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https://www.gutenberg.org/files/58738/53738-h/53738-h.HTM
ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR.
VOL. I.
LONDON:
GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, PRINTERS,
ST. JOHN'S SQUARE.
[Illustration: Photographed from Life by LOCK AND WHITFIELD.]
ON HORSEBACK THROUGH
ASIA MINOR.
BY
CAPTAIN FRED BURNABY,
AUTHOR OF "A RIDE TO KHIVA."
WITH PORTRAIT AND MAPS.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.
London:
SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON,
CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET.
1877.
[All rights reserved.]
PREFACE.
It has been said that a man often writes his book first, his preface
last. The author of this work is no exception to the general rule.
These volumes contain an account of a journey on horseback through Asia
Minor. I was five months in that country, and traversed a district
extending over 2000 miles. My limited leave of absence prevented me
from staying more than a few days at the important towns which lay on
the route.
Although unable to learn so much as was to be desired of the ways
and mode of life of the various inhabitants of Anatolia, I had the
opportunity of talking to every class of society with reference to the
questions of the day—the Conference, and the impending war with Russia.
Pachas, farmers, peasants, all of them had something to say about these
subjects.
I met people of many different races: Turks, Armenians, Greeks,
Turkomans, Circassians, Kurds, and Persians. They almost invariably
received me very hospitably.
The remarks which were made by the Mohammedans about the Christians,
and by the Armenians about the Turks and Russians, sometimes interested
me. I have thought that they might interest the public.
The impression formed in my own mind as to the probable result of the
war between Russia and Turkey was decidedly unfavourable to the latter
power. Since this work has been written the soldiers of the Crescent
have gallantly withstood their foe. My reasons for arriving at the
above-mentioned opinion will be found in these volumes. They merely
contain a sort of verbal photograph—if the reader will allow me to use
the expression—of what I saw and heard during the journey.
A few official reports, referring to the treatment of the members of
the United Greek Christians by the Russian authorities will be seen in
the Appendices, and amongst other matter a document brought to England
by two Circassian Chiefs. It relates to the invasion of Circassia by
the Russians. There are also some march routes and descriptions of
various districts, taken and translated from different military works.
THE AUTHOR.
SOMERBY HALL, LEICESTERSHIRE,
September, 1877.
INTRODUCTION.
It was the autumn of 1876: I had not as yet determined where to spend
my winter leave of absence. There was a great deal of excitement in
England; the news of some terrible massacres in Bulgaria had thoroughly
aroused the public. The indignation against the perpetrators of these
awful crimes became still more violent, when it was remembered that
the Turkish Government had repudiated its loans, and that more than
a hundred millions sterling had gone for ever from the pockets of the
British tax-payer. This was very annoying.
We were on the eve of an important election.[1] Some people declared
that our Government might have prevented the massacres in Bulgaria;
others, that an ostentatious protection had been shown to Turkey, and
that Europe had been wantonly disturbed through the instrumentality of
our Ministry.
Illustrious statesmen, who were solacing themselves after the toils of
the session, by meandering through the rural districts on bicycles, or
by felling timber in sylvan groves, hurried up to town.
Two letters appeared in the columns of the leading journal signed by
gentlemen belonging to the Church of England, saying that they had seen
Christians impaled by the Turks.
Pamphlets were written and speeches made in which the subjects of the
Sultan were held up to universal execration. Several distinguished
Russians, who happened at that time to be in England, threw oil on the
flames which had been kindled.
Ladies, like Madame de Lievens, of whom the late Duke of Wellington
wrote,[2] went from _salon_ to _salon_ and extolled the Christian
motives of the Tzar. This feminine eloquence proved too much for a few
of our legislators, who, like Lord Grey in the year 1829, entertained
some old opposition opinions of Mr. Fox's, that "the Turks ought to be
driven out of Europe."
It was difficult to arrive at the truth amidst all the turmoil
which prevailed. Were the Turks such awful scoundrels? Had the
reverend gentlemen, to whom I have already alluded, really seen
Christians impaled, or were these clergymen under the influence of a
hallucination? There was one way to satisfy my own mind as to whether
the subjects of the Porte were so cruel as they had been described. I
determined to travel in Asia Minor; for there I should be with Turks
who are far removed from any European supervision. Should I not behold
Christians impaled and wriggling like worms on hooks in every high
road of Armenia, or find an Inquisition and a weekly _auto da fé_ the
amusement of the Mohammedans at Van?
Judging from the pamphlets which were continually being written about
the inhuman nature of the Turks, this was not at all improbable. I
should also have the opportunity of seeing something of the country
between the Russo-Turkish frontier and Scutari.
It was the beginning of November. My leave of absence would commence
towards the middle of the month. It was time to make preparations for
the journey. On this occasion I determined to take an English servant,
a faithful fellow, who had been with me in many parts of the world.
Before leaving London I thought that it might be as well to write to
the Turkish Ambassador, and ask him if there would be any objection on
the part of the authorities in Constantinople to my proposed journey in
Asia Minor, at the same time saying that in the event of my obtaining
the permission to travel in Anatolia, I should be much obliged to His
Excellency if he could supply me with the requisite passport. To this
letter I received, by return of post, the most courteous reply. I
was informed that every Englishman could travel where he liked in the
Turkish Empire, and that nothing was required but the ordinary foreign
office passport, one of which His Excellency enclosed.
In the meantime I read all the books I could find which treated of
Asia Minor. According to the works of those travellers who have been to
Armenia in the winter, the cold would be very great. Indeed Tournefort
found the wells in Erzeroum frozen over in July. Milner in his "History
of the Turkish Empire," remarks of the mountainous district in Armenia,
"Throughout this high region no one thinks, except under most urgent
necessity, of travelling for eight months in the year, owing to the
snow, ice, and intense cold."
Regimental duty detained me in England during the summer. I could
only avail myself of the winter for my journey. I had experienced
the cold of the Kirghiz steppes in December and January, 1876, and
was of opinion that the clothes which would keep a man alive in the
deserts of Tartary, would more than protect him against the climate of
Kurdistan. For shooting purposes I determined to take a little single
Express rifle, made by Henry, and a No. 12 smooth-bore. A small stock
of medicines was put in my saddle-bags in the event of any illness on
the road.
My arrangements were completed. I was ready to start.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
PAGE
The start—Cartridges and medicine bottles—The
obese Englishman and the Yankee's cook—The
refreshment-room at Dijon—"Ne vous pressez pas,
messieurs"—Fellow-passengers—The silk-merchant—The
pretty Greek girl who was a friend of Madame
Ignatieff—The doctor—The respective merits of medicine
and Christianity—The Bay of Smyrna—The Greek ladies
are not shy—Come along and smoke a Nargileh—A café in
Smyrna—The Italian prima donna—The Christians and Turks
in Smyrna—Newspapers believed to be in Russian pay—The
Pacha's seraglio—A comely dame—Five hundred recruits—A
doleful melody—To die for the sake of Islam—People so
silly as to think that Gortschakoff wishes for peace—The
fat woman—The eunuch in difficulties 1
CHAPTER II.
The Bosphorus—The commissionnaires—Nothing
like the Hôtel de Luxembourg—Perdrix aux
truffes—Baksheesh—Officials in the custom-house—A
rickety old carriage—A Turkish Café Chantant—A
vocalist—Sultan Abdul Aziz—His kismet—We are all
under the influence of destiny—"Great Sultan, rest in
peace!"—Did Sultan Abdul Aziz really kill himself?—The
popular belief—He had agreed to sell the fleet to
Russia—A Russian force to garrison Constantinople—Two
of the secret police—The other verse—The audience—Too
much liberty in Constantinople—English newspapers,
hostile to Turkey, sold at every bookstall—An English
army of occupation in Constantinople—No gold;
nothing but paper—Trade paralyzed—In search of a
servant—A Mohammedan servant; his costume—A coachman
to a Pacha—Buffaloes as a means of locomotion—Mr.
Schuyler—Mr. Gallenga—Our consul at Belgrade—Mr.
Sala—The stations along the Russian line crowded with
troops—Mr. McGahan very popular with the Christians—The
Turkish newspapers—A ruse on the part of England—An
English officer—A strategic position—Some influential
Armenians—"We have no wish to become Russian
subjects"—The Catholics in Poland—Similar treatment
required for all sects—The word of a Christian in a
court of law—An Armenian priest—From Scutari to Kars—The
road blocked by snow—The dread of being seen speaking to
a European 12
CHAPTER III.
The porter at the hotel—A little persuasive
force—Trains in Turkey are not very punctual—Two
Englishmen—Snipe-shooting—The railroad takes a
circuitous course—Krupp guns—The Christians are
too much for the Turks in a bargain—Hadem Kui—No
horse waiting—The station-master—A lanky, overgrown
lad—Buyuk Checkmedge and Kara Bournu—A branch railway
required—A station-master's salary—The horse—Attacked
by a dog—The defence of Constantinople—A song in
which the Turks delighted—Good-looking Hungarian
girls—The handsome Italian—"I am not a barrel"—The
song about the Turcos—Spontaneous combustion—A special
Correspondent—Algeria is not Turkey, but it does not
much signify 27
CHAPTER IV.
Osman—Five horses for sale—An industrious man—A
cemetery—A wall-eyed Turk—A little black—"He
ain't got no shoulders"—A horse with a sore back—A
roarer—The blind beggars hear him coming—A Turkish
horseshoe—Provisions for the journey—A prince belonging
to the Russian Embassy in the hospital—A prince a
boot-cleaner—Osman's relatives—The Hôtel Royal—A
stirrup-cup—Osman's religious scruples—The boat for
Scutari—Shipping our horses—Jealous husbands—A Turk's
seraglio—Was it a Torpedo?—The panels of the Bey's
carriage—An explosion of cartridges—Readjusting the
luggage—A torrent of expletives 39
CHAPTER V.
Scutari—The resting-place of departed Turks—A frightened
horse—Obadiah—Tea and sugar in the mud—A _rahvan_,
or ambler—A runaway steed—Osman always praying
whenever there is work to be done—The grave-digger—The
Hammall—Radford—Through the swamp—The Khan at Moltape—A
_mungo_ 54
CHAPTER VI.
The proprietor of the establishment—_Lingua
franca_—Gold, not paper—Gold a charm to the Greek—No
rooms—The Onbashee—His costume—The guard-house—A queer
place—"_At gitdi!_ the horse has gone!"—The Pacha
at Scutari—The corporal's demeanour when offered a
tip—A beautiful country—The bay of Ismid—A goose
plump as a Georgian woman—A Zaptieh—The chief of
the telegraph department in Ismid—A grievance—The
appearance of Ismid—Washing-day—The Pacha of Ismid—Mr.
Gladstone—"Gladstone is what you call a Liberal, is he
not?"—The Turkish debt—Russian agents bring about the
massacres of Christians 63
CHAPTER VII.
An Armenian Bishop—An economical
refreshment—Ramazan—Smoking in the streets—The Turkish
Government is not so bad—The Koran and a Christian
witness—A telegram from the Pacha at Scutari—A
post-horse to Sabanja—Two Zaptieh—Turkish swords—A
horse lost—Four feet of mud—An ox-cart upset in the
mud—Woe-begone drivers—A priest during the Carlist
war—Turks and Christians have an extreme dislike to the
dread ordeal—Circassian Bashi Bazouks—Women ravished and
then butchered by the Russians—Sabanja—Scenery—There was
to have been a railway—A mule under difficulties 75
CHAPTER VIII.
Camels—The Sakaria—Geiweh—Yakoob Khan—Kashgar—The
Greeks in league with the Tzar—The Kara Su—A strategic
position—Terekli—Bashi Bazouks firing at a target—The
river Goonook—A black slave—Gondokoro—Abou Saood—How
to become rich—Set a slave to catch a slave—_Sharab_
makes one gay—Mudurlu—Absence of shops—_Toujours
poulet_—English manufactures in Anatolia—A Circassian
Zaptieh—A precipice—A baggage-horse upset 86
CHAPTER IX.
Nalihan—Armenian, Turkish, and Circassian visitors—The
state of the roads—Will there be war?—The Imaum—The
Servians—A bellicose old farmer—The Armenians friends
with the Russians—Sunnites and Shiites—Scenery near
Nalihan—Alatai river—A Turkish counterpane—Turkish
beds—Osman's _Yorgan_—Osman's wife—A girl with eyes
like a hare, and plump as a turkey—The farmer's nuptial
couch—An uncultivated district—An old Khan—A refuge for
travellers—An invalid soldier—A Christian would have let
me die like a dog—The votaries of Christianity in the
East 95
CHAPTER X.
Radford and Osman—The quarrel—Do the Roossians
kiss each other?—Bei Bazar—The pig tobacco—Osman's
honesty—Forage for five horses—It is a good sign in
a horse to be always hungry—The Tchechmet river—The
Mudir at Istanos—The Cadi's mule—The tradition about
Istanos—Caverns formerly inhabited by marauders—A
chasm—The entrance to the caverns—A levee of the
inhabitants—No newspapers in the villages—An Armenian
priest—The furniture of the room—Has the Conference
commenced?—What is it all about?—Russia is strong and
we are weak—The other Powers are afraid of Russia—Will
England be our ally?—Are the Christians tortured?—Here
we get on very well with the Mussulmans—The pack-saddle 104
CHAPTER XI.
One lives and learns even from Turks—The Mudir's two
sons—They like your nation—They remember the Crimean
War—Suleiman Effendi—The Vice-Consul—The town of
Angora was to be illuminated—The telegram about the
Constitution—What does the Constitution mean?—Suleiman
Effendi on education, and on religious matters—So many
roads to heaven—American missionaries—The massacres in
Bulgaria—The intrigues of Russia—The Circassians hate
the Russians—Circassian women butchered and ravished by
the Russians—An English priest—The impalement story—The
Vice-Consul's wife—A piano in Angora—Turkish ladies—A
visit to the Pacha—The audience-room—The Pacha's
son—Only one cannon in Angora—Twenty-five thousand men
gone to the war—The clerk—The Bey's library—The new
Constitution—The Bey's opinion about it—Turkey requires
roads and railways—The only carriage in Angora 116
CHAPTER XII.
The Pacha's carriage—The coachman an Irishman—Christmas
day in Angora—The celebrities of the town—A society
of thieves—Fire in Sivrisa—The Turks and the
Armenians—So-called fanaticism—Ten Pachas in Angora
in four years—Cases of litigation—Arrears—The firman
of November, 1875—The famine in Angora—Deaths during
the famine—The goats died—A Mohammedan divine—The
Russian Ambassador and the secret societies—The English
newspapers and the Bulgarian atrocities—A Turk values
his nose quite as much as a Christian—Suleiman Effendi's
wife—The Turkish law about property—A dinner with a
Turkish gentleman—A mixture of nationalities—My host and
his digestion—Spirits refresh the stomach—The Prophet
and the old woman in Mecca—There are no old women in
heaven 129
CHAPTER XIII.
The band—Turkish melodies—Turkish music like a
Turkish dinner; it is a series of surprises—Turkish
etiquette at dinner—The pack-horse is lame—The people
ask for many liras—The Postmaster is in bed—The
chief of the police—Horse-copers in Aleppo—The
fair sex in that city—A test for lovers—We burn our
fingers soon enough after marriage—Domestic life in
the harems in Angora—The immorality in Yuzgat—Mr.
Gasparini—Turkish hospitality—Armenians dress like
Turks—Christian women—Great harmony between Turks and
Christians—Armenian testimony doubtful—The prison
at Sivas—Hearsay evidence—A Turkish veterinary
surgeon—Horse-dealers—Two pounds offered for the
horse—History of the Ottoman Empire—The Bey's
present—Generosity of the Turks—The devil is not so
black as he is painted 139
CHAPTER XIV.
Leave Angora—The Effendi wants a turkey—A very
old cock—The cooking-pot—An Armenian woman on
horseback—Baggage upset in the river—Cartridges in
the water—Osman castigating the delinquent—Delayed on
the road—Asra Yuzgat—How the inhabitants build their
houses—The Caimacan—His house—His servants undress
him—He goes to bed—All the cartridges spoiled 153
CHAPTER XV.
The Kizil Ermak—No bridge in the neighbourhood—How
to cross the river—The triangular-shaped barge—The
current—Can my brother swim?—How to embark the
horses—Osman's expostulation—Bandaging the horse's
eyes—Yakshagan—Fresh post-horses—An uncivil
official—Madeh—Silver-mines—Water in the pits—Proper
machinery wanted—Engineers required—Kowakoli—Vines—How
to preserve grapes—Sugar very dear—A farmer—The Angora
famine—The late Sultan—Russian assessors—We do not
wish to be tortured to change our religion—Allah is
always on the side of justice—Sekili—The pace of a
_Rahvan_—Marble hovels—Hospitality—Foreign settlers—A
Kurdish encampment—The tax-collectors—The wealth of the
Kurdish Sheiks—The Delidsche Ermak—Fording the river—A
district abounding in salt—Turkoman girls—The many
languages spoken in Anatolia—A lunch under difficulties 163
CHAPTER XVI.
A victim to the famine—Daili—A conversation with some
Turkomans—The massacre of the Teke Turkomans by the
Russians—Women violated—Little boys and girls abused
and murdered—The Muscovite is a beast—Should not you
like to cut the throats of all the Russians?—What
is the best way to get rid of a wasp's nest?—A war
of extermination—Yuzgat—A cavalcade of horsemen—Mr.
Vankovitch—The telegram—Our reception—Old friends of
the Crimea—Some visitors—Things have altered for the
better—The Christians at Yuzgat—Armenians and Turks
dine together—Mr. Vankovitch's experiences—The Polish
insurrection—General Muravieff—Brutality to the women at
Vilna 177
CHAPTER XVII.
M. Perrot—Armenian customs—Man and wife—We keep
our wives for ourselves—My host's niece—Law about
divorce—Shutting up the wives—Turkish husbands—How to
get a divorce—Marrying a divorced woman—Population of
Yuzgat—Crime—Mines in neighbourhood—Tax paid in lieu of
military service—The Circassians—Their promise to the
Turkish Government—Tax on land; on house-property; on
corn—Cattle—Collectors of taxes—Jealousy about religious
matters—Dissensions amongst Christians—American
Missionaries—A loyal address—The market—A bazaar two
stories high—A walk through the town—Gipsy women—An
elderly dame—Obstreperous young ladies—The old woman
dances 187
CHAPTER XVIII.
The Mosque—The interior of the building—The lamps
of different-coloured crystal—The Turks engaged
in prayer—Comparison between Christians and
Mussulmans—Daravish Bey—A wonderful shot—_Djerrid_—A
strange request—The chase—A Bosnian lady—Her costume—A
side-saddle—Even their women go out hunting—Daravish
Bey dressed for the chase—A long shot—The price of a
horse's forage—Most servants rob their masters—A Russian
officer—The Armenian schools—The girls' school—Perhaps
you would like to ask the boys some questions?—An
amateur setter of questions—Mr. Marillier of Harrow
school—A sum—The schoolboys of Yuzgat—A half-holiday 199
CHAPTER XIX.
A visit to some Greeks—The Turkish administration—The
impalement story—The law equally bad for Turks
and Christians—Peculiarity about the Armenians and
Greeks in Yuzgat—The outskirts of the town—An immense
crowd—Women clad in long white sheets—Throwing the
Djerrid—The game—We rode better in our time—A marriage
procession—Women riding donkeys—The head of the
Mohammedan religion at Yuzgat—The respective merits
of the Turkish and Christian faith—Allah is very kind
to all true believers—What is the good of insuring?—An
Armenian church—A raised platform enclosed by trellis
work—The occupants of the gallery—The women will
stare at the men—Ladies distract the attention of the
congregation—The Pole's house—A cheap servant 211
CHAPTER XX.
The gipsies—A fearful instrument—The musicians—The
dancers—The chief of the gipsy women—Her
attire—Vankovitch's wife—A glass of raki—The fat
woman—The man with the bagpipes—The dance—The two
girls—The old lady accompanies them—The castanets—What
is the good of dancing?—The Lord Chamberlain, who
is he?—The marriage festivals in a harem—The old
woman dances a _pas seul_—Osman's interview with
Vankovitch—Oh, Osman! thou descendant of a line of
thieves!—What is the meaning of this?—The Effendi's
horses—The people at the Khans—An undulating
country—Mostaphas—Unwillingness to fight their country's
battles—Several inhabitants killed in Servia—Industrious
insects—A country like the Saxon Switzerland—A district
abounding with pine forests—The telegraph wire to
Sivas—Saw-mills—Gogderi Soo—A house with two rooms—The
stable—The fire—The harem—My host and his wives—Two
shots in the air—The ladies—Their legs—The discomfort of
the proprietor 220
CHAPTER XXI.
Sileh Zela—Its position—The old citadel—The soil in the
neighbourhood—A battalion of infantry—The Caimacan—The
audience-chamber—The Cadi—The battalion going to
Samsoun—The local authorities—The Colonel—England
would be neutral—What, desert her old friend of the
Crimea?—An ally in Austria—Andrassy—An Imaum—Propensity
for fighting—A Christian Bishop—The most welcome members
of society—Yakoob Khan of Kashgar—The Russians and
the Chinese—The Khivans, Bokharians, and Turkomans—A
rising of the Poles—The Armenians in Sileh—The ancient
city—A secret passage—My tea and sugar—Osman had a
sweet tooth—My lord's liberality praised—Osman to kneel
on his own coat—Tartars—Lazy husbands—A plain planted
with tobacco—Mountains covered with vines—Many-coloured
sand-hills—A wonderful phenomenon—Bazar—Pacha
Williams—Teesdale—Kars—Is Pacha Williams still alive? 231
CHAPTER XXII.
Tokat—The Caimacan of the town—The battalion is to
march to Samsoun—A naturalized Englishman—The road
from Tokat to Sivas—The population of Tokat—The rich
inhabitants bribe the gendarmes—The want of funds—The
officials' salaries in arrear—Armenian schools in
Tokat—The Greeks; not much reliance to be placed upon
them—Khiva—Tashkent—Samarcand—Mussulmans in India—The
Black Sea and the Russian Fleet—Old soldiers in
Tokat—The Armenians and Greeks to be supplied with
fire-arms—Good governors—Osman Bey—A Circassian
on Russian atrocities—A statement by the Russian
authorities—Seven hundred families near Labinsky—Men,
women, and children at the breast butchered—English
sympathizers with Russia—The Russians sow the seeds of
dissension amongst the Circassians—Yonn Bek—Many gold
imperials offered to him 242
CHAPTER XXIII.
The servant of the house—The Onbashee—Five
piastres—Osman detected—The guilty man—Vankovitch's
remarks—The sentence—May I put Osman in prison?—The
barracks—Two old Khans—The women weeping—Immense
enthusiasm—Numbers of volunteers—Parading for the
march—Men crying—We shall eat the Russians—The
Sergeant—The Major of the battalion—The Dervish—A
Circassian—The Imaum of the regiment—The
Muleteer—Baggage animals required for the regiment—A
bitter cry—The women's wail—The old Major—The soldiers'
hymn—The standard of the battalion—Go in safety—God be
with you! 253
CHAPTER XXIV.
Osman Bey—A Circassian feud—Will there be a rising in
the Caucasus?—If England were to help us—A wonderful
servant—Mohammed—His Captain—An Armenian doctor—Business
is flat—The Christian population to be armed—Visitors
asking favours—Your reward will be in heaven—A
subscription—Promotion through favouritism—A sad story—A
cruel father—A servant arrested for debt—Failure of
justice 264
CHAPTER XXV.
Mohammed's horse—The Effendi's barley—The road from
Tokat to Sivas—A very pretty girl—Tchiflik—Complaints
made against the Circassians—Highly cultivated soil—The
Tchamlay Bel mountain—A Turk killed—A wonderful
gun—Yenihan—The Yeldez Ermak—The Kizil Ermak—Sivas—A
ruined citadel—The importance of Sivas from a military
point of view—My entry into Sivas—The guard—An Italian
engineer—Three American missionaries—A house pillaged 275
CHAPTER XXVI.
The prison in Sivas—Christian prisoners—The gaoler—Kurds
and Circassians—A few Armenians—False statement made
to me by Christians—The old murderer—The firman for
his execution—Kept in suspense—Our Governor dislikes
shedding blood—Issek Pacha—He may die—His residence—The
law in Turkey about murder—Mercenary dealings—Lax
justice 284
CHAPTER XXVII.
The Governor calls—A great honour—The Khedive's
treasurer—The Pacha's carriage—The Turks and
Christians—The Russian Government—The Armenian
subjects of the Porte—The seeds of disaffection—General
Ignatieff—The treasurer—The Italian lady—Erzingan—The
Governor's invitation—The cold in the country—The
Pacha was nearly frozen to death—His march from
Kars to Erzeroum—Deep chasms along the track—The
Conference is over—The Missionaries' home—American
hospitality—The ladies—A Turkish woman in the streets
of New York—A Chinese lad—New Orleans—The Anglo-Indian
telegraph—The Franco-German War—The potato plant—The
Armenians more deceitful than the Turks—The converts to
Protestantism—The Tzar's Government does not tolerate
any religion save its own—The superstitions attached to
the Greek faith 295
CHAPTER XXVIII.
An Armenian Monastery—A large garden—Farms belonging to
the Monks—The Bishop—A fast day—The Turkish finance—The
Armenian merchants in Sivas—The telegraph employed
by them—The rise and fall in _caime_—The breath of
scandal—A former Governor of Sivas—A suspicious case—His
Eminence cannot marry—Are Protestant Bishops allowed
to marry?—The chapels belonging to the Monastery—A
curious altar—A strange tradition—The martyrs of Sivas—A
picture of one of the Kings of Armenia—The Kings and
the Church—Things are very different now—Privileges
of the Monks—The Russian war with Persia—An Armenian
General—Hassan, Khan of Persia—Sugar—How to make a large
fortune 307
CHAPTER XXIX.
The principal mosque—An ostrich egg—Curious custom—The
dancing dervishes—A regiment of cavalry leaves Sivas—The
arms of the men—Appearance of the horses—A short
route to Erzeroum—Dudusa—The Kizil Ermak—Scenery—Glass
replaced by alabaster—A raid on an Armenian village—The
robbers caught—Women said to have been outraged—Kotnu—An
accident—The Zaptiehs out of temper—Mohammed's
appetite—A comparison between Mohammed and Osman 316
CHAPTER XXX.
Snow—The path covered by it—The scenery—Upset in a
snowdrift—Nearly down a chasm—Probing the ground—A
consultation—Teaching my followers manners—May he die
of the plague—A baggage-horse knocked up—Yarbasan—A
dirty village—The farmer committing himself to
Providence—Visiting his friends—The Zaptiehs—Their
remarks—The Giaour threatened to beat us—The Inglis
giaour is different to the Armenian giaour 325
CHAPTER XXXI.
The river Dumrudja—How to cross the river?—A waterfall
in the neighbourhood—Thanksgivings—Crossing the
mountain—A house of refuge—Divriki—Its appearance—The
number of houses—The river Tchalt Tchai—The Captain—His
evolutions—Lor! what a cropper—Serve him right,
sir—A Astley's performance—My host—Mines in the
neighbourhood—People with brains—Houses formerly built
of hewn stone—Cause of the decline of the Turkish
power—Wives chosen for their looks—How to breed a
good foal—A Turk's opinion of European women—They
uncover their faces—What ridiculous creatures they must
be—The Citadel—The Persians—The Greek fire—The view of
Divriki—Sport—A rifle used as a shot gun—One of your
best shots—The Kurds—Gunpowder—It is manufactured by
the Kurds—All Powder is sent from Constantinople—Cost
to the Government of cartridges—The Pacha of Sivas—His
astrologer—Christians who are usurers—Turkish families
ruined 333
CHAPTER XXXII.
Usury laws in Turkey—An Armenian in prison for debt—The
Caimacan—The Turkish creditor—Hanistan Ereek's father—A
Government cannot be imprisoned for debt—The redif
soldiers—Their unwillingness to serve—The Armenians
not to be trusted—Yanoot—A picture of desolation—A
Jordan road—Turkish soldiers do not grumble—Arabkir—A
silk-merchant—My host—His library—Pretty covers—A
Russian servant—He was taken prisoner during the Crimean
war 344
[Illustration: A MAP OF CAPT. BURNABY'S ROUTE
Stanford's Geogl. Estabt., Charing Cross.
London: Sampson Low, Marston, Searle & Rivington.]
ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR.
CHAPTER I.
The start—Cartridges and medicine bottles—The obese
Englishman and the Yankee's cook—The refreshment-room at
Dijon—"Ne vous pressez pas, messieurs"—Fellow-passengers—The
silk-merchant—The pretty Greek girl who was a friend of
Madame Ignatieff—The doctor—The respective merits of
medicine and Christianity—The bay of Smyrna—The Greek
ladies are not shy—Come along and smoke a Nargileh—A café in
Smyrna—The Italian prima donna—The Christians and Turks in
Smyrna—Newspapers believed to be in Russian pay—The Pacha's
seraglio—A comely dame—Five hundred recruits—A doleful
melody—To die for the sake of Islam—People so silly as to
think that Gortschakoff wishes for peace—The fat woman—The
eunuch in difficulties.
"Be quick, sir; you have no time to lose!" cried an officious porter
in the Charing Cross Station, as he bustled me into a first-class
carriage; and I found myself in the same compartment with a Queen's
messenger bound for St. Petersburg. Time fled rapidly by, and I had
hardly realized to myself that London was left behind, ere I was
walking down those very uncomfortable steps which lead to the Calais
boat. A rough passage with a number of Gauls, who all talked loud
at starting, but whose conversation gradually died away in mournful
strains, and we steamed into Calais harbour; five hours later I was
having my luggage examined in the waiting-room in Paris.
"Sir, they ain't found the cartridges, for I took good care to mix them
up with the medicine bottles," whispered my servant Radford, as he
mounted the box of our fiacre, and I drove away to a hotel, somewhat
relieved in my mind, as I was not quite sure whether carrying loaded
cartridges is permitted on the Chemin de Fer du Nord. I did not remain
long in Paris. The 2000 miles ride which lay before me across Asia
Minor would take up every day of my leave. There was no time to lose,
and in a very few hours I was in a railway station taking tickets for
Marseilles. The night mail was just about to start. There were none but
first-class carriages. The result was that servants and masters had to
travel together.
"You will sit in that carriage," said an obese and rubicund
Englishman to his groom, pointing to my compartment; "I cannot go with
servants;"—and he entered another carriage. Farther on I saw the portly
personage in the refreshment-room at Dijon. He was talking to a little
Frenchman, and apparently on the best of terms with him. The sound of
their voices was mingled with the jingling of glasses and the clinking
of knives and forks. Every one was eating as fast as he could. The
waiters were serving the different travellers with lightning rapidity,
and the proprietor of the buffet was calling out from time to time in
a deep bass voice,—
"Ne vous pressez pas, messieurs. Il y a encore 10 minutes avant le
départ du train."
"Who is the little man?" I inquired of a talkative Yankee who was
sitting by my side during the _table d'hôte_.
"He, sir? He is my cook, and I am taking him with me to Nice."
The obese Englishman heard the remark, and became more rubicund than
before.
"I reckon I have collapsed him," muttered the American. "If I have to
travel with his darned servant, I don't see why he should not travel
with mine."
The train rattled on. Each man in our crowded compartment tried to
compose himself to sleep; the red light from the American's cigar
gradually died away, and the individual himself, coolly lolling his
head on his neighbour's shoulder, sank into semi-unconsciousness.
The morn broke bright and glorious. Winter was left behind; we were in
the land of orange-trees and olives.
The steamer for Constantinople started at four o'clock that afternoon,
so we drove straight from the station in Marseilles to the harbour.
Here I found a splendid vessel belonging to Les Messageries Maritimes,
and which was already getting up steam. The captain was bustling about,
giving orders. The crew were hauling in the ponderous anchors.
There were not many passengers on board; only a silk merchant from
Lyons, a rabid republican, and a pretty Greek girl,—a friend of Madame
Ignatieff, the wife of the Russian ambassador at Constantinople,—who,
after paying a visit to some friends in Paris, was again on her way
to Constantinople. Our vessel was soon steaming ahead. She ploughed
her way splendidly through the waters, and hardly a motion could be
perceived inside the spacious saloon which formed the dining-room
of the passengers. We were but a small party. The captain, a cheery
tar who had been in every part of the world, and knew more stories
about the unguardedness of the fair sex than perhaps any other mortal
living. The doctor, a somewhat bilious and elderly gentleman, who
became easily excited on all religious questions, and gave short
dissertations between the courses on the respective merits of medicine
and Christianity. The silk-merchant, who cursed the empire, and
then informed us that trade had never been so flourishing as under
Napoleon's rule. Presently he told me in a whisper that some Frenchmen
wished for another Emperor, and he concluded, with an oath, that if
there were, he would head a revolution and sacrifice his own life—yes,
his own life!—sooner than that the Prince Imperial should sit upon the
throne of France.
We steam into the bay of Smyrna; the picturesque and undulating coast
is shaded in a framework of azure clouds; the sea, blue as lapis
lazuli, is dotted with numerous vessels; flags of almost every nation
in the world float in the balmy air; the clean white houses, with their
many-coloured wooden shutters, brighten up the glorious landscape; and
boatmen, dressed in garbs of many hues and fashions, throng the sides
of our vessel.
"I am going on shore," said the silk-merchant, who was surrounded by
a crowd of vociferous Greeks. "Our steamer will not start for several
hours. Let us dine in a café, and see if the fair sex in this part of
Turkey is as beautiful as some travellers would have us believe."
I accepted his proposal, and we walked through the streets of Smyrna.
The town, clean as it looked from the harbour, proved to be a hideous
deception. The streets were narrow and dirty, and the odour which
everywhere met our olfactory nerves, was strongly suggestive of typhus.
Women were seated in the _patios_ or open courts of the houses, and
the Greek ladies in Smyrna are evidently not shy. They boldly returned
the inquisitive glances of my companion and myself, and appeared rather
pleased than otherwise at our curiosity.
"Well, I can't say much for their beauty," observed my companion. "They
have good eyes and hair, but all of them look as if they had not washed
their faces for at least a fortnight. Come along and smoke a Nargileh.
If there is one thing I love, it is a Nargileh, and when I am inhaling
the tobacco I imagine myself to be a Pacha surrounded by my seraglio."
We turned into a café; it was surrounded by a large garden. Some Greek
merchants were playing at dominoes; an Italian prima donna, who might
have been any age from seventy to a hundred, was singing a popular
air; men with game and fish for sale walked up and down, regardless
of interrupting the ancient vocalist, and offered their wares to the
visitors. Presently my companion moved uneasily in his chair; some
drops of perspiration stood on his forehead, and his face was becoming
rapidly green under the influence of the Turkish Nargileh.
"I think I have had enough," he remarked. "The room is very hot. _Au
revoir._" And he returned to our vessel.
In the meantime I proceeded to call upon a friend in the town. This
gentleman informed me that the Christians and Turks in Smyrna were on
the best of terms; however, he added that certain papers, believed to
be in Russian pay, were constantly announcing that there would shortly
be a massacre of the Christians; it was said that this was done to
excite bad blood between the two sects.
The shrill sound of the steamer's whistle announced that she was
getting up steam. Hastily retracing my steps, I arrived on board just
as the crew were weighing anchor. The original number of passengers
had by this time received a considerable addition. Greeks, Armenians,
and Turks were walking about or lying stretched along the deck. Women
and children were huddled up in close proximity with the men. A Babel
of different languages was going on around me, and an old Greek woman
was having an animated squabble with one of the ship's officers, the
subject of discussion being as to whether the ancient female had paid
the proper fare. The French officer could speak but little Greek,
and the shrill-voiced dame no French; in consequence of this it was
difficult for them to arrive at any satisfactory solution of the
matter.
A Pacha, his son, and the chief of the telegraphs, were the only
first-class passengers. However, four ladies, the Pacha's seraglio, had
been accommodated on the deck; they were reclining on some cushions
in close juxtaposition with their attendant—a negro. The voice of
this sable gentleman was pitched in a feminine key, and he was busily
engaged in arranging some pillows beneath the stoutest of the ladies—a
comely dame who would have turned the scale at probably sixteen
stone. Two pointer dogs in a large hamper, which was directed to a
Bey in Constantinople, added their barking to the general clamour, and
some horses, bound to Stamboul, were fastened by head-collars to the
bulwarks, no horse-boxes being provided. Farther on, and towards the
steerage end of the vessel, were 500 recruits, on their way to Servia,
and in high spirits at the idea of shortly encountering the Russians.
It was a lovely evening, and I walked along the deck with the captain,
gazing curiously at his motley passengers. The stars shone bright, as
became an Eastern clime; a gradually freshening breeze for the moment
had cleared the horizon.
"We shall have an easy passage," I remarked.
"Yes, for good sailors," was the reply; "but it will be a little rough
for those poor women,"—pointing to the pacha's harem—"and for the
half-clad recruits yonder."
The latter did not seem to anticipate the treat that was in store
for them. They were scattered in groups about the deck, many of them
squatting upon their haunches, and attired for the most part in rags
and many-coloured patchwork.
Presently a doleful melody was heard; the dirge which reached our ears
told us of the readiness of these embryo warriors to meet the foe and
die for the sake of Islam.
"They will die quite soon enough," remarked the captain drily, as the
last verse died away. "Look down there," he added, pointing to the
ship's hold; "our vessel is laden with 300 tons of lead, and once a
week for several months past the steamers belonging to the Messageries
Maritimes have been freighted with a similar cargo. This is all going
to Odessa. It will be odd if some of the lead does not soon find its
way back to the true believers, in the shape of bullets."
"The Russian Government is putting itself to great expense," he
continued; "however, there are people so silly as to think that
Gortschakoff wishes for peace; and in spite of all his preparations
they actually believe in the Conference!"
The captain now left me, but I remained on deck. The freshening gale
gradually imparted an oscillating movement to our steamer. The rain
fell in large drops. Some of the sailors covered the ladies of the
harem with an awning. The horses began to kick, and the dogs in the
hamper to bark. A melancholy groan could be heard from that part of
the vessel appropriated by the soldiers. The first to succumb was
the fat woman; in despairing tones she called for assistance. The
black attendant rushed to the rescue and convulsively grasped the
lady's head. It was a funny spectacle—that enormous pumpkin-shaped
face supported by two black hands. The now hazy moon cast a shadowy
beam on the negro's countenance: from black it changed to green;
it assumed a diabolical expression. The vessel lurched; he lost his
balance; dropping his mistress's head, he fell down upon the pointers.
They set up a savage growl. The eunuch started to his feet; his hair
bristled with alarm; he felt himself all over. However, there was no
damage done, and with a sorrowful mien he returned to the side of his
mistress.