Materials Required:
½ box Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold.
2 skeins contrasting color Germantown, 4-fold.
1 amber crochet hook, No. 4, 14 inches long.
1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 4, same length.
Using the principal color, cast on 78 stitches and work, in Raspberry
stitch, as follows:
First row: knit plain.
Second row: purl.
Third row: with crochet hook make 1 d. c. in first stitch, slip stitch
from pin; * 1 d. c. through the next two stitches, keeping the stitches
on knitting pin, 1 s. c. through the back of the same two stitches. Slip
the two knitted stitches from the pin and repeat from * all along the
row, ending with 1 d. c. in the final stitch.
Fourth row: purl.
Fifth row: knit.
Sixth row: like third. These six rows constitute one pattern and are
repeated over and over again for the whole jacket. After four rows of
clusters have been made, decrease by knitting together the two first and
the two last stitches of the knitted row. Begin the next cluster row by
working a whole cluster through the two first stitches on pin and end
row in same manner through the two last stitches. Make one more row of
clusters, in same way, then decrease, as before, on the knitted row. The
next two cluster rows will begin and end with 1 d. c. in the first and
last stitches.
Continue to decrease in this way, until six stitches in all have been
decreased at each end. 66 stitches remain. After two more cluster rows
have been made, increase, by knitting two stitches in the first and last
stitches of the knitted row, and continue to increase after _each_
cluster row until 4 stitches have been added at each end. On these 74
stitches continue until the work measures about 23 inches, or is long
enough to reach to the neck.
Divide for neck and shoulders, as follows: knit 28 stitches and run them
on a thread or extra pin; bind off 18 stitches for neck and on the
remaining 28 stitches begin the left front. Increase at the neck end, on
each of the knitted and purled rows until there are 50 stitches on the
pin. On these 50 stitches continue until four cluster rows have been
made, then at front edge decrease 1 stitch on each of the knitted and
purled rows, keeping the under arm seam straight until waistline has
been reached; then increase at the under arm seam on the knitted and
purled rows, every other time. Continue decreasing on front edge, as
before. Work until front is as long as the back, and bind off.
Take the stitches from the thread and on them make the right front, as
left was made, taking care to keep them opposites. Sew up the under arm
seams, leaving enough space at the top for the arm holes.
BORDER. Around the entire garment and arm holes work, in plain
crocheting, as follows:
First round: 1 s. c. in each stitch.
Second round: 1 d. c. in each stitch of preceding round, putting extra
stitches on rounding corners to prevent capping.
Third round: 1 d. c. around the post of each d. c. of second round. No
extra stitches on corners. When this round has been finished turn it
back all around garment.
Using the contrasting color, work around outside edge, as follows: * 1
s. c. in stitch, ch. 3, another s. c. in same stitch, skip 1 stitch and
repeat from * all around. Work the same finish all around the edge of
the turned-back round, skipping one stitch between picots around neck
and sleeves and on the rounding edges skipping two stitches between or
enough to make the border perfectly flat.
Fasten the right front over the left with crocheted buttons and frogs
made of the contrasting color. The frogs are made of a chain stitch
cord, using two threads of the wool. Use washable button molds and
crochet a covering for them, as follows: ch. 3 and join in a ring, 6 s.
c. in the ring. Do not join. 2 s. c. in each stitch of the preceding
round, then widen enough to make work flat until the desired size has
been attained. Make 1 round without widening and then skip every other
stitch until proper size. Slip in mold, draw up and sew in place.
Place three buttons and frogs on each under arm seam.
[Illustration:
Lattice Work Scarf
]