I SHOOK her hand, and in an hour afterward was passing, with my friend,
by the Trajan forum, toward the deep shadow of San Maggiore, which lay
in our way to the mountains. At sunset we were wandering over the ruin
of Adrian’s villa, which lies upon the first step of the Appenines.
Behind us, the vesper bells of Tivoli were sounding, and their echoes
floating sweetly under the broken arches; before us, stretching all the
way to the horizon, lay the broad Campagna; while in the middle of its
great waves, turned violet-colored by the hues of twilight, rose the
grouped towers of the Eternal City; and lording it among them all, like
a giant, stood the black dome of St. Peter’s.
Day after day we stretched on over the mountains, leaving the Campagna
far behind us. Rocks and stones, huge and ragged, lie strewn over the
surface right and left; deep yawning valleys lie in the shadows of
mountains, that loom up thousands of feet, bearing, perhaps, upon their
tops old castellated towns, perched like birds’ nests. But mountain and
valley are blasted and scarred; the forests even are not continuous, but
struggle for a livelihood; as if the brimstone fire that consumed
Nineveh, had withered their energies. Sometimes our eyes rest on a great
white scar of the broken calcareous rock, on which the moss cannot grow,
and the lizards dare not creep. Then we see a cliff beetling far aloft,
with the shining walls of some monastery of holy men glistening at its
base. The wayside brooks do not seem to be the gentle offspring of
bountiful hills, but the remnants of something greater, whose greatness
has expired—they are turbid rills, rolling in the bottom of yawning
chasms. Even the shrubs have a look, as if the Volscian war-horse had
trampled them down to death; and the primroses and the violets by the
mountain path alone look modestly beautiful amid the ruin.
Sometimes we loiter in a valley, above which the goats are browsing on
the cliffs, and listen to the sweet pastoral pipes of the Appenines. We
see the shepherds in their rough skin coats, high over our heads. Their
herds are feeding, as it seems, on ledges of a hand’s breadth. The sweet
sound floats and lingers in the soft atmosphere, without a breath of
wind to bear it away, or a noise to disturb its melody. The shadows
slant more and more as we linger; and the kids begin to group together.
And as we wander on, through the stunted vineyard in the bottom of the
valley, the sweet sound flows after us, like a river of song—nor leaves
us, till the kids have vanished in the distance, and the cliffs
themselves, become one dark wall of shadow.
At night, in some little meager mountain town, we stroll about in the
narrow passways, or wander under the heavy arches of the mountain
churches. Shuffling old women grope in and out; dim lamps glimmer
faintly at the side altars, shedding horrid light upon painted images of
the dying Christ. Or, perhaps, to make the old pile more solemn, there
stands some bier in the middle, with a figure or two kneeling at the
foot, and ragged boys move stealthily under the shadows of the columns.
Presently comes a young priest, in black robes, and lights a taper at
the foot, and another at the head—for there is a dead man on the bier;
and the parched, thin features look awfully under the yellow light of
the tapers, in the gloom of the great building. It is very, very damp in
the church, and the body of the dead man seems to make the air heavy, so
we go out into the starlight again.
In the morning, the western slopes wear broad shadows, and the frosts
crumple, on the herbage, to our tread: across the valley, it is like
summer; and the birds—for there are songsters in the Appenines—make
summer music. Their notes blend softly with the faint sounds of some
far-off convent bell, tolling for morning mass, and strike the frosted
and shaded mountain side, with a sweet echo. As we toil on, and the
shaded hills begin to glow in the sunshine, we pass a train of mules,
loaded with wine. We have seen them an hour before—little black dots
twining along the white streak of footway upon the mountain above us. We
lost them as we began to ascend, until a wild snatch of an Appenine song
turned our eyes up, and there, straggling through the brush, they
appeared again; a foot slip would have brought the mules and wine casks
rolling upon us. We keep still, holding by the brushwood, to let them
pass. An hour more, and we see them toiling slowly—mule and muleteer—big
dots and little dots—far down where we have been before. The sun is hot
and smoking on them in the bare valleys; the sun is hot and smoking on
the hill side, where we are toiling over the broken stones. I thought of
little Enrica, when she said: “the spring was coming!”
Time and again we sit down together—my friend and I—upon some fragment
of rock, under the broad-armed chestnuts, that fringe the lower skirts
of the mountains, and talk through the hottest of the noon, of the
warriors of Sylla, and of the Sabine woman—but oftener—of the pretty
peasantry, and of the sweet-faced Roman girl. He, too, tells me of his
life and loves, and of the hopes that lie misty and grand before him:
little did we think that in so few years, his hopes would be gone, and
his body lying low in the Adriatic, or tossed with the drift upon the
Dalmatian shores! Little did I think that here under the ancestral
wood—still a wishful and blundering mortal, I should be gathering up the
shreds that memory can catch of our Appenine wandering, and be weaving
them into my bachelor dreams.
Away again upon the quick wing of thought, I follow our steps, as after
weeks of wandering, we gained once more a height that overlooked the
Campagna—and saw the sun setting on its edge, throwing into relief the
dome of St. Peter’s, and blazing in a red stripe upon the waters of the
Tiber.
Below us was Palestrina—the Præneste of the poets and philosophers; the
dwelling place of—I know not how many—emperors. We went straggling
through the dirty streets, searching for some tidy-looking osteria. At
length we found an old lady who could give us a bed, but no dinner. My
friend dropped in a chair disheartened. A snub-looking priest came out
to condole with us.
And could Palestrina—the _frigidum Præneste_ of Horace, which had
entertained over and over, the noblest of the Colonna, and the most
noble Adrian—could Palestrina not furnish a dinner to a tired traveler?
“_Si, Signore_,” said the snub-looking priest.
“_Si, Signorino_,” said the neat old lady; and away we went upon a new
search. And we found bright and happy faces; especially the little girl
of twelve years, who came close by me as I ate, and afterward strung a
garland of marigolds, and put it on my head. Then there was a
bright-eyed boy of fourteen, who wrote his name, and those of the whole
family, upon a fly-leaf of my book; and a pretty, saucy-looking girl of
sixteen, who peeped a long time from behind the kitchen door, but before
the evening was gone, she was in the chair beside me, and had written
her name—Carlotta—upon the first leaf of my journal.
When I woke, the sun was up. From my bed I could see over the town, the
thin, lazy mists lying on the old camp-ground of Pyrrhus; beyond it were
the mountains, which hide Frascati, and Monte-Cavi. There was old
Colonna, too, that—
Like an eagle’s nest, hangs on the crest
Of purple Appenine.
As the mist lifted, and the sun brightened the plain, I could see the
road, along which Sylla came fuming and maddened after the Mithridaten
war. I could see, as I half dreamed and half slept, the frightened
peasantry whooping to their long-horned cattle, as they drove them on
tumultuously up through the gateways of the town; and women with babies
in their arms, and children scowling with fear and hate—all trooping
fast and madly, to escape the hand of the Avenger; alas! ineffectually,
for Sylla murdered them, and pulled down the walls of their town—the
proud Palestrina.
I had a queer fancy of seeing the nobles of Rome, led on by Stefano
Colonna, grouping along the plain, their corslets flashing out of the
mists—their pennants dashing above it—coming up fast, and still as the
wind, to make the Mural Præneste, their stronghold against the Last of
the Tribunes. And strangely mingling fiction with fact, I saw the
brother of Walter de Montreal, with his noisy and bristling army, crowd
over the Campagna, and put up his white tents, and hang out his showy
banners, on the grassy knolls that lay nearest my eye.
—But the knolls were all quiet; there was not so much as a strolling
_contadino_ on them, to whistle a mimic fife-note. A little boy from the
inn went with me upon the hill, to look out upon the town and the wide
sea of land below; and whether it was the soft, warm April sun, or the
gray ruins below me, or whether the wonderful silence of the scene, or
some wild gush of memory, I do not know, but something made me sad.
“_Perché cosi penseroso!_—why so sad” said the quick-eyed boy. “The air
is beautiful, the scene is beautiful; Signore is young, why is he sad?”
“And is Giovanni never sad?” said I.
“_Quasi mai_,” said the boy, “and if I could travel as Signore, and see
other countries, I would be always gay.”
“May you be always that!” said I.
The good wish touched him; he took me by the arms, and said—“Go home
with me, Signore; you were happy at the inn last night; go back, and we
will make you gay again!”
—If we could be always boys!
I thanked him in a way that saddened him. We passed out shortly after
from the city gates, and strode on over the rolling plain. Once or twice
we turned back to look at the rocky heights beneath which lay the ruined
town of Palestrina—a city that defied Rome—that had a king before a
plowshare had touched the Capitoline, or the Janiculan hill! The ivy was
covering up richly the Etruscan foundations, and there was a quiet over
the whole place. The smoke was rising straight into the sky from the
chimney tops; a peasant or two were going along the road with donkeys;
beside this, the city was, to all appearance, a dead city. And it seemed
to me that an old monk, whom I could see with my glass, near the little
chapel above the town, might be going to say mass for the soul of the
dead city.
And afterward, when we came near to Rome, and passed under the temple
tomb of Metella—my friend said—“And will you go back now to your home?
or will you set off with me to-morrow for Ancona?”
“At least, I must say adieu,” returned I.
“God speed you!” said he, and we parted upon the Piazza di Venezia—he
for his last mass at St. Peter’s, and I for the tall house upon the
Corso.
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