The interpreter, had been coming in search of me, and I was no little
pleased to meet him, for we got on very well together. Whether
Tugela's--that being his name--stay in the colonies had given him a
liking for white men, or he desired to practice the language, I cannot
tell, but certainly he was unremitting in his attentions, and I have to
confess that I should never have witnessed many of the curious customs
of Caffraria which I have now the pleasure of relating but for his kind
aid; as a proof of this even at the present moment the young fellow had
sought me out, that I might be a witness to the peculiar and cruel--but
of the latter the Kaffir thinks little, being apparently incapable of
understanding the suffering of others--practice of training the horns of
the cattle.
In Tugela's company, therefore, leaving the snuff-takers to enjoy the
powder to their hearts' content, or rather _boxes' contents_, we
proceeded to the isibaya, or enclosure, within the kraal. The place was
full of the beloved oxen. The affection experienced for them, however,
as I before remarked, does not keep the poor animals from being cruelly
tortured, as I speedily found, when, from an advantageous position, I
beheld the following scene.
The place was full of cattle, and I had the opportunity of noticing the
peculiarities of these animals. Smaller than ours, their horns take the
most eccentric shapes, some being bent downwards, curving back even to
the head again; others curled outwards, while some of the cattle
appeared to possess four, nay, eight horns.
I might, and no doubt should, have thought this a natural production,
had I not witnessed the following. Those creatures which I have
mentioned were browsing at pleasure, but a large number of calves were
collected together, surrounded by "boys" and men; these were armed with
knives and roughly made saws, with which, to my astonishment, they were
cutting and sawing the horns, tender and soft as yet, owing to the age
of the miserable animals. I could not help showing my surprise, and
questioning Tugela upon it. He smiled, perhaps at my bad taste in not
admiring the appearance it produced, and most decidedly laughed at my
commiseration of the pain the poor brutes must suffer, he, like all the
Kaffirs, appearing to think nothing of this. "See," he said, directing
my attention to one group, where a Kaffir was holding the nose of a
calf, while another with a saw was sawing a cross on the top of the
sprouting horns, "now, when they grow there will be four of them at each
side of the head, instead of one."
The Kaffir belief of the beauty this training gave to the animal was
certainly not mine; and, seizing an opportunity, I strolled off to the
other side of the isibaya. But, it seemed, I had got from the
frying-pan into the fire; for, to my horror, I came upon a group of
natives literally catting strips of hide from the face and neck of the
wretched oxen, so as to hang down before them, bleeding now, but which I
learned would, when dry, become a fringe, enhancing, according to their
idea, the animal's charms. I have no doubt my young readers will find
it difficult to credit this barbarous custom, as in their case, so
perhaps should I, had I not really witnessed it. As a mother takes
pleasure in decking out her baby with gay ribbons and fine laces, so
does the Kaffir cut the horns into eccentric shapes, and strip portions
from the hide and dewlap of the animal, both from very love of the
recipient.
I must admit, though not a member of that truly excellent Society for
the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, that I grew rather sick at the
sight, and was not sorry to see Tugela coming towards me--evidently,
from the expression of his features, the bearer of some intelligence.
"Something else to see, perhaps," I thought; "I trust it will be of a
more amusing character than this."
To my joy it proved so, for he came to announce that the hunters were
ready to start for the chase. This assuredly being more to my taste, I
gladly quitted the isibaya, and, passing from the outer enclosure, found
myself in the midst of a large number of Kaffirs, waiting with
everything prepared. From the animation of their faces, especially the
excited expression of the "boys," it was very evident that with the
strange race I was among, the chase was a particular feature of delight.
Their dress, if I may be permitted the term, was not in any way
increased; and as I marked the free, easy, graceful manner, in which
they moved, and how impervious their dark, shiny bodies were to the
scorching sun, that was beginning to make even my bronzed countenance
peel, I could not but, in the secret recesses of my heart, envy them.
In respect to my face, however, Tugela speedily gave me relief by
daubing it over with rancid fat. The operation was slightly disgusting
at first to my European ideas, but this rapidly succumbed under the ease
it occasioned me, and I soon found that to the skin, especially of the
white man, this grease is absolutely necessary.
Three or four elder Kaffirs who, by the respect paid them, and a slight
difference in the adornment of their issikoko, I divined were personages
of importance--no doubt renowned hunters--took the lead; and owing to
the chief's permission, I being permitted to accompany them, we set out.
It was not to be an elephant hunt, it appeared, after all, that having
been deferred for a day or two, as the chief had expressed his intention
to be present at the killing of that animal himself; therefore a koodoo
hunt had been substituted in its place. I have called it a hunt, but I
might rather use the word "battue," as will be seen, when I proceed with
my recital.
Together we proceeded through the bush, and more splendid scenery it has
never been my lot to look upon. Mountains rose afar, crowned with
strange foliaged trees, while the land extended before us, undulating
like billows, and covered by the brightest, greenest of vegetation.
These undulations, however, on a nearer approach I found to consist of
vast clefts, or ravines in the earth--called there, kloofs, through some
of which silver streams flowed, while their rough, rugged sides,
composed of masses of rock, trees, and bushes, interlaced together by a
profusion of brilliant and luxuriant parasites, formed the safe home of
numerous beasts of prey which are natives of Africa. We had proceeded
some distance without anything worthy of mention having taken place,
save that I now and then came across relations of my first Kaffir friend
who had served me for a supper--the hyrat--and also a peculiar animal,
at least, in my eyes, called the meerkat, a long-bodied thing with small
ears, a pointed muzzle, long, tail and thin feet armed with claws. I
enquired of Tugela respecting it; for I thought if I ever got back to
dear old England again, that I should like to have as much to tell as
possible. I could learn, however, little of its habits, more than that
its fur was considered valuable owing to its tenacity of life, which
renders it difficult to be captured.
After we had gone on for some time, we came to a halt, and I perceived
the elder hunters were giving orders, which I saw, through their being
obeyed, was that we should separate, for they divided immediately into
parties.
The party I was among instantly set off to one of the kloofs which I
have mentioned, where, separating again, the Kaffirs concealed
themselves, with their assagais and knob-kerries ready to hand, behind
the bushes and rocks. The other party, it appeared, had by a long
detour encircled a whole herd of koodoos, elands, and others--all of the
antelope species.
These animals are remarkably quick of scent--though, by the way, it does
not require much sensitiveness on that head to detect a Kaffir--
therefore the hunters wisely kept to the windward till they had the herd
between themselves and the kloof; then suddenly they showed them to the
browsing animals, which immediately fled from their pursuers in the
direction of the ravine. As they would at times swerve from the right
path, concealed Kaffirs started up, and with shouts headed them back.
Apparently one path alone was left free to them, and on they sped till,
with terrified yet graceful bounds, the poor creatures rushed into the
kloof, apparently their only hope of safety.
Then truly an exciting scene commenced; from every rock, from every bush
there seemed, to spring the dusky form of a Kaffir, his shield and
assagais in his left hand, and his right armed with one of the spears,
which he generally sent with unerring aim at the flying antelopes.
By much persuasion, I fancy, and with a great deal of doubt on the
Kaffir's part, Tugela had procured me a shield and a few assagais;
therefore though, when I had seen the graceful animals being driven on
to their death, I had felt some pity, I must confess it vanished under
the excitement of the occasion, and, from my ambush, I, with as good an
aim as my bad knowledge and want of skill permitted, cast my weapons
also into the terrified herd.
Many fell in the death agonies; but the others, with the speed of light,
dashed on to the other end of the ravine; hope, life seemed to be there
for them. But not so--again they were doomed to disappointment.
Suddenly an array of black figures starting up, barred their exit with
assagais. Most of them fled wildly back again, while some, with a
reckless bravery produced by fright, broke through the hunters' ranks,
and, gaining the open plain, escaped,--at which my heart felt a
sensation of pleasure; for enough is as good as a feast, all the world
over, and surely there were sufficient of the poor creatures left to
glut the appetite of even a Kaffir.
It was indeed a most animating scene. The gloomy kloof, with its
tropical vegetation--the dazzlingly blue sky, and intense sun
overhead,--the sides of the ravine presenting, at every available point,
the lithe form of the Kaffir, while beneath dashed the terror-stricken
animals, or rolled here and there in the pangs of death. It was a
magnificent battue I must own. During it I quite forgot my own
uncertain position, and the fact that, in reality, I was as much in the
power of the men about me as were the poor koodoos at my feet.
Now, after a brief space, the hunt terminated, and all quitted their
places to collect the game and dine. The koodoo is much prized by the
Kaffir, owing to the good flavour and tenderness of its flesh; and soon
one was prepared for our eating. Utensils had been brought with the
party, and, a fire being made, the meat was cast into a pot over it.
Usually the Kaffir lets it boil till it's in rags; but now, before it
was half-done, it was out again, and being eagerly devoured by the
hungry hunters, your humble servant fully doing his part. One thing,
however, much disgusted me. On the death of the koodoo they broke the
leg-bones, and ate the marrow warm, but not with cooking, for that is a
preliminary which they entirely dispense with in enjoying this luxury.
After we had regaled ourselves to our hearts' content, and I had learned
through Tugela that my conduct during the day had much surprised and
pleased my companions, who predicted I might become a good hunter, we
prepared to return to the kraal. The "boys" loaded themselves with the
game, and we marched home. Home! I use the word now from habit, yet
how sadly it sounded to me then. Truly, though no hostility had been
shown to me by the natives, but, on the contrary, rather a friendliness,
so that I felt I had no need to fear respecting my safety; still the
mind of the Englishman, be he in whatever spot of this sphere he may,
when he speaks of home, will revert to the well-known pleasant
chimney-nook and the well-beloved faces of his dear native land.
The sun--ah, and what a sun!--was setting as we came in sight of the
kraal, most of the inhabitants of which flocked out to meet us; for our
load promised food in galore for the morrow.
Abruptly, however, the groups divided, and Metilulu issued forth,
attended by his councillors and joila or beer. Upon his appearance we
came to a halt on the plain till he had seated himself, when, all the
slaughtered animals having been laid before him, the dance began, which
I and my poor companions--how I longed to know what had become of them--
had witnessed from the bush. While this ceremony took place, some young
boys laid across the game to prevent their being attacked by evil
spirits. After this was over, I became aware that my behaviour during
the hunt had been communicated to the chief, and had met with his
approbation. In Kaffir language he highly complimented me, and I in
English responded in equally flowery terms respecting his nobleness, his
kindness, and hospitality.
I uttered all my palaver, as we would say on board ship, with little
thought of its after consequences. Indeed I did not know the good the
gods had in store for me, or to what the approbation of the chief would
lead. I soon found out, however; for when, wearied in every limb, we
returned to the kraal, and I took leave of the mighty Eagle Metilulu,
Tugela conducted me to a different and smaller hut than the one I had
slept in on the previous night with the "boys." This he gave me to
understand for the future entirely belonged to me, with, thank Heaven!
no Kaffir to share it.
Thanking my companion, and begging him to carry my acknowledgments to
his chief for this great favour, I, with more comfort than I had felt on
the previous night, and breathing a far purer atmosphere, placed the
wicker-door over the entrance of the hut; then unrolling my
sleeping-mat, and using my arm as a pillow (not yet being able to manage
the native wooden ones), I, despite the insects, was soon wrapped in a
sound, refreshing sleep.