CHAPTER XIII_The Danube

RUSTZUK TO THE BLACK SEA

“Swol’n by the tribute of a score of lands

The mighty river merges in the sea.”

When Rustzuk is reached, the Danube has attained a width of about

two and a half miles, the right bank still marked by low hills,

the left still flat and marshy. Rustzuk is a large town of about

forty-six thousand inhabitants, having a picturesque appearance from

the water, with its scattered houses on the hillsides, its trees,

and the slender minarets which pleasingly vary the lines of other

buildings. Long-regarded as a place of great strategic importance, the

town suffered much during the wars of Turkey with her neighbours. It

was bombarded by the Russians from the opposite shore in 1877; since

Bulgarian independence was assured it has developed rapidly; and, no

longer a fortified place--it was dismantled in accordance with the

terms of the Berlin Treaty of 1878--is now an important trading centre,

having communication with the Black Sea port of Varna. Though most

picturesque as seen from the Danube, Rustzuk is an interesting town,

its mixed population affording considerable variety of costume, and its

large Turkish bazaar retaining much of Oriental colour.

Opposite, on the Rumanian bank, is the growing town of Giurgevo,

situated on flat marshy land. This town, founded by the Genoese in the

fourteenth century, and named by them after St. George, is becoming

an important centre for the transhipment of merchandise, having

railway communication with Bukarest, and being one of the ports for

the extensive grain-growing districts of the country. Though only

accessible by steamers at high water, it has another port in connexion

with it, little more than two miles further down-stream at Smarda.

During the Crimean War, Giurgevo was so obstinately held by the Turks,

that the fortress was not given up before thirty thousand of the

besiegers had fallen, and until scarcely a roof was left to shelter the

townspeople. It was from Giurgevo that the Russian forces bombarded

Rustzuk before crossing the river and making that indomitable attack on

Plevna which was even more indomitably withstood.

The country between Giurgevo and the capital, Bukarest, is part of

that vast plain which lies to the left of the Danube during most of

its course after leaving the foothills of the Carpathians below the

Iron Gate. The following description of a drive across this plain,

was written before the coming of the railways: “We left Giurgevo at

a brisk pace, and commenced our journey across a vast plain, which

seemed to be interminable; I never saw such a plain in my life; hour

after hour we hurried forward, the horizon never rising an inch, and

nothing appearing to vary its straight, unbroken line, whichever way

we turned. There was no road, but we followed the track of wheels,

lightly marked in the dust, and generally without turning or deviating

one iota from its course, which seemed to have been drawn on the globe

with a gigantic ruler. Sometimes we would pass through a wood, and

occasionally we crossed a river on a bridge formed of unhewn logs.

Storks flew heavily from us, and herds of horses, cows, and buffaloes,

lazily moved aside as we rushed past them in a cloud of dust, for

the Wallachian drivers are unsparing of their team. We saw only two

villages, Bungasko and Roman, at which latter place we crossed the

river Ardjish, where the huts of the peasants seemed to be merely

square holes dug in the ground with a roof of branches covered with

mud, and a door in one end, accessible by a slope cut for the purpose,

but also serving to lead rain water into it.... After ten hours’ drive

we reached the gates of Bukarest.”[17]

Below Rustzuk and Giurgevo, the Danube widens yet again, until it is

about three miles from bank to bank, though the far-stretching surface

of the water is still diversified with many willow-grown islands, and

at times with exposed sandbanks. The shores (in early summer) “present

a never ending succession of pasture lands, so rich, so verdant, so

luxuriant, that one might almost fancy they were the reality of the

Indian’s dream of Paradise, where the green hunting fields have no

end.” Tutrakan, a small, picturesquely situated town on the Bulgarian

bank, and Oltenitza (whence a railway runs to Bukarest), on the low

Rumanian shore, are the next stopping places, after which the river

finds its way through a veritable network of islands and marshy tracts

abounding in many species of waterfowl, and “greatly beloved by

sportsmen in search of game.”

It was probably hereabouts that, during the latter part of the fourth

century, the great migration of Goths crossed the Danube into the Roman

province of Lower Mœsia. The Goths, pressed southwards by the harrying

Huns, “an unknown and monstrous race of savages,” had appealed to the

Emperor Valens and were allowed, under the harshest conditions, to put

the great river between themselves and their powerful enemies. Gibbon,

in the course of a very full account of the movement, says: “the

prayers of the Goths were granted, and their service was accepted by

the imperial court; and orders were immediately despatched to the civil

and military governors of the Thracian diocese, to make the necessary

preparations for the passage and subsistence of a great people, till

a proper and sufficient territory could be allotted for their future

residence. The liberality of the Emperor was accompanied, however,

with two harsh and rigorous conditions, which prudence might justify

on the side of the Romans; but which distress alone could extort from

the indignant Goths. Before they passed the Danube, they were required

to deliver their arms; and it was insisted that their children should

be taken from them, and dispersed through the provinces of Asia, where

they might be civilized by the arts of education, and serve as hostages

to secure the fidelity of their parents.... The imperial mandate was

at length received for transporting over the Danube, the whole body

of the Gothic nation; but the execution of this order was a task of

labour and difficulty. The stream of the Danube, which in those parts

is above a mile broad, had been swelled by incessant rains; and in this

tumultuous passage, many were swept away and drowned, by the rapid

violence of the current. A large fleet of vessels, of boats, and of

canoes, was provided: many days and nights they passed and repassed

with indefatigable toil, and the most strenuous diligence was exerted

by the officers of Valens, that not a single barbarian, of those who

were reserved to subvert the foundations of Rome, should be left on the

opposite shore.”

In a great number of barrows scattered about the Bulgarian hills

below Rustzuk, some travellers have recognized relics of this great

migration, which was to cost Rome so dear. These barrows, it is said,

“are of Gothic origin; and if opened would most probably disclose the

same contents as those in Britain--such as bones, armour, pottery,

ornaments and idols. Their appearance on these wild hills, with the

unchanged soil and aspect of the surrounding country, forcibly recalled

our minds to that period when its plains were occupied by the Northern

hordes, all ready to burst the feeble barrier of the Roman empire, then

fast declining. Here

‘Tombs sentinel the plain,

Itself a tomb that undulates with dust.’”

The next place of importance below Rustzuk is Silistria, “the citadel

of the Danube,” about sixty miles further down-stream, and this, too,

like other of the Bulgarian towns along the Danube side, has long been

notable as a fortress, “forming, as it does, with Rustzuk and Shumla, a

connected triangle, which must be broken before any enemy could attempt

the passage of the Balkans in this direction with safety.” In Roman

times it was, as Durostorum, the headquarters of a legion, and one of

the most important towns of Lower Mœsia. There are several records of

its withstanding sieges and of its capture in the long past. In 1810 it

was taken by the Russians and the fortifications destroyed, only to be

rebuilt and attacked again by the same enemy nearly twenty years later,

when it withstood for nine months a siege in which the assailants lost

three thousand men. Again, in 1854, it stubbornly kept off the attack

of the Russians under Gortschakoff, while, when it was invested during

the Russo-Turkish War of 1877-8, it held out so stubbornly that it was

not evacuated by the Turks until after the conclusion of peace. It

used to be regarded as the strongest fortified town in Turkey, and its

war record seems to bear out that reputation. After the war of 1828,

Silistria was for some years in the hands of the Russians, as it was to

be garrisoned by them until the Turkish war indemnity was paid. It is

said that the town and the surrounding country soon gave evidence of

the superior industry of the Russian peasants, who were introduced and

settled there during the period of occupation.

Shortly beyond Silistria the Danube leaves Bulgarian territory, after

which Rumania is on both sides of the stream, for the land on the

right, the Dobrudja, extending from the Danube to the Black Sea, was

awarded to Rumania by the Treaty of Berlin. Both sides, too, become

flat alike. The river is still greatly diversified by islands covered

with bushes and reeds--“more resembling a sea studded with innumerable

islets than a river”--while the avi-fauna is particularly rich, immense

flocks of wild swans, wild geese, pelicans, herons, and other waterfowl

being often seen. Miss Skene described how, in journeying up the river,

the steamer in which she travelled was compelled to moor hereabouts

at night, in a wilderness by no means devoid of beauty. “We lay under

a wooded bank with many little fairy islands around us, all covered

with green bushes, whose very wildness and want of cultivation were

their principal charm ... pelicans and storks stalking about on the

lonely islands, uttering at times a wild cry, which more than anything

I know brings most forcibly to the mind the images of solitude and

desolation.” Through scenery thus indicated, the river continues for

many miles of the northerly course which it takes beyond Silistria.

About forty miles below that place a lengthy railway bridge--the only

one below Belgrade--crosses the Danube, connecting Bukarest with the

Black Sea port of Costantza (Kustendji), near to which place was Tomi,

where Ovid spent his long years of exile. Before the bridge comes in

sight an interesting relic of the Roman occupation is to be noted

in the Wall of Trajan--a double rampart of earth, which runs from

near the village of Rasova to Kustendji. The railway bridge, which

crosses the main stream of the Danube and the Borcea arm, is over two

and a half miles in length, and one of the most remarkable examples

of this kind of engineering; it has sixty-eight spans, the longest

of which--one of those over the main stream--is a cantilever over

six hundred feet in length. When it is realized that the foundations

of the piers are laid in water the mean depth of which is nearly a

hundred feet at ordinary water level, and that the bridge is made at a

height of more than one hundred and twenty feet at low water, to enable

sailing ships to pass through unhindered, the boast that its completion

is one of the greatest engineering feats of modern times will scarcely

be regarded as an exaggeration. The bridge was completed and opened for

traffic in 1895, having cost a sum of close upon a million and a half

sterling.

The broad river flows on, past many islands, past occasional villages,

for many miles, to Hersova, a small town on a height which, like so

many of the places along the Lower Danube, suffered severely in the

wars between Russia and Turkey. This has been described as “a species

of oasis in the desert, prettily situated on an undulating eminence,

with a fortified castle, and a large garrison; its chief importance

arising from the circumstance that it covers every point in this

direction where an enemy might attempt to effect a landing in that

rectangular peninsula called the Dobrudja.”[18] On the left bank just

beyond--where the tributary Jalomitza flows in--is another landing

place, Gura-Jalomitza, near which a branch of the river goes off to

the right, forming an extensive island or fen, which is described as a

mass of reeds, and intersected by streams and channels, radiating in

every direction, and said to abound in wildfowl and herds of half-wild

swine. Near the lower end of this island, there stands on the left

bank the important town of Braila, the chief Rumanian port of entry,

an important centre of the grain and timber trades, and a town with

over fifty thousand inhabitants. Its chief interest is as a commercial

and shipping centre, for it has nothing of architectural beauty to

show, and its surroundings are flat and monotonous. Not far from Braila

there are remains of a bridge, which tradition says was built across

the Danube about five hundred years before the beginning of our era

by Darius the Great. About ten miles below Braila, the larger port of

Galatz is reached, a town situated between the confluence of the Sereth

and of the Pruth, with the Danube, and where the great river makes its

final bend eastwards to the Black Sea, still about ninety miles distant.

Galatz has extensive quays and a very large shipping trade, vessels of

2500 tons being able to come thus far up the river. It is a thriving

and growing port, with a population not far short of a hundred

thousand. The main part of the town is built on the rising ground that

lies between the two tributaries named.

In St. Mary’s church here is the tomb of the Cossack chief Mazeppa,

immortalized in literature by Byron’s narrative poem. Mazeppa was a

member of a noble Polish family, who, being page at the Polish Court,

intrigued with the wife of one of the nobles, was discovered, and by

the irate husband was lashed naked to the back of a wild horse, which

was then turned adrift--

“I will not tire

With long recital of the rest

Since I became the Cossack’s guest.

They found me senseless on the plain,

They bore me to the nearest hut,

They brought me into life again--

Me--one day o’er their realm to reign!

Thus the vain fool who sought to glut

His rage, refining on my pain,

Sent me forth to the wilderness,

Bound, naked, bleeding, and alone.

To pass the desert to a throne--

What mortal his own doom may guess?”

Byron makes Mazeppa tell his story to King Charles XII. of Sweden after

the close of “dread Pultowa’s day.” Mazeppa died of poison in the same

year as the battle of Pultowa. Owing to his alliance with Charles his

name was execrated in Russia, and he was hanged in effigy. His tomb in

the Galatz church is believed to have been rifled during one of the

Russian occupations.

Reaching its junction with the Pruth about ten miles below Galatz, the

Danube passes from Rumanian territory on the left bank, and reaches

Russian. Between the Pruth and the Black Sea is Bessarabia, which was

detached from Rumania and ceded to Russia by the Treaty of Berlin,

Rumania receiving by way of inadequate compensation the tract of

Dobrudja already mentioned. From here the Danube runs east past the

small Russian town of Reni and the Rumanian fishing village, formerly

a Turkish fortress, of Isaccea, to the point where, near Tulcea on the

Rumanian side, it branches at the beginning of the extensive delta.

Primarily these branches are two--the St. George’s to the south-east

and the Kilia to the north, which forms the Russian frontier. Each of

these branches forks again, cutting the vast delta into a maze of reedy

islands.

On the Kilia branch are the towns of Ismail and Kilia, which may be

more particularly referred to before we follow the course taken by the

river steamers to the Black Sea. Ismail is a fortress and river-port,

with upwards of thirty thousand inhabitants, and visited by over a

thousand vessels each year.

“The fortress is called Ismail, and is placed

Upon the Danube’s left branch and left bank,

With buildings in the Oriental taste,

But still a fortress of the foremost rank,

Or was at least, unless ’tis since defaced,

Which with your conquerors is a common prank:

It stands some eighty versts from the high sea,

And measures round of toises thousand three.”

Thus Byron described the place when narrating Don Juan’s experiences

at the time that Ismail “was beleagured both by land and water, by

Souvarov,”

“the greatest chief

That ever peopled hell with heroes slain,

Or plunged a province or a realm in grief.”

The whole story of the siege--with many “asides”--is told in the

seventh and eighth cantos of “Don Juan,” which tell of the hero’s

exploits between his strange adventures on the Bosphorus and those in

“the chief city of the immortal Peter’s polished boors.”

Kilia, the other Russian river-port, much nearer the mouths of this

northern arm of the Danube, is a growing place; but the depth of water

in the channel is not sufficient to make the Kilia branch of the

river of great importance, although it is that by which the greatest

volume of Danube water reaches the sea. Returning to the head of the

delta, and following the main or southern branch, we have near its

commencement the Rumanian town of Tulcea, another town of growing

importance as a commercial and shipping centre, where the works of the

European Danube Commission (the headquarters of which are at Sulina)

are established. That Commission has made the Sulina channel, which

branches to the left from the St. George’s arm, the chief navigation

stream. Sulina, a widespread low-lying town about the middle of

the eastern side of the great delta, has grown from being a village

of a few mud huts to a town of five thousand inhabitants since the

improvements of the navigation under an International Commission were

begun over half a century ago. The extent of those improvements may be

gathered from a couple of passages written by British representatives

on that Commission. Sir Charles Hartley, who was chief engineer to the

Commission from 1856 to 1907, wrote some years later a description of

the scene as it was when he began his labours in 1856:

“The entrance to the Sulina branch was a wild, open seaboard, strewn

with wrecks, the hulls and masts of which, sticking out of the

submerged sandbanks, gave to mariners the only guide where the deepest

channel was to be found. The depth of the channel varied from seven to

eleven feet, and was rarely more than nine, feet.

“The site now occupied by wide quays extending several miles in length

was then entirely covered with water when the sea rose a few inches

above ordinary level, and that even in a perfect calm; the banks of the

river near the mouth were only indicated by clusters of wretched hovels

built on piles and by narrow patches of sand skirted by tall reeds, the

only vegetable product of the vast swamps beyond.

“For some years before the improvements, an average of two thousand

vessels of an aggregate capacity of 400,000 tons visited the Danube,

and of this number more than three-fourths landed either the whole or

part of their cargoes from lighters in the Sulina roadstead, where,

lying off a lee shore, they were frequently exposed to the greatest

danger. Shipwrecks were of common occurrence, and occasionally the

number of disasters was appalling. One dark winter night in 1855,

during a terrific gale, twenty-four sailing ships and sixty lighters

went ashore off the mouth and upwards of three hundred persons

perished.”

That indicates something of the old-time dangers of navigating the

channels of the Danube delta. By the making of Sulina a safe port, the

building of lighthouses, and the constant dredging and building up

of the banks of the Sulina arm of the river, a wonderful change has

been wrought, there being now a continuous channel at the entrance

“twenty-four feet in depth, 5200 feet in length, and three hundred feet

in width between the piers.” The change, even within the first few

years of the Commission’s starting work, was remarkable; for while in

1855 out of 2928 vessels navigating the lower Danube thirty-six were

wrecked, out of nearly the same number ten years later only seven were

wrecked. Other changes may best be indicated in the words of Sir Henry

Trotter, the present British representative on the Danube Commission:

“Freights from Galatz and Braila to North Sea ports have fallen from

fifty shillings to about twelve shillings or even ten shillings per

ton. Sailing ships of 200 tons register have given way to steamers

up to 4000 tons register carrying a dead-weight of nearly 8000 tons;

and good order has succeeded chaos. From 1847 to 1860 an average of

203 British ships entered the Danube, averaging 193 tons each; from

1861 to 1889, 486 ships averaging 796 tons; in 1893, 905 vessels of

1,287,765 tons, or 68 per cent. of the total traffic, and rather more

than two and a half times the total amount of British tonnage visiting

the Danube in the fourteen years between 1847 and 1860. The average

amount of cereals (principally wheat) annually exported from the Danube

during the period 1901-1905 was 13,000,000 quarters, _i.e._ about five

times the average annual exportation during the period 1861-1867. It

has been calculated that between 1861 and 1902 the total tonnage of

ships frequenting the Danube increased fivefold, while the mean size of

individual ships increased tenfold.”[19]

Sir Henry Trotter’s authoritative account of the varying navigation

of the Danube may conveniently be given here as, though this book is

addressed to those who are likely to visit the river as travellers

and pleasure-seekers, there may be some who are interested in such

details. “The result of all the combined works for the rectification

of the Danube is that from Sulina up to Braila the river is navigable

for sea-going vessels up to 4000 tons register, from Braila to Turnu

Severin it is open for sea-going vessels up to 600 tons, and for flat

barges of from 1500 to 2000 tons capacity. From Turnu Severin to Orsova

navigation is confined to river steamers, tugs and barges drawing six

feet of water. Thence to Vienna the draught is limited to five feet,

and from Vienna to Regensburg to a somewhat lower figure. Barges of 600

tons register can be towed from the lower Danube to Regensburg.”

The international body known as the European Commission of the Danube,

which has so splendidly justified itself, was called into existence by

the Treaty of Paris of 1856, and may thus be regarded as one of the

beneficent results of the Crimean War. The Commission was to consist

of delegates, one from each country, representing Austria, France,

Prussia, Russia, Sardinia and Turkey, their task being “to designate

and cause to be executed the works necessary below Isaccea to clear

the mouths of the Danube as well as the neighbouring parts of the sea,

from the sands and other impediments which obstructed them, in order to

put that part of the river and the said parts of the sea in the best

possible state for navigation.” Since the formation of the Commission

its sphere of influence has been extended up stream to Braila, and a

Rumanian representative has been added to the body. The Commission was

at first financed by loans, but by 1887 had cleared off all debts, and

has now an average annual income of about £80,000 for carrying on its

work.

Sulina is the termination of the Danube Steamship Company’s service,

which starts, as we saw, from distant Passau on the Austro-Bavarian

frontier. Thanks in no small measure to the Danube Commission, which

has its palatial offices and works here, the town has developed into

a first-class port. The great delta on which it is situated (about a

thousand square miles in extent) “mainly consists of one large marsh

covered with reeds, and intersected by channels, relieved in places by

isolated elevations covered with oak, beech and willows, many of them

marking the ancient coastline.”

Captain Spratt, R.N., in the course of a report on the mouths of the

Danube more than half a century ago, drew attention to a curious

periodical phenomenon, to which I have seen no reference by later

writers, possibly the clearing of the channels by dredging has made

it cease: “The river does not appear to be subject to very sudden or

frequent floods; but about every five or seven years the whole delta

becomes overflowed for a foot or more, generally in the month of May or

June, by a progressive rising of the waters on the melting of the snow

(called by the natives the _Plimera_), which obliges the inhabitants

of Yuzlin and the lower hamlets to quit their cottages for a time, and

retire to Besh-Tepeh and Tulcha; but the Russian guard-houses are never

deserted, the houses being more substantially built of wood, and raised

about two feet above the ground.”

So great is the deposit carried hither by the many mouths through

which the great river discharges itself into the Black Sea, that one

authority states that in thirty years the delta was extended in one

part by as much as two miles. Only about nine per cent. of the water

is discharged by that which has now been made the main navigable

channel, by far the greater portion--as much as sixty-seven per

cent.--going by way of the Kilia mouths, where in ordinary flood times

as much as three thousand cubic feet of mud and sand are poured into

the sea per minute. Such is the volume and force of the water poured

by the Danube into the Black Sea, that it is said to be “perceptible

at the distance of fifty miles from its mouths.” Dr. Edward Daniel

Clarke, in the voluminous account of his travels (1798-1802) recorded

that “having passed the Isle of Serpents, we fell in with the current

of the Danube. So great is the extent over which the waters diffuse

themselves, from the shallowness of the sea, that, although the

discharge is scarcely adequate to our notions of so considerable a

river, the effect is visible for several leagues by the white colour

communicated. Dipping buckets in the waves, we observed that the water

was almost sweet at the distance of three leagues from the mouth of the

river, and within one league it was perfectly fit for use on board.

The shore is very flat all the way from Odessa to the Danube, and so

low near the river’s mouth, that no other object appears to those who

approach the shore than tall reeds rising out of the water, or the

masts of vessels lying in the river.”

Dr. Clarke’s disappointment as to the “inadequate” mouth of the Danube

suggests that he did not realize that the sea coast--“nowhere two feet

above the sea”--of the delta between the Kilia and St. George’s mouths

is over fifty miles in length. His reference to the Isle of Serpents

suggests that, though more than twenty miles to the east of Sulina, the

story of that island, the shores of which are reached by its waters,

may fittingly form a termination to the story of the Danube.

The island is variously described (and in the same work) as being

“about one mile in circumference” and about one mile in length by

half a mile in breadth “surrounded for the most part by precipitous

cliffs, sixty to one hundred feet in height, with deep water near

them.” It is marked by a lighthouse, which was extinguished during

the Crimean War, and the relighting of which bid fair for a time to

lead to a renewal of hostilities after the treaty of peace had been

signed. Apparently the ownership of Serpent Island was not specified

in the treaty, for it is recorded that “with more than their usual

promptness” the Turks sent a small detachment of soldiers to the island

to relight the beacon. Shortly after, some Russians arrived with the

same object, and, it was recorded shortly after the event, “Admiral

Lord Lyons acts with decision, and prevents the Russians throwing in

a reinforcement. Questions are raised by Russian chicanery on the

operation of the Treaty with respect to the Isle of Serpents, and,

a place almost as obscure, the town of Bolgrad on the new frontier.

Insignificant in themselves, they are of paramount importance; the one

as almost commanding the principal entrance of the Danube, the other

its navigation. Russia persists in her claims. England, nearly deserted

by her allies, resolutely demands their cession to Turkey in fulfilment

of the Treaty. Her fleet reoccupies the Black Sea; she nails her ensign

to the mast, and is prepared, single-handed, to carry her point. It

is felt that she has the spirit and strength to do this; she alone

has come out of the war with unimpaired resources--rather, she has

only just gathered her strength. Russia recoils from a renewal of the

contest and capitulates. Fido-Nisi (Serpent Island) and Bolgrad are the

trophies of this bloodless triumph.”

The tiny island that thus, for a time, threatened to bring about war,

was anciently associated with one of the world’s war heroes, for it

was long known as Achilles’ Island, not only having on it a temple to

that hero, but being popularly believed to be the very residence of

the deified Achilles. It was also at one time known as Leuce, or the

White Island, on account, it is supposed, of the multitudes of white

seabirds that at certain seasons of the year more or less covered its

surface; and it is further mentioned by ancient writers as “the bright

island,” and by Euripides as the White Shore of Achilles. Arrian, the

pupil of Epictetus, wrote an account of a journey round the Euxine or

Black Sea for the Emperor Hadrian, in the course of which he said:

“Sailing out of that Ister [Danube] which is called Psilon, with the

wind from the north, the Island of Achilles appears.... It is related

that Thetis gave this island to Achilles, and that he still inhabits

it. His temple and statue, both of very ancient workmanship, are seen

there. No human being dwells there; it has only a few goats, which

mariners convey as votive offerings. Other offerings or sacred gifts

are suspended in honour of Achilles, such as vases, rings, and precious

gems. Inscriptions are also read there in the Greek and Latin tongues,

in different metres, in honour of Achilles, and Patroclus who also

is there worshipped.” The Greek historian goes on to refer to the

“innumerable” seabirds that he saw on the island, adding, “these birds

alone have the care of the shrine. Every morning they repair to the

sea, and, dipping their wings in the waves, sprinkle the temple, and

afterwards sweep with their plumage its sacred pavement.”

“Seen from afar, fair Leuce rears her crest;

Leuce the white, where souls of heroes rest.”

Seeing that the island was at one time regarded as the resort of the

spirits of dead heroes, it might be explained by Pythagoreans that

these spirits, in avine form, thus did honour to Achilles. Arrian

continued, “it is said, also, that Achilles has appeared, in time of

sleep, both to those who have approached the coast of this island, and

also to those who were sailing a short distance from it; instructing

them where the island was safely accessible, and where the ships might

best lie at anchor. They even say, further, that Achilles has appeared

to them, not in time of sleep or in a dream, but in a visible form, on

the mast or at the extremity of the yards, in the same manner as the

Dioscuri; and that, although the latter appear, evidently and clearly,

to persons who navigate the sea at large, and, when so seen, foretell

a prosperous voyage, the figure of Achilles is seen only by such as

approach the island.” The appearance of Achilles, was, there can be

little doubt, that of St. Elmo’s Fires--a lambent electrical discharge

at one time known as Castor and Pollux.

To turn from the record of an ancient traveller to that of a modern

one, Dr. Clarke, whom I have already quoted, gives the following

description: “At four o’clock in the morning we were called upon deck

by the captain to see the Isle of Serpents, anciently Leuce, lying off

the mouths of the Danube, celebrated in history for the tomb and temple

of Achilles. It is so small that, as we passed, we could view its whole

extent. Judging by the eye, it appeared to be near a mile in length and

less than half a mile in breadth. It is quite bare, being only covered

with a little grass and very low herbage. When carefully examined

through a telescope, there did not seem to be the smallest remains of

antiquity. I made a sketch of it from the south-east. On the south side

appear cliffs about fifty feet high.

“Many absurd stories of Turkish and Russian mariners are founded upon a

notion that the island is covered with serpents. An opportunity rarely

occurs whereon ships can lie to in order to visit it; and, if this

were to happen, not a man of any of their crews would venture on shore,

although there are twenty fathoms of water within a cable’s length of

the island, and any vessel may sail close to it. The Russians relate

that four persons belonging to the crew of a ship wrecked there no

sooner landed than they encountered a worse enemy than the sea, and

were all devoured by serpents. Ammianus Marcellinus records a similar

superstition as prevailing in his time concerning the dangers of the

place.”

Here we have an indication of the reason for the island’s name; and

though the legends of sailors being devoured by them are of course mere

legends, the existence of the serpents seems beyond question. Captain

Spratt, in his Admiralty survey of the mouths of the Danube, says “the

modern name of Fido-nisi or Serpent Island, has no doubt arisen from

the abundance of these reptiles upon the island; and they are still

very numerous, being veritable sea-serpents, or water-snakes, living

upon the fish in the sea, and inhabiting the cliffs on the coast. More

than twenty of them were seen coiled together under a shelving rock

that received the rays of a warm October sun; and many having fallen

into the wells and cisterns died there: the water in them is not now

drinkable, so that water for the Turkish troops is obliged to be

brought from the Danube. The serpents are jet black, except along the

belly. They have a small head, and are from four to five feet long,

and, although said to be harmless, are a very disagreeable-looking

species.”

A traveller on the lower Danube has recorded the number of fresh-water

snakes seen swimming along with their heads erect above the surface,

and it may be that the reptiles of Serpent Island were (perhaps are,

though I have found no recent reference to them) a colony of such that

found the water about their island still sufficiently fresh. The true

sea snakes are described by writers on natural history as only found in

Asiatic seas.

“Adieu the woods and water’s side,

Imperial Danube’s rich domain!

Adieu the grotto wild and wide,

The rocks abrupt and grassy plain.”

_Campbell_

FOOTNOTES:

[17] “The Danubian Principalities: the Frontier Lands of the Christian

and the Turk.” By a British Resident of Twenty Years in the East (1854).

[18] “The Danube and the Black Sea.” By Thomas Forester (1857).

[19] “Encyclopædia Britannica,” 11th Edition.

INDEX

Aach, the, 6

Abbach, 25, 26

Ada Kaleh, 259, 260, 262-5, 272

Addison, Joseph, quoted, 13

Aggsbach, 134

Aggstein, 135 _et seq._

Albert of Bavaria, 51 _et seq._

Albert of Saxony, Duke, 41

Albertus Magnus, 11, 42

Alföld, the, 222 _et seq._

Alfred the Great, 45

Alison, Sir Archibald, quoted, 12

Altmühl, the, 24

Andrews, John, 82

Angerbach, the, 67

Apátin, 230

Ardagger, 106-7

Arnsdorf, 140

Arpád, 206-7

Aschach, 87, 91-2, 105

Aschach Bach, the, 92

Aspern, 178

Attila, _see_ Etzel

Augustinian monasteries, 7

Aventinus, John, quoted, 116-17

Babakáj rock, the, 248 _et seq._

Bachna, the, 262, 269

Bad Kreuzen, 109

Balaton, Lake, 226, 229

Balkans, 244

Barges, Danube, 101

Batthány, Count Louis, 220

Bayerischer Wald, the, 49, 60, 62, 78

Báziás, 245-6

Beattie, William, 18, 22, 112, 115, 171, 212, 248

Bede, the Venerable, 45

Befreiungshalle, 23, 24, 33 note

Béla IV., 203, 207-9

Belgrade, 222, 236 _et seq._, 244

Beinheim, 15

Bell, Mr. Edward, quoted, 79

Benedictine monasteries, 6, 7, 16, 22, 27, 55, 64, 66, 132, 154

Bernauer, Agnes, 51 _et seq._

Bessarabia, 296

Beuron, 6, 7

Bezdán, 230

Bielach, the, 133

Bisamberg, the, 169, 172

Bismarck, Prince, 45 _et seq._

Black Forest, 3

Black Sea, 302 _et seq._

Blau, the, 8

Blenheim, Battle of, 9, 11

Blindheim, _see_ Blenheim

Blocksberg, _see_ Gellert Hill

Blomberg, Barbara, 35-6

Blondel, 145, 149

Bogen, 55, 56, 58-9, 66

Bogenberg, the, 54, 56-7

Böhmer Wald, 62, 75, 78

Braila, 295

Breg, the, 3, 4

Brenzkofer Berg, 7

Brigach, the, 3, 4, 5

Browning, Robert, quoted, 39

Bruno, Bishop, 117, 123

Buchenau, 93

Budapest, 191, 204 _et seq._

Bukarest, 289

Bussen, 7

Byron, Lord, 180, 295, 297

Calafat, 280, 282

Campbell, Thomas, quoted, 63-4, 307

Capistran, John, 232

Carpathian Mountains, 199

Carpathians, the Little, 185-7

Carpathians, the Southern, 247, 289

Cerna, the, 259

Charlemagne, Emperor, 61, 105, 122, 133, 161

Charles IV. of Bohemia, 41

Charles V., Emperor, 35

Childeric’s tomb, 34

Cistercian monasteries, 93, 124

Clarke, Edward Daniel, 302

Clark, William Tierney, 216

Coburg-Gotha, Princes of, 108

Conrad II., Emperor, 107

Constance, Lake, 6

Costantza (Kustendji), 293

Craco, Hun giant, 35

Cromwell’s skull, 19

Crown Chapel, the, 261

Crusaders on the Danube, 38, 60, 107

Csallóköz (Grosse Schütt) island, 195-6

Cynewulf, 280-1

Dacia, 243

Dályai, 231

Danube Commission, the, 297 _et seq._

Danube, colour of the, 27-8

Danube delta, 296 _et seq._, 301-2

Danube, source of the, 3 _et seq._

Danube steamers, 77, 81-2, 101, 111

D’Arco, Count, 15

D’Auvergne, La Tour, 17-18

Déak, Francis, 216

Deggendorf, 59-62

Deutsch-Altenburg, 181, 186

Dévény (Theben), 185-7

Devil’s Tower, 116-17, 123

Devil’s Wall, the, 138

Dibdin’s “Bibliographical Tour,” quoted, 103, 131, 154

Dillingen, 11

Dirndlbach, 86

Dobrudja, the, 293-4, 296

Dollinger, Hans, 35

Dömös, 200

Donaueschingen, 3, 4, 6

Donaumoos, 11, 17, 19

Donauriet, 11

Donaustauf, 40, 42

Donauwörth, 14, 16

Draculf, Bishop, 163

Draueck, _see_ Drávatorak

Drávatorak, 231

Drave, the, 222, 231, 235

Drey Kule, the, 255

Duck Castle, 6

Dunaföldvár, 226

Dupont, General, 152-3

Durrenstein, 142 _et seq._

Ebelsberg, 99, 100

Ebersberg, Count, 123

Ebrach, the Black Friar of, 26

Eck, Johann, 19

Efferding, 92-3

Egbert, King, 45

Ehingen, 8

Eining, 20

Elchingen, 10

Ellis, Sir Henry, quoted, 145

Emmersdorf, 133

Engelhartzell, 86

Enns, the, 105

Erd, 226

Erdöd, 231

Erlaf, the, 126

Essling, 178

Eszek, 227, 231

Esztergom (Gran), 195, 198-9

Etzel (Attila), 20, 59, 67, 126, 160, 182

Eugène, Prince, 12, 15, 186, 226-7, 234

Ewesheim, Frederick von, 42

Fadruoz, John, 191

Felbermann, Mr. Louis, 223

Ferdinand, King, 14

Fidinger, Stephen, 93

Fischerberg, 60

Francis Joseph, Emperor, 207-8

Fraunhofer, Joseph von, 54

Frederick III., Emperor, 95

Freudenstein, 93

Freyenstein, 122

Fridingen, 6

Froissart, 67

“Frontier Lands of the Christian and the Turk,” quoted, 81

Fruška Gora, the, 231, 234

Fürstenberg, Prince, 4

Galambócz (Golubacz), 248, 251-2

Galambócz Cavern, 252

Galatz, 82, 295

Gamelbert, 60-1

Garam, the, 199

Geissingen, 6

Gellert Hill, 204, 208, 211

Georgsberg, 76

Gibbon, Edward, 20, 38, 62, 67, 100, 181, 233, 275, 280, 283, 291

Giurgevo, 288-9

Godkin, E. L., 188, 200

Goethe, 43

Gold in the Danube, 163, 247

Golubacz, _see_ Galambócz

Gombos, 231

Gönyö, 195

Goor, Sieur, 15

Görgy, General, 197

Goths, migration of, 290-2

Gottweih, 144, 154

Gradiste, 247

Gran, _see_ Esztergom

Gran, the, _see_ Garam

Greben, the, 254-5

Greifenstein, 163 _et seq._

Grein, 107-8, 117-18, 129

Greinberg, 108

Greiner-schwall, the, 109, 119

Gross Maros, _see_ Nagy Maros

Gunzburg, 11

Gura-Jalomitza, 294

Gustavus Adolphus, 14, 17, 104

Gutenstein, 7

Györ (Raab), 195

Hadmar, the “Hound of Kuenring,” 137-8

Haichenbach, 88, 90

Hainburg, 181, 186

Hals, 77

Hardy, Mr. Thomas, quoted, 179

Hartley, Sir Charles, quoted, 278

Hausstein, 112, 115, 120

Hegau, the, 6

Heidenfels, 7

Heining, 70

Heinrichsburg, 25

Helka, Queen, 160-1

Hemans, Mrs., quoted, 149

Hemmauer, Æmilius, 55, 57

Hengersberg, 65

Hengist and Horsa, 45

Henriod, Major, 153

Henry II. of Germany, 25

Henry III., Emperor, 116-17

Henry VI., Emperor, 40

Henry the Proud, 40

Hercynian Forest, 3

Herkulesbad, _see_ Mehadia

Heron as “water maker,” 102

Hersova, 294

Hienheim, 20, 21, 24

Hildegartsburg, 69

Hirschenau, 122

Höchstäd, 11, 12

Hofkirchen, 66

Hohenfels, Conrad, 41-2

Hohenlinden, 63

Hohenzollern, Prince, 7

Hollenburg, 159

Höller, Burgomaster of Straubing, 54

Holstein, Duke Adolf von, 87

Homberg, 6

Horn, Count, 15

Hössgang, the, 111, 113

Hughes, Mr. C. E., quoted, 6

Hunyadi Janos, 209, 232, 236-8

Iller, the, 8

Ilok, _see_ Ujlak

Ilz, the, 57, 71, 75, 76, 77, 80

Ilzstad, 76

Immendingen, 6

Ingolstadt, 17, 19, 53

Inn, the, 67, 75, 76, 80, 242

Innstadt, 76, 77, 81

Iron Gate, the, 70, 82, 269 _et seq._, 289

Iron Gate, the Little, 254-5

Isaccea, 296

Isa, Danube water sprite, 85-6

Isar, the, 62-4

Isen, the, 63

Ismail, 296-7

Isperdorf, 122

Ister, ancient name of the Danube, 243

Jalomitza, the, 294

Jochenstein, the, 85-6

“Jodelen,” 82-3

John of Austria, Don, 35-6

Jókai, Maurus, 197-8, 245

Julian, Emperor, 100-1

Kahlenberg, the, 162, 169, 173-4

Kalocsa, 227

Kalvarienberg, the, 93, 94

Kamenitz, 232

Kapfelberg, 25

Karlowitz, Treaty of, 209, 235

Kasten, 85

Kazán, the, 255-6, 279, 276

Kelheim, 23, 24, 27

Kepler, John, 36, 96

Kilia, 296-7

Kilia branch of the Danube, 296, 302

Kinzing, 67-8

Kirnbergwald, the, 93

Kisfaludy, Charles, 223

Kis Körös, 227

Kladova, 274

Klapka, General, 197

Klein Aggsbach, 135

Kleine Mühlbach, the, 90

Klenze, Leo von, 44

Klosterberg, 80

Kloster-Metten, 60-1

Klosterneuberg, 169, 172

Kloster Wilhering, 93

Komárom (Komorn), 196-8

Korneuburg, 169

Körtvélyes, 195

Kossiak, 279

Kossuth, Louis, 220

Krämpelstein, 83-4

Krems, 109, 152, 156-8

Kreuzenstein, 168

Kriemhilda, 20, 78-80, 92, 126, 160, 182

Krotzka, 244

Kuenring, the Hound of, 137

Kustendji, _see_ Costantza

Kutusof, General, 152, 154

Ladislas IV., 189

Lamberg, Count, 217

Langenlebarn, 163

Lang-Enzersdorf, 172

Lászlóvár, 251

Lauingen, 11

Lechs, the, 17

Lechsend, 17

Leopold, Duke, 105

Leopold, Emperor, 162

Leopoldsberg, the, 170, 172-4

Lewis, Mr. H. R., 98

Linz, 36, 78, 88, 91, 93, 94 _et seq._, 99, 100

Lobau, 178 _et seq._

Lom-Palanka, 282-3

Longfellow, H. W., quoted, 32

Lorraine, Duke of, 161-2, 210

Louis, Duke of Bavaria, 58

Louis the Bearded, 53

Louis the Severe, Duke, 17

Ludmilla, Countess of Bogen, 58

Ludwig I. of Bavaria, 23, 35, 43, 44, 45

Ludwig Canal, the, 24, 27

Lutzingen, 11

Mack, General, 9, 10

Mansfield’s “Water Lily on the Danube,” 27, 90, 99

March, the, 182, 185

Marchfeld, the, 173, 178 _et seq._, 186, 189

Marchfeld, Battle of, 99

Marcus Aurelius, 182

Mariahilf, 6

Mariahilf (Passau), 71, 76, 77, 81

Maria-Taferl, pilgrimage church, 124 _et seq._

Maria Theresa, Empress, 66, 189, 190-1

Marie Antoinette, 5

Markets, Orsova, 260;

Pozsony, 191-2;

Ratisbon, 31-2

Marlborough, Duke of, 11, 12, 14, 19;

quoted, 14-16

Marbach, 86, 124, 126

Matthias Corvinus, 154-5, 157, 201

Mautern, 154

Mauthausen, 102, 105

Maximilian I., Emperor, 88

Maximilian Joseph, King, 70

Mazeppa, 295-6

Mehadia, 260

Mehring, 19

Meistersänger, 10

Meredith, George, quoted, 213-4

Milanovac, 254

Mœsia, 243, 290

Mohacs, 228 _et seq._

Möhringen, 6

Mölk, 130 _et seq._

Monk, the Black, 116

Moltenburg, Baron of, 15

Moltke, von, 45

Montagu, Lady M. W., 37, 211, 227, 231, 234, 241

Morava, the, 245

Moreau, General, 14

Mortagne, Sieur, 15

Mortier, Marshal, 152-3

Mühlheim, 6

Munderkirchen, 8

Munich, 62

Murat, Marshal, 154

Naab, the, 27

Nagy-Maros, 200

Nagytétény, 226

Napoleon, 9, 10, 29, 39, 95, 132, 152, 154-5, 178 _et seq._

Natternberg, the, 59, 60

Nebel, the, 11

Negotin, 280

Nesmühl, _see_ Nezmély

Neuberg, 17, 19

Neuhaus, 90

Neusatz, _see_ Ujvidek

Neustadt, 21

Nezmély (Nesmühl), 198

“Nibelungenlied,” 45, 161;

quoted, 20, 79, 127

Nicholas of Verdun, 172

Nicopoli, 283-6

Nieder-Altaich, 64-5, 66

Nieder Ranna, 86

Noricum, Roman province, 67, 242

Nszód, 227

Nussdorf, 172-3

Ober-Altaich, 55, 56, 58, 66

Oberhaimer, Lords of, 87

Oberhausen, 17, 18, 19

Ober Loiben, 153

Ober-Marchbal, 8

Ó-Moldova, 247

Ober Mühl, 90

Oberndorf, 26

Obernzell, 85

Öbling, 55

Odoacer, 67-8

Ogradena, 258

Oltenitza, 290

“Ordinari” boats, 82, 118

Orsova, 244, 247, 259, 260, 271

Ortenburg, Counts of, 66-7, 69

Osterhofen, 66, 69

Ostrovo, island, 245

Otho, Duke, 41-2

Ottensheim, 93

Ottokar of Bohemia, 181

Ovid in exile, 293

Palánka, 232

Pallandt, Major-General, 15

Pancsova, 244

Pannonia, 242

Pappenheim, Count, 92

Párkány, 199

Parminius, St., 55, 64

Passau, 27, 69, 71, 75 _et seq._, 88

Passau, Bishops of, 76, 78, 84, 86, 133

Passau Spell, the, 80

Passau, Treaty of, 76

Peasant’s Revolt, the, 91, 92, 100

Peck, the, 247

Pellina, 285

Persenbeug, 122-4

Peter’s Cavern, 7

Peter the Hermit, 233

Pétervárad (Peterwardein), 232-4

Petófi, Alexander, 224, 227

Petronell, 181

Pfennigberg, 99

Pfohren, 6

Pförring, 20, 78

Philip, Emperor, murdered, 26

Planché, J., 38, 79, 88, 112, 118, 128, 149, 162

Plattensee, 115

Plattling, 62

Pleinting, 68

Plevna, 282-3

Pöchlarn, 126

Pope, Alexander, quoted, 44

Porta, Baptista, 97

Pöstlingberg, the, 91, 93, 95

Poulter, Rev. B., 240

Pozsony, (Pressburg), 187 _et seq._

Premonstratensian monasteries, 8

Pressburg, _see_ Pozsony

Pritchard, Joseph, 82

Prüfening, 27

Pruth, the, 295-6

Quin, Michael Joseph, 247, 275, 279

Raab, _see_ Györ

Rabenfels, 7

Rabenstein, 110

Radujevac, 279, 280

Rain, 17

Rama, 245

Ranariedl, 86

Ranna Bach, the, 86

Rasova, 294

Ratisbon, 21, 24, 26, 27 _et seq._, 68, 82, 137

Ratisbon, Bishops of, 41, 50

Ratisbon bridge, legend of, 29-31

Rechtenstein, 8

Regen, the, 57

Regensburg, _see_ Ratisbon

Reidlingen, 7

Reni, 296

Reutlinger, Susanna, 96

Rhine, the, 6, 21, 88

Richard, Cœur de Lion, 39, 106, 142 _et seq._, 155, 163

Ried, 86

Riesbeck, quoted, 117

Roman road along the Danube, 256-8, 274

Roman stations on the Danube, 11, 20, 24, 38, 59, 66, 67, 69, 77, 78,

94, 95, 101, 105, 161, 181, 195, 198, 199, 206, 232, 274, 282, 292

Roman Wall, from the Danube to the Rhine, 20;

to the Tisza, 230;

to the Black Sea, 293

Roritzers, architects, 32

Rossatz, 144

Rüdeger of Pöchlarn, 126-8, 130

Rudolph I., Emperor, 99

Rudolph of Habsburg, 181, 189

Rustzuk, 287-8

St. Andreas, island, 203

St. Emmeram’s Abbey, 31, 34, 40, 41, 42

St. Florian, 106, 163

St. Florian’s Monastery, 103-4

St. George and the Dragon, 252

St. Georgen, 3, 4, 5

St. George’s branch of the Danube, 296

St. Gotthard, 64

St. Leopold, 169 _et seq._, 174

St. Luke at Enns, 106

St. Mark at Enns, 106

St. Maurice, 65

St. Michael, 140

St. Nikola, 118, 120

St. Ottilia, pilgrimage church, 107

St. Peter at Enns, 106

St. Stephen, 199

St. Stephen, Crown of, 189, 191, 207

St. Severinus, 67-8

St. Tuto, 40

Sandbach, 70

Sarmingbach, 122

Sarmingstein, 121

Saüssenstein, 124

Save, the, 67, 231, 235, 237, 242

Schiller, quoted, 104

Schlägen, 89

Schlägen, the, 87, 88, 89, 107, 109

Schmidt, General, 152-3

Schneeberg, the, 124

Schneiderschlössl, _see_ Krämpelstein

Schneckenburger, Max, 6

Schönbühel, 133-4

Schreckenwald, the robber, 135 _et seq._

Schwallenbach, 138

Semendria, 244-5

Semlin, _see_ Zimony

Sereth, the, 295

Serpents, Isle of, 302 _et seq._

Sigismund, King, 283-5

Sigmaringen, 7

Silistria, 292

Sirmium, 101

Sistov, 286

Skene, Miss F. M. F., 259, 273, 286-7, 293

Slankamen, 235

Smarda, 289

Sobieski, John, 161-2

Soliman, Sultan, 116

Somorja (Sommerein), 195

Somovit, 282-3

Sossau, 50, 56

Southey, Robert, quoted, 13-14

Spatt, peasant leader, 87

Spielberg Castle, 102-3

“Spirit of the Water,” the, 83

Spitz, 139, 140, 153

Spratt, Captain, 301, 306

Stadtamhof, 29, 40

Stauf, 92

Steamers on the Danube, 246

Stein, 152, 154, 155

Steyregg, 99

Stillenstein, the, 119

Stillenstein, Klamm, 119

Stockerau, 117

Strabo, 4

Straubing, 19, 43, 50 _et seq._, 56

Strauss’s “Blue Danube Waltz,” 27

Strudel, the, 89, 107, 108, 110 _et seq._, 117

Struden, 119, 120

Sturmberg, the, 76

Sulina, 82, 298, 301

Sulina Channel, 297, 299

Svinica, 254-5

Széchenyi, Count Stephen, 246-7, 275

Széchenyi road, the, 246, 253, 255

Symons, Mr. Arthur, quoted, 218-9

Szöny, 198

Tacitus, 4

Tallard, Marshal, 15

Tata, Lake, 198

Temes, the, 244

Temesvár, 244, 246

Teufelsfelsen, the, 25

Thalheim, 6

Theben, _see_ Dévény

Theiss, the, _see_ Tisza

Theodoric the Ostrogoth, 182

Thundorf, 64

Thungen, General, 15

Thurn and Taxis, Prince, 34, 50

Tilly, Count, 17, 19, 104-5

Tillysberg, 103-4

Timok, the, 279, 280

Tisza, 235

Tisza, the, 222, 230-1, 235

Tomi, 293

Tóváros, 198

Traisen, the, 160-1

Traisenmauer, 160

Trajan, Emperor, 258

Trajan’s Bridge, 275

Traun, the, 99, 100

Traundorf, 99

Trotter, Sir Henry, quoted, 299

Tulcea, 296-7

Tulln, 161-2, 175

Tullner Feld, the, 161, 168

Turenne, 18

Turn-Magurelle, 286

Turn Severin, 274, 277-9

Tuschl, Heinrich, 69

Tutrakan, 290

Tuttlingen, 6, 7

Ujlak (Ilok), 231

Ujvidek (Neusatz), 230, 232

Ulm, 6, 8 _et seq._

Und, 156

Unter Loiben, 153

Unter Mühl, 90

Unternbach, 60

Urfahr, 93, 95

Uttilo, Duke, 66

Utto, 61

Uttobrunn, 61

Vácz (Waitzen), 200, 203

Vág, the, 196

Vardar, the, 245

Verciorova, 262

Veterani Cavern, 256

Viechtenstein, 85

Vienna, 95, 132, 161, 168, 172 _et seq._

Villeroy, Marshal, 15

Vilshofen, 69, 70

Vineyards, 133, 139, 141, 155, 211, 231, 234

Vischnitz, 244

Visegrád, 200 _et seq._

Vohenburg, 19

Vukovár, 231

Wachau, the, 99, 100, 107, 128 _et seq._

_Wacht am Rhein_, 6

Wagner, Herr F., painter, 77

Wagner, Martin, sculptor, 44

Wagram, 178, 180

Waitzen, _see_ Vácz

Walhalla, 23, 33 note, 40, 42 _et seq._, 49

Wallsee, 106

Ward, Maria, 11

Wassenburg, Counts of, 85

Weber, Herr Carl Julius, 122

Weigl, Augustin, 129, 158

Weissenkirchen, 141

Weitenbach, 130

Weitenegg, 128, 129, 130-1, 133

Weltenburg, 22, 24

Werfenstein, 119

Wertz, the, 15

Wesenufer, 87

Wesselényi, Baron Nicholas, 215

Wetterkreutz, 159

Widdin, 101, 280, 282

Wiener Wald, 159, 161, 163, 173

Winzer, near Passau, 66

Winzer, near Ratisbon, 28

Wirbel, 89, 107, 108, 112 _et seq._

Wischelburg, 59

Wittelsbach, Otto of, 26

Wolkersdorf, 180

Wood, Major-General, 15

Wörth, 50

Wörth, island, 110, 119

Wotton, Sir Henry, quoted, 96-7

Würtemburg, 8

Ybbs, 124

Ybbs, the, 122, 124

Zeiselmauer, 163

Zimony (Semlin), 222, 235

Zweifaltendorf, 8

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Little Books on Art 19

Little Galleries 19

Little Guides 19

Little Library 20

Little Quarto Shakespeare 21

Miniature Library 21

New Library of Medicine 21

New Library of Music 22

Oxford Biographies 22

Romantic History 22

Handbooks of Theology 22

Westminster Commentaries 23

Fiction 23

Books for Boys and Girls 28

Novels of Alexandre Dumas 29

Methuen’s Sixpenny Books 29

FEBRUARY 1911

A SELECTION OF

MESSRS. METHUEN’S

PUBLICATIONS

In this Catalogue the order is according to authors. An asterisk

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Colonial Editions are published of all Messrs. METHUEN’S Novels issued

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and of the published price for ordinary books.

This Catalogue contains only a selection of the more important books

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=Addleshaw (Percy).= SIR PHILIP SIDNEY. Illustrated. _Second Edition.

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=Adeney (W. F.)=, M.A. See Bennett (W. H.).

=Ady (Cecilia M.).= A HISTORY OF MILAN UNDER THE SFORZA. Illustrated.

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=Aldis (Janet).= THE QUEEN OF LETTER WRITERS, MARQUISE DE SÉIVIGNÉ,

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=Allen (M.).= A HISTORY OF VERONA. Illustrated. _Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d.

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=Amherst (Lady).= A SKETCH OF EGYPTIAN HISTORY FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES

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=Andrewes (Amy G.).= THE STORY OF BAYARD. Edited by A. G. ANDREWES,

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=Andrewes (Bishop).= PRECES PRIVATAE. Translated and edited, with

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=Anon.= THE WESTMINSTER PROBLEMS BOOK. Prose and Verse. Compiled from

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VENICE AND HER TREASURES. Illustrated. _Round corners. Fcap. 8vo. 5s.

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A GLOSSARY OF TERMS USED IN ENGLISH ARCHITECTURE. Illustrated. _Second

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=Beckford (Peter).= THOUGHTS ON HUNTING. Edited by J. OTHO PAGET.

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