LETTER XVII.

Rural Drives.--French Peasantry.--View of Montmartre.--The Boulevards.

--The Abattoirs.--Search for Lodgings.--A queer Breakfast.--Royal

Progresses and Magnificence.--French Carriages and Horses.--Modes of

Conveyance.--Drunkenness.--French Criminal Justice.--Marvellous Stories

of the Police.

To CAPT. M. PERRY, U.S.N.

I am often in the saddle since our removal to St. Ouen. I first

commenced the business of exploring in the cabriolet, with my wife for a

companion, during which time, several very pretty drives, of whose

existence one journeying along the great roads would form no idea, were

discovered. At last, as these became exhausted, I mounted, and pricked

into the fields. The result has been a better knowledge of the details

of ordinary rural life, in this country, than a stranger would get by a

residence, after the ordinary fashion, of years.

I found the vast plain intersected by roads as intricate as the veins of

the human body. The comparison is not unapt, by the way, and may be even

carried out much further; for the _grandes routes_ can be compared to

the arteries, the _chemins vicinaux_, or cross-roads, to the veins, and

the innumerable paths that intersect the fields, in all directions, to

the more minute blood-vessels, circulation being the object common to

all.

I mount my horse and gallop into the fields at random, merely taking

care not to quit the paths. By the latter, one can go in almost any

direction; and as they are very winding there is a certain pleasure in

following their sinuosities, doubtful whither they tend. Much of the

plain is in vegetables, for the use of Paris; though there is

occasionally a vineyard, or a field of grain. The weather has become

settled and autumnal, and is equally without the chilling moisture of

the winter, or the fickleness of the spring. The kind-hearted peasants

see me pass among them without distrust, and my salutations are answered

with cheerfulness and civility. Even at this trifling distance from the

capital, I miss the brusque ferocity that is so apt to characterise the

deportment of its lower classes, who are truly the people that Voltaire

has described as "ou singes, ou tigres." Nothing, I think, strikes an

American more than the marked difference between the town and country of

France. With us, the towns are less town-like, and the country less

country-like, than is usually the case. Our towns are provincial from

the want of tone that can only be acquired by time, while it is a fault

with our country to wish to imitate the towns. I now allude to habits

only, for nature at home, owing to the great abundance of wood, is more

strikingly rural than in any other country I know. The inhabitant of

Paris can quit his own door in the centre of the place, and after

walking an hour he finds himself truly in the country, both as to the

air of external objects, and as to the manners of the people. The

influence of the capital doubtless has some little effect on the latter,

but not enough to raise them above the ordinary rusticity, for the

French peasants are as rustic in their appearance and habits as the

upper classes are refined.

One of my rides is through the plain that lies between St. Ouen and

Montmartre, ascending the latter by its rear to the windmills that,

night and day, are whirling their ragged arms over the capital of

France. Thence I descend into the town by the carriage road. A view from

this height is like a glimpse into the pages of history; for every foot

of land that it commands, and more than half the artificial accessories,

are pregnant of the past. Looking down into the fissures between the

houses, men appear the mites they are; and one gets to have a

philosophical indifference to human vanities by obtaining these

bird's-eye views of them in the mass. It was a happy thought that first

suggested the summits of mountains for religious contemplation; nor do I

think the father of evil discovered his usual sagacity when he resorted

to such a place for the purposes of selfish temptation: perhaps,

however, it would be better to say, he betrayed the grovelling

propensities of his own nature. The cathedral of Notre Dame should have

been reared on this noble and isolated height, that the airs of heaven

might whisper through its fane, breathing the chaunts in honour of God.

Dismounting manfully, I have lately undertaken a far more serious

enterprise--that of making the entire circuit of Paris on foot. My

companion was our old friend Captain ----. We met by appointment at

eleven o'clock, just without the Barrière de Clichy, and ordering the

carriage to come for us at five, off we started, taking the direction of

the eastern side of the town. You probably know that what are commonly

called the _boulevards_ of Paris, are no more than a circular line of

wide streets through the very heart of the place, which obtain their

common appellation from the fact that they occupy the sites of the

ancient walls. Thus the street within this circuit is called by its

name, whatever it may happen to be, and if continued without the

circuit, the term of _faubourg_ or suburb is added; as in the case of

the Rue St. Honoré and the Rue du Faubourg St. Honoré, the latter being

strictly a continuation of the former, but lying without the site of the

ancient walls. As the town has increased, it has been found necessary to

enlarge its _enceinte_, and the walls are now encircled with wide

avenues that are called the outer _boulevards_. There are avenues within

and without the walls, and immediately beneath them; and in many places

both are planted. Our route was on the exterior.

We began the march in good spirits, and by twelve we had handsomely done

our four miles and a half. Of course we passed the different

_barrières_, and the gate of Père Lachaise. The captain commenced with

great vigour, and for near two hours, as he expressed himself, he had me

a little on his lee quarter; not more, however, he thought, than was due

to his superior rank, for he had once been my senior as a midshipman. At

the Barrière du Trône we were compelled to diverge a little from the

wall, in order to get across the river by the Pont d'Austerlitz. By this

time I had ranged up abeam of the commodore, and I proposed that we

should follow the river up as far as the wall again, in order to do our

work honestly; but to this he objected that he had no wish to puzzle

himself with spherical trigonometry; that plane sailing was his humour

at the moment; and that he had, moreover, just discovered that one of

his boots pinched his foot. Accordingly we proceeded straight from the

bridge, not meeting the wall again until we were beyond the _abattoir_.

These _abattoirs_ are slaughter-houses, that Napoleon caused to be built

near the walls, in some places within, and in others without them,

according to the different localities. There are five or six of them,

that of Montmartre being the most considerable. They are kept in

excellent order, and the regulations respecting them appear to be

generally good. The butchers sell their meats, in shops, all over the

town, a general custom in Europe, and one that has more advantages than

disadvantages, as it enables the inhabitant to order a meal at any

moment. This independence in the mode of living distinguishes all the

large towns of this part of the world from our own; for I greatly

question if there be any civilized people among whom the individual is

as much obliged to consult the habits and tastes of _all_, in gratifying

his own, as in free and independent America. A part of this

uncomfortable feature in our domestic economy is no doubt the result of

circumstances unavoidably connected with the condition of a young

country; but a great deal is to be ascribed to the practice of referring

everything to the public, and not a little to those religious sects who

extended their supervision to all the affairs of life, that had a chief

concern in settling the country, and who have entailed so much that is

inconvenient and ungraceful (I might almost say, in some instances,

_disgraceful_) on the nation, blended with so much that forms its purest

sources of pride. Men are always an inconsistent medley of good and bad.

The captain and myself had visited the _abattoir_ of Montmartre only a

few days previously to this excursion, and we had both been much

gratified with its order and neatness. But an unfortunate pile of hocks,

hoofs, tallow, and nameless fragments of carcasses, had caught my

companion's eye. I found him musing over this _omnium gatherum_, which

he protested was worse than a bread-pudding at Saratoga. By some process

of reasoning that was rather material than philosophical, he came to the

conclusion that the substratum of all the extraordinary compounds he had

met with at the _restaurans_ was derived from this pile, and he swore as

terribly as any of "our army in Flanders," that not another mouthful

would he touch, while he remained in Paris, if the dish put his

knowledge of natural history at fault. He had all along suspected he had

been eating cats and vermin, but his imagination had never pictured to

him such a store of abominations for the _casserole_ as were to be seen

in this pile. In vain I asked him if he did not find the dishes good.

Cats might be good for anything he knew, but he was too old to change

his habits. On the present occasion, he made the situation of the

Abattoir d'Ivry an excuse for not turning up the river by the wall. I do

not think, however, we gained anything in the distance, the _détour_ to

cross the bridge more than equalling the ground we missed.

We came under the wall again at the Barrière de Ville Juif, and followed

it, keeping on the side next the town until we fairly reached the river

once more, beyond Vaugirard. Here we were compelled to walk some

distance to cross the Pont de Jena, and again to make a considerable

circuit through Passy, on account of the gardens, in order to do justice

to our task. About this time the commodore fairly fell astern; and he

discovered that the other boot was too large. I kept talking to him over

my shoulder, and cheering him on, and he felicitated me on frogs

agreeing so well with my constitution. At length we came in at the

Barrière de Clichy, just as the clocks struck three, or in four hours,

to a minute, from the time we had left the same spot. We had neither

stopped, eaten, nor drunk a mouthful. The distance is supposed to be

about eighteen miles, but I can hardly think it is so much, for we went

rather further than if we had closely followed the wall.

Our agility having greatly exceeded my calculations, we were obliged to

walk two miles further, in order to find the carriage. The time expended

in going this distance included, we were just four hours and a half on

our feet. The captain protested that his boots had disgraced him, and

forthwith commanded another pair; a subterfuge that did him no good.

One anecdote connected with the sojourn of this eccentric, but really

excellent-hearted and intelligent man,[22] at Paris is too good not to be

told. He cannot speak a word of pure French; and of all Anglicizing of

the language I have ever heard, his attempts at it are the most droll.

He calls the Tuileries, Tully_rees_; the Jardin des Plantes, the _Garden

dis Plants_; the guillotine, gully_teen_; and the _garçons_ of the

_cafés_, _gassons_. Choleric, with whiskers like a bear, and a voice of

thunder, if anything goes wrong, he swears away, starboard and larboard,

in French and English, in delightful discord.

[Footnote 22: He is since dead.]

He sought me out soon after his arrival, and carried me with him, as an

interpreter, in quest of lodgings. We found a very snug little apartment

of four rooms, that he took. The last occupant was a lady, who, in

letting the rooms, conditioned that Marie, her servant, must be hired

with them, to look after the furniture, and to be in readiness to

receive her at her return from the provinces. A few days after this

arrangement I called, and was surprised, on ringing the bell, to hear

the cry of an infant. After a moment's delay the door was cautiously

opened, and the captain, in his gruffest tone, demanded, "Cur vully

voo?" An exclamation of surprise at seeing me followed; but instead of

opening the door for my admission, he held it for a moment, as if

undecided whether to be "at home" or not. At this critical instant an

infant cried again, and the thing became too ridiculous for further

gravity. We both laughed outright. I entered, and found the captain with

a child three days old tucked under his right arm, or that which had

been concealed by the door. The explanation was very simple, and

infinitely to his credit.

Marie, the _locum tenens_ of the lady who had let the apartment, and the

wife of a coachman who was in the country, was the mother of the infant.

After its birth she presented herself to her new master; told her story;

adding, by means of an interpreter, that if he turned her away, she had

no place in which to lay her head. The kind-hearted fellow made out to

live abroad as well as he could for a day or two--an easy thing enough

in Paris, by the way,--and when I so unexpectedly entered, Marie was

actually cooking the captain's breakfast in the kitchen while he was

nursing the child in the _salon!_

The dialogues between the captain and Marie were to the last degree

amusing. He was quite unconscious of the odd sounds he uttered in

speaking French, but thought he was getting on very well, being rather

minute and particular in his orders; and she felt his kindness to

herself and child so sensibly, that she always fancied she understood

his wishes. I was frequently compelled to interpret between them; first

asking him to explain himself in English, for I could make but little of

his French myself. On one occasion he invited me to breakfast, as we

were to pass the day exploring in company. By way of inducement, he told

me that he had accidentally found some cocoa in the shell, and that he

had been teaching Marie how to cook it "ship-fashion." I would not

promise, as his hour was rather early, and the distance between us so

great; but before eleven I would certainly be with him. I breakfasted at

home therefore, but was punctual to the latter engagement. "I hope you

have breakfasted?" cried the captain, rather fiercely, as I entered. I

satisfied him on this point; and then, after a minute of demure

reflection, he resumed, "You are lucky; for Marie boiled the cocoa, and,

after throwing away the liquor, she buttered and peppered the shells,

and served them for me to eat! I don't see how she made such a mistake,

for I was very particular in my directions, and be d----d to her! I

don't care so much about my own breakfast neither, for that can be had

at the next _café_; but the poor creature has lost hers, which I told

her to cook out of the rest of the cocoa." I had the curiosity to

inquire how he had made out to tell Marie to do all this. "Why, I showed

her the cocoa, to be sure, and then told her to _boily vous-même_."

There was no laughing at this, and so I went with the captain to a

_café_; after which we proceeded in quest of the _gullyteen_, which he

was particularly anxious to see.

My rides often extend to the heights behind Malmaison and St. Cloud,

where there is a fine country, and where some of the best views in the

vicinity of Paris are to be obtained. As the court is at St. Cloud, I

often meet different members of the royal family dashing to or from

town, or perhaps passing from one of their abodes to another. The style

is pretty uniform, for I do not remember to have ever met the king but

once with less than eight horses. The exception was quite early one

morning, when he was going into the country with very little _éclat_,

accompanied by the Dauphine. Even on this occasion he was in a carriage

and six, followed by another with four, and attended by a dozen mounted

men. These royal progresses are truly magnificent; and they serve

greatly to enliven the road, as we live so near the country palace. The

king has been quite lately to a camp formed at St. Omer, and I happened

to meet a portion of his equipages on their return. The carriages I saw

were very neatly built post-chaises, well leathered, and contained what

are here called the "officers of the mouth," alias "cooks and

purveyors." They were all drawn by four horses. This was a great

occasion--furniture being actually sent from the palace of Compiègne for

the king's lodgings, and the court is said to have employed seventy

different vehicles to transport it. I saw about a dozen.

Returning the other night from a dinner-party, given on the banks of the

Seine, a few miles above us, I saw flaring lights gleaming along the

highway, which, at first, caused nearly as much conjecture as some of

the adventures of Don Quixotte. My horse proving a little restive, I

pulled up, placing the cabriolet on one side of the road, for the first

impression was that the cattle employed at some funeral procession had

taken flight and were running away. It proved to be the Dauphine dashing

towards St. Cloud. This was the first time I had ever met any of the

royal equipages at night, and the passage was much the most picturesque

of any I had hitherto seen. Footmen, holding flaming flambeaux, rode in

pairs in front, by the side of the carriage, and in its rear; the

_piqueur_ scouring along the road in advance, like a rocket. By the way,

a lady of the court told me lately that Louis XVIII. had lost some of

his French by the emigration, for he did not know how to pronounce this

word _piqueur_.

On witnessing all this magnificence, the mind is carried back a few

generations, in the inquiry after the progress of luxury, and the usages

of our fathers. Coaches were first used in England in the reign of

Elizabeth. It is clear enough, by the pictures in the Louvre, that in

the time of Louis XIV. the royal carriages were huge, clumsy vehicles,

with at least three seats. Mademoiselle de Montpensier, in her Memoirs,

tells us how often she took her place at the window, in order to admire

the graceful attitudes of M. de Lauzun, who rode near it. There is still

in existence, in the Bibliothèque du Roi, a letter of Henry IV. to

Sully, in which the king explains to the grand master the reason why he

could not come to the arsenal that day; the excuse being that the queen

_was using the carriage!_ To-day his descendant seldom moves at a pace

slower than ten miles the hour, is drawn by eight horses, and is usually

accompanied by one or more empty vehicles of equal magnificence to

receive him, in the event of an accident.

Notwithstanding all this regal splendour, the turn-outs of Paris, as a

whole, are by no means remarkable. The genteelest and the fashionable

carriage is the chariot. I like the proportions of the French carriages

better than those of the English or our own, the first being too heavy,

and the last too light. The French vehicles appear to me to be in this

respect a happy medium. But the finish is by no means equal to that of

the English carriages, nor at all better than that of ours. There are

relatively a large proportion of shabby-genteel equipages at Paris. Even

the vehicles that are seen standing in the court of the Tuileries on a

reception day are not at all superior to the better sort of American

carriages, though the liveries are much more showy.

Few people here own the carriages and horses they use. Even the

strangers, who are obliged to have travelling vehicles rarely use them

in town, the road and the streets requiring very different sorts of

equipages. There are certain job-dealers who furnish all that is

required for a stipulated sum. You select the carriage and horses on

trial and contract at so much a month, or at so much a year. The

coachman usually comes with the equipage, as does the footman sometimes,

though both are paid by the person taking the coach. They will wear your

livery, if you choose, and you can have your arms put on the carriage if

desirable. I pay five hundred francs a month for a carriage and horses,

and forty francs for a coachman. I believe this is the usual price. I

have a right to have a pair of horses always at my command, finding

nothing but the stable, and even this would be unnecessary in Paris. If

we go away from our own stable, I pay five francs a day extra. There is

a very great convenience to strangers, in particular, in this system,

for one can set up and lay down a carriage, without unnecessary trouble

or expense, as it may be wanted. In everything of this nature, we have

no town that has the least character, or the conveniences, of a capital.

The French have little to boast of in the way of horseflesh. Most of the

fine coach and cabriolet cattle of Paris come from Mecklenburgh, though

some are imported from England. It is not common to meet with a very

fine animal of the native breed. In America, land is so plenty and so

cheap, that we keep a much larger proportion of brute force than is kept

here. It is not uncommon with us to meet with those who live by day's

work, using either oxen or horses. The consequence is that many beasts

are raised with little care, and with scarcely any attention to the

breeds. We find many good ones. In spite of bad grooming, little

training, and hard work, I greatly question if even England possesses a

larger proportion of good horses, comparing the population of the two

countries, than America. Our animals are quicker footed, and at

trotting, I suspect, we could beat the world; Christendom, certainly.

The great avenue between the garden of the Tuileries and the Bois de

Boulogne, with the _allées_ of the latter, are the places to meet the

fast-goers of the French capital, and I am strongly of opinion that

there is no such exhibition of speed, in either, as one meets on the

Third Avenue of New York. As for the Avenue de Neuilly, our sulky riders

would vanish like the wind from anything I have seen on it; although one

meets there, occasionally, fine animals from all parts of Europe.

The cattle of the _diligences_, of the post-houses, and even of the

cavalry of France, are solid, hardy and good feeders, but they are

almost entirely without speed or action. The two former are very much

the same, and it is a hard matter to get more than eight miles out of

them without breaking into a gallop, or more than ten, if put under the

whip. Now, a short time previously to leaving home, I went eleven

measured miles, in a public coach, in two minutes less than an hour, the

whip untouched. I sat on the box, by the side of the driver, and know

that this was done under a pull that actually disabled one of his arms,

and that neither of the four animals broke its trot. It is not often our

roads will admit of this, but, had we the roads of England, I make

little doubt we should altogether outdo her in speed. As for the horses

used here in the public conveyances, and for the post routes, they are

commonly compact, clumsy beasts, with less force than their shape would

give reason to suppose. Their manes are long and shaggy, the fetlocks

are rarely trimmed, the shoes are seldom corked, and, when there is a

little coquetry, the tail is braided. In this trim, with a coarse

harness, that is hardly ever cleaned, traces of common rope, and half

the time no blinkers or reins, away they scamper, with their heads in

all directions, like the classical representation of a team in an

ancient car, through thick and thin, working with all their might to do

two posts within an hour, one being the legal measure. These animals

appear to possess a strange _bonhomie_, being obedient, willing and

tractable, although, in the way of harness and reins, they are pretty

much their own masters.

My excursions in the environs have made me acquainted with a great

variety of modes of communication between the capital and its adjacent,

villages. Although Paris is pared down so accurately, and is almost

without suburbs, the population, within a circuit of ten miles in each

direction, is almost equal to that of Paris itself. St. Denis has

several thousands, St. Germain the same, and Versailles is still a town

of considerable importance. All these places, with villages out of

number, keep up daily intercourse with the city, and in addition to the

hundreds of vegetable carts that constantly pass to and fro, there are

many conveyances that are exclusively devoted to passengers. The

cheapest and lowest is called a _coucou_ for no reason that I can see,

unless it be that a man looks very like a fool to have a seat in one of

them. They are large cabriolets, with two and even three seats. The

wheels are enormous, and there is commonly a small horse harnessed by

the side of a larger, in the hills, to drag perhaps eight or nine

people. One is amazed to see the living carrion that is driven about a

place like Paris, in these uncouth vehicles. The river is so exceedingly

crooked, that it is little used by travellers above Rouen.

The internal transportation of France, where the lines of the rivers are

not followed, is carried on, almost exclusively, in enormous carts,

drawn by six and even eight heavy horses, harnessed in a line. The

burthen is often as large as a load of hay, not quite so high, perhaps,

but generally longer, care being had to preserve the balance in such a

manner as to leave no great weight on the shaft horse. These teams are

managed with great dexterity, and I have often stopped and witnessed,

with admiration, the entrance of one of them into a yard, as it passed

from a crowded street probably not more than thirty feet wide. But the

evolutions of the _diligence_, guided as it chiefly is by the whip, and

moving on a trot, are really nice affairs. I came from La Grange, some

time since, in one, and I thought that we should dash everything to

pieces in the streets, and yet nothing was injured. At the close of the

journey, our team of five horses, two on the pole and three on the lead,

wheeled, without breaking its trot, into a street that was barely wide

enough to receive the huge vehicle, and this too without human

direction, the driver being much too drunk to be of any service. These

_diligences_ are uncouth objects to the eye; but, for the inside

passengers, they are much more comfortable, so far as my experience

extends than either the American stage or the English coach.

The necessity of passing the _barrière_ two or three times a day, has

also made me acquainted with the great amount of drunkenness that

prevails in Paris. Wine can be had outside of the walls, for about half

the price which is paid for it within the town, as it escapes the

_octroi_, or city duty. The people resort to these places for

indulgence, and there is quite as much low blackguardism and guzzling

here, as is to be met with in any sea-port I know.

Provisions of all sorts, too, are cheaper without the gates, for the

same reason; and the lower classes resort to them to celebrate their

weddings, and on other eating and drinking occasions. "Ici on fait

festins et noces,"[23] is a common sign, no barrier being without more or

less of these houses. The _guinguettes_ are low gardens, answering to

the English tea-gardens of the humblest class, with a difference in the

drinkables and other fare. The base of Montmartre is crowded with them.

[Footnote 23: Weddings and merry-makings are kept here.]

One sometimes meets with an unpleasant adventure among these exhilarated

gentry; for, though I think a low Frenchman is usually better natured

when a little _grisé_ than when perfectly sober, this is not always the

case. Quite lately I had an affair that might have terminated seriously,

but for our good luck. It is usual to have two sets of reins to the

cabriolets, the horses being very spirited, and the danger from

accidents in streets so narrow and crowded being great. I had dined in

town, and was coming out about nine o'clock. The horse was walking up

the ascent to the Barrière de Clichy, when I observed, by the shadow

cast from a bright moon, that there was a man seated on the cabriolet,

behind. Charles was driving, and I ordered him to tell the man to get

off. Finding words of no effect, Charles gave him a slight tap with his

whip. The fellow instantly sprang forward, seized the horse by the

reins, and attempted to drag him to one side of the road. Failing in

this, he fled up the street. Charles now called out that he had cut the

reins. I seized the other pair and brought the horse up, and, as soon as

he was under command, we pursued our assailant at a gallop. He was soon

out of breath, and we captured him. As I felt very indignant at the

supposed outrage, which might have cost, not us only, but others, their

lives, I gave him in charge to two gendarmes at the gate, with my

address, promising to call at the police office in the morning.

Accordingly, next day I presented myself, and was surprised to find that

the man had been liberated. I had discovered, in the interval, that the

leather had broken, and had not been cut, which materially altered the

_animus_ of the offence, and I had come with an intention to ask for the

release of the culprit, believing it merely a sally of temper, which a

night's imprisonment sufficiently punished; but the man being _charged_

with cutting the rein, I thought the magistrate had greatly forgotten

himself in discharging him before I appeared. Indeed I made no scruple

in telling him so. We had some warm words, and parted. I make no doubt I

was mistaken for an Englishman, and that the old national antipathy was

at work against me.

I was a good deal surprised at the termination of this, my first essay

in French criminal justice. So many eulogiums have been passed on the

police, that I was not prepared to find this indifference to an offence

like that of wantonly cutting the reins of a spirited cabriolet horse,

in the streets of Paris; for such was the charge on which the man stood

committed. I mentioned the affair to a friend, and he said that the

police was good only for political offences, and that the government

rather leaned to the side of the rabble, in order to find support with

them, in the event of any serious movement. This, you will remember, was

the opinion of a Frenchman, and not mine; for I only relate the facts

(one conjecture excepted), and to do justice to all parties, it is

proper to add that my friend is warmly opposed to the present _régime_.

I have uniformly found the gendarmes civil, and even obliging; and I

have seen them show great forbearance on various occasions. As to the

marvellous stories we have heard of the police of Paris, I suspect they

have been gotten up for effect, such things being constantly practised

here. One needs be behind the curtain, in a great many things, to get a

just idea of the true state of the world. A laughable instance has just

occurred, within my knowledge, of a story that has been got up for

effect. The town was quite horrified lately, with an account, in the

journals, of a careless nurse permitting a child to fall into the

_fossé_ of the great bears, in the Jardin des Plantes, and of the bears

eating up the dear little thing, to the smallest fragment, before

succour could be obtained. Happening to be at the garden soon after, in

the company of one connected with the establishment, I inquired into the

circumstances, and was told that the nurses were very careless with the

children, and that the story was published in order that the bears

should not eat up any child hereafter, rather than because they had

eaten up a child heretofore!

Recollections of Europe · 第 53 / 62 题