It is not likely that many craftsmen will care to produce table wares or
even that they will be able to acquire the necessary skill. Simple as
these wares seem, they are, in fact, the most difficult of all to make
well. In factory working, one man makes nothing but cups, another
saucers and another plates, so that each attains the skill of constant
practice, but this is out of the question for the studio worker. At the
same time it is well to know how it is done and it may be that some one
will undertake to produce a few pieces for the sake of the enjoyment
arising therefrom.
It is possible to finish a cup upon the wheel just as a vase is made.
The handle is modeled in clay and fastened in place with slip when in
the leather hard condition. Saucers and plates cannot be made in this
manner; first, because the broad thin bottom will surely crack and,
second, because it is impracticable to turn a plate or saucer over in
order to finish the bottom. The risk of breakage is so great that there
is nothing to be gained.
If cups be needed of uniform size they must be molded. The making of the
molds has already been described. A small cylinder of the proper size is
thrown in clay and removed from the wheel while soft. A number of these
should be made at one time so as to avoid changing the wheel head often.
When all are ready a hollow head shaped to receive the cup mold is set
on the wheel and a mold inserted. One of the soft cylinders is now
lowered gently into the mold and as the wheel is revolved the soft clay
is pressed firmly against the walls with the fingers. A piece of wood,
called a rib, cut to the exact shape of the inside of the cup, is used
to smooth off the interior. The top edge is cut off and rounded and the
mold is set aside for the cup to harden. As soon as the cup can be
turned out it is set upside down upon the wheel and the bottom turned.
Another method dispenses with the formation of the cylinder or "lining."
A ball of clay of the proper size is dropped into the mold and pressed
into shape with the fingers, the wheel, of course, being spun. The
finishing is accomplished with the rib as before. This method will
answer for wares which are to receive a low fire but for high
temperatures the clay must be handled by the first-named plan.
The cup is not complete without a handle. This may be modeled as already
stated but to make each one of half a dozen in this way is unduly
tedious. The better plan is to model a handle in wax and make a mold as
already directed. A roll of soft clay is then laid in the mold, the two
halves pressed together and the handle taken out and finished. Care must
be taken that cup and handle are of the same degree of moisture, leather
hard, for choice, or they will part company as they dry. The fastening
is done with thick slip.
The method for saucers is the same as that for plates, so that one
description will suffice. The first step is to make a tool or profile. A
large handful of soft clay is rolled out into a thick cylinder and laid
down upon the plate mold. It should extend from the center to the
circumference, forming a radius of the circle. The clay is pressed
closely to the surface of the mold and part of it is squeezed into a
knob which will form the hand-hold of the tool (Fig. 16, page 66). The
clay is left in this position until it becomes nearly but not quite dry.
It is then taken off and whittled into shape. The front edge must be
straight and must lie along a radius of the plate. The foot is cut in at
the proper point and a broad wedge-shaped hollow is made so as to gather
the clay and pile it up into the foot. The hand-hold is shaped so as to
fit comfortably between the first and second fingers of the right hand.
When properly shaped the tool is thoroughly dried and then burned in the
kiln. The fire must not be severe as it is important not to shrink the
tool to any great extent. After burning slight corrections can be made
with a file or a hard stone. The heel of the profile must be exactly at
the center of the plate and the toe or curve must rest on the outer edge
of the plate mold.
In making plates a "batting block" and "batter" are used. The former is
a heavy block of plaster which is fixed to a strong table. It must be
saturated with water when in use. The wedging table already described
will serve for this. The batter is a disc of plaster to which a handle
is attached. It may be made of a thick plaster block, the handle being
cut out of the substance itself. This is also kept saturated with water
so that the clay will not stick. A ball of clay is laid on the block and
gently beaten out with the batter into a disc of the proper size and
thickness. The face of this is then polished with a steel blade and the
disc is then lifted, turned over and laid, polished side downward, upon
the mold. The wheel is then revolved and the clay pressed firmly to the
mold with wet hands. The tool is now dipped in water and pressed
steadily upon the revolving clay. The heel must be adjusted accurately
to the center and the foot will be seen to rise up in its proper place.
The operation is not easy and many failures must be expected but
practice will accomplish the desired result. When leather hard the plate
is gone over with a thin piece of rubber and when quite hard it may be
removed from the mold. The edge is now trimmed and the face sponged over
and the plate is ready for the kiln.