SECOND VISIT TO LONDON.

Before Mr. Taylor left Helpston, he gave his client an invitation to come

up to London, and spend a few weeks at his house. Perhaps the offer was

meant only as a polite phrase, or a 'general invitation;' however, Clare,

unaquainted with the ways of good society, took it to be a special

summons, and, after due reflection, made up his mind to visit the great

metropolis once more. He fixed the journey, to him a great undertaking,

for the spring of 1822, and, remembering former miseries, decided upon

going this time in a new suit of clothes, expressly ordered at Stamford.

The winter of 1821-2 Clare spent at home, in comparative idleness.

Visitors continued to drop in from various places, and the little cottage

being too small to entertain them, he got into the regular habit of

meeting them at the 'Blue Bell.' The custom, originating in this way,

became a fatal one before long. Clare began to look upon the public house

as his second home, and the corner seat near the fire-place as one

specially appropriated to him, and which he ought to fill every evening.

Fortunately, he was not enabled to indulge the habit to its utmost

extent. Frequent excursions to Stamford, and sometimes to Peterborough,

where he found a few good friends, drew him away from the 'Blue

Bell,'--though sometimes to places where ale and spirits flowed as

rapidly and were consumed with as much relish as at the little inn at

Helpston. It was altogether a fatal period of excitement, threatening to

the future of the warm-hearted and but too susceptible poet.

The winter thus passed, and Clare got ready in the spring to start for

London. He had hoped to travel, as before, in the company of Octavius

Gilchrist; but found, at the last moment, that this was impossible. Poor

Mr. Gilchrist was lying ill at his house at Stamford, the dreadful battle

with the Rev. Mr. Bowles and all the Bowles family having thrown him on a

bed of sickness. Unaccustomed, like his more hardy brethren of the

metropolitan press, to fight with the windmills of periodical literature,

and to throw fire from his nostrils without burning himself, he had taken

the whole Bowles campaign too much to heart, and was bleeding from the

strokes which he had given as much as the wounds he had received. His

mind was deeply impressed with the notion, that he had suffered defeat on

some, if not on many points, and there being no stout-hearted literary

lion within reach of his grocery store, to cheer his spirits and console

him in his affliction, he began to feel sick and weary. All entreaties of

his friends to come to London he absolutely refused, and there remained

nothing for Clare but to set out alone. The due preparations having been

made, he went to Stamford, one fine morning, in the month of May, mounted

the outside of the coach, and was whirled away, through Northamptonshire,

Huntingdon, and Beds, to the metropolis. Discharged, once more, at the

'George and Blue Boar,' Holborn, he was bold enough to steer, unaided,

through the intricate thoroughfares of London, and reached the haven in

Fleet Street without accident. Mr. John Taylor looked somewhat surprised

on beholding his poet, carrying a big stick in one hand, and in the other

a large bundle tied in a coloured pocket handkerchief, with a pair of

hob-nailed boots sticking out on each side. However, a gentleman born and

bred, he smiled pleasantly, helped to unpack Clare's bundle, and made him

welcome to his house. Supper and wine contributed to break the ice, and

Mr. John Taylor discovered, for the first time, that his guest from the

country was a very pleasant companion.

The busy bookseller of Fleet Street had no time to play the cicerone;

therefore, on the morning after Clare's arrival, he delivered him

formally over to Mr. Thomas Hood, subeditor of the 'London Magazine.' But

Mr. Hood, too--just rising into fame, thanks to 'Elia' and other

friends--thought he had no time to spare, and left him to Tom Benyon, the

much-respected head-porter of the firm of Taylor and Hessey. When Thomas

Hood came to know John Clare a little better, he paid more attention to

his charge; but this did not happen till at the end of two or three

weeks. Meanwhile Clare amused himself as best he could, guided wherever

he wished to go by the faithful Tom. One of his first visits was to Mrs.

Emmerson, who received him in the most affectionate manner, and invited

him to dine daily at her house. The invitation was freely accepted, and

Clare for some time spent his afternoon and the early part of the evening

regularly at the lady's house at Stratford Place, Oxford Street. Clare

here met again his old friend and patron, Lord Radstock, besides a goodly

number of the literary and artistic celebrities of the day. He found few

friends, or men he liked, among the authors; but more among the painters

into whose company he was thrown. With some of them he struck an intimate

acquaintance, particularly with Mr. Rippingille, an artist of some note

in his day. The latter was very fond of long rambles through London, and

very fond of pale ale, too; and Clare sharing both these likings, the two

were constantly together. Many an evening, after leaving Mrs. Emmerson's

house--which happened, nearly always, immediately after dinner--the

artist and poet set out together on a journey of exploration, visiting

unknown parts of the metropolis, the haunts of thieves and vagabonds.

When getting tired of this amusement, they directed their researches into

other quarters, inspecting all the small theatres, exhibitions, and

concert rooms, down to the very lowest. The progress of this movement was

interrupted by an unexpected event. One evening, when visiting the

Regency Theatre, in Tottenham Court Road, both were fascinated by the

charms of a beautiful young actress, a native of France, figuring in the

play-bills as Mademoiselle Dalia. Clare's susceptible heart took fire at

once; and friend Rippingille was not behind in the sudden burst of his

affections. They both vowed eternal love to the fair actress, and, as a

commencement, Rippingille drew her portrait, after the dictate of his

fancy, while Clare added to it a passionate effusion in verse. The

artistic-poetical gift was duly despatched to Mademoiselle Dalia, but

elicited no reply. Night after night, poet and painter took their seat

within the temple of the muses in Tottenham Court Road; but night after

night they waited in vain for a glance from the beautiful eyes of

Mademoiselle Dalia, although they had taken care to inform her that they

were sitting, arm in arm, in front of the pit. The neglect of

Mademoiselle preyed upon their minds; they pined away, the two friends,

and drank more pale ale than ever.

Clare's excursions with his friend kept him generally till after midnight

from his residence, which was a great source of annoyance to the

methodical bookseller of Fleet Street. Mr. Thomas Hood thereupon got

instructions to tell Clare that early hours would be more acceptable to

his host; which instructions were communicated by commission, in due

business course, through the faithful Tom, the head-porter. Clare felt

offended, and informed Mrs. Emmerson of what had happened; making a full

confession of his sorrows, even those concerning the too beautiful

Mademoiselle Dalia. Mrs. Emmerson deeply sympathised with her poetical

friend, telling him at the same time that he would be welcome to stay at

her house if he liked. The offer was accepted, and Clare marched back

straightway to Fleet Street, gathered his property, including the boots,

within the coloured pocket-handkerchief, and came back in triumph to

Stratford Place. That same evening, thinking himself more at liberty in

his new quarters, he undertook a somewhat longer excursion with Mr.

Rippingille. After staying punctually through the performance in the

Tottenham Court Road Theatre, sighing over the enchanting looks of

Mademoiselle, the friends adjourned to a neighbouring public-house, and

from thence to a tavern known as Offley's, famous for its Burton ale. The

ale was unusually good this evening, and the company too was unusually

good, which combined attraction made the friends remain in their place

till long after their wonted time. Talking about poetry and high art, and

talking still more about Mademoiselle Dalia and her angelic charms, the

hours slipped away like minutes, and the first rosy clouds of a bright

June morning began to appear in the east before they were able to quit

Offley's hospitable roof. Shaking hands once more at the door,

Rippingille took his way, with somewhat faltering step, to his lodgings

in Oxford Street; while Clare, rather more steady in his gait, went

straight to Mrs. Emmerson's residence. He discovered Stratford Place with

the help of a sympathetic watchman; but was unable to get an entrance

into his temporary home. Mrs. Emmerson, after waiting for her guest till

towards the dawn of day, had gone to bed, thinking that he might have

taken his way back to his old quarters in Meet Street. The combined

efforts of Clare and the friendly watchman having proved fruitless to get

into the house, nothing remained but to seek some other shelter. But

there were no places open anywhere, and the poet, beginning to feel very

tired, resolved to take the advice of his companion, and creep into the

inside of a hackney coach, drawn up in a yard. The kind watchman

carefully shut the door, and Clare, finding the place uncommonly snug and

comfortable, fell asleep immediately.

Sweet dreams soon filled the mind of the poet. There dame visions of

green fields decked with flowers; of large banqueting rooms thronged with

beautiful ladies; and of theatres crowded by joyous multitudes; and right

in the midst of all these apparitions stood the enchanting fairy of

Tottenham Court Road. She approached him; she pierced his heart with a

smile of her dark eyes; at last she kissed him. The touch of her lips was

like an electric shock, and he sprang to his feet. But he could not

stand; something was moving under him. He rubbed his eyes; rubbed them

again and again; and at last discovered that he was inside a square box,

drawn along by two horses. Gradually the events of the past day and night

arose from out the mist of his dreams and fancies, and he began to be

conscious that he was sitting in the identical hackney coach into which

his friend, the watchman, had put him. The difficulty settled as to how

he got in, there came the more perplexing question as to how he should

get out again. The coachman was evidently unaware of the presence of a

poet in his box, and a too sudden revelation of the fact, Clare feared,

might produce the worst consequences. Viewed from the back, he seemed a

grim, ferocious-looking fellow, the terrible driver of the hackney-coach.

He kept whipping his horses continually, and faster and faster the

vehicle jolted along, Clare hiding his face in the cushions, in bitter

anguish of heart. At last the coach stopped in front of a public-house. A

fervent prayer arose in the mind of the traveller that his coachman would

go inside and take something to drink. Part of the prayer was fulfilled,

for the man did take something to drink, though he did not go inside. A

lounger at the gate, with whom he seemed on familiar terms, appeared in a

moment with a glass in his hand, containing a steaming liquid, which the

man with the whip gulped down in an instant, and then prepared to ascend

his seat again. But Clare now began to think that he had travelled far

enough, and, in a desperate leap, jumped out of his coach, and nearly

overturned the astonished driver. The latter, however, had him by the

collar in an instant, crying, 'And who are you?' Clare tried to explain;

introducing himself as author of 'Poems of Rural Life,' and the 'Village

Minstrel,' in two volumes, with engravings. But the hackney man, learning

these facts, frowned more grimly than ever, his mind evidently full of

grave doubts. After short reflection, he carefully examined the inside of

the coach, and giving his victim a good shake, asked him how much money

he had in his possession. Clare, trembling all over, took out his purse,

and found he had ten shillings and a few pence. The terrible coachman

grasped the purse, gave the owner a slap on the back as a receipt, and

with a valedictory 'Go along, you scamp!' dismissed the unhappy poet.

John Clare felt faint and ready to sink to the ground; but fear gave him

courage, and he ran away as fast as he could. It was not long before he

discovered that he was, after all, not far from his dwelling in Stratford

Place. Having obtained entrance, he sank down utterly exhausted in an

arm-chair, to the intense astonishment of Mrs. Emmerson.

When Clare had somewhat recovered himself, the questioning commenced.

Although reluctant to tell his whole story, his vigilant hostess

extracted it piece by piece, and finally broke out into an immoderate fit

of laughter. Clare was surprised, and somewhat offended; but felt too

weak for opposition or remonstrance. Even his desire that the affair

should be kept as secret as possible was met with renewed merriment, the

reply being that, before saying more, he should take some refreshment. A

good luncheon, with liberal supply of sherry, had the effect of bringing

Clare's feelings more in accordance with those of Mrs. Emmerson. He was

himself inclined to laugh at his droll adventure in the hackney coach,

and thought he should be ready almost to shake hands with the terrible

driver. In this vein of good humour, Mrs. Emmerson got ready permission

to tell his curious adventure to whomsoever she liked--even in his

presence at the dinner-table. The stipulation was fulfilled to the

letter. There was a grand party that evening at Mrs. Emmerson's house,

and, towards the end of the entertainment, when all were in good spirits,

the fair hostess told the story of the poet in the hackney coach. She

told it in good dramatic style, embellishing it a little, and heightening

the effect of some of the incidents. But she was not allowed to tell it

uninterruptedly. There broke forth such a storm of laughter on all sides

as seemed to shake the very table, and not a few of the guests appeared

absolutely convulsed with merriment. Clare good-humouredly joined in the

general hilarity, for which he was recompensed by having his health

drunk, with full bumpers, by the whole assembly. After which, in special

honour of Clare's ingenious method of declaring his identity to a hackney

coachman, there came, amidst universal delight, another toast to 'The

Village Minstrel in London.'

At the house of Mrs. Emmerson, Clare stayed about a week, and then

accepted an invitation of the Rev. H. T. Cary, the translator of Dante,

who had met him previously at Mr. Taylor's office. Mr. Gary was living at

Chiswick, in an old ivy-covered mansion, formerly inhabited by Sir James

Thornhill, the painter, and after him by his famous son-in-law, Hogarth.

Clare spent some pleasant days here, his kind host pointing out to him

various memorials connected with the great satirist and moralist--the

window through which Hogarth eloped with old Thornhill's only daughter;

the place where he painted the 'Rake's Progress;' and the spot in the

garden where he buried his faithful dog, with the inscription, 'Life to

the last enjoyed, here Pompey lies.' There were agreeable excursions,

too, from Chiswick to the neighbouring places, particularly to Richmond,

where Clare visited Thompson's monument on the hill, as well as his

tombstone in the old church, which, covered as it was with cobwebs, he

thought much less beautiful than that of Hogarth's dog. It was Clare's

intention to stop at least a week with his kind host at Chiswick, but an

awkward circumstance occasioned his departure at the end of a few days.

The reverend translator of Dante's 'Inferno' introduced his guest in a

careless sort of way to his house, without presenting the various members

of his family, and the consequence was that Clare fell into a grievous

mistake from the beginning. Mr. Cary had several grown-up children, and a

beautiful young wife, looking of the same age as his daughters. In the

round of excitement through which he had gone, and with his head still

full of the charming Mademoiselle Dalia, of Tottenham, Court Road, Clare

thought it incumbent upon him to write verses at the old ivy-covered

mansion, the more so as the owner had emphatically introduced him as

author of 'I love thee, sweet Mary.' So he began by penning delicate

sonnets, dedicated to the lady whom he deemed the fairest of the

daughters of the Rev. Mr. Cary, or, in point of fact, to his wife. Mrs.

Gary, on getting the first poetical epistle, held it to be a declaration

of lore, and, very properly, burnt the paper. But getting a second piece

of poetry, somewhat mystic in expression, she showed it to her husband,

who, being an elderly gentleman with a wig, got very excited over the

matter. He took Clare aside on the instant, telling him, with much

warmth, that it was not the custom at Chiswick to make love to other

men's wives, and that, however much he admired his sonnets, he did not

like his mode of distributing them. Clare was thunderstruck on learning

that he had been addressing Mrs. Gary instead of the fair daughter of the

house, and, for a moment, was almost unable to speak. Recovering himself,

he stammered forth his simple tale, hiding nothing, nor trying to excuse

his conduct. It was impossible to listen and not believe his words. The

Rev. Mr. Gary perceived at once the ridiculous error into which he had

fallen, and shaking Clare's hand in a most affectionate manner, bade him

think no more of the whole affair, and for the future distribute as many

specimens of his poetry as he liked to his wife and daughters. Clare

fully appreciated the kindness which distated this offer; however, he

thought that it was impossible for him to stop any longer at the house.

He insisted upon leaving at once, and Mr. Gary, finding all his

persuasions fruitless, accompanied him back to London. It was Clare's

intention to return to Helpston immediately, but going to the shop of his

publishers in Fleet Street, he heard that Octavius Gilchrist had arrived

the previous day, and wished to see him. He therefore took up his

quarters once more at the house of Mr. Taylor. The great battle with the

Bowles' family and the book-grinding windmills had made poor Mr.

Gilchrist really and seriously ill. The doctors of Stamford shook their

heads, talking of nervous affection, of change of air, and of rest from

the cares of grocery and literature. With every succeeding day, the men

of science got to look more and more mournful, until the patient felt as

if he was going already through the process of being buried. One morning,

thereupon, he took a desperate resolution. Although ordered not to leave

his room on any account, he went to the stage coach, engaged the

box-seat, and bravely rode up to London. Mr. Gilchrist was really fond of

Clare, and had no sooner arrived than he went in search of him. Clare

consented to stay a little longer in town, partly at the house of Mr.

John Taylor, and partly at that of Herr Burkhardt, Mr. Gilchrist's

brother-in-law. The jolly watchmaker in the Strand was overjoyed on

seeing his rural friend again, fancying to get another opportunity to

show the lions of London. But Clare soon proved to him that by this time

he knew more about the big metropolis, its theatres and concert-rooms,

its taverns and alehouses, and even its beggars' and thieves' slums, than

many a native of Cockaigne, and Herr Burkhardt, therefore, was compelled,

much against his wish, to leave him alone. Mr. Rippingille having

meanwhile taken his departure for Bristol, vainly trying to persuade his

friend to follow him thither, Clare was left almost entirely in the

company of Mr. Gilchrist. The latter introduced him to a great many of

his acquaintances; first and foremost to Mr. William Gifford. Clare felt

somewhat abashed when admitted into the presence of the renowned editor

of the 'Quarterly Review,' whose pen had so much contributed to his rise

in the world. Mr. Gifford, who was sitting on a couch, surrounded by an

immense quantity of books and papers, received the poet in a very

friendly manner, making some judicious remarks about the 'Village

Minstrel,' which he declared to be vastly superior to the 'Poems of Rural

Life.' This gave Clare courage, and he freely entered into a lengthened

conversation, in the course of which the editor of the 'Quarterly' took

care to warn him, with much emphasis, to be on his guard against

booksellers and publishers. Leaving Mr. Gifford, Octavius Gilchrist,

somewhat maliciously, took his friend direct to one of the dreaded class

of publishers against which he had just been warned. They went to the

house of Mr. Murray, in Albemarle Street, in front of which stood a

number of brilliant carriages. Mr. Gilchrist and his friend had to wait

some time in an anteroom; but, once admitted, both were received with

great cordiality. Clare was much pleased with the simple, hearty manner

of the great patron of literature; and the pleasure appeared to be

mutual, for Mr. Murray, in his turn, began to converse in a very

unrestrained manner, and, on leaving, bade Clare never to come to London

without seeing him. Quitting the house in Albemarle Street, Clare ran

right against Mr. Gifford, who was coming up the steps. Both apologised,

and both felt somewhat confused concerning the thankless old business of

giving and taking advice.

During the remaining part of his stay in London, Clare was much in

company with Mr. Thomas Hood. The genial sub-editor of the 'London

Magazine' had found out by this time that Mr. Taylor's guest was

something more than a mere spinner of verses and glorifier of daisies and

buttercups, and, having made this discovery, he got anxious to be in

Clare's company. The acquaintance soon grew intimate, and Clare followed

his new friend wherever he chose to take him. First on the list stood the

house of Mr. Charles Lamb, to which they went on a pilgrimage late one

evening. 'Elia' was in splendid good humour; comfortably ensconced in a

large arm-chair, with a huge decanter at his right hand, and a huge

bronze snuff-box, from which he continually helped himself, on his left.

Clare having been formally introduced, Charles Lamb took a whole handful

of snuff, and falling back in his armchair, stuttered out an atrocious

pun concerning rural poets and hackney coaches. Seeing that his guest

looked somewhat displeased, he took him under closer treatment at his

right hand, and with the help of the big decanter, soon put him into

excessive good humour. The conversation now became general, and Clare

thought he had never met with such an agreeable companion as the great

'Elia.' Till late at night, the drinking and talking continued, until at

last Charles Lamb's sister, the motherly Bridget, came into the room,

delivering an eloquent lecture upon the value of sobriety. When Clare

looked serious: 'Do ... do ... don't be offended, my boy,' quoth Charles,

'we all know the virtue of rustic swine-I me ... me ... mean of a rustic

swain!' Which saying, 'Elia' pushed on his decanter. But it was too much

for Clare. 'I must _goo_,' he said. And go he did accordingly.

The return journey to Stamford which Clare and Octavius Gilchrist had

arranged to make together, was made impossible, on the part of the

latter, by his continued illness. In order to find absolute rest,

together with kind attention, Mr. Gilchrist resolved to go on a

lengthened visit to two of his brothers at Richmond, in Surrey. Having

stayed already more than a month in London, Clare now had to think of

returning, which he did after taking solemn farewell from all his old and

new friends. Faithful Tom Benyon, on a sunny morning in June, carried the

poet's well-stocked handkerchief, with the boots, to the 'George and Blue

Boar,' in Holborn, and the streets were just beginning to swarm with

life, when the Stamford coach went rolling through them into the green

fields. Clare was the only outside passenger, besides a stout elderly

gentleman who went as far as Islington. The stout person had seen Clare

somewhere before, and, being extremely pleased to meet a famous poet on

such a fine morning in June, ordered brandy and water at three successive

taverns where the coach stopped for passengers. The effect was such that

Clare went to sleep on his seat, and, having been carefully strapped to

the cushion by the experienced guard, slept all the way to Stamford--last

result of a visit to the great metropolis.

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