CHAPTER I

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SEVENTEEN YEARS AMONG THE SEA DYAKS OF BORNEO

* * * * * *

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Seventeen Years Among the Sea Dyaks of Borneo.

A Record of Intimate Association with the Natives of the

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[Illustration: A DYAK GIRL DRESSED IN ALL HER FINERY TO ATTEND A FEAST

She has in her hair a comb decorated with silver filigree work. Round her

neck is a necklace of beads. The rings round her body are made of hoops

of cane, round which little brass rings are arranged close together so

that none of the cane is visible. These hoops are worn next to the body

above the waist, and over the petticoat below. The silver coins fastened

to this brass corset, and worn as belts round it, are the silver coins of

the country. The petticoat is a broad strip of cloth, sewn together at

the ends and having an opening at the top and bottom. It is fastened at

the waist with a piece of string.]

SEVENTEEN YEARS AMONG THE SEA DYAKS OF BORNEO

A Record of Intimate Association with

the Natives of the Bornean Jungles

by

EDWIN H. GOMES, M.A.

And an Introduction by the Reverend John Perham

Formerly Archdeacon of Singapore

With 40 Illustrations & a Map

London

Seeley & Co. Limited

38 Great Russell Street

1911

TO MY WIFE TO WHOSE HELPFUL ENCOURAGEMENT I OWE MUCH

INTRODUCTION

With the establishment of Rajah Brooke’s government in Sarawak, the

different races of its native population gradually became known to

English people, and at length the Dyakland of Borneo has found a definite

place and shape in the English mind, much as the Zululand of Africa

has done. The Sea Dyak soon appeared in print; travellers mentioned

him, sometimes only as a simple savage; men who have spent some time

in the country, like the late Sir Hugh Low and the late Sir Spenser

St. John, described something of his life; missionary reports had him

in their pages; European residents and civil administrators and others

wrote of him in various papers and periodicals. But most, if not all,

of these accounts were unavoidably brief, partial, and sketchy, for it

did not come within the scope of their purpose to set forth a full and

systematic statement of all things Dyak. Mr. Ling Roth collected all the

notes about Dyaks he could find, from various sources, and published

his harvest of accumulations in two large volumes. It is a monument of

industrious collecting; but his work is that of the scissors rather than

of the pen, a compilation rather than a writing; and in the extracts,

being the productions of various writers at different periods, we see

much overlapping and repetition, and some confusion; and, necessarily,

such a book was too bulky to obtain a general circulation. More recently

Miss Eda Green has given to English readers a little book about Borneo,

wonderful in its general accuracy, and vivid in its descriptions; but

it is meant especially for missionary circles and missionary reading—in

fact, it was written expressly for the Borneo Mission Association, whose

objects it has done much to promote. But it is a book about the Mission

rather than about the Dyaks, and it does not profess to give a complete

account of the entire field of Sea Dyak life.

This is Mr. Gomes’s object, and he attains it. His book is not a mere

personal narrative of life in Sarawak. We have in it a very full,

systematic, and comprehensive description of Sea Dyak life—its works,

thoughts, sentiments, superstitions, customs, religion, beliefs, and

ideals. Our attention is not directed to the magnificent beauties of

Bornean tropical scenery and luxuriant flora, nor to the wonders of the

insect life with which the land simply abounds. Mr. Gomes sees Dyaks,

and Dyaks only, in his mind. The “brown humanity” of the country, not

its natural history, occupies his attention. He knows that humanity

intimately, and writes from the storehouse which he has accumulated

in long years of experience and observation. And he puts all within

manageable compass and volume. His book is, I believe, the first which

contains a complete picture of Sea Dyak life in all its phases, yet in

moderate dimensions. And from my own experience of some twenty years in

Sarawak, I can testify to the truthfulness of every page.

Possibly it is sometimes thought that the missionary is not the best

man to write about the people to whom he appeals; that he may be easily

biassed in one direction or another, and may think too ill or too well

of them, and may allow his judgment to be overcoloured by his religious

purpose. A _little_ experience among the people of any race, especially

where the language is not well known, may easily result in limited

views and imperfect conceptions. But when his residence has extended

over many years, and he knows the language as well as his own; when he

has had constant opportunities of observing their tone and conduct in

every relation of life, and of hearing how they talk and think on every

imaginable subject, and of seeing how they behave at home as well as

abroad—how they bear themselves, not only to an occasional white man whom

they meet, but also to each other in social dealings—when he thus lives

in close touch with them at every point, he cannot but obtain a thorough

understanding of the realities of their lives.

And the Sea Dyaks are generally a very communicative people. They will

willingly give information about every belief and custom, and will

quietly discuss every practice and every event, good or bad; and it needs

only a little patience and sympathy to enable one to get an insight into

the working of their minds, and to realize the true character of their

actions in the struggles, the comedies, or the tragedies of their lives.

Mr. Gomes is thus able to make the Sea Dyak live before us in genuine

colours. We can see this dusky son of the jungle in his beliefs and

fears, which are many, in his work and in his play, in his ugly faults

and amiable virtues, in his weaknesses and in his abilities. And I think

that everyone who reads his pages will feel that henceforth he knows the

Sea Dyak of Sarawak better than he ever knew him before, and will come to

the conclusion that, in spite of his faults, he is a very likeable man.

The Sea Dyaks, then, are worth knowing. They constitute a very valuable

element in the population of Sarawak, not only from their numbers, but

also from their force of character. They are active, hardworking,

industrious, ready to earn an honest penny when they have the chance; and

in their domestic relations are amiable and hospitable towards strangers,

and when treated with civility and sympathy, all their good points come

to the surface. They work hard at rice-planting, which, it is true, is

of a very primitive sort, but it is the best they know, and as good

as that practised by their Mohammedan neighbours, the Malays. If some

simple system of irrigation could be introduced among them, especially

in lowland cultivation, this, their main industry, would be far more

productive than it is, and it would be a real boon to the country at

large. They have adventured upon the cultivation of other products when

the way has been made clear to them, which is an evidence of their

capacity for progress. They penetrate and traverse far-off jungles in

search of indiarubber and gutta-percha to add to their earnings. An

increasing number of them are keen upon book-learning, as Mr. Gomes

points out. They form the Rajah’s soldiers and guards, and are capable

of useful service in subordinate positions as officers. And thus these

people, who were once only known as fighters, pirates, and head-takers,

are now a real influence in the evolution of a better civilization and a

more fruitful era to come in those lands. The civilizing, Christianizing

force no doubt works slowly; but there it is, and, comparing present with

past, we can see it. A large influx of white people of the usual colonist

class would doubtless be too strong for them, and would push them out of

the way; but with a favourable chance, which they now have, of working

out a salvation for themselves, I think the Sea Dyaks have a better

future before them than Mr. Gomes appears to anticipate.

It is interesting to watch the process of a gradual enlightening going

on among such a race when brought into contact with higher civilization

and better religion. Mr. Gomes mentions some instances of its expression.

Perhaps I may add an illustrative instance which occurred in my own

experiences, many years ago. One night I was at anchor with a Dyak crew

on the Saribas River, waiting for the turn of the tide. About 3 a.m. I

was awakened by a frightened cry from one of the crew: “Antu! antu!”

(A spirit, a spirit!). Thinking myself lucky at last in a chance of

actually seeing one of those invisible beings whom Dyaks dread so much,

I pushed my head from under the mosquito-curtain, and looked out, and

beheld a comet brightly shining not far above the horizon. Presently I

heard a school-lad say: “That’s not a spirit; it’s only a star with a

tail. I have learnt about it.” There was the old superstition and the

new knowledge struggling together, a symbol of what is going on in other

departments of Dyak thought and belief—the working of that which, it is

to be hoped, will issue in a higher and an improved life for the race.

Our Author’s book will evoke a lively interest in such an improvement

in Dyakland, and will inspire a deeper sympathy with every progressive

effort towards it.

In going over Mr. Gomes’s pages my thoughts have often gone back to days,

now long past, when he and I were workers together among the people of

whom he writes so sympathetically, and many a long-forgotten incident has

come back to mind; and it is a pleasure to write a simple word of welcome

to this product of his pen, and to express a conviction that his book is

just what was wanted to give the public a clear and adequate conception

of one of the leading races which have been ruled over by the “Two White

Rajahs” of Sarawak.

JOHN PERHAM.

CHARD, _December, 1910_.

AUTHOR’S NOTE

I wish to express my thanks to Sir Clement Kinloch-Cooke, M.P., for

the preface which he has kindly contributed to this volume, and for

allowing me to reproduce my translations of Sea Dyak legends which

appeared in the _Empire Review_; to Bishop Hose, under whom I worked for

seventeen years among the Sea Dyaks of Sarawak, for allowing me to use

his excellent article on “The Contents of a Dyak Medicine-chest”; to the

Rev. John Perham, formerly Archdeacon of Singapore, with whom I worked

in Sarawak for some years, for his introduction, and also for allowing

me to make use of the scholarly papers which he wrote for the _Journal

of the Straits Branch of the Asiatic Society_, on Sea Dyak Religion and

Folklore; and to the Rev. David Steele-Morris for going through the

manuscript and making many useful suggestions.

I am indebted to His Highness the Rajah of Sarawak for permission to

insert his portrait; to Dr. Charles Hose for his great kindness in

allowing me to use his excellent photographs, and also to the Society

for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts for lending me one

of their blocks; to Messrs. Bassano, of Bond Street, and Messrs. G. R.

Lambert and Co., of Singapore, whose photographs I am kindly permitted

to reproduce; to Mr. Hewitt, formerly curator of the Sarawak Museum; and

Mr. Ha Buey Hon, of Kuching, who have also been so good as to lend me

photographs.

To all these, as well as to many unmentioned friends who have helped me

to write this book, I offer my sincere thanks.

EDWIN H. GOMES.

UPPER NORWOOD, _December, 1910_.

CONTENTS

PAGES

CHAPTER I

SARAWAK—SIR JAMES BROOKE

Bornean jungles—A picture from the past—Unsettled life—Sudden

attacks—Head-hunting—Pirates—Malay pirates—Dyak pirates—Sir

James Brooke—the _Royalist_—Rajah Muda Hassim—Rajah of

Sarawak—Suppression of piracy and head-hunting—Captain

Keppel—Visit to England, 1847—Introduction of Christian

mission—Sir Charles Brooke 21-32

Seventeen Years Among the Sea Dyaks of Borneo A Record of Intimate Association with the Natives of the Bornean Jungles · 第 1 / 28 章