Printed by permission of Orange, Judd Co.
Some persons water their plants every day, without regard to the
season, and give about the same quantity one day that they do another.
The natural result is that in winter their plants are weak and
spindling, with yellow leaves, and few, if any, flowers. The owner
will tell you that she "don't see what ails her plants." She is sure
she gives them all the water they need, and she "never forgets to do
this." If she were to forget to do this occasionally it would be a
great deal better for the plants. In summer the evaporation of
moisture from the soil is rapid, because of warmth and wind, but in
winter this goes on slowly, and the amount of water given should be
regulated by the ability of the soil to dispose of it. Where too much
is given, as has been said in the chapter on planting, the soil is
reduced to a condition of muddiness, unless good drainage has been
provided, and those who give too much water generally neglect this
item.
Another woman will give water in little driblets, "whenever she
happens to think of it." The result is that her plants are chronic
sufferers from the lack of moisture at the roots. The wonder is that
they contrive to exist. Turn them out of their pots and you will
generally find that the upper portion of the soil is moist, and in
this what few roots there are have spread themselves, while below it,
the soil is almost as dry as dust, and no root could live there.
Plants grown under these conditions are almost always dwarf and sickly
specimens, with but few leaves and most of these yellow ones. You will
find that plants grown under either condition are much more subject to
attacks of insects than healthy plants are.
There is only one rule to be governed in watering plants that I have a
knowledge of and that is this: Never apply water to any plant until
the surface of the soil looks dry. When you do give water, give enough
of it to thoroughly saturate the soil. If some runs through at the
bottom of the pot, you can be sure that the whole ball of earth is
moist.
I follow this rule with good results. Of course, like all other rules,
it has exceptions. For instance, a calla, being a sort of aquatic
plant, requires very much more water than a geranium. A cactus, being
a native of hot, dry climates, requires but very little. The florist
who is interested in his plants will study their habits, in order to
understand the requirements of each, and will soon be able to treat
them intelligently. He will soon be able to tell at a glance when a
plant requires more water. He will know what kinds to give a good deal
to, and what kinds to water sparingly. Until he has acquired this
ability it is well for him to adhere to the rule given above, for if
he follows it, he cannot go very far wrong in either direction. Let
the water used be of about the same temperature as that of the room in
which the plants are. I am often asked which is best, hard or soft
water. I have tried both and see little difference.
Many persons fail to attain success with plants in baskets and window
boxes. Ninety-nine times out of a hundred, the failure is due to lack
of water. A basket is exposed to dry air on all sides, and is
suspended near the ceiling, as a general thing, where the air is much
warmer than below; consequently the evaporation takes place more
rapidly than from the pot on the window sill. Because it is somewhat
difficult to get at, water is not given as often as required, and then
generally in smaller quantities than is needed. The first thing you
know, your plants are turning yellow, and dropping their leaves, and
soon they are in such a condition that you throw them away in disgust,
and conclude that you haven't "the knack" of growing good basket
plants. All the trouble comes from an insufficient water supply.
There are two methods by which you may make it easier to attend to the
needs of the plants. One is, to have the baskets suspended by long
cords running over pulleys, by which you can lower them into a tub of
water, where they can be left until they are thoroughly soaked
through. The other is this: Take a tin can and punch a hole through
the bottom of it. Let this hole be large enough to allow the water to
escape, drop by drop. Set this on top of your basket and arrange the
foliage to cover it.
If the hole is not so large as it ought to be, the soil will not be
kept moist all through. In this case, make it larger. A little
observation will enable you to regulate matters in such a manner as to
secure just the flow of water needed. By the "tin-can method" of
watering basket plants, the trouble of watering in the ordinary way
will be done away with, and the results will be extremely
satisfactory.
Plants can be grown nearly as well in the window box as in the open
ground if enough water is given to keep the soil moist, all through,
at all times. The "little-and-often" plan, spoken of in this chapter,
will lead to dismal failure in the care of window boxes. Apply at
least a pailful of water every day, in warm weather. If this is done,
there need be no failure. If those who have failed heretofore will
bear this in mind, and follow the advice given, they may have window
boxes that will make their windows beautiful during the entire summer,
with very little trouble.