said in trying to fix a standard of comparison for the Grand Canyon. But
I fancy there is no standard adjustable to the human mind. You may
compare all you will—eloquently and from wide experience—and at last all
similes fail. The Grand Canyon is just the Grand Canyon, and that is all
you can say. I never have seen any one who was prepared for it. I never
have seen any one who could grasp it in a week’s hard exploration; nor
any one, except some rare Philistine, who could even think he had
grasped it. I have seen people rave over it; better people struck dumb
with it; even strong men who wept over it; but I have never yet seen the
man or woman who expected it.”[2]
Last, but by no means least, let me quote a few words from an article
published in the _Century Magazine_ by Mr. John Muir:
“It seems a gigantic statement for even Nature to make, all in one stone
word. Wildness so Godful, cosmic, primeval, bestows a new sense of
earth’s beauty and size.... But the colours, the living, rejoicing
colours, chanting, morning and evening, in chorus to heaven. Whose brush
or pencil, however lovingly inspired, can give us these? In the supreme
flaming glory of sunset the whole canyon is transfigured, as if all the
life and light of centuries of sunshine stored up in the rocks was now
being poured forth as from one glorious fountain, flooding both earth
and sky.”
It is a happy thing to be able to quote such men as the above, for I am
among the number of those who were struck dumb by the sight of this
place. I can find no words which would give any idea of the impression
made upon me by the canyon, I can only advise those planning a western
trip to see it, without fail, either going or returning; the time of the
year does not matter, the El Tovar is open to you the year round.
THE PAINTED DESERT
Among the interesting trips in this region is that to the Painted
Desert, of which one hears little, probably because it is a difficult
trip; still it is perfectly possible for any ordinarily hardy traveller.
Five to seven days should be allowed for the journey which is made on
horse- or mule-back. The descent to the floor of the canyon is a rough
ride and very fatiguing, but by no means dangerous. The trail leads down
canyon after canyon, dropping lower and lower, for it must be remembered
that the Painted Desert lies 200 feet below sea level, while the rim of
the canyon from which we start is 7,000 feet above sea level. One can
readily imagine the change in temperature in such a descent (mentioned
elsewhere); the mercury stands at times at 115°; however, those who care
to put up with the hardships are likely to feel themselves fully repaid.
An experienced guide is necessary, especially on account of the
quicksands which must be avoided in crossing the Little Colorado River.
The colours of the sand, the mountains, and the sky are indescribable;
they are so brilliant as to seem absolutely unreal, while beyond in the
distance is seen, in all its dazzling whiteness of snow-capped peaks,
the lovely San Francisco range, a fitting background for this mad riot
of colour.
PETRIFIED FOREST (NATIONAL MONUMENT)
“The Fossil Forest of Arizona, one of the most remarkable features of a
state noted for its scenic wonders, is situated a few miles south of
Adamana, a station on the Santa Fé Railroad in Apache County.... Only
within a few years have accommodations and transportation facilities
been such as to tempt more than a very small proportion of the tourists
and travellers to ‘stop off’ on their through tickets to the Grand
Canyon and Pacific Coast. Since the setting aside of the area as a
national monument, and the appointment of a superintendent, the way has
become easy, and the constantly increasing number of visitors has made
the preparation of some form of scientific account of the Forest almost
a necessity.”
This Mr. George Perkins Merrill follows with a careful geological
account of the forest, which can be had by those who wish to go
carefully into the matter.
Here, as in the Great Petrified Forest in the Arabian Desert, so called
to distinguish it from the one near Cairo, known as the Petrified
Forest, the trees are fallen and lie prone upon the ground, glittering
fragments of carnelian and jasper all about them. There are not even
standing stumps here, as in the Great Petrified Forest of the Arabian
Desert and the Yellowstone Forests where superb specimens still may be
seen.
There are within the reservation four forests, but the first is the one
most generally visited. This first is about six miles from Adamana; it
is easily reached in an hour and a half. The second forest is two and
one half miles south of the first, the trip taking about half an hour
each way. The third forest covers a greater area than the others, it is
13 miles southwest of Adamana and 18 miles southeast of Holbrook. The
third forest, known as the Rainbow Forest, is the principal one; it is
often called Chalcedony Park. The ground here seems strewn with jewels,
and one has the feeling of being in an enchanted spot; the colours are
most brilliant; chalcedony, opals, and agates are found here.
One of the most interesting features of this region is the Natural
Bridge, consisting of a great petrified trunk of jasper and agate lying
across a canyon 60 feet wide and 20 feet deep, and forming a foot-bridge
over which any one may easily pass.
CHAPTER TWO
HISTORIC PLACES IN NEW MEXICO AND ARIZONA
NEW MEXICO
“Here we begin to realize that this is an old country rather than a new.
Americans are prone to talk about the ‘Settlement Period,’ of Bradford
and Brewster, of Captain John Smith and Henry Hudson. But it is well to
remember that nearly a century before the _Half Moon_ sailed up the
Hudson or the _Mayflower_ dropped her anchor in Massachusetts Bay, the
mailed warriors of Cabeza de Vaca and Coronado had discovered the
terraced cities of Zuni, where men were clothed in cotton and wool of
their own weaving, lived in stone houses, and cultivated the soil.”
At Albuquerque we find ourselves in a half-American and half-Mexican
city. It is a junction point of the Santa Fé and the metropolis of New
Mexico. Many travellers stop here for a day or two, to break their
journey.
The Alvarado, a Harvey hotel, has a fine collection of Indian relics and
products and here one is likely to see the Navajo and Hopi weavers,
potters, silversmiths, and basketmakers at work.
“Santa Fé lies at the base of a mountain range nearly 2,000 feet higher
than Albuquerque, a few miles off the main line of travel, on a branch
line. Lamy is the main line junction point, where one changes cars to
reach Santa Fé. When first visited by the Spanish, about 1540 (a century
before Boston was settled), the town was a populous Indian pueblo. You
may read its varied history in the guide books and study its priceless
records in the old territorial ‘Palace.’ The Casa Viejo, or old house,
where Coronado is said to have lodged in 1540, and the church of San
Miguel, which was sacked in 1680, are not distinguishable from their
surroundings by any air of superior age. All is old, a bit of desiccated
Granada of the 16th century.”
HOPILAND, WOLPI AND ORAIBI
“There are many ways of getting into the Hopi country, but there are
three commonly used routes, each of which has certain advantages. At the
starting-point of each one of them conveyances may easily be secured for
the trip. The three points are the stations of Holbrook, Winslow, and
Canyon Diablo, all along the line of the Santa Fé. The Hopi country
stretches out north of these three stations; the distance is about the
same from each. Holbrook possesses one advantage over the other two
routes: the town is situated on the Hopi side of the Little Colorado
River; consequently, the question as to whether the river is fordable
need not be considered.
“The distance from Holbrook to Wolpi, the easternmost of the Hopi
villages, is about 80 miles. This trip, with camping outfit, usually
requires about three days.
“Winslow, a much larger town than Holbrook, is a division point on the
Santa Fé, and has several hotels and livery stables. Of the latter the
writer is able to recommend, from much personal experience, that kept by
Mr. Creswell. The route from Winslow to Oraibi, the westernmost village,
is not quite 80 miles.
“Canyon Diablo has neither hotel nor livery stable. Mr. Volz, the Indian
trader at this point, will, with advance notice, furnish the
necessities. Should there be ladies in the party, and should it be
possible to secure Mr. Volz’s personal services for the journey, this
route offers certain advantages not to be found by either of the other
two, and the cost is about the same.
“Whether our journey be made in winter or summer, spring or autumn, we
are sure to intrude upon (for they are not to be considered in any sense
as ‘shows’) one or more of the great ceremonials, usually an invocation
for rain, a propitiation of the gods of the winds for bountiful
harvests, or a general thanksgiving for protection, with the brilliant
public pageant at the close. But smile not at the curious sand altars,
with the ‘tiponi’ or palladium of the fraternity, the childlike ‘bahos’
and ‘nakwakwosi,’ or prayer-sticks and offerings, nor let the ears or
eyes be offended by the chanting of the songs to the gods of sun, of
winds and of rain, or the ceremonial dances of the priests, for they are
serious affairs to the native participants.”[3]
“It is in these strange, cliff-perched little cities that one of the
most astounding barbaric dances in the world is held. Africa has no
savages whose mystic performances are more wonderful than the Hopi snake
dance.
“The snake is an object of great respect among all uncivilized peoples,
and the deadlier his power, the deeper the reverence for him. The Hopi
often protect in their houses an esteemed and harmless serpent—about
five or six feet long—as a mouse trap; and these quiet mousers keep down
the little pests much more effectively than a cat, for they can follow
shee-id-deh to the ultimate comer of his hole.”
Up to a generation ago every pueblo protected at least one rattlesnake,
but now the Hopi Indian alone continues the custom. Once a year the
remarkable ceremony of the snake dance is still performed, and Mr.
Lummis, from whom the above is quoted, tells us that after the dance is
over he has seen a hillock of rattlesnakes a foot high and four feet
across.
“The dancers leap about this squirming pile while sacred corn meal is
sprinkled, then thrust each an arm into the mass, grasp a number of
snakes, and go running at top speed to the four points of the compass,
and thus the unharmed snakes are released.”
THE NAVAJO RESERVATION
To the north and east of the Hopi Reservation is the Navajo Reservation,
also accessible by the Santa Fé Railroad. These Indians, unlike their
neighbours, will not even touch a snake. Mr. Lummis tells a most
interesting story of his having had a Navajo Indian make for him a
silver bracelet in the form of a snake. So extreme are their prejudices
that this silversmith was almost beaten to death by his fellows, and the
bracelet, together with his hut, were destroyed.
The Navajo reveres the bear as the Hopi does the snake. They even go so
far as to make prayers and sacrifices to him. They are the most
wonderful of jugglers. Dr. Washington Matthews, who was the foremost
student of Navajo customs, said officially: “I have seen many fire
scenes on the stage, many acts of fire-eating and fire-handling by
civilized jugglers, but nothing comparable to this.”
The Navajo blanket is known all over this country; these Indians and the
Hopi are especially famous for their weaving. But it is not to-day what
it used to be; the blanket to-day is made to sell, not to wear.
The Navajo Reservation is now a national monument, and protects three
extensive prehistoric pueblos, or cliff dwellings, in a good state of
preservation.
RAINBOW BRIDGE (NATIONAL MONUMENT)
In the Navajo Indian Reservation may be seen the Rainbow Bridge National
Monument. The bridge is 309 feet above the water, and its span is 279
feet. Among the natural bridges of the world this one is said to be
unique, having not only a symmetrical arch below but presenting also a
curved surface above, thus having the appearance of a rainbow. An
unusual trip may be made from here to the Natural Bridge National
Monument, a distance of 160 miles.
PUEBLO OF COCHITI
“The most extensive and wonderful cave communities in the world are in
the great Cochiti upland, some 50 miles northwest of Santa Fé, New
Mexico. The journey is a very laborious one, but by no means dangerous;
and if you can get a good guide, you are apt to remember it as the most
interesting expedition of your life.
“In the superbly picturesque canyon of the Rito de los Frigoles is the
largest of all the villages of caves, deserted for more than 400 years.
Outside its unnumbered cave rooms were more rooms yet, of masonry of
‘bricks’ cut from the same cliff.
“A few miles farther up the Rio Grande, not down in a canyon, but on the
top of a great plateau, nearly 2,000 feet above the river, are two huge
castle-like buttes of chalky tufa, each some 200 feet high. They stand
one on each side of the Santa Clara Canyon, and are known to the
Indians, respectively, as the Puye and the Shu-fin-ne. They are the most
easily accessible of the large cave villages of North America, not being
more than 10 miles from the little railroad town of Espanola, on the Rio
Grande, some 30 miles by rail from Santa Fé.
“In this same wild region are the only great stone idols (or, to speak
more properly, fetiches) in the United States—the mountain lions of
Cochiti. They are life size and carved from the solid bedrock on the top
of two huge mesas. To this day the Indians of Cochiti, before a hunt, go
to one of these almost inaccessible spots, anoint the great stone head,
and dance by night, a wild dance, which no white man has seen or ever
will see.”[4]
THE PUEBLOS OF ACOMA AND LAGUNA
Acoma is 13 miles south of the Santa Fé Railway in the western part of
New Mexico. It is reached from Laguna, which is in itself another most
interesting place; it is the most recent of all the pueblos, having been
founded in 1699.
“Of all the 19 pueblos of New Mexico, Acoma is by far the most
wonderful. Indeed, it is probably the most remarkable city in the whole
world. Perched upon the level summit of a great ‘box’ of rock whose
perpendicular sides are nearly 400 feet high, and reached by some of the
dizziest paths ever trodden by human feet, the prehistoric town looks
far across the wilderness. Its quaint terraced houses of gray adobe, its
huge church—hardly less wonderful than the pyramids of Egypt as a
monument of patient toil—its great reservoir in the solid rock, its
superb scenery, its romantic history and the strange customs of its 600
people, all are rife with interest to the few Americans who visit the
isolated city. Neither history nor tradition tells us when Acoma was
founded. The pueblo was once situated on the top of the Mesa Encantada
(Enchanted Tableland), which rises 700 feet, near the mesa now occupied.
“The present Acoma was an old town when the first European—Coronado, the
famous Spanish explorer—saw it in 1540. With that its authentic history
begins—a strange, weird history, in scattered fragments....
“Acoma is a labyrinth of wonders of which no person alive knows all; the
longest visit never wears out its glamour. One feels as among scenes and
beings more than human, all of whose rocks are genii and whose people
swart conjurors. It is spendthrift of beauty.... It is the noblest
specimen of fantastic beauty on the continent.”
Laguna lies some 20 miles northeast of Acoma. Mr. Lummis, from whom the
above is quoted, tells a most interesting story of a law-suit carried on
between these two cities over the picture of a saint. The story is told
in “Some Strange Corners of Our Country.” Not only does the writer know
these strange corners, but he has a wonderful way of making his readers
see them.
THE APACHE
The Apache reservations are in Arizona and New Mexico. There is one,
about 100 miles from El Paso, on the border of Texas and New Mexico, but
perhaps the most accessible for tourists is the San Carlos Agency of the
White Mountain Reservation, reached by stage from Holbrook, a distance
of about 96 miles.
There are no Apache ruins, for this tribe lived in tepees made of twigs,
and not in pueblos or permanent houses.
Basketmaking is the principal industry among the women.
CAPULIN MOUNTAIN (NATIONAL MONUMENT)
“This mountain in northeastern New Mexico is a volcanic cinder cone of
recent origin, six miles southwest of Folsom. It is the finest specimen
of a group of craters. Capulin has an altitude of 8,000 feet and rises
1,500 feet above the surrounding plain. It is almost a perfect cone. It
is easily reached by either rail or automobile.”
BANDELIER NATIONAL MONUMENT
Eighteen miles west of Santa Fé, N. M., in a beautiful valley with high
surrounding walls some six miles long, and about one half mile wide,
with an entrance narrow enough to admit but two persons abreast, may be
seen the home of a people who lived in caves. This is a region full of
interest; there is here a large area which has been suggested for a
national park, to be called: “The Cliff Cities National Park”; it is
reached by automobile from Santa Fé.
ZUNI
Zuni is also reached by the Santa Fé R. R. from Gallup. This is said to
be the largest of all the pueblos. At Zuni, Mr. Frank Hamilton Cushing
passed many years of his life, as a member of the tribe. This famous
ethnologist probably learned more of the real Indian, because more
closely associated with him, than any other white man has done; he is
the authority on this particular tribe.
Conveyances can be had at Gallup for the trip to Zuni, which is
generally made in a day. The pueblo lies in a level plain on the
southern bank of the Zuni River; it may be seen at quite a distance,
owing to the irregularity in the height of the houses, some of which are
five stories, and the irregular lay of the ground upon which they are
built.
To the traveller who has been to Acoma, Zuni may be disappointing, or
rather the approach to Zuni, Acoma being built upon a great rock mesa;
but why compare such different spots? Each has its own charm. The
ladders which are seen upon all sides at Zuni add greatly to its
picturesque appearance; they have been well described as: “A wilderness
of masts.”
Pottery is the great industry of the Zuni, in which art they excel; not
only are the jars, bowls, etc., beautifully shaped, but the decorative
designs, mostly semi-geometric, and the combining of the reds, browns,
and black is wonderfully artistic.
A great many religious rites exist in Zuni, some such celebration taking
place every month, many in the open air, so that it is possible that the
tourist may chance upon one of these at almost any time. There is a
famous Zuni dance held in November each year, which may be witnessed by
all. There are many shrines in this vicinity where visitors are allowed,
the most important of which is the one on Thunder Mountain, quite a
climb, but worthy the effort; here the Zuni still make their offerings
of prayer-sticks, etc., to the gods to whom this shrine is dedicated.
From Zuni the trip into the Painted Desert may be made.
EL MORRO (NATIONAL MONUMENT)
In western central New Mexico there is an enormous sandstone rock,
rising some 200 feet out of a plain, which, having a small spring of
water at its base, seems to have made it a valuable camping place for
the Spanish explorers.
This rock contains some 21 Spanish inscriptions, the earliest of which
is dated February 18, 1526; the most interesting is probably that of
Juan de Onate, the founder of the city of Santa Fé in 1606.
THE GRAN QUIVIRA (NATIONAL MONUMENT)
“Eighty miles southwest of Albuquerque, in the hollow of towering desert
ranges, lies the arid country which Indian tradition calls the Accursed
Lakes. Here at the points of a large triangle sprawl the ruins of three
once flourishing pueblo cities, Abo, Cuaray, and Tabirá. When the
Spaniards came these cities were at the flood-tide of prosperity.”[5] At
Tabirá was built one of the important early Spanish missions. The towns
were discovered in 1581. The reservation preserves this interesting
mission ruin in Central New Mexico.
PHOENIX AND THE ROOSEVELT DAM
Phoenix, the capital of Arizona, is the starting point for several
places of interest, the chief, perhaps, being the Roosevelt Dam.
This very picturesque and splendid dam is built in a narrow canyon about
80 miles from Phoenix; it holds in a fine natural basin a great wealth
of water. The lake fills a valley 28 miles long, and in the hillsides
surrounding the water there are remains of cliff and cave dwellings;
here ancient and modern masonry meet. These dwellings are known as the
“Tonto National Monument.”
THE APACHE TRAIL
For the traveller the most interesting feature in this region is the
Apache Trail. An auto-stage leaves Phoenix daily for what is known as
the Globe-Miami district, 120 miles away. The trail leads through the
Salt River Valley, the Apache Gap (said to be the scene of a battle
between the 7th Cavalry and the Apaches in 1886), to No Man’s Land, and
Summit, altitude 3,470 feet. On the descent are unusual panoramic views
of castellated cliffs and deep mountain gorges, with the usual magic
desert colouring.
The trail leads past the Roosevelt Dam and lake with fine views all the
way to Globe, the home of the Old Dominion Copper Co., and Miami, of the
Inspiration Copper Co., both mining towns.
TUCSON
Tucson is a close rival of Phoenix. This old town still has some of the
charm of ancient Mexico. A few miles from Tucson there is one of the
finest and best preserved old missions of the Southwest, San Xavier. The
outside has been considerably restored and, unfortunately, whitewashed,
all but the central portion, which happily is in the original brownish
colour. The interior decorations, very ornate, are the originals. The
crudely carved wooden lions at the sides of the altar rails date
undoubtedly from the founding, supposed to have been 1692.
THE PAPAGO SAGUARO (NATIONAL MONUMENT)
About nine miles east of Phoenix and 12 miles from the Apache Trail, a
small area has been made a national monument on account of its splendid
examples of characteristic desert flora. Here are to be seen striking
specimens of the giant cactus, Saguaro, which attains a height of 30 to
35 feet and is of a beautiful cylindrical form. Not only this, but many
other interesting species of cacti and yucca grow here.
WALNUT CANYON (NATIONAL MONUMENT)
Thirty cliff dwellings cling to the sides of the picturesque Walnut
Canyon, eight miles from Flagstaff, Arizona. They are excellently
preserved. The largest contains eight rooms. This canyon possesses
unusual beauty because of the thickets of locust which fringe the trail
down from the ruins. Some of the ruins are only accessible by ladder.
Because of its nearness to Flagstaff this group of dwellings is easily
visited.
MONTEZUMA CASTLE (NATIONAL MONUMENT)
“Montezuma Castle, a remarkable relic of a prehistoric race, is the
principal feature of a well-preserved group of cliff dwellings in the
northeastern part of Yavapai County, Arizona. Its position and size give
it the appearance of an ancient castle. The structure is about 50 feet
high by 60 feet wide, built in the form of a crescent. It is five
stories high, with walls of masonry and adobe, plastered inside with
mud.”
THE CASA GRANDE (NATIONAL MONUMENT)
This is one of the most remarkable prehistoric ruins in the country. It
is about 70 miles from Tucson, perhaps nearer the border town of Sonora.
“A building of large size, evidently this was an important centre of
population. The builders were probably Pima Indians. Whatever its
origin, the community was already in ruins when the Spaniards found it.”
The first report we have of it is in 1539. The whole is now roofed over
for protection.
AN APPEAL TO TOURISTS