LETTER XI.

Laws of Intercourse.--Americans in Europe.--Americans and English.

--Visiting in America.--Etiquette of Visits.--Presentations at Foreign

Courts.--Royal Receptions.--American Pride.--Pay of the President.

--American Diplomatist.

To JAMES STEVENSON, ESQUIRE, ALBANY.

I intend this letter to be useful rather than entertaining. Living, as we

Americans do, remote from the rest of the world, and possessing so many

practices peculiar to ourselves, at the same time that we are altogether

wanting in usages that are familiar to most other nations, it should not

be matter of surprise that we commit some mistakes on this side of the

water, in matters of taste and etiquette. A few words simply expressed,

and a few explanations plainly made, may serve to remove some errors, and

perhaps render your own contemplated visit to this part of the world more

agreeable.

There is no essential difference in the leading rules of ordinary

intercourse among the polished of all Christian nations. Though some of

these rules may appear arbitrary, it will be found, on examination, that

they are usually derived from very rational and sufficient motives. They

may vary, in immaterial points, but even these variations arise from

some valid circumstance.

The American towns are growing so rapidly, that they are getting to have

the population of capitals without enjoying their commonest facilities.

The exaggerated tone of our largest towns, for instance, forbids the

exchange of visits by means of servants. It may suit the habits of

provincial life to laugh at this as an absurdity, but it may be taken

pretty safely as a rule, that men and women of as much common sense as

the rest of their fellow-creatures, with the best opportunities of

cultivating all those tastes that are dependant on society, and with no

other possible motive than convenience, would not resort to such a

practice without a suitable inducement. No one who has not lived in a

large town that _does_ possess these facilities, can justly appreciate

their great advantages, or properly understand how much a place like New

York, with its three hundred thousand inhabitants, loses by not adopting

them. We have conventions for all sorts of things in America, some of

which do good and others harm, but I cannot imagine anything that would

contribute more to the comfort of society, than one which should settle

the laws of intercourse on principles better suited to the real

condition of the country than those which now exist. It is not unusual

to read descriptions deriding the forms of Europe, written by travelling

Americans; but I must think they have been the productions of very young

travellers, or, at least, of such as have not had the proper means of

appreciating the usages they ridicule Taking my own experience as a

guide, I have no hesitation in saying, that I know no people among whom

the ordinary social intercourse is as uncomfortable, and as little

likely to stand the test of a rational examination, as our own.

The first rule, all-important for an American to know, is, that the

latest arrival makes the first visit. England is, in some respects, an

exception to this practice, but I believe it prevails in all the rest of

Europe. I do not mean to say that departures are not made from this law,

in particular instances; but they should always be taken as exceptions,

and as pointed compliments. This rule has many conveniences, and I think

it also shows a more delicate attention to sentiment and feeling. While

the points of intrusion and of disagreeable acquaintances are left just

where they would be under our own rule, the stranger is made the judge

of his own wishes. It is, moreover, impossible, in a large town, to know

of every arrival. Many Americans, who come to Europe with every claim to

attention, pass through it nearly unnoticed, from a hesitation about

obtruding themselves on others, under the influence of the opinions in

which they have been educated. This for a long time was my own case, and

it was only when a more familiar acquaintance with the practices of this

part of the world made me acquainted with their advantages that I could

consent freely to put myself forward.

You are not to understand that any stranger arriving in a place like

Paris, or London, has a right to leave cards for whom he pleases. It is

not the custom, except for those who, by birth, or official station, or

a high reputation, may fairly deem themselves privileged, to assume this

liberty, and even then, it is always better to take some preliminary

step to assure one's self that the visit will be acceptable. The law of

salutes is very much the law of visits, in this part of the world. The

ship arriving sends an officer to know if his salute will be returned

gun for gun, and the whole affair, it is true, is conducted in rather a

categorical manner, but the governing principles are the same in both

cases, though more management may be required between two gentlemen than

between two men-of-war.

The Americans in Europe, on account of the country's having abjured all

the old feudal distinctions that still so generally prevail here, labour

under certain disadvantages, that require, on the one hand, much tact

and discretion to overcome, and, on the other, occasionally much

firmness and decision.

The rule I have adopted in my own case, is to defer to every usage, in

matters of etiquette, so far as I have understood them, that belongs to

the country in which I may happen to be. If, as has sometimes happened

(but not in a solitary instance in France), the claims of a stranger

have been overlooked, I have satisfied myself by remembering, that, in

this respect at least, the Americans are the superiors, for that is a

point in which we seldom fail; and if they are remembered, to accept of

just as much attention as shall be offered. In cases, in which those

arbitrary distinctions are set up, that, by the nature of our

institutions cannot, either in similar or in any parallel cases, exist

in America, and the party making the pretension is on neutral ground,

_if the claim be in any manner pressed_, I would say that it became an

American to resist it promptly; neither to go out of his way to meet it,

nor to defer to it when it crosses his path. In really good society

awkward cases of this nature are not very likely to occur; they are,

however, more likely to occur as between our own people and the English,

than between those of any other nation; for the latter, in mixed general

associations, have scarcely yet learned to look upon and treat us as the

possessors of an independent country. It requires perfect

self-possession, great tact, and some nerve, for an American, who is

brought much in contact with the English on the continent of Europe, to

avoid a querulous and ungentlemanlike disposition to raise objections on

these points, and at the same time to maintain the position, and command

the respect, with which he should never consent to dispense. From my own

little experience, I should say we are better treated, and have less to

overlook, in our intercourse with the higher than with the intermediate

classes of the English.

You will have very different accounts of these points, from some of our

travellers. I only give you the results of my own observation, under the

necessary limitations of my own opportunities. Still I must be permitted

to say that too many of our people, in their habitual deference to

England, mistake offensive condescension for civility. Of the two, I

will confess I would rather encounter direct arrogance, than the

assumption of a right to be affable. The first may at least be resisted.

Of all sorts of superiority, that of a condescending quality is the

least palatable.

I believe Washington is the only place in America where it is permitted

to send cards. In every other town, unless accompanied by an invitation,

and even then the card is supposed to be left, it would be viewed as

airs. It is even equivocal to leave a card in person, unless denied.

Nothing can be worse adapted to the wants of American society than this

rigid conformity to facts. Without porters; with dwellings in which the

kitchens and servants' halls are placed just as far from the

street-doors as dimensions of the houses will allow; with large

straggling towns that cover as much ground as the more populous capitals

of Europe, and these towns not properly divided into quarters; with a

society as ambitious of effect, in its way, as any I know; and with

people more than usually occupied with business and the family

cares,--one is expected to comply rigidly with the most formal rules of

village propriety. It is easy to trace these usages to their source,

provincial habits and rustic manners; but towns with three hundred

thousand inhabitants ought to be free from both. Such rigid conditions

cannot well be observed, and a consequence already to be traced is, that

those forms of society which tend to refine it, and to render it more

human and graceful, are neglected from sheer necessity. Carelessness in

the points of association connected with sentiment (and all personal

civilities and attention have this root) grows upon one like

carelessness in dress, until an entire community may get to be as

ungracious in deportment, as it is unattractive in attire.

The etiquette of visits, here, is reduced to a sort of science. A card

is sent by a servant, and returned by a servant. It is polite to return

it, next day, though three, I believe, is the lawful limits, and it is

politer still to return it the day it is received. There is no

affectation about sending the card, as it is not at all unusual to put

E.P. _(en personne)_ on it, by way of expressing a greater degree of

attention, even when the card is sent. When the call is really made in

person, though the visitor does not ask to be admitted, it is also

common to request the porter to say that the party was at the gate. All

these niceties may seem absurd and supererogatory, but depend on it they

have a direct and powerful agency in refining and polishing intercourse,

just as begging a man's pardon, when you tread on his toe, has an effect

to humanize, though the parties know no offence was intended.

Circumstances once rendered it proper that I should leave a card for a

Russian _diplomate_, an act that I took care he should know, indirectly,

I went out of my way to do, as an acknowledgment for the civilities his

countrymen showed to us Americans. My name was left at the gate of his

hotel (it was not in Paris), as I was taking a morning ride. On

returning home, after an absence of an hour, I found his card lying on

my table. Instead, however, of its containing the usual official titles,

it was simply Prince --. I was profoundly emerged in the study of this

new feature in the forms of etiquette, when the friend, who had prepared

the way for the visit, entered. I asked an explanation, and he told me

that I had received a higher compliment than could be conveyed by a

merely official card, this being a proffer of _personal_ attention. "You

will get an invitation to dinner soon;" and, sure enough, one came

before he had quitted the house. Now, here was a delicate and flattering

attention paid, and one that I felt, without trouble to either party;

one that the occupations of the _diplomate_ would scarcely permit him to

pay, except in extraordinary cases, under rules more rigid.

There is no obligation on a stranger to make the first visit, certainly;

but if he do not, he is not to be surprised if no one notices him. It is

a matter of delicacy to obtrude on the privacy of such a person, it

being presumed that he wishes to be retired. We have passed some time in

a village near Paris, which contains six or eight visitable families.

With one of these I had some acquaintance, and we exchanged civilities;

but wishing to be undisturbed, I extended my visit no farther, and I

never saw anything of the rest of my neighbours. They waited for me to

make the advances.

A person in society, here, who is desirous of relieving himself, for a

time, from the labour and care of maintaining the necessary intercourse,

can easily do it, by leaving cards of P.P.O. It might be awkward to

remain long in a place very publicly after such a step, but I ventured

on it once, to extricate myself from engagements that interfered with

more important pursuits, with entire success. I met several

acquaintances in the street, after the cards were sent, and we even

talked together, but I got no more visits or invitations. When ready _to

return to town_, all I had to do was to leave cards again, and things

went on as if nothing had happened. I parried one or two allusions to my

absence, and had no further difficulty. The only awkward part of it was,

that I accepted an invitation to dine _en famille_ with a literary

friend, and one of the guests, of whom there were but three, happened to

be a person whose invitation to dinner I had declined on account of

quitting town! As he was a sensible man, I told him the simple fact, and

we laughed at the _contretems_, and drank oar wine in peace.

The Americans who come abroad frequently complain of a want of

hospitality in the public agents. There is a strong disposition in every

man under institutions like our own, to mistake himself for a part of

the government, in matters with which he has no proper connexion, while

too many totally overlook those interests which it is their duty to

watch. In the first place, the people of the United Slates do not give

salaries to their ministers of sufficient amount to authorize them to

expect that any part of the money should be returned in the way of

personal civilities. Fifty thousand francs a year is the usual sum named

by the French, as the money necessary to maintain a genteel town

establishment, with moderate evening entertainments, and an occasional

dinner. This is three thousand francs more than the salary of the

minister, out of which he is moreover expected to maintain his regular

diplomatic intercourse. It is impossible for any one to do much in the

way of personal civilities, on such an allowance.

There is, moreover, on the part of too many of our people, an aptitude

to betray a jealous sensitiveness on the subject of being presented at

foreign courts. I have known some claim it _as a right_ when it is

yielded to the minister himself as an act of grace. The receptions of a

sovereign are merely his particular mode of receiving visits. No one

will pretend that the President of the United States is obliged to give

levees and dinners, nor is a king any more compelled to receive

strangers, or even his own subjects, unless it suit his policy and his

taste. His palace is his house, and he is the master of it, the same as

any other man is master of his own abode. It is true, the public expects

something of him, and his allowance is probably regulated by this

expectation, but the interference does not go so far as to point out his

company. Some kings pass years without holding a court at all; others

receive every week. The public obligation to open his door, is no more

than an obligation of expediency, of which he, and he only, can be the

judge. This being the rule, not only propriety, but fair dealing

requires that all who frequent a court should comply with the conditions

that are understood to be implied in the permission. While there exists

an exaggerated opinion, on the part of some of our people, on the

subject of the fastidiousness of princes, as respects their associates,

there exists among others very confused notions on the other side of the

question. A monarch usually cares very little about the quarterings and

the nobility of the person he receives, but he always wishes his court

to be frequented by people of education, accomplishments, and breeding.

In Europe these qualities are confined to _castes_, and, beyond a

question, as a general practice, every king would not only prefer, but,

were there a necessity for it, he would command that his doors should be

closed against all others, unless they came in a character different

from that of courtiers. This object has, in effect, been obtained, by

establishing a rule, that no one who has not been presented at his own

court can claim to be presented at any foreign European court; thus

leaving each sovereign to see that no one of his own subjects shall

travel with this privilege who would be likely to prove an unpleasant

guest to any other prince. But we have neither any prince nor any court,

and the minister is left to decide for himself who is, and who is not,

proper to be presented.

Let us suppose a case. A master and his servant make a simultaneous

request to be presented to the King of France. Both are American

citizens, and if _either_ has any political claim, beyond mere courtesy,

to have his request attended to, _both_ have. The minister is left to

decide for himself. He cannot so far abuse the courtesy that permits him

to present his countrymen at all, as to present the domestic, and of

course he declines doing it. In this case, perhaps, public opinion would

sustain him, as, unluckily, the party of the domestics is small in

America, the duties usually falling to the share of foreigners and

blacks. But the principle may be carried upwards, until a point is

attained where a minister might find it difficult to decide between that

which his own sense of propriety should dictate, and that which others

might be disposed to claim. All other ministers get rid of their

responsibility by the acts of their own courts; but the minister of the

republic is left exposed to the calumny, abuse, and misrepresentation of

any disappointed individual, should he determine to do what is strictly

right.

Under these circumstances, it appears to me that there are but two

courses left for any agent of our government to pursue: either to take

_official_ rank as his only guide, or to decline presenting any one. It

is not his duty to act as a master of ceremonies; every court has a

regular officer for this purpose, and any one who has been presented

himself, is permitted on proper representations to present others. The

trifling disadvantage will be amply compensated for, by the great and

peculiar benefits that arise from our peculiar form of government.

These things will quite likely strike you as of little moment. They are,

however, of more concern than one living in the simple society of

America may at first suppose. The etiquette of visiting has of course an

influence on the entire associations of a traveller, and may not be

overlooked, while the single fact that one people were practically

excluded from the European courts, would have the same effect on their

other enjoyments here, that it has to exclude an individual from the

most select circles of any particular town. Ordinary life is altogether

coloured by things that, in themselves, may appear trifling, but which

can no more be neglected with impunity, than one can neglect the varying

fashions in dress.

The Americans are not a shoving people, like their cousins the English.

Their fault in this particular lies in a morbid pride, with a

stubbornness that is the result of a limited experience, and which is

too apt to induce them to set up their own provincial notions, as the

standard, and to throw them backward into the intrenchments, of

self-esteem. This feeling is peculiarly fostered by the institutions. It

is easy to err in this manner; and it is precisely the failing of the

countryman, everywhere, when he first visits town. It is, in fact, the

fault of ignorance of the world. By referring to what I have just told

you, it will be seen that these are the very propensities which will be

the most likely to make one uncomfortable in Europe, where so much of

the initiative of intercourse is thrown upon the shoulders of the

stranger.

I cannot conclude this letter without touching on another point, that

suggests itself at the moment. It is the fashion to decry the

niggardliness of the American government on the subject of money, as

compared with those of this hemisphere. Nothing can be more unjust. Our

working men are paid better than even those of England, with the

exception of a few who have high dignities to support. I do not see the

least necessity for giving the President a dollar more than he gets

to-day, since all he wants is enough to entertain handsomely, and to

shield him from loss. Under our system, we never can have an _exclusive_

court, nor is it desirable, for in this age a court is neither a school

of manners, nor a school of anything else that is estimable. These facts

are sufficiently proved by England, a country whose mental cultivation

and manners never stood as high as they do to-day, and yet it has

virtually been without a court for an entire generation. A court may

certainly foster taste and elegance; but they may be quite as well

fostered by other, and less exclusive, means. But while the President

may receive enough, the heads of departments, at home, and the foreign

ministers of the country, are not more than half paid, _particularly the

latter_. The present minister is childless, his establishment and his

manner of living are both handsome, but not a bit more so than those of

a thousand others who inhabit this vast capital, and his intercourse

with his colleagues is not greater than is necessary to the interests of

his country. Now, I know from his own statement, that his expenses,

without a family, exceed by one hundred per cent, his salary. With a

personal income of eighty to a hundred thousand francs a years, he can

bear this drain on his private fortune, but he is almost the only

minister we ever had here who could.

The actual position of our diplomatic agents in Europe is little

understood at home. There are but two or three modes of maintaining the

rights of a nation, to say nothing of procuring those concessions from

others which enter into the commercial relations of states, and in some

degree affect their interests. The best method, certainly, as respects

the two first, is to manifest a determination to defend them by an

appeal to force; but so many conflicting interests stand in the way of

such a policy, that it is exceedingly difficult, wisest and safest in

the end though it be, to carry it out properly. At any rate, such a

course has never yet been in the power of the American government,

whatever it may be able to do hereafter, with its increasing numbers and

growing wealth. But even strength is not always sufficient to obtain

voluntary and friendly concessions, for principle must, in some degree,

be respected by the most potent people, or they will be put to the ban

of the world. Long diplomatic letters, although they may answer the

purposes of ministerial _exposés_, and read well enough in the columns

of a journal, do very little, in fact, as make-weights in negotiations.

I have been told here, _sub rosâ_, and I believe it that some of our

laboured efforts, in this way to obtain redress in the protracted

negotiation for indemnity, have actually lain months in the _bureaux_,

unread by those who alone have power to settle the question. Some

_commis_ perhaps may have cursorily related their contents to his

superior, but the superior himself is usually too much occupied in

procuring and maintaining ministerial majorities, or in looking after

the monopolizing concerns of European politics, to wade through folios

of elaborate argument in manuscript. The public ought to understand,

that the point presents itself to him in the security of his master's

capital, and with little or no apprehension of its coming to an appeal

to arms, very differently from what it occasionally presents itself in

the pages of a President's message, or in a debate in Congress. He has

so many demands on his time, that it is even difficult to have a working

interview with him at all; and when one is obtained, it is not usual to

do more than to go over the preliminaries. The details are necessarily

referred to subordinates.

Now, in such a state of things, any one accustomed to the world, can

readily understand how much may be effected by the kind feelings that

are engendered by daily, social intercourse. A few words can be

whispered in the ears of a minister, in the corner of a drawing-room,

that would never reach him in his bureau. Then _all_ the ministers are

met in society, while the _diplomate_, properly speaking, can claim

officially to see but _one_. In short, in saving, out of an overflowing

treasury, a few thousand dollars a year, we trifle with our own

interests, frequently embarrass our agents, and in some degree discredit

the country. I am not one of your _sensitives_ on the subject of parade

and appearance, nor a member of the embroidery school; still I would

substitute for the irrational frippery of the European customs, a

liberal hospitality, and a real elegance, that should speak well for the

hearts and tastes of the nation. The salary of the minister at Paris, I

know it, by the experience of a housekeeper, ought to be increased by at

least one half, and it would tell better for the interests of the

country were it doubled. Even in this case, however, I do not conceive

that an American would be justified in mistaking the house of an envoy

for a national inn; but that the proper light to view his allowances

would be to consider them as made, first, as an act of justice to the

functionary himself; next, as a measure of expediency, as connected with

the important interests of the country. As it is, I am certain that no

one but a man of fortune can accept a foreign appointment, without

committing injustice to his heirs; and I believe few do accept them

without sincerely regretting the step, in after years.

Recollections of Europe · 第 46 / 62 题