarce penetrates; the slope is so
rapid that, in several places, the stream is invisible; the precipice is
so deep that the roar reaches the ear like a murmur. The torrent is lost
to sight under the cornices and boils in the caverns; at every step it
whitens with foam the smooth stone. Its restless ways, its mad leaps,
its dark and livid reflexes, suggest a serpent wounded and covered with
foam. But the strangest spectacle of all is that of the wall of rocks
opposite: the mountain has been cleft perpendicularly as if by an
immense sword, and one would say that the first gash had been further
mutilated by hands, weaker, yet still infuriate. From the summit down to
the Gave, the rock is of the color of dead wood, stripped of the bark;
the prodigious tree-trunk, slit and jagged, seems mouldering away there
through the centuries; water oozes in the blackened rents as in those
of a worm-eaten block; it is yellowed by mosses such as vegetate in the
rottenness of humid oaks. Its wounds have the brown and veined hues that
one sees in the old scars of trees. It is in truth a petrified beam, a
relic of Babel. {269}The geologists are a fortunate race; they express
all this, and many things besides, when they say that the rock is
schistose.
After going a league we found a bit of meadow, two or three cottages
situated upon the gentle slope. The contrast is refreshing. And yet the
pasturage is meagre, studded with barren rocks, surrounded with fallen
debris; if it were not for a rivulet of ice-cold water, the sun would
scorch the herbage. Two children were sleeping under a walnut tree;
a goat that had climbed upon a rock was bleating plaintively and
tremblingly; three or four hens, with curious and uneasy air, were
scratching on the brink of a trench; a woman was drawing water from the
spring with a wooden porringer: such is the entire wealth of these poor
households. Sometimes they have, four or five hundred feet higher up, a
field of barley, so steep that the reaper must be fastened by a rope in
order to harvest it.
II.
The Gave is strewn with small islands, which may be reached by jumping
from one stone to another. These islands are beds of bluish rock spotted
with pebbles of a staring white; they are submerged in winter, and
now there are trunks stripped of their bark still lying here and there
{270}among the bowlders. In some hollows are remains of ooze; from these
spring clusters of elms like a discharge of fireworks, and tufts of
grass wave over the arid pebbles; around the hushed water grows warm in
the caverns. Meanwhile on two sides the mountain lifts its reddish wall,
streaked with foam by the streamlets that wind down over the surface.
Over all the flanks of the island the cascades rumble like thunder;
twenty ravines, one above another, engulf them in their chasms, and
their roar comes from all sides like the din of a battle. A mist flashes
back and floats above all this storm: it hangs among the trees and
opposes’ its fine cool gauze to the burning of the sun.
III.
In clear weather I have often climbed the mountain before sunrise.
During the night, the mist of the Gave, accumulated in the gorges, has
filled them to overflowing; under foot there is a sea of clouds, and
overhead a dome of tender blue radiant with morning splendor; everything
else has disappeared; nothing is to be seen but the luminous azure of
heaven and the dazzling satin of the clouds; nature wears her vesture
of purity. The eye glides with pleasure over the softly rounded forms of
the aerial mass. {271}
[Illustration: 297]
{272}{273}In its bosom the crests stand forth like promontories; the
mountain tops that it bathes rise like an archipelago of rocks; it
buries itself in the jagged gulfs, and waves slowly around the peaks
that it gains. The harshness of the bald crests heightens the grace
of its ravishing whiteness. But it evaporates as it rises; already the
landscapes of the depths appear under a transparent twilight; the middle
of the valley discovers itself. There remains of the floating sea only
a white girdle, which trails along the declivities; it becomes torn, and
the shreds hang for a moment to the tops of the trees; the last tufts
take flight, and the Gave, struck by the sun glitters around the
mountain like a necklace of diamonds.
IV.
Paul and I have gone to Bareges; the road is a continual ascent for two
leagues.
An alley of trees stretches between a brook and the Gave. The water
leaps from every height; here and there a crowd of little mills is
perched over the cascades; the declivities are sprinkled with them.
It is amusing to see the little things nestled in the hollows of the
colossal slopes. And yet their slated roofs smile and gleam among the
foliage. There is nothing here that is not gracious and lovely; the
banks of the Gave preserve their freshness {274}under the burning sun;
the small streams scarcely leave between themselves and it a narrow band
of green; one is surrounded by running waters; the shadow of the ashes
and alders trembles in the fine grass; the trees shoot up with a superb
toss, in smooth columns, and only spread forth in branches at a height
of forty feet. The dark water in the trench of slate grazes the green
stems in its course; it runs so swiftly that it seems to shiver.
[Illustration: 299]
On the opposite side of the torrent, the poplars rise one above another
on the verdant hill; their palish leaves stand out against the pure blue
of the sky; they quiver and shine at the slightest wind. {275}Flowering
brambles descend the length of the rock and reach the tips of the waves.
Further off, the back of the mountain, loaded with brushwood, stretches
out in a warm tint of dark blue. The distant woods sleep in this
envelope of living moisture, and the earth impregnated by it seems to
inhale with it force and pleasure.
[Illustration: 300]
V.
Soon the mountains grow bald, the trees disappear; nothing upon the
slopes but a poor {276}brushwood: Bareges is seen. The landscape is
hideous. The flank of the mountain is creviced with whitish slides; the
narrow and wasted plain disappears beneath the coarse sand; the poor
herbage, dry and weighed down, fails at every step; the earth is as if
ripped open, and the slough, through its yawning wound, exposes the very
entrails; the beds of yellowish limestone are laid bare; one walks on
sands and trains of rounded pebbles; the Gave itself half disappears
under heaps of grayish stones, and with difficulty gets out of the
desert it has made. This broken-up soil is as ugly as it is melancholy;
the debris are dirty and mean; they date from yesterday; you feel that
the devastation begins anew with every year. Ruins, in order to be
beautiful, must be either grand or blackened by time; here, the stones
have just been unearthed, they are still soaking in the mud; two miry
streamlets creep through the gullies: the place reminds one of an
abandoned quarry.
The town of Bareges is as ugly as its avenue; melancholy houses, ill
patched up; at some distance apart are long rows of booths and wooden
huts, where handkerchiefs and poor ironmongery are sold. It is because
the avalanche accumulates every winter in a mountain crevice on the
left, and as it slides down carries off a side of the street; these
booths are a scar. The cold mists collect {277}here, the wind penetrates
and the little town is uninhabitable in winter.
[Illustration: 302]
The around is enshrouded un der fifteen feet of snow; all the
inhabitants emigrate; seven or eight mountaineers are left here with
provisions, to watch over the houses and the furniture. It often happens
that these poor people cannot get as far as Luz, and remain imprisoned
during several weeks.
The bathing establishment is miserable, the compartments are cellars
without air or light; there are only sixteen cabinets, all dilapidated.
Invalids are often obliged to bathe at night. The three pools are fed
by water which has just served for the bathing-tubs; that for the poor
receives the water discharged from the other two. {278}These pools,
_piscines,_ are low and dark, a sort of stifling, under-ground prison.
One must have pretty good health in order to be cured in them.
[Illustration: 303]
The military hospital, banished to the north of the little town, is a
melancholy plastered building, whose windows are ranged in rows with
military regularity. The invalids, wrapped in a gray cloak too large for
them, climb one by one the naked slope, and seat themselves among the
stones; they bask whole hours in the sun, and look straight before them
with a resigned air. An invalid’s days are so long! These wasted faces
resume an air of {279}gayety when a comrade passes; they exchange
a jest: even in a hospital, at Bareges even, a Frenchman remains a
Frenchman.
You meet poor old men on crutches, invalids, climbing the steep street.
Those visages reddened by the inclement air, those pitiful bent or
twisted limbs, the swollen or enfeebled flesh, the dull eyes, already
dead, are painful to behold. At their age, habituated to misery,
they ought to feel only the suffering of the moment, not to trouble
themselves about the past, and no longer to care for the future. You
need to think that their torpid soul lives on like a machine. They are
the ruins of man alongside those of the soil.
The aspect of the west is still more sombre. An enormous mass of
blackish and snowy peaks girdles the horizon. They are hung over the
valley like an eternal threat. Those spines so rugged, so manifold, so
angular, give to the eye the sensation of an invincible hardness. There
comes from them a cold wind, that drives heavy clouds towards Bareges;
nothing is gay but the two jewelled streamlets which border the street
and prattle noisily over the blue pebbles.
[Illustration: 304]
{280}
VI.
In order to console ourselves here, we have read some charming letters;
here is one of them from the little Duc du Maine, seven years old, whom
Mme. de Maintenon had brought here to be cured. He wrote to his mother
Mme. de Montespan, and the letter must certainly pass under the king’s
eyes. What a school of style was that court!
“I am going off to write all the news of the house for thy diversion, my
dear little heart, and I shall write far better when I shall think
that it is for you, madame. Mme. de Maintenon spends all her time in
spinning, and, if they would let her, she would also give up her nights
to it, or to writing. She toils daily for my mind; she has good hope of
making something of it, and the darling too, who will do all he can to
have some brains, for he is dying with the desire of pleasing the king
and you. On the way here I read the history of Cæsar, am at present
reading that of Alexander, and shall soon commence that of Pompey. La
Couture does not like to lend me Mme. de Maintenon’s petticoats, when I
want to disguise myself as a girl. I have received the letter you write
to the dear little darling; I was delighted with it; I will do what you
bid me, if only to please you, for I love {281}you superlatively. I
was, and am still, charmed with the little nod that the king gave me on
leaving, but was very ill pleased that thou didst not seem to me sorry:
thou wast beautiful as an angel.”
Could any one be more gracious, more flattering, insinuating or
precocious? To please was a necessity at that time, to please people of
the world, quick-witted people. Never were men more agreeable; because
there was never greater need of being agreeable. This youth, brought
up among petticoats, took on from the beginning a woman’s vivacity, her
coquetry and smiles. You see that he gets upon their knees, receives
and gives embraces, and is amusing; there is no prettier trinket in the
_salon._
Mme. de Maintenon, devout, circumspect and politic, also writes, but
with the clearness and brevity of a worldly abbess or a president in
petticoats. “You see that I take courage in a place more frightful than
I can tell you; to crown the misery, we are freezing here. The company
is poor; they respect and bore us. All the women are ill continually;
they are loungers who have found the world really great as soon as ever
they have been at Etampes.”
We have amused ourselves with this raillery, dry, disdainful, clear-cut
and somewhat too short, and I have maintained to Paul that Mme. de
{282}Maintenon resembles the yews at Versailles, brushy extinguishers
that are too closely clipped. Whereupon I spoke very ill of the
landscapes of the seventeenth century, of Le Nôtre, Poussin and
his architectural nature, Leclerc, Perelle, and of their abstract,
conventional trees, whose majestically rounded foliage agrees with that
of no known species. He lectured me severely, according to his custom,
and called me narrow-minded; he maintains that all is beautiful; that
all that is necessary is to put yourself at the right point of view. His
reasoning was nearly as follows:
He claims that things please us by contrast, and that beautiful things
are different for different souls. “One day,” said he, “I was travelling
with some English people in Champagne, on a cloudy day in September.
They found the plains horrible, and I admirable. The dull fields
stretched out like a sea to the very verge of the horizon, without
encountering a hill. The stalks of the close-reaped wheat dyed the earth
with a wan yellow; the plain seemed covered with an old wet mantle.
Here were lines of deformed elms; here and there a meagre square of
fir-trees; further off a cottage of chalk with its white pool: from
furrow to furrow the sun trailed its sickly light, and the earth,
emptied of its fruits, was like a woman dead in child-bed whose infant
they have taken away. {283}
[Illustration: 308]
{284}
{285}“My companions were utterly bored, and called down curses on France.
Their minds, strained by the rude passions of politics, by the national
arrogance, and the stiffness of scriptural morality, needed repose.
They wanted a smiling and flowery country, meadows soft and still,
fine shadows, largely and harmoniously grouped on the slopes of the
hills..The sunburnt peasants, dull of countenance, sitting near a pool
of mud, were disagreeable to them. For repose, they dreamed of pretty
cottages set in fresh turf, fringed with rosy honeysuckle. Nothing could
be more reasonable. A man obliged to hold himself upright and unbending
finds a sitting posture the most beautiful..
“You go to Versailles, and you cry out against the taste of the
seventeenth century. Those formal and monumental waters, the firs turned
in the lathe, the rectangular staircases heaped one above another, the
trees drawn up like grenadiers on parade, recall to you the geometry
class and the platoon school. Nothing can be better. But cease for an
instant to judge according to your habits and wants of the day. You
live alone, or at home, on a third floor in Paris, and spend four hours
weekly in the saloons of some thirty different people. Louis XIV. lived
eight hours a day, every day the whole year long, in public, and this
public included all the lords of France. He held his {286}drawing-room
in the open air; the drawing-room is the park at Versailles. Why ask
of it the charms of a valley? These squared hedges of hornbeam are
necessary that the embroidered coats may not be caught. This levelled
and shaven turf is necessary that high-heeled shoes may not be wetted.
The duchesses will form a circle about these circular sheets of
water. Nothing can be better chosen than these immense and symmetrical
staircases for showing off the gold and silver laced robes of three
hundred ladies. These large alleys, which seem empty to you, were
majestic when fifty lords in brocade and lace displayed here their
_cordons bleus_ and their graceful bows. No garden is better
constructed for showing one’s self in grand costume and in great
company, for making a bow, for chatting and concocting intrigues of
gallantry and business. You wish perhaps to rest, to be alone, to dream;
you must go elsewhere; you have come to the wrong gate: but it would
be the height of absurdity to blame a drawing-room for being a
drawing-room.
“You understand then that our modern taste will be as transitory as
the ancient; that is to say, that it is precisely as reasonable and as
foolish. We have the right to admire wild, uncultivated spots, as
once men had the right of getting tired in them. Nothing uglier to the
seventeenth century {287}than a true mountain. It recalled a thousand
ideas of misfortune.
[Illustration: 312]
“The men who had come out from the civil wars and semi-barbarism thought
of famines, of long journeys on horseback through rain and snow, of
the wretched black bread mingled with straw, of the foul hostelries,
infested with vermin. They were tired of barbarism as we of
civilization. To-day the streets are so clean, the police so abundant,
the houses drawn out in such regular lines, manners are so peaceful,
events so small and so clearly foreseen, that we love grandeur and the
unforeseen. The landscape changes as literature does: then literature
furnished long {288}sugary romances and elegant dissertations;
now-a-days it offers spasmodic poetry and a physiological drama.
Landscape is an unwritten literature; the former like the latter is a
sort of flattery addressed to our passions, or a nourishment proffered
to our needs.
[Illustration: 313]
“These old wasted mountains, these lacerating points, bristling by
myriads, these formidable fissures whose perpendicular wall plunges
with a spring down into invisible depths; this chaos of monstrous ridges
heaped together, and crushing {289}each other like an affrighted herd of
leviathans; this universal and implacable domination of the naked rock,
the enemy of all life, refreshes us after our pavements, our offices and
our shops. You only love them from this cause, and this cause removed,
they would be as unpleasant to you as to Madame de Maintenon.”
[Illustration: 314]
So that there are fifty sorts of beauty,--one for every age.
“Certainly.”
Then there is no such thing as beauty.
“That is as if you were to say that a woman is nude because she has
fifty dresses.” {290}
[Illustration: 315]