LETTER IX.

Royal Dinner.--Magnificence and Comfort.--Salle de Diane.--Prince de

Condé.--Duke of Orleans.--The Dinner-table.--The Dauphin.--Sires de

Coucy.--The Dauphine.--Ancient Usages--M. de Talleyrand.--Charles X.

--Panoramic Procession.--Droll Effect.--The Dinner.--M. de Talleyrand's

Office.--The Duchesse de Berri.--The Catastrophe.--An Aristocratic

Quarrel.

To MRS. SINGLETON W. BEALL, GREEN BAY.

We have lately witnessed a ceremony that may have some interest for one

who, like yourself, dwells in the retirement of a remote frontier post.

It is etiquette for the kings of France to dine in public twice in the

year, viz. the 1st of January, and the day that is set apart for the

fête of the king. Having some idle curiosity to be present on one of

these occasions, I wrote the usual note to the lord in, waiting, or, as

he is called here, "le premier gentilhomme de la chambre du roi, de

service," and we got the customary answer, enclosing us tickets of

admission. There are two sorts of permissions granted on these

occasions: by one you are allowed to remain in the room during the

dinner; and by the other, you are obliged to walk slowly through the

salle, in at one side and out at the other, without, however, being

suffered to pause even for a moment. Ours were of the former

description.

The King of France having the laudable custom of being punctual, and as

every one dines in Paris at six, that best of all hours for a town life,

we were obliged to order our own dinner an hour earlier than common, for

looking at others eating on an empty stomach is, of all amusements, the

least satisfactory. Having taken this wise precaution, we drove to the

chateau at half after five, it not being seemly to enter the room after

the king, and, as we discovered, for females impossible.

Magnificence and comfort seldom have much in common. We were struck with

this truth on entering the palace of the king of France. The room into

which we were first admitted was filled with tall, lounging foot

soldiers, richly attired, but who lolled about the place with their caps

on, and with a barrack-like air that seemed to us singularly in contrast

with the prompt and respectful civility with which one is received in

the ante-chamber of a private hotel. It is true that we had nothing to

do with the soldiers and lackeys who thronged the place; but if their

presence was intended to impress visitors with the importance of their

master, I think a more private entrance would have been most likely to

produce that effect; for I confess, that it appeared to me has a mark of

poverty, that troops being necessary to the state and security of the

monarch, he was obliged to keep them in the vestibule by which his

guests entered. But this is royal state. Formerly, the executioner was

present; and in the semi-barbarous courts of the East, such is the fact

even now. The soldiers were a party of the Hundred Swiss; men chosen for

their great stature, and remarkable for the perfection of their musket.

Two of them were posted as sentinels at the foot of the great staircase

by which we ascended, and we passed several more on the landings.

We were soon in the Salle des Gardes, or the room which the _gardes du

corps_ on service occupied. Two of these _quasi_ soldiers were also

acting as sentinels here, while others lounged about the room. Their

apartment communicated with the Salle de Diane, the hall or gallery

prepared for the entertainment. I had no other means but the eye of

judging of the dimensions of this room; but its length considerably

exceeds a hundred feet, and its breadth is probably forty, or more. It

is of the proper height, and the ceiling is painted in imitation of

those of the celebrated Farnese Palace at Rome.

We found this noble room divided, by a low railing, into three

compartments. The centre, an area of some thirty feet by forty,

contained the table, and was otherwise prepared for the reception of the

court. On one side of it were raised benches for the ladies, who were

allowed to be seated; and, on the other, a vacant space for the

gentlemen, who stood. All these, you will understand, were considered

merely as spectators, not being supposed to be in the presence of the

king. The mere spectators were dressed as usual, or in common evening

dress, and not all the women even in that; while those within the

railings, being deemed to be in the royal presence, were in high court

dresses. Thus I stood for an hour within five-and-twenty feet of the

king, and part of the time much nearer, while, by a fiction of

etiquette, I was not understood to be there at all. I was a good while

within ten feet of the Duchesse de Berri, while, by convention, I was

nowhere. There was abundance of room in our area, and every facility of

moving about, many coming and going, as they saw fit. Behind us, but at

a little distance, were other rows of raised seats, filled with the best

instrumental musicians of Paris. Along the wall, facing the table, was a

narrow raised platform, wide enough to allow of two or three to walk

abreast, separated from the rest of the room by a railing, and extending

from a door at one end of the gallery, to a door at the other. This was

the place designed for the passage of the public during the dinner; no

one, however, being admitted, even here, without a ticket.

A gentleman of the court led your aunt to the seats reserved for the

female spectators, which were also without the railing, and I took my

post among the men. Although the court of the Tuileries was, when we

entered the palace, filled with a throng of those who were waiting to

pass through the Gallery of Diana, to my surprise, the number of persons

who were to remain in the room was very small. I account for the

circumstance, by supposing, that it is not etiquette for any who have

been presented to attend, unless they are among the court; and, as some

reserve was necessary in issuing these tickets, the number was

necessarily limited. I do not think there were fifty men on our side,

which might have held several hundred; and the seats of the ladies were

not half filled. Boxes were fitted up in the enormous windows, which

closed and curtained, a family of fine children occupying that nearest

to me. Some one said they were the princes of the house of Orleans; for

none of the members of the royal family have seats at the _grands

couverts_, as these dinners are called, unless they belong to the

reigning branch. There is but one Bourbon prince more remote from the

crown[11] than the Duc d'Orléans, and this is the Prince de Condé, or, as

he is more familiarly termed here, the Duc de Bourbon, the father of the

unfortunate Duc d'Enghien. So broad are the distinctions made between

the sovereign and the other members of his family in these governments,

that it was the duty of the Prince de Condé to appear to-day behind the

king's chair, as the highest dignitary of his household; though it was

understood that he was excused, on account of his age and infirmities.

These broad distinctions, you will readily imagine, however, are only

maintained on solemn and great state occasions; for, in their ordinary

intercourse, kings nowadays dispense with most of the ancient

formalities of their rank. It would have been curious, however, to see

one descendant of St. Louis standing behind the chair of another, as a

servitor; and more especially, to see the Prince de Condé standing

behind the chair of Charles X.; for, when Comte d'Artois and Duc de

Bourbon, some fifty years since, they actually fought a duel on account

of some slight neglect of the wife of the latter by the former.

[Footnote 11: 1827]

The crown of France, as you know, passes only in the male line. The Duke

of Orleans is descended from Louis XIII., and the Prince de Condé from

Louis IX. In the male line, the Duke of Orleans is only the fourth

cousin, once removed, of the king, and the Prince de Condé the eighth or

ninth. The latter would be even much more remotely related to the crown,

but for the accession of his own branch of the family in the person of

Henry IV. who was a near cousin of his ancestor. Thus you perceive,

while royalty is always held in reverence--for any member of the family

may possibly become the king--still there are broad distinctions made

between the near and the more distant branches of the line. The Duke of

Orleans fills that equivocal position in the family, which is rather

common in the history of this species of government. He is a liberal,

and is regarded with distrust by the reigning branch, and with hope by

that portion of the people who think seriously of the actual state of

the country. A saying of M. de Talleyrand, however, is circulated at his

expense, which, if true, would go to show that this wary prince is not

disposed to risk his immense fortune in a crusade for liberty. "Ce n'est

pas assez d'être quelqu'un--il faut être quelque chose," are the words

attributed to the witty and wily politician; but, usually, men have

neither half the wit nor half the cunning that popular accounts ascribe

to them, when it becomes the fashion to record their acts and sayings. I

believe the Duke of Orleans holds no situation about the court, although

the king has given him the title of _Royal_ Highness, his birth

entitling him to be styled no more than _Serene_ Highness. This act of

grace is much spoken of by the Bourbonists, who consider it a favour

that for ever secures the loyalty and gratitude of the Duke. The

Duchess, being the daughter of a king, had this rank from her birth.

The orchestra was playing when we entered the Gallery of Diana, and

throughout the whole evening it gave us, from time to time, such music

as can only be found in a few of the great capitals of Europe.

The covers were laid, and every preparation was made within the railing

for the reception of the _convives_. The table was in the shape of a

young moon, with the horns towards the spectators, or from the wall. It

was of some length, and as there were but four covers, the guests were

obliged to be seated several feet from each other. In the centre was an

armchair, covered with crimson velvet, and ornamented with a crown; this

was for the king. A chair without arms, on his right, was intended for

the Dauphin; another on his left, for the Dauphine; and the fourth,

which was still further on the right of the Dauphin, was intended for

Madame, as she is called, or the Duchess of Berri. These are the old and

favourite appellations of the monarchy, and, absurd as some of them are,

they excite reverence and respect from their antiquity. Your Wolverines,

and Suckers, and Buckeyes, and Hooziers would look amazed to hear an

executive styled the White Fish of Michigan, or the Sturgeon of

Wisconsin; and yet there is nothing more absurd in it, in the abstract,

than the titles that were formerly given in Europe, some of which have

descended to our times. The name of the country, as well as the title of

the sovereign, in the case of Dauphiné, was derived from the same

source. Thus, in homely English, the Dolphin of Dolphinstown, renders

"le Dauphin de Dauphiné" perfectly well. The last independent Dauphin,

in bequeathing his states to the King of France of the day, (the

unfortunate John, the prisoner of the Black Prince,) made a condition

that the heir apparent of the kingdom should always be known by his own

title, and consequently, ever since, the appellation has been continued.

You will understand, that none but an _heir-apparent_ is called the

Dauphin, and not an _heir-presumptive_. Thus, should the present Dauphin

and the Duc de Bordeaux die, the Duke of Orleans, according to a treaty

of the time of Louis XIV., though not according to the ancient laws of

the monarchy, would become _heir-presumptive_; but he could never be the

Dauphin, since, should the king marry again, and have another son, his

rights would be superseded. None but the _heir-apparent_, or the

_inevitable_ heir, bears this title. There were formerly _Bears_ in

Belgium, who were of the rank of Counts. These appellations were derived

from the arms, the Dauphin now bearing dolphins with the lilies of

France. The Boar of Ardennes got his _sobriquet_ from bearing the head

of a wild boar in his arms. There were formerly many titles in France

that are now extinct, such as Captal, Vidame, and Castellan, all of

which were general, I believe, and referred to official duties. There

was, however, formerly, a singular proof of how even simplicity can

exalt a man, when the fashion runs into the opposite extremes. In the

thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, there existed in France powerful

noblemen, the owners and lords of the castle and lands of Coucy or

Couci, who were content to bear the appellation of Sire, a word from

which our own "Sir" is derived, and which means, like Sir, the simplest

term of courtesy that could be used. These Sires de Coucy were so

powerful as to make royal alliances; they waged war with their

sovereign, and maintained a state nearly royal. Their pride lay in their

antiquity, independence, and power; and they showed their contempt for

titles by their device, which is said to have been derived from the

answer of one of the family to the sovereign, who, struck with the

splendour of his appearance and the number of his attendants, had

demanded, "What king has come to my court?" This motto, which is still

to be seen on the ancient monuments of the family, reads:--

"Je ne suis roi, ne prince, ne duc, ne comte aussi;

Je suis le Sire de Coucy."[12]

[Footnote 12: "I am neither king, nor prince, nor duke, nor even a count;

I am M. de Coucy."]

This greatly beats Coke of Holkham, of whom it is said that George IV.,

who had been a liberal in his youth, and the friend of the great Norfolk

commoner, vexed by his bringing up so many liberal addresses,

threatened--"If Coke comes to me with any more of his Whig petitions,

_I'll Knight him_."

I have often thought that this simplicity of the Sires de Coucy

furnishes an excellent example for our own ministers and citizens when

abroad. Instead of attempting to imitate the gorgeous attire of their

colleagues, whose magnificence, for the want of stars and similar

conventional decorations, they can never equal, they should go to court

as they go to the President's House, in the simple attire of American

gentlemen. If any prince should inquire,--"Who is this that approaches

me, clad so simply that I may mistake him for a butler, or a groom of

the chambers?" let him answer, "Je ne suis roi, ne prince, ne duc, ne

comte aussi--I am the minister of the United States of Ameri_key_," and

leave the rest to the millions at home. My life for it, the question

would not be asked twice. Indeed, no man who is truly fit to represent

the republic would ever have any concern about the matter. But all this

time the dinner of the King of France is getting cold.

We might have been in the gallery fifteen minutes, when there was a stir

at a door on the side where the females were seated, and a _huissier_

cried out--"Madame la Dauphine!" and, sure enough, the Dauphine

appeared, followed by two _dames d'honneur_. She walked quite through

the gallery, across the area reserved for the court, and passed out at

the little gate in the railing which communicated with our side of the

room, leaving the place by the same door at which we had entered. She

was in high court dress, with diamonds and lappets, and was proceeding

from her own apartments, in the other wing of the palace, to those of

the king. As she went within six feet of me, I observed her hard and yet

saddened countenance with interest; for she has the reputation of

dwelling on her early fortunes, and of constantly anticipating evil. Of

course she was saluted by all in passing, but she hardly raised her eyes

from the floor; though, favoured by my position, I got a slight,

melancholy smile, in return for my own bow.

The Dauphine had scarcely disappeared, when her Royal Highness, Madame,

was announced, and the Duchess of Berri went through in a similar

manner. Her air was altogether less constrained, and she had smiles and

inclinations for all she passed. She is a slight, delicate, little

woman, with large blue eyes, a fair complexion, and light hair. She

struck me as being less a Bourbon than an Austrian, and, though wanting

in _embonpoint_, she would be quite pretty but for a cast in one of her

eyes.

A minute or two later, we had Monseigneur le Dauphin, who passed through

the gallery in the same manner as his wife and sister-in-law. He had

been reviewing some troops, and was in the uniform of a colonel of the

guards; booted to the knees, and carrying a military hat in his hand. He

is not of commanding presence, though I think he has the countenance of

an amiable man, and his face is decidedly Bourbon. We were indebted to

the same lantern like construction of the palace, for this preliminary

glimpse at so many of the actors in the coming scene.

After the passage of the Dauphin, a few courtiers and superior officers

of the household began to appear within the railed space. Among them

were five or six duchesses. Women of this rank have the privilege of

being seated in the presence of the king on state occasions, and

_tabourets_ were provided for them accordingly. A _tabouret_ is a

stuffed stool, nearly of the form of the ancient cerulean chair, without

its back, for a back would make it a chair at once, and, by the

etiquette of courts, these are reserved for the blood-royal,

ambassadors, etc. As none but duchesses could be seated at the _grand

couvert_, you may be certain none below that rank appeared. There might

have been a dozen present. They were all in high court dresses. One, of

great personal charms and quite young, was seated near me, and my

neighbour, an old _abbé_, carried away by enthusiasm, suddenly exclaimed

to me--"Quelle belle fortune, monsieur, d'être jeune, jolie, et

duchesse!" I dare say the lady had the same opinion of the matter.

Baron Louis, not the financier, but the king's physician, arrived. It

was his duty to stand behind the king's chair, like Sancho's tormentor,

and see that he did not over-eat himself. The ancient usages were very

tender of the royal person. If he travelled, he had a spare litter, or a

spare coach, to receive him, in the event of accident,--a practice that

is continued to this day; if he ate, there was one to taste his food,

lest he might be poisoned; and when he lay down to sleep, armed

sentinels watched at the door of his chamber. Most of these usages are

still continued, in some form or other, and the ceremonies which are

observed at these public dinners are mere memorials of the olden time.

I was told the following anecdote by Mad. de ----, who was intimate with

Louis XVIII. One day, in taking an airing, the king was thirsty, and

sent a footman to a cottage for water. The peasants appeared with some

grapes, which they offered, as the homage of their condition. The king

took them and ate them, notwithstanding the remonstrances of his

attendants. This little incident was spoken of at court, where all the

monarch does and says becomes matter of interest, and the next time Mad.

de ---- was admitted, she joined her remonstrances to those of the other

courtiers. "We no longer live in an age when kings need dread

assassins," said Louis, smiling. A month passed, and Mad. de ---- was

again admitted. She was received with a melancholy shake of the head,

and with tears. The Duc de Berri had been killed in the interval!

A few gentlemen, who did not strictly belong to the court, appeared

among the duchesses, but, at the most, there were but six or eight. One

of them, however, was the gayest looking personage I ever saw in the

station of a gentleman, being nothing but lace and embroidery, even to

the seams of his coat; a sort of genteel harlequin. The _abbé_, who

seemed to understand himself, said he was a Spanish grandee.

I was near the little gate, when an old man, in a strictly court dress,

but plain and matter-of-fact in air, made an application for admittance.

In giving way for him to pass, my attention was drawn to his appearance.

The long white hair that hung down his face, the _cordon bleu_, the lame

foot, the imperturbable countenance, and the _unearthly aspect_, made me

suspect the truth. On inquiring, I was right. It was M. de Talleyrand!

He came as grand chamberlain, to officiate at the dinner of his master.

Everything, in a court, goes by clock-work. Your little great may be out

of time, and affect a want of punctuality, but a rigid attention to

appointments is indispensable to those who are really in high

situations. A failure in this respect would produce the same impression

on the affairs of men, that a delay in the rising of the sun would

produce on the day. The appearance of the different personages named,

all so near each other, was the certain sign that one greater than all

could not be far behind. They were the dawn of the royal presence.

Accordingly, the door which communicated with the apartments of the

king, and the only one within the railed space, opened with the

announcement of "Le service du Roi," when a procession of footmen of the

palace appeared, bearing the dishes of the first course. All the

vessels, whether already on the table, or those in their hands, were of

gold, richly wrought, or, at least, silver gilt, I had no means of

knowing which; most probably they were of the former metal. The dishes

were taken from the footmen by pages, of honour in scarlet dresses, and

by them placed in order on the table. The first course was no sooner

ready, than we heard the welcome announcement of "Le Roi." The family

immediately made their appearance, at the same door by which the service

had entered. They were followed by a proper number of lords and ladies

in waiting. Every one arose, as a matter of course, even to the "jeunes,

jolies, et duchesses;" and the music, as became it, gave us a royal

crash. The huissier, in announcing the king, spoke in a modest voice,

and less loud, I observed, than in announcing the Dauphin and the

ladies. It was, however, a different person; and it is probable one was

a common huissier, and the other a gentleman acting in that character.

Charles X. is tall, without being of a too heavy frame, flexible of

movement, and decidedly graceful. By remembering that he is king, and

the lineal chief of the ancient and powerful family of the Bourbons, by

deferring properly to history and the illusions of the past, and by

feeling _tant soit peu_ more respect for those of the present day than

is strictly philosophical, or perhaps wise, it is certainly possible to

fancy that he has a good deal of that peculiar port and majesty that the

poetry of feeling is so apt to impute to sovereigns. I know not whether

it is the fault of a cynical temperament, or of republican prejudices,

but I can see no more, about him than the easy grace of an old

gentleman, accustomed all his life to be a principal personage among the

principal personages of the earth. This you may think was quite

sufficient,--but it aid not altogether satisfy the _exigence_ of my

unpoetical ideas. His countenance betrayed, a species of vacant

_bonhommie_, rather than of thought or dignity of mind; and while he

possessed, in a singular degree, the mere physical machinery of his

rank, he was wanting in the majesty of character and expression, without

which no man can act well the representation of royalty. Even a little

more severity of aspect would have better suited the part, and rendered

_le grand couvert encore plus grand_.

The king seated himself, after receiving the salutations of the

courtiers within the railing, taking no notice however, of those who, by

a fiction of etiquette, were not supposed to be in his presence. The

rest of the family occupied their respective places in the order I have

named, and the eating and drinking began, from the score. The different

courses were taken off and served by footmen and pages in the manner

already described, which, after all, by substituting servants out of

livery for pages, is very much the way great dinners are served, in

great houses, all over Europe.

As soon as the king was seated, the north door of the gallery, or that

on the side opposite to the place where I had taken post, was opened,

and the public was admitted, passing slowly through the room without

stopping. A droller _mélange_ could not be imagined than presented

itself in the panoramic procession; and long before the _grand couvert_

was over, I thought it much the most amusing part of the scene. Very

respectable persons, gentlemen certainly, and I believe in a few

instances ladies, came in this way, to catch a glimpse of the spectacle.

I saw several men that I knew, and the women with them could have been

no other than their friends. To these must be added, _cochers de

fiacres_ in their glazed hats, _bonnes_ in their high Norman caps,

peasants, soldiers in their shakos, _épiciers_ and _garçons_ without

number. The constant passage, for it lasted without intermission for an

hour and a half, of so many queer faces, reminded me strongly of one of

those mechanical panoramas, that bring towns, streets, and armies,

before the spectator. One of the droll effects of this scene was

produced by the faces, all of which turned, like sunflowers, towards the

light of royalty, as the bodies moved steadily on. Thus, on entering,

the eyes were a little inclined to the right; as they got nearer to the

meridian, they became gradually bent more aside; when opposite the

table, every face, was _full_; and, in retiring, all were bent backwards

over their owners' shoulders, constantly offering a dense crowd of

faces, looking towards a common centre, while the bodies were coming on,

or moving slowly off the stage. This, you will see, resembled in some

measure the revolutions of the moon around our orb, matter and a king

possessing the same beneficent attraction. I make no doubt, these good

people thought we presented a curious spectacle; but I am persuaded they

presented one that was infinitely more so.

I had seen in America, in divers places, an Englishman, a colonel in the

army. We had never been introduced, but had sat opposite to each other

at _tables d'hôtes_, jostled each other in the President's House, met in

steam-boats, in the streets, and in many other places, until it was

evident our faces were perfectly familiar to both parties; and yet we

never nodded, spoke, or gave any other sign of recognition, than by

certain knowing expressions of the eyes. In Europe, the colonel

reappeared. We met in London, in Paris, in the public walks, in the

sight-seeing places of resort, until we evidently began to think

ourselves a couple of Monsieur Tonsons. To-night, as I was standing near

the public platform, whose face should appear in the halo of

countenances but that of my colonel! The poor fellow had a wooden leg,

and he was obliged to stump on in his orbit as well as he could, while I

kept my eye on him, determined to catch a look of recognition if

possible. When he got so far forward as to bring me in his line of

sight, our eyes met, and he smiled involuntarily. Then he took a

deliberate survey of my comfortable position, and he disappeared in the

horizon, with some such expression on his features as must have belonged

to Commodore Trunnion, when he called out to Hatchway, while the hunter

was leaping over the lieutenant, "Oh! d--n you; you are well anchored!"

I do not think the dinner, in a culinary point of view, was anything

extraordinary. The king ate and drank but little, for, unlike his two

brothers and predecessors, he is said to be abstemious. The Daupin

played a better knife and fork; but on the whole, the execution was by

no means great for Frenchmen. The guests sat so far apart, and the music

made so much noise, that conversation was nearly out of the question;

though the King and the Dauphin exchanged a few words in the course of

the evening. Each of the gentlemen, also, spoke once or twice to his

female neighbour, and that was pretty much the amount of the discourse.

The whole party appeared greatly relieved by having something to do

during the desert, in admiring the service, which was of the beautiful

Sèvres china. They all took up the plates, and examined them

attentively; and really I was glad they had so rational an amusement to

relieve their _ennui_.

Once, early in the entertainment, M. de Talleyrand approached the king,

and showed him the bill of fare! It was an odd spectacle to see this old

_diplomate_ descending to the pantomime of royalty, and acting the part

of a _maître d'hôtel_. Had the duty fallen on Cambacères, one would

understand it, and fancy that it might be well done. The king smiled on

him graciously, and, I presume, gave him leave to retire; for soon after

this act of loyal servitude, the prince disappeared. As for M. Louis, he

treated Charles better than his brother treated Sancho; for I did not

observe the slightest interference, on his part, during the whole

entertainment; though one of those near me said he had tasted a dish or

two by way of ceremony,--an act of precaution that I did not myself

observe. I asked my neighbour, the _abbé_, what he thought of M. de

Talleyrand. After looking up in my face distrustfully, he

whispered:--"Mais, monsieur, c'est un chat qui tombe toujours sur ses

pieds;" a remark that was literally true tonight, for, the old man was

kept on his feet longer than could have been agreeable to the owner of

two such gouty legs.

The Duchesse de Berri, who sat quite near the place where I stood, was

busy a good deal of the time _à lorgner_ the public through her

eye-glass. This she did with very little diffidence of manner, and quite

as coolly as an English duchess would have stared at a late intimate

whom she was disposed to cut. It certainly was neither a graceful, nor a

feminine, nor a princely occupation. The Dauphine played the Bourbon

better; though, when she turned her saddened, not to say _cruel_ eyes,

on the public, it was with an expression that almost amounted to

reproach. I did not see her smile once during the whole time she was at

table; and yet _I_ thought there were many things to smile at.

At length the finger-bowls appeared, and I was not sorry to see them.

Contrary to what is commonly practised in very great houses, the pages

placed them on the table, just as Henri puts them before us democrats

every day. I ought to have said, that the service was made altogether in

front, or at the unoccupied side of the table, nothing but the bill of

fare, in the hands of M. de Talleyrand, appearing in the rear. As soon as

this part of the dinner was over, the king arose, and the whole party

withdrew by the door on the further side of the galery. In passing the

_gradins_ of the ladies, he stopped to says a few kind words to an old

woman who was seated there, muffled in a cloak, and the light of royalty

vanished.

The catastrophe is to come. The instant the king's back was turned, the

gallery became a scene of confusion. The musicians ceased playing, and

began to chatter; the pages dashed about to remove the service, and

everybody was in motion. Observing that your ---- was standing undecided

what to do, I walked into the railed area, brushed past the gorgeous

state table, and gave her my arm. She laughed, and said it had all been

very magnificent and amusing, but that some one had stolen her shawl! A

few years before, I had purchased for her a merino shawl, of singular

fineness, simplicity, and beauty. It was now old, and she had worn it on

this occasion, because she distrusted the dirt of a palace; and laying

it carelessly by her side, in the course of the evening she had found in

its place a very common thing of the same colour. The thief was deceived

by its appearance your ---- being dressed for an evening party, and had

probably mistaken it for a cashmere. So much for the company one meets

at court! Too much importance, however, must not be attached to this

little _contretems_, as people of condition are apt to procure tickets

for such places, and to give them to their _femmes de chambre_.

Probably, half the women present, the "jeunes et jolies" excepted, were

of this class. But mentioning this affair to the old Princesse de ----,

she edified me by an account of the manner in which Madame la Comtesse

de ---- had actually appropriated to the service of her own pretty person

the _cachemire_ of Madame la Baronne de ----, in the royal presence; and

how there was a famous quarrel, _à l'outrance_, about it; so I suspend

my opinions as to the quality of the thief.

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