A TRIP TO THE CANNIBAL ISLANDS AND CAPTAIN BROWN’S STORY
WE stayed together in Cooktown for a couple of weeks, and then Captain
Brown was offered the command of a small vessel trading between
Cooktown, Townsville, and the Solomon Islands, sometimes calling at
Port Moresby, New Guinea. He at once offered me the berth of mate in
her, and I gladly accepted, as it was quite a new part of the world to
me, and just what I wanted. The “Pelew” was a smart little schooner
of a hundred and fifty tons, could sail like a water witch, and was a
right staunch little craft. We shipped three deck hands, one a young
Danish seaman, who had cleared out from an English ship at Brisbane,
and two Kanakas. The Dane was a smart, active young fellow, his only
drawback being that he could not speak a word of English, but it was
evident he would soon learn. The Kanakas were two splendid types of the
Solomon Islanders, they were sharp, intelligent men and could speak
“pigeon” English. In their younger days they had been slaves on a
Queensland sugar plantation, but for the last two years they had been
on one of the missionary schooners cruising among the Pacific Islands.
They took life very merrily, and were always laughing, no matter what
had to be done--they got some fun out of it. Work was no trouble to
them, and when there was no work going on they would wrestle with each
other, tumbling each other about until the perspiration rolled off
them, but they never lost their tempers over it, but would finish up
with a hearty laugh. Sometimes they would get the young Danish sailor
to wrestle with them, but they could do just what they liked with
him, he was muscular and strong, but they were slippery as eels, and
twisted and twirled as though there was not a bone in their bodies, and
always slipped out of his fingers before he could get a grip on them.
It was great fun to Captain Brown and me to see the Kanakas, Tombaa
and Panape, trying to teach Neilson, the Dane, to speak English, and
Neilson trying to teach them Danish. That seemed the only thing they
could not get any fun out of. At last Panape gave it up, and would not
have it at any price.
“That no tam good,” said he, shaking his head. “Good fellow white
man--speak Englis’--no that allee samee you. You no takee allee same
good fellow captain--good fellow, mate?”
“No,” said Neilson in English.
“You no tam good, then,” said the Kanaka. “All good fellow speak
Englis’. Me good fellow--me speak Englis’. Tombaa, he good fellow man,
too--he speak allee samee missiony man, he teach us to say prayer to
‘Big Fellow Master’ (God), prayer belong sleep, prayer belong get up.
Tombaa you speak white fellow commandments.”
I drew nearer to them, anxious to hear a Kanaka’s version of the ten
commandments. Tombaa stood up, and throwing his chest out like a proud
turkey cock, he delivered the following version:--
THE TEN COMMANDMENTS IN KANAKA.
I. Man take one fellow God, no more.
II. Man like him God first time, everything else behind.
III. Man no swear.
IV. Man keep Sunday good fellow day, belong big fellow Master.
V. Man be good fellow longa father, mother belonga him.
VI. Man no kill.
VII. Man no take him mary belonga ’nother fellow man.
VIII. Man no steal.
IX. Man no tell him lie ’bout ’nother fellow man.
X. ’Supose man see good fellow something belonga ’nother fellow
man, he no want him all the time.
I was much amused at their interpretation, what it lacked in length was
made up by the clear definition of the meaning of the ten commandments,
and these two lived up to it.
We left Cooktown with a general assortment of cargo for Townsville, and
a few deck passengers. The wind being fair and the weather fine, we
made the passage in fifty-four hours, anchoring inside Magnetic Island.
Our cargo and passengers were soon landed, and the schooner loaded
for Port Moresby, New Guinea. The cargo consisted of cloth, prints,
calicoes, ribbons of all sorts and colours, tobacco (horrid stuff),
spirits, axes and various joinery tools, etc., and some agricultural
implements. We also had four passengers--German officials--going to the
German settlement, north-east New Guinea.
We left the port at sunrise. The weather was fine, one of those lovely
tropical days when the sky blends its prismatic hues and the easterly
breeze, as it whistles through the shrouds, brings new life and energy
into one’s veins. The sea all around was covered with silver-crested
waves and as the little “Pelew” cut her way through the sparkling
waters she sent them like showers of jewels along her painted sides.
What a joy it was to me to be once more on the ocean, to feel once
more the motion of the vessel beneath my feet, and to quaff the salt
breeze that was like the wine of life. We had a delightful passage,
but owing to the numerous reefs and shoals we were kept constantly on
the lookout. These seas require the most careful navigation, and I was
surprised to find that Captain Brown seemed quite at his ease among the
reefs, although, when I mentioned this and asked him about his life in
these regions, I could never get any very definite answers from him.
However by putting two and two together, from his chance remarks, I
came to the conclusion that he had been what is known as a “blackbird
catcher,” an “island scourger,” a “dealer in living ebony,” or a
“sandlewood thief.”
We made the passage to Port Moresby in five days. As soon as we
anchored in the bay three native crafts came off for our cargo, the
agent who was in the first boat seemed half a savage himself, and
had a most repulsive face. Captain Brown gave orders that no one
was to leave the ship on any pretext whatever, except the German
passengers, and they did not seem to like the job either, but that
was what they had come out for. No natives were allowed to come on
board. Their appearance was not very inviting, they were quite naked,
with the exception of a strip of pounded bark or cocoanut fibre round
their waist, their woolly heads were decked with shells and tufts of
grass, while round their necks each had a necklace of shark’s teeth.
Though fine, well-built, powerful looking fellows, their features
were not what we should call handsome, as their foreheads are low and
retreating, the face broad, the cheek-bones prominent, the nose flat
and the lips thick. We heard that there was an English missionary
living amongst them and doing a good work.
After delivering what goods we had for the store-keeper, we received
orders to proceed to Gaurdalcana in the Solomon Islands, and deliver
the balance to the store-keeper there.
Captain Brown then told me that the natives of the Solomon Islands were
cannibals, “so you had better be careful while we are amongst these
islands, and,” he continued, with a sly twinkle in his eyes “you have
to be very cautious in dealing with them, for they are very partial to
roast sailor. I had a terrible experience on one of the islands some
years ago. I was in a smart little brig, cruising among the Islands. We
were out on a blackbird (native) catching expedition. We sailed into
the bay at the south-east point of San-Christobal. The brig ‘Carl’ of
blackbird notoriety, had been there a few times, and after getting
a number of the natives on board to trade as they thought, they had
been invited into the saloon, and their eyes were dazzled by the beads
and toys and other things spread on the table. Unsuspecting of any
treachery they stayed until the gentle rolling of the vessel caused
them to ask with some surprise what it meant, by this time the ship
was well under way, and fast leaving San-Christobal behind them. They
tried to rush on deck, but found themselves covered with the rifles of
some of the ship’s crew, they were soon overpowered and made prisoners
and put into the hold with others who had been lured to the vessel by
the same device--all to be sold as slaves to the North Queensland
planters--but we were not aware of this at the time.
“Well, as we drew up towards the head of the bay we suddenly grounded
on a reef, and while we were rushing about backing and filling the
sails, the natives swam off in hundreds and boarded the vessel on all
sides. We let go the ropes and seized whatever we could lay our hands
on to defend ourselves, but in a minute three of our men were beaten to
death with clubs. The captain was aft by the wheel, and as soon as I
saw the natives climbing over the rail I drew my knife and sprang aft
near him, and together we fought like demons. But the copper-coloured
fiends thronged round us, and one big fellow at last got a blow in with
a club that laid the captain senseless on the deck. But his triumph
was short, and mine too, for I ripped him open with my knife, and the
next minute was knocked senseless on the deck myself. When I came to, I
was on the floor of a hut on shore, trussed like a fowl, with my arms
and legs bent behind me and lashed together. I struggled and twisted
to get my hands free, but it was no use, I could not do it. I raved
and shouted for some one to come and put me out of my misery. At last,
as if in answer to my cry, one of the women came and looked in, and
seeing me struggling, she picked up a club, and smashed me on the head
with it, and again I became senseless. The next thing I remembered was
being rolled over and over and my flesh being pinched by two or three
natives. After jabbering among themselves for a few minutes they left
me, and directly afterwards I heard the captain’s voice shouting not
far off, and a lot of jabber among the natives. I could not see what
was going on, but I knew that they were taking the poor fellow to kill
and roast him. I tore at my bonds, until the lashings cut into the
flesh. Suddenly a horrible yell burst on my ears, and I knew it was the
captain’s death cry. I shook like a leaf, and the perspiration rolled
off me like raindrops. I was on the rack with torture, knowing full
well what was before me, and that at any minute my turn might come. I
swooned away with horror at the thought, to be brought to later by a
burning stick being thrust into my face. I saw four of the devils were
in the hut, and a whole crowd outside. They put a small spar through
my arms, and two of them lifted me up between them, like a Chinaman
carrying a load. As they carried me along towards a large fire in
the middle of a clearing, near a large hut, like a meeting house,
my stomach and face were scraping the ground, and, oh! God, what a
terrible sight met my eyes. There just in front of me was the roasting
body of the poor skipper. He had been a bad devil in his time and many
an islander had suffered at his hands, but they had got their revenge
on him for it.
“The head man or chief now spoke to a big powerful savage, and the
latter approaching me with a large knife, was about to plunge it into
me to rip me open, when the head man, who was jumping about before me,
suddenly fell forward on his face and lay still. The others looked on
and shouted. Then some of the elder ones, seeing there was something
wrong, walked up to the prostrate chief, and touched him. Finding he
did not move, they turned him over, but he was dead. I thought they
would fall on me at once when they realized this, but they only set
up a great wail and beat their breasts with their hands. Then two of
the old men spoke up, and all was quiet. After they had done speaking
several of the men came to me, and I thought my last moment had come,
but, to my surprise, they gently untied my hands and feet. For a few
minutes I was unable to stand, but as soon as I could, one of the old
men picked up the spear and club of the dead chief, placed them in my
hands, and pointed to the hills. I was not long in taking advantage of
my freedom, and made tracks at once. I could hardly believe that I was
free, and expected every minute to hear them coming after me.
“Why I had been spared was a mystery to me then, but I afterwards
learned that they released me through some superstitious fear, and a
belief that the spirit of their dead chief had entered into me, had I
been so minded they would have made me chief of the tribe; this they
tried to make me understand when the old man placed in my hands the
spear and club belonging to the dead chief. It would have made no
difference to me had I known, all I wanted was to put as many miles as
possible between the cursed place and myself.
“I remained in hiding for a couple of days up among the hills, and,
strange to say, I never saw a single native come near to the place
where I was. Another thing I noticed in my wanderings was the absence
of children. I don’t remember seeing a single youngster. As a rule
there are plenty of them knocking about on most of these islands,
so I came to the conclusion that this was an island where it is the
custom for nearly all the children of both sexes to be killed by their
parents, perhaps eaten, too. I lived on bananas, cocoanuts, and other
fruit that grew in abundance, but my mind was still racked with fear
lest the natives should come after me, and, after all, put me to death
in the same horrible manner as my shipmates.
“On the third day, after having been given my freedom I found my way
down to the coast. As soon as I got down to the rocks my heart leaped
for joy, for there, just rounding the point, was a vessel coming close
along the coast. I looked cautiously around and along the shore in
both directions, but not a sign could I see of a single native. The
schooner by this time was close in to the shore, and those in charge
seemed to be scanning the coast closely. I shook with excitement, for
fear the vessel should haul out more to the east before I could make
my presence known, but on she came like a seabird floating on the
water, with her sails spread to the gentle southerly breeze. Then a
new horror presented itself to my gaze, for right opposite to where I
stood in the shelter of the rocks, two large sharks were gliding about
among the gentle undulations of the sea, their dorsal fins standing up
like knives, and cutting a ripple on the surface of the water as they
moved along. When the schooner was about two miles off, I rushed out
and dashed into the sea, swimming with all my might out to seaward to
intercept her. I had only got about fifty feet from the shore when I
heard several shots fired from the ship, followed by shouts from the
beach. I swam out with all my strength, and my heart was gladdened and
my hopes raised as I saw the schooner’s head pay off towards me, and
after swimming about ten minutes I was picked up and drawn on board,
and the schooner was hauled out to the seaward.
“As soon as I had got my breath, I told the captain of the horrors that
had befallen our crew; his face set grimly as I related the captain’s
death and my own narrow escape, and he asked if there were any of my
shipmates still alive. I said I thought not, as the captain and myself
seemed to be the only two brought on shore by those who had attacked
us. ‘Well,’ he said, ‘we will put the ship on her course again, but
I always have a look out for castaways near these shores. I know of
several crews who have come to grief on that island. We are recruiting
among the islands, and if you like I will put you on the articles and
you can make this trip, or if we come across anything bound for Sydney
way I will transfer you.’
“I decided to make the trip in the vessel. So we cruised about among
the New Hebrides and Solomon Islands, and picked up, recruited,
borrowed and stole fifty-two natives, who were kept in the hold and
never allowed on deck only for a few hours each day during the time we
lay off Townsville awaiting inspection by the sugar planters. Then we
kept a strict watch over them you may be sure lest any of them should
attempt to escape by jumping overboard and swimming ashore. We fed them
up, too, and when several planters came on board, they soon engaged
the Kanakas, as they were all big, fine, strapping fellows. We got ten
pounds for them, this sum being paid as advance money for their passage.
“I would never have anything to do with blackbird catching again,” he
continued. “It is a foul, horrible, hellish trade, and the work done on
some of those crafts that trade with the Fiji Islands and New Guinea,
in the labour trade, is, to say the best about it, hellish.”
“No,” I remarked, as Captain Brown finished his story, “I should think
not. I wonder if you ever ventured near again?”
“Not until now,” he replied, “I left the vessel at Brisbane and got a
berth in a Sydney collier as mate, I made several trips in her along
the coast, and when the diggings opened in Victoria the skipper left
to try his luck, so I was given command. We made several very good
trips to New Zealand and back, and I put by a bit of money. Then the
Palmer diggings opened, and here we are now bound for the Solomon
Islands again, but not blackbird catching, not if I know it. I hope we
shall not have any trouble with the natives, however. Look here, Mr.
Farrar, I think we had better see what firearms we can muster, and have
them ready for use.”
I thought so, too, and on examining our stock found that we had two
rifles, six muskets, four revolvers, one brass cannon on deck, and
plenty of ammunition.
The weather was lovely as we sailed through the passage between the
Bonvouloir Isles and the Island of Aignan. The natives of these islands
are cannibals, and both fierce and cruel; this spot is dreaded by
sailors, as many vessels have been wrecked, and both the living and the
dead eaten, so we kept both a good distance off the shore, in case we
got becalmed, and a good look-out for visitors. When we were passing
Aignan Island, Tombaa came aft, and told me not to go too close in
shore.
“By and bye, wind no more, plenty bad black fellow come off in
canoe, and make fight white fellow too muchee, no belong longa
time, ship go all the same here, black fellow come plenty--much
corrobboree--by-en-by white fellow no more. Black fellow eat em white
fellow allee samee banana.”
“All right, Tombaa, we’ll keep a bit further out. But I don’t think the
wind will die away before sunset.”
“Me watchee allee same you,” said Tombaa, as he walked forward.
We had a spanking breeze, and the little “Pelew” was racing along in
fine style. The sky was clear as a bell and the sea nearly smooth with
just a gentle ripple on the surface. We were sheltered by the island,
as we sailed along under the lee.
At four p.m., Captain Brown came on deck, while Tombaa was at the
wheel. Just after the watch was relieved, the wind suddenly fell dead
calm, precisely as the Kanaka had foretold. The “Pelew” was then about
two miles off the reef that skirts the island. The captain took his
glass and examined the coast, and there, away on the starboard bow,
could be seen several large canoes outside the reef. Orders were at
once given to put a boat out, and tow the schooner further off from the
land. I took the Dane and the two Kanakas into the boat, and pulled to
the north-east for three hours. About half-past seven, as we opened out
the east point, a strong breeze sprang up, so we took the boat in, and
were soon clear of the island.
A few hours later the sky became overcast, and then a dense black, the
wind moaned and shrieked, and over the darkness came a close network
of lightning darting in all directions, like a spider’s web. Soon the
sea rose higher and higher, pitching and tossing our little vessel
about like a shuttlecock. We were snugged down to a close-reefed fore
staysail, and the corposants that hung about the mast heads, had a
weird, uncanny appearance. The little craft behaved splendidly, she
shipped a lot of spray but no heavy water. All hands were kept standing
by during the night, but towards daylight the storm blew itself out,
and the sky grew clear and calm again.
On the fourth day out we sighted Cape Hunter, and before dark we
were anchored in the bay. The following morning the agent and the
store-keeper came off with several large canoes, and the cargo was
transferred to them. No one was allowed on shore and we took in about
fifty tons of sweet potatoes, taro, bananas, sago and copra. I was
very much surprised to see the splendid canoes built by the Solomon
Islanders. They were without doubt well built and finely carved about
the head and stern. I saw several leave the bay while we lay there,
carrying fifty men, a large parcel of merchandise, and a lot of stores.
They carry a large square sail, but in calm weather, as many as forty
men can be seen paddling. These men are strong and well built and quite
fearless, and I was told that two of these canoes were going to the New
Hebrides Isles, quite five hundred miles away, and that they have a
method of navigation by the stars that is only known to themselves. I
was astonished, but I certainly should not have cared to risk my life
in one so many miles from land.
The next orders were to proceed to Bourgainville and finish loading
there. We were three days beating along the coast of New Georgia,
passing west of Choiseul Island, around the south-east point of
Bourganville, and on our way to our port. We were no sooner at anchor
than the trader came off in a canoe and told us we were not to land,
nor allow any natives to come on board, as there had been some trouble
with a trading vessel that had fired on some of the natives and
killed several, and that they were in a great state of excitement and
resentment because of this. We loaded some tons of cocoanuts, and some
pearl shell, also a quantity of pretty grass matting. The trader came
off with each lot, and I certainly think that I would sooner risk my
life with the cannibals than with that individual. He was, without a
doubt, the most villainous looking man I ever cast my eyes on, and they
have not been a few.
We sailed for Brisbane on the second day, and reached it after a
splendid run of eight days.
The owners were very pleased with the results of the trip, but were
surprised that Captain Brown had not brought a few Kanakas for the
sugar plantations telling him they were a good speculation.
“No, thanks,” he replied, “I have had enough ‘blackbird catching’ to
last me my lifetime, those can do it as likes, but not me.”