I awoke early next morning, earlier even than my companions, who laid
slumbering on their mats, or beds made of stems of grass lashed
together. So having nothing better to do, I began to inspect them as
they had inspected me, and could not help again admiring the perfect
symmetry of their dark forms, accompanied by the easy grace attendant
upon every movement of limbs which had never been confined or crippled
by clothing.
I have called them, and till that moment believed them to be of negro
blackness, but I now discovered my error--dark almost to black they
were, but through the skin showed the red blood, giving a peculiar tint,
and anything but an unpleasing appearance; it was, however, rather
spoilt in my opinion by the excessive quantity of grease it is the
custom in Caffraria to rub into the skin, till they shine like a
gentleman's patent leather boot. But on this point, as on many others,
Europeans and Kaffirs differ, for the latter, either male or female,
regard full dress to be the having the body resplendent with grease,
which mode of "dressing" produces, as may be imagined, an exceedingly
disagreeable odour in the close confined spaces of the huts, the only
opening being the low entrance; though in this, as in everything else,
there are few things but have their use--for the oiling the bodies is
absolutely compulsory to prevent the skin cracking under the rays of the
scorching sun.
It was with some little reasoning as to the wherefore that I noticed
that though all were similarly attired in respect to anklets, bracelets,
and aprons, some wore their black woolly hair in its natural state,
while others were shaved entirely, save a ring of matted hair on the top
of their heads. This I learned on after enquiry was called the
issikoko, or head-ring, an adornment much esteemed and venerated by the
wearer, as it proves his social position in his tribe. Before a "boy"
can wear it he has to obtain the permission of his chief; this being
obtained, the ceremony commences. An oval ring is made of some kind of
sinews, which is fitted on the head, and the hair about it rolled round,
being kept thus by the aid of grease and gum, which so mats it together
that it is capable of bearing a polish. Then the hair dresser takes the
keen edge of the assagai and shaves off all the remaining hair, leaving
only the issikoko; upon which the wearer is made a happy man, it being,
according to the Kaffir mind, the greatest ornament he could possess,
and a warrior would sooner lose his life than his head-ring. It also
has its uses, for on occasions of ceremony or war expeditions it forms
an excellent place to stick in the feathers which a Kaffir is always
profuse in using for his head-gear, especially those of the peacock when
they can be procured. Besides this, in domestic life the issikoko
always holds the wearer's snuff spoon, of which I shall speak further
on.
I had barely ended my inspection, and was beginning to think with some
anxiety of what the day would bring forth, when my companions awoke,
and, having no clothes to put on, were not long over their toilet, so
were quickly ready for the first meal, that consisted of amasi and maize
made into a kind of porridge.
This repast made me acquainted with another Kaffir custom, and not a
pleasant one.
The large pot containing the porridge is placed in the centre, the
partakers sitting round it, when, to prevent one getting more than
another, they _all use the same spoon_; thus the first plunges it into
the porridge, brings it out as full as it can be, gulps down the
contents, then passes the spoon to his neighbour.
As I had from a child adapted myself to the rocks, to the sunshine, to
the ocean and to its storms, so did I try to do with these people among
whom fate had cast me, and sitting on the floor making one of the circle
I so strove to imitate them, that I soon might have passed for a Kaffir
myself, save for the colour of my skin and dress.
The sour amasi--the natives never use fresh milk, calling it
indigestible--was at first anything but pleasant; but I determined to
make as good a meal as I could, not knowing when I might get another.
Scarcely had I finished when two or three, evidently Kaffirs of
distinction, appeared, and notified by signs that I was to follow them.
I immediately did so, and crawling out of the hut was again conducted to
the chief Metilulu's presence.
This time, however, the interview was not to take place in the hut, but
an open space, where I found him seated, surrounded by his councillors,
and with the rough jug containing the beloved joila, Kaffir beer, by his
side. Indeed, it seemed to me that he never moved without it, and so it
proved, eating and drinking being the prerogatives of a Kaffir chief.
Thus they alone of the race are fat.
Metilulu's dress was also different. No doubt he wished to awe me with
his appearance. On his head, stuck into the issikoko, were numerous
feathers of brilliant hues, some long and erect, others drooping by the
side of his dusky face. Fastened round his throat, so as to fall on his
chest, were the tails of wild animals, as the leopard; from his waist
fell others to the knee, so thickly as to answer the purpose of the
Kaffir apron, while hanging from the elbow and the calf of the leg was
the long white silky hair of some kind of goat, finally, a kaross or
cloak of splendid fur fell from his shoulders.
In his hand he carried an assagai, while a young Kaffir standing a
little behind, held his high oval shield. The councillors' costumes
were something similar, though their head-dresses were rather eccentric,
and they did not possess so many tails, which can only be procured by
killing the animals to whom they belong, and the Kaffir who does _that_,
will seldom be found to part with this trophy of his courage.
Being led up to Metilulu, I was told through the interpreter to sit
down, upon doing which I was ordered to begin my description of my
native land. They had heard of it--a country over there--pointing
northward; but they would hear more.
I instantly complied, and gave a glowing account of the power of
England, her wealth, and customs. To all, the chief and his councillors
listened with the greatest attention, and the only time he expressed
incredulity was on my mentioning it to be governed by a Queen.
"A woman!" he ejaculated, "impossible."
I assured him it was not so: that four queens had ruled England at
different periods.
"If so," he rejoined, of course through the interpreter, "how would you
have me believe the nation brave and warlike who could be governed by a
woman?"
Such a speech was not surprising, when it is remembered that the Kaffir
regards himself as a very superior being to a woman, whom, though termed
wife, he knows only as a servant to fulfil his behests, and wait upon
him in all minor offices. The only things a Kaffir does being to attend
to his beloved cows, which often he values far more highly than his
wives,--for polygamy is practised in Caffraria--to hunt, to smoke, and
to sleep.
In conclusion, I begged him not to regard me as an enemy, assuring him
if he were ever to visit my land that he would be treated as the great
man he was; therefore though only a poor sailor, I hoped he would not
hold me as a prisoner, but let me learn the habits and manners of his
people, in which I took much interest.
I put this half authoritatively as became a native of the great country
I had been describing, and half with suitable reverence for the
mightiness of him I was addressing.
For some little while he talked with his councillors, and by the
constant repetition of the word "Molonga," which I had discovered to
mean "white man," I knew it was about myself. Then through the
interpreter, he again addressed me, his speech signifying that lately
they had been much troubled by attacks upon their cattle by the Boers,
and had at first taken me for a spy of theirs; but if my words were true
I should be at liberty to go where I liked about the kraal, during his
chiefship's pleasure, and that all they could show me they would; yet
should I prove an enemy a thousand assagais should pierce my body
through and through. He ended with a request to know if I had saved
anything from the wreck.
I answered I had nothing but the few rags of clothes that covered me,
whereupon I saw his little bead-like eyes fasten on my shirt front with
a most unmistakeable expression. Glancing down in the same direction, I
perceived it was the large pearl buttons which had attracted his notice;
and having heard something of the cupidity of these tribes for such
articles, I instantly plucked them off--no difficult matter--and with
those at the wrists, presented them to him, saying I had nothing worthy
his acceptance, nor to show the great gratitude I felt for his kind
behaviour to me, than those.
With a pleased smile he took them, evidently much delighted, then
plucking a string or fibre from some part of his dress, he strung the
buttons upon it and suspended them round his neck. So proud was the
little chief of this new ornament, that I am sure he held his head an
inch higher for a good while after.
Then the interview broke up, and I returned to the "boys'" hut to
partake of some of the game caught the evening before, now rather high.
I was attended by the interpreter by Metilulu's express orders, and he
informed me that an elephant hunt was to take place that afternoon, they
having tracked a splendid one, at which the chief had given permission
for me to attend if I chose. It may be imagined that I did choose.
Indeed, I was beginning to feel very anxious about my two companions; my
position was looking brighter; and I hoped, if they had not escaped and
were now upon some eligible point of land from whence they might signal
a passing ship, that I might come across them, and, if they liked,
introduce them to Metilulu and Kaffir life.
On entering the hut dinner was ready, to which I was invited, and found
the repast no unsavoury one. When it was concluded I strolled out to
wait for the hunt to start, too accustomed now to care for the
observation I created. During my wandering I came across a rather
amusing little scene to an European.
My approach concealed by a hut, it was as I glanced round it to windward
that I was a witness of the following custom:--Leaning against the side,
my white face concealed by the skull of a cow fixed on the thatch--stay,
before going further, let me for a moment digress, and explain why these
skulls, to which I have twice referred, are here. I have already
remarked upon the great love of the Kaffir for his cows. All his
ambition is to possess them; dreadful frays take place because of them;
and stealing, or, as the Scotch term it, "cattle lifting," is very
prevalent; yet at some ceremonies, or when vanity, which exists in these
uncivilised regions as elsewhere, steps in, the owner of the kine will
kill a cow to entertain his friends; but to show that he did once
possess, and was rich enough to spare it, he keeps the skull to place
upon the thatch of his hut. Thus the residence of a chief, who is rich
in cattle, has often several of these--I must say hideous adornments.
But to go back to what I saw.
I had observed two Kaffirs advancing, and had drawn back, not anxious to
meet them, when abruptly they came to a halt, and with all the gravity
imaginable squatted on the ground. I was turning away, thinking I might
disturb some private conference, when I perceived--for I was on the
watch for everything peculiar--one of the Kaffirs take from his ear a
kind of little bottle, and from his issikoko an ivory spoon with a round
bowl. This he filled completely with snuff from the bottle, and
afterwards passed it to the other, turning his head away, according to
Kaffir etiquette, so that he might not appear to watch the quantity
taken. His companion--not sufficiently rich, I suppose, to own a
spoon--poured some on the palm of his hand, which he worked to a conical
shape to fit the nostril, whereupon the two inhaled the luxury without
losing a grain; which no sooner had they done than, not to my surprise,
considering the enormous heap of the pungent powder they had taken,
large tears began to roll down their cheeks. But this was not all. As
their eyes overflowed, with their thumb-nails the Kaffirs made a channel
down each cheek for the water to have free course to the corners of
their mouths, and there they sat in solemn state, enjoying, as they
really do, their snuff.
The sight, however, was so ludicrous to my English notions, that I had
to beat a rapid retreat, lest by a burst of uncontrollable laughter I
might betray my presence. I hurried round the other side of the hut,
and came full upon the interpreter, who announced that the hunting party
was prepared to start.